Meet the cheese maker with a lot of bottle

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Razan Alsous decided to make her own halloumi after a fruitless search for the family staple. Her Yorkshire Dama Cheese firm (below) now employs eight people and counts Princess Anne (far left) among its admirers. (Alex Cousins)
Updated 20 August 2018
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Meet the cheese maker with a lot of bottle

YORKSHIRE, UK: This is a very cheesy story, in the best possible way. It is also a story about resourcefulness, determination and how to build a new life when an old one is lost.
It takes place in a small factory in northern England, where Razan Alsous, 34, a refugee from the war in her native Syria, is forging a reputation as a producer of top-quality halloumi cheese.
She founded her company, Yorkshire Dama Cheese (Dama being short for Damascus) in 2014, less than two years after arriving in England with her husband, Raghid Sandouk, 53, and their three children. Just four months later, Razan won a bronze medal at the World Cheese Awards. The following year she took gold.
Now branded Yorkshire Squeaky Cheese, her halloumi went on sale earlier this year in 40 branches of Morrisons, one of Britain’s biggest supermarket chains. It was an instant hit and now Morrisons want to stock it in 275 stores nationwide.
Sainsbury’s and Waitrose, the supermarket giants, also want Razan’s halloumi on their shelves. No wonder, then, that Yorkshire Dama Cheese is looking into acquiring more equipment and bigger premises to meet the increasing clamour for its products.
For a young mother-of-three with zero experience of the food industry to go from complete novice to prize-winner in a matter of months would be impressive enough if Razan had lived in Yorkshire all her life.
That she started a business in a foreign country, with unfamiliar laws and customs, and is succeeding, makes her story inspirational.
Being foreign, from Syria, and a Muslim, has barely provoked comment, she said.
“There was a taxi driver — an Asian — who asked me if I was Muslim. I said, ‘Look at me, I’m wearing a headscarf, of course I’m Muslim.’ And he said he thought I might be a nun.
“Generally, I find people are not focused on how I look. They focus on the product. They see someone who is working hard, trying to do something and they want to support you. It’s very positive. I love the personal contact I have with the farmers, who accepted me straight away. I see that England and Syria are quite similar. They are both old civilizations that value history. I feel I am with people who understand me.”
Until six years ago, the family enjoyed a comfortable, middle-class lifestyle with a home on the outskirts of Damascus. Razan, who has a degree in microbiology, was studying pharmacology at Damascus University. Raghid, an electronics engineer, owned his own company supplying quality control equipment to the pharmaceutical industry.
When the conflict began in 2011, they tried to suppress their fears, even as it began to affect their lives more and more.
“We couldn’t visit our family. Each time Raghid went to work I didn’t know if he’d be back. His warehouse was smashed up by armed gangs. There were people being kidnapped just for dealing with British companies,” said Razan.
Then, on July 23, 2012, a car bomb exploded outside the building where Raghid had his office.
“He called me and said, ‘I’m alive but everything is destroyed.’ All he could see was dust,” said Razan. Three days later, the family were on a plane out of Syria.
“My father didn’t want us to leave. He said everything will be all right, and if it had just been Raghid and me, we would have stayed. It was harder for Raghid because he had a business he had built up over 15 years, with 15 employees. I asked him to leave. I could cope with no electricity. I could cope with limited water. I could cope with everything except lack of safety for my children. You can’t just sit there and wait to die.”
The family came to the UK because Raghid had a multiple-entry business visa and they had connections in the country. Raghid’s grandfather used to travel regularly to Huddersfield, a wool-producing town, to buy cloth for his textile shop, and Raghid’s brother had settled there 30 years ago.
Although the couple clung to the belief that their stay would be temporary, Raghid’s brother advised them to apply for asylum. Razan was granted temporary permission to stay after five weeks. For Raghid, it took almost two years.
“At first, we felt we were on holiday. It was summer, people were relaxed,” said Razan. But with the Syrian pound plummeting in value, their life savings were quickly depleted. They could not get jobs as their qualifications were not recognized. Nor could they study to re-qualify. Razan picked up some translation work, but it was irregular. She hated “signing on” — applying for welfare benefits.
Razan hit on her business idea one day after a fruitless search for halloumi that tasted as good as the cheese that is a staple of family breakfasts back home in Syria. The shops stocked what she describes as “tasteless” halloumi, imported from Cyprus, and made with powdered milk.
“That’s when it struck me: I would make cheese,” she said.
In her research she discovered that the British were the biggest consumers of halloumi in Europe. Her brother-in-law, who owned a string of fast-food businesses, gave her the use of the kitchen in a defunct chicken shop, where she spent a year experimenting with recipes. She found the key ingredient right under her nose.
“Yorkshire milk. The quality is excellent — much creamier with a high percentage of solids,” said Razan. “In Syria, the best halloumi is made in springtime when the grass is new and green. But here the climate is more consistent for good pasture, so the milk is more consistent in quality.”
She mentioned her idea to an adviser at the local Job Center, who referred her to the Enterprise Agency. She was assigned a mentor who steered her through researching the market and drawing up a business plan before applying for a start-up loan.
She received £2,500 to be repaid within two years. The loan was not enough to buy all the equipment she needed, but the ever-resourceful Raghid adapted an ice-cream maker so that it heated the milk instead of cooling it, and converted an insulated fish tank into a fridge.
They began by selling to local delis and cafes. Razan spent her last £500 on the fee for an exhibitor’s stall at the Harrogate Fine Food Show. It proved to be a wise move.
“People loved the cheese and we met our first distributor. He said: ‘This is what we need in Yorkshire,’ and we are still working with him.”
Four months after beginning production, they entered the World Cheese Awards, held in the huge exhibition center in London’s Olympia. It was an eye-opener.
“We knew nothing about it. There were 2,750 different cheeses on display, big blocks of Cheddar … and we arrived with just a few blocks of cheese. We looked very silly,” said Razan. Her initial reaction was to turn and go home. But Raghid said they might as well stay and just enjoy it.
To their amazement, they won the bronze medal. “We were jumping around, shouting. I phoned all my family. We were overjoyed.”
The next year, they entered again and won gold. “It proved the first time was not a fluke. We really did have a good product that people like,” said Razan.
The walls and every spare surface of the office above the factory floor are now covered in awards. For the Queen’s 90th birthday in 2016, they supplied cheese for the British embassy party in Vienna.
Razan and her halloumi have appeared on television and when he was prime minister, David Cameron nominated her as an ambassador for International Women’s Day in 2015.
Last year, Yorkshire Dama Cheese moved out of the disused chicken shop into their current premises on a small industrial estate. Princess Anne, the Queen’s daughter, came to open the new factory last year and stayed for lunch.
“She requested it, and she stayed almost two hours, much longer than her schedule,” said Raghid. “It was a proud day,” Razan said.
The 1,200 liters of milk collected daily from a local dairy farmer is turned into around 2,500 blocks of halloumi each week. The Yorkshire Squeaky Cheese brand came about because Cyprus was seeking Protected Designated Origin status for the halloumi name, a label granted by the EU to a small number of products. The name stuck.
“It works because the test of good halloumi is the squeak when you squeeze it, and also kids like it,” said Razan.
As well as five varieties of halloumi, they make labneh, also labelled “spreadable yogurt” for customers unfamiliar with the Middle Eastern name. The whey left over from making halloumi becomes ricotta cheese. Nothing is wasted and nothing is added, said Razan.
Weekends are spent at food fairs and farmers’ markets. Sales to restaurants, independent shops and online customers have “gone crazy” in the past six months.
They have now bought a house and the children — Angie, 9, Yara, 8, and Kareem, 6 — are happily settled in school. “They are Yorkshire kids now. They laugh at my accent,” said Razan.
Razan’s parents and siblings have followed her to Britain. Her father volunteers at the Buzz Project, running community beehives, where he is known by the nickname Mr. Honey.
Though it pains her to admit it, the prospect of returning to Damascus is receding. “I cannot close down because we have eight employees depending on us,” said Razan. “But I want my children to know where they came from and we will take them when it is safe.”
That’s not all they intend to take back to Syria.
“We aim to export our halloumi to Syria,” said Raghid. “With Yorkshire milk and Syrian know-how, we will make the UK the halloumi capital of the world.”


Where We Are Going Today: Korean Palace Restaurant in Riyadh

Updated 09 June 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: Korean Palace Restaurant in Riyadh

  • The cheese tteokbokki came bubbling in a hot stone bowl, spicy and rich, with gooey cheese melting into the sweet chili sauce

Tucked away on Al-Takhassusi Street, Korean Palace is one of Riyadh’s oldest spots for Korean cuisine, and a nostalgic throwback for those who value flavor over flash.

It’s visibly dated, with worn interiors and a lingering scent that suggests it could benefit from a deep renovation. Still, what it lacks in ambiance, it more than makes up for in taste.

We started with complimentary Korean sides, pickled radish, kimchi, and marinated greens, a generous and flavorful tradition that sets the tone. Then came a table full of classics, each arriving surprisingly fast.

The highlight of the evening? The transparent glass noodles, chewy, perfectly seasoned, and bursting with umami. This was hands down the best dish, and one I’d return for.

The cheese tteokbokki came bubbling in a hot stone bowl, spicy and rich, with gooey cheese melting into the sweet chili sauce.

We also ordered the bibimbap, served hot with colorful vegetables and beef, and the beef sizzling plate, which was tender and satisfying.

The dumplings, delicately wrapped in cabbage leaves, were comforting but mild. The only miss was the tofu soup, which fell flat in flavor and didn’t deliver the depth I expected.

Despite the outdated setting, the overall food quality was impressive. It’s a place that reminds you why people still queue up for spots like this, for food that feels home-cooked, unapologetically traditional, and generously portioned.

Don’t come expecting a trendy hangout. Come for hearty Korean food that gets the job done.

 


Where We Are Going Today: Past Nine cafe

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Updated 06 June 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: Past Nine cafe

  • Past Nine cafe is highly recommended for its cozy vibe, delicious coffee and engaging events

Nestled in the Al-Nahdha district of Jeddah, Past Nine cafe has quickly become a local favorite, combining great food, excellent coffee and a vibrant but easygoing atmosphere.

One of the standout features of Past Nine is its diverse menu. The hibiscus juice is refreshingly tangy and perfect for a hot day, while the waffles are crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside.

I had a V60 coffee and a Matilda cake, which was a delightful combination.

While the laid-back vibe — including lots of comfy couches — is ideal for those working remotely, the cafe also hosts regular performances by local bands, enhancing its appeal as a social hub.

There are also board game nights featuring established favorites like Jenga and Monopoly, while those who like their fun a little more high-tech can take advantage of the PS5 consoles.

Upstairs is a dedicated area for smokers.

Past Nine cafe is highly recommended for its cozy vibe, delicious coffee and engaging events. It also offers discounts for occasions like Founding Day and National Day.

If you’re looking for a place to relax, work or enjoy some live music, this place is definitely worth a visit.

 


Recipes for success: Chef Vincenzo Palermo offers advice and a spaghetti al pomodoro recipe 

Updated 06 June 2025
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Recipes for success: Chef Vincenzo Palermo offers advice and a spaghetti al pomodoro recipe 

DUBAI: Vincenzo Palermo, head pizza chef at TOTO Dubai, has built his career on one belief: “Pizza isn’t just comfort food, it’s a craft.”  

Originally from Apulia in southern Italy, Palermo has spent years refining his skills. His journey began early, watching the baking process in his family kitchen as a child. He went on to study at Rome’s API Pizza Academy.  

Over the past 14 years, his career has taken him from Italy to Russia, France, the US and now the UAE, with his pizzas earning international recognition and awards along the way — including a historic win as the youngest-ever World Champion of Neapolitan Pizza in 2018.  

Vincenzo Palermo is the head pizza chef at TOTO Dubai. (Supplied)

When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made? 

I believed that cooking was just about combining ingredients correctly and adhering strictly to techniques. My focus was on the mechanical aspects of executing everything “correctly,” but I didn’t always bring myself into the dish; that was my biggest mistake. 

Coming from a family where food was never just food — it was tradition, emotion, and memory — I learned discipline and focus. Over time, I realized that every dish must tell a story. It could be a childhood memory, a moment of celebration, or simply a feeling you want to share, but if you do not put your heart into it, then no matter how perfect the dish appears, it lacks soul. 

The kitchen is not just about skill and technique, it’s a place for passion. Food is a language, and love is the message. That is what I try to pass on now, both to my team and on every plate that leaves the kitchen. 

What’s your top tip for amateur chefs? 

My journey began in a very humble way. I was just a child when I first stepped into the kitchen, helping my mother, making my first pizzas and simple pastas with curiosity and joy. That passion never left me. So, my top tip is this: Do not underestimate yourself just because you are cooking at home. Get into the flow, cook with heart and love, and do not place limits on what you think is possible. Everything we create in a professional kitchen, even the most refined dishes, can absolutely be recreated at home with the right mindset. Cooking is mostly about emotion, not technique, and that emotion can be felt whether you’re in a Michelin-level kitchen or your own. Believe in your hands, trust your ingredients, and enjoy the process. 

Margherita pizza. (Supplied)

What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish? 

I’d say flour. The right flour for the right dish is absolutely essential. In Italy, we don’t just say “flour,” we talk about “tipo 00,” “semola rimacinata,” “integrale”… Each type of flour has a specific purpose, and choosing the right one shows respect for the dish and the tradition behind it. Using the right flour is like choosing the right language to express yourself. It’s the base of everything, the foundation. Even for home cooks, this choice can make the difference between something good and something truly authentic. 

When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?  

As a chef, it is natural to notice the details, but I try to approach it with an open mind. 

What’s the most common mistake or issue you find in other restaurants? 

A lack of authenticity and a disconnect between the dish and its cultural roots. Authenticity and consistency are key, and when they’re missing, it affects the overall experience. 

When you go out to eat, what’s your favorite cuisine or dish to order? 

Honestly, I love to try everything. For me, eating out is about enjoying food and learning. Every culture has its own traditions, techniques and flavors, and I want to understand the story behind each dish.  

I’m always curious. I taste something new, study it, and then think about how that ingredient or idea could inspire something in my own kitchen. That is how we grow as chefs — by keeping our minds open and constantly learning from others. 

What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home? 

Without a doubt, it’s spaghetti al pomodoro. What could be more Italian than that? It is full of soul. I love it because it represents everything I believe in: simplicity, quality and passion. When I cook it at home, even if I’m short on time, I give it my full attention, from choosing the best tomatoes and olive oil to making sure the Gragnano pasta is cooked perfectly al dente, which is non-negotiable. 

TODO Dubai. (Supplied)

What customer request most annoys you? 

Requests that compromise the integrity of a traditional dish can be challenging. While I fully respect dietary restrictions and personal preferences, altering a classic recipe beyond recognition takes away from its authenticity. I believe in educating diners about the origins and significance of each dish to foster greater appreciation and respect. 

What’s your favorite dish to cook? 

Pizza. It’s more than just my profession, it’s a piece of my heart. I have a vivid memory from my childhood: my mother and sister in our home kitchen, cooking pizza in a pan. Of course, it was not the “right” way by traditional standards — she was not a trained chef, she was a home cook — but, like many Italian mothers, she found her own way to make something special with what she had. 

Even if the technique was not perfect, the love and passion she put into it made it unforgettable. Sometimes my sister would join her, and for me, that pan pizza became a symbol of family, comfort and creativity. Pizza means everything to me because of what it represents: love, family and the joy of making something beautiful from the heart. 

What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right? 

For me, it’s fish. It may seem simple, but it’s not easy to cook perfectly. Fish is delicate. You must respect the texture, the temperature and the timing. One second too much, and it’s dry. One second too little, and it’s raw. I always need to stay focused and keep learning. That challenge is part of what makes it so rewarding when you get it just right. 

As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback? 

Honestly, I can’t stand chefs who shout. We’ve seen it too many times in movies and on TV: the angry chef screaming, throwing pans, creating fear in the kitchen. Unfortunately, this happens in a lot of kitchens. But this is not leadership. This is not how great food is made. The kitchen is not a battlefield, and the people around me are not soldiers or slaves — they are humans, artists, professionals. As any of my team will tell you, I’m calm; I like to joke, and I create a relaxed environment. That doesn’t mean we’re not serious. When it’s time to push, I push. But we push together — fast, sharp, focused — as a team. Respect is the true foundation of a great kitchen. When people feel valued and inspired, not afraid, they cook with love. And that love is what reaches the plate. 

Chef Vincenzo Palermo’s spaghetti al pomodoro recipe 

Ingredients: 

200 gr spaghetti from gragnano  

300 gr San Marzano peeled tomato 

Fresh basil 

2 cloves of garlic 

Salt 

Pepper 

4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil 

Parmesan cheese 

Instructions: 

In a pan, gently sauté crushed garlic in olive oil. 

Add the tomatoes and let cook for about 10–15 minutes and add salt and pepper. 

In a pot, put water and salt and make it boil. 

Boil spaghetti until al dente, then transfer it to the sauce with a bit of cooking water. 

Toss everything together and finish with fresh basil and a drizzle of olive oil.  

Serve it with a gentle parmesan cheese on the top. 

Buon appetito!  


Where We Are Going Today: Meez Restaurant

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Updated 05 June 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: Meez Restaurant

  • The chicken and burrata pasta is a wonderful dish with a spicy kick, though not essential

Meez, located in both Jeddah and Riyadh, is a vibrant culinary destination that embodies the rich tapestry of Middle Eastern cultures. This establishment captures the essence of the region with its warm hospitality, lively music, and visual feast of colors and spices. It is clear that the founders set out to create a space that celebrates everything we cherish about Middle Eastern traditions.

The menu at Meez is a delightful fusion of flavors, showcasing what they call “Fusion Middle Eastern” cuisine. Each dish is crafted from homegrown ingredients and inspired by cherished family recipes, resulting in unique culinary creations that are both familiar and innovative.

Visitors will find the eggplant fatteh amazing, while the shrimp fatteh is also delicious and distinctive. The musakhan popsicles, however, seemed to be lacking something. The hummus is fantastic, even though it is slightly off season.

The chicken and burrata pasta is a wonderful dish with a spicy kick, though not essential. Likewise, the meat tabliya with dough is a nice addition but not particularly special.

All dishes are well-prepared in both taste and presentation. The restaurant was pleasantly quiet during our noon visit, allowing visitors to fully enjoy the atmosphere.

Meez also excels at breakfast offerings. Visitors are warmly welcomed with milk tea, a lovely touch. The makdous is served atop labneh and fried dough, harmoniously blending sour and nutty flavors. The mini falafel is presented on sticks, accompanied by hummus, potatoes, eggplant, and fried cauliflower, enhanced by a special lemon sauce.

The omelette is served on seasoned sour bread, making it an innovative and complete dish. The musakhan is sweet but could have benefited from a touch of pomegranate molasses.

The egg dish with mushroom and avocado was quite delicious and the pakiza dish is a delightful meshaltet pie with a distinctive sweet dip and well worth trying.

The service at Meez deserves special mention. The waiters are attentive and expedite orders quickly, allowing you to enjoy your meal without feeling rushed. The refreshing lemonade is a highlight as well.

Meez is a fantastic spot for a quick yet flavorful meal, combining excellent food with outstanding service. It is highly recommended for anyone looking to explore the vibrant flavors of Middle Eastern cuisine in a welcoming environment.

 


Content creators in Saudi Arabia lean into skincare science

Updated 04 June 2025
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Content creators in Saudi Arabia lean into skincare science

DUBAI: As skincare continues to dominate the beauty conversation online, Arab News caught up with two Saudi influencers to understand more about how they are tailoring their content in an age where science-backed skincare is a key part of any makeup routine.

Sara Ali and Sarleen Ahmed attended L’Oréal’s first-ever Skin Summit in Riyadh that convened more than 400 content creators.

“Since the summit, I’ve started asking myself ‘does this product have real value? Is it backed by research? Is it something I’d recommend with confidence?’ Now, my content isn’t just about the glow, it’s about the why behind the glow,” Ali told Arab News.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by SA | (@sarleenaa)

As beauty influencers are increasingly expected to provide at least a cursory explanation about the skincare products they recommend, Ahmed explained that “when you start understanding the science behind formulations and the long-term impact of ingredients, it brings a whole new level of purpose to the content you share.”

“I used to talk about how something made me feel – now, I want to talk about how it works,” Ali added.

Dr. Richard Betts, scientific director at the consumer products division at L'Oréal SAPMENA, agrees with the push to inform beauty influencers.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by SARA ALI | @eso.1ah)

“As a scientist, I believe bridging scientific expertise with creator-led storytelling is not just important, it is essential, especially in a market like Saudi Arabia, where digital engagement is amongst the highest globally,” he explained.

Digital penetration in the Kingdom stands at a staggering 99 percent, according to the Communications, Space and Technology Commission. And with around half the population sitting within the under-30 age range, it is no wonder that skincare companies are looking to leverage beauty influencers.

“Content creators have a unique ability to turn complex science into relatable, everyday skincare knowledge,” Betts noted.