For many years, “Cairo City of Sand,” an enlightened stroll across the illusive layers of Cairo, exquisitely written by Maria Golia, has been my favorite book about the city. Other books pale in comparison and generally fail to convey the truth about this city.
And then we come to “Cairo Inside Out” recently published by The American University in Cairo Press. I searched for the time when I could slip in between the pages and get “inside” Cairo…
Trevor Naylor takes us in the late afternoon to the Cafe Riche, an iconic literary cafe in downtown Cairo. There is something special about those moments between day and night, just before dusk. “I wondered if it would be possible to write a book that captured that mood and light,” Naylor said.
“Cairo Inside Out” is unlike any other book. It is not a travel book, nor a guide, nor a memoir, and neither is it a history book nor a coffee-table book. It attempts to grasp what the Spanish call “el no se que” and the French, “je ne sais quoi” — expressions which have no exact equivalent in English.
“Cairo Inside Out” is a reflection on Cairo
; it exudes a certain something, indefinable, inexplicable, an elusive quality which is part of the city’s fabric. Vibrant, noisy, hectic, Cairo resembles a giant puzzle whose pieces are the Pyramids, Old Cairo, Khan Al-Khalili, Zamalek, Maadi, to name but a few, added on throughout the centuries.
In Cairo, however, everything begins with the Nile. Cairo would not be Cairo without the Nile. It draws its strength, vitality and longevity from this powerful river, a source of life and an inspiration to writers, poets and artists. But the Nile is not as accessible as one might expect.
“Unlike many urban riverbanks, the edge of the Nile is not made up of public spaces reserved for the people, but rather of areas that are owned, hidden, or simply locked up behind a wall for much of its passage through Cairo.”
The easiest way to get close to the Nile is to enjoy a ride on a felucca, especially at sunset when the sky unrolls a changing palette of colors from golden yellow to streams of tangerine tinged with crimson. Far from the crowded streets, carried away by a gentle breeze, a felucca ride is a wonderful break from the pressures of everyday life.
The Nile has a magical effect whenever you see it: It refreshes you in the summer’s scorching heat; it calms you when you are helplessly stuck in a traffic jam; it boosts your energy after a hectic day and a mere glimpse of its shimmering waters can wash away the worries and weariness of a tiresome day.
Zamalek, situated on Gezira Island, is one of the most beautiful residential and commercial areas of Cairo with its quaint hotels, antique shops, art galleries, boutiques, cafes and restaurants. French and Italian architects designed beautiful art deco style buildings at the beginning of the 20th century and Zamalek exudes a more intimate atmosphere than downtown Cairo. Zamalek is known as Paris by the Nile although it is difficult to imagine what this distinct part of the city once looked like.
After the Khedive, Ismail Pasha, visited the Exposition Universelle held in the French capital in 1867, he returned to Cairo with the firm intention of building a downtown area imitating the quarters of Paris. Naylor discovered, while reading an old Baedeker’s guidebook of 1908, that the Khedive had offered plots of land in an area stretching from Azbakiya to Abdin Palace westward to the Nile to “anyone who would undertake to build on each a house worth at least 30,000 francs within eighteen months.”
Downtown Cairo has nothing to envy in Zamalek. It has a lovely boutique hotel, Talisman, and the quaint Windsor Hotel where time has stood still: “The period feel one enjoys in the famous barrel bar and breakfast room are as close as you can get to being in authentic colonial Cairo… However, if you expect speedy service, lightning-fast Wi-Fi and a latte, then you should skip this treat… The key to the Windsor is its silence… From your secluded perch, you can sit and simply observe life. This is a soothing way to pass the time of day and ponder the glorious ever-changing light,” Naylor wrote.
I have also sadly noticed the disappearance of bookshops in Downtown Cairo. Younger generations are not reading as much and when they do, they read differently; they are far less attracted to physical books and prefer to read on their phones or their iPads. But I do not believe that the dwindling number of expert booksellers is “one of the reasons why downtown is losing its cultural appeal to the European traveler.” Downtown still has a lot to offer and the interest and attractions are there but what has really affected the downtown area is the relocation of the American University to New Cairo. The American University in Cairo (AUC) brought tremendous life to this part of the city. Nowadays, all the area surrounding the main campus no longer brims with activity. It feels dead.
“Felfela” close to Tahrir Square is still a favorite restaurant with visitors and tourists. Its wild yet picturesque décor blends with the traditional Egyptian food that is served, especially “foul” and “taamiyyah.” It is, as Naylor said, “a tourist trap worth falling into.”
From one page to another, we move on to medieval Cairo, which is mostly intact. The contrast between past and present pervades the atmosphere; you see men wearing the same clothes and eating the same food as their ancestors and yet they are talking on a smart phone.
Just opposite the Bab Zuwayla, one of the last remaining gates to the city, lies the charming Shari Al-Khayamiya known as the Street of the Tentmakers. Built in 1650, it is the only covered market left in medieval Cairo. This street specializes in making appliqué quilts, cushions and wall hangings for tourists, but in the past it provided the cloth for the tents (hence its name), particularly for those making the pilgrimage to Makkah.
Khan Al-Khalili is a world unto itself. It is not just a place to shop; you can visit old mosques, explore alleyways, walk through Shari Al-Muiz, nicknamed the “cultural spine of historic Cairo,” observe people, and enjoy the atmosphere of the Fishawy Cafe, another tourist trap that is well worth it, and savor a local pancake — “fatir” — at Egyptian Pancakes.
Close by, Al-Azhar Park offers a desperately needed oasis of greenery. Funded by the Aga Khan Foundation for Culture, this park with its beautifully kept gardens full of surprisingly beautiful sculptures, its pavilions and a sumptuous Moorish style restaurant, is a resounding success. “Al-Azhar Park is proof that with determination, cooperation, and vision anything can be turned around,” Naylor wrote.
This unconventional visit to Cairo ends where it all started: At the Pyramids. Naylor urges everyone to take a camel ride and visit the Red Pyramid near Dahshur. It is less crowded and easier to enter the chamber and observe the internal structure of the first pyramids.
The last pictures feature the legendary Mena House Hotel, which offers stunning views of the Pyramids, particularly from the restaurant. “Egypt has much to offer and in some places retains its history with style and aplomb. The Mena House has all this and more…” Naylor concludes.
This book takes you to the heart of Cairo. Naylor conveys in words and pictures the moods and light of a city steeped in history, a city that is both eternal and ever changing.
The text is superb and the photographs “talk.” What a wonderful book this is. But wonderful just does not seem good enough.
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Book Review: Cairo of yesteryear can still be found
Book Review: Cairo of yesteryear can still be found
What We Are Reading Today: The Disappearing Act
Author: Florence de Changy
Malaysia Airlines Flight 370, carrying 239 passengers, disappeared into the night, never to be seen or heard from again.
Writing for Le Monde in the days and months after the plane’s disappearance, journalist Florence de Changy closely documented the chaotic international investigation that followed, uncovering more questions than answers.
The mystery, until now, is riddled with inconsistencies, contradictions and a lack of basic communication between authorities.
De Changy draws together countless eyewitness testimonies, press releases, independent investigative reports and expert opinion, to offer an eloquent and deeply unnerving narrative of what happened to the missing aircraft.
REVIEW: ‘S.T.A.L.K.E.R. 2: Heart of Chornobyl’ tells a story of resilience and survival
LONDON: “S.T.A.L.K.E.R. 2: Heart of Chornobyl,” developed by Ukrainian studio GSC Game World, stands as both a gripping survival adventure and a reflection of real-world resistance in the face of adversity.
The game’s development faced significant challenges, with the studio partially relocating to the Czech Republic due to the ongoing conflict in Ukraine. This struggle has imbued the game with poignant cultural references and an atmosphere shaped by the harsh realities of its creators’ circumstances.
Players assume the role of Skif, a Ukrainian Marine Corps veteran drawn into the “Zone,” a dystopian take on the Chernobyl exclusion zone. In this alternate universe, the infamous nuclear disaster unleashed not only radiation but also space-time anomalies and a host of mutated threats.
The Zone is merciless, and so is the gameplay. Stalkers — explorers of this treacherous area — must navigate its dangers in pursuit of adventure, profit or ideology. The game emphasizes survival, with a steep learning curve that demands careful planning. From radiation and traps to scarce resources and malfunctioning weapons, every step is fraught with danger. Deaths are frequent and the game tracks your fatalities, adding to the sense of vulnerability.
The game shines in its atmospheric design and mechanics. The 64 sq. km open-world setting is a stunning yet haunting playground for chaos. Weapon handling is top notch, and the enemy AI is intelligent and challenging. The various human factions and mutant creatures add layers of unpredictability to the experience, while side missions pile up in classic open-world fashion.
However, the game is not without its flaws. Some elements feel restrictive, limiting creativity in problem-solving. For instance, mutant dogs may attack you relentlessly while ignoring nearby enemies. Invisible anomalies that kill instantly and radiation-related deaths can feel arbitrary, especially early on when resources like health kits and food are scarce. Additionally, the dialogue leans on cliches, which may detract from the storytelling for some players.
Despite its challenges, “S.T.A.L.K.E.R. 2: Heart of Chornobyl” offers a deeply rewarding experience for those willing to persevere. The unforgiving difficulty and grounded survival mechanics create a palpable sense of tension, while the evocative setting offers a mix of chaos and beauty. Fans of open-world games, particularly those craving a grittier and more challenging experience, will find much to appreciate.
Born out of extraordinary circumstances, it is more than just a game — it’s a testament to the resilience and creativity of its developers. Stick with it, and you will discover a truly unique title forged in the most difficult of times.
What We Are Reading Today: ‘Japan: The Natural History of an Asian Archipelago’
Author: Mark Brazil
This richly illustrated guide is the first comprehensive and accessible introduction to the extraordinary natural history of the Japanese archipelago.
It explains how Japan’s geology, geography, climate, seas and currents have forged conditions supporting a diverse range of species—from cranes, bears, eagles and monkeys to plants, butterflies, dragonflies, frogs and snakes—many of which are found nowhere else in the world.
Engaging and authoritative, this book is a must-have for anyone who wants to explore or learn about Japan’s natural wonders, from the Japanese Macaque—the famous snow monkeys—to the magnificent Steller’s Eagle.
Book Review: ‘The Condiment Book’ by Claire Dinhut
When presented with a plate of piping hot French fries, what condiment do you reach for to slather, drizzle or dip into?
If you’ve ever wondered about your choice, there is a new book that will speak to your soul.
“The Condiment Book,” published late 2024, is a comprehensive guide celebrating the unsung heroes and supporting stars of our meals.
From timeless staples like ketchup, mayonnaise, mustard and butter (in their various iterations) to more adventurous hot sauces, ferments, pickles, dressings, oils and dips, the book explores the myriad ways in which condiments enhance our everyday dining. Add a little squeeze, a giant dollop or a sprinkling and it completely changes the whole meal and your experience.
Packed with recipes, flavor pairings and historical insights in an Instagrammable-ready format, each page is a love letter to a condiment.
Author Claire Dinhut, better known as “Condiment Claire,” describes herself as not a chef but a “flavor adventurer.” She has built a loyal following with her engaging content, particularly on TikTok, where she taste-tests and rates everything from jams to butters.
“This book is about curiosity,” she writes. “What excites our taste buds? How can we evoke feelings with every bite? How can we travel the world while sitting at a table?”
Dinhut begins by addressing the fundamental question: What is a condiment? She explains how the term originates from the Latin “condire,” meaning “to preserve, pickle, season, spice, render pleasant or enhance flavor.” In ancient Rome, a “condominium” referred to any sauce — an addition not strictly necessary but which always elevated the dish.
However, she clarifies: “This is not a cookbook. Instead, think of this book as a flavor manual.”
While it includes recipes for homemade condiments, Dinhut reassures readers that store-bought is perfectly fine. In her words, the book serves as a “personal diary of fun eats to tantalize our taste buds and keep life exciting.”
And it is does not simply provide a sprinkling of recipes; it delivers historical gems, too.
For instance, did you know the first ketchup had a fishy story? Originating in Hokkien Chinese as “ke-tsiap,” the original version was likely made from fermented fish. It was not until 1812 in the US that tomato ketchup as we know it made its debut.
Dinhut’s non-cookbook is an invitation to embrace curiosity, creativity, and flavor in every bite and is itself a complementary condiment for your collection of recipe books.
Book Review: ‘White Nights’ by Fyodor Dostoevsky
Fyodor Dostoevsky’s “White Nights” is a hauntingly beautiful novella that captures the delicate interplay of dreams and reality, love and loneliness.
Written in 1848, this early work by the Russian master offers a poignant exploration of human emotions, showcasing his remarkable ability to delve into the complexities of the heart.
Told in the first person, the novella invites readers into the world of a nameless narrator, a dreamer who yearns for connection yet struggles with isolation.
Set against the ethereal backdrop of St. Petersburg’s white nights, where the sun barely sets and time feels suspended, the story unfolds over the course of four evenings and one morning.
The narrator, a solitary figure lost in his own fantasies, encounters Nastenka, a young woman whose vitality and vulnerability draw him out of his shell.
What begins as an unlikely meeting blossoms into an intense, fleeting relationship, marked by confessions, shared hopes, and the bittersweet promise of love.
Dostoevsky’s prose is lyrical and evocative, capturing the dreamlike atmosphere of the city and the emotional turbulence of his characters. The narrator’s voice is filled with longing and naivety, his idealism and vulnerability making him both endearing and tragic.
Nastenka, meanwhile, is a figure of contrasts — at once strong-willed and dependent, hopeful and heartbroken. Together, they create a dynamic that is as tender as it is heartbreaking.
At its core, “White Nights” is a meditation on loneliness and the human desire for connection. Dostoevsky paints a vivid picture of the narrator’s internal world, a place filled with grandiose dreams but devoid of real companionship.
The fleeting relationship with Nastenka becomes a mirror for his yearning, offering him a taste of the intimacy he craves while underscoring its impermanence. Their encounters are imbued with a sense of fragility, as if the story itself might dissolve with the dawn.
The novella also explores the tension between reality and fantasy, a theme that runs through much of Dostoevsky’s work.
The narrator’s idealized view of love clashes with the complexities of Nastenka’s situation, creating a narrative that is as much about disillusionment as it is about hope.
In this way, “White Nights” reflects Dostoevsky’s early interest in the psychological struggles that would later define his great novels.
Though brief, “White Nights” is rich in emotional depth and literary beauty. It captures the universal experience of longing, the ache of unfulfilled dreams, and the bittersweet nature of human connections that are as fleeting as the white nights themselves.
For readers new to Dostoevsky, the novella serves as an accessible entry point to his work, while longtime admirers will recognize the seeds of the psychological insight and moral complexity that define his later masterpieces.
In “White Nights,” Dostoevsky creates a timeless portrait of the human spirit — its capacity for love, vulnerability to heartbreak, and endless yearning for something just out of reach.
It is a story that lingers in the mind, much like the soft glow of a St. Petersburg summer night, leaving readers both moved and reflective.
