Niqabi women speak out about the surge in mainstream face-covering

A hijab-wearing woman with a face mask. (File/AFP)
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Updated 12 May 2020
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Niqabi women speak out about the surge in mainstream face-covering

  • Voices from Saudi, Dubai, London, Pakistan, Kuwait and America discuss how the usage of face masks may impact how niqabs will be perceived in the future

DUBAI: “Bold looks coming out of the country that banned Muslim women from wearing burkas and niqabs,” tweeted US photographer William Vercetti in response to images of face masks on the Paris Fashion Week runways in February.

A few weeks later COVID-19 was classified as a pandemic by the World Health Organization and face masks went from “novelty” status to an everyday essential, even in countries where covering your face for religious reasons has been banned.

The double standard is glaring. While medical masks certainly serve a different purpose than niqabs do, it’s essentially the same amount of facial square footage being covered, by a similarly-shaped piece of cloth or other material.

The majority of Muslim women do not cover their faces but, with the rise of the global modest fashion revolution, there has been a movement to de-stigmatize not only hijabs, but niqabs too. There are niqabi Instagram personalities in London, Canada, the US Pakistan, the UAE and elsewhere. Saudi Arabia’s Amy Roko, with more than a million followers, is one of the most prominent. She recently starred in a campaign for Benefit Middle East.

While they may form a part of the cultural fabric in the Middle East, Belgium, Austria, Denmark and The Netherlands are some of the European nations that have outlawed face veils, in addition to Morocco, and the Canadian province of Montreal.

They are banned in some places for security and identification concerns in specific buildings and, in others, the ban is widespread and covers all public spaces.

Whether or not they live in a country with a niqab ban, Muslim women who cover their faces experience prejudice and persecution.

Marjaan Ali, a student from Madinah, was screamed at to “Go back to where you came from” when she visited a carnival in Texas. When landing in France she was told not only to remove her niqab – which is legally prohibited – but her hijab, too.

“When I calmly told him that I had read the law and it only banned face coverings, not head coverings, he turned red and let me go,” she told Arab News. “The whole time I was there, I walked through the streets of the small village we were staying in with my face uncovered, passing people with shawls wrapped around their faces for warmth. The irony of the situation did not elude me.”

Dubai resident Nadia Shafique has been wearing a niqab for 12 years, and is afraid to travel abroad, even to visit family. “I haven’t traveled West – although my brother is in the UK I haven’t mustered the courage to visit him. I have children and I have felt the responsibility of shielding them from anything negative or violent,” she told Arab News.

But now that covering your face has become the norm, some niqab-wearing women are optimistic that the overall resistance to face veils may lessen. “It should make (those opposed) re-evaluate and reconsider their ideas,” said Shafique, who hoped that the public rethinks how they view and treat niqabi women.

“I think that this gives everybody the opportunity to step into our shoes for once and experience it as somewhat ‘normal’ and as a necessity to whenever you step out,” Sarah Wazir, who wears a niqab and lives in Pakistan, told Arab News.

 




Portrait of Sarah Wazir. (Supplied)

Ali said that the arguments that were used to claim the niqab hindered social interaction, that it created an environment of negativity and hostility, were all false. “As we see everyone is perfectly able to communicate and interact positively even with face masks on.”

Naseema Begum, who lives in London, where Prime Minister Boris Johnson notoriously used the world “letterboxes” in reference to Muslim women who veil, pointed out the feasibility of performing everyday affairs with your face concealed. “If during this time people could go around business as usual, like shopping, banks, work, and public transport, while wearing face masks or covering their faces with bandanas, then why can’t we Muslims wear our veils for our religious beliefs?” she told Arab News.

While rulings against niqabs cite security as the main concern, Ali said that niqabi women did not pose a threat to society. “We happily take off our niqabs for identification purposes at banks, airports, and any other place that requires it.”

Rather than infringing on others’ rights, biases against niqabs seem to infringe on the rights of these women.

Kuwait-based Shugraa Iqbal stopped wearing her niqab after being denied education and work opportunities at US institutions. “I was asked so many times if I was willing to remove it, getting into university was difficult, and so was getting an internship,” she told Arab News. “I hope people will see us as independent women and not as women that are ‘oppressed’ who need saviors. Maybe, just maybe, what we wear and how much we cover will not affect our education, jobs and opportunities in the future.”

Begum said she had been unable to go for afternoon tea with her friends at The Ritz because niqab-wearing women were not allowed in the hotel or cafe. “Come on. The Ritz, in the heart of central London, in a very Arab-dominated area, is not allowing people to come in because they wear the veil!”

Once it’s safe to re-open, it’s possible that establishments such as The Ritz will enforce mandatory masking – or at the very least, certainly allow those wearing medical face masks to enter. It seems only logical that women who wear niqabs, with their noses and mouths covered, will also be permitted entry.

We may, as a society, grow desensitized to the sight of covered faces, but could the mass normalization of medical masks go so far as to help reduce religious prejudice?

“While I would like to say yes, I don’t think this will be the case,” Liz Bucar, religious ethicist, professor and author of Pious Fashion: How Muslim Women Dress, told Arab News. “Banning face veils in the West had been about gendered Islamophobia. It’s not really about covering faces … I think most non-Muslims will not make the connection that face-veiling for religious reasons and public health reasons both depend on ideas about the common good, and that they are both motivated by ethical concerns, even if those concerns are of course different. At least, that is a connection they won’t make without actually learning more about religious modesty.”


Em Sherif Art Foundation reimagines global restaurants as cultural hubs

Updated 29 June 2025
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Em Sherif Art Foundation reimagines global restaurants as cultural hubs

DUBAI: With 24 outposts around the world, the minds behind Lebanese restaurant Em Sherif are keenly aware of their responsibility when it comes to sharing the country’s culinary culture with international audiences.

Now, they are taking things one step further with the launch of the Em Sherif Art Foundation that aims to provide increased visibility for artists through restaurants — in Doha, Monaco, London, Paris and Dubai, among other cities — which are being reimagined as cultural hubs.

Earlier this year, the Em Sherif Cafe in Paris showcased the work of Lebanese photographer Ziad Antar, and part of the initiative sees diners at all Em Sherif locations presented with three menus — a food menu, a drinks menu and an art menu — inviting guests to engage with the evolving story of contemporary Lebanese art.

'Kiev' (2024) by Ziad Antar at Em Sherif Cafe in Paris. (Supplied)

Em Sherif CEO and co-founder of the art foundation, Dani Chakour, spoke to Arab News about the cultural initiative.

“The art menu is not intended for commercial or financial purposes. Rather, it serves as a curated catalogue that showcases the artworks currently on display,” he said.

The decision to focus exclusively on Lebanese artists was intentional, Chakour added.

'Potato Portraits' (2025) by Ziad Antar at Em Sherif Cafe in  Paris. (Supplied)

“In Lebanon, it is often the private sector that drives meaningful cultural and artistic initiatives, as government support for the arts remains limited. Through this foundation, we aim to be an added value for our artists, helping them gain the visibility and recognition they deserve on a global scale.

“We need active public-sector involvement: We need more art fairs, modern infrastructure, supportive tariffs and dedicated museums. Without this foundational support, our artists will continue to be overlooked, despite their remarkable talent,” he said.

Chakour, who has a personal collection of more than 600 artworks, spotlighted celebrated names in the international art industry who he says benefited from working abroad.

“Huguette Caland, Gibran Khalil Gibran, Etel Adnan, Mona Hatoum, Walid Raad, Yvette Ashkar, Amin Maalouf, they are some of Lebanon’s most celebrated names. But what do they all have in common? They each spent the majority of their careers abroad, in environments that offered the right ecosystems … this is not a reflection of a lack of talent in Lebanon. On the contrary, it’s a reflection of what’s missing structurally; the institutional support, the infrastructure, the public funding, the museums, the cultural policies and the global exposure.

“At Em Sherif Art Foundation, we’re driven by a mission to help bridge that gap — to create opportunities within and beyond Lebanon so that our artists don’t need to leave home in order to rise,” Chakour said, noting that showcases by artists Christine Safa, Willy Aractengi, Ayman Baalbaki, Hussein Madi and Bibi Zogbe will be hosted in the coming months.


Palestinian solidarity takes center stage at Glastonbury

Updated 29 June 2025
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Palestinian solidarity takes center stage at Glastonbury

DUBAI: Glastonbury Festival 2025 is making headlines not just for its music, but for the powerful pro-Palestinian messages echoing across its stages and crowds.

Irish rap group Kneecap drew one of the festival’s largest crowds at the West Holts Stage. Dozens of Palestinian flags flew in the crowd as the show opened with an audio montage of news clips referring to the band’s critics and legal woes.

Mo Chara of Irish rap group Kneecap wearing a keffiyeh at Glastonbury festival. (AFP)

Between high-energy numbers that had fans forming a large mosh pit, the band members — sporting keffiyehs — led the audience in chants of “Free Palestine” and “Free Mo Chara.” They also aimed an expletive-laden chant at UK Prime Minister Keir Starmer, who has said he didn’t think it was “appropriate” for Kneecap to play Glastonbury.

One member wore a T-shirt emblazoned with “We Are All Palestine Action,” referencing the direct-action network that targets arms factories supplying Israel.

Earlier that day, punk duo Bob Vylan also stirred controversy with a performance that included the chant “Death to the IDF.” The statement has prompted a police investigation and sparked a broader debate over the limits of free speech in live performance.

Across the festival, Palestinian flags were visible in every direction — raised by artists, waved in the crowd, and printed on T-shirts and posters. Activist installations, including a projection mapping Gaza’s destruction, drew foot traffic near the Apocalypse Museum area, while several artists circulated an open letter calling for an immediate ceasefire.


Amira Al-Zuhair walks for AWGE in Paris

Updated 29 June 2025
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Amira Al-Zuhair walks for AWGE in Paris

DUBAI/PARIS: Saudi French model Amira Al-Zuhair hit the runway at the AWGE show as part of Paris Men's Fashion Week.

The 24-year-old model showed off an ensemble featuring a trench coat  layered over a white vest and tartan-style miniskirt by A$AP Rocky’s label.

Amira Al-Zuhair hit the runway at the AWGE show. (Getty Images)

Rapper-designer A$AP Rocky’s second fashion show was attended by his long-term partner Rihanna, who sat front row with their son Riot. His sophomore collection, titled “Obligatory Clothing,” was just (about) how you take the simple uniform or the purpose of a uniform, and how people correlate that to profession, lifestyle and everything,” Rocky said after the show, according to WWD.

The show was a riot of color, with its precision tailoring praised by a number of fashion critics.

Rihanna sat front row with her son Riot. (Getty Images)

It came as colors ran wild and silhouettes softened at Paris Men's Fashion Week, which ended Sunday, as designers brought a rare breath of fresh air to a gloomy fashion climate.

Despite the economic turbulence affecting the luxury sector, this Fashion Week was a “shot of creativity that felt incredibly good,” Alice Feillard, men's buying director at Galeries Lafayette, told AFP.

The Spring/Summer 2026 season “is much more creative than the previous ones, which were a bit duller”, said Adrien Communier, the fashion editor at GQ France.

Both experts observed a more relaxed vibe, with Feillard pointing to “good humor” and “optimism,” while Communier noted a “lighter mood.”

“With so many debuts, there was a sense of renewal. And so, I found that people were more curious,” he added.

After a notable women's show in March, Julian Klausner made waves Thursday with his first menswear show for Dries Van Noten, while Jonathan Anderson's long-awaited debut at Dior drew applause on Friday.

A renewed burst of creativity lit up the runways, most visibly through bold color choices. Brown tones and pastels made way for a richer, more saturated palette for next summer.

Saint Laurent opened the week with violet, navy, orange and moss green, while Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton channeled Indian motifs and hues.

Dries Van Noten made a splash with bold fuchsia and blood red, while Kenzo exploded with candy pink, aquatic blue and chick yellow.

 


Hourglass Cosmetics expands into Saudi Arabia with vegan, purpose-driven line

Updated 28 June 2025
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Hourglass Cosmetics expands into Saudi Arabia with vegan, purpose-driven line

DUBAI: A little while ago, I attended a masterclass for Hourglass Cosmetics in Dubai. As someone who does not wear much makeup — I do not own foundation or even basic tools — I was curious to see whether this much-talked-about brand could change my mind. 

As the class unfolded and the makeup artist demonstrated how to create their signature “dewy” look, I wondered: Is this brand for someone like me? After the session, I browsed the range, got shade-matched, and tested a few brushes. A few days later, I received a curated selection of cult favourites: the Airbrush Primer, Skin Tint, a clump-free mascara, a richly pigmented liquid blush, a volumising glossy balm, and other treats.

I decided to put it all to the test. The results surprised me. I did not look overly made up — my sun spots were still visible beneath the tint — but my skin looked fresh, and my cheeks had that light, rosy flush you usually only get from a good mood or better lighting. 

The next test was longevity. I applied the entire routine at 5 a.m. before a flight to Rome. By 11 p.m. local time, my friends were amazed that my makeup was still intact. It was time for a purge — ditch the old products and restock with what really worked. So I decided to learn more about the Hourglass brand; its philosophy, iconic products and their foray into the Gulf Cooperation Council region, especially Saudi Arabia. 

Founded by beauty entrepreneur Carisa Janes in 2004, Hourglass was born to challenge the traditional idea of luxury beauty. “From the outset, my vision was to merge innovation with integrity,” Janes tells Arab News. “I wanted to prove that you don’t have to compromise on ethics to experience exceptional quality.” 

This philosophy has been at the heart of Hourglass since day one, setting them apart in an industry that, at the time, was not prioritizing cruelty-free beauty at a luxury level. The brand quickly carved a niche for itself by combining high-performance formulations with a cruelty-free philosophy — something rarely seen in luxury beauty at the time — and eventually made the bold move to go fully vegan. “At the time, luxury beauty was so often synonymous with indulgence, with little consideration for animal welfare. I could not accept that performance had to come at the cost of compassion.” 

Every product they create is designed to push boundaries, both in innovation and impact. The Unlocked Collection, for instance, is rooted in the brand’s commitment to animal welfare, with 5 percent of net profits supporting the Nonhuman Rights Project’s work to secure fundamental rights for animals. “The collection embodies the fusion of luxury and performance, offering high-impact, radiant formulas that feel as indulgent as they are purposeful,” Janes said.

Equally groundbreaking is the Ambient Lighting Collection, inspired by the transformative power of light. “I wanted to develop powders that could recreate the most flattering lighting effects — whether it is the soft glow of candlelight or the diffused radiance of golden hour,” she says. The result was a finely milled, photoluminescent formula that enhances the complexion in an almost ethereal way — subtle yet transformative, and now one of Hourglass’s most iconic innovations. 

A staple among celebrity makeup artists and celebrities alike, the brand is now fast extending its presence within the GCC, especially the UAE and Saudi Arabia. 

Janes said the Kingdom “is an incredibly exciting market. There’s a distinct appreciation for artistry, luxury, and innovation — qualities that are intrinsic to Hourglass.” 

As Saudi consumers increasingly seek brands that align with their values, Hourglass’s cruelty-free, vegan philosophy feels especially timely. Janes notes that Hourglass has seen strong momentum across Europe, the Middle East and Africa, and the expansion into Saudi Arabia is a natural step in their global strategy. 

“The Kingdom represents a key market in our global expansion, with a beauty industry that continues to grow at a remarkable pace,” she said.

Janes’ ultimate vision for Hourglass is to redefine luxury beauty for the future — to prove that artistry, innovation and ethics can coexist at the highest level. “I hope that when people think of Hourglass, they don’t just see a brand, but a movement — one that proves luxury can be transformative, not just for those who wear it, but for the world at large.” 


Sofia Carson wears Elie Saab at Biarritz Film Festival

Updated 28 June 2025
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Sofia Carson wears Elie Saab at Biarritz Film Festival

DUBAI: American actor and singer Sofia Carson attended the third Nouvelles Vagues International Biarritz Film Festival this week, wearing a black ensemble by Lebanese designer Elie Saab.

Her outfit featured a long-sleeved dress with a bow-tied collar and layered ruffle detailing along the sleeves and bodice. The skirt was tiered and embellished with black sequins and sheer mesh panels, creating a structured silhouette with varied textures. She completed the look with black pointed-toe heels and diamond earrings.

Held annually in the southwestern coastal town of Biarritz, the festival highlights emerging voices in global cinema and focuses on innovation in storytelling.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Sofia Carson (@sofiacarson)

Carson appeared on the red carpet alongside other guests and filmmakers as the festival launched its week-long program of screenings, panels, and industry discussions.

She later shared photos from the event on Instagram, writing: “Honored to be a part of a jury of extraordinary young artists, filmmakers, directors, lovers of cinema. Merci @festivalnouvellesvagues for celebrating the power, responsibility, and artistry of youth in cinema.”

Carson has long been a fan of Saab’s designs. Earlier this month she showcased multiple looks by the couturier during Netflix-related events.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Sofia Carson (@sofiacarson)

In the lead-up to Netflix Tudum 2025: The Live Event, the platform’s global celebration of fandom and storytelling, Carson wore a white ensemble featuring a tailored blazer, wide-leg trousers and a matching shirt.

On a separate occasion she wore an all-black outfit composed of wide-leg trousers and a sheer top with cape-like sleeves, tied at the neck with a long scarf. Both outfits were from Saab’s Ready-to-Wear Pre-Fall 2025 Collection.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Sofia Carson (@sofiacarson)

She appeared in one of the designer’s ensembles in March while promoting her latest project, “The Life List.” She also wore a green dress from the designer’s Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2023–2024 Collection during an appearance on “CBS Mornings” in New York. The look featured an oversized floral embellishment at the neck in shades of yellow and white, styled with deep green knee-high boots and a matching bag.

Later that same week, she wore another look by the designer, a black dress with a fitted silhouette and structured shoulders. She styled it with long leather gloves, sheer black stockings and pointed-toe pumps.