A bisht is a traditional Arabian long cloak men wear over their thobes. This cloak is usually made of wool and ranges in color from white, beige, and cream to the darker shades of brown, grey and black. The word bisht is derived from the Persian — to go on one’s back.
Originally the bisht was worn in winter by Bedouins. Now it’s only worn for special occasions like weddings, festivals, graduations and Eid.
The bisht has been the choice of formal wear for politicians, religious scholars and high-ranking individuals in Arabian Gulf countries, Iraq and countries north of Saudi Arabia. This traditional flowing cloak is meant to distinguish those who wear it. People say no cloth can provide the distinction of a hand-tailored bisht. This is why the art of bisht tailoring is a skill handed down from generation to generation.
Abu Salem, a Saudi tailor from Al-Ahsa, said, “Bishts were first tailored in Persia. Saudis were introduced to them when bisht vendors came here for Haj or Umra.”
Al-Ahsa area in the Eastern Province has been home to the best bisht tailors for over 200 years and leading producers in the Gulf countries since the 1940.
Some families in Al-Ahsa inherited their forefather’s skill and continue to make bishts in their family name. You can find a bisht called the Al-Qattan, Al-Kharas, Al-Mahdi or the Al-Bagli.
Three types of embroidery are used in making the bisht: gold stitch, silver stitch and silk stitch. The thread is called zari and gold and silver are very common. “Black bishts with gold stitching is the most popular, after cream and white,” said Abu Salem. “In the early 90s new colors were introduced to the bisht market. Blue, grey and maroon are mostly worn by the younger generation. The older generation sticks to the traditional black, brown and cream,” he added.
Prices vary from SR 100 all the way up to SR 20,000 depending on the fabric, stitching, color and style. The most expensive, the Royal bisht is specially tailored for princes, politicians and the weathy. “These people usually choose black, honey, beige and cream for their bishts,” said Abu Salem. “They are always handmade and use gold or silver thread and sometimes a combination of both,” he added.
Abu Salem said, “There are two kinds of zari, the genuine which is silk or cotton yarn covered with pure gold or silver, and the imitation where the yarn is covered with silver electroplated copper wire. Each tailor has his own trademark zari design.”
There are three main bisht designs, the Darbeyah, Mekasar and the Tarkeeb.
Darbeyah is handmade with genuine zari embroidery and traditional patterns and the style is square and loose. Mekasar also known as Gasbi, has silk embroidery along the edge of the fabric.
“Tarkeeb means fitting and it comes with a Darbeyah design with gold zari embroidery on tailored bisht fabric,” said Abu Salem.
Until the invention of the sewing machine the original bisht was hand sewn. “These days most bishts are machine-made but some people prefer a handmade one for their finer detail,” he said.
Abu Salem said, “Tailoring Hasawi bishts is an art that requires accuracy and skill. The gold embroidery requires patience and takes many hours. The length of time depends on the style and design. Hand-making one of these bishts could take from 80 to 120 hours and four tailors, each with one specific task.”
The Hasawi, a special of Al-Ahsa, is the most expensive using camel or lama hair or goat wool with gold embroidery on the collar and sleeves.
Traditionally, the bisht has two sleeves but it can be worn with only one arm through the sleeve and the other wrapped around loosely and tucked into the side.
— rima.almukhtar@arabnews.com
Traditional & modern: The Saudi man's bisht
Traditional & modern: The Saudi man's bisht
Saudi model Amira Al-Zuhair returns to the runway
DUBAI: French Saudi model Amira Al-Zuhair returned to the runway this week when she walked in Louis Vuitton’s high jewelry collection show, held at Bellver Castle on the island of Majorca, Spain.
Al-Zuhair reshared a video posted by Dubai-based Iraqi model and influencer Dima Al-Sheikhly, who shared her runway moment with the caption: “Wait for it… our beautiful Amira Al-Zuhair.”
It marks her return to the runway after she hit the catwalk at the amfAR gala in Cannes in May, before which she walked for Australian label Zimmermann at Paris Fashion Week in March.
For Louis Vuitton, the model wore a strapless white gown featuring a fitted bodice and a soft, flowing skirt. The dress was detailed with cascading ruffles outlined in dark trim, which ran down the front and sides.
For the jewelry, Al-Zuhair wore bold, sculptural necklace composed of three gold bands arranged in a layered choker style. One band was set with a row of vivid yellow diamonds, while the other two boasted a twisted, rope-like texture. At the center, a large round yellow diamond pendant was suspended beneath a striking white diamond.
Al-Zuhair also walked Louis Vuitton’s high jewelry show in Saint-Tropez last year.
She wore an intricate chunky choker that featured a wide, structured design with a lattice-like pattern in gold, adorned with numerous diamonds. The focal point of the necklace was a large yellow gemstone, which added contrast to the overall design.
This week, Al-Zuhair also reflected on her recent campaign with Balmain, sharing photos from the Resort 2025 collection shoot.
“Had so much fun shooting inside the Eiffel Tower herself!” she wrote in the caption.
In one of the images, Al-Zuhair donned a strapless denim mini dress paired with two matching denim handbags and calf-high black boots.
In the second image, she wore a black sequined two-piece outfit, featuring a crop top and a high-waisted skirt. The design incorporates gold and silver embellishments, with the top featuring the word “L’aime.”
This is not Al-Zuhair’s first collaboration with Balmain. She previously walked for the brand during Paris Fashion Week in September.
Al-Zuhair, born in Paris to a French mother and Saudi father, has made her mark on the fashion world and has appeared on the runway for an array of renowned fashion houses such as Missoni, Maison Alaia, Brunello Cucinelli, Balmain, Dolce & Gabbana, Giambattista Valli, Giorgio Armani, Elie Saab and more.
Nikki Glaser wears Yara Shoemaker at American Music Awards
DUBAI: US actress and comedian Nikki Glaser attended the American Music Awards this week wearing a black midi dress by US label Yara Shoemaker, founded by Syrian-born designer Yara.
The form-fitting dress featured a lace-up corset detail at the front, with thick straps, a deep sweetheart neckline and metal eyelets that cinched the waist. She completed the look with classic black patent leather pointed-toe stilettos.
The designer also featured at the Cannes Film Festival last week, with part-Saudi model Shanina Shaik and US German model and TV personality Heidi Klum both wearing her creations.
Shaik opted for a two-texture gown featuring a sculpted, strapless corset-style bodice in ivory ribbed fabric. The silhouette flared slightly at the hips and flowed into a floor-length skirt of sheer embroidered lace adorned with beadwork and sequins.
Meanwhile, Klum wore a black strapless gown with a corset-style bodice embellished with black sequins and intricate beadwork. The dress flowed into a sheer floor-length skirt decorated with delicate black appliqué motifs. She completed the look with a voluminous black feathered cape draped over her arms.
The American Music Awards saw “Birds of a Feather” singer Billie Eilish named Artist of the Year, beating Taylor Swift, Kendrick Lamar, Morgan Wallen and others nominees for the top honor. Eilish won all seven categories in which she was nominated, including Album of the Year and Favorite Touring Artist.
“This is so crazy. I feel speechless,” she said in a video message from Europe, where she is currently on tour. “I wish I could be there tonight.”
Gracie Abrams was named New Artist of the Year, while SZA earned awards for Favorite Female R&B Artist and Favorite R&B Song for “Saturn.” Becky G won Favorite Female Latin Artist.
Many of the big names nominated for awards did not attend. One such absentee was Beyonce, who claimed Favorite Female Country Artist and Favorite Country Album for “Cowboy Carter,” her first AMA wins in country categories.
Post Malone was named Favorite Male Country Artist.
Nicola Coughlan donates gown to Gaza fundraising effort
DUBAI: Irish actress Nicola Coughlan has partnered with nonprofit organization Choose Love to donate her Peace Lily couture dress by Robert Wun to a prize draw raising funds for Gaza.
The “Bridgerton” star has long been outspoken about Israel’s military campaign in Gaza.
She wore the dress to accept the Commitment Prize by French media company Konbini at Canneseries in April.
During an hour-long masterclass at the event, Coughlan spoke in depth about not only her work on shows like “Derry Girls” and “Doctor Who,” but also her support of Palestine.
“There is a factor of ‘it’s better if you say nothing’ because our job is to entertain you,” said the actor when asked about speaking in support of Palestine, according to a report by Variety. “My dad was in the Irish Army, which is a peacekeeping force. My family lived in Jerusalem and Syria in the 70s, so it’s something that is in my bones. We are talking about right or wrong, about children being bombed in their beds. I wouldn’t accept that anywhere in the world.”
The actor, who was given the award for being a “talent actively making a change well beyond television,” continued by highlighting how there has “always been a connection between Palestine and Ireland,” and that the two countries have “shared ideals and struggles.”
“Any country in the world that was facing this, I would talk about it. It’s not difficult. For me, the killing of innocent people is never right,” she said.
The tickets for Choose Love’s prize draw are priced at $34 and the organization stated on Instagram that “donation(s) will help Choose Love’s incredible partners who are doing life-saving work in Gaza.”
“It was an honour to wear this custom gown from the inimitable Robert Wun. The message behind it is a rallying call for peace. I’m delighted to donate this gown to the prize draw to support Choose Love’s work in Gaza,” Coughlan said in a released statement about the draw.
The pearl white gown was designed by Robert Wun, a Hong Kong-born London-based fashion designer. After graduating from London College of Fashion, Wun launched his brand in 2014.
Maison Safqa brings insider access, curated drops to Saudi Arabia’s luxury e-commerce scene
DUBAI: The e-commerce space in Saudi is thriving — every so often, the market sees a new entrant, whether in fashion, beauty or lifestyle.
Its newest player is Maison Safqa, a limited flash sales concept platform offering premium-to-luxury brands at special prices — but only for a limited time. Co-founded by Lea Mehaweg, who serves as CEO, her sister Georgia, and former colleague Estelle Nasr, the concept draws inspiration from France, where private sales have long offered brands a discreet way to offload past-season inventory without diluting their image.
“It’s a ... platform where we offer premium to luxury brands at discounted prices,” said Mehaweg. “The whole concept is to support the brand, take their collections — even from previous seasons — and put them in a very elevated and premium shopping environment.”
Maison Safqa’s approach differs from traditional outlet platforms. Rather than overwhelming users with thousands of items, the site hosts limited-time “drops” that spotlight specific categories or designers — from accessories and ready-to-wear, to upcoming plans in homeware, beauty, and lifestyle services like staycations and wellness. “It’s not like a year-round outlet with hundreds of items spread across endless pages where you eventually get lost,” Mehaweg said. “On Maison Safqa, we drop new brands every week — or even every few days — and each one stays on the platform for a limited time.”
Access to these exclusive drops is available to registered members only, reinforcing the platform’s sense of community and curated exclusivity. While membership is currently free, a premium tier with added benefits, such as early access and free shipping, is in the works.
Saudi Arabia was a natural choice for the full launch of the new platform. “The fashion and luxury industry is booming here. More brands are entering the market, which naturally leads to excess stock, and that’s where we come in. We want to be the first to offer a structured private-sale platform that supports brands while delivering real value to customers,” Mehaweg said. Unlike the saturated off-price market in Dubai, Mehweg sees untapped potential in Saudi Arabia, especially in the premium and luxury segment.
Having grown up in France, Mehaweg recalls rarely buying items at full price, knowing they would soon appear on curated private-sale platforms. That same smart, style-savvy mindset is what Maison Safqa aims to tap into.
Another key USP is local relevance. It is rare to see regional designers featured on off-price platforms, but Maison Safqa is committed to championing homegrown talent. Alongside global names like Coach and Victoria Beckham, the platform also features Saudi and regional designers. “Most off-price players are based outside the GCC and rarely include local talent,” said Mehaweg. “For us, cultural resonance matters.”
Though first tested in Dubai, Maison Safqa is now fully operational in Saudi Arabia, with plans to expand across the GCC in the coming months. As the platform grows, its goal is clear: To redefine the off-price experience in the region by blending premium access, local relevance and a curated lens for the modern Middle Eastern shopper.
Cara Delevingne wears Saudi label Ashi Studio
DUBAI: British actress and model Cara Delevingne wore a black gown by Saudi label Ashi Studio to the premiere of “La Venue de L’avenir” (“Colours of Time”) at the 78th Cannes Film Festival.
The strapless gown featured a sleek, satin-like finish with a sculpted bodice that flowed into a straight, floor-length skirt, subtly draped at the hips. She paired the look with sheer black opera gloves for added drama.
Delevingne, her hair styled in soft waves, completed the ensemble with an emerald and diamond necklace and a matching ring from Hassanzadeh Jewellery.
Delevingne’s gown was originally presented during Paris Haute Couture Week as part of the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 couture collection. The version shown on the runway was in blue.
Delevingne was not the only star dressed in designs by Saudi couturier Mohammed Ashi, founder of Ashi Studio.
Hong Kong-Taiwanese actress and model Shu Qi also championed the designer at the premiere of “Resurrection,” wearing a deep burgundy velvet gown from his Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
The strapless dress featured a sleek, form-fitting silhouette. Its standout element was the train at the back, adorned with intricate gold-thread embroidery depicting trees, birds, houses, rivers and other landscape details.
Ashi and his atelier have been based in Paris since 2018. In 2023, he became the first designer from the Gulf region to be invited as a guest member of the Federation de la Haute Couture in Paris, which allowed him to present on the official couture calendar.
In 2024, Ashi was commissioned to design the official cabin crew uniforms for Riyadh Air, Saudi Arabia’s new national airline.
His designs have also been worn by a number of international public figures and performers, including Beyonce, Lady Gaga, Jennifer Hudson, Kylie Minogue, Penelope Cruz, Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor, and Queen Rania of Jordan.
He most recently dressed US actress Ali Ahn, star of Netflix’s “The Diplomat,” in a cream sculptural ensemble for the Screen Actors Guild Awards held in Los Angeles in February.
That same month, “Wicked” star Cynthia Erivo also wore one of his creations to the 2025 Grammy Awards. Her look was from Ashi Studio’s Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection, titled “Sculpted Clouds.”
