Karachi is Pakistan’s largest and most multicultural city, with a diverse ethnic, religious and political make-up that most residents are proud of. But the city is often in the spotlight for being a trouble spot — and many people from Karachi are well aware of this.
Some choose to live in fear and rarely venture beyond their comfort zone. Then there are those who accept the realities of living in a city with an estimated population of between 15 and 25 million people, and embrace it no matter what happens. And some in the latter camp, fiercely loyal to their city, believe Karachi has a lot to offer and that they can help change perceptions for the better.
In December 2014, two such individuals, Atif bin Arif and Bilal Hassan, both born and raised in Karachi, came up with the idea of the city’s first guided bus tour — the “Super Savari Express.”
This was their way of encouraging local tourism, and educating the public about the city’s rich heritage. They sell tour tickets at 2,500 Pakistani rupees ($24) through their Facebook page, and aim to help both Pakistanis and foreigners access religious and historical sites that have been forgotten and are now hidden in the busy city streets.
‘Yellow devils’
One of the unique aspects of the Super Savari Express tour is that you have the opportunity to explore the city in a typical Pakistani bus. Once known as the “yellow devils,” Pakistani buses are fast, with passengers sometimes expected to jump onto the bus as it drives past a stop; others may have to sit on the roof if there is no room inside.
Earlier this year, I was lucky enough to be able to go on one of the Super Savari Express bus tours. When deciding where to sit on the bus, I chose the most exciting spot — on the roof.
That was an incredibly exhilarating experience, affording panoramic views of the city. However, I had to climb up using a ladder attached to the side; I had no cushion to sit on, no safety belt, and had to use a couple of rods attached to the roof to help maintain my balance. I even had a well-to-do looking man from Karachi ask me, rather patronizingly, if it was not a bit dangerous for me to be up there. Since it was such a memorable experience, I am glad that I did not let his comment change my seating arrangements.
First stop on the tour
At around 8 a.m., bright and early on a Sunday, we started our tour and briefly stopped at our first site, Kabootar Chowk, a roundabout known for its hordes of pigeons, opposite the Sindh High Court. I was surprised to learn that a statue of Mahatma Gandhi once stood there, but of course after the Partition of India, it was removed and given to the Indian Embassy in Islamabad. The roundabout is now a popular destination for families on days off.
Our next stop was at Zaibunnisa Street, located in the famous neighborhood of Saddar. I was most interested in exploring this part of Karachi mainly because it is one of the oldest parts of the city, and there are still remnants of British colonial architecture there. I had often heard stories from my grandfather about shopping on Elphinstone Street, an earlier name for Zaibunnisa Street, as it was once the most fashionable shopping destination in the city. One could find a wide variety of clothing, jewelry, watches, and shoes as well as many other items.
As it was a Sunday, no one was around, and we were able to comfortably wander through the streets of Saddar. While we were unable to go inside the New Memon Mosque, we did get a chance to peek into a Parsi temple. Later, we stopped by a small restaurant in the area for a hearty Pakistani breakfast — paratha, omelet and chai. My favorite!
Empress Market impresses
We then went to one of the most popular and busy markets in Karachi, Empress Market. Today, Empress Market is where many people from the city shop for spices, vegetables, pets and household goods. Historically, however, it is the site where many Indian soldiers were publically executed after a failed uprising against the British in 1857.
After wandering around in the market, we went to St. Patrick’s Cathedral, a large and beautifully designed church just a short ride away, and then on to Flagstaff House, the former residence of Pakistan’s founder, Mohammed Ali Jinnah. The museum in Flagstaff House is fascinating as it holds various personal items which once belonged to the Jinnah family, and some of the rooms have even been arranged to show visitors how they were used.
Our last stop was Eduljee Dinshaw Road where the Karachi Port Trust Building and Imperial Customs House are located. Eduljee Dinshaw Road felt like another world with its fountains, wooden benches, clean paved roads, and large heritage-style street lamps. At the end of the road was also a small Hindu temple that we were unable to go into. Yet it was nice to know that it was there!
The Super Savari Express tour of Karachi can be an important experience for Pakistanis living in the country or abroad. While many hesitate to explore this large metropolis due to security concerns, the trip can show you a side of Karachi that you have never seen. It can help you appreciate and accept the many layers that make up the city’s rich heritage.
I now realize that by making an effort to understand Karachi, it can only help you improve your relationship with the city and its widely diverse population.
• Naveen Shakir is an interior decorator and author of The Design Souk, www.thedesignsouk.com, a blog about travel, interiors, shopping and home décor in the Eastern Province.
A tour of Karachi on the Super Savari Express
A tour of Karachi on the Super Savari Express
Exploring the history of Saudi Arabia’s ancient Dumat Al-Jandal
- Dumat Al-Jandal was strong and rich because of trade, says Saudi archeologist
RIYADH: In the heart of Al-Jouf, around 50km away from Sakaka, is the city of Dumat Al-Jandal — or, to give it its ancient name, “Adumato.”
Civilizations and kingdoms have thrived here for thousands of years, leaving behind traces of their existence carved onto walls and corners.
“It was a rainy period with rivers and forests, then it turned into a savanna, then into a period of little rain, then the habitation moved to other nearby sites such as the site of Al-Jamal and the site of Al-Rajajil,” explained Hussain Al-Khalifah, a Saudi archaeologist with over 30 years’ experience.
“After that, the Arabian Peninsula became a desert as we see it today. In ancient times, humans moved to sites with fertile soil and water resources. Therefore, Dumat Al-Jandal is one of the oldest cities inhabited around the second millennium BCE,” he said.
FASTFACT
Among the kingdoms and empires that tried to control Dumat Al-Jandal were the Assyrians, who made numerous attempts to control and capture the lands.
A trade road was created to exchange goods and link regions, and Dumat Al-Jandal was one of the significant points on this for people coming from the south of the Arabian Peninsula.
“It was an important point at the beginning of the land trade,” Al-Khalifah told Arab News.
“Dumat Al-Jandal was strong and rich because of trade. The people were protectors of the trade that passed by the city and, therefore, they took some of the goods in exchange for protecting merchants.”
Among the kingdoms and empires that tried to control Dumat Al-Jandal were the Assyrians, who made numerous attempts to control and capture the lands.
However, another kingdom was rising at the same time — the Arabian Qedarites, which not only prevented the Assyrians from taking Dumat Al-Jandal but also expanded their territory until they reached Palestine, Al-Khalifah said.
The Assyrians captured Adumato eventually, though the exact date is unknown.
They were known to document information on clay tablets, some of which can still be seen today at Dumat Al-Jandal. They are among the primary sources that mention Arabs, providing a description of the people of the city and one of their queens, Talkhunu, among others.
They also mention a rebel named Yabu who revolted against Ayatea, the king of Dumat Al-Jandal who was loyal to the Assyrians.
The Assyrian king, an advocate of justice who despised aggression and rebellion, sent warriors to aid Ayatea who caught Yabu and put him in chains.
The tablets also mention a popular souk which took place each year on the first day of spring.
Chill out Riyadh: From Wild West thrills to starlit nights
- These winter destinations reflect the capital’s evolving cultural, recreational landscape
RIYADH: Riyadh, the beating heart of Saudi Arabia, takes on a magical quality as the cooler months arrive, transforming into a playground of vibrant winter destinations.
Whether you are looking for an immersive Wild West experience, serene luxury surrounded by nature, or retro charm under the stars, the capital offers a diverse tapestry of escapes.
Locals and tourists alike are drawn to Southwest Village, The Groves, Dakkah Winter, and the retro-styled Ammariyah Motel, each providing a distinct blend of entertainment, relaxation, and culture.
On the outskirts of Riyadh lies Southwest Village, a meticulously designed attraction that brings the American Wild West to life. Wooden storefronts reminiscent of 19th-century frontier towns line the streets, while horse-drawn carriages and cowboy-clad performers transport visitors back in time.
From families with children to history buffs, the village has something for everyone. The centerpiece of the village is its 6D Cowboy Theater, where interactive shows captivate audiences of all ages.
Guests find themselves immersed in the drama and adventure of the Wild West, with state-of-the-art effects that bring every scene to life. “It’s like being part of a movie,” says Salem Al-Qahtani, a frequent visitor. “The energy, the performances, and the attention to detail are outstanding.”
By night, the village comes alive with the glow of warm lights illuminating its bustling Route 66-inspired street. Visitors can explore food stalls serving hearty barbecue dishes, shop for souvenirs in rustic boutiques, or simply take in the atmosphere.
Children can run through haystack play areas while their parents enjoy an evening of live performances and cowboy-themed music.
It’s like being part of a movie. The energy, the performan- ces, and the attention to detail are outstanding.
Salem Al-Qahtani, Southwest Village visitor
For those seeking a more sophisticated escape, The Groves in Al-Rafiah offers a tranquil yet luxurious retreat. Nestled among lush greenery and centered around the serene Groves Lake, this destination combines fine dining, boutique shopping, and carefully curated entertainment to create a memorable experience.
At the heart of The Groves is its iconic bridge, leading visitors to a 360-degree stage that regularly hosts live performances. The soft glow of lights reflected on the lake adds a touch of romance, making it a favorite among couples and families alike.
“We came for the performances, but it’s the atmosphere that keeps us here,” said Rania Banaser, who visited with her family. “Every corner feels like it’s been designed for relaxation and beauty.”
Culinary offerings at The Groves are varied: from Vida Vera’s fusion of Italian and Japanese flavors to Hawanem’s Middle Eastern-inspired dishes, every meal is an experience in itself.
For pet owners, the Luca Park dog area provides a safe space for the animals to play. “It’s rare to find a place that caters to everyone, including pets,” said Banaser.
Dakkah Winter has quickly become a favorite among families looking for a relaxing yet engaging destination. With its softly lit palm trees, boutique shops, and cozy food stalls, the atmosphere is warm and welcoming.
One of the most praised aspects of Dakkah Winter is the thoughtfully designed seating arrangements. Guests can choose between open-air settings under the starry skies or private tents surrounded by the warmth of fire pits, making it a perfect spot for intimate gatherings.
Families often gather around the crackling firewood, enjoying the serene environment and the crisp winter air.
“I think this place is really nice. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a place like this,” said Malak Hassan. “The price range is really good because it's not a typical spot where you can hang out. You can come with family and friends and it’s such an enjoyable place.”
Parents can unwind over a cup of steaming Arabic coffee while children enjoy the supervised play area, designed to keep them entertained for hours.
Sabah Al-Qahtani, one of the visitors, said: “I was surprised by the location. I liked the entrance and the sitting area and everything is amazing and I will definitely come again.”
For a dose of nostalgia mixed with adventure, Ammariyah Motel is the place to go. With its vibrant orange and red hues and 1950s-inspired decor, the motel offers visitors an engaging escape from the ordinary.
Upon arrival, guests are greeted by retro signage and colorful seating areas, setting the stage for an evening of fun. The activities at Ammariyah Motel cater to both the adventurous and the more relaxed.
Guests can test their skills at paddle tennis, or simply sit back under the stars. Dining is a highlight, with the pizza bar serving freshly baked pizzas and the outdoor grill offering gourmet burgers that draw praise from visitors.
From the immersive Wild West charm of Southwest Village to the upscale elegance of The Groves, the cozy retreat of Dakkah Winter, and the retro-inspired fun at Ammariyah Motel, a unique experience that captures the spirit of the season is offered to those visiting.
Saudi nature reserve unveils winter retreat near historic Laynah village
- Laynah Camp, designed for nature lovers and desert enthusiasts, is located adjacent to the Al-Dahna Desert
- The initiative is part of the Darb Zubaydah Winter festival, which aims to promote sustainable ecotourism
RAFHA: A winter season retreat close to the historic Laynah village in the Northern Borders Region is now open to holidaymakers.
Designed for nature lovers and desert enthusiasts, the wilderness retreat, Laynah Camp, was unveiled this week by the Imam Turki Bin Abdullah Royal Nature Reserve Development Authority as part of the Darb Zubaydah Winter festival, which aims to promote sustainable ecotourism and preserve the region’s cultural and historical heritage.
Laynah Camp “offers a serene atmosphere where wildlife beauty blends with the desert’s charm, providing visitors with inspiring and adventurous moments,” a Saudi Press Agency report said.
Set against the backdrop of the Al-Dahna Desert, the fully equipped tent accommodation provides breathtaking views of the natural surroundings. To add to the experience, activities such as exploratory trips and upscale camping are on offer, the report added.
Laynah village itself has its own attractions, particularly its ancient water wells, which makes it one of the most important historical sites in the Kingdom.
In a previous SPA report, researcher and heritage and antiquities expert Abdulrahman bin Mohammed Al-Tuwaijri was quoted as saying Laynah village was known to be one of the oldest settlements in the Arabian Peninsula.
“Located on the ancient trade route between Najd and Iraq, it has throughout history provided traveling caravan convoys with respite from harsh desert conditions,” the report said.
Saudi adventurer triumphant after crossing the Empty Quarter
- Badr Al-Shaibani wants to champion Saudi Arabia as a land where heritage, nature and adventure meet
JEDDAH: Badr Al-Shaibani, a Saudi Arabia adventurer and entrepreneur, has successfully completed a 600 km solo crossing of the largest sand desert in the world.
Al-Shaibani departed from Umm Hadid on Dec. 15, the site of a famous meteorite impact, where he set up his first camp. He walked for over 14 days and completed the journey on Dec. 29 at the breathtaking Umm Al-Hayesh Lake — one of the Empty Quarter’s natural wonders.
Speaking to Arab News after completing his adventure, 45-year-old Al-Shaibani said: “Crossing the Empty Quarter on foot is one of the most thrilling adventures I have ever done. It is a really special experience.
“I am so proud to be the first Saudi to traverse such a vast distance on foot, and I hope this journey inspires young Saudis to explore the nature of our country and spotlight Saudi Arabia’s diverse potential as a truly unique global tourist destination.”
His journey began by heading toward Tawil Al-Khatam, a challenging 200 km stretch that he traversed in five days at an average pace of 40 km per day.
Later on, Al-Shaibani continued toward Umm Al-Qurun, covering 90 km, before completing another 45 km to Bayd Al-Laha.
Being alone in the darkness, you explore something you wouldn’t normally see during your life. It was an amazing scene which makes you wonder how Allah created this part of the world.
Badr Al-Shaibani, Saudi adventurer
The third and final leg led him to the Al-Qa’d region near the Sabkha salt flats through a 60 km route. His expedition concluded at the breathtaking Umm Al-Hayesh Lake after trekking an additional 160 km.
From battling the weather to navigating endless dunes, this adventure pushed Al-Shaibani to the limit both physically and mentally. “I discovered the beauty and harshness of the Empty Quarter’s untamed wilderness, where there is a constant challenge, but the rewards are incredible.”
Speaking of challenges he faced, he said: “The first two days, I faced strong storms and winds called savi, and after a while the sun was also strong. Other than that, I am used to walking on ice or climbing mountains, but walking and climbing the soft sand was a big challenge for me. I really faced difficulty climbing the sand because it takes a lot of effort.”
Being so far from civilization exposed him to new experiences. “During the day I could see with my eyes. During the night, the exploration changes,” he said.
“Being alone in the darkness, you explore something you wouldn’t normally see during your life, it was an amazing scene which makes you wonder how Allah created this part of the world.”
He was happy to complete the adventure not only to add it to his achievements but also to document and capture the majestic beauty of the largest continuous sand desert in the world.
“The Empty Quarter, with its distinctive natural heritage and captivating beauty, stands as one of the Kingdom’s most remarkable yet largely undiscovered treasures,” he said.
“This destination has the potential to become a major attraction for tourists from home and abroad, especially with initiatives that promote desert tourism and encourage the exploration of the Kingdom’s unique natural environment.”
Al-Shaibani told Arab News he wants to inspire young people and champion Saudi Arabia as a land where heritage, nature and adventure converge.
Review: A visit to AlUla’s ancient kingdom ‘Wadi Al-Naam’
- Exploration was organized in groups of three riding in desert buggies to reach the hiking location
The Quest for the Ancient Kingdoms is a thrilling treasure hunt and adventure experience in AlUla’s Wadi Al-Naam, also known as the Valley of the Ostriches.
Before the journey begins, participants are provided with helmets, gloves, and hiking sticks, and are treated to a short lesson about the valley by the tour guide.
During our visit, the guide did a wonderful job making the group feel comfortable and translating the lesson from Arabic to English.
Exploration was organized in groups of three riding in desert buggies to reach the hiking location.
The buggy ride is a great chance to enjoy the iconic orange-hued rocks and mountains of AlUla.
At the first stop, participants can get a closer look at the fine details of inscriptions that tell the story of the Dadanites, the ancient residents of AlUla.
The 500-meter-long hike features various obstacles, like climbing up walls and steep steps, while offering breathtaking views of the unforgettable AlUla terrain.
Participants can choose between the Challenge Edition for adult adventurers or the Family Explorers version for a lighter experience. The treasure hunts are ideal for family or friend groups who want to get active during their trip to AlUla.
The quest concludes with a certificate of completion, refreshments, and a chance to interact with camels.
The best part of the experience is connecting with new individuals and putting your heads together to problem-solve as a team to win the quest.
Before going on this journey, please ensure you apply sunscreen, wear comfortable shoes, and stay hydrated as it will involve physical strength and energy to enjoy.
The Wadi Al-Naam Discovery tour costs SR200 ($53) per person and will be open until Feb. 27.
For more details, visit experiencealula.com.
