In Iraq, an ancient board game is making a comeback

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Iraqi artist Hoshmand Mofaq and British archaeologist Ashley Barlow (R) play an ancient board game that dates back to nearly 5,000 years ago. (AFP)
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Iraqi artist Hoshmand Mofaq sits over an ancient board game, known as the Royal Game of Ur, in the northern Iraqi city of Raniey. (AFP)
Updated 26 November 2018
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In Iraq, an ancient board game is making a comeback

  • Originating nearly 5,000 years ago in what would become Iraq, the Royal Game of Ur mysteriously died out
  • It was only in 1922 that the board game came to light

RANIYE, Iraq: After rolling pyramid-shaped dice, Iraqi Kurdish artisan Hoshmand Muwafaq shifted his pebble around an ornate board, his handmade recreation of one of the Middle East’s oldest and most popular games.
Originating nearly 5,000 years ago in what would become Iraq, the Royal Game of Ur mysteriously died out — until Muwafaq resurrected it by making his own decorated wooden board.
“It is a nice feeling when you rebuild and recreate a game which is not played by people anymore, and you try to show your generation and your people what we used to have before,” he told AFP.
“So you introduce the board again to the people. It’s just really something, somehow amazing.”
It was only in 1922 that the board game came to light.
A board — a kind of draughtboard in an elongated ‘H’ shape — together with its pieces and dice, were found during archaeological excavations at the royal cemetery in the ancient Sumerian city of Ur, known now as Tal Al-Muqayyar, in southern Iraq.
Taken to the British Museum for closer study, it took more than five decades until experts managed to match up and translate a set of rules carved into a piece of clay with the board game.
It became known as the Royal Game of Ur.
Two players have seven circular pieces each, which they must move in a loop across the beautifully carved wooden board.
If a player lands his piece on a square already occupied by his rival, he can knock off the original piece and his rival must start again.
Some of the 20 variously inlaid square places on the board offer players a refuge from being knocked off, or allow for a second roll of the unusual, pyramid-shaped dice.
Despite its simple rules, it makes for ferocious competition.
“It’s not just a game of luck, there’s strategy,” said Irving Finkel, the British Museum curator who worked to decipher the game’s rules.
Not only had they discovered the game’s playing instructions, he said in a video published last year by the museum, but also that it could be played for more than just fun, with some people betting for drink and women.

Superstitious players in ancient Mesopotamia thought the outcome of each Royal Game was directed by the gods, or had an impact on their future.
Finkel said the board predated backgammon, a similar and extremely popular game now played across the Middle East.
“Before chess and before backgammon came into the world, everybody played this game,” Finkel said.
But it has largely been forgotten by modern-day Iraqis.

To revive the game’s prehistoric popularity, British archaeologist Ashley Barlow asked Muwafaq to recreate a board based on the dimensions and design of the original.
The aim is to create the first Ur game board “produced in Iraq for millennia,” said Barlow, who lectures at the University of Raparin in the town of Raniye, 400 kilometers (250 miles) north of Baghdad.
Although it was invented locally, the game seems to have reached communities hundreds of kilometers away, even as far as India.
“The board itself, with its Afghan Lapis lazuli and Pakistani carnelian (gemstones), is testament to a globalized world connected by traders, merchants and craftsmen,” Barlow told AFP.
By reviving the game back in its birthplace, he hopes Iraqis can move past recent decades of violence to build an identity based on a shared ancient past.
“We want to reintroduce and re-educate people in their Mesopotamian history, something they can be really proud of — something that unites people rather than divides people,” he said.

Barlow and his team of volunteers are on a mission to bring back the spirit of Mesopotamia by spreading the game — first in the north, and then hopefully to Baghdad and Mosul.
Their first stop is the local park.
There, mainly older men play more mainstream games like checkers and backgammon — but can the Royal Game of Ur make a comeback?
“Yes!” says Mam Rasool, one of the elderly men there.
“I would play if there is someone to play the game with, like they (the Mesopotamians) did.”
He picked up a piece to move it across the intricate board.
“It’s 5,000 years old, but to us it’s new,” said Rasool.


‘Manzar’ exhibition in Qatar puts spotlight on Pakistani art and architecture through the ages 

Updated 1 min 10 sec ago
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‘Manzar’ exhibition in Qatar puts spotlight on Pakistani art and architecture through the ages 

  • Exhibition features more than 200 paintings, videos, sculptures and installations from the 1940s to the present 
  • Exhibition will run at the National Museum of Qatar until Jan. 31, 2025

DOHA: A three-month art and architecture exhibition in Doha featuring the works of renowned Pakistanis from the 1940s to the present highlights the South Asian country’s diverse art scene and brings the evolution of art and architecture in the region to a global audience. 

Titled “Manzar,” which can be translated from Urdu to mean scene, view, landscape or perspective, the exhibition includes more than 200 paintings, drawings, photographs, videos, sculptures, installations, tapestries and miniatures from celebrated Pakistani artists. It has been organized by an Art Mill Museum team and will run at the National Museum of Qatar until Jan. 31, 2025. 

Pakistani Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif, Qatar’s Emir Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad Al-Thani and his sister, Sheikha Al Mayassa Al-Thani, inaugurated the exhibition in Doha last week. 

“Pakistan’s art scene is less well known in the world compared to other art scenes and for us art historians it is absolutely fascinating to be able to share it with the world,” Caroline Hancock, senior curator of modern and contemporary art at the Art Mill Museum, told Arab News.

“We wanted to recount an expansive notion of this place, not limited by drawn and imposed borders, but true to the porosity and transnational interconnections of cultural expressions (in Pakistan).”

‘Flowers: Gardens of Paradise’ (2021) by Hamra Abbas at the ‘Manzar’ exhibition at Qatar Museums in Doha, Qatar. (Courtesy of Kuzey Kaya Buzlu)

Zarmeene Shah, director of graduate studies at the Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture in Karachi, the co-curator for Manzar, described the exhibition as “exceptionally significant.” 

“Because we never see such a body of noteworthy work come together in a single space, as most of these artworks live in private collections, inaccessible to the public, which is why Manzar offers an incomparable opportunity for audiences to engage with these masterpieces, and to explore how art and architecture have responded to, and reshaped, the nation’s social and political narratives,” Shah told Arab News. 

“Our aim is to start a conversation and not provide a definitive showcase.”

The exhibition, designed by eminent Pakistani architect Raza Ali Dada, integrates architecture and art to chart the thought processes, resistance struggles and achievements of the artistic and architectural community of the South Asian country. 

The exhibition runs thematically and opens with works by pioneering artists such as Abdur Rahman Chughtai and Zainul Abedin, who produced stellar works of art during British colonial rule from 1858-1947 and continued after Pakistan was born as a separate nation out of united India. 

A video installation titled ‘Disruption as Rapture’ by Shahzia Sikander (2016), displayed at the ‘Manzar’ exhibition at the National Museum of Qatar in Doha. (Kuzey Kaya Buzlu)

Indeed, the partition of 1947 is a significant theme for many Pakistani artists at the exhibition, including Anna Molka Ahmed, Zarina and Bani Abidi. The exhibition also features the aesthetic experiments of artists such as Shakir Ali, Zubeida Agha, Murtaja Baseer and Sadequain, whose deeply personal modes of expression are rooted in the vibrant urban centers of Karachi, Lahore, Dhaka, and the twin cities of Rawalpindi and Islamabad, which embody diverse artistic responses to historical and cultural shifts in the region.

Zahoor Ul-Akhlaq, Imran Mir and Rasheed Araeen — known for their multidisciplinary approaches, involvement in educational initiatives, and theoretical writings challenging Western art history and traditions at home and internationally — are also featured, as are influential figures of different generations such as Salima Hashmi, Quddus Mirza, Lala Rukh, Aisha Khalid and Durriya Kazi.

Important diaspora artists whose work is part of the exhibition include Naiza Khan in London, Ruby Chishti, Huma Bhabha, Iftikhar and Elizabeth Dadi and Salman Toor in New York, Bani Abidi in Berlin, Basir Mahmood in Amsterdam, Seher Shah in Barcelona and Khadim Ali in Sydney.

The exhibition also sheds light on contributions by foreign architects who reshaped Pakistan’s landscape and articulated the ambitions of its institutions through landmark projects. These include French artist Michel Ecochard, who designed the first university in the southern city of Karachi, and Greek artist Konstantínos Doxiadis, the lead architect who planned Pakistan’s capital Islamabad. 

Manzar also explores Pakistan’s engagement with the debate on regionalism in architecture through the works of influential architects such as Nayyar Ali Dada and Kamil Khan Mumtaz from Lahore, alongside Yasmeen Lari, Habib Fida Ali, and Arif Hasan from Karachi. 

The exhibition extends to the courtyard of the Palace of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Thani with a range of outdoor and indoor installations, as well as a film and video program. Renowned architect Yasmeen Lari, who works in the intersection of architecture and social justice, has exhibited bamboo shelters designed as emergency open-source housing for flood victims, in collaboration with the Heritage Foundation of Pakistan.

Additionally, the art collective Karachi LaJamia is exhibiting a project addressing the environmental crisis in the province of Sindh. Many of these contemporary projects emphasize the themes of sustainability and ecology, reflecting a growing urgency to address environmental issues through art and architecture.

“Manzar is an exhibition that truly reflects how everyone from the discourse of art and architecture seem in constant conversation, in dialogue about the environment, either the political environment or the ecological environment,” Karachi-based architect Marvi Mazhar said during a panel discussion, saying Manzar had brought into the spotlight the political and ecological changes the region has undergone through the decades. 

“We have always faced heartbreaks, be it the partition, or the formation of East Pakistan (present day Bangladesh) or other movements such as the politics of land and water. Yet historically we collectively ride the tide, through forging diverse practices and sensitivity to their connection to the wider history of modern and contemporary art.”


Ayman Al-Zubaidi: Bringing authentic Saudi flavors to London’s culinary scene

Updated 15 November 2024
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Ayman Al-Zubaidi: Bringing authentic Saudi flavors to London’s culinary scene

  • The founder of London’s Hijazi Corner was hopeless in the kitchen, but his move abroad sparked a desire to recreate the cuisine of his homeland 

LONDON: Ayman Al-Zubaidi — the acclaimed chef behind Hijazi Corner, London’s first Saudi Arabian restaurant — has cooked for dignitaries, diplomats, celebrities and even the Kingdom’s royal family. But his most discerning critics were waiting for him much closer to home. 

In 2021, after several years living in London, Al-Zubaidi came home to Jeddah. But instead of the football shirt his family had pictured him wearing after his UK studies in sports science, he returned in chef whites. It was a transformation that no one saw coming — least of all him. 

Growing up in Jeddah’s Al-Sabeel district with his sister and three brothers, Al-Zubaidi could barely boil his own water. The kitchen was strictly his mother’s territory, and his late-night culinary ventures didn’t go far beyond packets of instant noodles. But now, the tables had turned, and his mother was seated as his guest. 

Hijazi Corner is London’s first Saudi Arabian restaurant. (Supplied)

“When I first moved to the UK, I was clueless in the kitchen, so I called her for help,” Al-Zubaidi tells Arab News from his restaurant in London’s de facto Arab district of Edgware Road. It was her loving mentorship that laid the foundations for his culinary journey, shaping his path to becoming one of London’s most distinctive chefs. 

“When any chef starts to speak about food, they talk about their mum. Her chicken kabsa is a bit oily, a bit shiny and looks amazing — even just talking about it now I become hungry,” Al-Zubaidi says. “But even if I had the same ingredients and made it the same way, hers would always taste better.” 

Building on family recipes honed over decades by his ancestors in Yemen, Al Zubaidi’s Hijazi Corner is the only place in the UK capital where Saudis can find a true taste of home. 

Lined with thick carpets and ornate window paneling evoking the buildings of Jeddah’s Al-Balad historical district, its menu is full of comforting favorites drawn from across the Kingdom’s western coastal region — chicken seelag, slow-roasted lamb haneeth and delicate, flaky samboosek. 

Al-Zubaidi with Saudi Ambassador to the UK Prince Khalid and the latter's wife. (Supplied)

“From the richest person to the poorest person in Saudi Arabia, we eat the same food,” he says. “When we celebrate, when we grieve, when we are happy or sad, we get masoub (banana pudding) or motabbaq (thin layers of pastry stuffed with meat).” 

Al-Zubaidi’s path to the kitchen was anything but conventional. As a teenager eager to learn English, he set his sights on the UK, drawn by what he called “a love for the accent,” and made the leap in 2017. After completing his language course, he switched tracks to study sports. But somewhere between lectures and life abroad, homesickness hit in the form of a craving for the familiar flavors of Arabia. 

“In London, you can find plenty of Turkish, Kurdish, Indian, even Malaysian options — but nothing from Saudi,” he explains. “So I decided to make it myself.” He began recreating the comforting dishes of home in his small Clapham flat, selling them cash-in-hand to fellow Saudis in search of an authentic taste of the Kingdom. 

But the secret didn’t stay a secret for long. Soon, his passion found a new platform — Snapchat. 

Al-Zubaidi shared short videos of his cooking process, garnishing each clip with personal moments and mouth-watering close-ups of Saudi dishes. His humble videos quickly gained a loyal fanbase, and orders poured in from every corner of the city — particularly as COVID took hold in the early months of 2020. 

“People from the Saudi embassy added me, people from Aramco working in London added me. Saudis living here, working here, growing up here — plus lots of foreign people who had been to my country and tried this food before.” 

What started as a side hustle quickly evolved into a pop-up, and by 2023, into a brick-and-mortar restaurant where Londoners could finally experience the authentic flavors of Saudi Arabia. 

During the pop-up stage, Al-Zubaidi’s Snapchat followers became more than fans; they became enablers of his culinary vision, bringing a piece of Saudi Arabia to his London kitchen. Whenever one of his followers planned a trip from Saudi to the UK, they’d reach out, asking if he needed any hard-to-find ingredients. 

Al-Zubaidi’s requests were simple but essential — fragrant spices, fresh dill, and most importantly, the special pastry sheets that he just couldn’t source in London.   

“I’d say ‘I need the real pastry for samosa.’ And they’d bring it for me,” he says. 

The enthusiasm was mutual. His followers were just as eager to bring these reminders of home, knowing he’d transform them into the dishes they missed. 

Yet not everyone was as supportive. As he juggled his studies and the pop-up, criticism began to surface, especially from former friends back home. 

“They mocked me,” he recalls. “They’d say things like, ‘You went to the UK to study, and now you’re just selling food?’” 

Influencers he approached for social-media support brushed him off with dismissive remarks. But Al-Zubaidi was undeterred, finding new friends and switching his studies from sport to cooking. With a network of loyal clients and the backing of a few new investors he had met along the way, he began seriously considering a restaurant. 

One wealthy friend, who had seen the young chef’s determination, urged him to take the plunge. After months of hard work studying knife skills, mastering Saudi dishes, and learning the restaurant business inside out, Al-Zubaidi took the leap. 

Two years after opening its doors, Hijazi Corner is a definite success, becoming one of London’s top-rated Middle Eastern eateries. It’s perpetually packed with diners, and has become a go-to spot for celebrities, diplomats, and dignitaries from the Arab world and beyond, all seeking an authentic taste of Saudi Arabia. 

After showcasing Saudi cuisine at several festivals and events, on National Day this September, Al-Zubaidi received a special honor — an invitation to the Kingdom’s embassy in London. 

The recognition came after HRH Prince Khalid Bin Bandar Al-Saud, Saudi Arabia’s ambassador to the UK, visited Hijazi Corner and was so impressed that he mentioned it by name in his National Day speech. Al-Zubaidi, overcome with pride, shed tears of joy.  

“I am proud of what I’ve achieved, but I haven’t finished yet,” he says. “This is just the beginning—there’s so much more of Saudi culture I want to share with the world.” 


Highlights from the winning entries in the Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum International Photography Award 

Updated 15 November 2024
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Highlights from the winning entries in the Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum International Photography Award 

DUBAI: Here are three highlights from the winning entries in this year’s Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum International Photography Award.

Youmn Mohammed Almanla 

The Saudi photographer claimed second place in the ‘Color’ category of this year’s HIPA awards for this stunning image of horse riders firing rifles against a twilight sky — an example of the ancient Moroccan equestrian art known as ‘tbourida,’ which is included on UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage. It is, Almanla said in his statement, “a breathtaking display of skill, bravery, and the untamed spirit of the desert.” 

Liping Cao 

The Chinese photographer picked up the Grand Prize at this year’s awards (staged under the theme ‘Sustainability’) for this dramatic black-and-white shot he named “Quiet Power.” It shows an Australian wind farm. “The dry riverbed below the turbines adds depth, while serving as a reminder of the importance of sustainable practices,” a statement from HIPA reads. 

Fatma Alzahra Shbair 

The Palestinian photographer won first prize in the “Portfolio” category for a collection of scenes from the Gaza Strip taken over the months since Israel launched its assault on the enclave in October 2023. “Through telling the stories of others, the storyteller realized they were also sharing their own — an intertwined account of survival and collective suffering,” a HIPA statement reads.  


Saudi digital artist Khaled Makshoush: ‘I chase an atmosphere’   

Updated 14 November 2024
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Saudi digital artist Khaled Makshoush: ‘I chase an atmosphere’   

  • Makshoush is one of the participants in the newly launched Diriyah Arts Futures 

DUBAI: Saudi Arabia’s Diriyah is now nurturing the Kingdom’s creative future. The UNESCO World Heritage site recently launched Diriyah Art Futures (DAF), an initiative aimed at empowering the next generation of Saudi digital artists.  

Among the select few to join DAF’s Emerging New Media Artists program is Saudi pixel artist Khaled Makshoush, who is now part of a project designed to establish Riyadh as a global capital of new media art. 

Cranes, 2024, Pixel Art. (Supplied)

The program, designed in collaboration with France’s Le Fresnoy Studio National des Arts Contemporains, provides artists like Makshoush with access to advanced equipment, production budgets, and mentorship from international digital art experts.  

Reflecting on this opportunity, Makshoush told Arab News how meaningful it feels to exhibit and evolve his pixel art within his homeland.  

“When I started creating digital art, especially pixel art, I never thought I would get an opportunity like this, with such a program and in my own city,” he said. “I am really grateful for that and to get the chance to actually put my pixel art out there.”  

Among the select few to join DAF’s Emerging New Media Artists program is Saudi pixel artist Khaled Makshoush, who is now part of a project designed to establish Riyadh as a global capital of new media art.  (Supplied)

Makshoush’s journey into pixel art began in 2015, when he and a friend explored the idea of creating video games. While his friend handled the programming, Makshoush took on the artistic side, initially choosing pixel art for its perceived simplicity.  

Over time, that initial foray transformed into a deeper passion. By 2016, he was dedicating himself fully to the medium, honing his skills through a disciplined daily painting practice, which pushed him to continually explore new ideas and techniques.  

“This forced me to ask myself, ‘What do I want to draw? What do I want to paint? And that, I think, was a big question. It kind of led me into a journey of discovering myself,” he said. 

Today, Makshoush’s art often centers around the landscapes and cityscapes of Riyadh.  

Petrochemical, 2020, Pixel Art. (Supplied)

“I focus on feeling the space. Like, how and why does it make me feel a certain way? When I’m outside and I see something interesting, I try to explore it,” he said. 

For Makshoush, the power of pixel art lies in its ability to capture and convey a distinct impression — a quality that he strives to evoke in each piece he creates.  

“I chase an atmosphere,” he explained. “My work represents my state of mind during the time that I create (an artwork).” 

His personal connection to, and love for, Riyadh is evident in his work, which manages to be both contemporary, but somehow nostalgic at the same time, perhaps because of his retro graphics style.  

Through the DAF program, Makshoush hopes to push his skills further by experimenting with larger scales as well as with new technologies.  

Saturday Morning, 2023, Pixel Art. (Supplied)

The mentorship component of the program, he said, is particularly exciting for him, as it offers a chance to explore intersections between pixel art and other digital forms. He would love to explore techniques like programming or ways to exhibit his work interactively. He envisions his art evolving into installations that blend the virtual and physical, bridging the gap between the online world, where digital art typically lives, and tangible exhibitions. 

“The idea of moving pixel art from the screen to the physical space is intriguing — finding a balance where it retains its digital essence while existing outside the internet,” he said. 

Pixel art, so heavily linked to vintage video games from “Space Invaders” and “Pac-Man” to “Super Mario Bros,” has evolved significantly in recent years, Makshoush believes. He noted that, especially since the early 2010s, social media has helped push pixel art into new realms, with artists worldwide reimagining it and taking it beyond its nostalgic associations. He described a movement primarily driven by Japanese and Western artists, characterized by serene, almost cinematic scenes that evoke a quiet beauty.  

“It’s about creating an atmosphere rather than reliving the nostalgia of video games,” he said.  

With his newfound access to resources and mentors, Makshoush is eager to contribute to Saudi Arabia’s burgeoning digital art scene, which he sees as increasingly dynamic and influential.  

“We have a lot of digital artists now in Saudi Arabia and it is only becoming bigger and bigger,” he said. “I hope my work can inspire others as I was once inspired.”  


Recipes for Success: Chef Ranveer Brar offers advice and a delicious saag meat recipe  

Updated 14 November 2024
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Recipes for Success: Chef Ranveer Brar offers advice and a delicious saag meat recipe  

DUBAI: Celebrity chef, painter and actor Ranveer Brar was born in Lucknow, northern India, and fell in love with cooking at a very young age. While accompanying his grandfather to the local gurudwara (Sikh place of worship), he remembers sneaking into the community kitchen — known as a langar — excited by all the activity there. 

“A few years later, when I was a pre-teen, the priest called me aside and asked me to prepare the rice dish, as his wife was unwell that day. I had no list of ingredients, nor the recipe, but, recalling what I’d observed, I prepared the dish and it turned out quite well. That was my first experience of instant gratification with food,” Brar tells Arab News. “After my debut at the gurudwara, my next attempt at cooking was when my mother fell ill and I made rajma — again, without any recipe, I just made it from my memory of watching my mother make it. I overheard my dad complimenting the attempt and, at that moment, I realized that food was my calling.” 

Brar opened his first restaurant in the Gulf in Dubai late last year.  

Brar opened his first restaurant in the Gulf in Dubai late last year. (Supplied)

“Kashkan means ‘From Kashmir to Kanyakumari,’” he says. “The UAE, and Dubai in particular, seemed like the perfect venue because it is a melting pot of both cultures and cuisines, so what better place to celebrate Kashkan’s melange of flavours?”  

Here, Brar discusses his favorite ingredient, the toughest dish to perfect, and advice for amateurs. 

When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?  

Trying to do too much and over-express myself. As a result, I was losing myself — the idea I was trying to express was getting lost. With age I understood that not everything one knows needs to be expressed in a single dish. Wisdom lies in choosing the right moment for the right expression.  

What’s your top tip for amateurs? 

Stick to the basics. If you get the fundamentals right, you can rarely go wrong with cooking. They can then become the basis for innovation as one evolves. 

What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish? 

That would be coriander for me, adding a lot of freshness. From the stalks to the leaves, every element of the herb is fascinating. Also olive oil, which adds richness. 

When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?  

I don’t really. I view food as food. The reason I am who I am is because food has always made me happy, so I don’t want to take that role away from food in my life. When eating out, I try to feel, understand and appreciate the intent of the person who’s cooking. But when it’s my cooking, I tend to be quite harsh and critical of myself, because every time you cook, it’s an opportunity to improve yourself. 

What’s your favorite cuisine? 

It’s usually the local food of the place I am travelling to. Also, the simpler the restaurant, the more likely I am to end up there. I believe the essence of good food is its simplicity. What better than street food and age-old places to understand the true culture and cuisine of any place? 

(Supplied)

What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home? 

Has to be khichdi. It’s the perfect one-pot meal that has everything your appetite needs. Add in vegetables and you get a good proportion of all nutrients on your plate. And don’t forget the ghee! 

What customer request most annoys you? 

Strangely, it’s when they ask for salt! Salt is such an important element of any dish. A little too much salt can subdue other flavors and too little can fail to elevate them. I feel it’s the chef’s judgment of the amount of salt that allows us to experience the dish as intended. So when customers ask for salt it disappoints me, because the true nature of the dish might get spoiled. 

What’s your favorite dish to cook and why?    

My special chicken curry. Be it family or friends, I always get asked for that. It’s now a signature dish at Kashkan too.   

What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right? 

Biryani is something I would love to keep perfecting. You have to cook many layers of rice at the same time, giving it minimum water, minimum heat over a long period of time, with every grain of rice being the same, every layer of flavor equally coating the rice. I think biryani is the perfect test for anyone who is a student of Salt-Fat-Acid-Heat. 

As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laid back? 

I used to be a disciplinarian believing that cooking was all about control; the heat, environment, ingredients and cooking itself. Now I’m more relaxed; it’s more collaborative, it’s more about letting the team express themselves and my role is to guide them through that expression.  

RECIPE: SAAG MEAT 

(Supplied)

Preparation time: 10 minutes  

Cooking time: 35-40 minutes  

Serves 2-4 

INGREDIENTS: 

For the marination:  

4 medium Onions, sliced 

¼ cup fresh Fenugreek leaves 

¾ cup Curd, beaten 

Salt to taste 

½ tsp Turmeric powder 

½ tsp Degi red chili powder 

½ tsp Coriander powder 

1 kg Mutton (with bones)  

½  tbsp Ginger Garlic paste 

For the mutton:  

3-4 tbsp Oil 

3 Bay leaf 

2 Black cardamom 

2 Cloves 

¼ tsp Cumin seeds 

Marinated Mutton 

Salt to taste 

few fresh Fenugreek leaves 

Little water 

For the saag meat: 

1 tbsp Oil 

1 tbsp Ghee 

1 inch Ginger (peeled & chopped) 

4-5 Garlic cloves, chopped 

2 medium Onions, chopped 

2-3 Green chillies 

2 Dry red chillies 

2-3 medium bunch fresh Spinach leaves, chopped 

¼ cup Amaranth (Bathua)  

Salt to taste 

Little water 

1 tbsp Butter, cubed 

Pressure Cooked Mutton 

½ tbsp unsalted Butter or white butter, cubed (optional) 

½ tsp Mustard oil 

For garnish:  

Coriander sprig 

INSTRUCTIONS 

For marination:  

In a bowl, add onions, fresh fenugreek leaves, curd, salt to taste, turmeric powder, deg red chili powder, coriander powder, mutton, ginger garlic paste and mix it well. 

Keep it aside for further use. 

For the mutton: 

In a pressure cooker, add oil, once it's hot, add bay leaf, black cardamom, cloves, cumin seeds and let it splutter. 

Add marinated mutton and saute it for 6-7 minutes. Add salt to taste and cook for a while. 

Add a few fenugreek leaves and mix well. Add water, close the lid and cook it for 5-6 whistles or until the mutton is tender. 

Keep it aside for further use. 

For the saag meat: 

In a kadai (Indian wok), add oil, ghee, once it's hot, ginger, garlic, onion, green chillies and saute for a minute. 

Add dry red chillies and saute well. Add spinach, amaranth leaves, salt to taste, water and saute well.  

Add butter, close the lid and cook it for 3-4 minutes. 

Add cooked mutton and let it simmer for a while. 

To finish, add unsalted butter or white butter, mustard oil and stir it well. 

Transfer it to a serving dish and  garnish it with coriander sprig. 

Serve hot with roti.