PARIS: Elie Saab, the Lebanese designer long favored on the red carpet, returned to familiar territory on Wednesday, with fall haute couture — and did so unapologetically.

In Paris, fashion insiders gathered among marble columns as models descended a gilded stone staircase to the strains of harpsichord music, setting the tone for a collection steeped in historical romance.

Saab leaned into his signature codes: sumptuous velvets, gowns gathered at the back, and pearl and jewel-adorned chokers. Floral appliques — another hallmark — blossomed, anchoring the collection in the femininity that has defined the house for decades.

This was a particularly thoughtful collection, evoking romantic silhouettes from the turn of the 19th century in Europe. The soft draping and historical references gave the show a sense of emotional depth beyond its surface opulence.

Macaron hues — nude, rose pink, water blue, and mint — punctuated by imperial black and gold, set off bold blooms across brocade and print, infusing the collection with romantic vibrancy. Among the standout pieces were gowns with cascading trains and bejeweled details, encasing the body in a kind of luxurious cage.

Saab said the collection — dubbed “The New Court” — was “a sumptuous playground for the modern queen — one who plays by her own rules.”

Though luxury and opulence may be Saab’s well-trodden path, he showed that consistency remains its own form of artistry.

Saab’s couture is less about surprise and more about control — control of silhouette, embellishment, and fantasy. 

If the show felt familiar at times, it was also undeniably polished — a standout collection that reminded audiences why Saab’s world of embellished escapism continues to resonate.

It’s a formula that keeps Hollywood coming back. Angelina Jolie, Gwyneth Paltrow, Sarah Jessica Parker, Marion Cotillard, Penélope Cruz, Charlize Theron, Emmanuelle Béart, Sophie Marceau, Beyoncé, Maggie Cheung and Diane Kruger have all stepped onto the world’s biggest stages in Saab’s gowns — a testament to a house where fantasy and glamour are always in season.

DUBAI: Ashi Studio, founded by Saudi couturier Mohammed Ashi, presented its Fall/Winter 2026 haute couture collection during Paris Haute Couture Week, featuring a series of architectural gowns and tailored creations.

The collection focused on structured silhouettes and exaggerated proportions, with many looks emphasizing sharp tailoring, corsetry and sculpted waistlines. 

Several pieces featured dark satin corsets with lace trim, dramatic fishtails, high slits and cascading fringe panels. Throughout the collection, waists was cinched and hips were accentuated. 

A palette of black, ivory and champagne was punctuated by shimmering metallics and embroidery. Satin, tulle, lace and jacquard were prominent, with select garments incorporating feathers, beaded applique and textured embellishments. 

Several looks integrated embroidery that resembled botanical and animal motifs, while others featured sculptural three-dimensional elements like floral bustiers or carved wooden corsets. One standout piece was a cream ensemble embroidered with monkeys and leaves, while another featured a corset carved in a wood-like finish, wrapped by sculptural monkeys. 

Other designs included sheer tulle gowns with visible corsetry, jackets with dramatic shoulders and floral applique and fully sequined dresses embroidered with birds and foliage.

Some models carried small clutches made from matching textiles.

US rapper Cardi B was among the high-profile guests at the Paris-based brand’s presentation. She arrived wearing an ivory lace gown with a high-neck and long-sleeves. The dress featured sheer panels, tiered ruffles and a voluminous asymmetrical skirt. She completed the look with pointed heels and a side braid. 

The rapper posed for photos alongside Ashi ahead of the show.

Ashi’s creations have been worn by the likes of Beyonce, Lady Gaga, Jennifer Hudson, Kylie Minogue, Penélope Cruz, Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor, Queen Rania of Jordan and more.  

Ashi became the first couturier from the Gulf region to join the Fédération de la Haute Couture in Paris as a guest member in 2023. He also became the first designer from the Gulf to be included in the BoF 500 list, the Business of Fashion’s index of the people shaping the fashion industry in 2023.

Ashi designed the inaugural fashion line for the cabin crew of the Kingdom’s new airline, Riyadh Air, which is on track to make its maiden flight this year.