Chef Alexandre Couillon has a name that he himself admits “is not easy to carry.”
But the man whose surname translates as “Idiot” was named as France’s cook of the year, having turned his family’s humble “moules frites” joint into one of the country’s best seafood restaurants.
His triumph is all the more remarkable because the restaurant is at the farthest end of the unpretentious island of Noirmoutier off France’s west coast, a favorite for bucket and spade family holidays.
The 40-year-old chef, who featured on the Emmy-winning Neflix show “Chef’s Table” last month, has built a worldwide reputation for the simple but ingenious way he cooks ingredients from his garden and the little fishing port of L’Herbaudiere his eatery overlooks.
The first year he and his wife Celine took over the then seasonal La Marine restaurant “we didn’t have a single customer one night in July,” Couillon told AFP.
“You don’t come here by accident. Now we have people coming 800 kilometers (500 miles) for dinner.
“It’s amazing... we have five or six e-mails from abroad every day to book tables next year,” the fisherman’s son added.
Dishes like black oyster poached in Colonnata lard with squid, sardine crackers and cauliflower ice cream and equally creative deserts using local seaweed won over the judges from the Gault and Millau guide who named him best chef.
The guide is France’s most trusted gastronomic benchmark after the Michelin guide.
Couillon, who has two Michelin stars, said the couple started with nothing. “We had pink tablecloths, old rush seat chairs and the cutlery came from a self-service place,” he recalled.
And he insisted success had not changed him. He would still be keeping things simple with “no snobbishness, no truffles nor caviar.”
“Nothing is going to change. I remain an artisan. I just want to get up every morning and keep that same pleasure of going to work,” said the father of two.
’Monsieur Idiot’ named France’s chef of the year
’Monsieur Idiot’ named France’s chef of the year
Recipes for success: Chef Georges Ikhtiar offers advice and a tasty beef recipe
DUBAI: Georges Ikhtiar, head chef at Amelia Dubai, grew up in Beirut, where he remembers watching his mother cook “by instinct, without recipes or rules.”
That early exposure sparked a curiosity not just for flavors, but for the process of cooking — how ingredients transform, how timing and technique matter. This eventually led him to Lebanon’s Ecole Hôtelière.
A pivotal career moment came during his time in Peru, where he was introduced to the country’s bold, acidic and layered flavors. This now shapes his approach at Amelia, where he blends Peruvian ingredients with Japanese methods.
Here, Ikhtiar reflects on how mistakes can lead to creative breakthroughs, and gives his thoughts on simplicity in cooking.
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
Like many young chefs, I believed that more was more — that adding extra ingredients or steps would somehow elevate a dish. I loved experimenting, and while that spirit of curiosity still drives me today, I’ve learned that simplicity is key. The most powerful flavors often come from restraint and letting the ingredients speak for themselves.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Taste constantly. It’s the most important tool you have. And don’t let mistakes throw you off — every error is a lesson. Some of the best ideas I’ve had started as accidents. Cooking at home should be fun, not stressful.
What’s one ingredient that can instantly improve any dish?
In Peruvian cuisine, it’s definitely lime. It brings brightness, aroma and a sense of freshness that can completely transform a dish. Just a few drops can awaken the palate and sharpen and enhance every other flavor.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
A simple truffle pasta. I soak the pasta to speed up the cooking time, then toss it with a creamy truffle sauce, fresh shaved truffles and parmesan. It’s rich, comforting and comes together fast, but still feels luxurious.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
Always. It’s part of the job. I’m always observing, analyzing, and seeing what I like or don’t like. But I keep it to myself; dining out is also about experiencing what other chefs are creating.
What’s the most common mistake you notice in other restaurants?
It’s usually to do with balance or execution, like undercooked elements, seasoning that is off, or dishes that feel overcomplicated.
What’s your favorite cuisine?
I gravitate toward Japanese and Peruvian food, naturally, but I’m always curious to explore. I like to see how others approach flavor, presentation and structure. Inspiration can come from the most unexpected places.
What request or behavior by customers most annoys you?
Honestly, nothing. I believe taste is subjective and the customer is always right. We’re here to create an experience that works for them, not just for us.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
It is a dish called Adas be Hamid, which means lentils with lemon. My grandmother used to make it when I was growing up in Beirut. It’s incredibly simple but full of flavor and warmth. Cooking it always takes me back to my roots, and I love how food has the power to do that.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
Risotto. It’s a very delicate dish that reacts to everything — temperature, timing, movement, even the humidity. You have to be fully present when making it. One misstep and the whole texture is off.
As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback?
I’m direct and hands-on, but not someone who shouts. I believe in open communication, mutual respect and building trust. My team and I have worked together for a long time, so we understand each other without needing to say much. There’s a flow in the kitchen when everyone is aligned, and that’s what I strive for.
Chef Georges Ikhtiar’s hokkaido machu picchu recipe
Ingredients:
For the beef:
250g beef tenderloin
Salt and black pepper, to taste
Cooked over a robata grill (or any hot grill pan)
For the teppanyaki vegetables:
2 tbsp vegetable oil
20g Chinese cabbage, chopped
3 rainbow baby carrots, sliced
20g mange tout (snow peas)
10g shiitake mushrooms, sliced
20g baby corn, halved
1 spring onion, thickly sliced
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp kimchi sauce
2 tbsp sake sauce (optional for extra depth)
For the shiitake sauce:
300g fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced
1L fresh cream
200ml milk
Salt and black pepper, to taste
1 small onion, chopped
1 tbsp butter
Instructions:
1. Grill the beef:
Season beef with salt and pepper. Grill on a robata grill until cooked to your liking. Let it rest before slicing.
2. Sauté the vegetables:
Heat oil in a pan. Add the vegetables and stir-fry for a few minutes.
Add soy sauce, kimchi sauce, and sake sauce (if using). Stir well and cook until just tender. Season with pepper.
3. Make the shiitake sauce:
In a saucepan, sauté onions and mushrooms in butter until soft.
Add cream, milk, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and let simmer. Boil twice to bring out full flavor, then remove from heat.
To plate:
Slice the grilled beef.
Place the sautéed vegetables on a serving plate.
Lay the beef slices on top.
Spoon the warm shiitake sauce to the side or over the top.
Optional: If using a hot stone for serving, you can lightly reheat the meat on it just before eating for a fun finishing touch.
Where We Are Going Today: Iris Cafe in Riyadh: diverse menu, inviting atmosphere. What’s not to like?
Iris Cafe is an elegant dining destination nestled within the new Ramla Terraza complex, offering a delightful blend of food and ambiance. Located on King Fahd Road in the Sahafah district of Riyadh, this cafe and restaurant boasts a beautiful interior, complemented by both indoor and outdoor seating options. The upper floor features a stunning garden with an open seating area and a mocktail bar, perfect for enjoying a refreshing drink in a serene environment.
The menu at Iris Cafe is a culinary journey, showcasing gourmet dishes inspired by international cuisines, including Mediterranean, Japanese, and Latin American flavors. Guests can indulge in a variety of offerings, from sandwiches and pasta to vibrant salads. The drink selection is equally impressive, featuring specialty coffees and a creative array of mocktails alongside delicious desserts.
Visitors may begin with the Iris Oriental Dips, which include creamy black hummus, spicy roasted chickpeas, and special muhammara seasoned with parmesan cheese and fresh basil, all served with homemade crackers. This appetizer sets a high standard for the meal to follow and does not disappoint.
However, the chicken tacos, featuring buttermilk-fried chicken topped with Asian slaw in a soft tortilla, are less memorable. On the other hand, the crispy chicken and shrimp wontons served with sweet chili and lime sauce are a highlight and a must-try.
For the main course, you may try the glazed chicken, marinated and grilled with pomegranate sauce. The beef cheek, slow-cooked for 12 hours and served with caramelized onion cream, is absolutely delicious. This dish is a standout and sure to impress anyone looking for tender, flavorful meat.
The San Sebastian cheesecake is rich and incredibly satisfying. Overall, Iris Cafe offers a wonderful dining experience with its diverse menu and inviting atmosphere, making it a must-visit spot in Riyadh.
Recipes for success: Chef Jonathan Bouthiaux of Banyan Tree Dubai offers advice and a tasty lobster recipe
DUBAI: From Michelin-starred kitchens in France to luxury resorts across the globe, Chef Jonathan Bouthiaux has built a career defined by precision, creativity and a passion for sharing culinary stories.
His journey began in Saint-Malo, Brittany, and took an unexpected turn through charity work in Africa, where cooking became more than a skill — it became a calling. Now, as the executive chef at Banyan Tree Dubai, Bouthiaux oversees the kitchens and menus across the resort.
Here, the chef talks about learning to keep dishes simple, trusting good ingredients, and how he leads his team to create memorable dining experiences.
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
Like many young chefs, I used to overcomplicate things, too many elements on a plate, trying to impress instead of letting the ingredients speak. Over time, I learned that clarity, restraint and seasonality make a stronger impact than complexity for complexity’s sake.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Master the basics. Learn how to season correctly and respect your ingredients. Do not stress. Cooking should bring joy. If you forget an ingredient, improvise. Some of the best dishes are born from happy accidents.
What ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Acidity, like a touch of fresh lemon juice or a splash of good vinegar, can instantly elevate a dish by bringing balance, brightness and depth. It sharpens flavors and adds complexity. Another game-changer? Infused herb oils; a simple drizzle of basil or rosemary oil can completely transform a dressing or a finished plate, adding aromatic intensity and a refined, layered finish.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
I naturally notice the details — it comes with the territory — but I always try to appreciate the overall experience.
What’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants?
It’s not always to do with technique. Often, it’s about intent. You can sense when a dish has been prepared out of habit rather than with care. In a city like Dubai, ingredient quality and value also stand out. Today’s guests are discerning. They expect transparency and authenticity. Honest flavors and thoughtful sourcing always make a difference.
When you go out to eat, what’s your favorite cuisine?
I enjoy discovering all types of cuisine, especially when it’s something new or unexpected. That said, I am particularly drawn to Japanese and Italian food. Both are rooted in simplicity, precision and a deep respect for ingredients — values that strongly resonate with me. I also have a solid background in these cuisines, so I find myself naturally appreciating the balance, technique and cultural expression they bring to the table.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
A miso-glazed salmon with a side of steamed greens and sesame brown rice. It’s light, nutrient-rich and packed with umami. Plus, it comes together fast without sacrificing flavor or elegance. I always look for that sweet spot between health, simplicity, and satisfaction — something that feels good to eat and is good for you.
What customer request most frustrates you?
I’m open to adjustments where possible, but I find that excessive alterations to a dish can sometimes disrupt the flow of the dining experience. Dining should be about trusting the chef’s vision and embracing the flavors as they’re crafted. That said, our priority is always ensuring our guests feel satisfied and valued.
What’s your favorite dish to cook and why?
One of my favorites is Homard à l'Armoricaine (Lobster Armoricaine). This classic French recipe is special to me, as I’m originally from Saint-Malo, Brittany, where I first learned it at the Michelin-starred restaurant La Duchesse Anne. The dish is a true test of technique, requiring multiple steps — from preparing the lobster to creating a rich, flavorful sauce. It is a celebration of fresh lobster and bold flavors, and I enjoy the process as much as the final result. This dish always brings me back to my roots in Brittany and reminds me why I’m so passionate about cuisine.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
One dish that requires a high level of technique and precision is the pithiviers—a beautifully intricate puff pastry pie, often filled with game or foie gras, and fresh black truffle. It showcases the kind of refined execution I truly enjoy. The balance of flavors, the evenness of the puff pastry, and the perfect seal all need to come together seamlessly. It’s not just a dish, it’s a statement of culinary skill and elegance.
As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback?
I oversee multiple restaurants, so it’s about building a culture. I believe in structure, consistency and leading by example. Discipline is essential, but not through fear — through clarity, respect and accountability. I focus on empowering my team, mentoring young chefs, and fostering an environment where excellence is the standard, not the exception. Consistency is key — without it, even the most creative ideas lose their value. At the end of the day, we are here to deliver memorable experiences, and that begins with a motivated, aligned team.
RECIPE: Chef Jonathan’s lobster linguini
For the Lobster Bisque:
Ingredients:
1 kg lobster shells (from raw or cooked lobster)
80 g white onion (1 small), chopped
40 g carrot (½ medium), chopped
60 g celery (1 large stalk), chopped
15 g garlic (3 cloves), crushed
50 g tomato paste (3 tbsp)
2.8 L water
2 tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
For the pasta:
500 g linguine pasta
2 whole lobster (about 500–600 g)
2 tbsp olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
320 g tomato sauce
160 ml lobster bisque (from above)
40 g confit or roasted cherry tomatoes
8 g fresh tarragon, chopped (plus a few leaves for garnish)
Step-by-step instructions
Make the lobster bisque (can be made ahead)
Preheat the oven to 200°C (390°F).
Place lobster shells on a baking tray and roast for 20 minutes.
In a large pot, heat olive oil, then sauté the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic for 6–8 minutes.
Add the roasted shells and tomato paste. Stir and cook for 5 minutes.
Add 2.8 L water, bring to a boil, then lower heat, cover, and simmer for 1 hour 30 minutes.
Blend the mixture using a hand blender or standard blender.
Strain through a fine sieve. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Cook the lobster:
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the lobster and poach for 5–6 minutes.
Remove, cool slightly, then crack and remove the meat. Slice into bite-sized pieces.
Heat a small pan with a knob of butter and quickly flash the lobster meat to finish.
Cook the pasta:
Boil linguine in salted water until just al dente (around 8–9 minutes).
Drain and set aside, reserving a bit of pasta water.
Assemble the dish:
In a large pan, heat 2 tbsp olive oil and sauté minced garlic until fragrant.
Add the tomato sauce and lobster bisque. Simmer for 2–3 minutes.
Add cooked pasta and toss well to coat. If needed, add a splash of pasta water.
Add chopped tarragon, cherry tomatoes, and the lobster meat. Mix gently for 1–2 minutes.
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
To serve:
Plate the pasta in a warm bowl or shallow plate.
Top with lobster pieces, cherry tomatoes, and a spoon of sauce.
Garnish with fresh tarragon leaves, lobster foam (optional), and a drizzle of basil oil (optional).
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Cafe Boulud’ – French restaurant in Riyadh
- The wagyu striploin, served with panisse, salsify, and a black pepper jus, was a standout, tender and deeply flavorful
Riyadh’s Cafe Boulud, a French restaurant founded by chef Daniel Boulud, offers a culinary performance as refined as its marble interiors and softly lit atmosphere.
From the moment you’re seated, you’re in for a journey, not just a meal. The tasting menu is an elegant parade of flavors, beautifully plated and rich with French technique.
Each course is executed with precision, but it’s the taste that truly stuns.
The raviolo, for example, with its herbaceous ricotta filling and a delicate touch of pine nut and parmesan, felt both comforting and complex.
The wagyu striploin, served with panisse, salsify, and a black pepper jus, was a standout, tender and deeply flavorful. Even the lighter dishes, like the hamachi with horseradish and pistachio, were layered and bright.
Of course, this level of dining comes with a high price tag. But when you consider the attention to detail, the ambiance, and the impeccable service, it feels justified. You’re not just paying for food, you’re paying for artistry.
This is the kind of place you visit for a special occasion, or when you want to be reminded that food can be more than a meal, it can be an experience.
For more information, check their Instagram @cafebouludriy.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Jinji’ – Korean cuisine in Jeddah
- Jinji lives up to its bold slogan, “Serious meals only,” especially when it comes to Korean barbecue
Jinji, the newest addition to Jeddah’s growing lineup of Asian eateries, offers a casual and contemporary take on Korean cuisine.
Located on Hira Street in Ash Shati District, this spot has quickly gained popularity for its street food-inspired menu, serving up favorites that feel straight out of Seoul’s bustling food stalls.
My visit started off with Korean classics like the crispy kimchi pancake and seafood pancake, both golden and satisfying. The kimchi version held a bit more punch for me.
Their fried chicken is a highlight, especially the honey soy and sweet and spicy variations that offer a crispy bite with rich flavor. The plain fried chicken felt a little underwhelming in comparison and could use a touch more seasoning.
Jinji lives up to its bold slogan, “Serious meals only,” especially when it comes to Korean barbecue.
The ribeye and short rib platter is ideal for sharing, with well-marbled cuts that are tender, juicy and full of flavor. The galbi plate, with its savory-sweet soy marinade, is another crowd-pleaser.
The striploin and brisket platter is solid, though we found the brisket slightly dry on one visit. That said, grilling right at the table adds a hands-on experience similar to the authentic Korean BBQ joints of Seoul.
Noodle lovers will appreciate the variety of ramyeon options, from the creamy pink rose version to the brisket ramyeon.
The bibimbap is well-executed with fresh toppings, and the tteokbokki brings enough heat to satisfy fans of spice.
Portion sizes are generous, and the pricing is reasonable as the BBQ platter, ranging between SR 200-250 ($53-66), easily feeds two to three people.
Desserts bring a refreshing end to the meal, especially the authentic bingsu, a milk-based Korean shaved ice dessert in flavors like mango and Oreo. The hotteok pancake, filled with sugar, cinnamon, and nuts, is warm, chewy, and worth saving room for.
The ambiance is minimalist and relaxed, though during peak hours the space can feel a bit cramped and noisy.
For more, check Instagram @jinji_sa.
