Naskh calligraphy: Timeless adaptability of an age-old script

Naskh’s timeless cursive stylization was established by the Abbasid vizier and calligrapher Abu Ali Muhammad ibn Muqla. (Supplied)
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Updated 22 March 2020
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Naskh calligraphy: Timeless adaptability of an age-old script

  • Naskh has been widely used throughout the centuries to copy small manuscripts and scientific, literary and cultural books, as well as Qur’ans, mainly due to its high legibility, subtle simplicity and efficacy of execution

DUBAI: Calligraphy is one of the most important, sacred and characteristic expressions of Islam and the non-Muslim Arab world and has continually evolved and adapted since its formal introduction in the seventh century.

Styles such as Naskh have held strong and stayed relevant, opening up fresh channels of spiritual interpretation and contemporary use.

Naskh has been widely used throughout the centuries to copy small manuscripts and scientific, literary and cultural books, as well as Qur’ans, mainly due to its high legibility, subtle simplicity and efficacy of execution.

Maryam Ekhtiar, a scholar and curator at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, said that while digitalization and technologies had “challenged the supremacy of traditional calligraphy and have gradually replaced handwritten texts,” Naskh remained relevant. The 10th-century script has been adapted to computer fonts that are used regularly in print and online publications.




Styles such as Naskh have held strong and stayed relevant, opening up fresh channels of spiritual interpretation and contemporary use. (Supplied)

Naskh’s timeless cursive stylization was established by the Abbasid vizier and calligrapher Abu Ali Muhammad ibn Muqla. Following aesthetic rules, an elegant, smaller and more delicate Naskh emerged as one of six classical proportional scripts alongside Thuluth, Muhaqqaq, Rayhani, Tawqi’ and Riqa’.

Ibn Muqla’s system was based on a series of ratios around two shapes: a circle with the diameter of the letter Alif—and rhomboid dots created by the stroke of a calligrapher’s reed pen nib.

Similar to other Arabic scripts, Naskh features a straight stroke Alif and differentiates sounds through letter pointing in the form of one to three dots above or below letters, and engages a horizontal baseline, save for when a letter begins with the tail of a preceding letter.

Master calligrapher Ibn Al-Bawwab and Yaqut Al-Musta’simi further refined Ibn Muqla’s system, with enhancements and innovations. By the 17th century in Iran, Ahmad Nairizi’s revival Naskh rendered the script larger and more readable with spacing, clear bold letters and vocalization marks.

Historically utilized more frequently in books and administrative documents than for Qur’ans, Naskh and Kufic lent themselves seamlessly to abstraction, foliation and pictorial ornamentation.




Naskh’s timeless cursive stylization was established by the Abbasid vizier and calligrapher Abu Ali Muhammad ibn Muqla. (Supplied)

Such embellishments provided calligraphers, illuminators and bookbinders with the double opportunity for experimentation and compositional innovation while remaining a pious act and conveying meaning.

However, as the expansion of the calligraphic practice resulted in more complex roles and meanings for the act and outcome, Ekhtiar noted scholar Sheila Blair’s assertion that the challenge for the calligrapher became an “ambiguity of purpose” — finding the balance between “the rigors of the calligraphic discipline, the communication of information, and the desire to instill wonder in the viewer.”

Ekhtiar pointed out that the tension between verbal clarity and design was neither new nor modern. In Khurasan metalwork from the 10th century, as well as calligraphic works from 12th- to 13th-century Mosul, Naskh playfully adopted anthropomorphic forms.

“In my exhibition, ‘The Decorated Word: Writing and Picturing in Islamic Calligraphy,’ I showed that this interplay has been a distinguishing feature of Islamic calligraphy for centuries and is traceable to the early Islamic era,” she said.

From the late 15th and 16th centuries onward, there were many instances in which abstraction and ornamentation overshadowed verbal clarity. Calligrams — pictorial calligraphy — for example, became increasingly popular in 18th and 19th century Ottoman Turkey and Deccan India. It is a tendency that continues in modern and contemporary expressions of calligraphy, beginning in the mid-20th century.

Lilia Ben Salah, co-founding director of Dubai’s Elmarsa Gallery, said: “There’s been a real evolution — it was very avant-garde when artists started experimenting with new forms of Arabic calligraphy in the 1940s and 50s.

“Artists today use calligraphy the same way modernists used surrealism or abstract expressionism — it’s an artistic expression. It’s not rebranding, but the use, means and expression have been transformed within a contemporary art context.

“But it’s very cultural. Artists like Hossein Zenderoudi, Nja Mahdaoui, Khaled Ben Slimane and Rachid Koraichi use it in different visual approaches to express spirituality. They have really created their own language from their historical, cultural backgrounds,” added Ben Salah.

Although traditional calligraphy is not practiced widely today, Naskh continues to be a relevant script, opening doors for discussions on the wider uses and evolutions of calligraphic fonts, and its use by modern and contemporary artists.

“Some artists reinforce calligraphy’s historical and traditional ties, while others use this art form to express political, social, and economic issues, and questions of national and personal identity,” said Ekhtiar.

Tunisian Mahdaoui actively subverts calligraphic foundations in order to “freely exit the graphic structure of the Arabic letters or the verb syntax and the structure of the style.”

He said: “I believe that the final objective is a work of art in which materials are meaning-loaded symbols. I have tried to extract the original signification power of these materials in order to achieve an aesthetic of form. While exclusively working on form, regardless of its meaning, I enjoy the freedom of presenting all the combinations that I like.”

Ben Salah said that contemporary interpretations had taken calligraphy to another dimension that had allowed globalized younger generations to tap into the tradition, adding that there remained infinite possibilities for creative investigation.

Scripts such as Naskh, which remain relevant while also leaving room for inventiveness, indicate the staying power of its style as well as that of Islamic calligraphy as an art form.

“Many contemporary artists not only deem it relevant but continue to explore the versatility and the infinite artistic possibilities of the Arabic letters, using the art of writing as the basis for a new visual language. This will hopefully continue for generations,” added Ekhtiar.


Kerry Washington hits the red carpet in Elie Saab

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Kerry Washington hits the red carpet in Elie Saab

DUBAI: US actress Kerry Washington showed off a gown by Elie Saab in Hollywood this week, while Jennifer Lopez opted for a look by Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad.

Washington and Lopez attended the 2024 Governors Awards in Los Angeles in their chosen Lebanese designs, with the former opting for an off-white gown from Saab’s Spring/ Summer 2024 Couture line and the latter showing off a beaded number from Murad’s Fall/Winter 2024 Couture collection.

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Lopez accessorized with a Tyler Ellis bag, while Washington went for jewelry by British label Anabela Chan to complement the gem-encrusted neckline of her gown.

Lopez made the red carpet appearance fresh off a stint in Riyadh, where she performed at Elie Saab’s 45th anniversary show.

The songstress hit the stage in Saudi Arabia on Nov. 13 alongside Celine Dion, Halle Berry, Camila Cabello, Nancy Ajram and Amr Diab.

Opening the show was none other than Hollywood actress Berry wearing the same Elie Saab gown she wore when she won her first Oscar in 2002, making her the first Black woman to win the award for Best Actress.

Prior to the show, Berry was seen on the red carpet talking about how this was her first time meeting Saab in person, “That was the highlight of this trip for me to finally meet this man who I have been inextricably connected to for 22 years, and to give him a hug and tell him thank you.”

Celebrity stylist Law Roach, known for styling Hollywood A-listers like Zendaya, Anya Taylor Joy, Bella Hadid, and Celine Dion, talked to Arab News about Elie Saab’s ability to transcend eras.

“Elie Saab is one of the few couturiers whose clothes can be passed down to generations and generations and be reinterpreted.”

“Maybe someone got married in it (a dress), and maybe generations down the granddaughter of someone gets married in the same dress, it has that possibility of just being timeless and forever,” he said.

The evening was attended by more than 1,000 guests, including Egyptian actress Youssra; Italian star Monica Bellucci; British models Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Poppy Delevingne and Jourdan Dunn; supermodels Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel and Helena Christensen; and Arab actresses Nadine Njeim, Cyrine Abdel Nour, and Tara Emad.


Princess Rajwa attends parliament session in Jordan 

Updated 19 November 2024
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Princess Rajwa attends parliament session in Jordan 

DUBAI: Saudi-born Jordanian royal Princess Rajwa Al-Hussein attended a ceremony marking the inauguration of the first ordinary session of the 20th Parliament in Amman on Monday, marking her second public appearance since the birth of her first child this summer. 

The royal showed off an elegant black ensemble for the occasion, complete with an oversized belt by Dior and pumps by Chloe. The look was finished off with the Goji Mini Bag in Black by Jill Sander. 

Princess Rajwa was photographed alongside Queen Rania, who showed off a red look courtesy of Maison Valentino and Altuzarra. 

Princess Rajwa made her first public appearance since the birth of Princess Iman bint Al-Hussein bin Abdullah II at a 2026 FIFA World Cup qualification match in October. 

On August 3, 2024, the royal welcomed her first child, Princess Iman, with Crown Prince Hussein bin Abdullah. 

At her birth, Jordan’s King Abdullah posted a tribute to his granddaughter on social media. Translated from Arabic, the post read: "I thank God for giving us our first granddaughter Iman bint Hussein. I congratulate beloved Hussein and Rajwa for their newborn.

“We ask God to raise her well and protect her for her parents. You have lit up our family.”

Princess Rajwa, who celebrated her 30th birthday in April, is the daughter of late Saudi businessman Khalid bin Musaed bin Saif bin Abdulaziz Al-Saif, who died in January this year, and his wife, Azza bint Nayef Abdulaziz Ahmad Al-Sudairi.


Flormar seeks to expand Saudi footprint to meet growing demand in beauty market

Updated 19 November 2024
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Flormar seeks to expand Saudi footprint to meet growing demand in beauty market

DUBAI: Skincare and makeup brand Flormar is planning to triple the number of its stores in Saudi Arabia over the next four to five years to meet the demand of a burgeoning and increasingly competitive market.

Established in Milan, Italy, in the late 1950s, the company is now headquartered in Turkiye. Arab News spoke to CEO Matthieu Gomart about why he is so keen to increase the brand’s presence — currently 25 outlets — in the Kingdom.

“The beauty market in the Middle East — and specifically in Saudi Arabia — is quite dynamic,” he explained. “They have double-digit growth, making it one of our most exciting markets.”

Flormar has undergone something of a transformation in recent years, refining its product lines and formulations to appeal to a broader, more discerning audience. 

(Supplied)

Gomart said the brand’s approach has evolved to focus “on high-quality makeup at affordable prices” that aligned with skincare and ethical beauty trends. 

The company’s clean and vegan products, designed to enhance skin health, have been particularly well-received among Saudi consumers, he added, noting an increasing appetite for natural ingredients and skin-friendly formulations. 

(Supplied)

It is a trend highlighted by panelists at Riyadh’s Hia Hub beauty conference in October. Industry insiders, such as Chalhoub Group president Patrick Chalhoub, told Arab News the under-30 demographic “use skincare products more frequently and are willing to experiment with innovative products, even with brands that are not necessarily very popular.”

With an entire conference dedicated to growing the Kingdom’s skincare market, it is no wonder Flormar has identified it as a target segment.

Gomart said Saudi consumers were also embracing innovations such as “skinification” — adding skincare benefits to makeup products.

To meet this demand, Flormar is adapting its offerings to include sun protection and hydration in its makeup line.

“Saudis have a strong appetite for those nutrients,” he said.

Flormar’s growth includes partnerships with local retailers, distribution through pharmacy chains, and plans to expand its e-commerce footprint.

“We are happy to be contributing to the rise of self-expression in Saudi Arabia,” Gomart added.


Lindsay Lohan stuns in New York wearing Zuhair Murad

Updated 19 November 2024
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Lindsay Lohan stuns in New York wearing Zuhair Murad

DUBAI: Hollywood star Lindsay Lohan has been in New York City this week showing off pieces by Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad.

The actress appeared on “The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon” in an outfit from the designer’s Resort 2025 ready-to-wear collection which included a black, long-sleeved top with structured shoulders and silver jeweled detailing down one side. The ensemble was completed with a matching black skirt, paired with black heels.

Lohan also attended the premiere of the romantic comedy “Our Little Secret” alongside her husband, Kuwaiti financier Bader Shammas, choosing a black gown from Murad’s Spring/Summer 2025 ready-to-wear collection. The sleeveless dress featured a plunging neckline with two statement crystal-embellished motifs at the midriff.

The flowing skirt incorporated sheer panels and she topped off the look with open-toe black heels and subtle jewelry, with her hair in soft waves.

Lohan also attended the premiere of the romantic comedy “Our Little Secret” alongside her husband, Kuwaiti financier Bader Shammas. (Getty Images)

“Our Little Secret,” due for release on Netflix on Nov. 27, tells the story of Avery (Lohan) who is planning to spend Christmas with her boyfriend’s family. Things take an unexpected turn when she discovers that ex-boyfriend Logan (played by Ian Harding) is also joining the festivities, as it transpires their current partners are siblings. Avery and Logan must navigate the holiday while ensuring their former relationship remains a secret.

Meanwhile, Murad has made headlines elsewhere this week, dressing various other Hollywood celebrities.

Jennifer Lopez, a longtime admirer of his work, attended the 2024 Governors Awards on Sunday  in a black and silver dress featuring a sheer bodice, intricate beadwork and a high neckline with layered embellishments as she. The waist was accented with crystal-embellished motifs, and the outfit included a black velvet train.

Last week, over to the premiere of “Wicked” in Los Angeles, Lopez walked the red carpet in a halter gown with gemstone embellishments and side cut-outs from Murad’s Spring/Summer 2024 couture line.

This week, Argentine model and actress Eva De Dominici also opted for a Murad gown at the Los Angeles premiere of her comedy-drama, “The Uninvited.” She wore a silk and suede gown featuring lace cut-outs from the designer’s Fall 2024 ready-to-wear collection.


Arabs cheer on newly crowned Miss Universe Victoria Kjaer Theilvig

Updated 18 November 2024
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Arabs cheer on newly crowned Miss Universe Victoria Kjaer Theilvig

DUBAI: Arabs around the world congratulated Victoria Kjaer Theilvig who was crowned Miss Universe 2024 on Sunday, becoming the first contestant from Denmark to achieve the honor.

The dancer, entrepreneur, and animal rights activist beat out more than 120 contestants in the pageant's 73rd edition held in Mexico City, two years after she visited the UAE and posed for snaps in Dubai’s desert surroundings on holiday.

“I have been waiting for my whole life for this moment,” she said during the swimsuit round of the pageant.

“No matter where you come from, no matter your past, you can always choose to turn it into your strengths,” she also said on the Miss Universe stage.

X user Asia Alwasity echoed several other commentors who praised Theilvig’s apparent lack of cosmetic surgery. “She deserves it, she is a natural beauty with no cosmetic surgeries done,” she wrote in Arabic.

Another X commentor, @goodluck11974, wrote in Arabic, “Her beauty is wow, her face reminds us of the old natural beauty with no fillers or surgeries.”

Many social media users commented on Theilvig’s “exceptional beauty,” inside and out.

“Beauty is not just about looks, but about a strong, confident personality, and this beauty embodies these in every detail,” wrote X user @alzhrany60092.

“Congratulations to this beauty, she makes history with her exceptional beauty,” wrote X user @zyz51618 in a translated post.

Other social media users called Theilvig as pretty “as a Barbie,” with numerous commenters comparing Theilvig to the iconic doll.

Dressed in a pink glittering gown, the 21-year-old from Soborg was crowned by Miss Universe 2023 Sheynnis Palacios from Nicaragua, in Mexico City on Sunday.

Crafted by Jewelmer, the crown features golden South Sea pearls, the national gem of the Philippines. Named the “Lumiere de l’Infini) tiara, the crown displays a radiant sunburst motif at its heart.

First runner-up was Chidimma Adetshina, a law student representing Nigeria, followed by Maria Fernanda Beltran of Mexico, Suchata Chuangsri of Thailand, and Ileana Marquez of Venezuela.

An avid traveller, Thielvig seems to enjoy visiting cities across the world — including Dubai in the UAE. In January 2023, she took to Instagram to post a picture of herself posing on a dune buggy in the vast deserts of Dubai. “

Adventure in the desert,” she captioned the post, along with a camel emoji.