Gothic mystery: How many of Europe’s favorite buildings came from the East

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A view of Westminster Abbey. (Shutterstock)
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Updated 22 August 2020
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Gothic mystery: How many of Europe’s favorite buildings came from the East

  • New book opens door into lost history of Arab and Islamic design
  • Darke offers insights into the scale of culture that was imported from East to West

LONDON: It is the architectural style that gave Europe some of its best-loved and most beautiful buildings, including the Duomo in Milan and Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris.

But a new book reveals how Gothic architecture — and many of the dramatic landmarks it inspired — were heavily influenced by Arab and Islamic cultures.

“Stealing from the Saracens,” launched in London on Thursday, details the debt that many iconic European buildings owe to Islamic and Arab design.   

Diana Darke, an author and Middle East cultural expert, said the reaction to the fire at Notre-Dame cathedral in April 2019 inspired her to write about the topic.

People were saying that the cathedral was “a great symbol of French identity,” Darke said. “But this building is not nearly as European as they think.”

Darke told Arab News: “The reaction to the fire made me angry. It prompted me to put out a tweet the morning after saying Notre-Dame’s ancestor was standing on a hilltop in Idlib province, and I attached a photo of Syria’s Qalb Lozeh, a fifth-century church.”

She then wrote a blog about the subject that went viral. It featured in the Shanghai Times, newspapers in India and across the world.

Darke said she still had no plan to write a book on Gothic architecture of the Middle Ages borrowing heavily from Islamic and Arab heritage.

However, on a visit to Cordoba in 2019, she was shocked to see the level of cultural appropriation at the Mezquita and the Syrian origins of the World Heritage Site ignored.

“If you didn’t know, you could honestly be unaware that it had originally been a mosque,” Darke said.

The trip was a turning point and the author began writing “Stealing from the Saracens” to put the record straight.

A derogatory term used by Christian writers in Europe during the Middle Ages to refer to Arab Muslims, the noun “saracens” comes from the Arabic verb “saraqa,” meaning to steal.

Saracens were seen as looters and thieves, leading to a double irony in the book’s title: Gothic cathedrals and churches actually adopted features influenced by the architecture of Arab Muslims, not the other way round.

Gothic architecture’s main characteristics are pointed arches and ribbed vaulting, Darke said. Both features, along with trefoil arches, are inspired by Islamic and Arab design.

Pointed and trefoil arches came to Europe from the Levant where Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock is situated.

The trefoil arch, with its three rounded lobes, “feeds perfectly into the Christian trinity and that’s why the Christians adopted that so readily,” Drake explained. 

“It fitted their symbolism perfectly. But it did not exist on any Christian building in Syria before the Umayyad dynasty — they definitely introduced that as an architectural form in their desert palaces scattered across Syria and Jordan.”

Pointed, trefoil and ogee arches, along with ribbed vaulting, can be seen in iconic London buildings such as the tower of Big Ben, Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey.

The trefoil, ogee and pointed arches of Westminster Abbey, as well as the twin tower flanking its monumental entrance, can be traced back to Islamic and Arab architecture, as the book illustrates using beautiful labelled pictures.

The Big Ben clock tower’s delicate finials and arcades of ogee arches can also be traced back to the Middle East, while St. Paul’s Cathedral’s double dome, clerestory windows and domed ceiling are also inspired by Arab and Islamic styles.

Darke offers insights into the scale of culture that was imported from East to West and how heavily Gothic architecture relied on buildings in the Middle East.

“Everything, except the flying buttresses that became necessary as bishops went into rivalry with each other, trying to build higher and higher cathedrals” was inspired by Middle Eastern architecture, she said.

Another key feature of Gothic architecture was the extensive use of stained glass.

“The glass in many early cathedrals came from Syria, and studies have been done in several key locations to trace its origins,” Darke said. 

Stained glass in Canterbury Cathedral and York Minister in England, and in Rouen Cathedral in France were found to have Islamic composition.

“They can tell because of the plant ash that was used,” Darke explained.

Readers of Darke’s book should not be surprised by Gothic architecture’s debt to Arab and Islamic culture — this was acknowledged by the man who designed St. Paul’s Cathedral.

“Modern Gothic, as it is called, is deduced from a different quarter; it is distinguished by the lightness of its work, by the excessive boldness of its elevations … such productions, so airy, cannot admit the heavy Goths for their author; how can be attributed to them a style of architecture, which was only introduced in the 10th century of our era?” wrote Sir Christopher Wren in the early 1700s. 

“From all the marks of the new architecture it can only be attributed to the Moors; or what is the same thing, to the Arabian or Saracens.”


Huda Kattan reclaims full ownership of Huda Beauty

Updated 03 June 2025
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Huda Kattan reclaims full ownership of Huda Beauty

DUBAI: Huda Kattan announced on Tuesday that she regained full ownership of Huda Beauty, the brand she founded in 2013, following the end of an eight-year partnership with private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners.

In 2017, TSG acquired a minority stake in Huda Beauty. As of 2025, Kattan has bought back that equity, making the brand fully independent once again and one of the few major beauty companies that is 100 percent founder-owned.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Huda (@huda)

“Taking back full ownership of Huda Beauty is a deeply very important moment for me,” said Kattan. “It says that while many of us dreamers have visions that we are told are too big or not possible to do alone, in actuality, you have all the power you need to change the world yourself! This brand was built on passion, creativity, and a desire to challenge the beauty industry. As we step into this new chapter, I’m more committed than ever to pushing boundaries, staying true to our roots, and showing up for our incredible community every step of the way.”

Kattan, who serves as founder and co-CEO, now leads the company alongside her husband Christopher Goncalo, also co-CEO, and her sister Alya Kattan, who oversees social strategy.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Huda (@huda)

Kattan is recognized as a Fortune 40 Under 40 honoree, one of Forbes’ Self-Made Women in the US, and one of Forbes’ 100 Most Powerful Businesswomen in the Middle East, as well as a TIME100 Impact Awards recipient and one of TIME’s 25 Most Influential People on the Internet. 

Her brand is known for a number of cult-favorite products, including the Easy Routine trio — Easy Primer, Easy Blur and Easy Bake Setting Powder.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by HUDA BEAUTY (@hudabeauty)

The brand has also received industry recognition for its product quality and innovation, earning accolades such as the Allure Best of Beauty Award, Elle Beauty Award and Cosmopolitan Beauty Award.

Just last week, the brand was ranked the world’s most popular beauty brand in the latest Cosmetify Q1 2025 Beauty Index.

The Cosmetify Index ranks beauty brands each quarter based on factors such as search volume, social engagement and brand visibility.

The brand topped the global list ahead of industry names such as Dior, Fenty Beauty, Rhode and Rare Beauty.

The brand also topped Cosmetify’s list in 2019 and 2020. 

In 2018, the company was valued at more than $1 billion by Forbes.


Saudi Arabia makes bold debut at SXSW London

Updated 03 June 2025
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Saudi Arabia makes bold debut at SXSW London

DUBAI: SXSW has taken off this week in London, with the Saudi Film Commission hosting a series of exciting cultural events.

Originating in Austin, Texas, this is the South by Southwest festival’s first edition in London — and notably, the Kingdom’s debut at the renowned indie film showcase, the Saudi Press Agency reported recently.

The Saudi Film Commission, in collaboration with SXSW, will present a curated selection of short films as a part of the “Saudi Film Nights” initiative.

Under the umbrella of Vision 2030, this program supports the Kingdom’s broader effort to diversify its economy, with particular emphasis on growing its entertainment sector.

The Kingdom’s pavilion, known as The Sadu House, will also spotlight contributions from the Music Commission, Culinary Arts Commission, and Fashion Commission, showcasing Saudi Arabia’s rich and diverse cultural landscape to a global audience.

In addition, the commission will host a panel discussion titled “Empowering the Film Industry in Saudi Arabia: From Vision to Reality.” The session will delve into cinema’s role in shaping national identity, preserving heritage, and advancing Saudi content as a powerful cultural tool.

Each day of the festival will feature a showcase of emerging Saudi talent.

On June 3, for example, SXSW attendees will experience a taste of Saudi hip-hop with performances by AZIZ.wav, SHANCOTY, and JEED — artists known for their unique blend of hip-hop flair, Afrobeat influences, and slow R&B tones.

On June 4, the Kingdom will shift gears and present its underground heavy music scene with performances by death metal bands Wasted Land, Sijeel, and Gimmix, marking a bold introduction of Saudi rock to the SXSW stage.

In addition to performances, festivalgoers can attend cultural panels featuring industry professionals from across the Arab world. Topics include female leadership, entrepreneurial ambition, and the evolution of Saudi Arabia’s film industry.

The opening panel on June 3 is titled “Vision 2030: Cultural Opportunities for Social and Economic Transformation,” which will explore the potential of Saudi Arabia’s cultural power.

Day two will feature a session “Fashion Future Platform: How Data Informs Investment Decisions,” offering a deep dive into the intersection of fashion and data-driven innovation.

Another session on day two, “WWD Female Empowerment – Challenges Facing Women Creatives in a Male-Dominated World,” will spotlight the obstacles and breakthroughs for women in the creative sector.

Finally, day three will have a panel “Sustainability – Challenges of Creating Green Fashion and Beauty in a Throwaway World,” which will underscore the need for sustainability in the industry.


Sofia Carson suits up for Netflix celebration

Updated 03 June 2025
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Sofia Carson suits up for Netflix celebration

DUBAI: US singer and actress Sofia Carson showed off several looks by Lebanese designer Elie Saab during Netflix festivities this week, marking the latest in a long list of red carpet moments where she has opted for a Lebanese creation.

Ahead of Netflix Tudum 2025: The Live Event — the streaming platform’s celebration of global fandom and storytelling — Carson appeared in a white ensemble featuring a tailored blazer, wide-leg trousers and a matching shirt.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by ELIE SAAB (@eliesaabworld)

On a separate occasion, she wore an all-black outfit composed of wide-leg trousers and a sheer top with cape-like sleeves, tied at the neck with a long scarf. Both outfits were from Saab’s Ready-to-Wear Pre-Fall 2025 collection.

For the live event, which she hosted, Carson first wore a taupe, floor-length gown by Stephane Rolland, made of pleated fabric with long draped sleeves and a high beaded neckline. Later, she switched to a black velvet tailored suit, styled with a white shirt, satin lapels, a black bow tie, a brooch and statement rings.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Sofia Carson (@sofiacarson)

Netflix Tudum 2025: The Live Event took place in Los Angeles at the sold-out Kia Forum and attracted thousands of online viewers as well as the live audience.

It included exclusive previews and performances by Lady Gaga and Hanumankind and featured appearances by cast members from series such as “ONE PIECE,” “Squid Game,” “Stranger Things” and “Wednesday,” as well as previews of upcoming films including “Frankenstein,” “Happy Gilmore 2,” “The Rip” and “Wake Up Dead Man: A Knives Out Mystery.”

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Sofia Carson (@sofiacarson)

The event was preceded by Netflix’s first fully interactive red carpet, which included immersive installations, fan pits and dedicated stages for photo opportunities tied to specific titles.

This was not the first time Carson, known for her roles in “My Oxford Year,” “Carry-On,” “Purple Hearts” and “Feel The Beat,” wore Elie Saab this year.

In March, she appeared in one of the designer’s ensembles while promoting her latest project, “The Life List.” She also wore a green dress from the designer’s Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2023–2024 collection during an appearance on “CBS Mornings” in New York City. The look featured an oversized floral embellishment at the neck in shades of yellow and white, styled with deep green knee-high boots and a matching bag.


He tries and triumphs: John Achkar’s ‘AAM JARRIB’ scores big in Abu Dhabi

Updated 02 June 2025
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He tries and triumphs: John Achkar’s ‘AAM JARRIB’ scores big in Abu Dhabi

ABU DHABI: Lebanese comedian John Achkar, who is on a world tour, touched down in the UAE capital on Sunday night as part of Abu Dhabi Comedy Season.

Achkar performed his latest special, “AAM JARRIB” (“Trying” in English), before upcoming stops in London, Paris and Sydney on a tour that wraps up in October.

“John has been trying new things for 34 years, and he’s still trying,” his grandmother sang in a video that opened the show.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by John Achkar (@johnachr)

At 34, Achkar claims he does not like trying new things — but as the show unfolds, it is clear he excels at turning the discomfort and quiet fulfillment of those rare efforts into comedy gold.

He paces the stage, piecing together absurd real-life misadventures — a botched sailing trip or an outrageously inappropriate skydiving incident — into hilarious anecdotes.

At one point, Achkar calls out what he jokingly dubs a modern epidemic — ADHD — which he says has become a socially accepted excuse to dodge plans. Fittingly, his performance is a whirlwind of energy: Fast-paced, delightfully chaotic and entirely on brand.

True to form, Achkar’s commentary on Lebanon is bold but affectionate. He jokes that almost every restaurant blasts the internet-famous patriotic anthem “Lebanon Will Return,” even as the country teeters on the edge of war. The satire is sharp, never cynical.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by John Achkar (@johnachr)

Behind him, a detailed sketch of the Lebanese coastline hangs throughout the performance — a quiet yet unmistakable tribute to his identity.

The show ended on the perfect note as the same anthem he mocked earlier blasted through the speakers, with the crowd bursting into applause and laughter — a full-circle moment.

In “AAM JARRIB,” John Achkar does not just try — he soars. And the audience, just as energized as he is, soars with him.


Gigi Hadid marks launch of Havaianas line with new campaign

Updated 01 June 2025
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Gigi Hadid marks launch of Havaianas line with new campaign

DUBAI: US Palestinian Dutch supermodel Gigi Hadid has unveiled a new campaign with Brazilian footwear brand Havaianas.

The model, who launched a line with the flip flop label, stars in a vintage-inspired series of photographs. In the shots, she shows off slippers from her collection with the brand and is seen wearing retro outfits on a beach.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Havaianas (@havaianas)

Hadid celebrated the launch at a party in Altro Paradiso in New York last week.  At the event, she wore flip flops paired with a white tweed Marc Jacobs minidress, featuring vibrant scattered crystals.

The model is no stranger to making creative decisions and is also the founder of her own cashmere brand, Guest in Residence.

She launched her clothing label, which features soft, colorful knitwear, in September 2022.

“Over the last handful of years, I didn’t want to be backed into starting my own line just because there was an offer on the table or a deal to be made,” she wrote to her followers on Instagram at the time.

“The earliest days of Guest in Residence came about when I started to question the cashmere market, and those answers gave me a path,” she wrote.

“I believe that because of its sustainable qualities — natural and made to cherish and to pass down — cashmere is a luxury that should be more accessible.”

Earlier this year, Hadid celebrated her birthday party at Le Chalet in New York City.

Hadid entered the venue with her partner, Oscar nominee Bradley Cooper on April 25, and met up with her sister Bella Hadid, mother Yolanda Hadid, father Mohamed Hadid, Russian media personality Keni Silva and US actress Anne Hathaway, among others.

Gigi’s birthday was on April 23, and the internet was abuzz with celebrities, designers, family and friends who sent birthday wishes to the supermodel as she turned 30.