TOKYO: Washoku, the traditional cuisine of Japan, is being considered for designation as part of the world’s priceless cultural heritage by the UN this week. But even as sushi and sake booms worldwide, purists say its finer points are candidates for the endangered list at home. The younger generation is increasingly eating Krispy Kreme doughnuts and McDonald’s, not rice.
Among cuisines, only French cooking has been distinguished as a national culinary tradition. Other picks by UNESCO for its World Heritage list, such as food from Mexico and Turkey, are more specific dishes. Washoku embraces seasonal ingredients, a unique taste, time consuming preparation and a style of eating steeped in centuries of tradition. At its heart is savory “umami,” recognized as a fundamental taste along with sweet, sour, salty and bitter.
“That’s a delicate subtle taste. But younger people can’t even taste it anymore because they’re too used to spicy oily food,” said Isao Kumakura, president of Shizuoka University of Art and Culture, who is leading the drive to get washoku recognized. “It’s Westernization. Japanese should be more proud of Japanese culture.”
Kumakura believes UNESCO recognition will send a global message and boost efforts to save washoku, a fight that faces serious challenges.
Annual rice consumption in Japan has fallen 17 percent over the last 15 years to 7.81 million tons from 9.44 million tons, according to government data.
Fast-food chains have become ubiquitous in Japan, including Krispy Kreme, Domino’s Pizza and the perennial favorite McDonald’s. Their reasonable prices and fast service are attracting the stomachs of the workaholic “salaryman” and OL, short for “office lady.”
As washoku dims in popularity, fears are growing the community ties it historically stood for may also be withering, such as cooking together for New Year’s and other festivals.
Those are traditions closely linked to family relations as defined by home-cooking — almost always the taste of mom’s cooking, or “ofukuro no aji,” as the Japanese say.
Yasuko Hiramatsu, mother, housewife and part-time translator, learned how to cook from her mother and grandmother, although she also relies on several cookbooks and watches TV shows to beef up her repertoire.
One of her favorite dishes is ground beef and potatoes cooked in soy sauce, sake and sugar, that she says has a reputation as the way to grab a man’s stomach, and thereby his heart.
Both her husband and son love her “nikujaga.” But it’s a close call whether that recipe fits the strictest definitions of washoku, which is generally more about fish than meat.
Hiramatsu is old-style in making tsukemono from scratch, using “nuka,” or fermented rice bran, from her grandmother’s recipe to replicate the taste that runs in her family. She sometimes doesn’t have time and resorts to packaged stuff from the supermarket. But that’s not the ideal.
“Of course, sometimes I eat out and get French fries, but this is what has been eaten for the longest time,” she said of her home cooking. “It must be something in our blood.”
Washoku is always about rice, miso or soy-bean-paste soup, “tsukemono” pickles, and usually three dishes — perhaps a slice of grilled salmon, broth-stewed “nimono” vegetables and boiled greens. Umami is based on flavor from dried bonito flakes and seaweed, Japan’s equivalent of soup stock.
Washoku is also about design. Fancy ceramic and lacquer-ware come in varying sizes, textures and shapes. Food is placed in a decorative fashion, sometimes with inedible items for effect like an autumn leaf.
Pieces of food may be cut into flowery shapes or carefully wrapped around other food, tied like a package with an edible ribbon. Recipes celebrate the seasons by focusing on fresh ingredients.
Kenji Uda, 47, the chief chef at Tokyo restaurant Irimoya Bettei, where he makes blowfish sashimi and crab cooked in rice, says he was 17 when he decided to devote his life to washoku.
“Japanese food is so beautiful to look at,” he said. “But it takes a lot of time. People are working and busy, and no longer have that kind of time.”
The exodus from washoku is apparent at Taiwa Gakuen, a Kyoto-based school for chefs, where the biggest number of students wants to learn Italian cuisine, followed by French, and interest in washoku is growing only among overseas students.
Seiji Tanaka, who heads the school, hopes the UNESCO decision expected at meeting in Azerbaijan this week will help draw Japanese people back to tradition.
“It’s endangered,” he said.
Tanaka believes the survival of washoku is critical because it’s linked with what he sees as the spirit of Japan, especially the family.
“The ‘wa’ in washoku means harmony,” he said.
In proper Japanese dining, the phrase “itadakimasu,” or “I am going to receive this,” is uttered, preferably in unison, at the beginning of a meal; “gochisousama,” or “thank you for the meal,” ends it.
Different from saying grace, the custom expresses gratitude not only to the chef but for the blessing of having food on the table — the grace of nature.
But even washoku experts say you shouldn’t feel guilty about not eating it three times a day.
Kumakura swears eating with chopsticks — daintily picking each bite-size serving, never piercing — is a symbol of Japanese-ness. But he acknowledges he often has toast and eggs for breakfast.
“Just please try to have washoku at least once a day,” he said with a laugh.
Japan food seeks heritage gong as young spurn rice
Japan food seeks heritage gong as young spurn rice
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Dazzling Cafe’ in Dammam
- Dazzling Cafe is a gem for dessert and coffee lovers alike, blending local craftsmanship with a chic setting
Nestled within vibrant Al-Nakheel Mall in Dammam, Dazzling Cafe is a sleek and stylish spot that has earned its reputation for delivering both aesthetic and flavorful experiences. The cafe boasts a warm ambiance with modern decor, making it an inviting place to enjoy handcrafted desserts and exceptional coffee.
What sets Dazzling Cafe apart is its dedication to offering locally made desserts. Each treat is prepared with care, from the rich tiramisu to the creamy cheesecake, showcasing flavors that feel both indulgent and authentic. The molten lava cake served piping hot in a skillet is a must-try for chocolate lovers, and the attention to detail in presentation elevates the experience.
Complementing the desserts is their exceptional coffee selection. The V60 pour-over coffee is a top choice for many, especially when made with their Costa Rican beans, which offer a smooth, vibrant flavor profile that pairs beautifully with their sweets. Whether you are a coffee enthusiast or simply someone who enjoys a good cup, their dedication to quality will impress.
However, the cafe does have one downside, as it is always crowded. Located in a busy mall, finding a table can be a challenge, especially during peak hours. Patience is key, but it is worth it once you settle in and savor the flavors.
Dazzling Cafe is a gem for dessert and coffee lovers alike, blending local craftsmanship with a chic setting. For the best experience, try visiting during quieter times to fully enjoy its charm.
For more information, check their Instagram @dazzling.cafe
Recipes for success: Chef Jonas Plangger at Myra Jeddah offers advice and a fruit madeleine recipe
DUBAI: When German pastry chef Jonas Plangger first accepted the offer of a job in Saudi Arabia from Amro Bagedo, founder and CEO of Kraiv, three years ago (a job that has since involved overseeing the launch of the pattiserie and “all-day dining concept” Myra Jeddah, where he is the executive pastry chef), it nearly ended his marriage.
Plangger, no stranger to travelling abroad for work, took the job, he says, because his “gut feeling” once presented with the challenge made him say yes. Before he checked with his wife, who wasn’t especially impressed at not being consulted.
Fortunately, the move has paid off personally and professionally for Plangger and his family, who have now settled happily into life in the Kingdom.
And Myra, he says, is thriving. “Breakfast trade is extremely strong. The lunch trade is extremely strong. And then the evening trade is where the most people eat cake,” he tells Arab News. “So we have a very strong customer base throughout the whole day.”
It’s a customer base he describes as a tough crowd.
“The Saudi customer is very, very challenging,” Plangger says. “Wants everything, wants it now, is very picky… but once convinced is the most loyal customer you can experience.
“We’re ready to transfer the brand to Riyadh. That’s the next step. I’m really looking forward to this. The company is growing. It’s really exciting times. My staff, they’ve all been with me from the beginning. I’m really proud of them. They’re really, really strong pastry chefs. We are proud of what we’re doing. If you compare what else is on the market, I think we can put our chests out a bit.”
What’s your top tip for amateurs?
The secret to all cooking — at home, in a professional kitchen, wherever — is to plan ahead. Take a piece of paper, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and follow those steps. What (inexperienced) chefs do, what I did myself… You want to do everything right now, everything all together. But that doesn’t work. The to-do list is crucial. Work clean and organized, have an idea of what you’re doing. Plan it through. Is the oven ready? Do I have my bowls? Do I have my sieve? Do I have my ingredients? Because when you suddenly need the flour, and it’s in a cupboard somewhere, and you need to call your mom, it ends in disaster.
What one ingredient can improve any dish?
For me, vanilla bean. I think it’s the turbo for every dessert, it gives everything an elegant touch — a bit of luxury. I’m obsessed with it. It’s an expensive ingredient, but it just adds another layer of flavor to everything,
And what’s the most underrated ingredient?
Probably cinnamon. Everyone knows you’ll have it in an apple crumble or a cinnamon roll or whatever, but, especially in the Middle East, cinnamon is used for so many different things. Even in pastry, or just a normal vanilla sponge, you add half a gram of cinnamon and it just lifts the whole thing up, without tasting of cinnamon. It’s very nice and very, very underrated. 
When you go out to eat do you find yourself critiquing the food? Or are you able to switch off your ‘chef brain?’
No, I can’t. I’m really pleased if I like something on a personal and a professional level, it makes me very happy. But of course I start nitpicking. It’s normal. But it goes both ways. Yes, (chefs are) more critical, but if I find someone who puts effort in and the service is good and the food is good and the whole experience is good then I love praising people.
And what’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants?
Lack of seasoning. I can forgive a lot, you know? Like it might be a busy restaurant… so service (might suffer). Maybe it’s not to your personal liking. But if the food is bland, that’s just a lack of care. Because it means the chef didn’t taste his food.
What’s your favorite cuisine?
Italian. It’s the simplicity of it. Simplicity and flavor. I absolutely love pasta. I was in Italy recently and it’s a different game. It’s, like, four, five, six ingredients. I love it.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
Black Forest gateaux. I’m from the Black Forest. We take that very, very seriously. It’s a joy to make. It’s where I come from. It’s my identity. That’s why I really enjoy doing it.
I’d imagine that’s quite a lot of pressure the first time you make one?
To be fair, at the bakery where I was an apprentice, we made like, 80 a day. I really learned it from scratch in the Black Forest.
What customer behavior most frustrates you?
When someone seasons the food without trying it. Yeah, I can’t deal. I think it’s very rude. It disrespects the chef. At least try it.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to perfect?
From a chef’s point of view, the most difficult is anything that is very clean and very neat, and you don’t have a lot of flavors going on. You have nowhere to hide. Obviously, pastry chefs are very good at hiding (things) by chocolate. I think sushi is one of the most difficult to get right, because you have rice and you have fish. That’s it. If the rice is not spot on, or the fish is not spot on, or the technique is not spot on… see you later. In the pastry world, I think that goes more for baking, like, a croissant, say. You make a simple mistake there, in the lamination or in the proving… People don’t understand how much effort goes into a single croissant.
In the kitchen, what are you like as a leader?
Firm but fair. I’m very passionate. Extremely passionate. Things get a bit wild. But I love to lead. I love to teach to let people grow. Discipline is crucial. I have a big Michelin background, and without discipline… don’t even start. My team is from all parts of the world, but we all have one common path to guide us; that’s the discipline.
Chef Jonas’ fruit madeleines 
WARNING: You’ll need a madeleine baking pan (pan with small shell-shaped molds) and a piping bag.
INGREDIENTS
For the madeleine batter:
3 eggs; 10g honey; 100g sugar; 5g baking powder; 120g all-purpose flour; 1g salt; 2g vanilla essence; 110g melted butter
For the fruit mixture (all fruits should be dry): 50g dates; 50g apricots; 50g cherry; 50g mango; 50g raisins; 1 vanilla stick; zest of 1 orange; 3g cinnamon; 300g stock syrup
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Mix the eggs, honey and sugar in a bowl or processor for 3 minutes. Set aside.
2. Sieve together the baking powder, all-purpose flour and salt and fold under.
3. Add melted butter and vanilla essence.
4. Combine both mixtures together and mix until it becomes firm.
5. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, but ideally for 12 hours.
6. In a separate bowl, put all the ingredients for the fruit mixture, including the syrup, and allow to soak for at least 2 hours, but ideally for 12 hours.
7. Combine the batter with the fruit mixture, put in a piping bag. Line your madeleine molds with grease and flour. Pipe the mix into the molds.
8. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 165 C for 11-13 minutes.
Where We Are Going Today: Maritime
Where We Are Going Today: Maritime
Afshan Aziz
Located in the Jeddah Edition hotel at Kurnaysh road, Maritime delivers an unparalleled dining experience, blending French finesse with Asian culinary traditions.
The restaurant’s design features contemporary sophistication, with stylish tables and seating that enhance the overall aesthetic.
Guests are welcomed into a sleek, inviting space where an open-show kitchen serves as the focal point, allowing diners to witness the artistry behind each dish.
Maritime’s menu is a celebration of culinary creativity, showcasing an inspired fusion of flavors. Chef Cedric Vongerichten, celebrated by Zagat as one of the top 30 chefs under 30, has meticulously crafted the menu, skillfully blending locally sourced ingredients with global influences to create a distinctive selection of dishes that delight the palate.
The lunch menu offers an array of vibrant salads, comforting starters and hearty entrees, tailored for a midday feast. Highlights include the zesty avocado salad with quail eggs and peanut relish, the delicate salmon sashimi with turmeric dressing, and the savory mie goreng, a stir-fried noodle dish enriched with prawns and bean sprouts. For those seeking comforting bites, the corn fritters, paired with sambal oelek and kecap manis, deliver a satisfying mix of sweet and spicy flavors.
Dinner elevates the experience with an expanded and more refined menu, showcasing small plates and entrees. To begin your meal, the monkey bread is served warm and fresh, accompanied by salted butter — a comforting and flavorful start that sets the tone for the dining experience. The shrimp dumplings draped in velvety lemongrass beurre blanc and topped with caviar are a standout, alongside crispy baby squid paired with galangal emulsion.
Main courses offer an exquisite range, from the flavorful garlic crab rice, accented with tapioca crisps and fresh cilantro, to the juicy half chicken Lombok, served with smashed rosemary potatoes for a perfect balance of spice and comfort. The lamb shank, paired with crunchy okra and a deeply spiced gulai sauce, is another favorite that impresses with its tender texture and bold flavors.
Whether it is lunch or dinner, Maritime’s offerings cater to diverse tastes. While the lunch menu features lighter and quicker fare, the dinner menu adds a layer of indulgence, offering an expanded selection of thoughtfully crafted dishes.
Maritime’s desserts are as indulgent as the savory dishes. The pandan custard with passionfruit and the banana sundae featuring ube ice cream offer the perfect sweet conclusion to a meal.
Complementing the menu is a selection of temperance beverages and innovative drinks. Highlights include the vibrant Saffron Spritz, a blend of clementine, honey, ginger, and saffron, and the creamy yet refreshing Avocado Oasis, combining Lyre’s white cane, avocado, cucumber, chilli honey and black lava salt. The tangy Rujak Bounce delights with pineapple, tamarind, lime, gula jawa and tajin, while the elegant Amaretti Sour pairs Lyre’s amaretti with lime juice, cherry, and orange peel. For a classic touch, the Martini features Conviv bianco, Lyre’s dry London, mementi blue and olive brine, offering something for every palate.
For private gatherings, Maritime offers two elegant dining rooms, providing exclusivity and intimacy for special occasions.
Check @maritimejeddah for more information.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Nakhat Alshraq’ authentic northern Indian cuisine
- Prices are reasonable, making Nakhat Alshraq an excellent option for those seeking quality Indian food without breaking the bank
Nakhat Alshraq is a haven for those craving authentic northern Indian cuisine, with branches in Riyadh, Dammam, and Alkhobar.
Known for its dedication to fresh ingredients and bold spices, this restaurant has become a favorite for families and food enthusiasts.
The menu boasts a variety of classics like butter chicken for SR59 ($16), chicken tikka masala, and chicken biryani, all expertly prepared and bursting with flavor.
The royal biryani stands out as a signature dish, with its rich blend of basmati rice, fresh vegetables, and perfectly balanced Indian spices.
The Singapore noodles is an Asian fusion option that delivers a unique twist to the dining experience. The dishes are meticulously presented, showcasing attention to detail that elevates the overall meal. The vibrant and cozy ambiance creates a welcoming environment for gatherings, whether casual or celebratory.
Prices are reasonable, making Nakhat Alshraq an excellent option for those seeking quality Indian food without breaking the bank.
Additionally, the restaurant caters to a diverse palate, offering both mild and spicy dishes, ensuring something for everyone.
However, the restaurant’s popularity is both a blessing and a curse. Nakhat Alshraq is frequently crowded, particularly during peak dining hours, which can make securing a table a challenge. For those who plan ahead, this minor inconvenience is outweighed by the consistently excellent food and service.
For more information, check their Instagram @nakhatalshraq.
Where We Are Going Today: Crosto bakery in Dammam
- The Crosto Om Ali provided a warm, creamy, comforting conclusion to the meal
If you’re in Dammam and looking for a flavorful brunch or a light meal, the recently opened bakery Crosto offers a cozy atmosphere and a versatile menu catering to different tastes.
The maple shrimp for SR46 ($12) was the highlight of our visit — perfectly cooked shrimp complemented by a sweet maple glaze. The chicken sliders (SR33) were another favorite — juicy, tasty, and served on fresh buns. The Turkish shakshuka and Crosto avocado are worth trying too.
The Crosto Om Ali provided a warm, creamy, comforting conclusion to the meal.
Crosto’s Turkish Coffee is a must-have for coffee enthusiasts. Its authentic preparation and rich taste paired perfectly with the desserts, enhancing the overall dining experience.
The atmosphere at Crosto is welcoming and casual. However, the service during our visit was a little slow, which might be a concern if you’re in a rush.
With its mix of regional and international flavors, Crosto could be a good choice for your next outing in Dammam.
For more information, check their Instagram @crosto.sa.
