Joanna Barakat gives workshops on Palestinian embroidery
She talks about the significance and history of the craft
Updated 20 September 2018
Mo Gannon
DUBAI: I just finished cross-stitching my first Gaza cypress tree motif, begun around the kitchen table of the UAE-based artist Joanna Barakat, who gives workshops on Palestinian embroidery, or tatreez. Next up: Motifs from Hebron, Ramallah and Jaffa.
Until I took her class, which she’ll be teaching at Tashkeel in Dubai next weekend, I hadn’t paid much attention to the stitches that adorn the region’s fabrics. Now, I read them like signposts for clues as to where they’re from.
Barakat, who was born in Jerusalem, begins with a talk on the history of tatreez, showing us photos from different regions before 1948 and passing around examples of her grandmother’s work.
We learn how embroidery was more elaborate for weddings, how women incorporated their environment in their work — Jaffa, for instance, has an orange motif — and how it reflected their status. Bedouin women stitched a blue hem on their dresses, adding red motifs if they remarried. “Each tribe had its own style and its own way of dressing to express their identity,” Barakat says.
The Nakba in 1948 almost killed off the tradition, as women lost access to the region’s textile factories. “Everybody was traumatized,” she says. “You had a good decade there where almost nothing came out.”
But their resilience resurfaced in their craft, earning them a living in refugee camps. “It became a symbol of resistance and empowerment.”
In that way, Barakat uses embroidery in her paintings: in one self-portrait, a needle punctures her chest on the canvas, “trying to stitch my own Palestinian identity into me,” she explains.
Her workshop may have stitched some of that into me as well. After giving us our own cross-stitch kits, with Aida fabric, green threads and cypress tree patterns, she shows us how to stitch, correcting us patiently as we go. As they might say in crochet class, I’m hooked.
Joanna Barakat’s workshops on Palestinian embroidery are at Tashkeel in Dubai on Sept. 29 and Dec. 8 for $73, from 10 a.m.-3 p.m. with a one-hour break, lunch included. Email [email protected] for more information.
Ayman Al-Zubaidi: Bringing authentic Saudi flavors to London’s culinary scene
The founder of London’s Hijazi Corner was hopeless in the kitchen, but his move abroad sparked a desire to recreate the cuisine of his homeland
Updated 15 November 2024
Scott Campbell
LONDON: Ayman Al-Zubaidi — the acclaimed chef behind Hijazi Corner, London’s first Saudi Arabian restaurant — has cooked for dignitaries, diplomats, celebrities and even the Kingdom’s royal family. But his most discerning critics were waiting for him much closer to home.
In 2021, after several years living in London, Al-Zubaidi came home to Jeddah. But instead of the football shirt his family had pictured him wearing after his UK studies in sports science, he returned in chef whites. It was a transformation that no one saw coming — least of all him.
Growing up in Jeddah’s Al-Sabeel district with his sister and three brothers, Al-Zubaidi could barely boil his own water. The kitchen was strictly his mother’s territory, and his late-night culinary ventures didn’t go far beyond packets of instant noodles. But now, the tables had turned, and his mother was seated as his guest.
Hijazi Corner is London’s first Saudi Arabian restaurant. (Supplied)
“When I first moved to the UK, I was clueless in the kitchen, so I called her for help,” Al-Zubaidi tells Arab News from his restaurant in London’s de facto Arab district of Edgware Road. It was her loving mentorship that laid the foundations for his culinary journey, shaping his path to becoming one of London’s most distinctive chefs.
“When any chef starts to speak about food, they talk about their mum. Her chicken kabsa is a bit oily, a bit shiny and looks amazing — even just talking about it now I become hungry,” Al-Zubaidi says. “But even if I had the same ingredients and made it the same way, hers would always taste better.”
Building on family recipes honed over decades by his ancestors in Yemen, Al Zubaidi’s Hijazi Corner is the only place in the UK capital where Saudis can find a true taste of home.
Lined with thick carpets and ornate window paneling evoking the buildings of Jeddah’s Al-Balad historical district, its menu is full of comforting favorites drawn from across the Kingdom’s western coastal region — chicken seelag, slow-roasted lamb haneeth and delicate, flaky samboosek.
Al-Zubaidi with Saudi Ambassador to the UK Prince Khalid and the latter's wife. (Supplied)
“From the richest person to the poorest person in Saudi Arabia, we eat the same food,” he says. “When we celebrate, when we grieve, when we are happy or sad, we get masoub (banana pudding) or motabbaq (thin layers of pastry stuffed with meat).”
Al-Zubaidi’s path to the kitchen was anything but conventional. As a teenager eager to learn English, he set his sights on the UK, drawn by what he called “a love for the accent,” and made the leap in 2017. After completing his language course, he switched tracks to study sports. But somewhere between lectures and life abroad, homesickness hit in the form of a craving for the familiar flavors of Arabia.
“In London, you can find plenty of Turkish, Kurdish, Indian, even Malaysian options — but nothing from Saudi,” he explains. “So I decided to make it myself.” He began recreating the comforting dishes of home in his small Clapham flat, selling them cash-in-hand to fellow Saudis in search of an authentic taste of the Kingdom.
But the secret didn’t stay a secret for long. Soon, his passion found a new platform — Snapchat.
Al-Zubaidi shared short videos of his cooking process, garnishing each clip with personal moments and mouth-watering close-ups of Saudi dishes. His humble videos quickly gained a loyal fanbase, and orders poured in from every corner of the city — particularly as COVID took hold in the early months of 2020.
“People from the Saudi embassy added me, people from Aramco working in London added me. Saudis living here, working here, growing up here — plus lots of foreign people who had been to my country and tried this food before.”
What started as a side hustle quickly evolved into a pop-up, and by 2023, into a brick-and-mortar restaurant where Londoners could finally experience the authentic flavors of Saudi Arabia.
During the pop-up stage, Al-Zubaidi’s Snapchat followers became more than fans; they became enablers of his culinary vision, bringing a piece of Saudi Arabia to his London kitchen. Whenever one of his followers planned a trip from Saudi to the UK, they’d reach out, asking if he needed any hard-to-find ingredients.
Al-Zubaidi’s requests were simple but essential — fragrant spices, fresh dill, and most importantly, the special pastry sheets that he just couldn’t source in London.
“I’d say ‘I need the real pastry for samosa.’ And they’d bring it for me,” he says.
The enthusiasm was mutual. His followers were just as eager to bring these reminders of home, knowing he’d transform them into the dishes they missed.
Yet not everyone was as supportive. As he juggled his studies and the pop-up, criticism began to surface, especially from former friends back home.
“They mocked me,” he recalls. “They’d say things like, ‘You went to the UK to study, and now you’re just selling food?’”
Influencers he approached for social-media support brushed him off with dismissive remarks. But Al-Zubaidi was undeterred, finding new friends and switching his studies from sport to cooking. With a network of loyal clients and the backing of a few new investors he had met along the way, he began seriously considering a restaurant.
One wealthy friend, who had seen the young chef’s determination, urged him to take the plunge. After months of hard work studying knife skills, mastering Saudi dishes, and learning the restaurant business inside out, Al-Zubaidi took the leap.
Two years after opening its doors, Hijazi Corner is a definite success, becoming one of London’s top-rated Middle Eastern eateries. It’s perpetually packed with diners, and has become a go-to spot for celebrities, diplomats, and dignitaries from the Arab world and beyond, all seeking an authentic taste of Saudi Arabia.
After showcasing Saudi cuisine at several festivals and events, on National Day this September, Al-Zubaidi received a special honor — an invitation to the Kingdom’s embassy in London.
The recognition came after HRH Prince Khalid Bin Bandar Al-Saud, Saudi Arabia’s ambassador to the UK, visited Hijazi Corner and was so impressed that he mentioned it by name in his National Day speech. Al-Zubaidi, overcome with pride, shed tears of joy.
“I am proud of what I’ve achieved, but I haven’t finished yet,” he says. “This is just the beginning—there’s so much more of Saudi culture I want to share with the world.”
Highlights from the winning entries in the Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum International Photography Award
Updated 15 November 2024
Arab News
DUBAI: Here are three highlights from the winning entries in this year’s Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum International Photography Award.
Youmn Mohammed Almanla
The Saudi photographer claimed second place in the ‘Color’ category of this year’s HIPA awards for this stunning image of horse riders firing rifles against a twilight sky — an example of the ancient Moroccan equestrian art known as ‘tbourida,’ which is included on UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage. It is, Almanla said in his statement, “a breathtaking display of skill, bravery, and the untamed spirit of the desert.”
Liping Cao
The Chinese photographer picked up the Grand Prize at this year’s awards (staged under the theme ‘Sustainability’) for this dramatic black-and-white shot he named “Quiet Power.” It shows an Australian wind farm. “The dry riverbed below the turbines adds depth, while serving as a reminder of the importance of sustainable practices,” a statement from HIPA reads.
Fatma Alzahra Shbair
The Palestinian photographer won first prize in the “Portfolio” category for a collection of scenes from the Gaza Strip taken over the months since Israel launched its assault on the enclave in October 2023. “Through telling the stories of others, the storyteller realized they were also sharing their own — an intertwined account of survival and collective suffering,” a HIPA statement reads.
Saudi digital artist Khaled Makshoush: ‘I chase an atmosphere’
Makshoush is one of the participants in the newly launched Diriyah Arts Futures
Updated 14 November 2024
Hams Saleh
DUBAI: Saudi Arabia’s Diriyah is now nurturing the Kingdom’s creative future. The UNESCO World Heritage site recently launched Diriyah Art Futures (DAF), an initiative aimed at empowering the next generation of Saudi digital artists.
Among the select few to join DAF’s Emerging New Media Artists program is Saudi pixel artist Khaled Makshoush, who is now part of a project designed to establish Riyadh as a global capital of new media art.
Cranes, 2024, Pixel Art. (Supplied)
The program, designed in collaboration with France’s Le Fresnoy Studio National des Arts Contemporains, provides artists like Makshoush with access to advanced equipment, production budgets, and mentorship from international digital art experts.
Reflecting on this opportunity, Makshoush told Arab News how meaningful it feels to exhibit and evolve his pixel art within his homeland.
“When I started creating digital art, especially pixel art, I never thought I would get an opportunity like this, with such a program and in my own city,” he said. “I am really grateful for that and to get the chance to actually put my pixel art out there.”
Among the select few to join DAF’s Emerging New Media Artists program is Saudi pixel artist Khaled Makshoush, who is now part of a project designed to establish Riyadh as a global capital of new media art. (Supplied)
Makshoush’s journey into pixel art began in 2015, when he and a friend explored the idea of creating video games. While his friend handled the programming, Makshoush took on the artistic side, initially choosing pixel art for its perceived simplicity.
Over time, that initial foray transformed into a deeper passion. By 2016, he was dedicating himself fully to the medium, honing his skills through a disciplined daily painting practice, which pushed him to continually explore new ideas and techniques.
“This forced me to ask myself, ‘What do I want to draw? What do I want to paint? And that, I think, was a big question. It kind of led me into a journey of discovering myself,” he said.
Today, Makshoush’s art often centers around the landscapes and cityscapes of Riyadh.
Petrochemical, 2020, Pixel Art. (Supplied)
“I focus on feeling the space. Like, how and why does it make me feel a certain way? When I’m outside and I see something interesting, I try to explore it,” he said.
For Makshoush, the power of pixel art lies in its ability to capture and convey a distinct impression — a quality that he strives to evoke in each piece he creates.
“I chase an atmosphere,” he explained. “My work represents my state of mind during the time that I create (an artwork).”
His personal connection to, and love for, Riyadh is evident in his work, which manages to be both contemporary, but somehow nostalgic at the same time, perhaps because of his retro graphics style.
Through the DAF program, Makshoush hopes to push his skills further by experimenting with larger scales as well as with new technologies.
Saturday Morning, 2023, Pixel Art. (Supplied)
The mentorship component of the program, he said, is particularly exciting for him, as it offers a chance to explore intersections between pixel art and other digital forms. He would love to explore techniques like programming or ways to exhibit his work interactively. He envisions his art evolving into installations that blend the virtual and physical, bridging the gap between the online world, where digital art typically lives, and tangible exhibitions.
“The idea of moving pixel art from the screen to the physical space is intriguing — finding a balance where it retains its digital essence while existing outside the internet,” he said.
Pixel art, so heavily linked to vintage video games from “Space Invaders” and “Pac-Man” to “Super Mario Bros,” has evolved significantly in recent years, Makshoush believes. He noted that, especially since the early 2010s, social media has helped push pixel art into new realms, with artists worldwide reimagining it and taking it beyond its nostalgic associations. He described a movement primarily driven by Japanese and Western artists, characterized by serene, almost cinematic scenes that evoke a quiet beauty.
“It’s about creating an atmosphere rather than reliving the nostalgia of video games,” he said.
With his newfound access to resources and mentors, Makshoush is eager to contribute to Saudi Arabia’s burgeoning digital art scene, which he sees as increasingly dynamic and influential.
“We have a lot of digital artists now in Saudi Arabia and it is only becoming bigger and bigger,” he said. “I hope my work can inspire others as I was once inspired.”
Recipes for Success: Chef Ranveer Brar offers advice and a delicious saag meat recipe
Updated 14 November 2024
Shyama Krishna Kumar
DUBAI: Celebrity chef, painter and actor Ranveer Brar was born in Lucknow, northern India, and fell in love with cooking at a very young age. While accompanying his grandfather to the local gurudwara (Sikh place of worship), he remembers sneaking into the community kitchen — known as a langar — excited by all the activity there.
“A few years later, when I was a pre-teen, the priest called me aside and asked me to prepare the rice dish, as his wife was unwell that day. I had no list of ingredients, nor the recipe, but, recalling what I’d observed, I prepared the dish and it turned out quite well. That was my first experience of instant gratification with food,” Brar tells Arab News. “After my debut at the gurudwara, my next attempt at cooking was when my mother fell ill and I made rajma — again, without any recipe, I just made it from my memory of watching my mother make it. I overheard my dad complimenting the attempt and, at that moment, I realized that food was my calling.”
Brar opened his first restaurant in the Gulf in Dubai late last year.
Brar opened his first restaurant in the Gulf in Dubai late last year. (Supplied)
“Kashkan means ‘From Kashmir to Kanyakumari,’” he says. “The UAE, and Dubai in particular, seemed like the perfect venue because it is a melting pot of both cultures and cuisines, so what better place to celebrate Kashkan’s melange of flavours?”
Here, Brar discusses his favorite ingredient, the toughest dish to perfect, and advice for amateurs.
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
Trying to do too much and over-express myself. As a result, I was losing myself — the idea I was trying to express was getting lost. With age I understood that not everything one knows needs to be expressed in a single dish. Wisdom lies in choosing the right moment for the right expression.
What’s your top tip for amateurs?
Stick to the basics. If you get the fundamentals right, you can rarely go wrong with cooking. They can then become the basis for innovation as one evolves.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
That would be coriander for me, adding a lot of freshness. From the stalks to the leaves, every element of the herb is fascinating. Also olive oil, which adds richness.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
I don’t really. I view food as food. The reason I am who I am is because food has always made me happy, so I don’t want to take that role away from food in my life. When eating out, I try to feel, understand and appreciate the intent of the person who’s cooking. But when it’s my cooking, I tend to be quite harsh and critical of myself, because every time you cook, it’s an opportunity to improve yourself.
What’s your favorite cuisine?
It’s usually the local food of the place I am travelling to. Also, the simpler the restaurant, the more likely I am to end up there. I believe the essence of good food is its simplicity. What better than street food and age-old places to understand the true culture and cuisine of any place?
(Supplied)
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
Has to be khichdi. It’s the perfect one-pot meal that has everything your appetite needs. Add in vegetables and you get a good proportion of all nutrients on your plate. And don’t forget the ghee!
What customer request most annoys you?
Strangely, it’s when they ask for salt! Salt is such an important element of any dish. A little too much salt can subdue other flavors and too little can fail to elevate them. I feel it’s the chef’s judgment of the amount of salt that allows us to experience the dish as intended. So when customers ask for salt it disappoints me, because the true nature of the dish might get spoiled.
What’s your favorite dish to cook and why?
My special chicken curry. Be it family or friends, I always get asked for that. It’s now a signature dish at Kashkan too.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
Biryani is something I would love to keep perfecting. You have to cook many layers of rice at the same time, giving it minimum water, minimum heat over a long period of time, with every grain of rice being the same, every layer of flavor equally coating the rice. I think biryani is the perfect test for anyone who is a student of Salt-Fat-Acid-Heat.
As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laid back?
I used to be a disciplinarian believing that cooking was all about control; the heat, environment, ingredients and cooking itself. Now I’m more relaxed; it’s more collaborative, it’s more about letting the team express themselves and my role is to guide them through that expression.
RECIPE: SAAG MEAT
(Supplied)
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 35-40 minutes
Serves 2-4
INGREDIENTS:
For the marination:
4 medium Onions, sliced
¼ cup fresh Fenugreek leaves
¾ cup Curd, beaten
Salt to taste
½ tsp Turmeric powder
½ tsp Degi red chili powder
½ tsp Coriander powder
1 kg Mutton (with bones)
½ tbsp Ginger Garlic paste
For the mutton:
3-4 tbsp Oil
3 Bay leaf
2 Black cardamom
2 Cloves
¼ tsp Cumin seeds
Marinated Mutton
Salt to taste
few fresh Fenugreek leaves
Little water
For the saag meat:
1 tbsp Oil
1 tbsp Ghee
1 inch Ginger (peeled & chopped)
4-5 Garlic cloves, chopped
2 medium Onions, chopped
2-3 Green chillies
2 Dry red chillies
2-3 medium bunch fresh Spinach leaves, chopped
¼ cup Amaranth (Bathua)
Salt to taste
Little water
1 tbsp Butter, cubed
Pressure Cooked Mutton
½ tbsp unsalted Butter or white butter, cubed (optional)
½ tsp Mustard oil
For garnish:
Coriander sprig
INSTRUCTIONS
For marination:
In a bowl, add onions, fresh fenugreek leaves, curd, salt to taste, turmeric powder, deg red chili powder, coriander powder, mutton, ginger garlic paste and mix it well.
Keep it aside for further use.
For the mutton:
In a pressure cooker, add oil, once it's hot, add bay leaf, black cardamom, cloves, cumin seeds and let it splutter.
Add marinated mutton and saute it for 6-7 minutes. Add salt to taste and cook for a while.
Add a few fenugreek leaves and mix well. Add water, close the lid and cook it for 5-6 whistles or until the mutton is tender.
Keep it aside for further use.
For the saag meat:
In a kadai (Indian wok), add oil, ghee, once it's hot, ginger, garlic, onion, green chillies and saute for a minute.
Add dry red chillies and saute well. Add spinach, amaranth leaves, salt to taste, water and saute well.
Add butter, close the lid and cook it for 3-4 minutes.
Add cooked mutton and let it simmer for a while.
To finish, add unsalted butter or white butter, mustard oil and stir it well.
Transfer it to a serving dish and garnish it with coriander sprig.
Best and worst: Nour Hassan discusses memorable style moments, her take on trends
Updated 14 November 2024
Hams Saleh
DUBAI: The Saudi-Egyptian podcast host and influencer shares memorable style moments, her take on trends, and the best and worst advice she ever received.
Best TV show or film you’ve ever seen?
“Gossip Girl” remains an iconic show for both fashion and pop culture. One of my favorite movies is “Pride and Prejudice” starring Keira Knightley, possibly since this is also one of my favorite books. And I have to watch “Love, Actually” at least once a year around December.
Worst TV show/film you’ve ever seen?
I don’t like anything dark or dreary. I prefer shows and movies that inspire and uplift because I think there is enough darkness in the world.
Nour Hassan is a Saudi-Egyptian podcast host and influencer. (Supplied)
Best personal style moment so far?
I would definitely have to say my custom couture Jean Pierre Khoury wedding dress. It was a timeless piece. Another style moment I cherish is wearing Marmar Halim to El Gouna Film Festival.
Worst personal style moment?
Overall my style has been quite consistent and identifiable. I wouldn’t say I have a worst, necessarily, but any time I opt for a trend, it does not age well. This might be too soon, but I cannot stand those flower hair clips anymore. I also rarely wear yellow or pink. But I change my mind often, as a Libra, so you might catch me in a full yellow look after saying this.
Pearls. They’re such an underrated accessory. They can really help achieve a timeless look — something from the 1920s and ’30s when fashion was more feminine and definitely more demure.
Worst accessory for a little black dress?
Too much color. Own the black cat moment, make it bold. The black dress is a statement. It exudes confidence and power, so keep it simple and classic.
Best fashion trend of 2024?
The Fall/ Winter color palette is everything. Chocolate brown, deep burgundy, taupes and nudes. These are the colors I've always loved the most. As an Arab woman with Egyptian Pharaonic features, I always find the warmth brings out all the best aspects of my complexion. Cool tones like navy are not my go-to, but thankfully I think we’re over that age-old rule of not pairing navy with black. Fashion is becoming more free and I am here for it.
Ballerinas — ballet shoes — are something I cannot get myself to return to. I used to love them — I lived in them in the early 2000s — but something about them makes the entire outfit look naïve, and I don’t like that. It’s not a look I’d go back to, although Miu Miu has tempted me many times.
Best advice you’ve ever been given?
Never compare yourself to anyone. I think that’s almost impossible in the age of social media, but if you start the game of comparison it will never end. Focus on yourself and your work. That’s the only way to stay unique and authentic in the contemporary landscape.
Asking for too much advice is usually a problem. Ultimately, you need to be able to make calls for yourself.
Best book you’ve ever read?
“The Untethered Soul” by Michael Singer is a book that can change your life — but only if you’re ready to grasp the sobering message that you are, in fact, in control of your life and your circumstances. It’s a scary thought and you have to be ready to take accountability for your life. For non-fiction it is, and always will be, the “Harry Potter” books.
Worst book you’ve ever read?
A mentor once told me that a book finds you when you’re ready for it. I don’t think you can go wrong with reading. There is always something to learn. Even if you hated the book then that’s a lesson on what you do not enjoy.
Pilates or a good long walk will elevate just about any aspect of your day, especially the latter. Sometimes, if you do not have the energy for an intense workout, it’s best to listen and not force it. Just go for 15 mins — do something to move the body and it will help free your mind.
Worst thing to do when you’re feeling good?
Be anywhere but in the now.
Best holiday destination?
Rome. Always. It’s a city that allows you to dream big — it kind of reminds me of certain parts of Cairo. It shows you what human beings are capable of and how vast and expansive civilization really is.
I’m not a camping girl, so anything like that, or somewhere with an arid climate, is not for me.
Best subject at school?
English. I got an award for the highest score in the Middle East during my IB Diploma. I’m a writer first and foremost, so I loved reading prose, analyzing poems and writing short stories. Art was equally a favorite. Both encompass the majority of my interests and passions.
Worst subject at school?
I was a major nerd so I didn’t really have a worst subject. I aced them all, like it or not. If I had to pick one perhaps it would be physics. I had a love-hate relationship with this subject.
Best thing to do to ensure you have a productive day?
Wake up before the sun. The days I wake up early are completely different to the days when I do not. I think deep down inside we all know this is the ultimate life hack, but potentially the most difficult one to implement because it requires uprooting your entire routine. I wake up at 5 a.m. at least once a week to reset and prepare for the week.
Worst thing to do when you’re trying to have a productive day?
Open social media. You’ll be in the vortex for hours.
