Sotra is a Saudi fashion brand that started at the home of fashion designer Nouf Hakeem. She was eager to build a well-known brand made entirely in Saudi Arabia. In 2005, Hakeem’s partner Mariam bint Mahfooz developed the identity of the brand, which helped the project expand from a living room to a showroom.
The name Sotra means modest clothing. To the designers it means a balance between the skin and clothing. “When you go back in time and see every single culture in the world, you will see the clothing is conservative and modest in one way or another,” said Mariam. “We wanted to highlight our Arab women, I like to think they still have the shyness that defines real women,” said Hakeem.
Sotra initially was a brand of tunics, India’s long blouse, redesigned in a modern way. “After we moved to the showroom we only had around 30 designs of tunics. That is when I proposed to expand to an evening line,” said Mariam. “We started experimenting in this field and many of our costumers asked us to design thobes but we were resistant because almost all Saudi designers at that time were producing thobes.”
The evening line by Sotra was developed in 2007. “There was a desperate demand for evening wear that would suit people of our age and style. There was a gap in the market for simple evening wear,” said Hakeem. “We took part in a fashion show to showcase our line and that is when Mariam decided to design headbands to go with our clothing,” she added.
The headbands are what made Sotra popular, as they came out at the perfect time. Headbands started to make a fashion move inspired by the TV series Gossip Girl. “I wanted something that was prominent to make our brand pop, so I designed and hand-stitched 11 headbands,” said Bin Mahfooz. “People were going crazy. Even though we didn’t want to focus on them, we had to because people were asking to take orders and that is how we started designing headbands,” she added.
One year later, Hakeem and Mariam acknowledged the gap in the market for stylish young Saudis in the thobe fashion. “We developed a modern taftan thobe that looks like a dress and can be worn any time of the year,” said Hakeem. “We call them dress-thobes because the fit and cut of those thobes are in the style of a dress and you can add a belt to it and you got a beautiful dress and you can also wear it as a thobe in Ramadan,” she added.
The designers initiated the dress-thobe concept in the Kingdom to change the mentality of people that thobes are only worn in Ramadan. “Thobe do not have to be traditional. You can add simple touches to a thobe and make it look stylish and updated,” said Mariam. “The thobe line was very successful and the younger generation were approaching it. That boosted our confidence and made us produce and develop more concepts,” she added.
The Sotra team designers were only displaying their thobes in one of the biggest Ramadan Bazaars in Jeddah. “It was just positioning, we chose an elite bazaar to show our thobe line in its peek season for people to see the modern thobes,” said Mariam. “We managed to show them our identity by designing our own booth to look like a boutique. This by itself attracted many costumers out of curiosity and we made our name grow more,” she added.
Hakeem and Mariam decided to open a boutique as a next step for their accomplished brand. “It was very difficult to find the best location that would match our style, budget and costumers. We fell head over heels for Ana Ghair Mall because it is quiet and feminine,” said Hakeem. “We love the space and our costumers were very comfortable with it and so we stayed here and made it look like the home of Sotra.”
The designer started focusing on dress-thobes and headbands and stepped away from tunics. “We find it ironic that we wanted the brand to be all about tunics but we drifted away from it and we were very successful at it,” said Bin Mahfooz. “We did it to meet our customers’ demand. In the three years of Sotra’s existence, we have always sought their feedback and aimed to give customers what they want. From Sotra they want headbands and thobes,” she added.
Sotra pieces are a mix between modern and traditional in every single piece. “We love using geometric shapes, we also play with volume and fabrics to make every piece comfortable and stylish,” said Hakeem. “We try to change the kind of fabrics that were traditionally used for thobes and use more practical ones like cotton and mix it with other fabrics depending on the feel and the weight of it,” said Mariam.
Retails shops from outside the country are now buying from Sotra to display. “We designed exclusively for them and within a week our products were sold out.
Sotra can be found in their store in Ana Ghair Mall in Jeddah and in Vibe Store in Centria Mall. The brand is distributed in Qatar, Kuwait and Dubai is to follow soon.
Sotra: Trendsetters from tunics to thobes
Sotra: Trendsetters from tunics to thobes
Fashion Trust Awarbia Award finalist Batoul Al-Rashdan is on a mission to make fashion sustainable
DUBAI: Batoul Al-Rashdan, founder of fashion tech brand Studio B.O.R, is on a mission to provide sustainable alternative materials in fashion.
Al-Rashdan is a nominee in Fashion Trust Arabia’s Fashion Tech category, with the winners of the set of Qatari prizes to be announced at a ceremony in Marrakesh on Oct. 24.
The FTA 2024 Advisory Board selected 18 finalists from applications submitted by emerging talent across the MENA region.
They are competing for six awards: The Ready-to-Wear Award, Eveningwear Award, Jewelry Award, Accessories Award, Fashion Tech Award and Franca Sozzani Debut Talent Award.
The board included the likes of British celebrity-loved designer Erdem Moralioglu, jewelry designer Gaia Repossi and US designer Kelly Wearstler.
Armed with two postgraduate degrees in digital fabrication and textiles, Al-Rashdan is pushing the boundaries of sustainable design in the fashion world.
“There are two aspects of what I do: One is sustainable fabric solutions, some are made from food waste, while (the other) involves bio-design techniques, like extracting natural colors from plant-based bacteria or creating bio-plastics that return to the earth,” she said.
In addition to engineering bio-based materials, her studio is also known for its application of advanced technologies like 3D printing, robotics and parametric design.
“I’m trying to optimize sustainable solutions and test the limits with technology. Ultimately, I want to bridge the gap between research and actual implementation,” she said.
Al-Rashdan’s pioneering work led her to collaborate with Lebanese Italian couturier Tony Ward, which she counts as a significant achievement. “Designers approach me when they want to incorporate fashion tech into their work. When I collaborated with Tony Ward, we started with a parametric dress that was then 3D printed directly on fabric. It was showcased at Paris Fashion Week and was worn by Kylie Minogue, too.”
For Al-Rashdan, winning the Fashion Trust Arabia prize would give her the financial support and exposure she requires to continue her journey with cutting-edge technology.
“It will give me the means to enhance and develop new technology. Most fashion incubators focus on general business practices, but with the FTA, I will get specific mentorship and the opportunity to network with top fashion leaders, tech experts and even global sustainability advocates. Hopefully, it will open more doors for me, lead to collaborations with high-fashion brands and elevate my work to larger platforms.”
The winners will receive a financial grant of $100,000-$200,000, based on the size of their business. Various mentoring and retail opportunities are also available, dependent on the award category.
Riyadh Fashion Week Day 5: Saudi streetwear gets its moment in the spotlight
RIYADH: Riyadh Fashion Week (RFW) wrapped up with a vibrant showcase of emerging male designers who are making waves in the streetwear scene. Monday night’s lineup featured labels such as Hindamme, House of Cenmar, Awaken, Jubb, and 1886.
One of the standout presentations came from Mohammed Khoja, the designer behind Hindamme, a Saudi ready-to-wear label. His collection served as a bridge between the past, present, and future, drawing inspiration from ancient petroglyphs found in Saudi Arabia.
Khoja elaborated on his creative process in an interview with Arab News, saying, “I aimed to create motifs that reflect the ancient heritage of Saudi Arabia while simultaneously looking forward. Each piece in the collection tells a story, merging the old with the new."
The show concluded with a powerful statement emblazoned across a T-shirt worn by rising Saudi singer Mishaal Tamer, who recently played his first gig in London, which declared: “Saudi Arabia is the future.”
The piece was designed in partnership with artist and entrepreneur Lina Malaikah, who said: “My favorite piece is definitely the T-shirt. It encapsulates our belief that Saudi Arabia is on the brink of a bright future across all fields.”
Following Hindamme, House of Cenmar took to the runway with a collection based on celestial motifs.
House of Cenmar’s presentation was not just about fashion but also about storytelling. The collection aimed to convey a sense of mystique and adventure, inviting viewers to explore the narratives behind each piece. The blend of traditional and modern aesthetics showcased the versatility of Saudi streetwear, illustrating how cultural influences can shape contemporary fashion.
As the curtains fell on this year’s event, the audience’s enthusiasm for these young designers signals a promising future for Saudi fashion.
Riyadh Fashion Week Day 4: A masterclass in day-to-night dressing
RIYADH: Day four of Riyadh Fashion Week drew well-heeled crowds as Saudi Arabia’s capital played host to the penultimate day of the annual showcase, with a clear focus on sharp cuts and day-to-night dressing on the runway.
Saudi labels including MD29, RBA, Noura Sulaiman, Harjuss, KML and Mazrood staged catwalk shows.
Known for its experimental take on formal fashion, MD29 presented a boardroom-ready collection featuring deconstructed blazers in a muted color palette of greys, camel tones and dark blues.
Bubble skirts made an appearance on the runway, exemplifying the label’s desire to incorporate current trends in sleek day-to-night wear.
Ready-to-wear brand RBA, which is based between Saudi Arabia and New York, celebrated the power of texture.
Models showed off elevated casual looks created from linen and wrinkled, textured cotton. Layering was a key component of the collection, with hooded waistcoat-style garments styled over linen shirts in shades of beige, rust and chocolate brown.
For her part, ready-to-wear designer Noura Sulaiman, who specializes in both menswear and womenswear, sent a bevy of models down the runway in a variety of looks. Materials and embellishments were varied, with some ensembles featuring gold-to-solver ombre paillettes while others were rendered in ribbed wool.
A standout detail were the lines of embroidered Arabic text on the labels of some blazers and shirts, while a grey jumper dress with a trailing cape decorated with celestial patterns turned heads on the runway.
KML co-founders Ahmed and Razan Hassan showed off an equally chic collection, with structed blazer sets and belted workwear for men. Wraparound co-ords and menswear complete with capes capped off a sleek, standout collection that seemed to meld Arab and Japanese-style influences in something altogether new for the Saudi fashion scene.
Riyadh-based label Mazrood took the evening in a colorful direction with floral knitwear worn under red-piped, blue co-ords and a recurring sky blue flower motif that was spotted on multiple items. The streetwear label kept things casual but also offered evening-appropriate looks, including a blazer featuring a shower of sharp blue embellishments.
Riyadh Fashion Week drew to a close on Monday night and it has been an insightful look at all that the burgeoning — and relatively young — Saudi fashion scene has to offer.
Fashion Trust Arabia Award finalist Tara Babylon reimagines eveningwear through whimsical lens
DUBAI: British-Iraqi designer Tara Babylon, founder of her eponymous fashion label, is redefining evening wear with her avant-garde aesthetic, drawing inspiration from her rich cultural heritage and personal experiences. As a finalist for the Fashion Trust Arabia Award in the evening wear category, her designs are a contemporary interpretation of the ancient city of Babylon.
“I’m very drawn to the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. The fact that it could have been the eighth Wonder of the World is something I take and run with. It’s like this wondrous, magical utopian place,” Babylon said in an interview with Arab News.
Launched in Sept. 2019, her brand fuses vibrant textures, bold colors, and innovative materials. Case in point: her colorful plaid made from elastic weaves, a linen blend dress with hand-woven cuffs, and a hand-made cotton scarf featuring oversized sculptural roses.
Babylon’s unconventional approach to fashion sees her taking common elements such as safety pins and elastic weaves and elevating them to couture status.
“I love the challenge of starting with something simple and transforming it into something luxurious,” she explained.
Her use of safety pins, a nod to her childhood as an emo kid, has become a signature element in her collections.
Babylon’s foray into fashion was a natural progression, she said. Growing up in Sheffield, England, she was always drawn to style, clothes, and texture. She learned how to make clothing in Manchester and moved to London to refine her skills at Central Saint Martins before earning a full scholarship for her master’s degree at Parsons in New York.
Her experiences, particularly with designer Gareth Pugh, solidified her desire to create a visually striking brand.
“Interning at Gareth Pugh was a monumental experience for me, and it changed my entire world,” she said.
Collaborating with artisans in Nepal, Babylon creates intricate coats, gowns, and other unique pieces. Her “carpet coat,” famously worn by Doja Cat, catapulted her brand to cult status on social media.
“When I graduated from Parsons, her stylist saw my piece and reached out to me. Once she wore it, I had a viral moment,” Babylon said.
She has also taught a factory in China some of her techniques — they work on hand weaving and safety pin elements. For Babylon, being a finalist for the Fashion Trust Arabia Award is a game-changer.
“This platform shines a light on designers from the region, educating the world and giving us the recognition we deserve,” she said.
Designers inspired by wildlife and technology at Riyadh Fashion Week
RIYADH: The third day of Riyadh Fashion Week (RFW) saw Saudi labels Mona Alshebil, Abadia, Razan Alazzouni, ArAm, and Kaf by Kaf present their latest collections, with designers exploring such themes as Saudi Arabia’s wildlife and the influence of technology on fashion.
A particular highlight was ArAm by Arwa Al-Ammari, whose fashion show was a celebration of Saudi Arabia's wildlife. The collection was inspired by the country’s rich natural heritage, focusing on animals that are seldom seen, such as the oryx, the Arabian leopard, the Arabian wolf, and the Arabian bustard. In addition to these creatures, the collection drew aesthetic influences from indigenous plants like sider (Ziziphus spina), arar (Juniper), arak (Salvadora Persica), sheh (Artemisia), sant (Acacia), gada (Haloxylon Persicum), and athoba (Senegalia Mellifera).
These animals and plants hold significant cultural importance, often featuring in Arab poetry and idioms, serving as symbols of beauty and resilience deeply rooted in Saudi heritage.
Abdullah Al-Shehri, the only Saudi model on the runway at ArAm’s show, shared his experience, stating, “I represented the work of Arwa Al-Ammari today, and honestly, the show was spectacular. The collection was so creative, and I am really glad to be a part of this show at RFW for the second year in a row.”
Following the show, Kaf by Kaf took to the stage with a striking presentation of designer Kawthar Alhoraish’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, aptly titled "Artificial Beauty." The collection explored the tension between technology and nature, delving into the contradictions that arise when organic forms collide with artificial constructs.
The collection was not only a showcase of fashion but also a commentary on the interplay between the organic and the synthetic.
Shouq, a prominent influencer who donned pieces from Kaf by Kaf, expressed her admiration for the collection. “When I first read the title 'Artificial Beauty,' I was intrigued. But when I saw the robot model strutting down the runway, everything clicked. The reflective skirts and the overall theme were executed brilliantly. I was truly wowed and found myself wanting every piece in the collection,” she told Arab News.
The use of a robot model was a bold choice, symbolizing the fusion of fashion and technology. It reinforced the theme of the collection, making a strong statement about the future of fashion. Kaf by Kaf’s exploration of artificial beauty challenges traditional notions and invites a conversation about the role of technology in our lives and how it shapes our understanding of aesthetics.
As Riyadh Fashion Week continues to unfold, the diverse and thought-provoking presentations from designers like Aram and Kaf by Kaf highlight the vibrant creativity within Saudi fashion.
