Extreme dining in Shanghai: French chef’s twist on haute cuisine

Staff members of Ultraviolet restaurant serve their guests inside the dining room in Shanghai. A van spirits Ultraviolet restaurant’s ten nightly diners to its secret Shanghai location where they enter a minimalist dining room to Wagner’s theme from “2001: A Space Odyssey.” French chef Paul Pairet immerses guests in a 360-degree parade of sights, sounds and smells tailored to evoke a matching sense of “place” for each dish in one of the most unique — and expensive — dining experiences on the planet. (AFP/Chandan Khanna)
Updated 06 November 2017
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Extreme dining in Shanghai: French chef’s twist on haute cuisine

SHANGHAI: A van spirits ten guests to a secret location in Shanghai, where they enter a non-descript industrial building as Strauss’s theme from “2001: A Space Odyssey” fills the air.
Inside is avant-garde restaurant Ultraviolet, the city’s newest three-star Michelin eatery, where adventurous gourmands happily pay up to 6,000 yuan ($900) per head and the waitlist for a seat is three months.
The group dines on 22 courses — each one served in an atmosphere tailored to that dish and created by video and other images projected on the walls, pumped-in aromas, and its own soundtrack.
French chef Paul Pairet, 53, says the aim is to “connect the dots” between the mind and palate by triggering “the right atmosphere, linked to the right plate,” which he believes helps to enhance the flavours of each dish.
Guests take a culinary world tour, while mood music ranges from Claude Debussy to AC/DC: Pairet’s take on fish-and-chips comes in a London rainshower to the Beatles’ “Ob-La-Di, Ob-La-Da,” while lobster is served as footage of ocean waves crashes on the walls and the scent of sea air is blown in.
“You are using all your different senses to feel this experience,” Cheryl Chen, a Shanghai consultant, dining at Ultraviolet, explains.
“It’s multi-dimensional versus others that probably have good food and a good environment, but this is one of a kind,” she adds.

Pairet, who already has two other highly regarded ‘traditional restaurants’ in Shanghai, first made his name as a chef at Cafe Mosaic in Paris in the 1990s before stints in Istanbul, Hong Kong, Sydney and Jakarta.
Ultraviolet was more than two decades in the making, he explains.
Its continued success, five years after it first opened, is testament to Shanghai’s burgeoning food scene — Michelin launched a dedicated guide for the city in 2016 — the only one in mainland China.
It also indicates the growing disposable income and culinary curiosity of Shanghai citizens.
Pairet says consumer interest actually increased after he put up Ultraviolet’s prices to cover costs.
He explains: “When we increased the price of Ultraviolet — we needed to sustain the whole project, there was no other way — after a certain level of price at 6000 RMB, we had an increase of Chinese customers.”


Where We Are Going Today: ‘Sign’ burgers in Riyadh

Sign’s burger is soft, juicy, and proof that sometimes, simplicity wins. (Supplied)
Updated 03 May 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: ‘Sign’ burgers in Riyadh

  • One of the highlights was the Sign box, which includes four burgers and four fries, ideal for gatherings

If you’re in Riyadh and looking for a burger spot that delivers on both taste and value, Sign should be on your list.

With eye-catching pink branding and loyal customers, it is clear they have tapped into a winning formula: simple, good food done right.

I tried their classic burger meal, which includes fries and a drink, and was genuinely surprised to get all that flavor for just SR24 ($6.40). The patty was juicy, the bun soft, and the sauce had the perfect tang without overpowering the rest of the ingredients. It felt well-balanced and satisfying, not greasy or heavy.

One of the highlights was the Sign box, which includes four burgers and four fries, ideal for gatherings. Sign uses locally sourced ingredients from Saudi farms, which is also a major plus — you can taste the difference in the quality of the meat and vegetables.

Whether you’re grabbing a quick bite through their drive-thru or sitting down with friends, it’s a spot that gets it right without overcomplicating things.

If there is one downside, it is the wait. The place is almost always packed — a sign (no pun intended) of how popular it has become. But if you are happy to queue, it is absolutely worth checking out.

For more, check their Instagram @signsa_

 


Where We Are Going Today: ‘Avindar Lounge’ in Riyadh

Updated 02 May 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: ‘Avindar Lounge’ in Riyadh

  • The lights are dimmed every Tuesday night for a candlelit experience with a pianist playing live music, creating an atmospheric experience for guests

With four locations across the Kingdom’s capital, Avindar Lounge offers a space where you can enjoy lush greenery and good food.

The lounge I visited is located on the northeast side of Riyadh and includes a separate section for smokers.

The menu is diverse and appeals to different tastes, so you can sample anything from Middle Eastern kebabs to pasta and burgers.

The lights are dimmed every Tuesday night for a candlelit experience with a pianist playing live music, creating an atmospheric experience for guests.

I tried the mixed appetizer, which was flavorful and memorable. It included hummus, tabouli, dolma, and baba ghanoush.

And while I am generally not a fan of sweet beverages, I genuinely enjoyed their hot chocolate, which was not overwhelmingly sweet or creamy.

However, considering the portion sizes, which are enough for one person, customers might find the prices a bit high.

But the music and bird sounds, paired with the lounge’s colorful and cozy interior, make Avindar a refreshing spot for dining or coffee with friends.

 


Where We Are Going Today: ‘Dakkat Haretna’ restaurant in Riyadh

Updated 30 April 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: ‘Dakkat Haretna’ restaurant in Riyadh

Located in the bustling Al-Munsiyah neighborhood of Riyadh, Dakkat Haretna is a charming eatery that captures the essence of Saudi Arabia cuisine.

The interior is adorned with Qatt Asiri art, traditional Saudi motifs that resonate with the spirit of the region. The windows, designed in the Hijazi roshan style, add to the charming appeal of the space which is cozy and family friendly.

Behind the menu is chef Douha Al-Otaishan, whose vision brings to life dishes that celebrate the rich culinary heritage of Saudi Arabia.

I sampled the beetroot salad, which had refreshing ingredients, complemented by feta cheese balls and crisp lettuce, that set the stage for the main course.

The marqooq beef and “happiness kabsa,” Al-Otaishan’s signature dish, were both memorable. I polished off the flavorful marqooq in no time.

The kabsa, with its tender chicken, was delightful despite the rice being a tad drier than what I usually enjoy. The accompanying tangy red sauce elevated the dish by adding a burst of flavor.

Other notable options for those wishing to explore Saudi cuisine are jareesh, qursan, and kubaiba Hail.

Their breakfast menu is equally enticing, providing classics including tamees, foul, and shakshooka, available from 7 a.m.

If you enjoy cooking and want to recreate Saudi dishes at home, the restaurant also offers the chef’s blends of spices.

With attentive service, fair prices, and a calm ambiance free of noisy music, Dakkat Haretna is a comfortable place to enjoy traditional dishes or try something new.

Whether you are familiar with Saudi cuisine or just curious, it is a spot worth visiting.


Where We Are Going Today: ‘Olala Roastery’ – coffee roasters in Saudi Arabia

Inside the boxes by Olala Roastery — creative packaging and curated blends for your daily caffeine ritual.
Updated 29 April 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: ‘Olala Roastery’ – coffee roasters in Saudi Arabia

  • The packaging is part of the Olala experience — lively illustrations, custom stickers and even branded takeaway cups. Every element reflects fun and youthful energy, making it perfect for gifting or for coffee lovers with an eye for design

Olala Roastery is one of the most recognizable names among local coffee roasters in Saudi Arabia.

I tried two of their signature boxes: Nsahsah (Wake Me Up) and Mw Eadi (Not Your Usual), each with labeled blends and a colorful unboxing experience.

The Not Your Usual box featured two exceptional beans — vista and roza. Vista quickly became a favorite, thanks to its smooth body, light acidity, and a finish that felt both clean and vibrant. It was the kind of coffee that stood out from the first cup. I finished it so quickly — it was the best I have ever tried.

Roza, with its subtle fruity tones, offered a more delicate profile that worked beautifully for slower mornings.

The packaging is part of the Olala experience — lively illustrations, custom stickers and even branded takeaway cups. Every element reflects fun and youthful energy, making it perfect for gifting or for coffee lovers with an eye for design.

One drawback, however, was the inconsistency between the flavor notes written on some of the packaging and the actual taste of the coffee. The flavor profiles were not as clear or defined as described, which may leave some drinkers guessing — especially those who choose beans based on specific expectations.

Still, Olala Roastery delivers fresh, well-roasted coffee wrapped in a full sensory experience, making it a creative and proudly Saudi addition to the specialty coffee scene.

For more information, check @olala.roastery on Instagram.

 


Where We Are Going Today: Ashwag restaurant in Jeddah

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Updated 28 April 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: Ashwag restaurant in Jeddah

  • Ashwag’s cozy atmosphere offers comfort and privacy, making it a perfect spot for families

If you are craving comforting Turkish flavors in a cozy, family-friendly setting, Ashwag restaurant in Jeddah is the place to go.

Since 1975, Ashwag has been a favorite for families seeking authentic Turkish food in Jeddah and Makkah. For many of us who grew up in Jeddah, it holds a special place in our hearts.

The menu features traditional dishes including mixed grills, juicy shish tawook, shawarma platters, meat with eggplant, and more.

My top pick is the Iskender meat: tender shawarma-style cuts over soft Turkish bread soaked in ghee, topped with tomato sauce, and served with fresh, creamy yogurt. It is a dish that brings back weekend family memories.

Ashwag’s cozy atmosphere offers comfort and privacy, making it a perfect spot for families. The decor blends vintage charm with a classic feel, creating a warm and welcoming vibe.

For dessert, try their baklava, sutlac (rice pudding), kunafa, caramel pudding, and basbousa. All pair wonderfully with Turkish tea to finish your meal.

With Turkish pies, rich tajines, and plenty of vegetarian options, Ashwag offers a great balance of tradition and variety. There is something for everyone.

For more details, check Instagram @ashwag_restaurant.