Exploring Bangkok’s ‘Muslim Quarter’

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Halal street food is a common sight in the area.
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From halal culinary delights to pioneering Islamic art, the Bang Rak district is a breath of fresh air.
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A close up of the gift given to the Thai king.
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The peaceful interior of the Haroon Mosque.
Updated 23 October 2017
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Exploring Bangkok’s ‘Muslim Quarter’

BANGKOK: “Only a few years ago there was no such thing as Thai-Islamic art and now a piece of it sits inside the royal palace,” beams Ismail Ywaiyavata, the 39-year-old vice chairman of the Institute of Islamic Art Thailand.
I am sat in a modest-sized room inside the Tuan Suwanasana Chularjmontri Foundation in the Bang Rak district of Bangkok.
All four walls display works of Thai-Islamic art, some lean on tables because of a lack of space. In one corner, a desk with a lamp and open laptop acts as Ywaiyavata’s office. Next to that, on an artist’s drawing board, bamboo quills lie scattered across pieces of calligraphy.
The building is also multi-functional, serving as a community hall and a school.
The Bang Rak district is noted for its upmarket hotels and old European-style architecture, but I am here because it is also where one of Bangkok’s largest concentration of Muslims live and Ywaiyavata, a popular member of this so-called “Muslim Quarter,” is heading up its most exciting new project.
“Thai people don’t know about Islamic art. We want to use it to promote the beauty of Islam. That is why we are developing our own modern interpretation of a Thai-Islamic art style,” he said.
Of medium build, Ywaiyavata’s round face has a typically light beard. He is wearing a round collared, navy blue top with stonewashed denim jeans. A fine art graduate, Ywaiyavata founded the institute in April 2016 alongside local lawyer, Abdul Samad, calligrapher, Ustad Suleiman and Islamic art graduate, Shareef Toleb. Within a few months, they were given the opportunity to seek royal approval.
Last December, they presented the king with a piece of their pioneering work.
“We wanted to show the king how our art style brings the two cultures together. The design we presented took the popular Thai lotus flower and applied the Islamic artistic principles of geometry and repetition to create a frame inside which we wrote his name in Arabic calligraphy.”
The exquisite piece has a circular frame of mesmeric lotus flowers that echo patterns seen all over Thailand, from architecture to clothing. In the middle, the king’s full name, Maha Vajiralongkorn Bodindradebayavarangkun, is artistically inscribed in Arabic calligraphy. Made by placing gold leaf onto the finest black Thai silk, the result is stunning and made quite the impression.
“The king asked me about the patterns and how we came up with the idea. He agreed it was a beautiful way to present Islamic culture in Thailand,” Ywaiyavata said.
However, Ywaiyavata’s institute is not just about calligraphy.
Two of the largest pieces on display are by award-winning female Thai artist, Thidarat Chantachua.
Using colored threading on black canvas, Chantachua’s semi-abstract, geometric patterns present an echo of arabesque architecture.
The institute has also begun work on the first-ever Qur’an to be decorated with the new Thai-Islamic design style.
When we head outside, Ywaiyavata shows me where the institute hopes to soon be permanently based — a pretty house, complete with pale blue wooden slats. Like many buildings in Bang Rak, it is more European than Thai.
Muslims in Bangkok
As we walk down the narrow back streets of the Muslim quarter, we pass doors with “bismillah” written above them. Turning a corner, the air becomes smoky and filled with the whiff of roasting meat. A hijab-wearing Thai woman stands grilling satay sticks on a food cart labelled “halal.”
The woman smiles warmly and returns our greetings. Above her, a green sign announces the Haroon Mosque, one of the oldest in Bangkok.
Mohammed Kanzi, a local postgraduate student of Islamic history and a volunteer at the institute, tells me the story behind the mosque.
“It was named after Haroon Bafadel, whose father was an Indonesian-Arab trader from south Borneo. He built a wooden mosque in the Javanese style on the banks of the Chao Phraya in 1837.”
Bafadel’s father, Musa, arrived long before Bangkok became the huge metropolis it is today. Back then, the mosque stood in a village called Tom Samrong, outside the capital.
“This is why the mosque’s first name was the Tom Samrong Mosque. Then, in 1899, the Thai government wanted the land to build a customs house and the mosque was rebuilt inland.”
The first rebuild was also wooden, but in 1934, a brick building was constructed in the style of the surrounding architecture. As a result, the Haroon Mosque looks more like a European townhouse than an oriental institute, complete with neo-classical floral motifs, mock romanesque pillars and wooden shutters.
“The only distinguishing Islamic feature was that crescent and star mold up there,” my guide said as he pointed toward the ceiling.
Ywaiyavata and I strain to see where our guide is pointing — high up on the apex roof’s brickwork, a gold-and-green crescent and star can just about be made out.
Origins of Thai-Islamic art
Once inside, the real reason I was brought here becomes apparent. At the front of the prayer hall, two ornate wooden structures stand in stark contrast to the mosque’s otherwise simple, plain interior.
“This unique mehrab and mimbar might also be called Islamic-Thai art style. The mehrab reminds us of the royal barges on our rivers and has Arabic and French influence. Meanwhile, the mimbar is a cross between a Muslim and traditional Thai throne,” Mohammed said.
The Muslim Quarter
The Haroon Mosque is one of many in Bang Rak. There is also the Ban Oou Mosque, Faizane Madina and the brilliantly-named Thai-Pakistan Friendship Mosque.
Thailand’s capital is home to the largest concentration of Muslims in the country and Bang Rak’s community wonderful reflects this diversity. Mohammed explained how many reached the shores of Thailand.
“We know Muslim traders were in contact with Thailand since the early times of Islam and this led to conversions and inter-marriage along the Malay peninsula, so many Muslims here have Malay and Middle Eastern ancestry. Others are Thai whose families converted sometime in history and then there are those from the Indian Sub-Continent that came here as sea merchants centuries ago.”
Mohammed’s own ethnic ancestry is Malay and Chinese, while Ywaiyavata traces his paternal roots to southern Thailand and his maternal roots back to Hadhramaut in Yemen.
The ethnic diversity is also reflected in the halal eateries of Bang Rak. Places serving Indian, Pakistani and Middle Eastern food rub shoulders with halal Thai eateries and Muslim grocery stores are more abundant here than in most other parts of Bangkok.
In a city famous for its hedonism, Bang Rak presents a refreshing haven for Muslim travelers headed to Thailand’s capital city.


Review: A visit to AlUla’s ancient kingdom ‘Wadi Al-Naam’

Photo by Sulafa Alkhunaizi
Updated 26 November 2024
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Review: A visit to AlUla’s ancient kingdom ‘Wadi Al-Naam’

  • Exploration was organized in groups of three riding in desert buggies to reach the hiking location

The Quest for the Ancient Kingdoms is a thrilling treasure hunt and adventure experience in AlUla’s Wadi Al-Naam, also known as the Valley of the Ostriches.

Before the journey begins, participants are provided with helmets, gloves, and hiking sticks, and are treated to a short lesson about the valley by the tour guide.

During our visit, the guide did a wonderful job making the group feel comfortable and translating the lesson from Arabic to English.

Exploration was organized in groups of three riding in desert buggies to reach the hiking location.

The buggy ride is a great chance to enjoy the iconic orange-hued rocks and mountains of AlUla.

At the first stop, participants can get a closer look at the fine details of inscriptions that tell the story of the Dadanites, the ancient residents of AlUla.

The 500-meter-long hike features various obstacles, like climbing up walls and steep steps, while offering breathtaking views of the unforgettable AlUla terrain.

Participants can choose between the Challenge Edition for adult adventurers or the Family Explorers version for a lighter experience. The treasure hunts are ideal for family or friend groups who want to get active during their trip to AlUla.

The quest concludes with a certificate of completion, refreshments, and a chance to interact with camels.

The best part of the experience is connecting with new individuals and putting your heads together to problem-solve as a team to win the quest.

Before going on this journey, please ensure you apply sunscreen, wear comfortable shoes, and stay hydrated as it will involve physical strength and energy to enjoy.

The Wadi Al-Naam Discovery tour costs SR200 ($53) per person and will be open until Feb. 27.

For more details, visit experiencealula.com.

 


UK, Omani princes launch journey across historic Arabian route

Updated 26 November 2024
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UK, Omani princes launch journey across historic Arabian route

  • Camel trek first taken by British diplomat Bertram Thomas in 1928 to be retrodden by team of six travellers
  • Prince of Wales, crown prince of Oman sponsoring historic coastal journey

LONDON: A group of explorers, backed by royalty, is set to undertake a historic journey, retracing a route across the coast of Oman first trodden by a British diplomat almost a century ago.

The Jewel of Arabia expedition, supported by William, Prince of Wales and Omani Crown Prince Theyazin bin Haitham, will feature six travelers, led by Mark Evans, following in the footsteps of Bertram Thomas, who first made the journey over 42 days in 1928.

Thomas made the trek to document the area and local wildlife, and was congratulated on his achievement by King George V.

The new journey, featuring camels but also modern off-road vehicles, will “raise awareness among young people both in and outside of Oman of the value of Oman’s natural heritage and biodiversity as well as the environmental challenges the country and the wider world face,” The Telegraph reported.

It will also feature podcasts and radio interviews with local stations along the way, meetings with local children and an online tracker so people can view its progress in real time.

Prince William told the modern explorers at the Royal Geographical Society on Monday: “I wish I was able to join you, but will be following very closely.”

He added: “The expedition will walk in the footsteps of British explorer Bertram Thomas and take in the wonderful coastline of Oman.

“They will be able to take in the beauty of Oman, and also see the damage done by climate change.”

Prince William added: “The expedition will not only highlight Oman’s biodiversity and natural heritage, but also symbolize the enduring friendship between our two countries.”

The prince added to guests at the Royal Geographic Society that he would “try and make something happen” regarding a future visit to Oman, teasing: “We’re in the planning process.”

The trek will see daily starts around 5 a.m. local time, and will aim to cross 25-30 kilometers per day. The travelers will sleep under the night sky, surviving in the desert without tents.

Evans, 63, said: “The stars of the show will undoubtedly be the camels.”

He joked that the animals are now in a “camel boot camp” in Oman to prepare for the arduous trek.

Alongside Evans will be Nigel Harling, Ana-Maria Pavalache, Dhirka Al-Mawali, Ibrahim Al-Hasni and Amour Al-Wahibi, all of whom are experienced explorers.

Thomas’ original expedition came at a time when the region was considered one of the world’s most inhospitable, known as Rub Al-Khali, or the “empty quarter.”

He worked for the sultan of Oman, and became the first Westerner to make the journey along the coast, spending much of his spare time exploring the country, navigating harsh terrain and warring local tribes.

Upon completion, he received a congratulatory telegram from George V, and used the experience as the basis for a book, “Arabia Felix,” which contains a foreword by T.E. Lawrence.

Meanwhile, 2025 will also mark 225 years since the signing of a friendship treaty between Britain and Oman.


Al-Baha farms offer an escape from busy lives

The farms are committed to sustainability and use eco-friendly practices to protect the environment. (SPA)
Updated 19 November 2024
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Al-Baha farms offer an escape from busy lives

  • There are activities such as cycling and hiking and some farms offer overnight accommodation

AL-BAHA: People seeking a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of their daily lives are flocking to tourist farms in Al-Baha region.

The centers offer a unique blend of natural beauty, agricultural experiences and recreational activities, where visitors can spend their time picking fruit, helping with crop harvesting or learning about organic farming techniques.

The farms are committed to sustainability and use eco-friendly practices to protect the environment. (SPA)

There are also activities such as cycling and hiking and some farms offer overnight accommodation, enabling guests to experience the beauty of the starry night skies.

The farms are committed to sustainability and use eco-friendly practices to protect the environment.

Fahd Al-Zahrani, director of the Ministry of Environment, Water and Agriculture branch in Al-Baha, said agritourism was becoming increasingly important in the region as it created jobs, boosted the local economy and helped diversify the tourism sector.

 


Virtual, AI-powered Saudi travel companion impresses visitors at travel exhibition in London

SARA was on show in the Visit Saudi pavilion at the World Travel Market, which began on Monday and concluded on Wednesday. (SPA)
Updated 09 November 2024
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Virtual, AI-powered Saudi travel companion impresses visitors at travel exhibition in London

  • The new app, called SARA, offers users insights and advice about the Kingdom’s tourist attractions in a natural and seamless conversational style

RIYADH: The Saudi Tourism Authority unveiled the beta version of SARA, its new travel companion app for visitors to the Kingdom, at the World Travel Market exhibition in London this week.

It allows users to interact with a digital female guide, powered by AI, who is deeply knowledgeable about Saudi Arabia and offers insights and advice about the country’s tourist destinations, historical landmarks, archaeological sites, cultural diversity, international events, and anything else a visitor might be interested in.

SARA was on show in the Visit Saudi pavilion at the World Travel Market, which began on Monday and concluded on Wednesday. Officials said she interacted directly with attendees, who were captivated by her engaging stories about the Kingdom’s tourist attractions and experiences, and the extensive information she was able to provide.

The app reflects the nation’s progressive approach to smart tourism, they added, and leverages the latest developments in AI so that it can respond to questions, understand visitor needs, and offer personalized information and suggestions in a natural and seamless conversational style.

 


Off the beaten track in Sri Lanka 

Updated 08 November 2024
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Off the beaten track in Sri Lanka 

  • New visa rules have made it easier than ever for Gulf tourists to visit the island nation 

TORONTO: Sri Lanka has long been a favored destination for visitors from the Gulf. Easy access, budget-friendly offerings, and diverse experiences – from cultural and historic landmarks to idyllic beach resorts and scenic treks – make it an ideal getaway destination. And now, there’s one more reason for Saudis to take a trip to the island nation. Last month, the Sri Lankan government announced that residents of Saudi Arabia, the UAE, Qatar, Oman, and 31 other countries can now visit without a visa.  

The capital, Colombo, is probably the most popular destination in Sri Lanka, along with Kandy and Ella, but the less-frequented areas in the central and southern regions of the country are well worth considering.  

The Summerville Bungalow in Hatton. (Supplied)

My Sri Lanka trip started in Hatton, in the Nuwara Eliya region. Often called “Little England,” the region is a reminder of the country’s former colonial rule, with Tudor-style architecture and sprawling tea estates named after their former British proprietors.  

The central province is home to Sri Lanka’s renowned tea highlands. Tea is an integral part of the island’s history and culture — as its former name, Ceylon, suggests. 

My encounter with Ceylon tea starts at the Dunkeld Tea Factory, owned by The Dilmah Group, a family-run business that has become a global name. The tea is single-origin — meaning it is picked, cultivated, and packed from the lush, rolling terraces of the region. The tour takes guests through the history of Ceylon tea, which actually began with coffee plantations in the 18th century. But leaf disease devastated those plantations, leading to the demise of the short-lived coffee industry in Sri Lanka. In 1867, James Taylor, a Scottish man, planted the first tea clearing in Kandy. By the late 19th century, the country had become one of the largest tea producers in the world. Guests are also invited to a tea-tasting experience, including the Orange Pekoe, the robust tea blend that is a specialty of the region. 

The terraces of a tea plantation around the Ceylon Tea Trail. (Supplied)

I stayed at Summerville, one of the five palatial bungalows once home to English plantation owners which have now been refurbished into boutique properties by the Ceylon Tea Trails Hotel under the Resplendent Ceylon Group. Perched at nearly 4,000 feet and set across 2,000 hectares, the bungalows are perfect for those seeking a slow, luxurious vacation. Guests can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the emerald hilltops from various vantage points or unwind in the several tranquil lounge spaces scattered throughout the bungalows. Or — with a private chef and butler on hand — choose to indulge in a five-course dinner that features the likes of a Yatawatte tea-infused roasted chicken or the Earl Gray fondant. 

The tea trails, ranging from four to 15 kilometers long, connect the various bungalows, offering scenic hikes through the valleys. For those seeking adventure, the newly-inaugurated Pekoe Trail (a 300-km route with 22 phases) allows tourists to explore the rich biodiversity of the area. This trail can be experienced on foot or by rail. 

The Wild Coast Tented Lodge in Sri Lanka. (Supplied)

The next leg of my trip was drastically different. As we were making our way down from the central region to Sri Lanka’s southern tip, the hilltops, winding roads, and cool weather gave way to palm trees, speedy tuk-tuks, and tropical weather. 

In the Hambantota district, the biggest draw is undoubtedly Yala National Park, the second largest national park of the country, and the one with the highest density of leopards. An early morning or afternoon game drive provides ample opportunities to spot wildlife, including the elusive leopard, sloth bears, and elephants.  

After the adrenaline rush of a wildlife safari, I head to our ‘glamping’ lodge — the Wild Coast Tented Lodge, another one of Resplendent Ceylon’s properties. The luxury camp is unfenced and wildlife will often wander into the premises from the park, giving guests a sometimes-gleeful, sometimes-terrifying experience.  

The lodge itself is an architectural delight, focusing on sustainable design and the use of organic materials, including bamboo. It includes 28 “cocoons” or pods scattered throughout the jungle wilderness. The interiors feature rustic touches like cooper hardware, a leopard-claw bathtub, and vintage leather furniture. 

It’s also here that the jungle meets the Indian Ocean. As I wandered along the rugged coastline or enjoyed a sundowner, I was once again reminded of the serenity that Sri Lanka has to offer.