Discerning diner? It would be a ‘folly’ not to try this Dubai restaurant

The restaurant and lounge offers a smart, modern vibe. (Photos supplied)
Updated 26 December 2017
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Discerning diner? It would be a ‘folly’ not to try this Dubai restaurant

DUBAI: Probably the hottest restaurant opening in Dubai in 2017, Folly by Nick & Scott is well-worth a trip if you are visiting the city. The restaurant had a lot to live up to, not least its pedigree — headed by two of the brightest stars in the region’s culinary circuit, Nick Alvis and Scott Price, formerly Gordon Ramsay protégés, who then pioneered the indie chef-led restaurant trend with the acclaimed Table 9.
Having worked with Spinneys Food in the interim, Folly feels like the culmination of a long-cherished dream by the chef duo, along with their longstanding partner who runs the front-of-house operations, Viktorija Paplauskiene.

Then there is the location. Folly replaces the beloved Rivington Grill in Madinat Jumeirah, and across the multilevel space enjoys an enviable position with stunning views of the Burj Al-Arab and beyond, as well as an atmospheric Arabesque setting.
Offsetting that traditionalist context, the restaurant and lounge offers a smart, modern vibe with warm woods, exposed brick walls, funky light fixtures and bistro-style seating. An open kitchen pass offers a window into the back-end workings and all the culinary entertainment a diner needs, adding to the lively ambience.
But Insta-worthy as it is, the setting is probably not the reason Folly seems to have swept the awards season this year. It is the food. Some restaurants draw you in with elaborate menus, detailing each dish to make it sound appetizing (in some cases, making them sound tastier than they actually are). In Folly, it is the exact opposite.
The menu, divided into three sections of varying portion sizes rather than the traditional starter/main course distinctions, downplays the dishes by only listing the main ingredients used. It may not do justice to the level of intricacy displayed in every dish, but the often-intriguing combinations tantalize just enough to make you want to order one of each.
While the menu is designed to offer diners the flexibility to build their meal according to what they want, from light tapas bites with drinks to a full-on degustation, we opted for a three-course (ish) meal, aided by recommendations from the staff.

There is really not much we could fault with our dinner, but highlights included the small plate of monkfish cheeks with paprika and salted lemon, which basically translates to a tart crème fraiche-like accompaniment, offering the perfect offset to the subtle sweetness of the fish.
A Butterhead lettuce mousse with mustard was a delicious study in how a bit of creativity can elevate what is usually a humble, overlooked ingredient into haute cuisine, as does the crispy hen’s egg with morels.

But the standout dish was the straciatella (a mild creamy cheese), the little spires of which needed little else but the complement of sweet baby tomatoes and the drizzle of a light balsamic dressing to make for a moreish starter.
Among the larger plates or mains, the lemon sole with sprouts and mint was a refreshingly herbaceous dish, while the roasted guinea fowl with stuffing, served with shredded cabbage and fondant potatoes — this could well become the perfect festive meal for the season — is excellent, if a touch over-seasoned in our case.
Dessert offerings continue the pattern of giving familiar dishes and ingredients an inventive twist. So the well-loved meringue, cream and berries concoction that is Eton Mess is updated with a basil meringue and fresh basil; while cheesecake pairs unexpectedly, but deliciously, with apple ice cream.
Both chefs are extremely hands-on in the kitchen, which means the menu regularly gets updated with quirky new combinations that they have conjured up. This, and the pared back, fuss-free yet undeniably gourmet experience that Folly offers, put it on par with some of the trendiest restaurants around the world, and a must-visit in Dubai.


Where We Are Going Today: Crosto bakery in Dammam

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Updated 23 November 2024
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Where We Are Going Today: Crosto bakery in Dammam

  • The Crosto Om Ali provided a warm, creamy, comforting conclusion to the meal

If you’re in Dammam and looking for a flavorful brunch or a light meal, the recently opened bakery Crosto offers a cozy atmosphere and a versatile menu catering to different tastes.

The maple shrimp for SR46 ($12) was the highlight of our visit — perfectly cooked shrimp complemented by a sweet maple glaze. The chicken sliders (SR33) were another favorite — juicy, tasty, and served on fresh buns. The Turkish shakshuka and Crosto avocado are worth trying too.

The Crosto Om Ali provided a warm, creamy, comforting conclusion to the meal.

Crosto’s Turkish Coffee is a must-have for coffee enthusiasts. Its authentic preparation and rich taste paired perfectly with the desserts, enhancing the overall dining experience.

The atmosphere at Crosto is welcoming and casual. However, the service during our visit was a little slow, which might be a concern if you’re in a rush.

With its mix of regional and international flavors, Crosto could be a good choice for your next outing in Dammam.

For more information, check their Instagram @crosto.sa.

 


Italian and Saudi flavors blend in embassy dinner and cooking competition

Risotto competition at the "Italy meets KSA" dinner at the Ritz Carlton Hotel. (AN photo)
Updated 22 November 2024
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Italian and Saudi flavors blend in embassy dinner and cooking competition

  • Highlighting similarities between Italian and Saudi cultures that can be sensed in their cuisines, Chiari said: “Both Italy and Saudi Arabia place great importance on hospitality, family, and the tradition of sharing meals

RIYADH: A group of 15 Saudi and Italian chefs created a seven-course dinner titled “Italy meets KSA,” combining both cuisines at Ritz Carlton’s Azzuro Restaurant.

Daniele Chiari, Italian chef and head of Dinner Incredible, the hosts of the event, told Arab News: “Tonight’s event in Riyadh is inspired by the shared love for storytelling and culture through cuisine. As a chef, I see food as a universal language that connects people, and Saudi Arabia’s culinary traditions are incredibly rich and diverse, just like Italy’s.”

Mozzarella demonstration at the "Italy meets KSA" dinner at the Ritz Carlton Hotel. (AN photo)

The event featured a culinary risotto competition between top Saudi chefs, which was won by Omar AlKhaldi, who received a scholarship fund from ALMA, the School of Italian Culinary Arts.

The event also had a display of fresh mozzarella cheese for tasting, made in the Kingdom by Sana cheese company, which specializes in Italian cheeses.

Risotto competition at the "Italy meets KSA" dinner at the Ritz Carlton Hotel. (AN photo)

“This evening, we aim to create a bridge between these two cultures, highlighting how local Saudi ingredients and techniques can harmonize beautifully with Italian culinary artistry,” Chiari said.

The evening concluded with a seven-course tasting dinner highlighting Italian and Saudi flavors. The menu included a pumpkin tart, cream of beans soup with shredded camel meat, a Red Sea grouper served with truffle, and a Saudi-coffee twist on the famous tiramisu.

Red Sea grouper at the "Italy meets KSA" dinner at the Ritz Carlton Hotel. (AN photo)

Highlighting similarities between Italian and Saudi cultures that can be sensed in their cuisines, Chiari said: “Both Italy and Saudi Arabia place great importance on hospitality, family, and the tradition of sharing meals. In terms of food, there’s a deep respect for natural, high-quality ingredients in both cuisines. Just as Italians value simplicity and the authentic taste of their produce, Saudis take pride in the purity and flavor of their spices, grains, and meats.”

Chiari spoke about the ability of food to cross international borders and connect communities.

Rosewater-glazed lamb at the "Italy meets KSA" dinner at the Ritz Carlton Hotel. (AN photo)

“Food is one of the most powerful ways to build connections and foster understanding between cultures. It transcends language, politics, and borders, allowing people to experience something deeply personal yet universally relatable. By crossing international borders through food, we’re not just sharing recipes — we’re sharing history, values, and creativity.”

The competition was organized by the Italian Embassy in Riyadh, the Italian Trade Agency, and ALMA, the School of Italian Culinary Arts, in collaboration with Sitaf and the Royal Protocol.

 

 


Where We Are Going Today: Soul Bowl restaurant in Riyadh

Updated 21 November 2024
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Where We Are Going Today: Soul Bowl restaurant in Riyadh

Soul Bowl, an on-the-go healthy meal station is catching the eye of Riyadh’s foodie and wellness fiends with their nutritious bowls and sandwiches.

While most tend to order for delivery, you can enjoy a comfortable and quaint indoor dining experience in their store in As Sahafah; where the neutral colors, soft warm lighting, and pop of green offer a welcoming atmosphere for both solo and social dining.

Soul Bowl’s menu offers a wide selection of salads, bowls, flatbread sandwiches, wraps, soups, and rice meals, as well as fresh juices, desserts and acai bowls. 

Their wraps and bowls are a hit, with the chicken chipotle wrap and the Mexican bowl as big standouts. 

The chicken used is clearly of high quality and cooked very well, and the rest of the ingredients, such as the greens, rice, sauces, feel very fresh. The flatbread sandwiches, however, are a bit of a hit or miss.

The main courses they offer range from tandoori chicken to beef stroganoff.


Where We Are Going Today: ‘Gosha’ bakery in Riyadh

Updated 20 November 2024
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Where We Are Going Today: ‘Gosha’ bakery in Riyadh

Gosha, with several branches in Riyadh, has gained a loyal following for its fresh-baked flatbreads and creative flavor combinations.

This modern bakery is the go-to spot for fans of stone-baked delights, offering a unique twist on traditional recipes. 

The thyme with pomegranate flatbread is the star of the menu. Its tangy, earthy flavors are perfectly balanced and complemented by the crispness of the bread. Another top pick is the honey labneh flatbread, offering a delightful sweet-and-savory profile. The falafel wrap also deserves praise for its crispy, flavorful filling that feels hearty and fresh.

Gosha’s menu caters to those seeking variety, offering several options suitable for breakfast or light snacks. 

However, one thing missing from the experience is the addition of fresh beverages. It would be great to pair these delicious flatbreads with fresh juice, tea, or coffee, creating a more complete dining experience.

Overall, Gosha impresses with its innovative take on traditional flavors, vibrant presentation, and consistently high quality.

This is a great option for anyone looking for a quick, delicious bite in Riyadh.

For more information, check the bakery’s Instagram @qooshah.


Where We Are Going Today: ‘Balcona 99’ Egyptian cuisine in Jeddah

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Updated 19 November 2024
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Where We Are Going Today: ‘Balcona 99’ Egyptian cuisine in Jeddah

  • The menu is a tribute to the diverse and flavorful dishes of Egypt

Balcona 99, in As-Salamah in Jeddah, has been delighting diners with its authentic Egyptian cuisine, offering an experience rooted in tradition.

The ambiance captivates from the moment one enters, with intricately carved hieroglyphics and symbolic artwork evoking Egyptian heritage.

Traditional melodies, warm decor and striking geometric tiles come together to create a space that feels both vibrant and welcoming.

Guests can choose between the elegant dining area, the cozy lounge ideal for shisha or the outdoor terrace, which becomes especially appealing during the cooler months.

The menu is a tribute to the diverse and flavorful dishes of Egypt. To start, the appetizers set the tone for an unforgettable meal.

The fattoush and hummus are light and refreshing, while the roqaq meat, a crispy, flaky pastry filled with spiced meat, stands out as a favorite, especially when paired with the zesty chili sauce.

Mombar, stuffed eggplants, zucchini and peppers, also offer a delicious glimpse into Egyptian culinary artistry.

Moving on to the mains, the tawajen section features oven-baked rice paired with duck, pigeon, quail, chicken or other meat, alongside stews such as daoud basha and potato with chicken or meat.

The okra with meat stew is particularly delightful, its tender beef simmered in a fragrant tomato broth. The Egyptian fatta, served with trotters, lamb chops or chicken, is a hearty and satisfying choice that reflects the comfort food aspect of the cuisine.

For those who enjoy grilled dishes, the selection includes succulent quails, pigeon stuffed with rice, veal brochettes, kofta, lamb chops and beef liver.

Each is prepared to perfection, offering smoky, juicy flavors that leave a lasting impression. Classic dishes such as Balcona koshari and veal escallop pane add even more variety to the feast.

Desserts at Balcona 99 are the perfect conclusion to a rich meal. Whether it’s the soft, syrup-drenched balah el-sham, the creamy rice pudding, or the indulgent cheese kunafa, each dessert showcases the sweet simplicity of Egyptian flavors.

Check @balcona.sa on Instagram for more details.