DUBAI: Vincenzo Palermo, head pizza chef at TOTO Dubai, has built his career on one belief: “Pizza isn’t just comfort food, it’s a craft.”  

Originally from Apulia in southern Italy, Palermo has spent years refining his skills. His journey began early, watching the baking process in his family kitchen as a child. He went on to study at Rome’s API Pizza Academy.  

Over the past 14 years, his career has taken him from Italy to Russia, France, the US and now the UAE, with his pizzas earning international recognition and awards along the way — including a historic win as the youngest-ever World Champion of Neapolitan Pizza in 2018.  

When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made? 

I believed that cooking was just about combining ingredients correctly and adhering strictly to techniques. My focus was on the mechanical aspects of executing everything “correctly,” but I didn’t always bring myself into the dish; that was my biggest mistake. 

Coming from a family where food was never just food — it was tradition, emotion, and memory — I learned discipline and focus. Over time, I realized that every dish must tell a story. It could be a childhood memory, a moment of celebration, or simply a feeling you want to share, but if you do not put your heart into it, then no matter how perfect the dish appears, it lacks soul. 

The kitchen is not just about skill and technique, it’s a place for passion. Food is a language, and love is the message. That is what I try to pass on now, both to my team and on every plate that leaves the kitchen. 

What’s your top tip for amateur chefs? 

My journey began in a very humble way. I was just a child when I first stepped into the kitchen, helping my mother, making my first pizzas and simple pastas with curiosity and joy. That passion never left me. So, my top tip is this: Do not underestimate yourself just because you are cooking at home. Get into the flow, cook with heart and love, and do not place limits on what you think is possible. Everything we create in a professional kitchen, even the most refined dishes, can absolutely be recreated at home with the right mindset. Cooking is mostly about emotion, not technique, and that emotion can be felt whether you’re in a Michelin-level kitchen or your own. Believe in your hands, trust your ingredients, and enjoy the process. 

What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish? 

I’d say flour. The right flour for the right dish is absolutely essential. In Italy, we don’t just say “flour,” we talk about “tipo 00,” “semola rimacinata,” “integrale”… Each type of flour has a specific purpose, and choosing the right one shows respect for the dish and the tradition behind it. Using the right flour is like choosing the right language to express yourself. It’s the base of everything, the foundation. Even for home cooks, this choice can make the difference between something good and something truly authentic. 

When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?  

As a chef, it is natural to notice the details, but I try to approach it with an open mind. 

What’s the most common mistake or issue you find in other restaurants? 

A lack of authenticity and a disconnect between the dish and its cultural roots. Authenticity and consistency are key, and when they’re missing, it affects the overall experience. 

When you go out to eat, what’s your favorite cuisine or dish to order? 

Honestly, I love to try everything. For me, eating out is about enjoying food and learning. Every culture has its own traditions, techniques and flavors, and I want to understand the story behind each dish.  

I’m always curious. I taste something new, study it, and then think about how that ingredient or idea could inspire something in my own kitchen. That is how we grow as chefs — by keeping our minds open and constantly learning from others. 

What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home? 

Without a doubt, it’s spaghetti al pomodoro. What could be more Italian than that? It is full of soul. I love it because it represents everything I believe in: simplicity, quality and passion. When I cook it at home, even if I’m short on time, I give it my full attention, from choosing the best tomatoes and olive oil to making sure the Gragnano pasta is cooked perfectly al dente, which is non-negotiable. 

What customer request most annoys you? 

Requests that compromise the integrity of a traditional dish can be challenging. While I fully respect dietary restrictions and personal preferences, altering a classic recipe beyond recognition takes away from its authenticity. I believe in educating diners about the origins and significance of each dish to foster greater appreciation and respect. 

What’s your favorite dish to cook? 

Pizza. It’s more than just my profession, it’s a piece of my heart. I have a vivid memory from my childhood: my mother and sister in our home kitchen, cooking pizza in a pan. Of course, it was not the “right” way by traditional standards — she was not a trained chef, she was a home cook — but, like many Italian mothers, she found her own way to make something special with what she had. 

Even if the technique was not perfect, the love and passion she put into it made it unforgettable. Sometimes my sister would join her, and for me, that pan pizza became a symbol of family, comfort and creativity. Pizza means everything to me because of what it represents: love, family and the joy of making something beautiful from the heart. 

What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right? 

For me, it’s fish. It may seem simple, but it’s not easy to cook perfectly. Fish is delicate. You must respect the texture, the temperature and the timing. One second too much, and it’s dry. One second too little, and it’s raw. I always need to stay focused and keep learning. That challenge is part of what makes it so rewarding when you get it just right. 

As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback? 

Honestly, I can’t stand chefs who shout. We’ve seen it too many times in movies and on TV: the angry chef screaming, throwing pans, creating fear in the kitchen. Unfortunately, this happens in a lot of kitchens. But this is not leadership. This is not how great food is made. The kitchen is not a battlefield, and the people around me are not soldiers or slaves — they are humans, artists, professionals. As any of my team will tell you, I’m calm; I like to joke, and I create a relaxed environment. That doesn’t mean we’re not serious. When it’s time to push, I push. But we push together — fast, sharp, focused — as a team. Respect is the true foundation of a great kitchen. When people feel valued and inspired, not afraid, they cook with love. And that love is what reaches the plate. 

Chef Vincenzo Palermo’s spaghetti al pomodoro recipe 

Ingredients: 

200 gr spaghetti from gragnano  

300 gr San Marzano peeled tomato 

Fresh basil 

2 cloves of garlic 

Salt 

Pepper 

4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil 

Parmesan cheese 

Instructions: 

In a pan, gently sauté crushed garlic in olive oil. 

Add the tomatoes and let cook for about 10–15 minutes and add salt and pepper. 

In a pot, put water and salt and make it boil. 

Boil spaghetti until al dente, then transfer it to the sauce with a bit of cooking water. 

Toss everything together and finish with fresh basil and a drizzle of olive oil.  

Serve it with a gentle parmesan cheese on the top. 

Buon appetito!  

DHAHRAN: “Good Water,” the Saudi National Pavilion that reimagines our relationship with water, is sure to be popular with visitors at the London Design Biennale, which opens today.

Examining water systems, accessibility, equity and scarcity, the pavilion was commissioned by the Architecture and Design Commission and supported by the Ministry of Culture. Presented under the leadership of commission CEO Sumayah Al-Solaiman, it marks the fourth time the Kingdom has taken part in the event.

“In a Biennale that explores the intersection of inner experiences and external influences, ‘Good Water’ reflects the spirit of inquiry we hope to share with the world,” said Al-Solaiman.

“With this pavilion, we are proud to support the next generation of Saudi practitioners and provide platforms that amplify their voices on the international stage.”

Saudi artists Alaa Tarabzouni, Dur Kattan, Fahad bin Naif and Aziz Jamal worked as co-curators, collaborating across various disciplines.

“In the team, we don’t have specific roles,” Jamal told Arab News. “We all collaborated on everything. So the video, we all shot together — we all wrote together. We all have different backgrounds in the arts sector but we’ve worked together (in the Saudi art scene) for the past five years and that’s actually how we came together; it’s more of a democratic process and there’s no kind of strict guidelines.”

At the heart of the Saudi contribution in London is the sabeel, a traditional water fountain usually placed and funded privately in a shaded outdoor communal space. It is meant for use by anyone in the community, free of charge. 

The sabeel is an enduring symbol of hospitality and generosity, deeply rooted in the Arabian Peninsula and found in many spots throughout the Middle East.

“Growing up in Dhahran, you would see sabeels everywhere. Our house didn’t have one, but there was a mosque in front of our house that had one,” Jamal said.

The London installation strips the sabeel of nostalgia and re-centers it as a contemporary, working object. Visitors are invited to fill their cups — literally and figuratively, as they pause to reflect on the often unseen systems, labor and energy that make the flowing “free” water possible.

Stacks of paper cups will be provided, bearing the message “Good Water: 500 ml = one AI prompt” in vibrant color. There will also be refillable water bottles so spectators can have a “water-cooler moment” to chat, sip and ponder. 

The pavilion also features four videos, filmed at an old water factory in Riyadh, showing the painstaking journey of water from droplet to distribution. The screens trace the production process across different sizes of bottles, with each film lasting under 10 minutes.

Jamal’s relationship with water shifted since he started working on this project. 

“I have to say, watching and going to visit the water factory (in Riyadh) and seeing the enormous effort that it takes to fill up one tiny water bottle — you don’t take that effort for granted anymore,” he said. 

“Before, if there was a little bit of water in my water bottle, I would just leave it, but now it’s like, I make it a point to drink (it) all … to finish my water bottle, because it’s not just a matter of just getting the water filled up, it’s testing it, going through inspection, doing all the mineral checks. It has made me more conscious of every drop.”

Jamal’s aim is for visitors to the pavilion to quench their thirst with that same realization.

“What I really hope for is for people to interact with the piece,” he said. “We want that act of generosity to come through and we want people to drink the water.”

The eco-conscious will be glad to know the sabeel will dispense locally sourced water — not any transported from Riyadh. It will also be indoors. 

A printed catalogue written by the curators will also be available, offering further context in the form of essays, research material and images of water infrastructure and sabeels from across the Middle East and North Africa region. 

Saudi Arabia is one of the most water-scarce countries in the world. Only 2.5 percent of the world’s water is freshwater, and even less is accessible for drinking. The Kingdom is the largest producer of desalinated water globally, supplying over 60 percent of its potable water, according to the Saudi Pavilion team’s research.

“We thought (the sabeel) was a perfect anecdote to describe the attitude and the general principle behind this concept of water as a human right and not as a luxury,” Jamal said. “It’s free drinking water, but it’s from a private source. So we felt it really encompassed this specific phenomenon in Saudi, of paying it forward and offering water to people who don’t have access to it.”

With “Good Water,” the Saudi National Pavilion puts this scarcity — and the labor behind everyday hydration — center stage.

“Our research was about water and access to water,” Jamal added. “When we were first conceptualizing the piece for the London Biennale, we were looking at the infrastructure and water and access and what’s the hidden cost of free water in Saudi — and specifically looking at the object(ive) of a sabeel: What does this act of generosity and act of making water into a human right mean, and what is the hidden cost of that?”

Though the widespread distribution of plastic bottles has displaced the sabeel to some extent, Jamal emphasized its enduring relevance, especially in a country with scorching summers and large outdoor workforces.

“I think people are on the go, so they need something convenient, but I think water bottles haven’t killed off sabeels completely,” he said. “A lot of the workforce in Saudi, who have more direct contact under the sun and the streets — they still use it all the time. It’s not just drinking water — it’s cold drinking water, and in Saudi that’s very important.”

Jamal joked that after nearly a year of working on this project, the team would raise a glass of water in celebration.

The pavilion will be open until June 29 at Somerset House.