TOKYO: At a century-old workshop in a quiet Tokyo neighborhood, craftsman Yuichi Hirose brushes dye across meticulously hand-cut stencils laid on fabric, using a traditional technique to produce contemporary kimono patterns.
Demand for the elaborate, elegant centerpiece of the Japanese wardrobe is in decline, but a handful of artisans and entrepreneurs like Hirose, 39, are trying to revive it.
“The kimono has become something that is very far removed from our daily lives,” said Hirose, who joined his family business after university.
He specializes in “Edo Komon” — a kimono pattern hand-dyed with a Japanese washi paper stencil, which dates back to the Edo period between the 17th and late 19th centuries.
It’s a deeply traditional craft that requires great skill to master, he said, “but we need to create something that is accepted in this modern time.”
Hirose’s innovations include developing new designs to adorn the kimono, including tiny sharks or even skull motifs.
Once a standard of the Japanese wardrobe, the kimono is now often a garment reserved for special occasions, such as weddings and coming-of-age ceremonies, and is mostly worn by women.
They can be hugely expensive and women often hire experts to dress them because the outfit requires seemingly endless nipping, tucking and strapping.
The modern kimono industry peaked in 1975 with a market size of ¥1.8 trillion, according to the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry.
But by 2008 it had shrunk to ¥406.5 billion and further to just ¥278.5 billion in 2016, according to a survey conducted by Yano Research Institute.
“There are many hurdles” to buying a kimono, said Takatoshi Yajima, vice chairman of the Japan kimono promotion association, and a kimono manufacturer.
“It’s expensive. It’s difficult to wear. It’s too delicate to wash at home,” he said.
“We need to make kimonos that are affordable and wearable. If we do that, I believe more young consumers will buy kimonos.”
He has nearly doubled his number of customers in the past 15 years by selling more kimonos under the ¥100,000 price tag, well below the many thousands of dollars a high-end piece can cost.
“The industry will grow if we can create a market in which as many people as possible will buy a kimono,” he said.
A complete kimono outfit starts with an undergarment known as a nagajuban, over which the kimono is layered, held in place with a thick obi belt and string.
The outfit is completed with tabi, ankle-high white socks divided at the big toe to allow feet to slip into thick-soled sandals called zori.
But beyond the basic framework, designer Jotaro Saito says there should be room for experimentation.
“What’s fabulous, what’s unfashionable and what’s cool change every year. It’s wrong that kimonos don’t change even if everything else is changing,” said the Kyoto-based designer, whose work has been worn by American singer Lady Gaga.
“Kimonos are not something old. Wearing a kimono is the coolest and the most fun thing.”
At Tokyo fashion week in March, Saito, who calls himself “a risk taker,” showcased kimonos for men and women, mixing traditional and unconventional motifs and colors.
“I want to present kimonos as a wardrobe in which people can truly feel joy,” he said.
And while demand for kimonos is falling among Japanese, services renting the garments to foreign visitors are booming.
Interest is expected to expand, according to the Yano Research Institute, with more tourists visiting Japan and looking for cultural experiences.
Kahori Ochi serves around 500 foreign tourists a year at her kimono rental store in the trendy Harajuku area of Tokyo.
They pay around ¥9,000 to be dressed in a kimono worth about ¥300,000.
“Kimono is a piece of Japanese culture. I really wanted to experience that,” said Ruby Francisco, a Dutch tourist who rented a pale green kimono at Ochi’s shop.
“It’s special. It’s like an honor to wear,” the 33-year-old said, adding that she would post photos of herself in the kimono on social media to show her friends.
Ochi’s mother ran a shop selling high-end kimonos, but she didn’t expect to follow in her footsteps.
“My mother told me the kimono business is risky and volatile,” she said, adding that her mother’s shop struggled after the bubble economy ended in the early 1990s.
“I used to think kimonos were not cool and practical.”
But Ochi changed her mind after spending a summer in Norway, where people complimented her kimono.
She decided to join her mother’s shop, but being the owner’s daughter came with no privileges.
“She said ‘no salary for you,’” Ochi laughed, recalling her mother’s surprise at her sudden interest in the industry.
But now, she says, business is booming and she expects the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games will drive new demand as tourists flock to Japan.
“But my goal is not to expand the business,” she added.
“I hope to meet more people who want to understand Japanese culture.”
Japanese kimono makers seek to revive declining industry
Japanese kimono makers seek to revive declining industry
- Once a standard of the Japanese wardrobe, the kimono is now often a garment reserved for special occasions and is mostly worn by women
- While demand for kimonos is falling among Japanese, services renting the garments to foreign visitors are booming
Quinta Brunson opts for Lebanese gown in Los Angeles
DUBAI: Emmy-winning actress, comedian and writer Quinta Brunson showed off a gown by Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad at the 14th Annual Spring Break Gala by City Year Los Angeles.
Founded in 1988, City Year is a national service program that offers full-time community service. This weekend, the Los Angeles chapter held its annual gala, which was attended by the likes of US actress and film producer Viola Davis and “Abbott Elementary” sitcom creator Brunson.
Brunson’s column gown hailed from Zuhair Murad’s Pre-Fall 2025 collection. The look featured star-like embellishments across the torso, bust and cuffs.
It is not the first time Brunson has worn a Lebanese creation on the red carpet — in September, she showed off a mermaid sculpted gown from Lebanese designer Georges Chakra’s Fall/Winter 2024-2025 couture collection at the 76th Primetime Emmy Awards in Hollywood.
Meanwhile, Murad has continued to attract celebrity clientele to his eveningwear label.
In late April, Murad made a statement at the 2025 Time 100 Gala with US actress Blake Lively, as well as singer and songwriter Nicole Scherzinger, showcasing his creations on the red carpet.
Lively, who attended the event with her husband Ryan Reynolds, wore a pink taffeta off-the-shoulder gown featuring a corseted bodice and a train detail from Murad’s ready-to-wear Spring 2025 collection.
Scherzinger, meanwhile, chose a black off-the-shoulder sequin gown from Murad’s ready-to-wear Pre-Fall 2025 collection.
One month earlier, Murad unveiled his latest collaboration with Italian label Marina Rinaldi. Murad designed the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 capsule collection inspired by China’s Tang dynasty.
Drawing from the dynasty’s introduction of peony cultivation in imperial gardens, Murad infused the collection with images of the flower.
The collection focuses largely on eveningwear.
“Grand evening gowns go beyond the pure object, they are a way of investing in one’s personal history,” the designer said in a released statement. True to his signature style, the collection features hourglass silhouettes and intricate hand-embroidered details.
The collection’s color palette mirrors another element of Tang dynasty artistry — delicate chinaware. Soft shades of cream, sky blue, aquamarine green and pink infuse the flowing chiffon gowns, pleated bodices and long plisse skirts.
Loli Bahia fronts Chanel’s latest jewelry campaign
DUBAI: Chanel cannot get enough of French Algerian model Loli Bahia. The French luxury house has tapped the model once again to front its latest campaign for the Chanel No. 5 jewelry collection.
The new pieces combine gold and diamonds to form the shape of the number five, a symbol closely associated with the brand’s identity. The collection includes rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings, all inspired by the enduring allure of the No. 5 brand.
In the campaign images, Bahia was seen wearing various pieces from the line, including number five-shaped drop earrings, a diamond pendant necklace, a gold bracelet featuring the numeral and matching rings. The designs incorporate both yellow and white gold and are detailed with diamonds.
Bahia has collaborated with Chanel on several occasions. Most recently, in January, she opened the runway show during Paris Haute Couture Week wearing an ensemble that combined the house’s signature tweed with pastel quilting.
The look featured a jacket with a quilted front panel in soft shades of pink, blue, yellow and green, contrasted with white tweed sleeves. The jacket was detailed with front pockets and Chanel’s signature buttons.
The in-demand model also wore a white tweed mini skirt, paired with a slim black belt featuring a gold buckle. The outfit was completed with two-tone Mary Jane heels in black and white, secured with gold buckle-adorned ankle straps.
In May 2024, she walked the Chanel Cruise 2024/2025 show in Marseille, France.
Bahia donned a green ensemble, composed of a knee-length pencil skirt paired with a matching top, layered over a white shirt boasting a hoodie collar.
That same year, in June, she walked for the brand during Paris Fashion Week as part of its fall/winter 2024-2025 collection unveiling.
She graced the runway in a two-piece ensemble comprising a tailored buttoned jacket complemented by a matching knee-length skirt in a delicate tweed fabric. Both garments were adorned with subtle black tassel details.
The model’s first campaign with Chanel was in 2022, when she was just 19 years old. It was Chanel’s Metiers d’Art spring 2022 campaign, shot by fashion photographer Mikael Jansson.
In the campaign, Bahia displayed the savoir faire of artisans via tailored jackets, logo-emblazoned leather gloves, wide-brimmed hats, embellished mini-dresses and ornate bangles, necklaces and earrings.
Primark to open 3 stores in the UAE
DUBAI: Primark is officially making its way to Dubai, marking its debut in the UAE after years of rumors about the popular store’s launch in the country.
The popular budget retailer is partnering with retail giant Alshaya Group to open three stores in Dubai, as announced by Alshaya Group CEO John Hadden on Virgin Radio Dubai’s Kris Fade Show.
Set to launch in early 2026, the stores will be located at Dubai Mall, Mall of the Emirates and City Centre Mirdif.
“Price is the same. We’re going to do jeans at a starting price of AED 50 and a basic t-shirt will be AED 15,” Hadden said on the show. “I’m so excited I can’t sustain it. It’s just brilliant.”
Primark’s regional debut is set for The Avenues Mall in Kuwait, with the store expected to open by late 2025. Following that, the brand will expand to Dubai as its next stop in the Middle East.
Primark began 55 years ago in Dublin, Ireland, where it originally opened under the name Penneys. Since then, it has grown to operate 450 stores worldwide.
With a presence in 15 European countries and 16 locations in the United States, the brand offers a wide range of products including clothing for women, men and children, as well as cosmetics, home goods and accessories.
Best and Worst: Saudi presenter Ftoon Marwan talks family, freedom and fashion
DUBAI: The Saudi presenter and content creator discusses fashion and how family and freedom have influenced her journey.
Best TV show or film you’ve ever seen?
The best TV show? “The Walking Dead.” I’ve watched it more than six times. I’m crazy about this show. I’ve been watching it since I was little kid. For movies, I like “Life or Something Like It” with Angelina Jolie. I’ve also been watching it since I was a child. The story of the movie is very nice.
Worst TV show or film you’ve ever seen?
“It.” I hate that movie. I don’t understand, are they trying to make kids scared of clowns? They’re already afraid of them. To me the idea is stupid.
Best personal style moment so far?
My mom actually does all of my styling. I could get a stylist, but my mom is honestly the best. I like all the outfits she chooses for me. At one event I was emceeing I was wearing a fuchsia dress. It was so bright. I was shining among everyone. I love this outfit!
Worst personal style moment?
I don’t have a worst style moment to be honest. There’s a saying in Arabic that means “There is a right moment for everything.” I don’t judge my style that harshly.
Best accessory for a little black dress?
A gold belt with simple gold earrings and accessories. All gold. Simple, simple, simple. For heels, it has to be gold. I have gold heels that I love so much. They work with everything!
Worst accessory for a little black dress?
Everything matches black. So, I do not think there is a worst accessory. It’s the king of colors.
Best fashion trend of 2025?
Statement accessories like bold bags and chunky jewelry. I like when they are out there and obvious, but the outfit itself has to be simple. Accessories give life to the outfit, you know?
Worst fashion trend of 2025?
Tiny bags, who wears them anymore? I can’t put anything inside them! It’s a stupid idea.
Best advice you’ve ever been given?
Focus on your health, family, money and work. I’d say focus especially on your family. Your mother and father brought you into this world with the hope of raising a child they could be proud of and honored by in front of others. My parents dedicated their entire lives to raising us to become the best versions of ourselves.
Worst advice you’ve ever been given?
“Get married early so we can see your kids.” Someone once proposed to me and said that. Thankfully my family said no. I truly appreciated it. They said no to make me free to do whatever I want whenever I want.
Best thing to do when you’re feeling low?
When I go to the beach, I swear I am the happiest creature in the world. Also, when I was a little kid, I used to tell my parents to take me ice skating whenever I felt low. This habit stuck with me until now. It gave me really good balance.
Worst thing to do when you’re feeling good?
Oversharing my feelings and my money. I’ll go spend my money on my friends and family. My mom keeps telling me: “Stop, you’ll need this money someday.” But I always tell her what goes comes around in double. That’s my motto.
Best holiday destination?
Dubai. I really love it. I lived most of my childhood there. I also like Germany. I went there in 2013 with my whole family. It was so nice. Honestly, I remember every moment of it.
Worst holiday destination?
I’ve never been to Egypt, but my family were saying they didn’t like it because of the situations they they’ve been in there.
Best subject at school?
I used to enjoy history, archaeology and science. Then in college, I did archaeology and tourism. It was meant to be. It was so me.
Worst subject at school?
Math, math, math. I remember a lot of Ds and one F.
Imaan Hammam suits up for 2025 Met Gala
DUBAI: Fashion’s biggest night got underway this week at the Met Gala in a rainy Manhattan, and part-Arab celebrities turned heads with their looks.
Dutch Egyptian Moroccan model Imaan Hammam donned a white tailored suit by Polish designer Magda Butrym, featuring a fitted waist, structured shoulders and wide-leg trousers. She paired it with a black shirt and a polka dot tie.
Her look included a black cane with a silver handle and silver pointed-toe heels. She topped off the outfit with a black headpiece made of flowers and long feathers.
Among the guests was, of course, US Dutch Palestinian model Gigi Hadid.
The runway star wore a metallic gold halter-neck gown with a fitted silhouette and a gathered waist. The dress featured sequins and embellishments throughout, along with a slight train that extended behind her.
She completed the look with statement earrings and styled her hair in soft vintage waves with a rolled front section.
Saudi Arabia-based Argentine model Georgina Rodriguez wore a black satin gown with lace detailing along the neckline and waist. The dress featured a thigh-high slit and a floor-length train. She accessorized her look with pointed black heels and a diamond necklace.
This year’s Met Gala marks two major milestones: it is the first to spotlight Black designers, and the first in over two decades to center on menswear. The theme was inspired by the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s spring exhibition, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.”
The event was co-hosted by Pharrell Williams, Lewis Hamilton, Colman Domingo and A$AP Rocky.
Rihanna closed out the evening in signature fashion, revealing her newly announced baby bump. Her Marc Jacobs look included tied sleeves of a men’s suit that served as a bustle behind her as she posed for the cameras.
A$AP Rocky, who is both co-chair and the father of Rihanna’s child, responded to congratulations on the carpet. “It feels amazing. It’s time that we show the people what we was cooking up. And I’m glad everybody’s happy for us ‘cause we definitely happy, you know,” he told reporters on the red carpet.
