Saudi street style book ‘Under the Abaya’ celebrates women’s empowerment
Launched on the anniversary of the landmark decision to allow women to drive in Saudi Arabia, the book sheds light on the Kingdom’s unique fashion scene
Updated 29 June 2020
Rebecca Anne Proctor
DUBAI: Saudi Arabia’s first-ever street style book launched by Saudi entrepreneur and industry leader Marriam Mossalli, “Under the Abaya: Street Style from Saudi Arabia,” is groundbreaking in its exposure of the Kingdom’s unique fashion scene, still little-known outside the country. While the first edition offered an introduction to progressive Saudi women, the second sheds light on their challenges and aspirations through the lens of fashion.
The book launched June 24, the same day Saudi Arabia lifted the ban on women driving one year prior.
“What better day to launch our book than on the anniversary of this historic move toward gender equality,” said Mossalli. “It is a celebration of female empowerment in its purest form, as it allows the women of Saudi Arabia the opportunity to narrate their own stories through authentic representations of themselves.”
Fatima Al-Bloushi photographed by Essa El-Dobisi. Supplied
Since founding Niche Arabia in 2011, a luxury consultancy firm based in Saudi Arabia, Mossalli has become one of the Kingdom’s most recognized female voices in fashion and luxury.
“What I love most about ‘Under the Abaya’ is that it is the definition of women supporting women,” Mossalli said. “A hundred percent of the proceeds will go toward granting scholarships so that young women can pursue their dreams of higher education.”
LUX, one of Unilever’s largest beauty and personal care brands, is the exclusive sponsor of the book.
“LUX is honored to partner with ‘Under the Abaya’ to shine a spotlight on inspiring Saudi women,” said Severine Vauleon, global brand vice president, LUX. “We believe in the undying spirit of women everywhere who take pride and pleasure in their beauty and never let judgments hold them back; a woman’s beauty is also an expression of her spirit, of who she is, of what she thinks, does and accomplishes.”
Marriam Mossalli and Mariam Zahid. Supplied
Saudia Arabia’s first female Ambassador to the United States, Princess Reema bint Bandar Al-Saud, authored the forward of the book. Princess Reema has long been dedicated to women’s empowerment in the Kingdom.
In 2013, she founded Alf Khair, a social enterprise dedicated to providing access to opportunities for Saudi women by offering them professional guidance. She also co-founded the Zahra Breast Cancer Awareness Association.
“‘Under the Abaya’ encapsulates a desire to tell stories, and access or create opportunities,” writes Princess Reema in the foreword. “The project’s principles are an example of women supporting women.”
Jory Al-Maimam shot by Ekleel Al Faris courtesy of Hindamme. Supplied
The role of women has become a key feature of Saudi Vision 2030. The plan aims to have women play a greater role in society and seeks to raise female participation in the workforce from 22 percent to 30 percent.
“Young women are under a lot of pressure due to social media and expectations,” said Haya Sawan, a Saudi fitness trainer and healthy lifestyle enthusiast who is profiled in the book. “We as women should ensure that we raise our daughters in a way so as to encourage their inner beauty and cultivate their skills. We need to embrace the younger generations and accept them for who they are and not for what is required or expected of them. Be strong and beautiful.”
Saudi actress, director and writer Fatima Al-Banawi, who also features in the "Under the Abaya," spoke about the judgments placed on women: "I believe we need to talk about these things and be aware of them because these experiences shape us, whether we are the ones judging or receiving judgement. Judgments come from incomplete stories and as humans, we love making stories."
Saudi Arabia unveils major film production hub in Riyadh
Al-Hisn Big Time Studios to boost local, regional content creation with advanced production resources
Project area covers 300,000 sq. meters and includes a production village with metalworking and carpentry workshops, as well as costume design facilities
Updated 14 sec ago
Rahaf Jambi
RIYADH: Saudi Arabia unveiled Al-Hisn Big Time Studios in Riyadh, a groundbreaking facility aimed at boosting the television and film production industry across the Middle East.
Chairman of the General Entertainment Authority Turki Al-Sheikh inaugurated the facility west of the Saudi capital.
Al-Hisn Big Time Studios, built in a remarkably short period of 120 days, features seven studio buildings covering an area of 10,500 sq. meters.
The total project area covers 300,000 sq. meters and includes a production village with metalworking and carpentry workshops, as well as costume design facilities.
Additional amenities include luxurious suites for VIPs, offices for film production, and fully equipped editing rooms, all creating an ideal work environment that enhances production efficiency.
Al-Sheikh said: “Al-Hisn Big Time Studios will become a stronghold for producing Arab and international content, particularly Saudi productions.”
He further emphasized the importance of local content consumption, saying: “Approximately 65 percent of the content consumed in the region is from Saudi Arabia.”
Al-Sheikh also highlighted the collaborative nature of the project, mentioning that productions will take place at various locations, including Diriyah Jax, Sony Studios, AlUla, and MBC Studios in Al-Nargis.
He added: “We constructed these state-of-the-art facilities in just four months, showcasing our commitment to rapid development.”
Minister of Information Salman Al-Dossary remarked on the opportunities presented by Al-Hisn Big Time Studios, saying: “You will not find a better place than this in the Arab world.”
He praised the integration of government agencies, stating: “Our collective efforts ensure the success of the project, positioning it as a beacon for the film industry.”
The studios aim to provide a comprehensive platform for film and television production, offering creative resources in one location.
“This integration will not only reduce costs and save time but also provide access to cutting-edge global technologies,” Al-Sheikh said, highlighting the studio’s potential to enhance competitiveness in the international market.
In the studios, visitors can explore a museum featuring vintage cameras alongside films shot with them. There are also costume rooms where fashion designers craft outfits for various productions.
Additionally, a dedicated building is set aside for pre-production work. The facility has several production studios, with many Saudi companies collaborating on site, from camera manufacturers to actors, all working together to bring creative visions to life.
Nawaf Almutairi, a founding partner of One Shot drone company, is one of the industry professionals using the studios. He expressed enthusiasm about the opportunities presented by Al-Hisn, saying: “This facility allows us to push the boundaries of aerial photography and filmmaking.”
His company has completed various projects in Saudi Arabia, notably contributing to the third installment of the film “Welad Rizk” with their custom-built drones.
Almutairi said: “We are excited to create innovative content that showcases the beauty of our country."
Abdulrahman Alnafisah, general manager and co-founder of Nebras Films, said: “Saudi Arabia has seen significant advancements in the media and film production sector, fostering growth both locally and regionally. In this transformative landscape, Nebras Films played a key role in the launch of Al-Hisn Big Time Studios, marking a pivotal moment in the evolution of Saudi cinema.
“This initiative underscores Nebras Films’ commitment to bolstering the Saudi film industry and nurturing local talent by creating a professional environment that aligns with international standards.”
Clinique La Prairie CEO talks ‘personalization’ of luxury healthcare ahead of Saudi opening
Updated 05 November 2024
Saffiya Ansari
DUBAI: Switzerland-based luxury healthcare resort Clinique La Prairie is set to open in Saudi Arabia’s Amaala wellness retreat next year, with CEO Simone Gibertoni telling Arab News “personalization is fundamental.”
With just 50 rooms, the healthcare resort will offer guests a holistic approach to health and wellness, combining evidence-based medicine with unique well-being, nutrition and movement plans, according to its website.
With just 50 rooms, the healthcare resort will offer guests a holistic approach to health and wellness, combining evidence-based medicine with unique well-being, nutrition
and movement plans, according to its website. (Supplied)
“If you want to be really personalized, you need to cater (for) a very small number of clients,” Gibertoni explained, adding: “Another very important point for me is always to underline the fact that our role is not just to give information, but to change people … intervention must be focused and must be very personalized.”
While the Swiss flagship boasts picturesque views and state of the art facilities, he insists: “The view of the lake is not enough, the nice food is not enough … there must be this idea that you feel better, you feel (like) a kind of new person and that’s why people are coming back.”
The Red Sea resort is not the first outside Switzerland; Clinique La Prairie Anji, on a tea plantation 180km west of Shanghai, China, opened its doors in 2024. Meanwhile, Dubai’s One & Only One Za’abeel hotel is home to a Clinique La Prairie Longevity Hub, billed as a day center rather than a resort-style experience.
When it comes to why the brand selected Saudi Arabia for such an investment, Gibertoni pointed to an alignment in healthcare philosophies.
“For such a big investment in Saudi, we are going to have only 50 rooms. In China, it’s another huge investment and we have only 29 rooms. It’s not easy to find the developer which is able to accept our philosophy and this is happening in Saudi Arabia,” he said.
The CEO also referred to long-term clients from the Gulf who have travelled to the European clinic for decades. The lure of a hub a little closer to home could be another reason for the brand’s latest venture.
Located on Saudi Arabia’s north-western coast, the Amaala resort will feature 30 brands, with Clinique La Prairie billed as one of the anchor offerings.
Last week, Gibertoni was in Dubai to announce the Longevity Fund, an endeavor to identify companies that “revolutionize the landscape of aging, health, and wellbeing.”
The fund will focus on driving science-based advancements in longevity under four banners — medical care, nutrition, movement and well-being.
Gibertoni explained: “Whenever there is a company with an innovation which is on the way to be ready for the market, this company always approaches us. So our question was ‘how can we be more impactful and not only introduce this technology to Clinique La Prairie … but can we also help this company to grow?”
Exploring innovation at ‘Behind the Curtains: Scenes of Craft’ exhibition in Saudi Arabia
Step backstage to experience the creative processes of 10 renowned design studios, where failure fuels creativity
Updated 05 November 2024
Hind Al-Khunaizi
DHAHRAN: As a part of the annual Tanween conference at the King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture, the “Behind the Curtains: Scenes of Craft” exhibition stands out as a captivating exploration of creativity, resilience and innovation in the world of design.
The exhibition, aligned with the Tanween 2024 theme “Fail Forward,” invites visitors to embrace the beauty of setbacks as vital stepping stones in the creative process.
The exhibition, aligned with the Tanween 2024 theme “Fail Forward,” invites visitors to embrace the beauty of setbacks as vital stepping stones in the creative process.
(Courtesy of Ithra Studios)
Curated and designed in collaboration with Isola Studio, the exhibition showcases the works of 10 internationally acclaimed studios specializing in crafts, circular design and material research, and is on until Nov. 6.
“The idea of staging the exhibition led us to the name ‘Behind the Curtains’ because we want to show what’s behind what you see, through a theater approach,” Gabriele Cavallaro, co-founder of Isola Studio, told Arab News.
“We asked studios to display their latest projects, not just the final results, but also the process, including failures, trials, and broken pieces. This highlights that reaching successful design involves going through mistakes and challenges.”
Curated and designed in collaboration with Isola Studio, the exhibition showcases the works of 10 internationally acclaimed studios specializing in crafts, circular design and material research.
(Courtesy of Ithra Studios)
Each studio provided a behind-the-scenes glimpse into their artistic processes, sharing inspirations, prototypes, and materials that did not make the final cut. This transparency highlighted the essential nature of experimentation in design.
At the heart of the exhibition lies an interactive workshop area, where visitors can partake in hands-on activities including sketching, molding, and experimenting with various materials, allowing them to experience the creative process firsthand.
This interactive component emphasizes that creativity is often a non-linear journey filled with exploration and discovery.
The “Fail Forward” theme runs throughout the exhibition, encouraging visitors to see failures as essential learning experiences. By sharing their struggles and lessons, the design studios inspire visitors to embrace their own creative challenges.
Cavallaro expressed his hopes for visitors, stating: “I want them to understand the importance of taking risks in life to achieve success.”
Lucy Liu shines in Zuhair Murad on Berlin red carpet
Updated 05 November 2024
Arab News
DUBAI: Actress Lucy Liu cut a striking figure at the Berlin premiere of her film “Red One,” wearing a head-turning gown by Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad.
Liu dazzled in a black velvet dress from Murad’s fall/winter couture collection, which featured a crystal-encrusted bodice adorned with looped net detailing.
She completed the look with Tamara Mellon heels and Roxanne Assoulin jewelry. Her hair was styled in a sleek chignon with delicate floral details.
Liu walked the red carpet alongside her fellow cast members, including Dwayne Johnson, Chris Evans, Kiernan Shipka, Bonnie Hunt, Kristofer Hivju, J.K. Simmons, and director Jake Kasdan.
“Red One” is an action-comedy film which sees Santa Claus (Simmons) go missing in mysterious circumstances. Tasked with saving Christmas, the North Pole’s head of security (Johnson) teams up with the world’s most notorious bounty hunter (Evans). Together, they embark on a globe-trotting adventure to locate and rescue Santa.
The film is set to premiere in Saudi Arabia on Nov. 7.
The unveiling of Murad’s fall/winter collection at Paris Fashion Week in June drew notable guests including Avril Lavigne and Ellie Goulding.
The designs emphasize his signature craftsmanship with luxurious fabrics like velvet, silk and lace, with pieces featuring intricate beadwork, sequins and embroidery.
With a color palette of bold blacks, deep reds, and metallic tones, accented by warm shades of bronze and copper, they exude a sense of sophistication and drama.
Silhouettes range from voluminous, sweeping gowns to sleek, form-fitting dresses, incorporating daring cutouts and striking necklines. One highlight on the runway was a shoulder-baring gown in powder red, with sequins on the bodice transforming into cascading feathers on the skirt.
Murad has dressed an impressive roster of A-list celebrities, including Jennifer Lopez, Beyonce, Taylor Swift, Celine Dion, Zendaya and Katy Perry.
Earlier this week, at the premiere of Netflix’s “Time Cut,” US actress and singer Madison Bailey wore a black off-the-shoulder sequined long-sleeved midi dress with cut-out detail from the designer’s ready-to-wear Fall 2024 collection.
DOHA: A three-month-long art and architecture exhibition in Doha featuring the works of renowned Pakistanis from the 1940s to the present highlights the South Asian nation’s diverse art scene and brings unique insights on the evolution of art and architecture in the region to a global audience.
Titled “Manzar,” which can be translated in Urdu to mean scene, view, landscape or perspective, the exhibition showcases over 200 paintings, drawings, photographs, videos, sculptures, installations, tapestries and miniatures from celebrated Pakistani artists. It has been organized by an Art Mill Museum team and will run at the National Museum of Qatar until January 31, 2025.
Pakistani Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif, Qatar’s Emir Sheikh Tamim ibn Hamad Al Thani and his sister, Sheikha Al Mayassa Al Thani, inaugurated the exhibition in Doha last week.
“Pakistan’s art scene is less well known in the world compared to other art scenes and for us art historians it is absolutely fascinating to be able to share it with the world,” Caroline Hancock, Senior Curator of Modern and Contemporary Art at the Art Mill Museum, told Arab News.
“We wanted to recount an expansive notion of this place, not limited by drawn and imposed borders, but true to the porosity and transnational interconnections of cultural expressions [in Pakistan].”
Pakistani Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif, Qatar’s Emir Sheikh Tamim ibn Hamad Al Thani and his sister, Sheikha Al Mayassa Al Thani visit ‘Manzar’ exhibition in Doha, Qatar, on October 31, 2024. (almayassahamad/X)
Zarmeene Shah, Director of Graduate Studies at the Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture (IVS) in Karachi, the co-curator for Manzar, described the exhibition as “exceptionally significant.”
“Because we never see such a body of noteworthy work come together in a single space, as most of these artworks live in private collections, inaccessible to the public, which is why Manzar offers an incomparable opportunity for audiences to engage with these masterpieces, and to explore how art and architecture have responded to, and reshaped, the nation’s social and political narratives,” Shah told Arab News.
“Our aim is to start a conversation and not provide a definitive showcase.”
The installation in the front comprises a fabric and gold-plated steel pins titled "You Have Set Me Apart" (2017) by Aisha Khali, and at the back, right, shows a stitching collage with dye ink on fabric, titled "Invisible Border" (2019) by artist Khadim Ali displayed at the "Manzar" exhibition at National Museum of Qatar in Doha. (Kuzey Kaya Buzlu)
The exhibition, designed by eminent Pakistani architect Raza Ali Dada, a managing partner at the leading Pakistani firm Nayyar Ali Dada & Associates, integrates architecture and art to chart the thought processes, resistance struggles and achievements of the artistic and architectural community of the South Asian nation.
The exhibit runs thematically and opens with works by pioneering artists such as Abdur Rahman Chughtai and Zainul Abedin, who produced stellar works of art during British colonial rule from 1858-1947 and continued after Pakistan was born as a separate nation out of united India.
The image shows a video installation titled "Disruption as Rapture" by Shahzia Sikander (2016), displayed at the "Manzar" exhibition at National Museum of Qatar in Doha. (Kuzey Kaya Buzlu)
Indeed, the partition of 1947 is a significant theme for many Pakistani artists at the exhibition, including Anna Molka Ahmed, Zarina, and Bani Abidi. The exhibition also showcases the aesthetic experiments of artists such as Shakir Ali, Zubeida Agha, Murtaja Baseer, and Sadequain, whose deeply personal modes of expression are rooted in the vibrant urban centers of Karachi, Lahore, Dhaka, and the twin cities of Rawalpindi and Islamabad, which embody diverse artistic responses to historical and cultural shifts in the region.
Zahoor ul Akhlaq, Imran Mir, and Rasheed Araeen — known for their multidisciplinary approaches, involvement in educational initiatives, and theoretical writings challenging Western art history and traditions at home and internationally — are also featured, as are influential figures of different generations such as Salima Hashmi, Quddus Mirza, Lala Rukh, Aisha Khalid and Durriya Kazi.
The image shows fifteen steel pyramids by Zahoor ul Akhlaq called "Untitled (circa 1975)", displayed at the "Manzar" exhibition at Qatar Museums in Doha, Qatar. (Kuzey Kaya Buzlu)
Important diaspora artists whose work is part of the exhibition include Naiza Khan in London, Ruby Chishti, Huma Bhabha, Iftikhar and Elizabeth Dadi and Salman Toor in New York, Bani Abidi in Berlin, Basir Mahmood in Amsterdam, Seher Shah in Barcelona and Khadim Ali in Sydney.
The image shows "The Orientalist" (2007) installation (left) by Huma Bhabha and "Memory of a Pink" (2012) (right) by Huma Mulji displayed at the "Manzar" exhibition at Qatar Museums in Doha, Qatar. (Kuzey Kaya Buzlu)
The exhibition also sheds light on significant contributions by foreign architects who reshaped Pakistan’s landscape and articulated the ambitions of its institutions through landmark projects. These include French artist Michel Ecochard, who designed the first university in the southern city of Karachi, and Greek artist Konstantínos Doxiádis, the lead architect who planned Pakistan’s capital Islamabad.
Manzar also explores Pakistan’s engagement with the debate on regionalism in architecture through the works of influential architects like Nayyar Ali Dada and Kamil Khan Mumtaz from Lahore, alongside Yasmeen Lari, Habib Fida Ali, and Arif Hasan from Karachi.
The exhibition extends to the courtyard of the Palace of Sheikh Abdullah Al Thani with a range of outdoor and indoor installations, along with a film and video program.
Renowned architect Yasmeen Lari, who works in the intersection of architecture and social justice, has exhibited bamboo shelters designed as emergency open-source housing for flood victims, in collaboration with the Heritage Foundation of Pakistan.
The image shows bamboo prefabricated octa green structure displayed for the "Manzar" exhibition in the courtyard of the Palace of Sheikh Abdullah Al Thani at the National Museum of Qatar in Doha. (Kuzey Kaya Buzlu)
Additionally, the art collective Karachi LaJamia is showcasing a project addressing the environmental crisis in the province of Sindh. Many of these contemporary projects emphasize the themes of sustainability and ecology, reflecting a growing urgency to address environmental issues through art and architecture.
The image shows "Flowers: Gardens of Paradise" (2021) by Hamra Abbas at the "Manzar" exhibition at Qatar Museums in Doha, Qatar. (Kuzey Kaya Buzlu)
“Manzar is an exhibition that truly reflects how everyone from the discourse of art and architecture seem in constant conversation, in dialogue about the environment, either the political environment or the ecological environment,” Karachi-based architect Marvi Mazhar said during a panel discussion, saying Manzar had brought into the spotlight the political and ecological changes the region has undergone through the decades.
“We have always faced heartbreaks, be it the partition, or the formation of East Pakistan [present day Bangladesh] or other movements such as the politics of land and water. Yet historically we collectively ride the tide, through forging diverse practices and sensitivity to their connection to the wider history of modern and contemporary art.”
The exhibit also includes works from the neo-miniature painting movement that emerged at Lahore’s prestigious National College of Arts (NCA) at the start of the 1990s, that revisited traditional techniques and subjects and is showcased through important works by artists like Shahzia Sikander, Imran Qureshi, Hamra Abbas and Rashid Rana.
