Al-Ula — Romancing a forgotten past

Al-Ula Castle.
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Updated 19 December 2019
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Al-Ula — Romancing a forgotten past

Since reading William Dalrymple’s “City of Djinns,” I have been intrigued by travel to places full of the whispers of times gone by. Visiting ancient sites allows one to imagine the kind of life the inhabitants may have lived along with their dreams, their aspirations, their creativity and their art.  

The rebirth of AlUla
Hegra, ancient city of the Nabataeans in Saudi Arabia’s historic AlUla Valley, is emerging from the mists of time to take its rightful place as one of the wonders of the world

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It is not in buildings of concrete and glass that you find meaning; rather it is in the alleyways of old towns, the forts and castles, the mountains and the trees, the huge sand deserts. They have lasted when people turned to ash and dust. They know the world as we never will.
This present tale is of the northwestern part of Saudi Arabia. Al-Ula is a small town some 300 km from Madinah. While many people have heard of the Madain Saleh site, few know about this small archaeological wonder very close to it. It is accessible via a small detour between Tabuk and Madain Saleh. Though relatively unknown to tourists, the site has been subjected to intense excavation by the Saudi Commission for Tourism and National Heritage (SCTNH) and has attracted attention from experts from all over the world.
The excavations are largely out of bounds unless one possesses a special permit SCTNH, which is not difficult to acquire. My husband and I did not have one so we were not able to visit the ancient sites. Nevertheless, what little was open to tourists was fascinating enough to prompt me to write, in order to encourage people to explore this ancient wonder.
The oasis of Al-Ula was known in ancient history as the capital of two ancient Arab kingdoms — the Kingdom of Lihyan and the Kingdom of Dedan which preceded it. Dedan, an ancient name for Al-Ula, later gave way to the Lihyanite kingdom from the Lihyan tribe in that area. The Lihyanites had their own script which was one among many North Arabian oasis scripts. Archaeological evidence indicates their influence extended to cities as far away as Tayma and Dedan (Al Ula). The Lihyanite dynasty ruled for around 200 years or more at Khuraybah which is one of the archaeological sites. According to inscriptions found at Harran in modern-day Turkey, the last Babylonian king led a military campaign which conquered the three most important settlements of the region — Tayma, Dedan and Yathrib (Madinah) in about 552 BCE. The more recent Islamic history is of especial interest to visitors to this area.

Places to visit in Al-Ula
• The Old City — The old city is said to have developed in the 13th century CE and is divided into two districts by the strategically placed Al-Ula Castle, which predates the old city by almost a millennium. To the north of the castle is the Ashqaiq district and to the south, the Al-Halaf district. A walk in the alleys of the town takes one back in time and one can almost imagine the life of the people who once lived here with streets lit in the evening by lanterns. Most houses are accessible to visitors and one can step inside to view what the floor plan of a house built 700 years ago was like. Though some houses were built with stones from the ancient Lihyanite ruins which are said to bear inscriptions, we did not come across any of them. Since we were there on a Friday, the tourist information office was closed. There were not many visitors besides us but we got to explore the town in great detail and take many photographs; the two mosques were especially interesting places.
• Al-Ula Castle — This is an ancient castle which may not seem very grand to those who have visited such structures in other countries. It was built on a sandstone promontory in about the 6th century BCE and rebuilt several times over the century. It was built of quarried sandstone from nearby hills and many of its foundation stones are from the original 2,600-year-old construction. The castle walls are well preserved as compared to the later structures built around it. A climb to the top requires little effort for people in good physical shape and the view from the top is delightful.
• Al-Khuraybah (Jabal Khuraybah) — This is where the ruins of the ancient town of Dedan/Lihyan were found. It is a fortress built on and around hills. It contains tombs cut inside rocks at the foot of the mountains, the most famous being the Al-Asad Lion Tomb — due to two lions carved at its entrance. It also contains a building which archaeologists consider to be a temple with a bath-like structure 4 meters in diameter and 2.5 meters deep, possibly used in religious rituals. Several inscriptions are on the walls, the most notable is the inscription with names of a family of devotees of the Lihyanite deity. Due to ongoing excavations, this site is currently accessible only to those who have a permit from the SCTNH.
• Umm Ad-Daraj (The Mother of Steps/Staircases) — The is a series of steps built on a hill in the archaeological site. The steps lead to three sandstone structures, a slab of which seems to be a sacrificial altar with inscriptions in the Lihyanite script. Again, this site was closed for visitors without a permit.
• Al-Ula Museum — We were told that this small museum has intriguing archaeological items on display as well as information on the culture, flora and fauna of the area. The museum is open Sunday to Thursday from 8 a.m. to 2.30 p.m.
• Natural Rock formations — The sandstone promontories and rock formations are wonders to behold. The rock formations are believed to have been formed by the same geological processes which formed the Grand Canyon in the US. One shape in particular is strikingly similar to the silhouette of an elephant, the famous Elephant Rock, and is a favorite spot for tourists.
For places to stay, one can find furnished apartments. The Al-Ula Arac Resort is a place in the huge sandstone mountains. It is the only resort in town and it is where we camped for the night. The sunset and morning views are spectacular from your private patio and a small landscaped garden is very inviting for evening tea. If you are the camping type, there are plenty of opportunities for you to go into Bedouin mode but be sure to be equipped for such an excursion.
Al-Ula is a place which gives us a glimpse of the life and culture of an ancient people. However little it may be, these people did leave a mark on the history of Saudi Arabia and it is only fitting that we honor their memory by spreading awareness.

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The rebirth of AlUla
Hegra, ancient city of the Nabataeans in Saudi Arabia’s historic AlUla Valley, is emerging from the mists of time to take its rightful place as one of the wonders of the world

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Virtual, AI-powered Saudi travel companion impresses visitors at travel exhibition in London

SARA was on show in the Visit Saudi pavilion at the World Travel Market, which began on Monday and concluded on Wednesday. (SPA)
Updated 09 November 2024
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Virtual, AI-powered Saudi travel companion impresses visitors at travel exhibition in London

  • The new app, called SARA, offers users insights and advice about the Kingdom’s tourist attractions in a natural and seamless conversational style

RIYADH: The Saudi Tourism Authority unveiled the beta version of SARA, its new travel companion app for visitors to the Kingdom, at the World Travel Market exhibition in London this week.

It allows users to interact with a digital female guide, powered by AI, who is deeply knowledgeable about Saudi Arabia and offers insights and advice about the country’s tourist destinations, historical landmarks, archaeological sites, cultural diversity, international events, and anything else a visitor might be interested in.

SARA was on show in the Visit Saudi pavilion at the World Travel Market, which began on Monday and concluded on Wednesday. Officials said she interacted directly with attendees, who were captivated by her engaging stories about the Kingdom’s tourist attractions and experiences, and the extensive information she was able to provide.

The app reflects the nation’s progressive approach to smart tourism, they added, and leverages the latest developments in AI so that it can respond to questions, understand visitor needs, and offer personalized information and suggestions in a natural and seamless conversational style.

 


Off the beaten track in Sri Lanka 

Updated 08 November 2024
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Off the beaten track in Sri Lanka 

  • New visa rules have made it easier than ever for Gulf tourists to visit the island nation 

TORONTO: Sri Lanka has long been a favored destination for visitors from the Gulf. Easy access, budget-friendly offerings, and diverse experiences – from cultural and historic landmarks to idyllic beach resorts and scenic treks – make it an ideal getaway destination. And now, there’s one more reason for Saudis to take a trip to the island nation. Last month, the Sri Lankan government announced that residents of Saudi Arabia, the UAE, Qatar, Oman, and 31 other countries can now visit without a visa.  

The capital, Colombo, is probably the most popular destination in Sri Lanka, along with Kandy and Ella, but the less-frequented areas in the central and southern regions of the country are well worth considering.  

The Summerville Bungalow in Hatton. (Supplied)

My Sri Lanka trip started in Hatton, in the Nuwara Eliya region. Often called “Little England,” the region is a reminder of the country’s former colonial rule, with Tudor-style architecture and sprawling tea estates named after their former British proprietors.  

The central province is home to Sri Lanka’s renowned tea highlands. Tea is an integral part of the island’s history and culture — as its former name, Ceylon, suggests. 

My encounter with Ceylon tea starts at the Dunkeld Tea Factory, owned by The Dilmah Group, a family-run business that has become a global name. The tea is single-origin — meaning it is picked, cultivated, and packed from the lush, rolling terraces of the region. The tour takes guests through the history of Ceylon tea, which actually began with coffee plantations in the 18th century. But leaf disease devastated those plantations, leading to the demise of the short-lived coffee industry in Sri Lanka. In 1867, James Taylor, a Scottish man, planted the first tea clearing in Kandy. By the late 19th century, the country had become one of the largest tea producers in the world. Guests are also invited to a tea-tasting experience, including the Orange Pekoe, the robust tea blend that is a specialty of the region. 

The terraces of a tea plantation around the Ceylon Tea Trail. (Supplied)

I stayed at Summerville, one of the five palatial bungalows once home to English plantation owners which have now been refurbished into boutique properties by the Ceylon Tea Trails Hotel under the Resplendent Ceylon Group. Perched at nearly 4,000 feet and set across 2,000 hectares, the bungalows are perfect for those seeking a slow, luxurious vacation. Guests can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the emerald hilltops from various vantage points or unwind in the several tranquil lounge spaces scattered throughout the bungalows. Or — with a private chef and butler on hand — choose to indulge in a five-course dinner that features the likes of a Yatawatte tea-infused roasted chicken or the Earl Gray fondant. 

The tea trails, ranging from four to 15 kilometers long, connect the various bungalows, offering scenic hikes through the valleys. For those seeking adventure, the newly-inaugurated Pekoe Trail (a 300-km route with 22 phases) allows tourists to explore the rich biodiversity of the area. This trail can be experienced on foot or by rail. 

The Wild Coast Tented Lodge in Sri Lanka. (Supplied)

The next leg of my trip was drastically different. As we were making our way down from the central region to Sri Lanka’s southern tip, the hilltops, winding roads, and cool weather gave way to palm trees, speedy tuk-tuks, and tropical weather. 

In the Hambantota district, the biggest draw is undoubtedly Yala National Park, the second largest national park of the country, and the one with the highest density of leopards. An early morning or afternoon game drive provides ample opportunities to spot wildlife, including the elusive leopard, sloth bears, and elephants.  

After the adrenaline rush of a wildlife safari, I head to our ‘glamping’ lodge — the Wild Coast Tented Lodge, another one of Resplendent Ceylon’s properties. The luxury camp is unfenced and wildlife will often wander into the premises from the park, giving guests a sometimes-gleeful, sometimes-terrifying experience.  

The lodge itself is an architectural delight, focusing on sustainable design and the use of organic materials, including bamboo. It includes 28 “cocoons” or pods scattered throughout the jungle wilderness. The interiors feature rustic touches like cooper hardware, a leopard-claw bathtub, and vintage leather furniture. 

It’s also here that the jungle meets the Indian Ocean. As I wandered along the rugged coastline or enjoyed a sundowner, I was once again reminded of the serenity that Sri Lanka has to offer. 


Saudi Arabia’s recreational spaces ready for holiday season

Updated 08 November 2024
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Saudi Arabia’s recreational spaces ready for holiday season

AL-BAHA: Saudi authorities have announced extensive preparations of public recreational facilities ahead of the school holiday season.

The Al-Baha municipality has readied 142 parks and recreational areas, along with municipal squares, public spaces and streets, to welcome visitors and tourists.

According to regional secretary, Ali bin Mohammed Al-Sawat, these facilities span more than 4,188,559.98 million square meters and feature amenities including children’s playgrounds, green spaces, shade structures, lighting, sidewalks, seating areas and parking, and facilities for activities such as walking and cycling.

The Al-Barouqi Tourist Farm in Al-Baha region features agricultural terraces, famous trees and old wells. (SPA)

Meanwhile, the Eastern Region Municipality has completed the preparation of 979 parks and public squares, 18 public recreational parks, 14 waterfront areas and 213 walking tracks.

The facilities are timely as moderate weather conditions and school breaks attract more outdoor activity.

The municipality emphasized its commitment to regular maintenance of these facilities, considering them vital breathing spaces for citizens and residents.
 

Al-Nakheel Park Tabuk region's Haql governorate is more than just a recreational destination. It is a place where residents and visitors can uncover stories of the past, shared by their ancestors. (SPA)

 


Cloud7 Residence AlUla: A dreamy home away from home  

1 - MAIN IMAGE - Cloud7 Residence AlUla 2 - supplied
Updated 07 November 2024
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Cloud7 Residence AlUla: A dreamy home away from home  

  • The gated resort is an ideal place from which to explore the ancient desert oasis  

ALULA: Roughly half an hour’s drive from AlUla’s Prince Abdul Majeed bin Abdulaziz International Airport, Cloud7 Residence is the largest hotel in the area, boasting 301 modern bungalows. Each unit is thoughtfully designed, featuring individual private terraces from which guests can enjoy awe-inspiring views of AlUla’s stunning landscapes — mountains and lush greenery.  

Cloud7’s decor blends the ancient with the trendy. Coupled with the traditional Saudi hospitality on offer, this is a truly nice place to stay. It’s the chillest hotel/resort I’ve been to in ages. 

Inside one of the 301 bungalows at Cloud7 Residence. (Supplied)

The beds are comfortable and the rooms are well-equipped, including plenty of places to plug in your devices. There are eco-friendly products provided, including chewable toothpaste that comes in tiny pills in a glass jar, and which activates once you have some water in your mouth.  

The fridge comes stocked with complimentary sodas and plenty of water bottles at the ready — also useful for feeding into the coffee machine. 

The main mode of transportation in the grounds, whether taking your luggage to your room, going to breakfast or to relax by the pool, or heading to your next activity, is a buggy. There was usually one right outside my door each time I emerged from my bungalow, but if there isn’t, you can simply call for one. 

The swimming pool at Cloud7 Residence AlUla. (Supplied)

The residence is an ideal base for both short- and long-term stays, designed to accommodate the needs of leisure seekers, adventure enthusiasts and business travelers alike in its secure, gated space. 

As part of the residence’s commitment to honoring local heritage, a series of murals created by local artists adorn the walls. Artists including Hanan Sami and Maram AlSelayem brought their individual styles to the project, creating pieces that highlight AlUla’s natural beauty and heritage. The venue’s community and culture manager, Fahad Alfaqir, said the artists who painted the murals are all from AlUla, as he is, and that they depicted local plants and flowers to decorate the spaces and used inscriptions from indigenous languages.  

Cloud7 Residence AlUla’s dining experiences range from gourmet meals to relaxed, family-friendly options. Charcood, the resort’s signature restaurant, offers a selection of smoky, charcoal-grilled dishes crafted by Chef Jaume Puigdengolas. Open for breakfast, dinner, and light bites, it was my go-to place to start the day. 

One of the murals at Cloud7. (Supplied)

For those who prefer a more casual atmosphere, Off-Road Café serves lunch, dinner and light snacks in a laidback setting, perfect for watching live sports or movies on large screens. Guests can enjoy playing pool, darts and foosball, or indulge in some shisha outside. 

For those seeking a relaxing time away from being away, the Pool Lounge offers casual dining with comfortable beanbags and a curated menu of international flavors, all presented poolside. It was perhaps my favorite spot to sit and literally reflect while the serene water reminds you to stay centered. 

Cloud7 Residence AlUla is also in a prime location for exploring AlUla’s many historical sites. Visitors can easily reach attractions like the ancient city of Dadan, Jabal Ikmah’s rock inscriptions and — my favorite — Old Town. You can book guided tours, but the hotel also provides car and bike rentals. 

Cloud7 Residence AlUla is more than just somewhere to stay; it’s an invitation to connect with the timeless beauty of AlUla — a place which makes you feel so big and so small all at once. 


Tashkent: An underrated gem of the Silk Road

Kukeldash Madrasah in Tashkent. (Shutterstock)
Updated 17 October 2024
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Tashkent: An underrated gem of the Silk Road

  • Uzbekistan’s capital city boasts grand architecture and a rich cultural history 

DUBAI: Tashkent may not be as famous for its architecture and culture as Paris, Rome or Barcelona, but the capital of Uzbekistan is an underrated gem for tourists.  

With a population of more than three million, Tashkent is the largest city in Central Asia, which was formerly part of the Soviet Union. Tashkent — which means “city of stone” — is historically significant as one of several trading hubs (along with its neighboring cities Bukhara and Samarkand) on the Silk Road stretching from Europe to China. In the 8th century, the city was under Muslim Arab rule, and Islamic architecture, studded with stunning blue tiles that match the skies above Tashkent, remains a notable feature.  

Under Soviet rule, Tashkent saw a rise in the modernist style of heavy, brutalist buildings beloved by the USSR — see, for example, the overwhelming, grid-like exterior of Hotel Uzbekistan, established in 1974. Between the 1960s and 1990s, such structures were part of a plan to rebuild the city after an earthquake in 1966.  

Tashkent's Alisher Navoiy Theater. (Shutterstock)

One of the grandest buildings in Tashkent is the centrally located Alisher Navoiy Theater, an elegant opera house which opened in the 1930s, playing the timeless melodies of classical maestros Tchaikovsky, Prokofiev and Verdi. It is named after the poet and national hero dubbed “the father of Uzbek literature,” who was born in modern-day Afghanistan during the 1400s. Designed by the Soviet architect Alexey Shchusev, the 1,500-seat opera house radiates with European and Oriental stylistic elements. Its six lobbies are named after the Uzbek cities of Bukhara, Khorezm, Samarkand, Fergana, Termez and Tashkent.  

A number of museums — devoted to history, art, geology and warfare — exist in the capital; one of the best is the highly ornate Museum of Applied Arts, which pays tribute to the delicate handcraftsmanship of traditional Uzbek artisans, and displays embroidery, pottery, miniature paintings, jewelry and weaponry. The building itself is a work of art too, showcasing detailed wooden ceilings rendered with floral and geometric motifs.  

There are more than 2,000 mosques in Uzbekistan and one of its oldest is Kukeldash Madrasah, founded in the 1500s. The tranquil site, which has been restored and used for various purposes over the years, was originally built to host lessons in Islamic studies and the Qur’an (lessons which still happen today). It also houses an intimate calligraphy studio. The main facade features Arabic scripture and a pattern of arches, decorated by predominantly blue mosaics.  

Close by is the lively and substantial Chorsu Bazaar, where locals go to shop for food, spices, crockery and trinkets. The ruby-colored pomegranate fruit is particularly popular, and also features as a motif on clothing, acting, in a way, as a symbol of the country. The bazaar sits under a blue ornamented dome, which was designed in 1980.  

Inside Tashkent's Chorsu Bazaar. (Arab News)

If you’re looking for a more peaceful location, then the Rakhimovs Ceramic Studio is the place to be. This haven of creativity, accessible by appointment only, aims to preserve the heritage of ceramic art. Full of decorated pottery pieces, the family-run space tells the story of four generations of ceramic masters, starting with one of Tashkent’s prominent 20th-century ceramicists and restorer of mosaics Mukhitdin Rakhimov down to his grandson, Alisher Akbarovich Rakhimov, who has passed along the art of pottery to his son, Shokhrukh.   

And Tashkent’s attractions are not all on its surface. Be sure to visit the Tashkent Metro, which, in 1977, became the first subway system in Central Asia. Its 29 stations resemble art galleries, full of sophisticated columns, patterned domes, colorful tiles and murals with stories of national pride to tell. Perhaps the most famous station in the system is Kosmonavtlar (Cosmonauts), with its blue-and-white interior that inspired by the ‘space race,’ which occurred between the 1950s and 1970s. The walls of the station showcase large medallions depicting the Soviet Union’s leading astronauts, Yuri Gagarin and Valentina Tereshkova, respectively the first man and woman to go to space.  

Kosmonavtlar Station on the Tashkent Metro. (Shutterstock)

Tashkent is an ideal location for lovers of architecture who want to discover something atypical. It has a visually appealing landscape of old and modern buildings, demonstrating the city’s diverse cultural heritage, which is worthy of preservation and attention.