With recovery still very slow for Egypt’s tourism industry — the coastal resorts among the hardest hit — most travelers coming to Egypt these days arrive in the capital, Cairo.
Usually this is for business or transit, which often means they have little more than a couple of days to explore one of the world’s most exciting cities. In a city with a population of over 20 million this can feel a tad overwhelming, so to make it easier to get the most out of Al-Madinah Al-Qahir — The City Victorious – here is a guide on how to spend 48 hours in Cairo.
DAY ONE
Cairo is home to one of the world’s most ancient Christian cultures and it is what makes this city like no other in the Arab world. A trip to Coptic Cairo isn’t just fascinating for the window into an ancient Christian culture it offers, but also because of just how much of the art and architecture of that culture mirrors classical Muslim ones.
Start at the seventh century Hanging Church, which is said to “hang” over the original water gate of Roman Babylon. Here, the art history lesson begins outside the courtyard; where to the left of the entrance is a beautiful ornamental balcony that seems to have been designed for a classical Moorish palace. Then there are the intricate stone carvings and geometric patterns on the heavy wooden door that could also have been borrowed from that palace.
Once inside, the courtyard’s mosaics of religious scenes also have a familiar echo. In one, a group of young men stand outside a church wearing white skull caps and thobe-like outfits holding crosses — replace the church with a mosque and the crosses with Qur’ans and it could be a scene outside a mosque from anywhere in the Muslim world.
The church itself is entered through a door carved with geometric star patterns that also seem classically Moorish. Inside, the ornate hanging lanterns, ivory-inlaid screens and floral-topped pillars are features seen in mosques all over Cairo. Admiring these wonderful commonalities will take a good few hours and should be followed by a visit to the equally fascinating Coptic museum next door.
In the late afternoon head downtown to Cafe Riche on Sharia Talaat Harb. This is one of Cairo’s oldest restaurants, and an excellent place to grab a late lunch or early dinner as you admire the greats of Egyptian culture. Once the favored drinking spot of the capital’s intelligentsia, the cultural tour at Cafe Riche starts outside its wooden, old-worldly facade. Here, behind glass frames, beautiful black and white photography offer a window into a Cairo from the same bygone eras Cafe Riche belongs to. After tucking into the delightful sambosa (meat-filled mini pastries) and fish fingers — made from fresh chunks of delicately spiced white fish — be sure to stick your head into the back room where huge black and white portraits of Egypt’s cultural who’s who hang beside intriguing cartoon caricatures.
In the afternoon, explore the quirky streets of downtown Cairo before heading to Dina’s Hostel on Sharia Abdel Khalek Sarwat for your bed for the night. Tucked away in a quiet, cool alleyway, Dina’s has entered modern Cairo history after becoming a hub for journalists during the 2011 revolution. The hostel continues to host weekly cultural lectures and exhibitions that are worth inquiring about. Rooms here are spacious, with beautiful oak flooring and solid wood furniture. Dina’s is on the fifth floor of a beautiful 250-year-old building with the most delightful little wooden elevator to take you there.
However, the best thing about Dina’s has to be the guests. Popular with eclectic, international and boho types, this is the only place in Cairo where you are likely to find yourself in conversation with an English researcher, a Japanese spiritual hippie and an American couch surfer all in one night.
DAY TWO
Get up bright and early to do the pyramids. That way you will avoid the intensity of the sun as it climbs to its midday zenith during your visit to the world’s only remaining ancient wonder — shade is scarce here. Arrive armed with plenty of water and a sun hat, before heading into one of the neighborhoods of Giza that directly border the pyramid complex. There, grab yourself a local guide with a camel and negotiate a decent price — not only will you avoid the queues but you also get to see the site much quicker than you will by foot, leaving you more time to explore the rest of Cairo. Of course, the main reason you should experience the pyramids atop your very own “ship of the desert” is because it is the way man has done so since the enigmatic monuments were first built — gently swaying atop a dromedary as the Sphinx comes into view is exactly how Antipater of Sidon and Philo of Byzantium would have first set eyes upon this magical Pharaonic graveyard, before instantly putting it on their list of the Seven Wonders of the World. No trip to Cairo can possibly be complete without seeing the pyramids of Giza.
After a well-earned rest, make the afternoon and evening all about Cairo’s 14th century medieval bazaar, the Khan Al-Khalili. Once the location of the tomb of the Fatimids — Cairo’s founders — the Khan has been a caravanserai for the past seven centuries. Like most traditional great markets, it used to be divided into distinct specialist districts. But these days only the spice dealers, coppersmiths and gold sellers have their own areas. Among the landmarks to visit is Midaq Alley, where Cairene Nobel Laureate, Naguib Mahfouz, set one of his best-known works. The alley is so famous now that to see its street sign you’ll have to pay a little baksheesh at the nearby coffeehouse. The other reason to come to the Khan is the historic ahwa, El-Fishawi’s, where you can enjoy a coffee and bubbling sheesha the way Cairenes have been doing since 1773.
Squeezed into a narrow alley off Midan Al-Hussein, sit back and enjoy the bazaar as it continues to come at you with hawkers seemingly appearing from nowhere to offer you everything from fake Ray-Ban sunglasses to an oud serenade. Fishawi’s also serves the most delicious version of sahlab, a traditional Egyptian winter drink made from creamy milk and topped with peanuts and a hint of coconut.
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48 hours in Cairo: To experience the Egyptian city’s old-world vibe or simply to see the pyramids requires just two days
48 hours in Cairo: To experience the Egyptian city’s old-world vibe or simply to see the pyramids requires just two days
Saudi Arabia’s recreational spaces ready for holiday season
AL-BAHA: Saudi authorities have announced extensive preparations of public recreational facilities ahead of the school holiday season.
The Al-Baha municipality has readied 142 parks and recreational areas, along with municipal squares, public spaces and streets, to welcome visitors and tourists.
According to regional secretary, Ali bin Mohammed Al-Sawat, these facilities span more than 4,188,559.98 million square meters and feature amenities including children’s playgrounds, green spaces, shade structures, lighting, sidewalks, seating areas and parking, and facilities for activities such as walking and cycling.
Meanwhile, the Eastern Region Municipality has completed the preparation of 979 parks and public squares, 18 public recreational parks, 14 waterfront areas and 213 walking tracks.
The facilities are timely as moderate weather conditions and school breaks attract more outdoor activity.
The municipality emphasized its commitment to regular maintenance of these facilities, considering them vital breathing spaces for citizens and residents.
Cloud7 Residence AlUla: A dreamy home away from home
- The gated resort is an ideal place from which to explore the ancient desert oasis
ALULA: Roughly half an hour’s drive from AlUla’s Prince Abdul Majeed bin Abdulaziz International Airport, Cloud7 Residence is the largest hotel in the area, boasting 301 modern bungalows. Each unit is thoughtfully designed, featuring individual private terraces from which guests can enjoy awe-inspiring views of AlUla’s stunning landscapes — mountains and lush greenery.
Cloud7’s decor blends the ancient with the trendy. Coupled with the traditional Saudi hospitality on offer, this is a truly nice place to stay. It’s the chillest hotel/resort I’ve been to in ages.
The beds are comfortable and the rooms are well-equipped, including plenty of places to plug in your devices. There are eco-friendly products provided, including chewable toothpaste that comes in tiny pills in a glass jar, and which activates once you have some water in your mouth.
The fridge comes stocked with complimentary sodas and plenty of water bottles at the ready — also useful for feeding into the coffee machine.
The main mode of transportation in the grounds, whether taking your luggage to your room, going to breakfast or to relax by the pool, or heading to your next activity, is a buggy. There was usually one right outside my door each time I emerged from my bungalow, but if there isn’t, you can simply call for one.
The residence is an ideal base for both short- and long-term stays, designed to accommodate the needs of leisure seekers, adventure enthusiasts and business travelers alike in its secure, gated space.
As part of the residence’s commitment to honoring local heritage, a series of murals created by local artists adorn the walls. Artists including Hanan Sami and Maram AlSelayem brought their individual styles to the project, creating pieces that highlight AlUla’s natural beauty and heritage. The venue’s community and culture manager, Fahad Alfaqir, said the artists who painted the murals are all from AlUla, as he is, and that they depicted local plants and flowers to decorate the spaces and used inscriptions from indigenous languages.
Cloud7 Residence AlUla’s dining experiences range from gourmet meals to relaxed, family-friendly options. Charcood, the resort’s signature restaurant, offers a selection of smoky, charcoal-grilled dishes crafted by Chef Jaume Puigdengolas. Open for breakfast, dinner, and light bites, it was my go-to place to start the day.
For those who prefer a more casual atmosphere, Off-Road Café serves lunch, dinner and light snacks in a laidback setting, perfect for watching live sports or movies on large screens. Guests can enjoy playing pool, darts and foosball, or indulge in some shisha outside.
For those seeking a relaxing time away from being away, the Pool Lounge offers casual dining with comfortable beanbags and a curated menu of international flavors, all presented poolside. It was perhaps my favorite spot to sit and literally reflect while the serene water reminds you to stay centered.
Cloud7 Residence AlUla is also in a prime location for exploring AlUla’s many historical sites. Visitors can easily reach attractions like the ancient city of Dadan, Jabal Ikmah’s rock inscriptions and — my favorite — Old Town. You can book guided tours, but the hotel also provides car and bike rentals.
Cloud7 Residence AlUla is more than just somewhere to stay; it’s an invitation to connect with the timeless beauty of AlUla — a place which makes you feel so big and so small all at once.
Tashkent: An underrated gem of the Silk Road
- Uzbekistan’s capital city boasts grand architecture and a rich cultural history
DUBAI: Tashkent may not be as famous for its architecture and culture as Paris, Rome or Barcelona, but the capital of Uzbekistan is an underrated gem for tourists.
With a population of more than three million, Tashkent is the largest city in Central Asia, which was formerly part of the Soviet Union. Tashkent — which means “city of stone” — is historically significant as one of several trading hubs (along with its neighboring cities Bukhara and Samarkand) on the Silk Road stretching from Europe to China. In the 8th century, the city was under Muslim Arab rule, and Islamic architecture, studded with stunning blue tiles that match the skies above Tashkent, remains a notable feature.
Under Soviet rule, Tashkent saw a rise in the modernist style of heavy, brutalist buildings beloved by the USSR — see, for example, the overwhelming, grid-like exterior of Hotel Uzbekistan, established in 1974. Between the 1960s and 1990s, such structures were part of a plan to rebuild the city after an earthquake in 1966.
One of the grandest buildings in Tashkent is the centrally located Alisher Navoiy Theater, an elegant opera house which opened in the 1930s, playing the timeless melodies of classical maestros Tchaikovsky, Prokofiev and Verdi. It is named after the poet and national hero dubbed “the father of Uzbek literature,” who was born in modern-day Afghanistan during the 1400s. Designed by the Soviet architect Alexey Shchusev, the 1,500-seat opera house radiates with European and Oriental stylistic elements. Its six lobbies are named after the Uzbek cities of Bukhara, Khorezm, Samarkand, Fergana, Termez and Tashkent.
A number of museums — devoted to history, art, geology and warfare — exist in the capital; one of the best is the highly ornate Museum of Applied Arts, which pays tribute to the delicate handcraftsmanship of traditional Uzbek artisans, and displays embroidery, pottery, miniature paintings, jewelry and weaponry. The building itself is a work of art too, showcasing detailed wooden ceilings rendered with floral and geometric motifs.
There are more than 2,000 mosques in Uzbekistan and one of its oldest is Kukeldash Madrasah, founded in the 1500s. The tranquil site, which has been restored and used for various purposes over the years, was originally built to host lessons in Islamic studies and the Qur’an (lessons which still happen today). It also houses an intimate calligraphy studio. The main facade features Arabic scripture and a pattern of arches, decorated by predominantly blue mosaics.
Close by is the lively and substantial Chorsu Bazaar, where locals go to shop for food, spices, crockery and trinkets. The ruby-colored pomegranate fruit is particularly popular, and also features as a motif on clothing, acting, in a way, as a symbol of the country. The bazaar sits under a blue ornamented dome, which was designed in 1980.
If you’re looking for a more peaceful location, then the Rakhimovs Ceramic Studio is the place to be. This haven of creativity, accessible by appointment only, aims to preserve the heritage of ceramic art. Full of decorated pottery pieces, the family-run space tells the story of four generations of ceramic masters, starting with one of Tashkent’s prominent 20th-century ceramicists and restorer of mosaics Mukhitdin Rakhimov down to his grandson, Alisher Akbarovich Rakhimov, who has passed along the art of pottery to his son, Shokhrukh.
And Tashkent’s attractions are not all on its surface. Be sure to visit the Tashkent Metro, which, in 1977, became the first subway system in Central Asia. Its 29 stations resemble art galleries, full of sophisticated columns, patterned domes, colorful tiles and murals with stories of national pride to tell. Perhaps the most famous station in the system is Kosmonavtlar (Cosmonauts), with its blue-and-white interior that inspired by the ‘space race,’ which occurred between the 1950s and 1970s. The walls of the station showcase large medallions depicting the Soviet Union’s leading astronauts, Yuri Gagarin and Valentina Tereshkova, respectively the first man and woman to go to space.
Tashkent is an ideal location for lovers of architecture who want to discover something atypical. It has a visually appealing landscape of old and modern buildings, demonstrating the city’s diverse cultural heritage, which is worthy of preservation and attention.
Craftsmanship of decorated wooden doors reflects Aseer’s artistic heritage
- Skills have been passed down through the generations
ASEER: Intricately designed wooden doors in the Aseer region are more than a mere means of entry for they provide a reflection of the area’s rich artistic heritage.
The doors display exceptional craftsmanship that has been passed down through generations, showcasing the unique skills and creativity of local artisans.
Researchers in architecture highlight these intricately decorated doors as essential components of the area’s architectural heritage.
In an interview with the Saudi Press Agency, Dr. Ali Marzouq, a professor of archaeology and Islamic arts at King Khalid University, spoke of the cultural significance of this art form.
He said: “People find psychological comfort in beautifying their possessions. The decorative motifs typical of Islamic architecture, including engravings and inscriptions, have become integral to building design, enhancing both functionality and aesthetic appeal.”
The artistry involved in carving and engraving wooden doors has elevated them to symbols of social status.
HIGHLIGHTS
• This tradition continues today, with many people updating their door decorations for holidays and special events.
• In the coastal Tihama region, some residents enhance their main entrances by planting aromatic plants, adding a delightful fragrance.
Marzouq said that the main door holds significant importance, serving as a reflection of the owner’s wealth and prestige. Elaborately adorned doors made from high-quality woods are typically found in the homes of the affluent, while simpler designs are more prevalent among average households.
This tradition continues today, with many people updating their door decorations for holidays and special events. In the coastal Tihama region, some residents enhance their main entrances by planting aromatic plants, adding a delightful fragrance.
Decorative elements on wooden doors and windows have been central to the architectural identity of the Arabian Peninsula since ancient times. These embellishments not only highlight the skill of the artisans but also serve as effective marketing for their craftsmanship.
Dr. Saleh Abu Arad, a researcher in the field, echoed Marzouq’s sentiments, emphasizing the significance of the “door and window industry” as a skilled trade that utilized local wood and various techniques to create doors and windows of diverse sizes. These architectural elements are often enriched with exquisite engravings and metal accents, such as handles and rings.
The choice of wood plays a crucial role in the final product’s quality. The talh tree, also known as the red acacia, which is renowned for its dense and cohesive fibers, is favored for crafting high-quality doors and intricate designs.
Carpenters have excelled in engraving beautiful decorations on both exterior and interior doors, utilizing the unique properties of the wood.
Traditionally, the decoration of internal wooden doors and windows is a task undertaken by the housewife, with assistance from female relatives and neighbors. These decorations feature a range of geometric, botanical, and symbolic motifs, contributing to a warm and inviting atmosphere for guests and visitors.
The Aseer region boasts a vibrant tradition of skilled carpenters who have mastered the craft of creating traditional architectural doors and windows. Inspired by their natural environment, these artisans incorporate a diverse array of detailed patterns and botanical designs into their work, intentionally avoiding human or animal imagery.
Researcher Maryam Al-Omari says popular designs often feature geometric shapes such as triangles and diamonds, which are intricately combined to enhance the overall aesthetic.
Acknowledging the significance of safeguarding this area of cultural heritage, the Ministry of Culture republished the works of the French professor Thierry Mouget in 2021. His comprehensive photographic records of southern Saudi Arabia from the 1980s showcase the region’s architectural styles, historical legacies, social dynamics, and customs, shedding light on the rich cultural fabric of the Aseer region.
South Korea: easy on the eye, not so easy on the wallet
- It’s deservedly popular with tourists from the Gulf, but make sure to watch your budget
DUBAI: First off, a trip to South Korea is expensive. There’s no two ways about it. A return trip from Dubai costs in excess of $2,300 unless you opt to spending two days travelling in each direction. I chose the former.
There’s a perception that if you love Japan, you’ll also love South Korea. In fact, I found that South Korea was nothing like Japan. But why should it be? The Japanese dynasty ended a long time ago. Korea feels more humble, less in-your-face.
Seoul — the capital city — is large, clean, and very Western. The Metro system is busy and frequent, but unlike the public transport networks in the West, it feels safe. People are conscious of each other’s personal space and with a population of just over 10 million they need to be. But there’s no obvious fear of crime, everyone seems to have their heads buried in their phones. (For tourists, that might be because they’re checking their Korean translation app, an absolute necessity.)
To get the real vibe of this sprawling city — which is not dissimilar to Manhattan in New York — it’s worth walking the skyscraper-lined streets.
There are coffee shops pretty much everywhere you look. And in the malls, food courts are filled with baked goods, noodles and all varieties of meat. And while the fare is OK, none of it feels especially Asian, and judging by comments made by chefs this writer knows, Korea is not a place for foodies.
There’s a wide assortment of tours on offer — including a full day at the Demilitarized Zone on the North Korean border, which costs around $100 but is worth the effort and investment just to see across to the North with the guard posts in the distance and the 100-meter-high mast carrying the North Korean flag. You can also walk along a very claustrophobic tunnel dug by the North Koreans into the south.
Back in Seoul, the Starfield Library boasts a vast collection of 50,000 books in shelves that scale two floors – a must for those seeking an Instagrammable moment. There’s also a kitsch tribute to the novelty pop hit “Gangnam Style” — if indeed that is your style.
Seoul’s Anguk area is worth spending some time in; the art galleries and cafés have a youthful buzz and the Artist Bakery offered some beautifully mellow coffee and a huge selection of moreish salted butter bread treats.
There’s much to see in South Korea outside of Seoul, of course. And a three-hour trip on the bullet train takes you to the small(ish) city of Busan in the south east of the peninsular, where things feel much less Westernized. It’s a city crammed with markets and malls, selling anything and everything.
Find a hotel overlooking the water — there’s a lot of it and the fish market offers the chance to eat pretty much anything that is found in there. Be warned though, this place might look like a budget meal awaits you, but you can easily spend in excess of $40 for some octopus and something called “spoon worm” sashimi — the latter resembling a very particular internal organ.
Gamcheon Cultural Village — an assembly of narrow lanes and small pastel-colored houses on the side of a hill — provides stunning views down the valley towards the sea; another place for Insta-moments. And the Songdo cable car is worth a ride for the equally spectacular photo-ops.
Busan also provides plenty of opportunity to sample authentic and delicious Korean street food, just don’t be put off by the aesthetics of some of the outlets.
My final stop was Jeju Island — an hour away by plane — where I spent a few days ambling about, taking in the beautiful coastline with its jagged volcanic rocks. From the many bus tours on offer, the east and south were the highlights. The Yeha Bus Tour is particularly good, with stops including Stone Park, an ancient village, and the 600-step climb up Seongsan Sunrise Peak for some stunning panoramic views of the volcanic crater and surrounding area (followed by the slow hobble back down).
South Korea is certainly a destination worth visiting, but with a necessary proviso: Make sure you have plenty of disposable income so you can create memories that don’t break the bank.
