LONDON: In a warehouse at London's sprawling Heathrow Airport, a border officer pulls open a cardboard box he suspects contains contraband goods. Bingo — his instincts are rewarded.
The box is packed with beige and black sneakers that to the untrained eye look identical to the limited edition Adidas Yeezy Boost, designed by rap star Kanye West, which sold out within minutes of being released last year and now have a resale value many times their original retail price.
In the past five years, the Border Force, the policing command under Britain's Home Office charged with immigration and customs controls, has seized thousands of consignments at Heathrow alone, valued at around £100 million ($125 million), said Peter Herron, senior officer for specialist operations. "Anything a counterfeiter can counterfeit, they will."
Annual trade in fake products was worth $461 billion in 2013, around 2.5 percent of total global trade, according to Piotr Stryszowski, an economist with the Paris-based Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development. The money goes to organized crime, and helps fund terrorism and the trafficking of drugs, people, sex and wildlife, as well as the lavish lifestyles of its kingpins.
"It's the globalized illicit business of the 21st century," says Stryszowski, who laments it's not taken as seriously as other contraband, such as cocaine.
Consumers may see fakes as "fun" and feel clever to buy sunglasses or sneakers that look like the real thing but cost a fraction of the price.
The reality, however, is anything but fun for the workers, many of them children, who toil in appalling, often slave-like conditions in secret factories making fake products for gang bosses who, Stryszowski says, "have no ethics and no respect for the law."
It's this human cost that makes counterfeit goods one of the most insidiously dangerous criminal activities in the world today.
London-based intellectual property lawyer Mary Bagnall describes scenes of horror — children chained to sewing machines; people locked in underground factories in remote corners of China — that characterize an industry so lucrative yet so low-risk that some crime gangs are getting out of the drugs and people-trafficking businesses and into fakes.
"This makes more money for organized crime with less risk for them," she told The Associated Press, describing counterfeiting as part of a "massive global web" of criminality. "It's difficult to communicate to consumers why it is not a victimless crime."
"Consumers are used to the idea of fake handbags and even fashion counterfeits, (which) alone amount to some 2.6 billion pounds ($3.24 billion) worth of lost sales and I think an estimated 40,000 lost jobs annually; and that's just in one industry," she said.
The total annual cost to the European Union's fashion industry is 26 billion euros ($27.5 billion), she said.
Consumers can understand the perils of fake air bags for cars, or fake toys or electrical goods that "could explode in the face of a child," Bagnall said. But the fake goods industry goes much further than that.
"What consumers are probably less aware of is the danger of counterfeits in relation to other products — I'm talking now about pharmaceuticals, I'm talking about cosmetics," she said.
Ingredients found in fake cosmetics include chemicals that can cause disfigurement or worse. Medicines made on the cheap and outside regulation can cause serious health problems.
"We have tested cosmetics and what we've found is that they will be containing ingredients such as cadmium, arsenic, lead, to very dangerous levels. The worst one we found contained cyanide," said Matthew Cridland, trading standards manager for Newport, a city 200 kilometers (125 miles) northwest of London.
The vast majority of fakes, more than 81 percent, come from China and Hong Kong. The biggest victims are in the United States, Italy, France and Switzerland, and include designers and manufacturers of everything from high-end fashion clothing, footwear, jewelry and watches, to cosmetics, perfumes and medicines.
Britain is an important destination for counterfeiters, since its purchasing power is high and its consumers enjoy buying brand-name merchandise. Also, like many markets for fakes, the internet has seen illicit profits grow for organized crime while the risk of detection shrinks.
Matt Cope, head of Digital Technology Policy with Britain's Intellectual Property Office, suggests that undetected volumes of fake merchandise are on the rise.
"With the explosion of online shopping, everybody is very used to ordering from online platforms, and you can order direct from manufacturers, from source countries like China," he said. "It is harder to track a larger number of small parcels than a smaller number of large shipping containers."
Some internet sites clearly sell fake goods at a cheap rate and are easily targeted by trademark owners and their lawyers. Others offer fake goods at close to the legitimate retail price to dupe buyers into believing they are getting the real thing at a discount. Still others, Bagnall said, offer genuine products on a "grey market" that bypasses the brand owner to produce illegal profits.
Online marketplaces strive to keep fakes off their sites to protect their own brand integrity. EBay's global corporate affairs and communications manager Ryan Moore said the company works with "brand owners, retailers and law enforcement agencies to combat bad activity."
Governments, too, are working across borders to reduce, if not eliminate, the manufacture, distribution and sale of counterfeit goods, and to better inform consumers about the crime gangs, criminal operations and human misery it supports. The British government, for instance, stations a fake trade specialist at its Beijing embassy.
Nevertheless, reality prevails.
"It's a vast market and consumers always have an appetite for a bargain," said Cope. "Until they can easily identify whether those goods are genuine or not, it will be very difficult for them to make that choice."
Cope also says some people are going to buy fakes no matter what.
"It's something that will be very difficult to wipe out in its entirety, but we can make a dent," he said.
Fake fashion fuels vast illicit profits, sea of human misery
Fake fashion fuels vast illicit profits, sea of human misery
Bella Hadid guest stars on ‘Holland’s Next Top Model’ alongside her mother
DUBAI: US Dutch Palestinian model Bella Hadid shared a series of images from her experience as a guest judge on “Holland’s Next Top Model,” the reality series where her mother, Yolanda Hadid, serves as one of the judges.
The post features a carousel of photos and videos, including moments with her mother, the show’s judges and contestants, as well as behind-the-scenes shots from various photoshoots.
In the caption, the runway star expressed her excitement about her fragrance brand, Orebella, being featured on the episode, describing it as “a dream.”
She said: “Thank you @hollandsnexttopmodelnl for having me on as a guest judge! To have @orebella be shot, on a show so dear to my heart, in my most beautiful Holland, was a dream.”
Hadid also reflected on her admiration for her mother. “To watch my mama work and be a second mama to a new generation of young creative human beings is such a blessing to me! Things that my mom can teach, she wasn’t taught. It’s part of who she is,” she said. “Her talent, nurturing ability, maternal instincts, confidence in hard work and success, faith in people and love for fashion is what makes her so special, especially on a show like this. I am so proud of you, mama.”
The model described the transformative journey of the contestants on the show. “This was just an incredible experience to watch these young women and men push themselves but also grow to know themselves better than when they arrived,” she added. “I saw so much of myself in every one of them, and I am proud of each one for getting through a competition that I know for sure is mentally and physically exhausting.”
Hadid launched her brand in May with three fragrances: Salted Muse, Blooming Fire and Window2Soul.
In August, she expanded her collection with the launch of a new scent called Nightcap, described as a “warm and spicy” fragrance featuring notes of ginger, cardamom and vanilla.
For the launch, she hosted a party in West Hollywood, where she wore a dusty-pink gown with delicate embroidery and bow detail from Lebanese couturier Zuhair Murad.
Part-Saudi model Amira Al-Zuhair fronts Balmain’s Resort 2025 campaign
DUBAI: French Saudi model Amira Al-Zuhair this week shared pictures from her latest campaign with Balmain, showcasing the brand’s Resort 2025 collection.
In one of the images, Al-Zuhair donned a strapless denim mini dress paired with two matching denim handbags and calf-high black boots.
In the second image, she wore a black sequined two-piece outfit, featuring a crop top and a high-waisted skirt. The design incorporates gold and silver embellishments, with the top featuring the word “L’aime,” meaning “loves” in French. The setting, with the Eiffel Tower in the background, tied the look to the brand’s Parisian roots.
This is not Al-Zuhair’s first collaboration with Balmain. She previously walked for the brand during Paris Fashion Week in September.
She showcased a structured gray blazer over a classic black T-shirt, complemented by vibrant red suede over-the-knee boots that added a bold pop of color. Her ensemble was completed with a neutral-toned shoulder bag and a striking gold pendant necklace.
The model has been spending the week in Dubai and shared a moment on Instagram featuring an advertisement she spotted for Maison Alaia in Dubai Mall. “Casually shopping in Dubai Mall … and look who I found,” she said in the caption.
Al-Zuhair also shared a photo of herself having lunch with a friend at Al Mandaloun, a Lebanese restaurant in Dubai.
Kosas brings clean beauty to the Saudi market
DUBAI: Clean beauty brand Kosas has officially entered the Saudi market, offering a range of skincare-focused makeup products.
Founded by Sheena Zadeh, Kosas, now available at Sephora Middle East, prioritizes skin-nourishing ingredients, a mission the founder feels deeply resonates with the Saudi market.
“Saudi Arabia is such a vibrant, emerging market with a rich beauty culture,” Zadeh told Arab News, adding that over the years, she has seen a growing demand from the Middle East for clean, high-performance beauty products. “Saudi Arabia is at the forefront of this trend,” she said.
“For us, it’s about more than just expansion; it’s about connecting with a culture that values authenticity, quality and a holistic approach to beauty,” Zadeh said.
In preparation for its Saudi debut, Kosas chose a range of products aligned with local beauty needs. “We curated our lineup with universal favorites and regional needs in mind,” Zadeh said.
This lineup includes bestsellers such as the Revealer Concealer, the Cloud Set Baked setting powder, and the BB Burst Tinted gel cream moisturizer.
“(The setting powder) helps achieve that lasting, natural matte finish ideal for the warm climate,” Zadeh said, adding that the tinted moisturizer is “perfect for those looking for lightweight hydration with coverage.”
Kosas also plans to connect with the Saudi community by staging workshops and events focused on clean beauty and skin health.
“We’re very committed to education and empowerment in the beauty space … we believe that beauty should feel effortless and enjoyable, so our educational initiatives will focus on simple, effective ways to incorporate Kosas into daily routines. We’re really excited about this,” Zadeh said.
Zadeh said her own roots influenced Kosas’s mission: “I’m Middle Eastern myself and I’ve always felt deeply connected to the region’s beauty philosophy.
“At its core, Kosas has a holistic and layered approach that aligns with the depth and tradition of Middle Eastern beauty philosophies,” she added. “Kosas was born from a deep passion for clean beauty that’s effective, fun, and makes people feel good in their own skin. Our journey started with a desire to create makeup that doesn’t just sit on the skin but works with it.”
Lavish and Johara Global collaborate to celebrate Saudi Culture
- Lavish founders Nada Altobaishi and Hala Alsharekh said in a statement: “Lavish Concept Store is more than just a destination for luxury and style; it is a platform where innovation, culture, and creativity thrive
LONDON: Lavish Concept Store and Johara Global on Thursday joined forces to host an event at the Lavish pop-up in The Music Room, Mayfair, London, celebrating the timeless beauty and rich traditions of Saudi culture.
Lavish Concept Store aims to foster creativity and innovation, while Johara Global is a platform to support female leaders and enable them to fulfil their potential.
In line with Saudi Vision 2030, the event offered an immersive cultural experience, spotlighting the heritage and artistry of Saudi Arabia through a blend of fashion, art and cuisine.
A fashion show featuring traditional Saudi costumes showed off the intricate craftsmanship and rich heritage of the region.
Lavish founders Nada Altobaishi and Hala Alsharekh said in a statement: “Lavish Concept Store is more than just a destination for luxury and style; it is a platform where innovation, culture, and creativity thrive.
“We are committed to curating exclusive, high-quality products while showcasing the work of emerging artists and artisans.
“Our vision is to redefine the retail experience by blending timeless elegance with cutting-edge trends, all while championing artistic expression and cultural diversity. At Lavish, we strive to inspire confidence and elevate everyday living through the fusion of luxury, culture, and innovation.”
Katie Partridge, founder and chairwoman of Johara Global, and Intisar Alyamani, CEO of Johara Global said in a statement: “Johara Global was set up with a mission to bridge the east-west gap and foster the leadership of women through our four main pillars. Collaborations like these create a lasting and powerful impact on the community. We are delighted to join forces to achieve this.”
Celebrity-loved jeweler Azza Fahmy has ‘a strong connection’ with Saudi Arabia
- The CEO and head of design at the Egyptian jewelry house their mother founded discuss their new flagship store in Riyadh
- ‘Every time she goes, she has a strong connection there,’ the head of design said of Azza Fahmy’s trips to Saudi Arabia
DUBAI: Egyptian entrepreneur and jewelry designer Azza Fahmy is celebrated for crafting pieces that weave cultural stories into wearable art, resonating with those who appreciate depth and meaning in every design.
Fahmy’s signature gold-and-silver pieces have long been embraced by Egypt’s top entertainers, including the late actress and singer Soad Hosny and celebrated actress Yousra.
Her jewelry has also garnered an impressive international following, including A-list stars like actors Julia Roberts, Shailene Woodley, Naomi Watts, and Vanessa Hudgens, and singers Joss Stone and Rihanna.
The brand has also forged a particularly strong connection with Saudi customers, who value the blend of tradition and modernity it offers. It recently expanded its reach with the opening of a flagship store in Riyadh, catering to a growing Saudi clientele.
Fahmy’s daughters — CEO Fatma Ghaly and head of design Amina Ghaly — say the new outlet is the result of years spent cultivating relationships with Saudi clients.
“The opening of our flagship store in Riyadh marks a significant milestone for Azza Fahmy,” Fatma tells Arab News. “Throughout the years, we’ve had the privilege of cultivating meaningful relationships with our Saudi clientele, connecting through online platforms, exhibitions, and pop-ups, all while experiencing a growing demand for our jewelry.”
For Amina, the store is a continuation of her mother’s decades-long connection to Saudi Arabia, where she has often been inspired by the culture, architecture and landscapes.
“Every time she goes, she has a strong connection there,” Amina says. “There is the architectural aspect that we have drawn inspiration from, (but also the culture): for our collection ‘Ahla Ma Ghanaho Al-Arab,’ we were inspired by (Saudi singer and composer) Abdul Majeed Abdullah, so it’s really varied over the years.
“We draw inspiration not from one thing or the other. It is a question of how the inspiration serves the collection, and I feel like, with Saudi Arabia, the more we keep going there, the more we will continue to be inspired,” she adds.
Fatma explains that this made opening a permanent store in Saudi Arabia feel like the right move, especially as the Kingdom’s luxury market shows a growing interest in heritage-inspired brands.
“Our new store is a testament to our commitment to the Saudi market, offering a space that showcases our craftsmanship and invites visitors to explore the beauty and stories behind our pieces,” she says.
According to Fatma, Saudi Arabia’s luxury market has transformed in recent years. Clients increasingly seek brands that emphasize authenticity, cultural stories and craftsmanship.
“The Saudi consumer has long been sophisticated and well-traveled, but in recent years Saudi Arabia’s luxury market has experienced remarkable growth and evolution, especially for heritage-driven brands like Azza Fahmy. There has been a significant shift towards valuing craftsmanship, cultural narratives, and authenticity in luxury goods,” she explains.
For many Saudi clients, jewelry that reflects their identity and holds personal meaning is highly sought after, making Azza Fahmy’s storytelling-focused designs especially appealing.
Fatma and Amina are both enthusiastic about connecting with Saudi’s younger generation, who are attracted to brands that combine tradition with innovation.
“Our designs resonate with this dynamic audience by blending contemporary aesthetics with traditional motifs,” Fatma says. “We embrace innovation in our processes and materials, ensuring that our jewelry appeals to a modern sensibility while remaining rooted in cultural heritage.
“This approach not only attracts younger consumers but also fosters a deeper connection to their identity, allowing them to wear pieces that are both stylish and meaningful,” she continues.
Amina says that today’s luxury market is increasingly global, shaped more by shared interests than regional preferences. “As brands, we should not segment by region but rather by character,” she says. “The internet and social media has made the world a very small place. So, you find women in Saudi who, for instance, are very interested in travel and seek brands they can connect with on a personal level. Someone in London, someone in Japan, someone in Brazil could have the same interest. These are character traits, more than regional traits.”
However, Amina notes that there is a unique regional connection when it comes to Arabic calligraphy and poetry.
“I feel that women from the Arab region are very drawn towards the Arabic language, because rather than me translating it for them and trying to give them the gist of what it means, they can read and recognize it and connect with it themselves,” she says.
Beyond the Middle East, Azza Fahmy’s collections with Arabic calligraphy have found success in places including the UK, where clients often appreciate the aesthetic and personal significance of the script.
“When we were approaching the British market, we were under the false impression — from whatever market survey that we did at the time — of ‘They do not understand it, and they will not understand it, so they will not be able to connect.’ We were very happily surprised to learn that our number one-performing collection, in our Burlington Arcade boutique in London, is the calligraphy collection,” Amina says. “It’s because they are carrying it as their own little secret. The client comes and picks up something like, for instance, the eternity ring inspired by Umm Kalthoum, and she takes it as ‘I’m the only one that understands what it says.’”
The Riyadh store stocks many of the brand’s high jewelry pieces. Among Amina’s personal favorites, she says, is the “Scripts of Love” bangle, adorned with emeralds and calligraphy.
“The combination of stones, poetry, and calligraphy creates a piece that captures attention without overshadowing any element,” she says.
She also highlighted the delicate “Crescent Filigree” earrings with tanzanite — a design that showcases the brand’s expertise in filigree craftsmanship.
Azza Fahmy’s commitment to the empowerment of women is also in line with Saudi Arabia’s Vision 2030, which encourages increased female participation in the workforce and leadership roles.
Fatma explains that the brand’s jewelry aims to reflect individuality and heritage — resonating with modern Saudi women who appreciate both cultural pride and self-expression.
“As a company led by women — with women in key roles across all levels of management — empowering women is simply part of our DNA,” she says. “It is not something we ‘strive for.’ It comes naturally to us.”
