Syrian refugees find hope in kitchen

US government-funded project for refugees in Turkey is called LIFE — Livelihoods Innovation through Food Entrepreneurship. (Supplied photo)
Updated 08 June 2018
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Syrian refugees find hope in kitchen

  • Falafel and hummus are helping displaced families get back on track after civil war derailed their lives
  • An estimated 3.5 million Syrian refugees live in Turkey after seven long years of civil war in their own country.

ISTANBUL: Ennam Alshayib wakes up every morning, grateful for her new life and renewed purpose. But memories of the last four years she has spent on the run from war-torn Syria still haunt her. 

First there was the arduous journey she took from Damascus with her family in tow, followed by their arrival in Egypt, desperate and tired. Then they went on to Dubai, before eventually reaching their new home in Turkey.

After a difficult start to her time here, the turning point came when she spotted a Facebook post from a US government-funded project for refugees in Turkey called LIFE — Livelihoods Innovation through Food Entrepreneurship.

She immediately applied to take part and was soon sitting in the LIFE office, inside a cozy four-story building in the middle of the main industrial zone of Istanbul.

An estimated 3.5 million Syrian refugees live in Turkey after seven long years of civil war in their own country. Many of them find it difficult to find regular employment, begging on the streets of Istanbul or living in squalid refugee camps.

LIFE, which was launched last September, aims to change that. It was started by a consortium of Turkish, Syrian and American partners who wanted to support refugees to earn a living through starting up restaurants and food businesses.

The two-year project is targeted at refugees in Gaziantep, near Turkey’s southern border with Syria, and Istanbul, with the goal of giving them greater independence and helping them integrate into Turkish society.

The project is to have a total of 1,240 direct beneficiaries, 75 percent of them Syrians, and at least half of them women. 

Participants are trained in various fields ranging from food marketing and hygiene, to e-commerce and packaging. 

At the end of the program, they publish their own cookbooks with recipes for Turkish, Syrian and other Middle Eastern dishes, as well as stories about the origins of each dish. Participants come from varying backgrounds, bringing with them different skills and experiences. 

“I graduated from university with a degree in pre-school education,” Alshayib told Arab News. “But I have always found the food industry attractive and have experience cooking for big events at the company my husband was working for in Damascus.”

Before joining the LIFE program, Alshayib was selling traditional Syrian foods, such as hummus and falafel, at the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. She hopes to set up her own Syrian restaurant in Turkey after graduating from the program.

Another participant, 48-year-old Jordanian Rabeia Alsheshany, also dreams of running her own business.

“I’m now in the middle of Europe and it’s become my home country. My daughter studies at university here and I would prefer to stay here for the rest of my life,” she said.

Each trainee is assigned a mentor. The program culminates in a competition during which the trainees will pitch their business plans to a panel of judges. The two most innovative will be chosen to receive financial support.

Ali Ercan Ozgur, is president of International Development Management, a Turkish civil society organization and one of the sponsors of LIFE. 

“The most important role of this project will be to support the skills that will help (refugees) have a sustainable livelihood,” he said. He described food as a “common language” that can help unite the people of Turkey and Syria.


Where We Are Going Today: ‘Marfa coffee’ in Alkhobar

Updated 25 May 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: ‘Marfa coffee’ in Alkhobar

  • Founded by Saudi entrepreneur Khaled Almsaad, Marfa is quite literally breathing new life into the neighborhood

If you are searching for a new spot in historic northern Alkhobar to enjoy high-quality coffee while immersing yourself in the local literary and arts scene, look no further than Marfa.

Marfa serves up expertly crafted coffees and a variety of freshly prepared pastries and snacks. Yes, they have matcha, too.

But your order comes with more than just a drink or a bite — you will get a taste of Alkhobar itself.

Tucked away in a quieter part of the city, history buffs will appreciate that the cafe directly overlooks the former site of the beloved Al-Shula Mall, which famously burned down years ago. That storied plot of land is now the view from the cafe’s windows.

Founded by Saudi entrepreneur Khaled Almsaad, Marfa is quite literally breathing new life into the neighborhood.

Almsaad launched his cultural initiative, Tanafs — which roughly translates to “breath” — during the COVID-19 lockdown.

The platform, now based upstairs from the cafe, is dedicated to bridging community and culture. It offers a range of creative activities and guided walking tours (when the weather is pleasant), all designed to encourage residents to explore their city on foot and enrich Alkhobar’s cultural fabric.

The upstairs space features a large communal table and regularly hosts vibrant events — from literary gatherings to workshops and community meetups. All attendees, of course, enjoy Marfa’s signature drinks and snacks.

When the weather is cool, the cafe spills out onto the sidewalk with plenty of outdoor seating. But the real charm lies inside. The intimate interior feels more like a cozy home and it is just as welcoming.

Check out @marfa_sa on Instagram for more details.

 


FZN and Tresind Studio become first restaurants in Dubai to receive 3 Michelin stars

Updated 23 May 2025
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FZN and Tresind Studio become first restaurants in Dubai to receive 3 Michelin stars

  • They received the coveted classification at the city’s 4th annual Michelin Guide Awards ceremony on Thursday
  • 2 venues achieve their first Michelin star: Thai-inspired Manao and Indian restaurant Jamavar; Dubai-born Abhiraj Khatwani of Manao receives Young Chef Award

DUBAI: In a first for Dubai, the Michelin Guide has awarded its highest rating of three stars to not one but two of the city’s restaurants.

European-inspired FZN by Bjorn Frantzen and Indian-South African venue Tresind Studio received the coveted classification at the fourth annual Michelin Guide Awards ceremony on Thursday at the Address Sky View Hotel.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by FZN Dubai (@restaurantfzn)

Accepting the award, Indian chef Himanshu Saini, who runs Tresind Studio, said: “Thank you everyone. It is a great honor and pleasure. This has been a marathon for many years. Today, I feel honored to be able to receive the distinctive award.”

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by FZN Dubai (@restaurantfzn)

A representative of FZN said: “Thank you so much … wow. What a moment, what an achievement. I am speechless but, again, we are representing a strong and talented team that relocated here for the purpose of representing FZN in Dubai and going all in.”

Three restaurants retained their two-star status: Il Ristorante — Niko Romito; Row on 45; and Stay by Yannick Alleno.

Two venues received their first Michelin star: the Thai-inspired Manao, which opened only a few months ago, and Indian restaurant Jamavar.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by @manao_dubai

They join 12 other establishments that retained their one-star rating: 11 Woodfire; Al-Muntaha; Avatara; Dinner by Heston Blumenthal; Hakkasan; Hoseki; La Dame de Pic Dubai; Moonrise; Orfali Bros; Ossiano; Smoked Room; and Tasca by Jose Avillez.

Manao’s Mohammed Orfali, who accepted the award alongside his team, said: “It means a lot. We opened five months ago. It is a different age for the food scene in the city. Now, we take on more responsibility.”

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by @manao_dubai

Michelin also added five new restaurants to its Bib Gourmand list: Duo Gastrobar — Creek Harbour; Harummanis; Hawkerboi; Khadak; and Surfret Maryam. The Bib Gourmand section, introduced by Michelin in 1997, shines the spotlight on restaurants offering authentic and memorable culinary experiences at moderate prices, honoring quality and value.

The five new additions join 17 existing venues on the list: 21 Grams; 3Fils; Aamara; Al-Khayma Heritage Restaurant; Bait Maryam’ Berenjak; Duo Gastrobar — Dubai Hills; Goldfish’ Hoe Lee Kow; Indya by Vineet; Kinoya; Konjiki Hototogisu; Reif Japanese Kushiyaki — Dar Wasl; Reif Japanese Kushiyaki — Dubai Hills; Revelry; Shabestan; and Teible.

Three restaurants — Boca, Lowe and Teible — retained their Michelin Green Star awards, in recognition of their commitment to sustainable practices.

In the special awards categories, chef Sin Keun Choi of Ronin was honored with the Opening of the Year Award; chef Shiv Menon of Boca received the Sommelier Award; and the Service Award went to Mohammed Galal of Al-Khayma Heritage Restaurant.

The Young Chef Award went to 30-year-old, Dubai-born Abhiraj Khatwani of Manao, who said: “It does mean a lot. It is not just me, its (an award for) the whole team. Thank you so much for the recognition. We are just new, so its about retaining and sustaining.”


Recipes for success: Chef Gabriela Chamorro offers advice and a passion fruit ceviche recipe  

Updated 22 May 2025
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Recipes for success: Chef Gabriela Chamorro offers advice and a passion fruit ceviche recipe  

 DUBAI: For Gabriela Chamorro, cooking is not about complexity; it’s about heart, intention and staying connected to her roots. 

As founder and executive chef of Girl & the Goose, Dubai’s first restaurant dedicated to central American cuisine, she offers a personal take on traditional dishes from Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Guatemala and Panama. 

Chamorro focuses on thoughtful cooking that highlights the essence of each ingredient. Whether it’s a humble tortilla or an intricate yuca gnocchi, every dish is designed to share a story and evoke a sense of home, she says.  

When you started out what was the most common mistake you made?  

I believed that complexity was the best way to showcase my skills: the more elements on the plate, the more impressive the dish. But over time, I’ve learned that simplicity, when executed with intention and love, is far more powerful. I used to overcomplicate dishes by adding too many elements or overthinking the presentation. Now, I find that true mastery lies in perfecting something humble, like a pipian verde, or a well-made guirila.  

What’s your top tip for amateur chefs? 

Recipes are helpful, but your intuition is your best tool. Taste as you go and let your senses lead the way. I see cooking as a conversation between you and your ingredients. It should feel like a warm embrace, not a stressful performance. Stay present and enjoy the process. And invest in a good set of sharp knives; they make everything easier — and safer — in the kitchen. 

What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish? 

Lime is a game-changer in central American cooking. Its bright, zesty acidity lifts and elevates flavors, adding a refreshing pop to any dish. It doesn’t just add flavor, it adds soul. Lime is the kind of ingredient that turns something good into something unforgettable.  

When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?  

I’m definitely someone who notices details, but when I dine out, I’m more focused on how the experience makes me feel overall. I look for warmth and a genuine sense of care, both in the food and in the service. You can taste when a dish is made with heart and intention, and you can feel the difference when hospitality goes beyond being just transactional. It’s that human touch that stays with you.  

What’s your favorite cuisine to order? 

I tend to gravitate toward Middle Eastern cuisine, perhaps because it evokes the same warmth, generosity and layered flavors that I associate with Latin hospitality. There’s something deeply comforting about a vibrant mezze spread or a slow-cooked lamb dish. They speak volumes without saying a word. 

What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home? 

I love making a simple dish, like a fresh tortilla with cheese, cream, scrambled eggs, gallopinto and a quick avocado salad. It’s the kind of meal that feels like a hug and transports me back home.  

What customer behavior most annoys you? 

When a customer treats one of my team members with less respect or kindness than they would offer me. I believe in mutual respect across all levels. The magic of hospitality only thrives when everyone — guests and employees alike — feels seen, valued and appreciated.  

What’s your favorite dish to cook and why? 

Fried fish with tomato sauce and rice, just like Mireya from Masachapa, Nicaragua (a major influence on Chamorro’s cooking) makes it, is my absolute favorite. It’s a nostalgic recipe that transports me back to the coastal breeze, the rhythm of the waves, and the warmth of a family keeping their traditions alive with love. Every time I prepare this dish, I feel deeply connected to my roots, to home, and to the simple joys of life. Cooking isn’t just about the food, it’s about preserving a piece of something timeless and meaningful. 

What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?  

Our yuca gnocchi served with a rich, delicate lobster bisque demands precision and patience. Yuca can be unpredictable, and achieving the right texture for gnocchi requires a delicate balance: too soft and it falls apart, too firm and it loses its melt-in-your-mouth quality. Then there’s the bisque, which needs layers of flavors to develop, offering depth and elegance. But, when it all comes together, it is magic. It’s a dish that humbles me every time, reminding me of the importance of attention to detail and the heart put into each step. 

As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback? 

I’m a very passionate chef who holds high standards, but I believe that the best kitchens are built on mutual respect, joy and collaboration. I lead with kindness and purpose because a great service should feel like a well-rehearsed dance with people you trust.  

 Chef Gabriela’s passion fruit ceviche 

Ingredients:  

500g organic seabass, diced into ½ inch pieces 

120g passion-fruit puree 

80g coconut cream 

50g red onions  

10g ginger 

15g garlic 

10g coriander stems 

10g celery 

3g salt 

Passion fruit coconut cream preparation:  

Peel and clean the onions, use only the hearts. 

Remove the leaves from the coriander, only use the stems. 

Peel garlic and ginger. 

Dice all the vegetables. 

Coarsely blend all the ingredients on medium speed along with the passion fruit puree.  

Strain through a fine mesh. 

Combine with the coconut cream and blend on medium speed. 

Refrigerate until ready to use.  

Plating:  

Place the raw fish in a serving bowl, pour the passion fruit coconut cream on top of it, and garnish according to taste. 


L’Oreal Middle East exec looks to help doctors build an online presence

Updated 22 May 2025
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L’Oreal Middle East exec looks to help doctors build an online presence

DUBAI: L’Oreal’ Medfluencer Academy recently hosted more than 200 healthcare professionals at an event in Abu Dhabi designed to help doctors build and scale their online presence, with the General Manager of L’Oréal Dermatological Beauty Middle East telling Arab News the move was in line with the French company’s recognition of “the power of social media.”

“We recognize the power of social media, especially in the GCC region, where the young, highly connected population often turns to platforms like TikTok, Instagram, and Snapchat for skincare advice,” Sanaa Bougazzoul told Arab News, explaining that the decision to launch the Medfluencer Academy worldwide was due to the fact that “while these platforms offer access to a lot information, we see also misinformation that can be detrimental to skin health.”

Sanaa Bougazzoul. (Supplied)

Empowering medical professions to “become effective communicators on social media” is a key aim of the initiative, with May’s event in the UAE — the first Medfluencer Academy held in the region — hosting panels, workshops and breakout sessions by experts from Meta, TikTok, Snapchat and the VML agency.

“Our aim is to equip dermatologists with expertise to navigate the digital landscape confidently, creating engaging, science backed content that resonates with the consumers,” Bougazzoul explained.

She also noted that steps should be taken to ensure qualified medical experts on social media are labelled as such, by means of a tag or disclaimer.

“A verified tag for licensed medical professionals would be a positive step toward building trust and protecting users. It would help distinguish evidence-based advice from unqualified or misleading content.”

When it comes to her top three tips for medical professionals with a social media presence, Bougazzoul said: “Simplify, don’t dilute, be consistent and human and use each platform’s strengths.”

 


Where We Are Going Today: Jon & Vinny’s

Updated 18 May 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: Jon & Vinny’s

A slice of Los Angeles flair has landed on Prince Sultan Street in Jeddah with the arrival of Jon & Vinny’s, a lively eatery drawing crowds with its take on Italian comfort food.

The restaurant, located in La Paz Plaza, has a warm, energetic ambiance with a setting that is modern yet relaxed, with high ceilings, wooden accents and a clean design palette dominated by shades of green.

The showcase of their pizza boxes and a few quirky touches like neon signs add character to the space.

Reservations are a must unless you are up for a long wait. Fortunately, they hand out coloring pencils and quirky food-themed sheets to help kill time, which is especially handy if you are dining with kids.

The menu is straightforward but thoughtfully curated, starting with breakfast staples like a standout grilled ciabatta salad and tender braised Tuscan kale.

Among the most talked-about dishes are the hand-tossed pizzas, with dough fermented for two days before hitting the oven.

The Bronx Bomber, topped with fennel sausage, onions, garlic and herbs, is rich and rustic, while the Rosy keeps it simple with tomato and olive oil, elevated by an optional layer of parmigiano reggiano.

Salads also hold their own on the menu, especially the caprese, featuring buffalo mozzarella and tomato vinegar, and the gem lettuce salad, dressed in a zesty Calabrian chili vinaigrette and finished with parmigiano reggiano as well as breadcrumbs.

Pasta is made fresh in-house and ranges from a bold rigatoni slow-cooked in beef bolognese to a creamy, spicy fusilli with basil.

Meat dishes like the garlic buffalo wings and chicken cutlet with lemon-dressed greens are decent, but they do not outshine the pastas or pizza.

Dessert is not to be skipped. The hazelnut cafe bombolone was light yet indulgent, and the lemon ricotta cookie added a nice finish to the meal.

In terms of cost, I expected it to be pricey, but it was fairly reasonable. A full meal for four, with dishes from each section, came to about SR300–350 ($80-93).

For more, check Instagram @jonandvinnys.ksa.