They are the traditional markers in Nigeria of both ethnic and social identity — and even royalty — but for Raphael Akindele and young men like him, hats are sometimes quite literally a pain.
“I just don’t feel smart and comfortable wearing a hat on a ‘buba and sokoto’,” said the 21-year-old, referring to the traditional long robe and trousers worn by many Nigerian men.
“Such dressing belongs to the old school,” the computer technician told AFP at a recent Lagos wedding, where his t-shirt and jeans set him apart from other guests in colorful traditional attire.
From Trilbies, Homburgs and Panamas to Bowlers and Fedoras, hats were once an essential part of any appropriately dressed Western gentleman’s wardrobe until fashions changed.
But in Nigeria, hats of all colors, shapes, sizes and designs are still a regular sight.
Internationally, the country’s current most famous hat wearer is President Goodluck Jonathan, who is rarely seen without his black Fedora, which is widely worn by men in Nigeria’s oil-rich southeast.
Elsewhere, the Trilby or Bowler, sometimes adorned with a white feather, is in vogue with men in the Niger Delta, while men from the Hausa ethnic group favor the “habar kada,” which is likened to a crocodile’s mouth.
Many Yoruba men plump for the “gobi,” an embroidered soft cap that can be worn either fully raised or tilted to one side, or the “abeti aja,” whose triangular flaps are folded either side like dog ears.
For Igbo males, only traditional chiefs and monarchs wear the red fez-like hats popular in northern Africa, while others sport headgear similar to the “gobi.”
With such a wide variety, it might be thought that any image-conscious young man would be able to find one to suit his own style.
But Ismail Aminu, a 24-year-old student in the northeastern city of Maiduguri, said simply: “I get headaches whenever I put on caps for long.
“I use them occasionally or during religious or traditional ceremonies because I see them as a burden on my head.
“Caps in this part of Nigeria are heavy because they are mostly knitted and starched. Using caps among the youths is gradually becoming a thing of the past.”
Many older men, for whom hat-wearing is second nature, admit they are baffled and even outraged at the vogue for a bare head.
Maiduguri trader Abdulahhi Abubakar, 43, said the phenomenon was “an aberration of the culture of the Hausa” while lecturer Lere Adeyemi said it “violates the ethos of Nigerian culture.”
Former teacher Benjamin Ofomadu, 76, said for his generation, not to wear a hat with traditional dress was considered “a cultural sacrilege of sort and... irresponsible.”
In some cultures, hats are seen as a “mark of respect for your head... your destiny or inner god,” said Adeyemi, who teaches African and Asian cultural studies at the University of Lagos.
“If you do not wear a cap on a traditional dress, your dressing is incomplete,” he added.
“It simply shows that there is a disconnect between such a person and culture, which is part of our life. And this is sad.”
Critics blamed television and the creeping influence of foreign or Western culture for the trend, while Adeyemi claimed the dress codes in some jobs were a lingering form of colonialism.
Nigeria’s banking sector, for example, requires men to wear a Western-style suit and tie. Horsehair wigs and gowns introduced by the British former rulers are still seen in the legal profession.
Young men in jeans, t-shirts — and even baseball caps — are meanwhile increasingly seen in places such as Lagos, indicating that outside trends were taking hold.
“They see people in suits and they admire them. They no longer appreciate caps,” said Ibrahim Musa Babagana, a 52-year-old sociology teacher.
Hats off for young Nigerians as fashions change
Hats off for young Nigerians as fashions change
Dyson expands footprint in Saudi Arabia due to ‘increasing demand for technology’
DUBAI: Alongside a roster of new product launches, technology company Dyson is expanding in Saudi Arabia due to an “increasing demand for high-performance technology,” a spokesperson told Arab News.
In the haircare field, the recent launches of the Dyson Supersonic r™ hair dryer — smaller, lighter and more maneuverable than the original Supersonic™ hair dryer — and its limited-edition haircare colorways have made headlines in the international beauty industry. And when it comes to Saudi Arabia, the most recent opening in Jeddah’s Red Sea Mall is part of a planned slate of stores in the country with another set to open this summer.
“With Saudi’s Vision 2030 there is an increased investment in technology, retail, and infrastructure, so now is the ideal time to deepen Dyson’s presence and make our advanced engineering solutions more accessible to consumers,” the representative said, before noting the “appetite for cutting-edge solutions in the Kingdom.”
According to Dyson, customers at the brand’s stores in Riyadh, Dammam and Jeddah are looking for high performance technologies that tackle problems like air pollution and dust. Floorcare and environmental care products also resonate with customers given the environment in the region, particularly the HEPA air purifiers, according to the brand.
When it comes to hair styling, heat damage, stickiness, brittleness and crunch are issues customers are most keen to tackle, with the “Dyson Airwrap™ i.d. multi-styler and dryer quickly becoming a fan favorite for styling.”
The interest in haircare is something Dyson has taken note of in the Kingdom, with the latest store in Jeddah featuring two private styling stations and a wash basin for veiled buyers who wish to try products including the Supersonic Nural™ hair dryer, the Dyson Airstrait™ and Dyson Corrale™ cord-free straightener, among others.
“We offer personalized styling sessions at Dyson Demo Stores, where (customers) can learn how to maximize the performance of our products,” a Dyson representative explained.
Fashioning identity: Saudi designer champions tour guides as ambassadors
- Dallal Al-Juhani’s uniform concept weaves together tradition, technology
- We should showcase Saudi heritage to the world through tourism and fashion, she says
JEDDAH: In Saudi Arabia, where each region’s distinct heritage shines through its landscape and traditions, tour guides serve as vital ambassadors — and one Saudi designer believes their attire is key to embodying the cultural treasures they represent.
Dallal Al-Juhani, a fashion design faculty member at Taibah University, has developed a visionary concept for tour guide uniforms in AlUla which blends heritage with modern style.
Using technology to champion heritage, her project merges the cultural identity of AlUla with aesthetics and the functional needs of the job, highlighting Saudi identity in its finest form.
“Saudi heritage has its place and value,” she told Arab News. “We should be proud of it and showcase it to the world through the tourism and fashion sectors."
HIGHLIGHT
Dallal Al-Juhani, a fashion design faculty member at Taibah University, has developed a visionary concept for tour guide uniforms in AlUla which blends heritage with modern style.
Al-Juhani holds a bachelor’s degree in clothing and jewelry design from Taibah University, and boasts a master’s in fashion design from King Abdulaziz University.
She added: “During my studies there was a significant focus on fashion that reflects heritage, as well as the role of modern technologies in the development of the fashion industry.”
Reflecting on the inspiration behind her vision for tour guide uniforms, she said: “During my visit to AlUla in 2021 I noticed that tour guides did not have a specific uniform to stand out to visitors.
Saudi heritage has its place and value. We should be proud of it and showcase it to the world through the tourism and fashion sectors.
Dallal Al-Juhani, Saudi designer and academic
“As a fashion designer I felt compelled to find a solution to this issue by creating designs suitable for this role.”
Al-Juhani’s uniform concept reflects the rich identity of AlUla through colors, patterns, materials, and techniques, all inspired by the region’s heritage.
It serves as a visual narrative, representing the beauty of AlUla’s monuments while establishing a deep connection between the storyteller and the place itself.
She said: “Patterns were inspired from iconic locations such as Al-Hijr and Jabal Ikmah, incorporating Nabataean letters and prominent symbols such as the bull, lion, and hand.”
Functionality was a key consideration in the uniform’s design, and Al-Juhani added: “The uniform gives the tour guide a sense of belonging and comfort, leaving a positive impression on tourists, which elevates the level of professionalism in the tourism sector.”
As a young Saudi designer Al-Juhani’s message to her peers is to keep up with modern trends by utilizing new technologies in design and illustration. In fact, as part of her project, she harnessed artificial intelligence techniques to enhance her designs.
And to bring her vision to life she used AI-powered tools like Midjourney and Lexica to develop prototypes before transitioning to manual work.
She said: “I used natural leather and techniques such as burning and decoration that mimic the ancient Nabataean style. I also added traditional details using leather threads and blanket stitching to enhance the heritage touch.”
While Al-Juhani did face some challenges in sourcing high-quality materials, the input offered by tour guides made the process smoother.
She added: “I made sure to involve them in every stage to strengthen their connection to the uniform, making it a project they felt a part of rather than just a product.”
Her innovative approach has already earned her recognition, and Al-Juhani was awarded the gold medal at the London International Exhibition of Inventions and Innovations in 2024, as well as receiving special recognition from Croatia and Romania at the same event.
“It was proof that heritage and monuments give design authenticity, uniqueness, and enhance its aesthetic and expressive value,” she said.
France’s IMA launches Arab Fashion Award
- Award will celebrate ‘enormous creativity’ of Arab designers says IMA’s Philippe Castro
PARIS: The Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris has announced the launch of its Arab Fashion Award — the AFA-IMA — to promote and celebrate the rising stars of the Arab world’s fashion scene.
Since its opening in 1980, the IMA has supported Arab creativity in all its forms, including fashion. It has hosted numerous shows and exhibitions highlighting the role fashion plays at the intersection of cultures.
Philippe Castro, chief of staff of the presidency of the IMA, and the man behind the new initiative tells Arab News that “the moment seems ripe” for the launch of the award.
“We’re seeing Fashion Weeks popping up in Riyadh, Dubai, Beirut and Marrakesh. We’re seeing enormous creativity in fashion design in the (Arab) region as a whole and there is a growing appetite for these designers. They deserve our attention,” Castro says. “Christian Dior once said, ‘The air of Paris is the very air of haute couture.’ The same can be said today of the air of Riyadh, Beirut, Egypt, Morrocco and Tunisia. All these places have a long tradition of couture. Take Tunisia, for instance; it’s no coincidence that master couturier Azzedine Alaïa came from Tunisia.”
If Paris is the world capital of fashion, that is thanks in no small measure to Castro’s longtime colleague Jack Lang, president of the IMA. As Minister of Culture, it was Lang who saw the potential for fashion to become a booming industry for France. In 1982, he succeeded — in the face of a lot of pearl-clutching — in making the Cour Carrée of the Louvre and the Tuileries Gardens the principle venues of Paris’ runway shows, moving fashion front and center in public consiousness. The number of fashion shows in Paris doubled between 1980 and 1990, after which fashion was definitively established as a sector that means serious business.
“Jack Lang made fashion fashionable.” Castro says. “We’re very lucky to have him as our president. He gave an unprecedented impetus to young fashion designers in the 1980s. Having worked alongside him for many years, as a big advocate of fashion, this award seems natural and inevitable.”
Castro is a regular visitor to Saudi Arabia, where, he says, he has witnessed “an incredible evolution in fashion” over the past decade, especially in Riyadh and Jeddah.
“There is a tangible effervescence and dynamism visible with people on the streets. On my most recent visit to Riyadh, I visited concept stores selling abayas. I find the reinterpretation of the abaya and the thaub brilliantly creative,” he says. “The designers have limitless imagination; they know how to explore their own culture creatively. I was also fascinated to see superb Saudi-designed streetwear for the first time. I fell for a towelling beach robe with pockets and a hood inspired by traditional Saudi robes — pure creative genius!”
Navigating the international fashion world is a complex challenge for young international designers. Creative talent is not enough, they need experienced professional mentoring. So the IMA is partnering with the world-renowned Institut Français de la Mode (the French Fashion Institute) to help the award winners develop their professional skills in cutting, patternmaking and marketing as part of the prize.
This first edition of the AFA-IMA is deliberately fluid. Jewellery and accessory designs are also eligible for entry. The award has two categories; Emerging Talent and Innovative Talent, with an option for the jury to grant a third award to an established Arab designer. Other categories may be added as momentum grows.
“It will evolve according to the type of entries we receive and be adapted accordingly,” says Castro. “This is an haute-couture — not ready-to-wear — process.”
The award is open to designers who are nationals of Arab League countries or part of their diasporas. The jury consists of key figures from fashion, art and culture including Pascal Morand, executive president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode; Pascale Mussard, the founder of Hermès’ upcycled luxury brand Petit h; Lebanese fashion designers Rabih Kayrouz and Milia Maroun; Elsa Janssen, director of the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris; and Manuel Arnaut, editor of Vogue Arabia.
“We composed our jury of people at the pinnacle of their profession. We always aim for excellence,” says Castro. “The members will follow the prize-winners’ progress closely. This is not a one-off. It’s a long-term initiative to showcase the region’s enormous creativity.
“We composed the jury of good friends of the IMA — a friendly needle and thread which will make dazzling embroidery. It’s a project that comes from the heart, because fashion is all about emotion. If there is no heart, there is no point,” he continues. “We are living in an era of severity, if we can diffuse some beauty into the world, so much the better for us all.”
If you need to know the price ... you can’t afford it
- Rare blue diamond valued at $20m goes on display in Abu Dhabi before auction next month
- The blue diamond will also be showcased in Taipei, Hong Kong and New York before its exhibition and sale in Geneva in mid-May
ABU DHABI: A rare blue diamond valued at $20 million went on pre-auction display on Tuesday in Abu Dhabi.
The 10-carat Mediterranean Blue, which will go on sale in Geneva next month, is the showpiece of a collection estimated at $100 million.
“Included in the group are the largest flawless diamond in the world ... the second-largest red diamond known to exist and several diamonds over 100 carats,” Sotheby’s auction house said.
The polished stones were on display in Abu Dhabi’s Saadiyat Island cultural district on Tuesday next to lavish jewelry, including a white-diamond encrusted necklace featuring a 100.26-carat pear-shaped brown diamond pendant.
The blue diamond will also be showcased in Taipei, Hong Kong and New York before its exhibition and sale in Geneva in mid-May.
“At the top of the rarity pyramid are blue diamonds,” said Quig Bruning, head of jewels for Sotheby’s in North America, Europe and the Middle East.
“Diamonds of exceptional color and size are by definition wonders of nature that seldom occur, so their presence at auctions can only be infrequent.
“Such diamonds were rarer than usual on the market in the past year or so, which makes the sale of the Mediterranean Blue an even more exciting event.”
Imaan Hammam talks 'incredible time' in new campaign
DUBAI: Dutch-Moroccan-Egyptian model Imaan Hammam took to Instagram to highlight Gap Studio’s inaugural campaign, in which she stars alongside US models Alex Consani and Anok Yai.
Gap Studio is a new high-end segment from the US retailer. Created by Zac Posen, Gap Inc.’s executive vice president and creative director, Collection 01 reflects Posen’s signature approach to tailoring and draping while reimagining Gap’s core textiles such as denim and poplin.
“Had the most incredible time bringing @zacposen’s designs to life for #GapStudio with @anokyai and @alexconsani,” Hammam captioned the post, featuring a behind-the-scenes look at the shoot.
Key pieces in the collection include the twill tailored trench coat, double-breasted blazer, high-rise sailor pant and poplin maxi shirtdress.
Earlier this year, Hammam took to Instagram to announce the launch of her new archival project, Ayni, which will highlight significant contributions to Arab film, art, music and literature.
“Meet Ayni (@ayni.vault), an archive dedicated to the preservation and promotion of Arab artistic expression through ‘my eyes,’” Hammam captioned the post on Instagram.
“Follow along as I highlight some of the most significant contributions to Arab film, art, music, and literature — both old and new — and celebrate the talented artists behind them. This project holds such a special place in my heart, and I hope you enjoy it just as much as I enjoy curating it.”
Late last year, the model made waves when she delivered the opening remarks at the highly regarded Fashion Trust Arabia Awards’ sixth event, in Marrakech, Morocco.
The 28-year-old went on stage in a black kaftan from Moroccan designer Selma Benomar. The heavily embroidered look highlighted Moroccan artistry and design, and paid tribute to the country’s royal family.
“So honored to open this year’s @fashiontrustarabia Awards here in the motherland,” Hamman said on Instagram. “Celebrating Arab artistry in the place where my roots run deep made this experience truly special. Proud to uplift the creativity that makes our culture unique. A special thank you to @selma_benomar_caftan for designing this gorgeous Moroccan custom-made caftan.”
Although Hammam was born and raised in Amsterdam, her mother is from Morocco and she visits the country frequently.
Hammam is one of the most in-demand models in the industry. She was scouted in Amsterdam’s Centraal Station before making her catwalk debut in 2013 by walking in Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture show.
