DAUR, SINDH: Winter is the sweetest season for sugar workers in Pakistan’s south, bringing a harvest and livelihood to its rural areas, and to South Asian dining tables one of the most beloved condiments — gur.
Gur, or jaggery, is made from sugarcane juice boiled to a sweet syrup, set, and later formed into dark yellow balls. They are the source of sweetness and flavor of many a comfort food in the Indian Subcontinent. Without gur, there is no jalebi, motichoor ladoo, let alone busri — the traditional butter bread of Sindh — or tahiri, a favorite sweet rice dish that is the region’s winter delight.
When the harvest season arrives to Daur in Shaheed Benazirabad district in the central part of Sindh, small production plants are installed at sugarcane fields to produce gur. Cane is cut, cleaned, and workers bring it for crushing to extract the juice.
Collected in large vessels, the liquid is then brought to the side for long heating on a furnace.
Sugar workers say that gur is “meetha” (sweet) and it brings “dihari” (wage), even though only during the harvest season that runs from December through January.
“For us laborers it is like ‘meethi dihari’ (sweet livelihood),” one of the men harvesting cane on the outskirts of Daur told Arab News.
More than 70 percent of the world’s jaggery is produced in South Asia, mainly in India and Pakistan. Although much healthier than processed sugar and indispensable for the cuisine that is popular across the globe, gur is produced mostly for local consumption.
If it travels abroad, it goes mostly to Gulf countries in the luggage of Pakistani expats missing the flavor of home, according to Muhammad Chuttal Khoso who owns an 15-acre sugarcane field near Daur and has been making gur for over three decades.
“Despite limited luggage allowed by airlines, expats are keen to carry gur during air travel creating some space sometimes extending to few kilograms to distribute as souvenirs to Pakistani friends there.”