Meet the cheese maker with a lot of bottle

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Razan Alsous decided to make her own halloumi after a fruitless search for the family staple. Her Yorkshire Dama Cheese firm (below) now employs eight people and counts Princess Anne (far left) among its admirers. (Alex Cousins)
Updated 20 August 2018
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Meet the cheese maker with a lot of bottle

YORKSHIRE, UK: This is a very cheesy story, in the best possible way. It is also a story about resourcefulness, determination and how to build a new life when an old one is lost.
It takes place in a small factory in northern England, where Razan Alsous, 34, a refugee from the war in her native Syria, is forging a reputation as a producer of top-quality halloumi cheese.
She founded her company, Yorkshire Dama Cheese (Dama being short for Damascus) in 2014, less than two years after arriving in England with her husband, Raghid Sandouk, 53, and their three children. Just four months later, Razan won a bronze medal at the World Cheese Awards. The following year she took gold.
Now branded Yorkshire Squeaky Cheese, her halloumi went on sale earlier this year in 40 branches of Morrisons, one of Britain’s biggest supermarket chains. It was an instant hit and now Morrisons want to stock it in 275 stores nationwide.
Sainsbury’s and Waitrose, the supermarket giants, also want Razan’s halloumi on their shelves. No wonder, then, that Yorkshire Dama Cheese is looking into acquiring more equipment and bigger premises to meet the increasing clamour for its products.
For a young mother-of-three with zero experience of the food industry to go from complete novice to prize-winner in a matter of months would be impressive enough if Razan had lived in Yorkshire all her life.
That she started a business in a foreign country, with unfamiliar laws and customs, and is succeeding, makes her story inspirational.
Being foreign, from Syria, and a Muslim, has barely provoked comment, she said.
“There was a taxi driver — an Asian — who asked me if I was Muslim. I said, ‘Look at me, I’m wearing a headscarf, of course I’m Muslim.’ And he said he thought I might be a nun.
“Generally, I find people are not focused on how I look. They focus on the product. They see someone who is working hard, trying to do something and they want to support you. It’s very positive. I love the personal contact I have with the farmers, who accepted me straight away. I see that England and Syria are quite similar. They are both old civilizations that value history. I feel I am with people who understand me.”
Until six years ago, the family enjoyed a comfortable, middle-class lifestyle with a home on the outskirts of Damascus. Razan, who has a degree in microbiology, was studying pharmacology at Damascus University. Raghid, an electronics engineer, owned his own company supplying quality control equipment to the pharmaceutical industry.
When the conflict began in 2011, they tried to suppress their fears, even as it began to affect their lives more and more.
“We couldn’t visit our family. Each time Raghid went to work I didn’t know if he’d be back. His warehouse was smashed up by armed gangs. There were people being kidnapped just for dealing with British companies,” said Razan.
Then, on July 23, 2012, a car bomb exploded outside the building where Raghid had his office.
“He called me and said, ‘I’m alive but everything is destroyed.’ All he could see was dust,” said Razan. Three days later, the family were on a plane out of Syria.
“My father didn’t want us to leave. He said everything will be all right, and if it had just been Raghid and me, we would have stayed. It was harder for Raghid because he had a business he had built up over 15 years, with 15 employees. I asked him to leave. I could cope with no electricity. I could cope with limited water. I could cope with everything except lack of safety for my children. You can’t just sit there and wait to die.”
The family came to the UK because Raghid had a multiple-entry business visa and they had connections in the country. Raghid’s grandfather used to travel regularly to Huddersfield, a wool-producing town, to buy cloth for his textile shop, and Raghid’s brother had settled there 30 years ago.
Although the couple clung to the belief that their stay would be temporary, Raghid’s brother advised them to apply for asylum. Razan was granted temporary permission to stay after five weeks. For Raghid, it took almost two years.
“At first, we felt we were on holiday. It was summer, people were relaxed,” said Razan. But with the Syrian pound plummeting in value, their life savings were quickly depleted. They could not get jobs as their qualifications were not recognized. Nor could they study to re-qualify. Razan picked up some translation work, but it was irregular. She hated “signing on” — applying for welfare benefits.
Razan hit on her business idea one day after a fruitless search for halloumi that tasted as good as the cheese that is a staple of family breakfasts back home in Syria. The shops stocked what she describes as “tasteless” halloumi, imported from Cyprus, and made with powdered milk.
“That’s when it struck me: I would make cheese,” she said.
In her research she discovered that the British were the biggest consumers of halloumi in Europe. Her brother-in-law, who owned a string of fast-food businesses, gave her the use of the kitchen in a defunct chicken shop, where she spent a year experimenting with recipes. She found the key ingredient right under her nose.
“Yorkshire milk. The quality is excellent — much creamier with a high percentage of solids,” said Razan. “In Syria, the best halloumi is made in springtime when the grass is new and green. But here the climate is more consistent for good pasture, so the milk is more consistent in quality.”
She mentioned her idea to an adviser at the local Job Center, who referred her to the Enterprise Agency. She was assigned a mentor who steered her through researching the market and drawing up a business plan before applying for a start-up loan.
She received £2,500 to be repaid within two years. The loan was not enough to buy all the equipment she needed, but the ever-resourceful Raghid adapted an ice-cream maker so that it heated the milk instead of cooling it, and converted an insulated fish tank into a fridge.
They began by selling to local delis and cafes. Razan spent her last £500 on the fee for an exhibitor’s stall at the Harrogate Fine Food Show. It proved to be a wise move.
“People loved the cheese and we met our first distributor. He said: ‘This is what we need in Yorkshire,’ and we are still working with him.”
Four months after beginning production, they entered the World Cheese Awards, held in the huge exhibition center in London’s Olympia. It was an eye-opener.
“We knew nothing about it. There were 2,750 different cheeses on display, big blocks of Cheddar … and we arrived with just a few blocks of cheese. We looked very silly,” said Razan. Her initial reaction was to turn and go home. But Raghid said they might as well stay and just enjoy it.
To their amazement, they won the bronze medal. “We were jumping around, shouting. I phoned all my family. We were overjoyed.”
The next year, they entered again and won gold. “It proved the first time was not a fluke. We really did have a good product that people like,” said Razan.
The walls and every spare surface of the office above the factory floor are now covered in awards. For the Queen’s 90th birthday in 2016, they supplied cheese for the British embassy party in Vienna.
Razan and her halloumi have appeared on television and when he was prime minister, David Cameron nominated her as an ambassador for International Women’s Day in 2015.
Last year, Yorkshire Dama Cheese moved out of the disused chicken shop into their current premises on a small industrial estate. Princess Anne, the Queen’s daughter, came to open the new factory last year and stayed for lunch.
“She requested it, and she stayed almost two hours, much longer than her schedule,” said Raghid. “It was a proud day,” Razan said.
The 1,200 liters of milk collected daily from a local dairy farmer is turned into around 2,500 blocks of halloumi each week. The Yorkshire Squeaky Cheese brand came about because Cyprus was seeking Protected Designated Origin status for the halloumi name, a label granted by the EU to a small number of products. The name stuck.
“It works because the test of good halloumi is the squeak when you squeeze it, and also kids like it,” said Razan.
As well as five varieties of halloumi, they make labneh, also labelled “spreadable yogurt” for customers unfamiliar with the Middle Eastern name. The whey left over from making halloumi becomes ricotta cheese. Nothing is wasted and nothing is added, said Razan.
Weekends are spent at food fairs and farmers’ markets. Sales to restaurants, independent shops and online customers have “gone crazy” in the past six months.
They have now bought a house and the children — Angie, 9, Yara, 8, and Kareem, 6 — are happily settled in school. “They are Yorkshire kids now. They laugh at my accent,” said Razan.
Razan’s parents and siblings have followed her to Britain. Her father volunteers at the Buzz Project, running community beehives, where he is known by the nickname Mr. Honey.
Though it pains her to admit it, the prospect of returning to Damascus is receding. “I cannot close down because we have eight employees depending on us,” said Razan. “But I want my children to know where they came from and we will take them when it is safe.”
That’s not all they intend to take back to Syria.
“We aim to export our halloumi to Syria,” said Raghid. “With Yorkshire milk and Syrian know-how, we will make the UK the halloumi capital of the world.”


Where We Are Going Today: Kold Kombucha in Alkhobar

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Updated 28 June 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: Kold Kombucha in Alkhobar

  • Marked by a bold painted mural at the entrance, the hole-in-the-wall space receives a steady stream of curious visitors, notably young men who are fans of the Snapchat star

In the heart of historic northern Alkhobar, newly established Kold Kombucha is putting the spotlight on kombucha, a naturally fizzy fermented tea with roots in East Asia dating back over 2,000 years.

The compact, design-forward shop — opened this month by popular Saudi Snapchat personality Hammam Al-Mulhem — is the first of its kind in Saudi Arabia spotlighting kombucha, which is brewed on-site in large fermentation vessels over 11 days using a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast known as SCOBY.

Marked by a bold painted mural at the entrance, the hole-in-the-wall space receives a steady stream of curious visitors, notably young men who are fans of the Snapchat star.

Three core flavors rotate on tap. The beetroot is deep and earthy — slightly sour, complex — almost like a liquid snack. The apple cinnamon is my personal favorite: smooth and warming — pure autumn in a glass, while strawberry mint, bright and refreshing, hits just right on a blazing Eastern Province afternoon.

Each bottle goes for between SR23 ($6) to SR25. They also offer a chocolate chip dessert, and for those not quite ready to dive into the world of kombucha, there are coffees available too.

I stopped by straight from the airport — jet-lagged, dehydrated and craving something light but nourishing. Kold delivered.

Seating — like nearby parking spaces — is limited.

Kold Kombucha is open daily from 4 p.m. to midnight. Find them on Instagram at @kold.ksa.

 


Where We Are Going Today: Chii restaurant in Jeddah

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Updated 27 June 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: Chii restaurant in Jeddah

  • The birria fries and nachos are perfect for sharing and greasy in a satisfying way, though not for the faint of heart or diet-conscious

Located in Al-Naeem district in Jeddah, Chii restaurant brings a bold twist to casual Mexican dining with a Saudi edge. With its neon-lit signs and vibrant atmosphere, Chii draws you in for what promises to be a flavor-packed experience, and, for the most part, it delivers.

Visitors may start with the shrimp bites and guacamole. The shrimp are perfectly crisped and seasoned, and the guacamole is creamy with just the right citrusy tang, though a pinch more salt wouldn’t hurt.

The taco section is where Chii shines. The birria taco, featuring slow-cooked meat, mixed cheese, and their signature sauce, is a standout — rich, juicy, and indulgent. The chili smashed tacos echo similar flavors but pack more heat, perfect for spice lovers.

On the lighter side, the grilled chicken tacos are fresh but a bit underwhelming compared to the rest of the bold menu. For something more filling, the birria bowl is a hearty mix of rice, corn, beans, and all the fixings. Every bite felt thoughtfully layered, though the bowl can benefit from a bit more sauce to tie it all together.

The birria fries and nachos are perfect for sharing and greasy in a satisfying way, though not for the faint of heart or diet-conscious.

The chicken quesadillas are cheesy and comforting but do not stand out much. As for dessert, it changes daily, which keeps things interesting.

For more, check the location’s Instagram @chii.ksa.

 


Recipes for Success: Chef Eric Vidal talks patience, pasta, perfectionism 

Updated 27 June 2025
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Recipes for Success: Chef Eric Vidal talks patience, pasta, perfectionism 

DUBAI: Running six restaurants, a bar and a beach club might sound like a logistical nightmare, but for French chef Eric Vidal, it is just another day at Delano Dubai.  

As executive chef of the new luxury destination, Vidal oversees everything from in-room dining to curated tasting menus across venues including Blue Door, Gohan, Tutto Passa, and La Cantine Beach. 

Here, Vidal offers advice and a recipe for grilled seabass. 

When you were starting out, what was the most common mistake you made?  

I was absolutely determined to make every single element perfect, down to the tiniest garnish. If a microgreen was not angled just right or a sauce swirl looked a little off, I would start over. That obsessive attention to detail came from a genuine love for the craft, but it also meant I was constantly behind. During training, I was almost always the last to plate and serve. While others were already wiping down their stations, I was still fussing over aesthetics that, in hindsight, barely made a difference. 

Looking back, I realize that pursuit of perfection wasn’t the problem, it was the way I went about it. In a professional kitchen, you simply can’t afford to sacrifice speed for polish that only you notice. I have learned that excellence is not about obsessing over every detail, it’s about knowing which ones truly matter. Ultimately, a great plate is one that delights the diner and makes it to the (table) on time. 

Delano Dubai. (Supplied)

What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?  

Enjoy the process. Try not to treat dinner like a high-stakes performance. Take a breath. Cooking should be something that grounds you, not stresses you out. 

It also definitely helps to have a few basics in place, like a solid grasp of simple techniques, equipment that actually works with you (not against you), and good-quality ingredients that you’re excited to use. When you have those essentials sorted, you can approach each meal with a mix of care and curiosity, whether you’re following a recipe or freestyling from the fridge.  

What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?  

For me, it’s a close call between garlic and good-quality olive oil with a squeeze of fresh lemon. These are not just great ingredients on their own, but they form a trio that can transform even the simplest of dishes into something really special. 

Garlic is one of those essentials I cannot live without. If it is raw and fiery or slow-cooked until soft and sweet, it brings a depth of savory flavor that is hard to beat. It’s the backbone of so many cuisines and adds warmth and complexity that instantly makes a dish feel more complete. 

Good-quality olive oil is so much more than a cooking medium. The right bottle adds real character — fruity, sometimes peppery with a richness and silkiness that gives food a beautifully rounded finish. It also carries a personal significance for me. It brings back memories of the flavors I grew up with. And just a dash of fresh lemon juice can completely change a dish. It cuts through richness, lifting flavors, and adding that bit of brightness that makes everything taste fresher, lighter and more alive. 

When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?  

I try to approach the experience with an open mind rather than picking things apart. If something doesn’t quite suit my palate, I simply make a quiet mental note and I’m probably just not going to order it again. Cooking is a form of expression, and not every dish is meant to please everyone.  

What’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants? 

It tends to come down to the basics: attention to detail and solid training. It’s often the small things — an under-seasoned sauce, a lukewarm plate, or a misstep in communication between the kitchen and front of house — that can affect the whole experience. Most of these issues are not about talent, they are about consistency, care and making sure everyone on the team is properly supported and well-trained. When those foundations are in place, it really makes all the difference. 

What’s your favorite cuisine to order?  

I have a soft spot for the artistry and surprise of Japanese cuisine, but what I really savor when dining out is the chance to explore new culinary styles — whether it’s the bold flavors of street food, the elegance of fine dining, or the comfort of a cozy local spot. I love that feeling of trying a new flavor or technique for the first time — it keeps things exciting for me.  

What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home? 

A simple pasta dish. The combination of garlic sautéed in olive oil with a basic tomato sauce is incredibly quick to prepare and always satisfying. Alternatively, a no-cook option I often rely on is a classic French cheese and salad with crusty bread — minimal effort for a delicious and well-balanced light meal. 

What customer request most annoys you? 

I genuinely don’t find requests a hassle; I see them as an opportunity to really understand individual needs and come up with creative solutions. Flexibility and a bit of patience are crucial in making sure everyone has a great experience. 

What’s your favorite dish to cook? 

Veal cheek blanquette. It requires a few patient hours of simmering, but the process is incredibly rewarding. I really enjoy the mindful attention it demands, from the initial browning to the gentle simmering that fills the kitchen with a comforting aroma. 

What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?  

I find Indian cuisine the hardest. The art of balancing the blend of spices is not easy. It’s not just about knowing which spices to use, but also the quantities and the precise moment to add them during cooking. It is a delicate dance to make sure no single spice dominates the others.  

What are you like as a leader? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback? 

My approach is all about empowerment and trust. Of course, a structured and disciplined environment is important to maintain high standards, but I firmly believe that respect and genuine support are far more powerful motivators than fear or intimidation. I aim to create a team where everyone feels proud of what they bring to the table and confident enough to take initiative. They know they’ve got my full support, which gives them the freedom to grow, experiment and really shine in their roles. 

RECIPE 

Chef Eric’s Mediterranean grilled seabass with vierge sauce  

(Supplied)

Ingredients: 

1 whole Mediterranean seabass (1.2 Kg) 

Fleur de sel 

9 gr fennel seeds and herbs (tarragon, dill, thyme, rosemary) 

1 pc of lemon  

20 cl extra virgin olive oil 

Method: 

1. Clean and pat the fish dry (ask supplier for scaling/gutting). 

2. Brush the fish inside and out with olive oil. 

3. Score skin with cross marks on both sides. 

4. Stuff the belly with lemon slices and mixed herbs. 

5. Place the fish on a tray, drizzle with olive oil, herbs and fleur de sel. 

6. Bake it in a preheated oven at 180°C for 15-20 minutes. 

7. Rest the fish, tented with foil, for 5-10 minutes before serving. 

8. Fillets will be easy to remove after resting. 

9. Serve hot with sauce vierge. 

Note: Cooking time varies with fish size.  

Vierge sauce 

Ingredients:    

Tomatoes on vine – 150gr 

Basil leaves – 24gr 

Taggiasche olives – 50gr 

Lemon pulp diced – 50gr 

Olive oil extra virgin – 120grs 

Salt  

Pepper 

Method: 

Score tomato skin with a cross, blanch in boiling water for 20 seconds, deseed and peel. 

Sprinkle tomato petals with salt and drain on paper towel. 

Quarter the taggiasche olives. 

Dice the fresh basil leaves. 

Dice the lemon pulp evenly. 

Dice the salted tomato petals evenly. 

Combine all ingredients in a bowl with salt, pepper and extra virgin olive oil. 

Adjust seasoning. 

Serve at room temperature. 


Where We Are Going Today: ‘Wingstop’ 

Updated 25 June 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: ‘Wingstop’ 

If you’re a fan of bold flavors and American-style wings, Wingstop’s newly opened branch at Jeddah Park might just be your next go-to spot.

Located on Prince Mohammed bin Abdulaziz street, this popular American chain has finally landed in Jeddah after creating a buzz in Riyadh, and the crowds are proof of the excitement.

The menu offers what fans have come to love: 10 flavorful wing options, including lemon pepper, smoky hickory BBQ, spicy-sweet Korean Q, and the fiery atomic for those who can handle the heat, with choices of six, eight, or 12 classic wings per order.

They also have boneless wing options tossed in your flavor of choice. Their crispy tenders are juicy and well-seasoned, and if you’re in the mood for something different, their big flavor chicken burger is a solid choice with its crunchy tenders layered with slaw, pickles, and ranch served on a soft brioche bun.

Sides are more than just an addition here. The loaded fries are served with house-made ranch dip, which pairs perfectly with the wings.

To top it off, Wingstop offers milkshakes in a range of flavors, including Oreo, Lotus Biscoff, and salted caramel. 

For dessert, don’t miss the churros; choose your crumb (Oreo or Lotus) and sauce (chocolate or caramel) for a sweet finish.

Expect long queues, especially in the evening, and limited seating during peak hours.

Check @wingstopsaudi on Instagram for more details.


Review: A cinematic dining experience at Munchies in Safwa

Updated 25 June 2025
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Review: A cinematic dining experience at Munchies in Safwa

  • With dim lighting, cozy seating, and attention to music and mood, the ambiance supports the food without overshadowing it
  • Menu offers variety, with more than 50 items ranging from Italian comfort dishes to bistro classics

SAFWA: Munchies in Safwa city, Qatif governorate, may not catch your eye at first. There are no flashy signs or strong online presence to draw you in. But those who visit will find a unique dining experience.

Ahmed Al-Quraish opened the restaurant in 2023. It operates on a reservation basis and relies mostly on word of mouth.

The low-key approach continues inside, where the interior feels more like a carefully designed set than a typical restaurant.

With dim lighting, cozy seating, and attention to music and mood, the ambiance supports the food without overshadowing it.

The menu offers variety, with more than 50 items ranging from Italian comfort dishes to bistro classics.

A recent visit started with a crispy Caesar salad, generous in size and flavor, followed by hot arancini with a molten center. Both had a good balance of texture and temperature.

The main dishes were well prepared. The wagyu steak arrived cooked as requested, served with creamy mashed potatoes. It was tender, well seasoned and satisfying.

The pasta was rich and silky with a proper bite, and the fish and chips were golden and crisp.

The dessert menu focuses on enjoyable flavors. The chocolate cake was fudgy, the choux pastries flavorful, and the vibrancy and refreshing nature of the passion fruit cake stood out.

Munchies occasionally offers live music or themed events, but at its core are thoughtful food and atmospheric surroundings, creating a welcoming atmosphere.

Munchies is open from 3:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m., Monday through Saturday. This spot delivers consistent quality and ambiance.

The overall experience is worth making a reservation for. Check their Instagram, @munchiesksa, for more details.