JAKARTA: Women flight attendants on Indonesia’s low-cost Citilink airline have been given the option of wearing uniforms featuring a headscarf design.
“We came up with the idea so that female flight attendants could exercise their religious beliefs,” Ranty Astari Rachman, Citilink’s vice president of corporate social responsibility, told Arab News.
About 185 out of Citilink’s 750 female flight attendants wear headscarves in their daily lives, she said.
The new uniform, which comes in dark green and lime green colors, was designed by an Indonesian designer, Luis Vioni, and features a “Gurdo Aji” — a bird creature from Hindu mythology.
Rachman said the hijab uniform would not compromise flight attendants’ ability to provide safety and service for passengers.
Citilink, a low-cost subsidiary of Indonesia’s flag carrier Garuda Indonesia, includes Aceh — the only province in Indonesia with autonomy to impose shariah law — and Jeddah among its routes.
Rachman said that before the uniform was launched, the airline already had a special head covering for female flight attendants on both routes.
Aceh’s local administration announced in January that Muslim female flight attendants must wear headscarves when they fly in and out of the province, and non-Muslim flight attendants must dress modestly.
Aviation analyst Arista Atmadjati said the new uniform was timely since plenty of female flight attendants wore headscarves in their everyday lives.
“This is a good move to anticipate flying to destinations where Islamic culture is strong and modest attire for flight attendants would be preferred,” he said.
Indonesia’s Citilink cabin crew fly high with hijab uniform
Indonesia’s Citilink cabin crew fly high with hijab uniform
- The new uniform, which comes in dark green and lime green colors, was designed by an Indonesian designer, Luis Vioni.
- About 185 out of Citilink’s 750 female flight attendants wear headscarves in their daily lives.
Arwa Al-Banawi: ‘I always want women to feel comfortable, cool and confident’
DUBAI: Every young designer today who decides to go it alone with their own label must perfect a sort of solo high-wire act where the only way to look is forward. They must juggle cultural relevance, craft, representation, community and sustainability, and, all the while, create clothes that are not only covetable but actually say something about the world.
Since launching her eponymous label in 2015, Saudi designer Arwa Al-Banawi has navigated these pitfalls with flair and remains one of the Kingdom’s most exciting design talents. Now rebranded as the shorter, chicer, ARWÁ, Al-Banawi is preparing for her second act.
“I always had this in mind,” she says of the pivot, “that after a period of time and after the brand had developed, to make the name shorter and of course more recognizable internationally.” In addition to the new name, there’s a slick new e-commerce site and a collection of day-to-evening separates with permanent appeal, brought to life by a vibrant campaign featuring 70-year-old Swiss model Gabriela Rickli-Gerster.
The Al-Banawi hallmarks are all still there: exceptional tailoring, elegant cuts with a contemporary edge for modest dressing, messages of female empowerment, styling versatility and timeless design. This is not a reinvention but rather a reemergence and refinement of her vision.
“I always want women to feel comfortable, cool and confident, even when they are dressed conservatively — that’s why I love what I do and it has always been one of the main aesthetics of the brand. Especially for me, as an Arab designer who also likes to dress that way, it’s something important to deliver in the offerings.”
Born and raised in Jeddah, Al-Banawi “travelled a lot from a young age,” visiting family and vacationing in Europe – specifically Switzerland and Germany – which she credits as helping to shape the “eclectic East and West style” of her brand. But what put fashion on her radar in the first place?
“I have to say that’s really because of my parents,” she says. “They are very into art and have a beautiful, authentic sense of style…My mom collected Vogue from back in the 80s and still has this insane library of fashion magazines. I grew up naturally learning about all the historical fashion houses and feeling the fabrics in her closet.”
It’s hard not to attach meaning and emotional weight to clothing; what you wear not only reflects who you are and how you carry yourself, but also who you want to be — and no one understands this nuance better than women’s designers like Al-Banawi. Yes, there are feather trims, form-fitting maxi dresses and shimmering kaftans (a nod to her “graceful” mother) but there is also relaxed suiting, belted blazers and a monochrome trench coat with Arabic calligraphy on the lapel (inspired by her father and his love of sharp tailoring). Her approach is thoughtful, with attention to detail — versatile lengths, materials and colors – —that transcend demographics while mirroring the multifaceted and unique perspectives of women navigating the modern world.
“You have to be in touch with your instincts as a creative because it is a very emotional experience,” says Al-Banawi, who lets her autobiography lead. “Inspiration can come from anywhere. For me, the concept is simply to be creative, to have fun. Fashion is really just the medium where I found myself most connected and able to share my story.”
Much of the beauty industry is built on inspiring insecurity in consumers. It is worth billions worldwide and a big chunk of that is spent in the region, where perfectionism and high glamor are revered. Given the ubiquity of anti-ageing propaganda, it’s refreshing — encouraging even — to see Rickli-Gerster in Al-Banawi’s campaign visuals.
“When I hear terms like ‘dress your age’ when women get older…what does that even mean?! I really don’t like that,” Al-Banawi says. “The message with the campaign is to show that confidence has no age limit — it’s something you have to celebrate within yourself. I know how it feels when you put something on and you feel immediately transformed… empowered, strong, beautiful — you feel like you can do anything.”
Running an independent brand today is like being a musician and also owning the record label. To survive, you must be adaptable and incredibly self-aware, knowing that what you are producing is just as much a business as it is a creative project.
“At the beginning, most founders are also the CEO of their company…half-business, half-creative,” says Al-Banawi, adding that her father encouraged her to complete her degree in finance before entering the fashion world full-time. “His way of thinking was that school will not teach you to be creative — that’s already part of you — but it will teach you the skills to perform in the profession that you want. I’m very grateful for that.”
Her education has served her well, with a savvy business model that focuses on sustainable production values and limited supplies of seasonless investment pieces. She currently produces one or two main collections each year and two smaller drops to coincide with Ramadan and the summer season, eschewing the international calendar (like many of her regional peers) in favor of a strategy that complements both her goals and the needs of her customers.
What works in the West isn’t necessarily relevant or reflective of the varied infrastructures or medley of cultures that currently exists across the Arab world. There have been various attempts at regional fashion weeks since the mid-noughties, some with more success than others. But ultimately what these events revealed was that without a healthy backbone — proper programming, guidance from industry leaders and intelligent investment at grassroots level in the nurturing of design communities — they couldn’t gain the trust or support of the designers they intended to serve.
Burak Çakmak, the CEO of Saudi Arabia’s Fashion Commission, is attempting to change the narrative. In June 2021, he spearheaded the launch of the Saudi 100 Brands initiative, an annual, year-long development strategy for emerging local designers, educating them on everything required to grow a brand from the ground up with infrastructural support on Saudi soil. And last year saw the launch of Riyadh Fashion Week, where Al-Banawi showed her latest line.
“At the moment it makes sense for me to present once a year — to show the vibe of the brand, connect with customers and the press — and when I do, it would be in Riyadh,” Al-Banawi says, remarking on how far the country has come in building a credible fashion industry. “The talent has always been there,” she says, “but what the Fashion Commission is doing is incredible and I know more designers will keep coming through every year…like us, they are telling the story of Saudi, its rich culture and heritage, through their brands — we’re all very proud.”
Best and Worst: Saudi influencer, podcaster and entrepreneur Rae Joseph talks fashion and travel
DUBAI: The Saudi influencer, podcaster and entrepreneur discusses style and her favorite destinations.
Best TV show/film you’ve ever seen?
I don’t love anything too dark or too serious. I get too engaged, so if it’s something too heavy or emotional, it can really drag me down. So I avoid things that are intense or too dark. I enjoy shows that take me somewhere different. I love sitcoms like “Friends,” and shows like “Sex and the City.” I also like “Ugly Betty.” People make fun of me for that, but I loved it because it is just a happy show. It was a simple love story, enough to lift you up and keep the storyline going. Other than that, I do not follow a lot of series.
Worst TV show/film you’ve ever seen?
Like I said, I really don’t like dark things. I know it’s some people’s cup of tea, but it’s definitely not mine. I don’t like those.
Best personal style moment so far?
Whenever I feel most in my element and feeling the look. I love vintage. I have my own big collection of vintage pieces, and I love mixing them with modern pieces and with pieces from local brands. I love creating that fusion that I feel truly represents who I am, and kind of shows the possibility of translating different cultures, different realms, different eras, into personal style.
Worst personal style moment?
Let’s say my late teens. Well… maybe from 14 till my early 20s? I was very experimental — to a fault. I look at pictures and I’m, like, ‘What was I doing?’ I experimented with my makeup, with my hair — I dyed my hair so many different colors, so many different styles. But, honestly, as embarrassing as it was, I’m also grateful for that phase, because I feel like I got a lot of things out of my system. It helped me shape my own way of styling and enabled me to explore myself better without having any restrictions.
Best accessory for a little black dress?
Less is more. Adding just one simple piece of jewelry adds so much character. I love that kind of dynamic, and I think it says a lot about a person’s personal style.
Worst accessory for a little black dress?
Just over-accessorizing. You want to keep it chic — elevated and refined. You don’t want to overwhelm the look. You allow the dress to shine, and when the dress shines, you shine as well. When you don’t overcrowd the look, you wear the outfit, the outfit doesn’t wear you.
Best fashion trend of 2024?
I’m not really a trends person. I’m aware of them, but I don’t necessarily implement them in my personal style. But, I really enjoy that it’s heading away from loud, in-your-face fashion — the prints, the logos, all that busy style — and people are now opting for a more sophisticated, understated look. Simpler looks allow you to show your taste better, in my opinion. I think Gen Z are a big part of that change. They are dressing more true to themselves. They see fashion as a way of personal expression, as opposed to just following what trends are out there.
Worst fashion trend of 2024?
The worst thing is when you see people lost in their outfits, and you can tell it’s really them following whatever they read, whatever they saw on someone else, rather than personally expressing themselves.
Best advice you’ve ever been given?
With everyone having access to everyone’s life and what everyone’s doing with all these different websites and apps, I feel like there is a lot of, sometimes subconscious, pressure, where people see everyone’s journey and then get overwhelmed. But, at a relatively young age, someone told me, ‘Don’t worry. Everything happens to different people at different times. Everyone has a different journey.’ I think that allows me to be more content and live life more peacefully. And have healthier relationships.
Worst advice you’ve ever been given?
Any advice that pushes you to be something that isn’t who you are. Some people give advice where they’re suggesting that you change the core of who you are — your values, what you stand for. I always think that never works.
Best book you’ve ever read?
I really enjoy Iraqi author Ali Al-Wardi. I find him quite insightful, especially his writings about social dynamics and society. He was such a visionary that even when you read his works today, you find parallels with our society. They tell you a lot about people and who we are as societies and communities.
Worst book you’ve ever read?
If I don’t like a book, or I’m not connecting with it, I’ll just put it down.
Best thing to do when you’re feeling low?
What I do if I am overwhelmed or feeling some kind of stress or anxiety take solo walks. I love just grabbing a cup of coffee then going on a walk by myself, and clearing my mind and allowing myself to settle. Even if you don’t resolve the things that are causing you anxiety, I think you'll return from the walk feeling a bit more settled and you can probably make better decisions and think more clearly.
But if you mean you’re sad or depressed, then I think there's nothing better than spending time with someone you really trust — a family member or a very good friend. There’s so much power and human communication, as long as it’s with the right people. It could also be a therapist. Just spending time with someone who can understand, knows how to listen, and could give you helpful advice based on them knowing you.
Worst thing to do when you’re feeling good?
I think our brains sabotage us. We don’t allow ourselves to fully immerse ourselves in whatever is making us feel good. So I think you just have to try to relish it, and not think about other things. Just allow yourself to celebrate whatever it is that is making you feel good. Don’t take away from that. And make sure you share whatever is making you feel good with the right people.
Best holiday destination?
My three favorite cities — which I will never, ever be bored of — are New York, Paris and Cairo. Those cities have personalities. If you walk on the street by yourself, you don’t feel alone. They have so much character.
Worst holiday destination?
You see some people that go to the same place every year and do the same thing, see the same people. They don’t explore or expand their horizon. I don’t think that’s ‘the worst’ — it’s just unwise.
Best subject at school?
It makes me sound like a nerd, but I really enjoyed math. I really enjoyed equations and breaking them down and finding solutions.
Worst subject at school?
Physics is something that I just studied to pass my exams and get the grades. A lot of things did not add up for me.
Best thing to do to ensure you have a productive day?
I feel like starting the day right — whatever that looks like for you … maybe working out, maybe meditation, maybe spending time with family — and starting relatively early, sets you up well.
Worst thing to do when you’re trying to have a productive day?
Have a lot of distractions around. I think we became so addicted to checking our emails or messages, that it really can kill productivity. But we can try to control it as much as we can by limiting the distractions.
Amina Muaddi promotes ‘fuzzy’ collection
DUBAI: Jordanian Romanian luxury shoe designer Amina Muaddi is busy promoting her winter drops, with K-Pop star Rose wearing her heels in a recent photo shoot.
Muaddi took to Instagram to reshare Rose’s posts, where the star is seen being photographed for her latest single, “Number One Girl,” wearing a Lupita crystal slipper in green.
The designer’s latest collection, titled Drop 24/25, launched in October. Over the weekend, she used Instagram to promote winter-friendly shoes including the Veneda stretch boot, the Anok bootie and the Lila slipper.
In September, Muaddi unveiled her latest heels on none other than Rihanna, as the singing star was spotted at Milan Fashion Week. Muaddi created a custom pair of Anok mules in a shade called butter satin and Rihanna attended shows by Ferragamo, The Attico and Gucci, wearing each of the brands as she sat in the front row. She also turned heads at the Dior show during Paris Fashion Week last month, while French Saudi model Amira Al-Zuhair graced the runway for Danish fashion label Ganni.
Muaddi, a regular at Dior fashion shows, opted for a classic white button-down shirt and a sleek black satin pencil skirt. She accessorized her look with a pair of dark round sunglasses and a small textured blue Dior handbag.
Since launching her eponymous footwear line in August 2018, Muaddi has attracted a loyal following of celebrities including Dua Lipa, Gigi Hadid, Kylie Jenner and Hailey Bieber. Her brand, known for its distinctive footwear, bags and jewelry, has quickly become a favorite among the fashion elite.
Since the launch, Muaddi has enjoyed a series of successful events, notably her collaboration with Rihanna’s Fenty collection. Their partnership earned the Collaborator of the Year award at the 34th FN Achievement Awards in 2020.
A year later, Muaddi’s influence and success were further recognized when she was named one of Women’s Wear Daily and Footwear News’ 50 Most Powerful Women.
Manicurist to the stars keeps Cairo’s golden age alive
CAIRO: Nestled in a hidden alley off a bustling thoroughfare in the heart of the Egyptian capital sits an unassuming little manicure shop concealing a historic legacy.
Today, Madame Lucie’s small establishment is dwarfed by the sleek facades of modern cafes, fashion boutiques and fast food chains that have all but snuffed out Cairo’s old grandeur.
But decades ago, the shop’s seats were occupied by the likes of Nobel laureate Naguib Mahfouz, international singing sensation Dalida and cinematic heartthrob Omar Sharif, all of whom sought the now 88-year-old manicurist’s expert hand.
For over six decades, Layla Abdel Hakim Mekhtegian — more commonly known by her sobriquet Madame Lucie — has presided over her little shop, standing guard over its rich history.
For those who step inside the shop, which claims to be the country’s oldest manicurist, it is a step back in time to Cairo’s cosmopolitan heyday of the 1950s and 60s.
“Everything here is as it was 64 years ago,” the French-educated woman of Armenian descent told AFP.
Established in December 1960, the salon exudes old-world charm.
Outside, the name Lucie greets customers in old fluorescent signage in both Arabic and French.
Inside, antique manicure tables sit in front of sepia-toned photographs of the illustrious patrons of bygone times.
“Customers tell us, ‘Don’t change a thing’,” she said.
The list of Madame Lucie’s clientele reads like a roll call of Egypt’s cultural pantheon.
“Mahfouz would come in for a trim while fans waited outside to have his autograph,” Madame Lucie recalls with a nostalgic smile.
“Dalida? Always punctual.”
“Her fans used to come here when they heard that she visits the salon,” she continues.
“And Omar Sharif,” she adds softly, “did not talk much, but he was so charming.”
Madame Lucie is part of a generation of Armenian entrepreneurs who shaped much of downtown Cairo’s commercial life in the mid-20th century.
She and her enduring salon are among just a handful of businesses that survived former president Gamal Abdel Nasser’s nationalization drive of the 1960s.
Prior to that, Egypt’s Armenian community had peaked at 45,000 in the 1950s, playing a vibrant role in the country’s cultural and economic landscape.
Lucie acquired her craft at the age of 14 under the guidance of Marie, her mentor at Bata, the now-defunct, once-renowned department store in Cairo.
Together with her husband Jimmy and with the help of a Jewish investor, she transformed a printing house in downtown Cairo into her salon.
She has held fast to traditional nail treatments, shunning the more modern trends offered by many nail spas nowadays.
But her work goes beyond aesthetics, and many of her clients come for relief from painful conditions like calluses, ingrown nails and dead skin buildup.
She has in turn preserved not just the shop’s historic stature but also a loyal customer base for nearly as long.
“It is more of a treatment than a cosmetic thing,” said Effat Adel, a housewife in her fifties who has been visiting the salon for 37 years.
Sabry Ghoneim, an 89-year-old veteran journalist who has been a loyal customer for over four decades, said: “This place gives me peace of mind.”
Despite suggestions to expand, Lucie refuses.
“Why would I? This place is home,” she said.
“Every year, I update the sign outside to show how long we’ve been here. This December, it’ll say 65 years.”
Aquazzura’s Edgardo Osorio talks Saudi expansion amid ‘cultural revolution’
DUBAI: Fans of Italy-based luxury shoe brand Aquazzura are in good company, with the likes of Princess of Wales Kate Middleton, Beyonce and Meghan Markle showing off the label’s heels on numerous occasions. With new boutiques in Riyadh and Jeddah, creative director and founder Edgardo Osorio sat down with Arab News to discuss his decision to tap into the Saudi market.
The brand, founded in 2012, is going through a speedy expansion in the region with new boutiques opening in the Kingdom, Bahrain and Kuwait in 2024, with another UAE boutique sscheduled for 2025. This is after the brand’s first regional outlet opened in Dubai in 2018.
“It’s a very special time to be in Saudi and be a part of cultural revolution,” the Colombian designer said of his foray into Saudi Arabia at Riyadh’s Centria Mall and Jeddah’s Al-Khayyat Center — the brand’s first mono-brand concept stores in the country.
“We have a very large Saudi clientele already existing, at the shop here (in Dubai) the shop in London, and the shop in Paris, so for us it was a natural step.”
Fashion aficionados the world over will be familiar with Aquazzura’s often-copied designs, including the gem-encrusted Tequila Collection, the sparkling Gatsby Collection and the popular Twist line with its butter soft nappa leather and double padded insoles.
“The best sellers are the best sellers worldwide, but I think that Saudi women tend to dress up more,” Osorio said of Saudi footwear trends.
While a distinct focus on attention-grabbing heels is part of the Aquazzura design ethos, Osorio is keen to reiterate that the brand was born out of a desire to provide comfort.
“The reason (this) exists is because one summer I was invited to 13 weddings. I went to 12 … and I noticed women complaining about their shoes — and this was a time pre-designer sneakers, pre-there being all heel heights … Comfort was a dirty word in fashion at the time,” he said.
“And so I said … there’s an opportunity in the market to make beautiful, comfortable shoes because if you can choose, which one would you choose?”
That savvy insight proved to be the making of a designer who showed his fashion chops from a young age, interning at fashion companies in his native Colombia at the age of 14 before moving to London to study at the London College of Fashion at 16.
After dropping out to pursue a career at Italian accessories label Salvatore Ferragamo, Osorio found himself as the head of footwear at Roberto Cavalli at just 23.
His own venture began with the study of the human foot, a far cry of the glitz and glam of the red carpet where Osorio’s designs would end up.
“I worked with a technician who had been studying the human foot and making shoes for over 40 years and the way (our) shoes are constructed, the weight of your body is more evenly distributed … so our shoes are more ergonomic. The weight of your body is more evenly distributed between the front, the arch and the back.
“I also use extra-soft materials and I put in memory foam,” he said. “Almost nobody works like this. I don't know why except for me … and so obviously women feel the difference.”
Women and fashion’s leading awarding bodies, it seems, for Osorio has just been named Footwear News’s 2024 Designer of the Year — a prestigious prize in the international style industry.
Osorio was named Designer of the Year once before, in 2015, and he is part of a cohort of previous winners including Jordanian Romanian celebrity designer Amina Muaddi, London-based Charlotte Olympia Dellal and Italy’s Gianvito Rossi, among others.
“It’s obviously a huge honor to be recognised by my peers and by Footwear News … this is a very pivotal moment for the brand,” he said.
“(We are) part of a major expansion for the brand, in the major face of growth in a difficult moment, people are believing in us and people are choosing to buy and wear Aquazzura.
“When I launched Aquazurra, we were in the middle of an economic depression and everyone was telling me ‘you’re crazy to open a brand and to leave Cavalli’ … I read somewhere ‘crisis means opportunity’ … and in the moment of crisis is when you need to get crafty and creative,” he said.
Twelve years on, as his latest gilded boutique in the Middle East joins his growing list of international outlets, it seems the designer took a step in the right direction.
