Is Dubai ready for its own Michelin Guide?

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Updated 14 March 2017
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Is Dubai ready for its own Michelin Guide?

Dubai is a foodie’s paradise. From delectable fine dining to scrumptious street-food offerings, you can eat your way around the city and still find space for dessert. So what is missing? A Michelin Guide of course.
Rumors have been swirling that the city is set to get its very own Michelin rating system, sparked by comments made by Michael Ellis, international director of Michelin Guides, at the Global Restaurant Investment Forum last year. Ellis said his company was on its way to creating a guide specifically for Dubai, but remained tight-lipped on the details.
Michelin stars are awarded to restaurants of outstanding quality in what is known as the Michelin Red Guide, with one star awarded to restaurants with very good cooking in their category, two stars for restaurants with excellent cooking, and the coveted three stars going to restaurants with exceptional cuisine. Michelin awards and retracts stars annually based on visits by their anonymous inspectors, whose grading methodology is a closely guarded secret.
The prestigious French guide actually began as a handy guidebook for Michelin tire customers in France in 1900. It was the brainchild of the Michelin brothers, who sought to “provide motorists traveling through France with all the useful information to supply their automobile, to fix it, where to sleep and eat, and which means exist to communicate, by mail, telegraph or telephone,” according to Christie’s auction house, which put a set of guides under the hammer in 2016.
Fast forward to the 21st century, and food buffs the world over may have spurted out their soup in shock when two street-food hawkers in Singapore became the world’s first such eateries to gain Michelin stars. Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice And Noodle, and fellow street-food stand Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodles, were awarded one star each in the Michelin Guide Singapore.
The push eastward is relatively recent, as until 2006 Michelin’s country guides only covered Europe. The hot question now is whether the cultural and culinary melting pot of Dubai is next on the list. It is home to eateries headed by a slew of Michelin-star chefs, but the city is yet to boast a restaurant with a sparkling star of its own as they can only be awarded in places where Michelin Red Guides are published.
Although Michelin declined comment, telling Arab News they do not remark on potential development strategy, one Dubai-based restaurant critic and writer thinks the time has come for the city to be recognized for its food chops.
“The food and beverage industry in Dubai has well and truly come of age in the last two years or so. There have been noises about how vibrant the restaurant scene here is for a long time, but it’s only now that it has acquired a gravitas that’s worthy of recognition by the likes of Michelin,” Sudeshna Ghosh told Arab News.
Ghosh points to the emergence of original, high-quality, home-grown concepts, and a shift away from restaurants being run by hotels, as reasons behind the uptick in excitement over the local food scene. “However,” she cautioned, “it’s important to note that it’s early days, and it will take some time before there’s a critical mass of restaurants that offer a Michelin-quality experience comparable to, say, New York or Paris.”
The industry insider tips her head to several Dubai-based restaurants that she thinks are strong contenders for a star. “Play, and the sister venue The Experience, are definitely strong contenders. Zuma, the only venue on the World’s 50 Best list, is also a definite. Apart from that, I’d say some that are worth looking into are Tresind/Carnival by Tresind; Hakkasan; La Petite Maison; Novikov; and Aseelah, which serves up Emirati food.”
Meals or wheels? The relationship between the tire company and the guide
You would be surprised to find out that the renowned Michelin restaurant guide actually started as a road atlas for Michelin tire customers in France in 1900. At the time, road trippers were in need of a guide that could point out the most appealing restaurants on their route, and tire manufacturer Michelin was happy to oblige.
The first edition saw almost 35,000 copies printed, and contained useful information for motorists, including a list of hotels, groceries, bakeries, hardware stores and instructions on how to fix and change tires.
In 1931, ratings featured the current system of three stars for the first time, with the definitions becoming clear and definitive in 1933. One star indicated a good place to stop on your journey, and was awarded to a very good restaurant in its category. Two stars meant excellent cuisine, indicating dishes of outstanding quality worth a detour. Three stars were awarded to a restaurant worth a special journey, where diners could expect to eat very well.
Although production of the guide was suspended during both world wars, the 1939 edition of the guide was reprinted by the US military in 1943, just before the June 6 invasion of Normandy the following year, as it was deemed the most up-to-date map available to the armed forces.
Michelin-starred chefs’ restaurants that Arab News recommends
• Tom Aikens’ Pots, Pans and Boards

More of a casual and rustic spot, this eatery, located in The Beach @ JBR, has a good selection of meat, fish and chicken options that arrive in, you guessed it, pots, pans and boards.

 

A #hearty #breakfast before anything else Thank you for sharing this awesome snap @celinxoxong

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• Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen
This restaurant at Atlantis, The Palm offers British cuisine with a relaxed, family friendly vibe.

 

Pop in and see for yourself who is the real @gordonramsayrestaurants #yorkieoff winner ... #teambsk @gordongram #yorkshirepuddingday

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• Yannick Alleno’s Stay
Although this is on the fancier end, with a strict dress code and no children under the age of 9 allowed, the food is more than enough to delight you at this One & Only The Palm eatery.


• Jason Atherton’s Marina Social
Marina Social dubs itself a celebrator of “de-formalized dining,” and offers a contemporary British-Mediterranean menu. It is located in the InterContinental Dubai Marina.

• Virgilio Martinez’s Lima
Peruvian chef Martinez replicated his famed restaurant in London in the heat of Dubai in the City Walk complex, and is credited with bringing the cuisine to the world’s attention.

• Gary Rhodes’ Rhodes W1
Rhodes was awarded a Michelin star for a restaurant in London in 1996, and has since brought his brand of British cooking to Dubai’s Grosvenor House.


• The Croft by Darren Velvick
The Croft was inspired by Velvick’s own childhood upbringing in a rural country village and is the home of great English cuisine in Dubai.

life.style@arabnews.com

 


Where We Are Going Today: ‘Layali Al Iraq’ in Jeddah

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Updated 14 June 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: ‘Layali Al Iraq’ in Jeddah

  • Layali Al Iraq has an enclosed grilling room where the signature grilled carp (shabout) is cooked upright over a fire

Layali Al Iraq restaurant in Jeddah offers authentic Iraqi cuisine in a traditional setting.

The restaurant’s spacious interiors feature classic Iraqi elements including mashrabiya woodwork, stone walls, murals, and a central fountain. Soft Iraqi music adds to the calm atmosphere.

While browsing the menu, guests are offered complimentary lentil soup, lemon slices, and saj bread — a nice touch.

I tried the tabbouleh, Mosuli-style kibbeh, and a cold mezze platter. The tabbouleh was large — enough for several people — and all the ingredients were fresh and flavorsome.

Layali Al Iraq has an enclosed grilling room where the signature grilled carp (shabout) is cooked upright over a fire. I ordered a 1 kg carp, which arrived nicely crisped and served with fresh vegetables.

The lamb shoulder came with both plain and tomato-based rice, plus pistachio-stuffed kebabs — hearty and well-seasoned.

To finish, traditional Iraqi tea istikanah is served in authentic cups by staff in traditional dress.

Service was quick, and prices are reasonable given the portion sizes. Visit @layali_al.iraq_restaurant on Instagram for more information.

 


Where We Are Going Today: ‘The Door’ restaurant in Riyadh

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Updated 13 June 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: ‘The Door’ restaurant in Riyadh

  • Scallops and an accompanying sauce were also good, and the smoked baba ghanouj was particularly memorable

The Door restaurant in Riyadh has a cozy atmosphere that enhances the overall dining experience for food lovers.

We started with the lemon garlic pasta, which was bursting with flavor. A beef burger, topped with caramelized onion, was delicious, but the large serving may be too much for some. Fried cauliflower with sauce is also a standout dish.

We also tried the duck pate, which was elegantly served on a wooden spoon, and garnished with pistachios and raspberry preserves — a true treat.

Scallops and an accompanying sauce were also good, and the smoked baba ghanouj was particularly memorable.

The glazed shrimp was soft and perfectly cooked, although some may find the sauce a bit overpowering. However, the mushroom steak that I ordered medium-well arrived well done, and the chicken skewers we tried were not very impressive.

Pricing is reasonable. We spent only SR109 (roughly $29) for two. Service is excellent, with meals arriving within minutes, and the staff are friendly and attentive.

The Door is a small venue with limited seating, so booking is essential. The casual and relaxed ambiance makes it an ideal spot to enjoy a good meal. 

 


Recipes for Success: Chef Davisha Burrowes offers advice and a tasty recipe  

Updated 13 June 2025
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Recipes for Success: Chef Davisha Burrowes offers advice and a tasty recipe  

RIYADH: The Mediterranean dining venue The Lighthouse, founded in the UAE, recently opened its first Saudi outpost in Riyadh’s Diplomatic Quarter. 

“I like to describe the Lighthouse menu as a celebration of fresh and seasonal ingredients that represent the Mediterranean culturally as a whole,” says its executive chef Davisha Burrowes. “I think it’s a perfect balance between East and West.” 

Burrowes — who grew up in Barbados — caught the culinary bug early. 

“I was around nine years old when I started cooking,” she says. “And that just grew around the age of 14 or 15. I did a few competitions in Barbados, and from there, I took my degree in culinary arts, worked around the world in different cuisines, then finally landed with the Lighthouse.” 

The Lighthouse recently opened its first Saudi outpost in Riyadh’s Diplomatic Quarter. (Supplied)

When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?  

I think all young chefs tend to seek perfection. I was definitely overthinking the little things. And when you overthink, you tend to overcomplicate and overseason. and throughout the years, with growth from maturing as a chef, I will tell anyone that lasts this morning. 

What’s your top tip for amateur chefs? 

Experiment. Don’t be afraid to try new things — new flavors, new blends. Go with the flow a little bit, and don’t be so hard on yourself. Some of the best recipes, by a lot of chefs around the world, have been born through mistakes. 

What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish? And why? 

Probably a fresh squeeze of lemon. It brightens, it lifts, it cuts through very rich flavors as well. But personally, I think the best ingredient you can put in a dish is love, cooking with your heart, with your passion, just enjoying it and giving respect to each ingredient, whether it’s something as humble as an onion or a piece of foie gras. 

When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food? 

It depends. If I go to somewhere casual, you know, I take it for what it is. I manage my expectations. I also work within hospitality, so I know there can be certain challenges within the back of house and within the operation. But if I’m going somewhere where I have high expectations, then I hold them to a certain level. 

The Lighthouse was founded in the UAE. (Supplied)

What’s your favorite cuisine? 

I love Japanese cuisine. I worked in Japanese cuisine for two years, so I love a good selection of Nigiri platter. It needs precision, but it’s very, very simple.   

What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home? 

I love cooking spaghetti carbonara. It has very few ingredients, it takes minimal effort, but it also has its intricacies. 

What’s your favorite dish to cook?   

If time’s not a factor, then it’s a barbecue. Going back to my roots, I’m from the Caribbean, and we do a lot of barbecue — it’s always summer in the Caribbean, so we do a lot of cooking outdoors. So, definitely a barbecue feast or a grazing plate.   

What customer behavior most annoys you?  

I wouldn’t say it necessarily “annoys” me, but I do get a little disappointed when some ingredients are swapped out of dishes — especially ingredients that are essential to the harmony of the dish. As chefs, we spend a lot of time curating dishes, making sure the flavors are balanced, so when ingredients are swapped out, it just changes the whole experience that we’re trying to offer. 

As a leader, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laid back?   

I prefer to inspire rather than intimidate. I’m very hands-on in the kitchen. I like to lead by example. I think that as a chef — or as a leader in any field — it’s important that the team see you do it, so they can have the encouragement to do it on their own. 

Chef Davisha’s charred aubergine with labneh and hot honey harissa 

(Serves 2) 

Ingredients: 

 For the Charred Aubergine:  

1 large eggplant (aubergine)  

1 tbsp olive oil  

2 tbsp labneh (or see Labneh Mix below)  

1 tbsp hot honey harissa (see Hot Honey Harissa below)  

1 tsp toasted pine nuts  

A few fresh chives, finely chopped  

Salt and pepper to taste  

For the Labneh Mix (optional, for a more flavorful labneh):  

60g labneh  

0g Greek yogurt  

Pinch of table salt  

1 tsp fresh lemon juice  

For the Hot Honey Harissa:  

20g butter  

10g olive oil  

3g harissa paste (or more for extra heat)  

1g crushed chili flakes  

5g smoked paprika  

10g honey  

INSTRUCTIONS: 

Char the Aubergine: Preheat a grill pan or BBQ to high heat. Brush the aubergine halves with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.  

Place cut-side down on the hot grill and cook until charred and softened (about 6-8 minutes per side). For a true smoky flavor, roast directly over a gas flame or in a preheated oven at 220°C for 20 minutes.  

Prepare the Labneh Mix (optional): In a bowl, whisk together labneh, Greek yogurt, salt, and lemon juice. Adjust seasoning to taste.  

Make Hot Honey Harissa: In a small saucepan, melt the butter and olive oil over medium heat.  

Add the harissa paste, chili flakes, smoked paprika, and honey. Stir well and cook for 2 minutes until fragrant. Remove from heat.  

Assemble: Place the charred aubergine on a serving plate. Dollop with labneh (or labneh mix), drizzle generously with hot honey harissa, and scatter toasted pine nuts and chopped chives on top. 

At-home tips  

Labneh Substitute: If you don’t have labneh, use thick Greek yogurt, strained through a cheesecloth or coffee filter for a few hours to mimic labneh’s rich texture.  

Char at Home: If you don’t have a grill, broil the aubergine in your oven or cook it in a cast-iron pan to achieve a similar smoky effect.  

Harissa Hack: No harissa paste? Mix 1 tbsp tomato paste with 1 tsp chili flakes, ½ tsp cumin, and a pinch of smoked paprika for a quick substitute.  

Honey Choices: Use mild, floral honey for a more balanced sauce or a spicy honey to really turn up the heat. 


Where We Are Going Today: Korean Palace Restaurant in Riyadh

Updated 09 June 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: Korean Palace Restaurant in Riyadh

  • The cheese tteokbokki came bubbling in a hot stone bowl, spicy and rich, with gooey cheese melting into the sweet chili sauce

Tucked away on Al-Takhassusi Street, Korean Palace is one of Riyadh’s oldest spots for Korean cuisine, and a nostalgic throwback for those who value flavor over flash.

It’s visibly dated, with worn interiors and a lingering scent that suggests it could benefit from a deep renovation. Still, what it lacks in ambiance, it more than makes up for in taste.

We started with complimentary Korean sides, pickled radish, kimchi, and marinated greens, a generous and flavorful tradition that sets the tone. Then came a table full of classics, each arriving surprisingly fast.

The highlight of the evening? The transparent glass noodles, chewy, perfectly seasoned, and bursting with umami. This was hands down the best dish, and one I’d return for.

The cheese tteokbokki came bubbling in a hot stone bowl, spicy and rich, with gooey cheese melting into the sweet chili sauce.

We also ordered the bibimbap, served hot with colorful vegetables and beef, and the beef sizzling plate, which was tender and satisfying.

The dumplings, delicately wrapped in cabbage leaves, were comforting but mild. The only miss was the tofu soup, which fell flat in flavor and didn’t deliver the depth I expected.

Despite the outdated setting, the overall food quality was impressive. It’s a place that reminds you why people still queue up for spots like this, for food that feels home-cooked, unapologetically traditional, and generously portioned.

Don’t come expecting a trendy hangout. Come for hearty Korean food that gets the job done.

 


Where We Are Going Today: Past Nine cafe

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Updated 06 June 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: Past Nine cafe

  • Past Nine cafe is highly recommended for its cozy vibe, delicious coffee and engaging events

Nestled in the Al-Nahdha district of Jeddah, Past Nine cafe has quickly become a local favorite, combining great food, excellent coffee and a vibrant but easygoing atmosphere.

One of the standout features of Past Nine is its diverse menu. The hibiscus juice is refreshingly tangy and perfect for a hot day, while the waffles are crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside.

I had a V60 coffee and a Matilda cake, which was a delightful combination.

While the laid-back vibe — including lots of comfy couches — is ideal for those working remotely, the cafe also hosts regular performances by local bands, enhancing its appeal as a social hub.

There are also board game nights featuring established favorites like Jenga and Monopoly, while those who like their fun a little more high-tech can take advantage of the PS5 consoles.

Upstairs is a dedicated area for smokers.

Past Nine cafe is highly recommended for its cozy vibe, delicious coffee and engaging events. It also offers discounts for occasions like Founding Day and National Day.

If you’re looking for a place to relax, work or enjoy some live music, this place is definitely worth a visit.