KARACHI: During the holy month of Ramadan, Karachi residents are told it is best to avoid using Burns Road, the oldest and longest food street in the seaside Pakistani metropolis.
Burns Road is what some have called “the holy grail for foodies”, and especially during Ramadan, it is thronged with crowds getting ready to break their fasts with delectable snacks, making it almost impossible for commuters to pass.
It is also where Fresco Chowk — famous for its Fresco sweets — is located.
What makes this road intersection a favorite among the city’s dwellers is the lure of South Asian fare such as the savory dahi baray, the crispy samosas and kachori, delicious chicken rolls, aromatic Arabian paratha and sweet jalebis made in desi ghee.
Dahi baray or dahi vada is a centuries-old savory snack, made of deep fried lentil flour balls soaked in thick yoghurt and spices. It is also a staple food item for many households during Ramadan.
Ali Hasan, now 25 and a resident of the upscale Clifton locality, says the dahi baray on Burns Road has been mandatory for Iftar Dastarkhwan at his home for several decades now.
“When I was a kid, my father would take me here to buy dahi baray, samosas and other special items for our Iftar,” Hasan told Arab News.
“These items are delicious. One can try to prepare these at home but no one can match their taste,” he said.
“Seeing the crowd, one would think the people believe they won’t get it after today! Everyone is just dying for it. It’s very difficult to buy these items,” said Mazhar Ali, a 50-year-old resident of the garden vicinity, who was queuing up for Arabian paratha at Faseko.
Nearby, the samosas of Hafiz is also attracting an equally large number of people drawn by its unique taste.
“Jalebis are mostly fried in cooking oil. Using desi gee makes its taste special,” Ali said.
The owner of Faseko, Hafiz Faseeh, says his stall has been offering these delicious local delights for fifty decades. Families of Punjabi Saudagaran-e-Delhi, who migrated to Karachi from the Indian capital of Delhi, brought the recipes of these savory snacks with them. One of the most prominent figures from this family is the president of Pakistan, Mamnoon Hussain.
“With each Ramadan, the number of buyers increases,” Faseeh told Arab News in between serving his long line of customers outside his outlet.
“According to our estimates the activities at Iftar in Karachi generates a business of Rs2 billion daily,” Muhammad Atiq Mir, the chairman of All Karachi Tajir Ittehad, an alliance of market associations in Karachi, told Arab News.
“Although Iftar items are also being prepared at our home, we occasionally buy famous dahi baray, samosas, kachori and other special items from the famous outlets,” he admitted.
Burns Road, one of the busiest in the city which attracts customers from all across Karachi, is not the only place where crowds throng during Ramadan from the late afternoons till Iftar. Several food places in the city are equally popular.
Sales of fruits have also increased manifold, and so have their prices.
Despite the price hike, most people are undeterred.
Mir said that hundreds of trucks loaded with different fruits constantly arrive in the seaport city of Karachi, where more than 20 million people reside. Those busy with other errands usually rush towards shops like Pakistani Fruit Chaat — to take home the sweet and spicy cut-fruit salad.
During Ramadan, crowds bring traffic to a standstill in Karachi’s Burns Road
During Ramadan, crowds bring traffic to a standstill in Karachi’s Burns Road
Where We Are Going Today: Suhail Restaurant in Riyadh
- The restaurant is named after one of the brightest stars in the night sky, historically used for navigation during long journeys, and is symbolic of the restaurant’s mission: to lead the way in authentic Saudi cuisine, combining traditional flavors with g
Suhail Restaurant offers authentic Saudi food with a modern twist. The menu at its Riyadh branch features a variety of dishes from all regions of the Kingdom, including farmooza, manto, saleeg, beef and chicken samboosa, and veal and lamb with rice.
It also features hearty soups such as jareesh, lamb oat, and sweet potato, alongside kbeibah Hai’l and vegetable muttabaq. There are several options for vegan and vegetarian diners too.
The current iftar offer costs SR225 ($60) per person, a reasonable price for this high-end dining experience.
The restaurant is named after one of the brightest stars in the night sky, historically used for navigation during long journeys, and is symbolic of the restaurant’s mission: to lead the way in authentic Saudi cuisine, combining traditional flavors with great service.
However, my experience at Suhail was not without some drawbacks. While the food was undoubtedly delicious, the seating arrangements left much to be desired. Our large group was split across four tables, which diminished the sense of togetherness that is such an important part of iftar.
The limited variety of desserts on offer was also a disappointment, given the restaurant’s otherwise rich offerings, I had hoped for a more diverse selection to complement the meal.
However, for those looking to enjoy a satisfying take on traditional Saudi cuisine, Suhail is worth a visit. It has two branches, one in MEFIC Center on Riyadh’s Northern Ring Road, and one in AlUla.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Layali October’ – Egyptian flavors in Madinah
- If you prefer a little sunlight, the balcony seating gives you a cozy indoor experience with a perfect street view
If you are craving a little piece of Egypt right in Madinah, Layali October (October Nights) is the place to go. This cozy cafe on Zubairah Al-Roumiah Street is part of the city’s growing hub of trendy restaurants and cafes.
As soon as you step inside, you will be instantly transported to a classic Egyptian street cafe, the kind you would find in the bustling alleys of Cairo or Alexandria: Picture neighbors gathered around a table, sipping black tea or coffee, playing cards, debating life, and maybe even having a good old-fashioned “friendly argument.”
The cafe’s black-themed aesthetic is effortlessly cool. Vintage wooden chairs and outdoor seating let you enjoy the evening breeze while listening to the legendary tunes of Abdel Halim Hafez, Umm Kulthum, and Farid Al-Atrash.
If you prefer a little sunlight, the balcony seating gives you a cozy indoor experience with a perfect street view.
Layali October serves up some of the most authentic Egyptian flavors in Madinah. Their signature chay talgimah is a must-try, a strong black tea loaded with sugar, meant to be slowly savored by true tea lovers.
I went for the authentic Egyptian breakfast tray; it was a feast! The large round tray was filled with smaller steel dishes of foul (fava beans), hummus, labneh with cucumber slices, fresh arugula leaves, Egyptian white cheese, tangy pickles, black olives, crispy falafel, and shakshuka eggs. Served with warm white and brown bread, it was the perfect way to start the day. You may pair it with milk tea.
For lighter options, the cafe offers sandwiches such as smoky tuna, grilled chicken, halloumi, and falafel wraps. It also serves iced lattes, Spanish lattes, cortados, lemonades, and more.
If you want to try something sweet, you should go for their cream brulee; it is cold, creamy, and absolutely on point. For more details, visit @octobercafe_sa on Instagram.
Recipes for Success: Chef Dexter Gelizon offers advice, a recipe for avocado ceviche
DUBAI: Filipino chef Dexter Gelizon, is currently sous chef at Dubai’s sister restaurants Salvaje (which serves Japanese cuisine) and Arrogante (Italian).
“My journey as a chef began when I was 17 years old, helping my aunt run her food truck,” Gelizon tells Arab News. “It was there that I started honing my palate and developing my skills in creating innovative recipes. Over time, I fell in love with Japanese flavors and techniques, which completely transformed my path.”
But his love for cooking was sparked at a much earlier age.
“My earliest memory of cooking goes back to when I was five, making adobo — braised chicken in soy sauce — with my mom. That left a lasting impression on me,” he says.
Here he talks salt, simplicity, and sharpness.
What was the most common mistake you made when starting out?
Overcomplicating the plate. I’d focus too much on presentation and lose sight of the most important element — the flavor. Now, I prioritize flavor and quality above all else.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Invest in good-quality equipment and utensils. A sharp knife, a reliable stove or induction cooktop, and sturdy pans can make all the difference. Having the right tools makes the cooking process smoother, but it also sets the tone for a positive and enjoyable experience. When I see a well-equipped kitchen, it puts me in a good mood and inspires me to prepare food with care and enthusiasm.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Salt. It has the power to elevate and balance the flavors, bringing out the best in every ingredient. But achieving the right balance can be tricky — it requires precision and care. Too little, and the flavors might fall flat; too much, and the entire dish can be ruined.
What’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants when you go out?
The experience for diners starts with the service — it sets the tone for the entire meal. When the staff explain the dishes on the menu with enthusiasm and precision, it excites me and heightens my anticipation. However, if the service fails to make a good first impression, it can shift my focus, and I might start noticing flaws or areas for improvement. Service and atmosphere are as important as the food itself in creating a memorable dining experience.
What’s your favorite dish?
I always look for ramen. It’s incredibly satisfying. I love exploring how different chefs are evolving and innovating with flavors and techniques. Ramen is fascinating to me because it’s so complex — every component, from the broth to the noodles and toppings, needs to be perfectly balanced. It’s tricky to get right, but when done well it’s absolutely delicious and a true testament to a chef’s skill.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
A combination of eggs, sausage, rice, and soup. It’s quick to prepare, satisfying, and gives me the energy I need — perfect for a busy day.
What customer behavior most frustrates you?
What annoys me most is when customers deconstruct a well-prepared dish that has a perfect balance of flavors. Each element is carefully crafted to complement the others, so altering it can disrupt the harmony and intention behind the dish.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
Braised short ribs in peanut sauce, a dish my mom calls Kare Kare. Braising the short ribs is a complex and time-intensive process, but the result is incredibly rewarding. There’s a deep sense of pride and satisfaction when you achieve perfectly tender meat paired with a rich, creamy peanut sauce. It’s a dish that carries a lot of sentimental value for me.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
From the Salvaje menu, the most challenging dish is the Salvaje steak. There are two crucial components to manage — the steak and the sauce. Timing is everything. If the timing is off, the steak can easily become overcooked, and the sauce can split and turn oily. Once that happens, there’s no way to fix it — you have to start over from scratch. It requires precision and focus to ensure it’s served perfectly every time.
What are you like in the kitchen? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laid back?
I’m a disciplinarian, but in a calm and constructive way. I see myself as a teacher, focusing on guiding and correcting where needed. If I ever raise my voice, it’s only because something has gone seriously wrong — but I work hard to ensure it doesn’t come to that.
Chef Dexter’s avocado ceviche recipe
Char-grilled avocado with amarillo ponzu, fried corn, chili, mango, cucumber and onion
Procedure:
Cut the avocado into quarters, grill it to get smoky flavor, put on a plate and drizzle with amarillo ponzu, add the rest of the vegetables randomly, finish with salt and olive oil.
INGREDIENTS:
Amarillo ponzu
8g yellow hot pepper paste; 10g ponzu; 5g yellow capsicum; 6ml olive oil; salt to taste; lemon juice to taste
Procedure:
Roast the yellow capsicum, allow to cool then remove the seeds. In a food processor, mix all the ingredients apart from the olive oil until you get a paste. Slowly add the olive oil until emulsified. Season with salt and lemon.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Salad Lab’ in Qatif
Eating healthily does not have to be boring. Colorful salads and earthy bowls are Salad Lab’s speciality, and this Saudi-owned food outlet offering flavorful healthy meals is sure to leave you satisfied.
From Mexican salad to Lebanese fattoush, Salad Lab’s menu has a variety of trendy and international salads for all tastes. Customers can customize their own salad, with endless options of vegetables and toppings.
Salad Lab also has warm dishes, such as grilled chicken and salmon with a side of vegetables, mashed potatoes or fluffy white rice.
Visitors will love their grilled salmon with a side of vegetables and mash potatoes. This savory and flavorful dish is cooked to perfection with a side of fresh produce.
Another great option for a lighter meal is their avocado chicken salad. This salad has sweet flavors from the honey mustard dressing and savory notes from the seasoned grilled chicken, and an added crunch from the topped nuts.
Salad Lab has only one location in Qatif and the restaurant is fairly small, offering limited seating. Visitors can also order online through the “Locate” food delivery application to avoid standing in line.
During the month of Ramadan, Salad Lab offers their combo boxes, which will include a main dish with a side, salad, sambosa, dates, and a drink of choice.
Salad Lab is a great option for those who are keen to maintain a healthy diet, and anyone craving a nutritious yet tasty meal.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Mama’s Bagel
- Mama’s Bagel also serves fresh juices like orange, orange and carrot, and beetroot
Nestled in Riyadh’s vibrant food scene, Mama’s Bagel is bringing a taste of New York to the Kingdom’s capital.
This Saudi brand offers freshly made bagels that are as delicious as they are creative.
Inspired by the classic New York bagel, the founder wanted to create a place where people could enjoy delicious bagel sandwiches with unique flavors.
While Mama’s Bagel sticks to traditional New York bagel-making methods, it adds a twist by blending bold, local flavors. This mix of traditions makes every sandwich stand out.
The cozy restaurant offers a relaxed atmosphere for brunch, a quick meal, or a coffee break.
Among the best-sellers are the spicy tuna with avocado and the turkey with cream cheese, made in-house with fresh, locally sourced ingredients and served in satisfying portions.
For a gourmet twist, try the burrata turkey, which blends pesto with creamy burrata, smokey turkey, and herby pesto. The labneh and olives offer a Mediterranean-inspired treat, while the qaymer cream with honey is a smooth and naturally sweet option.
If you’re craving something comforting, the peanut butter and jam is a nostalgic choice that hits the mark.
Mama’s Bagel also serves fresh juices like orange, orange and carrot, and beetroot.
The modern, trendy vibe of the space captures the energy of New York’s iconic bagel spots while still feeling warm and inviting.
For more details, visit @mamas.bagel on Instagram.
