How fair is our food? Big companies take reins on sourcing schemes

Green and Black's chocolate bars are displayed for sale in a store in London, Britain August 24, 2017. Picture taken August 24, 2017. (REUTERS)
Updated 03 September 2017
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How fair is our food? Big companies take reins on sourcing schemes

LONDON: From cocoa to tea, food and drink giants are setting their own standards for ethical sourcing of raw materials, moving away from third-party labels such as Fairtrade.
Mondelez International, owner of chocolate brands Cadbury and Toblerone, Unilever, behind tea brands such as Lipton and PG Tips, and Barry Callebaut, the world’s biggest producer of chocolate and cocoa products, have all introduced their own schemes.
They say their targets are more comprehensive and some claim their schemes are more effective in tracking whether a product is ethically sourced every step of the way. With companies under financial pressure, analysts say it has also been a way to save money.
But critics are worried that the standards that third-party groups such as UTZ Certified or Rainforest Alliance have fought to establish risk being muddled and what is deemed ethical and sustainable could become more ambiguous.
“Standards measuring environmental and social issues need to be transparent because, once this process happens behind closed doors, it is difficult to see how companies and farms apply them,” said Sloane Hamilton, labor rights policy adviser at Oxfam, a charity focused on alleviating poverty.
“We don’t want to see standards watered down, and neither do we want customers to be faced by a bewildering proliferation of different certification schemes.”
Third-party certifiers are not opposed to all self-certification, even though the loss of fees could threaten their future. Rather, they are worried standards could become meaningless if too many companies set their own criteria.
Mondelez started selling the first Green & Black’s chocolate in the UK without a Fairtrade logo in August, more than 23 years after the brand’s Maya Gold bar received Britain’s first mark.
The bar instead carries the stamp of “Cocoa Life,” a Mondelez scheme started in 2012 with broad goals including improved productivity, protection of fertile land and gender equality in farming communities.
Mondelez says Fairtrade is still an “implementing partner” and the group’s auditing arm is used to vet cocoa sourced through “Cocoa Life.”
Fairtrade, a non profit, aims to push for a better deal for farmers and workers in developing nations. It sets standards, including a minimum price for raw materials, and requires companies to contribute toward businesses or community projects, in exchange for the Fairtrade stamp.
But as the concept of ethically-sourced ingredients has become better understood by consumers, brands have started adopting standards that work for their business and image.
“It’s opened the door for companies to say ‘well let’s develop a standard that suits our business and also has the impact that we want to have on the ground,” said Alan Rownan, ethical labels analyst at Euromonitor.
Crafting in-house standards has also become a way to trim costs for big companies under financial pressure as economic growth slows and consumers opt for healthier snacks or smaller, more artisan brands.
“When the whole market is certified, the ability to have a higher price for it becomes less,” said Jon Cox, analyst at Kepler Cheuvreux in Zurich, who follows companies such as Nestle and Barry Callebaut.
“So why not bring it in-house anyway and save money? And if they can convince consumers that it’s as good as some of the independents, if not better, then that maybe helps them as well.”
DEEPER INVOLVEMENT
While third-party labels have had a leading role in the drive to stamp out practices such as deforestation and child labor on farms, they have also faced criticism.
Think-tanks and industry groups say the way they enforce standards is not transparent enough and they have failed to align their programs to reduce complexity. Rainforest Alliance and UTZ Certified are now expected to streamline their standards after recently announcing plans to merge.
With consumer awareness growing, companies are also seeking to track more closely the sourcing of their ingredients and show the impact of certification to their consumers.
Fairtrade ensures that the sourcing of raw materials including coffee and bananas can be traced at every step of farming and processing but it does not provide the same guarantee for cocoa and tea.
It says certified cocoa beans are difficult to track as they can get mixed with conventional beans at the processing stage in countries that do not have the capacity to keep them separate.
This means a Fairtrade chocolate bar may be made with certified and conventional cocoa, with the label only guaranteeing that the company buys a percentage of Fairtrade beans and that any premium paid goes to farmers certified by the organization.
Some food and drinks companies say, as part of their move to new standards, they are taking a more active role in sourcing to show consumers a clearer link.
For example, Barry Callebaut built a dedicated ethically-sourced cocoa butter tank in a factory in Belgium and it has launched a mobile app aimed at improving traceability on farms in the Ivory Coast.
Mondelez does not track cocoa through the entire supply chain, but it says Cocoa Life has allowed for a deeper involvement with farmers. The company uses digital mapping in Ghana, Ivory Coast and Indonesia to boost transparency and traceability from farm to processing facility.
“When you’re simply a buyer of raw materials, then in a typical supply chain, you’re not involved directly on the ground,” said Jonathan Horrell, global director of sustainability for Mondelez.
Some companies have also set deadlines for eliminating unsustainable practices from their supply chain and, as they approach, the pressure to find solutions has intensified.
Unilever has promised to source 100 percent of its materials sustainably by 2020 using both certification and its own “Unilever Sustainable Agriculture Code.”
Barry Callebaut is also aiming to source 100 percent of its ingredients sustainably by 2025, up from 23 percent in 2015. It buys cocoa through external schemes and its own “Cocoa Horizons” program.
“They’re under pressure to reach these (goals),” Rownan said. “And it’s not always easy to reach 100 percent targets following these mainstream, rigid certifications.”

SAVVY CONSUMERS
While critics of self-certification worry about muddling standards, consumers are growing savvier. The companies say they risk a fierce backlash if they try to loosen the rules.
“If you connect your name to it...then you want to make sure what you’re putting out there is absolutely credible,” said Christiaan Prins, head of external affairs for Barry Callebaut. “The consumer nowadays can no longer be tricked in any sense.”
Sainsbury’s angered consumers and watchdogs in June when it replaced the Fairtrade mark on its own-brand tea with its pilot “Fairly Traded” version, with an eye to possibly extending it to other products such as coffee and bananas.
Under “Fairly Traded,” farmers will get “above and beyond” what they were receiving from Fairtrade and it should help make them more resilient to climate change, said Sainsbury’s head of media relations David Nieberg.
But critics say the scheme takes control away from farmer organizations, who will no longer directly receive a premium for their tea. The premium will be managed by the Sainsbury’s Foundation and will be used to fund farmers’ strategic projects.
Sainsbury’s will not pay licensing fees to Fairtrade but will continue to buy tea from farmers certified by the group. It will also purchase from farmers vetted by other groups if it decides they meet its in-house rules for ethical sourcing, Nieberg said.
Consumer scrutiny is likely to be even greater toward companies using self-made schemes to meet ambitious targets for “sustainable” sourcing — a label that is already ambiguous because it has many standards and meanings.
“When companies move away from certifiers and all of a sudden are able to far more easily achieve their sustainability goals – well what’s changed?” said Rownan. “I think consumers will want to know.”
With questions about their future, third-party certifiers are trying to adapt to the potential dent to licensing fees, which made up 11 million euros ($13.04 million) or 63 percent of Fairtrade International’s income in 2015.
“We’re trying to show them the stories behind the investment,” said Dario Soto Abril, chief executive officer at Fairtrade International. “We’re making a big effort to listen to companies and adapt and innovate within our model.”
Fairtrade also hopes to expand through new partnerships with groups such as Lidl and Aldi, said Abril. Fairtrade’s auditing arm, FLOCERT, also launched an online platform called Fairtrace, to make it easier to track products through the supply chain. ($1 = 0.8434 euros)


Solo dining an emerging trend challenging Saudi traditional culture

Updated 08 November 2024
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Solo dining an emerging trend challenging Saudi traditional culture

  • Saudi Arabia’s younger generation are subtly changing eating trends, moving from a full family table to a single seat 

RIYADH: In Saudi Arabia, dining out has long been a social ritual, an experience shared with family and friends over lavish meals, full of conversation and camaraderie. 

However, a subtle yet noticeable shift is taking place as more Saudis, especially the younger generation, are choosing to dine alone, seeking moments of solitude amid the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

Once considered a rare sight, solo diners are now becoming more common in cafes, restaurants and eateries across the Kingdom. For some, it is a matter of convenience, while for others it is a form of self-care, a way to recharge and reconnect with themselves. 

This emerging trend challenges traditional Saudi dining culture, creating new opportunities for restaurants and altering societal perceptions.

For Zain Al-Mansour, solo dining is more than just an alternative to dining with others, it is an experience that he actively cherishes. “I much prefer it over dining with someone,” he says. “I seek it out and make a day out of it for myself. It’s relaxing, and it charges my energy.” 

Solo dining has become Al-Mansour’s way to unwind, offering him a chance to indulge in his favorite foods without the distraction of company.

He acknowledges that not everyone feels comfortable dining alone, particularly in a culture where social gatherings are so deeply ingrained. 

“Plenty of people would not go out unless it’s with someone else,” Al-Mansour said. “I think everyone should at least try solo dining once and truly treat themselves. Bring a book if you’re worried about boredom, and don’t think twice about what people might think. What matters is that you’re happy.”

Al-Mansour sees solo dining as a form of empowerment, encouraging others to overcome social anxieties and embrace the experience. “It pushes you to talk, at least to the workers, which helps improve social skills.”

In Saudi culture, dining has traditionally been a collective activity, with meals often serving as the focal point of family and social gatherings. 

For Bashayer Al-Bloushi, dining alone offered a refreshing change from this norm. “What inspired me to start dining alone was my desire to explore a new experience that offers me space to reflect and relax away from the hustle of daily life,” she said.

Dining alone allows her to savor the ambiance and immerse herself in the restaurant environment without the usual pressure of conversation. 

This experience of dining independently has become a cherished form of personal time for Al-Bloushi, allowing her to enjoy moments of solitude. She sees it as an act of self-care and independence, a rare opportunity to connect with oneself.

Al-Bloushi also believes that Saudi restaurants could do more to support this trend. “They could designate cozy, quiet spaces for individual diners and offer meals suitable for one person,” she said. By creating a welcoming and informal atmosphere, restaurants could encourage more people to dine solo without feeling out of place.

For Mira Fahad, solo dining started as a necessity due to her flexible remote job schedule. “As a morning person, I always wanted to go out during the day but couldn’t find anyone available in the mornings,” she said. Over time, solo dining became a cherished ritual. “It’s one of those ‘I need to do it at least once a month’ things, whether in the mornings or nights.”

She finds the experience peaceful and liberating. “You can choose the time and place to your liking, people-watch, read a book, plan your week, or just savor your meal in peace.” However, she admits that solo dining can lose its charm if overdone, emphasizing the importance of balance.

For some solo diners, cultural perceptions remain a challenge. Linah Al-Ahmadi has been dining alone since 2016 and considers it a normal part of her lifestyle. “I didn’t start this habit recently; I’ve been solo dining since I was a teenager,” she said. While she embraces the experience, she is aware of the societal views that make solo dining an unusual choice in Saudi Arabia. “We are a collective society, and we tend to do things within a circle. As a society, we have this notion that it’s abnormal to do things alone.”

Al-Ahmadi describes dining alone in a culture that values group activities as being “the stranger in the middle of the diner.” Despite this, she remains committed to her choice, valuing the independence and freedom it provides. For her, solo dining is not about isolation but rather about enjoying personal time without depending on others to accompany her.

The growing interest in solo dining presents an opportunity for Saudi restaurants to adapt and cater to individual diners. Al-Ahmadi points out that making reservations for one can be difficult, as many restaurants and apps only accept bookings for groups. 

Additionally, solo diners are often directed to bar seating or shared tables, which may not suit everyone’s preference for privacy.

“I struggle a lot with reservations,” Al-Ahmadi said. “Sometimes, I go out alone with the intention of not socializing, but being at a bar feels too intimate.” She advocates for solo diners to be given the choice of regular tables, creating a more inclusive environment for those who want to enjoy a meal without the company of others.

Mira Fahad offers additional suggestions, including creating solo dining tables in corners or quieter spots and offering digital menus for easy ordering. “Maybe provide small, single-portion meals and digital entertainment options for solo diners,” she said, adding that these touches could make the solo dining experience even more enjoyable.

As more Saudis explore the joys of solo dining, the trend reflects a broader shift in societal norms and individual lifestyles. Young people are carving out spaces for self-reflection and independence, challenging traditional perceptions about social activities. The popularity of solo dining represents a growing acceptance of self-care and personal freedom in Saudi Arabia, where dining alone is no longer seen as a solitary act but rather as a celebration of individuality.

Solo dining is more than just a meal, it is an experience that allows you to connect with yourself in a way that is both empowering and refreshing.
 


Where We Are Going Today: ‘Noto’ Italian cuisine in Jeddah

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Updated 05 November 2024
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Where We Are Going Today: ‘Noto’ Italian cuisine in Jeddah

  • The menu at Noto is as extensive as it is impressive

Nestled in Tahlia street at Jeddah Walk, Noto offers an Italian dining experience inspired by the timeless beauty of Sicily.

Drawing design cues from baroque architecture and Sicilian village charm, this restaurant is decorated with chandeliers, elegantly dressed tables with white linens, and plush, comfortable sofas. The ambiance is perfect for fine dining, with an inviting, lively atmosphere enhanced by live entertainment.

Noto’s dedication to Sicilian culture extends to its logo, which features the symbolic Sicilian lion, and its menu, which presents a harmonious fusion of Greek, Latin, and Arabic influences.

Every dish celebrates the heart of Sicily with flavors that feel both classic and inventive, promising a sensory journey that delights every palate.

The menu at Noto is as extensive as it is impressive. From the antipasti selection, highlights include the ricciola, a delicate yellowtail sashimi with lime vinaigrette and candied tomatoes, and the signature melanzane alla parmigiana, which transforms eggplant into a rich, layered dish.

For something warm, the zuppa di porcini e funghi di stagione is a seasonal mushroom soup that feels both comforting and earthy. For cheese lovers, the burrata al tartufo with truffle adds a luxurious touch to the meal.

In true Italian fashion, the pasta menu is rich, featuring classics like spaghetti al pomodoro with fresh cherry tomatoes and basil, the lasagne alla bolognese, and paccheri al branzino e pomodorini, a seabass pasta paired with juicy cherry tomatoes.

Exclusive offerings like the fettucine al caviale, with caviar, add an elevated twist to traditional Italian fare. Risotto fans will be delighted by the creamy risotto ai funghi, made with seasonal mushrooms.

For main courses, the secondi selection impresses with standout dishes such as the tagliata di black angus, accompanied by a decadent parmesan potato espuma and black truffle jus, and the agnello, succulent lamb chops seasoned with herb oil and sun-dried tomatoes. Diners can also enjoy fiorentina, a perfectly roasted T-bone steak from the grandi piatti menu.

The pizza menu features artisanal options such as the pizza funghi with truffle and mushrooms and the calzone filled with turkey ham and mushroom, offering a taste of Italian comfort.

To end on a sweet note, desserts like the traditional tiramisu and the creamy panna cotta with red berry sauce are satisfying options.

Check @noto.ksa on Instagram for more details.
 

 


Clinique La Prairie CEO talks ‘personalization’ of luxury healthcare ahead of Saudi opening

Updated 05 November 2024
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Clinique La Prairie CEO talks ‘personalization’ of luxury healthcare ahead of Saudi opening

DUBAI: Switzerland-based luxury healthcare resort Clinique La Prairie is set to open in Saudi Arabia’s Amaala wellness retreat next year, with CEO Simone Gibertoni telling Arab News “personalization is fundamental.”

With just 50 rooms, the healthcare resort will offer guests a holistic approach to health and wellness, combining evidence-based medicine with unique well-being, nutrition and movement plans, according to its website.

With just 50 rooms, the healthcare resort will offer guests a holistic approach to health and wellness, combining evidence-based medicine with unique well-being, nutrition
and movement plans, according to its website. (Supplied)

“If you want to be really personalized, you need to cater (for) a very small number of clients,” Gibertoni explained, adding: “Another very important point for me is always to underline the fact that our role is not just to give information, but to change people … intervention must be focused and must be very personalized.”

While the Swiss flagship boasts picturesque views and state of the art facilities, he insists: “The view of the lake is not enough, the nice food is not enough … there must be this idea that you feel better, you feel (like) a kind of new person and that’s why people are coming back.”

The Red Sea resort is not the first outside Switzerland; Clinique La Prairie Anji, on a tea plantation 180km west of Shanghai, China, opened its doors in 2024. Meanwhile, Dubai’s One & Only One Za’abeel hotel is home to a Clinique La Prairie Longevity Hub, billed as a day center rather than a resort-style experience.

When it comes to why the brand selected Saudi Arabia for such an investment, Gibertoni pointed to an alignment in healthcare philosophies.

“For such a big investment in Saudi, we are going to have only 50 rooms. In China, it’s another huge investment and we have only 29 rooms. It’s not easy to find the developer which is able to accept our philosophy and this is happening in Saudi Arabia,” he said.

The CEO also referred to long-term clients from the Gulf who have travelled to the European clinic for decades. The lure of a hub a little closer to home could be another reason for the brand’s latest venture.

Located on Saudi Arabia’s north-western coast, the Amaala resort will feature 30 brands, with Clinique La Prairie billed as one of the anchor offerings.

Last week, Gibertoni was in Dubai to announce the Longevity Fund, an endeavor to identify companies that “revolutionize the landscape of aging, health, and wellbeing.”

The fund will focus on driving science-based advancements in longevity under four banners — medical care, nutrition, movement and well-being.

Gibertoni explained: “Whenever there is a company with an innovation which is on the way to be ready for the market, this company always approaches us. So our question was ‘how can we be more impactful and not only introduce this technology to Clinique La Prairie … but can we also help this company to grow?”


Where We Are Going Today: Mexika restaurant in Riyadh

Updated 04 November 2024
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Where We Are Going Today: Mexika restaurant in Riyadh

Mexika brings a taste of Mexico to the table with a menu balancing classic flavors with vibrant twists, making it an inviting spot for Mexican food lovers in Riyadh.

One standout dish is their burrito, which is not only generous in portion but also packed with tastes that satisfy. The filling is well seasoned and hearty, with fresh ingredients that harmonize.

Other options shine, too. Nachos come topped with sour cream, guacamole and a hint of jalapeno spice, and are available in various sizes costing from SR 8 ($2.13) to SR 19 ($5.06). Or try the quesadillas and empanadas, with choices from chicken to cheese to suit every palate.

For those craving something more substantial, the fajita selections and chicken lemon chimichanga are real highlights.

However, there is one small drawback; some dishes, including the burrito, tend to become soggy rather quickly. A crispier exterior would enhance the texture, maintaining that satisfying crunch.

The menu offers an exciting variety of food, from snackable samosas starting at SR 4 to substantial party boxes ideal for larger gatherings. With everything from light bites to full meals covered, Mexika is a versatile option for any dining occasion and impresses with its portion sizes, flavors and diversity.

For anyone looking to indulge their tastebuds with Mexican cuisine that has a Saudi twist, this place has a lot to offer. Just keep an eye on the texture of that burrito!

For more information, check their Instagram profile, @mexica.sa.


Where We Are Going Today: Dank Sandwich in Riyadh

Updated 03 November 2024
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Where We Are Going Today: Dank Sandwich in Riyadh

Dank Sandwich in Riyadh has become a go-to destination for those craving filling sandwiches.

The menu offers a variety of options, with popular choices like the Philadelphia steak meal for SR39 ($10.40) which features tender steak and melted cheese, and the brisket meal known for its rich, smoky flavor.

For spice lovers, the dynamite meal brings a satisfying kick, while the crispy chicken meal delivers crunch and flavor.

Dank Sandwich also provides a variety of sides to enhance the experience, including classic French fries and sweet potato fries, which add balance to the hearty sandwiches.

For dessert, the choco marshmallow offers a sweet finish, and fresh juices like orange complement the bold flavors of the meals.

A minor drawback, however, is the pricing. While the meals are substantial and flavorful, they might appear a bit pricey for casual dining.

More affordable options could make Dank Sandwich even more appealing for regular visits.

Overall, Dank Sandwich in Riyadh impresses with generous portions and robust flavors, making it an excellent choice for those seeking comfort food with a twist.

For more information, check their Instagram @dank_ksa.