DHI SAHZ, AFGHANISTAN: Afghan farmer Abdul Jalil Gulzar sits by a pile of raisins in the squat mud brick shed where generations of his family have dried their grape harvest.
Such traditional huts have long been used to hang and desiccate the fruit, but now the keshmesh khanas — the Dari term for raisin houses — are getting a facelift as Afghanistan looks to improve its yield.
The country once accounted for 10 percent of the global raisin market, but nearly four decades of conflict have driven its share of the world market down to just 2-3 percent.
In a bid to boost productivity and earnings, the agriculture ministry and aid groups are financing new modern khanas.
“The new raisin house has much more capacity and they have a single purpose (to dry the grapes),” Gulzar told AFP inside the rustic khana built by his father in Dhi Sabz district near Kabul.
The Afghan agricultural sector, is the main driver of the economy and biggest employer.
Hajji Malek Zabet shows off his new brick raisin house near the Afghan capital. Inside the cement-floored room are neat rows of metal hanging racks where grapes drape down like vines in a jungle.
Afghanistan boasts nearly 100 varieties of grapes which are grown across the country and celebrated in popular poetry, nursery rhymes and proverbs.
In the absence of a winemaking industry, which is prohibited in the Islamic country, many farmers turn their grapes into raisins which are easier to conserve and bring a higher price.
Fresh grapes sell for an average of 300 afghanis (about $4.50) for seven kilogrammes, while just one kilogramme of raisins fetches more than 1,000 afghanis.
Though the profits are nothing compared to the amount farmers can reap from what is now Afghanistan’s biggest export: opium, the lifeblood of the Taliban insurgency and an economic lynchpin for many Afghans.
A recent UN report showed that the area under poppy cultivation has hit a record high, underscoring the importance of providing farmers with successful alternatives.
Afghanistan produced nearly 900,000 tons of grapes last year. However it only exported a fraction — 111,000 tons of fresh grapes and 15,000 tons of raisins, according to government data.
A lack of cold storage facilities and strict import requirements in many overseas markets means the bulk of Afghanistan’s grape crop ends up being sold in local bazaars at harvest time, causing a glut and driving down prices.
“Basically these new keshmesh khanas have three effects: they remove fresh grapes from the market and improve the quality of the process and product, and support prices,” said Abdul Samad Kamawi, national horticulture coordinator at the agriculture ministry.
But even with the improvements, Afghanistan’s rudimentary growing and processing methods means accessing export markets beyond Pakistan, India, the UAE and Russia is difficult.
“Despite their know-how Afghans are still struggling to meet European criteria which are increasingly stringent,” a Western importer told AFP.
Some companies are going hi-tech to lift the quality of their raisins.
Tabasom, a major exporter, has two production lines in Kabul equipped with X-ray machines and metal detectors to ensure only the best raisins are packed and sent abroad.
The drying process in the new brick and cement khanas is quicker and cleaner, but Gulzar is stubbornly keeping his earthen raisin house where his family often seeks shelter during the hot summer months.
“They are cooler,” he said, sitting happily on the dirt floor surrounded by hay and bunches of garlic.
Afghan raisin houses get a facelift to boost productivity
Afghan raisin houses get a facelift to boost productivity
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Ruhi’ - Indian dishes in Riyadh
- The restaurant’s open kitchen lets you watch as skilled chefs prepare your meal, adding an interactive element to the dining experience
Experience the vibrant flavors of Mumbai right in the heart of Riyadh at Ruhi, located in The Zone.
This restaurant offers a delightful array of Indian dishes. From fragrant biryani to creamy butter chicken, there’s something for everyone, vegetarians included.
A standout feature of Ruhi is the ability to customize the spice level of your dishes — perfect for those who prefer milder flavors.
The restaurant’s open kitchen lets you watch as skilled chefs prepare your meal, adding an interactive element to the dining experience.
For lunch, they offer attractive deals, including a combo featuring chicken curry or butter chicken, salad, plain rice, naan, and a soft drink for just SR85 ($23). For beef lovers, a similar lunch option is available for only SR95.
Don’t forget to explore the dessert menu, where you can indulge in unique treats like the citrus mango baba and the praline dome.
Signature dishes include jasmine ka jhinga, featuring jumbo prawns marinated in Kashmiri saffron and jasmine, and patta sarson ke murg, crispy chicken served with Ruhi’s special sauce.
Ruhi is open daily from noon to 1:30 a.m., making it a convenient option for lunch or late-night cravings.
For more details, check out @ruhi.ksa on Instagram.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Madeo’s at VIA Riyadh
Madeo at VIA Riyadh offers a charming Italian experience, bringing the warmth and flavors of Italy to Saudi Arabia.
Known for its classic pasta and pizza, Madeo excels in creating dishes that are simple yet packed with flavor. The live pasta station allows diners to watch as chefs prepare favorites like penne Madeo, featuring tomato sauce, basil, and Parmigiano Reggiano — a comforting and classic Italian taste.
Another favorite is the melanzane alla parmigiana, a dish combining layers of eggplant, mozzarella, and tomato sauce to create a hearty, cheesy delight.
The pizza selection includes the four-cheese pizza, which brings together gorgonzola, mascarpone, goat cheese, and mozzarella, topped with a hint of truffle oil for an aromatic finish.
The burrata pizza, featuring fresh and sun-dried tomatoes, adds a balance of creamy and tangy flavors that’s simply delightful.
For dessert, diners can enjoy Madeo’s classic tiramisu or hazelnut-filled profiteroles, both of which bring a sweet, satisfying end to the meal. Drinks like the basil smash, a mix of basil leaves, apple juice, and tonic, and the amaretto sour with orange and lemon juice, add refreshing options to complement the Italian flavors.
One downside is that parking at VIA Riyadh is not complimentary, which could be inconvenient for some guests.
Nevertheless, Madeo’s warm ambiance, authentic Italian dishes, and live Italian music make it a perfect destination for anyone looking to enjoy Italian cuisine in a lively setting.
For more information, check their Instagram @madeoristorante.sa.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Otium Concept’ in Jeddah
- The dessert selection continues the theme of indulgence with offerings including rose lokum cheesecake adorned with fresh petals, and an apple tarte fine served with vanilla ice cream
Otium Concept is located in Fayfa Avenue Mall on Prince Sultan Road in Jeddah. It is a lifestyle store and restaurant/cafe inspired by the glamour of art deco salons.
The cafe offers a thoughtfully crafted menu that combines international comfort foods with artisanal ingredients. Breakfast options include classics such as eggs Benedict on brioche and the cafe’s signature Beirut breakfast, featuring foul, labneh, and halloumi.
For lighter options, there are wholesome choices like Greek yogurt bowls with granola and honey, or acai bowls topped with fresh berries.
Starters, including burrata with pesto and tomato caviar, and beetroot carpaccio with hazelnuts and goat cheese, are well-presented, while from the main courses, the grilled pistachio salmon is a highlight, offering a delicate-yet-rich flavor profile, while the honey mustard chicken provides a savory-sweet experience with a tender, juicy texture.
The dessert selection continues the theme of indulgence with offerings including rose lokum cheesecake adorned with fresh petals, and an apple tarte fine served with vanilla ice cream.
The menu also features hearty salads and sourdough open sandwiches including spicy chicken or lobster, offering a comforting and satisfying meal on the go, as well as fresh pasta dishes such as lemon spaghetti and penne arrabbiata.
With its sophisticated-but-inviting atmosphere, Otium promises a dining experience that is both comforting and refined, making it a great choice for any occasion. Otium also offers catering services.
The boutique provides a distinct shopping experience, showcasing handpicked pieces from celebrated European designers. The space feels like a curated gallery, with brands including Forte Forte, Jamin Puech, and Yavi offering clothing, accessories, shoes, bags, and even decorative home items.
Otium also embraces its cultural side with an impressive collection of art and antiques, curated by architect Ibrahim Radwan. The gallery space features an eclectic mix of sculptures and paintings, blending history with modernity. Notable pieces include a Napoleon III-era mantel clock, an antique bronze statue of a German soldier, and vintage French candelabras.
Check @otiumconcept on Instagram for more details.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Le Relais de l’Entrecote’ in Jeddah
- No French meal would be complete without dessert, and Le Relais de l’Entrecote offers an array of indulgent options to finish on a sweet note
Le Relais de l’Entrecote, located at Fayfa Avenue on Al-Tahlia Street in Jeddah, offers a French dining experience that brings a piece of Paris to the city. Every element of this restaurant, from its traditional bistro decor to the attentive hospitality, reflects the essence of France.
The atmosphere inside is cozy and intimate, while the outdoor terrace provides an ideal setting for open-air dining when the weather is right.
Known for its single-dish concept, Le Relais de l’Entrecote serves only one main course: a classic steak and fries. This approach, honed since the restaurant’s beginnings in Paris in 1959, allows the chefs to perfect their offering.
The meal kicks off with a simple, flavorful green salad tossed in a mustard vinaigrette and garnished with crushed walnuts. Following this, diners are served a tender steak, cooked to their liking, and accompanied by crispy fries.
Though the menu is straightforward, the quality and attention to detail elevate the dining experience. While waiting for the main course, guests are treated to a basket of freshly baked French baguette. Be cautious, though — the bread is so delicious, it can be tempting to fill up before the main event arrives.
No French meal would be complete without dessert, and Le Relais de l’Entrecote offers an array of indulgent options to finish on a sweet note.
Among the choices are creme brulee, with its delicate, caramelized crust; a strawberry melba with fresh strawberries, vanilla ice cream, and a splash of red currant coulis; and chocolate profiteroles, which feature light pastry filled with vanilla ice cream and topped with warm chocolate sauce and toasted almonds.
Other delights include the rich Sevigne chocolate cake served with Chantilly cream; the refreshing raspberry sorbet with fresh berries and raspberry liqueur; and the Summer Vacherin, a mix of meringues, vanilla ice cream, and raspberry sorbet topped with raspberry coulis and Chantilly cream.
Though a two-course meal here may be on the pricier side, the quality of ingredients and the distinctive dining experience make it worth trying at least once in a lifetime — an ideal choice for a special occasion, rather than an everyday outing.
Check @lerelaisentrecote on Instagram for more details.
Ayman Al-Zubaidi: Bringing authentic Saudi flavors to London’s culinary scene
- The founder of London’s Hijazi Corner was hopeless in the kitchen, but his move abroad sparked a desire to recreate the cuisine of his homeland
LONDON: Ayman Al-Zubaidi — the acclaimed chef behind Hijazi Corner, London’s first Saudi Arabian restaurant — has cooked for dignitaries, diplomats, celebrities and even the Kingdom’s royal family. But his most discerning critics were waiting for him much closer to home.
In 2021, after several years living in London, Al-Zubaidi came home to Jeddah. But instead of the football shirt his family had pictured him wearing after his UK studies in sports science, he returned in chef whites. It was a transformation that no one saw coming — least of all him.
Growing up in Jeddah’s Al-Sabeel district with his sister and three brothers, Al-Zubaidi could barely boil his own water. The kitchen was strictly his mother’s territory, and his late-night culinary ventures didn’t go far beyond packets of instant noodles. But now, the tables had turned, and his mother was seated as his guest.
“When I first moved to the UK, I was clueless in the kitchen, so I called her for help,” Al-Zubaidi tells Arab News from his restaurant in London’s de facto Arab district of Edgware Road. It was her loving mentorship that laid the foundations for his culinary journey, shaping his path to becoming one of London’s most distinctive chefs.
“When any chef starts to speak about food, they talk about their mum. Her chicken kabsa is a bit oily, a bit shiny and looks amazing — even just talking about it now I become hungry,” Al-Zubaidi says. “But even if I had the same ingredients and made it the same way, hers would always taste better.”
Building on family recipes honed over decades by his ancestors in Yemen, Al Zubaidi’s Hijazi Corner is the only place in the UK capital where Saudis can find a true taste of home.
Lined with thick carpets and ornate window paneling evoking the buildings of Jeddah’s Al-Balad historical district, its menu is full of comforting favorites drawn from across the Kingdom’s western coastal region — chicken seelag, slow-roasted lamb haneeth and delicate, flaky samboosek.
“From the richest person to the poorest person in Saudi Arabia, we eat the same food,” he says. “When we celebrate, when we grieve, when we are happy or sad, we get masoub (banana pudding) or motabbaq (thin layers of pastry stuffed with meat).”
Al-Zubaidi’s path to the kitchen was anything but conventional. As a teenager eager to learn English, he set his sights on the UK, drawn by what he called “a love for the accent,” and made the leap in 2017. After completing his language course, he switched tracks to study sports. But somewhere between lectures and life abroad, homesickness hit in the form of a craving for the familiar flavors of Arabia.
“In London, you can find plenty of Turkish, Kurdish, Indian, even Malaysian options — but nothing from Saudi,” he explains. “So I decided to make it myself.” He began recreating the comforting dishes of home in his small Clapham flat, selling them cash-in-hand to fellow Saudis in search of an authentic taste of the Kingdom.
But the secret didn’t stay a secret for long. Soon, his passion found a new platform — Snapchat.
Al-Zubaidi shared short videos of his cooking process, garnishing each clip with personal moments and mouth-watering close-ups of Saudi dishes. His humble videos quickly gained a loyal fanbase, and orders poured in from every corner of the city — particularly as COVID took hold in the early months of 2020.
“People from the Saudi embassy added me, people from Aramco working in London added me. Saudis living here, working here, growing up here — plus lots of foreign people who had been to my country and tried this food before.”
What started as a side hustle quickly evolved into a pop-up, and by 2023, into a brick-and-mortar restaurant where Londoners could finally experience the authentic flavors of Saudi Arabia.
During the pop-up stage, Al-Zubaidi’s Snapchat followers became more than fans; they became enablers of his culinary vision, bringing a piece of Saudi Arabia to his London kitchen. Whenever one of his followers planned a trip from Saudi to the UK, they’d reach out, asking if he needed any hard-to-find ingredients.
Al-Zubaidi’s requests were simple but essential — fragrant spices, fresh dill, and most importantly, the special pastry sheets that he just couldn’t source in London.
“I’d say ‘I need the real pastry for samosa.’ And they’d bring it for me,” he says.
The enthusiasm was mutual. His followers were just as eager to bring these reminders of home, knowing he’d transform them into the dishes they missed.
Yet not everyone was as supportive. As he juggled his studies and the pop-up, criticism began to surface, especially from former friends back home.
“They mocked me,” he recalls. “They’d say things like, ‘You went to the UK to study, and now you’re just selling food?’”
Influencers he approached for social-media support brushed him off with dismissive remarks. But Al-Zubaidi was undeterred, finding new friends and switching his studies from sport to cooking. With a network of loyal clients and the backing of a few new investors he had met along the way, he began seriously considering a restaurant.
One wealthy friend, who had seen the young chef’s determination, urged him to take the plunge. After months of hard work studying knife skills, mastering Saudi dishes, and learning the restaurant business inside out, Al-Zubaidi took the leap.
Two years after opening its doors, Hijazi Corner is a definite success, becoming one of London’s top-rated Middle Eastern eateries. It’s perpetually packed with diners, and has become a go-to spot for celebrities, diplomats, and dignitaries from the Arab world and beyond, all seeking an authentic taste of Saudi Arabia.
After showcasing Saudi cuisine at several festivals and events, on National Day this September, Al-Zubaidi received a special honor — an invitation to the Kingdom’s embassy in London.
The recognition came after HRH Prince Khalid Bin Bandar Al-Saud, Saudi Arabia’s ambassador to the UK, visited Hijazi Corner and was so impressed that he mentioned it by name in his National Day speech. Al-Zubaidi, overcome with pride, shed tears of joy.
“I am proud of what I’ve achieved, but I haven’t finished yet,” he says. “This is just the beginning—there’s so much more of Saudi culture I want to share with the world.”
