RIYADH: Last month, the Mandarin Oriental Al-Faisaliah in Riyadh welcomed an exclusive pop-up of L~ARIA, from its sister property on the shores of Lake Como in Italy’s Lombardy region. Along for the ride was chef Massimiliano Blasone, who heads the kitchen at L~ARIA and oversaw the launch of the pop-up, which runs until Feb. 26.  

L~ARIA, according to a press release, “fuses traditional Italian dishes with strong Oriental influences. Japanese cooking practices and techniques enhance the finest seasonal ingredients…” 

The menu at the Riyadh pop-up includes lobster tempura, truffle taglioni and A5 Wagyu, as well as artisanal gelato for dessert.  

Here, Blasone discusses early errors, love for lemons, and comfort cuisine. 

When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made? 

Trying to add in too many elements. It just disrupts the harmony of flavors and confuses the palate. 

What’s your top tip for amateurs cooking at home? 

Base your cooking on fresh and balanced ingredients that will maintain freshness and lightness. Your dishes will then be a celebration of both those things. 

What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish? 

Lemon. It’s so versatile. You can use its lemon juice or lemon zest to add flavor to salads, to seafood dishes, and even to desserts. 

What’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants when you go out to eat? 

A lack of communication between the staff. In the restaurant industry, mistakes are inevitable, so the real challenge lies in minimizing them through continuous refinement. The focal point of my attention is always constant training and timely communication. Communication is the key to smooth and immediate coordination: every detail, every need must be shared clearly and promptly, so that every team member is aligned towards the common goal of providing a flawless culinary experience, without hesitation or misunderstandings.  

What’s your favorite cuisine?  

I am a passionate fan of comfort food — that type of cuisine that embraces the soul. So I’m always looking for dishes that are fresh, natural, and full of authenticity — qualities that only the most genuine dishes can convey. 

What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home? 

Risotto. I’m a true Italian, and risotto is one of the most beloved and versatile dishes in our cuisine. It’s a dish that, despite its simplicity, lends itself to countless interpretations, seasons, and ingredients. 

What customer request or behavior most annoys you? 

I always try to maintain a balanced, positive attitude; that’s just my natural inclination, professionally. But I do find it quite annoying when I sense signs of impatience from guests. 

What’s your favorite dish to cook and why?   

Right now, while I’m in Riyadh, my favorite dish to cook is salt-crusted sea bass. It perfectly embodies the harmony between simplicity and sophistication. It is a dish that respects the quality of the ingredients and enhances every nuance of their flavor. 

As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Do you shout a lot? Or are you more laid back? 

I’d say that, as a head chef, I’m the result of all the experience gained from working with professionals of great precision and discipline. I think my leadership is based on a foundation of rigor, but, at the same time, I firmly believe in the importance of serenity and clear communication, and, above all, balance. 

Chef Massimiliano’s maccheroncini with shellfish recipe 

(Serves 6) 

Dry pasta maccheroncini  

400 gr  

Ingredients: 

Lobster Bisque 

Lobster meat 

Shrimp meat 

Spring onion 

Tomato coulis 

Tomato concasse 

Sun-dried tomatoes 

Almond pesto 

For the Bisque: 

Ripe tomatoes 

Celery 

Carrots 

Onion 

Fennel 

Double concentrated tomato paste 

Leeks 

Non alcoholic white wine 

Garlic 

Shells (lobster carcasses) 

Basil 

Thyme 

Instructions: 

Roughly chop the vegetables. 

Toast the lobster heads. 

Sauté the vegetables and garlic. 

Deglaze with non alcoholic white wine. 

Add the tomatoes and the toasted lobster heads. 

Add ice and water to cover, along with the aromatic herbs. 

After 45 minutes, remove the shells and vegetables and strain the bisque through a fine mesh strainer. 

Let the bisque reduce over low heat, then strain it again through a fine mesh strainer. 

Tomato Coulis (for 1 portion): 

Ingredients: 

Date tomatoes (300g) 

San Marzano tomatoes (300g) 

Spring onion (100g) 

Garlic cloves, without the germ (20g) 

White onion (80g) 

Instructions: 

Chop the spring onion and white onion finely. 

Crush the garlic cloves. 

Sauté the garlic, then add the tomatoes, cut into large pieces. 

After 40 minutes, add salt to taste. 

Remove the garlic and infuse the basil in the sauce for 10 minutes. 

After 10 minutes, remove the basil, then blend the mixture using a Thermomix (or similar blender), adding extra virgin olive oil slowly in a thin stream while blending. 

Almond Pesto 

Ingredients: 

Cow’s ricotta (300g) 

Toasted, skinless almonds (150g) 

Confit tomatoes with thyme (30 pieces) 

Vegetable broth (200g) 

Garlic clove, without the germ (1 piece) 

Maldon salt (3g) 

Cooked basil, squeezed dry (150g, from cooked basil) 

Extra virgin olive oil (200g) 

Instructions: 

Prepare the broth by simmering carrots, celery, and onions that have been charred. 

Blanch the garlic 3 times in boiling water, using 3 different pans each time. 

Blanch the basil, then cool it in ice water and squeeze out any excess moisture. 

Combine the liquids (which should have been previously frozen as a cream), along with the confit tomatoes, almonds, garlic, and salt. 

Finally, add the ricotta, making sure not to overheat the mixture. 

Place the mixture in the Pacojet and freeze it. 

Blue Lobster Cooking Method 

Ingredients: 

1 kg Blue Lobster 

100g Leek 

100g Carrot 

100g Celery 

80g Fresh Parsley 

100g Lemon Juice 

10g Black Peppercorns 

Procedure: 

Prepare the vegetable broth: In a large pot, combine the leek, carrot, celery, and parsley. Add water and bring to a gentle boil, allowing the vegetables to release their flavors and aromas. Season the broth with black peppercorns and lemon juice for a delicate balance of freshness and heat. 

Cook the lobsters: Once the broth is simmering, carefully tie the lobsters in pairs, securing them upright to maintain their shape during cooking. Gently immerse the lobsters into the boiling broth and cook for exactly 5 minutes, ensuring the flesh remains tender yet firm. 

Cool and extract the lobster meat: After 5 minutes, immediately remove the lobsters and allow them to cool in the cooking liquid to preserve their flavor. Once cooled, carefully extract the lobster meat from the shells, preserving the delicate flesh. Store the lobster meat in the refrigerator until ready for use, ensuring it remains fresh and juicy. 

Dish Preparation 

Use a sauté pan made of stainless steel, with a height of 7 cm and a diameter of 20 cm, to allow for perfect emulsification of the pasta. Begin by gently sautéing the garlic in extra virgin olive oil, making sure not to burn it, to extract the flavors in a balanced way. Next, add a finely chopped mix of confit tomatoes, along with a spoonful of fresh tomato concassé, peeled and seeded, for a touch of freshness and sweetness. Cook gently over low heat, allowing the flavors to blend harmoniously. 

Deglaze with a slight splash of lime juice to add freshness and a subtle acidity. At this point, add the lobster bisque and allow it to reduce gently until a rich, flavorful sauce forms. Then, incorporate the tomato coulis, which will add an additional layer of freshness and depth to the sauce. 

Add a handful of chopped parsley, a few finely sliced basil leaves, and a small pinch of Espelette pepper, which will provide a mild spicy note without overwhelming the other flavors. Keep the sauce warm so it can meld together perfectly. 

Meanwhile, bring a pot of salted water to a boil for cooking the pasta. Cook the pasta al dente, then drain it and transfer it directly into the sauce, stirring gently to allow the pasta to absorb the flavors. If necessary, add a bit more lobster bisque to adjust the sauce's consistency. 

Remove from heat and add the previously cut lobster meat, making sure the residual heat warms it through without overcooking. Finish the dish with a final sprinkle of fresh parsley, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, and a squeeze of lemon juice to balance and enhance all the flavors. 

Pomodori Confit Preparation 

Ingredients: 

1 kg San Marzano tomatoes 

100 g Extra virgin olive oil 

100 g Fresh basil 

60 g Fresh thyme 

80 g Garlic, in the skin 

Procedure: 

Blanch the tomatoes: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Immerse the San Marzano tomatoes for about two minutes. Once the time has passed, quickly remove the tomatoes and transfer them into ice water to stop the cooking process and preserve their color and freshness. 

Peel and seed the tomatoes: Carefully peel the tomatoes, removing the seeds as well to obtain a clean pulp, ready for slow cooking. 

Prepare for the confit cooking: Arrange the tomatoes, well-spaced, on a steel baking tray. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, add the garlic cloves (still in their skin), a few fresh basil leaves, and sprigs of thyme to create an aromatic bouquet that will enhance the flavor. 

Slow cooking: Place the tray in a static oven set to 70°C (160°F) for a prolonged period of 6 hours, allowing the tomatoes to slowly dehydrate and concentrate their flavors without overcooking. 

Cooling and storage: Once the cooking is complete, let the tomatoes cool in the tray, then store them in the refrigerator to preserve their freshness and delicate flavors. 

 

 

 

RIYADH: Riyadh’s cultural landscape is undergoing a quiet transformation, where the love of coffee meets the timeless allure of literature.

Book cafes are carving out a niche as spaces where readers, thinkers, and coffee enthusiasts converge.

These havens of creativity and reflection offer retreats for the mind and soul, providing a sense of community in an increasingly fast-paced world.

The Book Club: Where stories find their home

Nestled in the Al-Yasmin district, The Book Club is a tranquil retreat for bibliophiles, particularly those passionate about Arabic literature.

Its shelves brim with carefully curated Arabic titles, from classics to contemporary gems, complemented by a modest selection of English books.

The minimalist interior, adorned with soft lighting and intimate reading nooks, creates an atmosphere conducive to focus and relaxation.

What sets The Book Club apart is its browsing policy. Visitors are welcome to skim books for three minutes before deciding to purchase, with additional purchases granting extended reading time.

During Arab News’ visit, the cafe hosted a stimulating talk with Saad Al-Bazai, titled, “Historical Fiction: Why Do They Believe in the Imagined?”

Al-Bazai told Arab News: “These gatherings bring together a diverse audience and provide them with the opportunity to meet researchers.

“This undoubtedly supports cultural life as it creates a platform for dialogue that differs from social media platforms — it is vibrant, direct, and involves personal presence.”

Sophia: A library, a cafe, and a place to connect

Sophia has become a cornerstone of Riyadh’s literary scene, acting as a hub for knowledge, creativity, and meaningful connections.

Its towering wooden shelves are filled with a rich collection of Arabic and English books, carefully curated to cater to a diverse audience.

Beyond being a library, Sophia also serves as a publishing house, amplifying the voices of local and regional authors, bringing their stories to the forefront.

What sets Sophia apart is its dedication to fostering intellectual growth and cultural exchange.

The space regularly hosts book launches, discussion panels, and thought-provoking dialogue sessions that bring together writers, readers, and thinkers from various backgrounds.

The inviting ambiance, complete with warm lighting and cozy seating, creates the perfect backdrop for these events, making each visit an enriching experience.

Aminah Al-Hassani, a loyal visitor, captured the essence of Sophia. She said: “The place is calm and serene, and it has never let me down with a bad book.

“Every book I’ve read here has been better than the last. Their selections are beautiful, and the events they organize are always beneficial and enjoyable.”

Coffee Trees: A green sanctuary

Coffee Trees, tucked away in the Al-Rayan district, offers a sanctuary that blends greenery with literary charm. The cafe’s lush decor, accentuated by vibrant plants and natural elements, transforms the space into a botanical retreat.

Though its library is modest, the curated selection of books is perfectly aligned with the cafe’s serene ambiance.

Patrons often find themselves lost in thought or pages, surrounded by the aroma of ethically sourced, expertly brewed coffee.

Whether it’s the tranquil environment or the commitment to sustainability, Coffee Trees is a favorite escape for those seeking a moment of calm in the city.

Wathbah Coffee & Book: Where timeless charm meets literature

In Al-Narjis district, Wathbah Coffee & Book exudes intellectual allure. Its floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, vintage-inspired decor, and intimate corners create a haven for readers and thinkers alike.

The carefully selected collection spans genres and eras, ensuring there’s something for everyone.

Wathbah’s ambiance is perfect for quiet reading, reflective conversations, or simply soaking in its aesthetic beauty.

As Sara Al-Ebraheem, a loyal patron, said: “There’s a certain magic in time spent in the company of good books, with a perfectly brewed coffee.”

Ons Coffee Roasters: Where simplicity meets serenity

Ons Coffee Roasters offers a minimalist haven for those who crave peace and simplicity. Its clean design, complemented by tasteful art and cozy seating, creates a calm environment perfect for unwinding.

While its library may be small, the books displayed are thoughtfully chosen to inspire reflection and curiosity.

Ons Coffee Roasters is as much about quality as it is about serenity. Its expertly brewed coffee elevates the experience, making it an ideal retreat for anyone seeking a quiet corner in Riyadh.

A cultural renaissance in Riyadh

The emerging popularity of book cafes is providing spaces where literature, art, and community thrive. The cafes cater to a growing audience of residents and visitors who value meaningful connections in an increasingly digital world.