Lahore’s 13 gates to bygone glory

Delhi gate, one of Lahore's most famous gates, still shows signs of some of its old grandeur. (AN Photo)
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Updated 30 December 2019
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Lahore’s 13 gates to bygone glory

  • The gates of Lahore’s old city were the crown jewels of its legendary history, with only six still standing
  • Life inside the walled city has its own distinct culture, food and traditions 

LAHORE — The city of Lahore was established on the banks of the Ravi River centuries ago. 

Due to continuous invasions, pillage, and attacks, the city had a high brick wall built around it with 12 gates and one narrow passageway, bringing the total to 13. 

But half of Lahore’s grand gates were destroyed. Six continue to stand, and carry some traces of their past, with each boasting its own unique history.

“The real gates of Lahore were demolished in the British era. A few gates were reconstructed again but not in their original structure. Now, seven out of the 13 have vanished,” Najum Saqib, Director Conservation, Walled City Lahore Authority (WCLA), told Arab News.

Inside the old city, life seems to exist largely untouched by time. Many streets are too narrow for cars and every crooked alleyway has its own story to tell about the unique culture of its locals.

Taxali Gate-

In the past, invaders entered Lahore from the West, and the first gate they would see was the Taxali, home of Lahore’s infamous old Red Light District. This is also the site of Lahore’s Gawalmandi, or food street, a bustling tourist destination packed full of delectable local treats, their recipes passed down through the generations.

Taxali was historically an upper-class area of the city. The subcontinent’s renowned musicians and singers belonged to neighborhoods inside the gate. 

The British demolished Taxali Gate for military reasons and it was never built again.

Bhatti gate-

This is the second gate on the western side. The old structure was demolished and rebuilt by the British. It remains a bustling center of commerce but locals say increasing urbanization has marred the traditional values of life inside the old gate. 

“The life inside Bhatti gate is not the same. There was a time when everyone knew everyone. Now people are more secretive about their work, their life and not open with each other the way they once were,” Mian Ismaeel, 93, a resident of Bhatti gate, told Arab News.

Mori Gate-

Mori gate, to the south, was never considered a gate by historians. 
“Mori gate has not been considered a gate in any historical writing but the people of Lahore always counted it as the 13th gate. The gate has been destroyed and not even a single sign remains,” Adil Lahori, head of Lahore Heritage Foundation, told Arab News. 
Presently, the area has been turned into Lahore’s biggest fish market.




A narrow street, once the standing ground of the unofficial 13th gate of Lahore- Mori Gate which was demolished by the British. Dec. 1, 2019. (AN Photo)

Lahori Gate-

This gate still stands-- the first gate constructed by Emperor Akbar. It faces Anarkali Bazar and remains a commercial hub to this day.

Once, the glamorous red-light district was located inside Lahori Gate, and the city’s richest dancers would reside here in beautiful palaces called Havelis.

A few derelict Havelis still exist, inhabited by multiple families without a care for the historic value of their homes. 
The area was also the first international market of the sub-continent as Europeans began the business of buying indigo here. It was the biggest market of the indigo dye in the world, and Lahore its biggest producer.

“It is a wrong perception that the West started the business of spices in the sub-continent first... rather they started buying bluing from here and exported it to Europe,” Adil Lahori said.




Lahori Gate as it stands today, rebuilt by the British in the 19th century. Dec. 1, 2019. (AN Photo)

Shah Alam Gate-

Lovingly called Shahalmi by Lahore’s residents, the original gate was destroyed when its buildings and a majority of its residents were reduced to ashes during pre-partition riots in 1946. 
It was once a Hindu-dominated area and a hub of commerce and trade. Even today, it depicts the same tradition of business with one of Asia’s largest wholesale markets. 

 “In 1957, the partly burnt Shahalmi Gate was pulled down by the Lahore administration for rebuilding-- a dream that never came true,” said Ahmad Hassan, 90, an old resident of Shahalmi.





The facade of shop-fronts where Shah Alam Gate once stood before being burnt to the ground in the 1946 pre-partition riots. Dec 1, 2019. (AN Photo)


Mochi Gate-

Inside the Mochi gate, shops sell dry fruit, fireworks, and kites. The area is home to iconic Shi’ite buildings, nestled in the middle of the walled city’s network of narrow and bustling streets, from where the annual procession of Moharram begins. 

Historically, the area inside Mochi gate served as the city’s ‘ordinance factory,’ where arrows, swords, bows, horse-saddles, and javelins were produced.

Mochi gate was also demolished by the British.




Street in Lahore's walled city, once leading to Mochi gate before it was destroyed by the British during colonial rule. Dec. 1, 2019. (AN Photo).

Akbari Gate- 

Within this gate, there was a great spice market during the Mughal era, with traders visiting from all over South and Central Asia. Even today, it is considered an important market for spices and grain.

“This is a centuries’ old market of spices that not only caters to the needs of Pakistan but also Afghanistan. The Afghans buy spices from here and export them to the Central Asian states,” Hammad Butt, a spice trader, told Arab News.

The British East India Company began its trade of spices from this very place. The original gate was demolished by the British.




Akbari Gate of Lahore's famous fort. The gate was used by Mughal kings to get into the fort and the city. Dec. 1, 2019. (AN Photo)

Delhi Gate-

The famous ‘Delhi Darwaza’ is situated on the eastern side of Lahore’s Walled City and opens in the direction of Delhi in India, the capital of the Mughal dynasty. 

The gate has been conserved by authorities and is illuminated at night for tourists. 




Delhi gate, one of Lahore's most famous gates, still shows signs of some of its old grandeur. (AN Photo)

Kashmiri Gate-

 Kashmiri gate is so named because of its direction toward the valley of Kashmir. It houses one of the biggest cloth markets in Asia-- Azam Cloth Market. 




A view of the walled city's Kashmiri gate. The original gate was razed to the ground and in its current form built by the British government in India. The gate has been renovated several times. Dec. 1, 2019. (AN Photo)

Yakki Gate- 

The last gate on the eastern side, where several Mughal courtiers spent their lives, with the remains of their Havelis still existing. The gate was demolished during the British Raj and never constructed again. 




A road and market that was once the location of the ancient Yakki gate. Dec. 1, 2019. (AN Photo) 

Khizri Gate-

This gate was constructed on the banks of the Ravi river flowing by the city walls, with residents traveling by boats. The gate still stands but in a derelict state.

Masti Gate-

This was the gate the Mughals used to reach the fort. At present, wholesale and retail markets for shoes are spread out inside the gate.

Roshnai Gate-

This is the only gate that has survived with its grandeur intact. It was used by notables, courtiers and the elite to attend court. In the evening, the lights lit here could be seen from the walled city which gave it its name, Roshnai. This gate still remains in its original shape and structure-- a hidden treasure of centuries’ old Mughal grandeur.

“The significance of these gates has been lost with the passage of time,” Meem Seen Butt, a Lahore-based historian, and writer of several books on the city, told Arab News. 

“Now they have heritage value, and are used solely for symbolic purposes.” 


Trump nominee for South Asia secretary backs Pakistan security cooperation ‘where beneficial for US’

Updated 11 June 2025
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Trump nominee for South Asia secretary backs Pakistan security cooperation ‘where beneficial for US’

  • Paul Kapur says will continue to promote “longstanding US security interests with India and Pakistan”
  • Kapur is professor at the US Naval Postgraduate School, visiting faculty member at Hoover Institution

ISLAMABAD: Paul Kapur, President Donald Trump’s nominee to be assistant secretary of state for South Asian affairs, said this week he would pursue security cooperation with Pakistan “where beneficial to US interests.”

Kapur was speaking during a confirmation hearing before the US Senate on Tuesday.

“On Pakistan, if confirmed, I will pursue security cooperation where beneficial to US interests, while seeking opportunities for bilateral collaboration in trade and investment,” Kapur said in his testimony. 

“South Asia recently avoided a costly conflict, with the [US] Vice President and Secretary [of State Marco] Rubio intensely engaged on the issue. If confirmed, I will continue to promote longstanding US security interests with India and Pakistan through the pursuit of peace and stability, and the fight against terrorism.”

Kapur is, as of 2025, a professor at the US Naval Postgraduate School. He is a visiting faculty member at the Hoover Institution and has taught at Claremont McKenna College. He was also a visiting professor at Stanford University.

In 2025, Kapur was nominated as the Assistant Secretary of State for South and Central Asian Affairs by the second Trump administration, succeeding Donald Lu.

Pakistani observers are carefully watching Kapur’s appointment as he wrote in his book ‘Jihad as Grand Strategy’ that jihad was a major part of Pakistan’s grand strategy, and not just a “political instrument” it used. He has claimed that the utilization of jihad by Pakistan is an intentional government strategy.


US warns against attending UN conference on Israel-Palestinian two-state solution

Updated 11 June 2025
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US warns against attending UN conference on Israel-Palestinian two-state solution

  • Two close allies France and Saudi Arabia are co-hosting the gathering next week in New York
  • It aims to lay out parameters for roadmap to Palestinian state while ensuring Israel’s security

PARIS/WASHINGTON: US President Donald Trump’s administration is discouraging governments around the world from attending a UN conference next week on a possible two-state solution between Israel and the Palestinians, according to a US cable seen by Reuters.

The diplomatic demarche, sent on Tuesday, says countries that take “anti-Israel actions” following the conference will be viewed as acting in opposition to US foreign policy interests and could face diplomatic consequences from Washington.

The demarche, which was not previously reported, runs squarely against the diplomacy of two close allies France and Saudi Arabia, who are co-hosting the gathering next week in New York that aims to lay out the parameters for a roadmap to a Palestinian state, while ensuring Israel’s security.

“We are urging governments not to participate in the conference, which we view as counterproductive to ongoing, lifesaving efforts to end the war in Gaza and free hostages,” read the cable.

President Emmanuel Macron has suggested France could recognize a Palestinian state in Israeli-occupied territory at the conference.

French officials say they have been working to avoid a clash with the US, Israel’s staunchest major ally.

“The United States opposes any steps that would unilaterally recognize a conjectural Palestinian state, which adds significant legal and political obstacles to the eventual resolution of the conflict and could coerce Israel during a war, thereby supporting its enemies,” the cable read.

This week Britain and Canada, also G7 allies of the United States, were joined by other countries in placing sanctions on two Israeli far-right government ministers to pressure Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu to bring the Gaza war to an end.

“The United States opposes the implied support of the conference for potential actions including boycotts and sanctions on Israel as well as other punitive measures,” the cable read.

Israel has repeatedly criticized the conference, saying it rewards Hamas for the Oct. 7, 2023 attack on Israel that triggered the latest Gaza war, and it has lobbied France against recognizing a Palestinian state.

The US State Department and the French Foreign Ministry did not immediately respond to requests for comment. 


US CENTCOM chief calls Pakistan ‘phenomenal partner’ in ongoing counterterrorism fight

Updated 55 min 50 sec ago
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US CENTCOM chief calls Pakistan ‘phenomenal partner’ in ongoing counterterrorism fight

  • Pakistan and the United States have a long, if at times turbulent, history of counterterrorism cooperation
  • Pakistani officials last year arrested and extradited a Daesh militant accused of planning 2021 bombing in Kabul

KARACHI: The head of United States Central Command (CENTCOM), General Michael Kurilla, this week praised Pakistan as a “phenomenal partner” in counterterrorism efforts, citing continued operations against militant groups and active intelligence-sharing between the two countries.

Pakistan and the United States have a long, if at times turbulent, history of counterterrorism cooperation dating back to the aftermath of the September 11, 2001, attacks. Islamabad was a key partner during the US-led war in Afghanistan, and over the years has captured and handed over numerous Al-Qaeda operatives to US authorities.

In a more recent high-profile case, Pakistani officials last year arrested and extradited a Daesh militant accused of planning the 2021 Abbey Gate bombing in Kabul, which killed 13 American service members and more than 160 Afghan civilians during the US military withdrawal.

“They’re in an active counter-terrorism fight right now and they have been a phenomenal partner in the counter-terrorism world,” Kurilla said during a testimony before the House Armed Services Committee in Washington on Tuesday.

Kurilla pointed to recent Pakistani operations targeting Daesh (ISIS-Khorasan), particularly in the tribal areas bordering Afghanistan.

“Through a phenomenal partnership with Pakistan, they have gone after Daesh Khorasan (Daesh) killing dozens of them through a relationship we have with them providing intelligence. They have captured at least five Daesh Khorasan (Daesh) high value individuals,” he said.

“So, we are seeing Pakistan with limited intelligence that provided them go after them using their means to do that and we’re seeing an effect on Daesh (Daesh).”

Kurtis added that both Pakistan and the Afghan Taliban were conducting parallel operations against Daesh along the border.

Kurilla also noted the close personal coordination between military leaders, recalling that Pakistan’s army chief had informed him directly of a major capture.

“Field Marshal Asim Munir called me to tell me they had captured one of the Daesh-K individuals,” he said.

While Pak-Us relations have often been strained by mutual mistrust — particularly over drone strikes, militant sanctuaries, and geopolitical alignment — security cooperation between the two militaries has persisted, especially in the intelligence domain.

Pakistan and the United States reaffirmed their commitment to counterterrorism cooperation during a bilateral dialogue held in Washington in May. The talks focused on threats from groups such as the Tehreek-e-Taliban Pakistan (TTP) and Daesh, both of which remain active in the region.

Another round of counterterrorism talks is scheduled to take place later this month between Islamabad and Washington as part of broader efforts to rebuild ties and coordinate on shared security priorities.

US officials have increasingly acknowledged Pakistan’s role in containing regional terrorist threats, even as Islamabad faces internal challenges from a resurgent TTP and growing political and economic instability.
 


Newlyweds die by suicide in Pakistan after family unable to arrange honeymoon funding — police

Updated 11 June 2025
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Newlyweds die by suicide in Pakistan after family unable to arrange honeymoon funding — police

  • Police say factory worker Sajjad Ali, wife Fauzia Bibi jumped in front of train after brother could not arrange funds to pay for honeymoon
  • Brother Fahad says unaware of reasons for suicide, found out about incident from locals who reported deaths at nearby railway station

KARACHI: A newlywed couple in the Pakistani city of Faisalabad died by suicide this week from jumping in front of a moving train after their family could not arrange funds for their honeymoon, police said, while the man’s family said they did not know the reason why the duo decided to end their lives. 

Station House Officer Mazhar Irfan told Arab News the couple, identified as factory worker Sajjad Ali and his wife Fauzia Bibi, had married four months ago but could not afford a honeymoon trip to the hill station town of Murree.

“Ali, a factory worker, had asked his elder brother Fahad for money for the trip. Fahad… couldn’t help,” Irfan said, adding that the couple then went to the railway tracks near the city’s Gatti Station, from where Ali called his brother to say they were going to take their own lives.

“Then they jumped in front of the train.”

The incident occurred around 5:45 a.m. near Nishatabad Bridge on Tuesday, when the Badar Express traveling from Faisalabad to Lahore struck the pair, according to Railways Police spokesperson Kanwar Umair Sajid.

However, Fahad, the older brother of Ali, said he was unaware of the reasons for the couple’s actions.

“I don’t know why they committed suicide… I only found out when people from the area told me someone had died near the railway station,” Fahad said, adding that he was shocked to identify the bodies as his brother and sister-in-law.

The investigation has been closed at the family’s request, Irfan, the SHO, said.

Suicide remains deeply taboo in Pakistan, where mental health services are limited. Official statistics are scarce, but estimates suggest rates may be underreported. 

Citing an analysis of newspaper reports, around 2,295 suicides occurred over 2019-2020, with 14.1 percent linked to financial problems. According to Dawn, the suicide rate rose from 7.3 per 100,000 in 2019 to 9.8 in 2022.

Experts link stealth financial pressure and social stigma to increased mental health suffering across households. Psychiatrists say financial hardship is among the most common suicide stressors for young people in low-income communities in Pakistan. 

With few mental health resources, just one psychiatrist per roughly 500,000 people and less than 1 percent of health budgets devoted to mental care, Pakistan struggles to support those in crisis.


Pakistan says won’t be baited into ‘war theatrics,’ warns India against Indus Treaty violation

Updated 11 June 2025
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Pakistan says won’t be baited into ‘war theatrics,’ warns India against Indus Treaty violation

  • Pakistani delegation says India threatening missile strikes “not display of strength but dangerous sign of regional instability”
  • Weeks after worst military confrontation in decades, India and Pakistan have dispatched delegations to press their cases in US, UK

KARACHI: The head of an official delegation visiting world capitals to present Islamabad’s position following a recent military standoff with New Delhi on Wednesday accused Indian external affairs minister S. Jaishankar of behaving like a “warmonger, not a diplomat” but said Pakistan would not be baited into “war theatrics.”

Speaking at a press conference in London, former Pakistani foreign minister Bilawal Bhutto Zardari, who is heading the high-level delegation lobbying Western governments, rejected what he called “recycled allegations” from New Delhi about Islamabad’s role in cross-border terrorism and warned that India’s threats to stop Pakistan’s flow of river water could escalate into an open conflict.

Speaking in Brussels on Tuesday, the Indian foreign minister had warned the West that Pakistan-sponsored terrorism would “eventually come back to haunt you.”

“Mr. Jaishankar speaks like a warmonger and not a diplomat. If he believes that threatening nuclear war is diplomacy, then India’s problem isn’t Pakistan, it’s extremism inside its own cabinet,” Bhutto Zardari said. “Threatening missile strikes and boasting about escalation is not a display of strength. It’s a dangerous sign of regional instability.”

He also mocked India’s claim that Pakistan was behind a April 22 militant attack in Indian-administered Kashmir that triggered a four-day military confrontation in May. Pakistan has denied the accusations and demanded India present evidence.

“If Jaishankar is so enamored by Google images, I suggest he Google Abhinandan Chaiwala,” he said, referring to a 2019 dogfight after which Indian pilot Abhinandan Varthaman was captured and then released by Pakistan.

“India knows that Pakistan had nothing to do with this attack. This was indigenous terrorism within Indian-occupied Kashmir, a secure intelligence failure of the Indian government,” he added.

On water, Bhutto Zardari issued a stern warning against what Islamabad described as India’s “weaponization” of shared rivers under the 1960 Indus Waters Treaty, brokered by the World Bank.

After the April 22 attack, India had announced it was unilaterally terminating the treaty and would halt Pakistan’s waters. The agreement had long been considered a rare pillar of cooperation between the two sides.

“If India actually carries out this threat, then Pakistan has already said that this declaration will be a war,” Bhutto Zardari said.

“If we want to create an environment for dialogue, where we can talk about the issue of Kashmir or any other issue, then it is very important to follow the old treaties.”

DIPLOMATIC BLITZ

Pakistan and India have launched competing diplomatic offensives across major capitals weeks after their worst military escalation in decades in which the two nuclear-armed nations exchanged missile, drone, and artillery fire until the United States and other allies brokered a ceasefire on May 10.

Bhutto Zardari’s delegation is currently in London after visiting the United States and is scheduled to travel onwards to Brussels. Indian opposition MP and former UN under-secretary Shashi Tharoor is leading a parallel outreach effort for New Delhi, presenting India’s case that Kashmir is a domestic matter and accusing Pakistan of supporting terrorism — a charge Islamabad denies.

Earlier in London, Bhutto Zardari met with senior British diplomats and UK-based Kashmiri leaders, and accused India of violating international agreements, including the Indus Waters Treaty.

“The Jammu & Kashmir dispute remains the unfinished agenda of the United Nations and the unhealed wound of Partition,” he wrote in a post on X. “In all my interactions, Kashmir was central — its people’s inalienable right to self-determination under UNSC resolutions must be upheld.”

He also met with Christian Turner, former British High Commissioner to Pakistan and incoming UK Permanent Representative to the United Nations.

“Welcomed the UK’s emphasis on diplomacy and dialogue, and encouraged its continued, constructive role in supporting de-escalation and encouraging dialogue for resolution of the Jammu & Kashmir dispute, the unfinished agenda of Partition and British legacy,” Bhutto Zardari said after the meeting.

As both governments build their respective cases ahead of a high-level UN session on South Asia later this month, Pakistan has framed its position as one of restraint and diplomacy.

“We want peace, stability, and regional integration,” Bhutto Zardari said at the London press meet.

“Pakistan won’t be baited into war theatrics. We will defend ourselves if attacked, but we do not crave conflict.”