Stitch in time: Saudi fashion dresses for the future

1 / 6
The Saudi Cup showcased traditional outfits, with the Ministry of Culture’s fashion commission encouraging a dress code that required racegoers to highlight their heritage. (Supplied)
2 / 6
Designers showcased their exclusive works, mixing the contemporary with the old. (Supplied)
3 / 6
Designers showcased their exclusive works, mixing the contemporary with the old. (Supplied)
4 / 6
Designers showcased their exclusive works, mixing the contemporary with the old. (Supplied)
5 / 6
Designers showcased their exclusive works, mixing the contemporary with the old. (Supplied)
6 / 6
Designers showcased their exclusive works, mixing the contemporary with the old. (Supplied)
Short Url
Updated 06 March 2021
Follow

Stitch in time: Saudi fashion dresses for the future

  • Traditional wear gets a modern makeover as designers keep the past alive

JEDDAH: As Saudi Arabia sets out to introduce its culture, history and social life to a global audience, fashion is finding it has a key role to play in the Kingdom’s “brand strategy.”

Traditional wear proudly worn by both Saudis and expats at the recent Saudi Cup showed how age-old cultural styles could find new life in a contemporary setting.
While fashions can reflect a specific era, they also can act as a transition to the future, with fabrics, cuts, motifs and embroidery designs, and even colors and layers, keeping the story alive.
The Saudi Cup showcased traditional outfits, with the Ministry of Culture’s fashion commission encouraging a dress code that required racegoers to highlight their heritage, and designers to showcase their exclusive works, mixing the contemporary with the old.
Although Western outfits dominate the world fashion market, Saudi Arabia is choosing to stay connected with its traditional dress.
Saudi designers are constantly introducing new trends in the way outfits are made or worn, finding inspiration in age-old styles or seeking to bring the traditional clothing of a region into the present.

HIGHLIGHTS

• Although Western outfits dominate the world fashion market, Saudi Arabia is choosing to stay connected with its traditional dress.

• Saudi designers are constantly introducing new trends in the way outfits are made or worn, finding inspiration in age-old styles or seeking to bring the traditional clothing of a region into the present.

• Mohammed Khoja, a fashion designer who uses traditional approaches in his contemporary work, believes that his collections help shed light on cultural elements that appeal to both local and international audiences. 

• International events, from Eid celebrations at Saudi missions across the globe to overseas university students celebrating an occasion, allow Saudis to don traditional clothing to represent their homeland.

• Omaima Kindassa, a Saudi designer and owner of a contemporary heritage boutique, said that events such as the Saudi Cup allowed Saudis to represent their own region and culture, as well as show the Kingdom’s rich heritage and diverse culture to the world.

• Princess Nourah Al-Faisal, the designer behind Nuun Jewels, hoped to represent the historical beauty and color of traditional Saudi clothing in a way that encouraged people to embrace and celebrate their culture.

Mohammed Khoja, a fashion designer who uses traditional approaches in his contemporary work, said: “Since the beginning of my fashion design career, cultural elements have appealed to me. I am particularly driven by being able to contribute in documenting and potentially giving cultural elements more importance.”
Khoja believes that his collections help shed light on cultural elements that appeal to both local and international audiences.




Traditional wear proudly worn by both Saudis and expats showed how age-old cultural styles could find new life in a contemporary setting.

The same elements have also helped him identify with his own contemporary identity, he said.
Omaima Kindassa, a Saudi designer and owner of a contemporary heritage boutique, said that events such as the Saudi Cup allowed Saudis to represent their own region and culture, as well as show the Kingdom’s rich heritage and diverse culture to the world.
“I’ve been designing and modernizing traditional Saudi wear for 10 years,” Kindassa told Arab News. “Now many younger designers are pursuing that as well because they have fallen in love with our heritage.”
She added: “If the current generation were to wear traditional clothes, they would find them overbearing and heavy, especially accessory-embellished designs and those adorned by stones. Modernizing these outfits makes them relevant to today’s generation and ensures our tradition keeps pace with fashion.”




The Saudi Cup showcased traditional outfits, with the Ministry of Culture’s fashion commission encouraging a dress code that required racegoers to highlight their heritage, and designers to showcase their exclusive works, mixing the contemporary with the old. (Supplied)

Kindassa specializes in traditional wear from the Kingdom’s regions but also modern clothing “that tell tales of the long past.”
“Each region offers its own rich heritage through its designs, from the geometric elegant shapes, the vibrant colors, the embroidery — it looks like a painting to admire,” she said.
International events, from Eid celebrations at Saudi missions across the globe to overseas university students celebrating an occasion, allow Saudis to don traditional clothing to represent their homeland.
Princess Nourah Al-Faisal, the designer behind Nuun Jewels, told Arab News that the Saudi Cup was a “great opportunity to present the variety, regionality and beauty that is Saudi culture.”


She was brought in as a consultant for the project, a link between the Saudi Cup and the Ministry of Culture, “to curate the event in terms of looks and feel.”
Princess Nourah said the idea to promote traditional Saudi fashion was not hers, but came from Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman.
The princess hoped to represent the historical beauty and color of traditional Saudi clothing in a way that encouraged people to embrace and celebrate their culture. She also wanted people to take ownership of their heritage, and see designers and communities using it as inspiration for future designs.
“So not just reproducing traditional cultural dress, but also taking it as a point of reference and moving forward into the future, recreating it, developing it and having fun with it by creating something completely new,” she said.
Impressed with the outcome, she hopes to build on this momentum where people celebrate culture every day.
“There are a number of entities within Saudi Arabia, organizations that are all about preserving our heritage; things like regional embroidery, jewelry, costumes, and really making sure that they’re archiving it, whether through photographs or through the actual pieces. I think that is something that we have been working on as a nation either in the private sector or the public sector for a while,” she said.

Saudi Arabia's heritage treasures
The five historic sites inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List tell a story of universal importance

Enter


keywords

Shanina Shaik turns heads in Melbourne

Updated 16 December 2024
Follow

Shanina Shaik turns heads in Melbourne

DUBAI: Part-Arab model Shanina Shaik turned heads in sculptural bubble dress at the National Gallery of Victoria Gala this weekend in Melbourne, Australia.

The Australia-born model — who is of Saudi, Pakistani and Lithuanian descent — made headlines for her unique dress, which she showed off at the opening of the gallery’s landmark Yayoi Kusama exhibition.

The tartan gown was created by emerging Melbourne-based designer Jarrod Reid. It featured puffed sleeves, eyelets down the front, and what looked like two inflated rings on top of each other at the hem.

The model told Mercedes-Benz in a video clip that the gown was “inspired by Scottish folklore.”

Featuring 200 works and spanning the 80-year career of the iconic Japanese artist, the exhibition includes sculpture, painting, collage, fashion and films, as well as the global premiere of Kusama’s new infinity mirror room artwork titled “My Heart is Filled to the Brim with Sparkling Light.”

The exhibition also includes the Australian debut of “Dancing Pumpkin,” 2020, a five-meter-tall yellow-and-black polka-dotted sculpture.

“Do you mind if I brag?” Wayne Crothers, the NGV’s senior curator of Asian art, told The Guardian in an interview regarding the show’s scale and artworks. While there have been other shows by the artist staged with “about 20 or 30 more works,” this is the biggest ever in terms of scale, the newspaper reported.

The 95-year-old artist is one of the world's most celebrated living creatives — she has her own five-storey gallery in Tokyo and is arguably as recognizable as her work. A giant inflatable sculpture of her was recently perched on the side of Louis Vuitton’s flagship store in Paris.

Shaik told Mercedes-Benz in the sponsored video that she is looking forward to taking her son Zai Adesuyan Matthew, whom she shares with partner Matthew Adesuyan, to the show.

In May, the model took part in her first International Mother’s Day campaign with her toddler, who was born in September 2022.

“Motherhood has changed me in so many ways… it’s definitely created more patience,” Shaik joked in the video campaign that she shared with her 3.4 million followers on Instagram.

“Now that I’m a mother, I would like to say to my mother, ‘I understand.’ I understand the worry, the concern, because you just want to protect your child every day at all costs,” she added.

 


Dua Lipa shows off Amina Muaddi heels in New York

Updated 15 December 2024
Follow

Dua Lipa shows off Amina Muaddi heels in New York

DUBAI: British pop superstar Dua Lipa showed off heels by Jordanian Romanian footwear designer Amina Muaddi in New York in a look put together by celebrity stylist Jahleel Weaver.

A long-time stylist for Rihanna, who collaborated with Muaddi on a Fenty shoe collection in 2020, Weaver opted for the designer’s Ursina Pump for songstress Lipa.

Lipa showed off the heels during an appearance on “The Late Show With Stephen Colbert” that will air on Sunday night in the US.

British pop superstar Dua Lipa showed off heels by Jordanian Romanian footwear designer Amina Muaddi. (Getty Images)

The pop star is currently in the middle of the “Radical Optimism Tour,” which kicked off in Singapore in November before she wrapped the Asian leg of the world tour with a show in Seoul, Korea, on Dec. 5.  

There are 68 shows already on the schedule and Lipa will next head to Australia in March.

For her part, Muaddi is busy promoting her winter season collection. The designer’s latest collection, titled Drop 24/25, launched in October. In early December, she used Instagram to promote winter-friendly shoes including the Veneda stretch boot, the Anok bootie and the Lila slipper.

Since launching her eponymous footwear line in August 2018, Muaddi has attracted a loyal following of celebrities including Gigi Hadid, Kylie Jenner and Hailey Bieber. Her brand, known for its distinctive footwear, bags and jewelry, has quickly become a favorite among the fashion elite.

Since the launch, Muaddi has enjoyed a series of successful events, notably her collaboration with Rihanna’s Fenty collection. Their partnership earned the Collaborator of the Year award at the 34th FN Achievement Awards in 2020.

A year later, Muaddi’s influence and success were further recognized when she was named one of Women’s Wear Daily and Footwear News’ 50 Most Powerful Women.


Arwa Al-Banawi: ‘I always want women to feel comfortable, cool and confident’ 

Updated 05 December 2024
Follow

Arwa Al-Banawi: ‘I always want women to feel comfortable, cool and confident’ 

DUBAI: Every young designer today who decides to go it alone with their own label must perfect a sort of solo high-wire act where the only way to look is forward. They must juggle cultural relevance, craft, representation, community and sustainability, and, all the while, create clothes that are not only covetable but actually say something about the world.  

Since launching her eponymous label in 2015, Saudi designer Arwa Al-Banawi has navigated these pitfalls with flair and remains one of the Kingdom’s most exciting design talents. Now rebranded as the shorter, chicer, ARWÁ, Al-Banawi is preparing for her second act. 

Arwa Al-Banawi launched her eponymous label in 2015. (Supplied)

“I always had this in mind,” she says of the pivot, “that after a period of time and after the brand had developed, to make the name shorter and of course more recognizable internationally.” In addition to the new name, there’s a slick new e-commerce site and a collection of day-to-evening separates with permanent appeal, brought to life by a vibrant campaign featuring 70-year-old Swiss model Gabriela Rickli-Gerster.  

The Al-Banawi hallmarks are all still there: exceptional tailoring, elegant cuts with a contemporary edge for modest dressing, messages of female empowerment, styling versatility and timeless design. This is not a reinvention but rather a reemergence and refinement of her vision. 

“I always want women to feel comfortable, cool and confident, even when they are dressed conservatively — that’s why I love what I do and it has always been one of the main aesthetics of the brand. Especially for me, as an Arab designer who also likes to dress that way, it’s something important to deliver in the offerings.” 

Born and raised in Jeddah, Al-Banawi “travelled a lot from a young age,” visiting family and vacationing in Europe – specifically Switzerland and Germany – which she credits as helping to shape the “eclectic East and West style” of her brand. But what put fashion on her radar in the first place?  

“I have to say that’s really because of my parents,” she says. “They are very into art and have a beautiful, authentic sense of style…My mom collected Vogue from back in the 80s and still has this insane library of fashion magazines. I grew up naturally learning about all the historical fashion houses and feeling the fabrics in her closet.” 

It’s hard not to attach meaning and emotional weight to clothing; what you wear not only reflects who you are and how you carry yourself, but also who you want to be — and no one understands this nuance better than women’s designers like Al-Banawi. Yes, there are feather trims, form-fitting maxi dresses and shimmering kaftans (a nod to her “graceful” mother) but there is also relaxed suiting, belted blazers and a monochrome trench coat with Arabic calligraphy on the lapel (inspired by her father and his love of sharp tailoring). Her approach is thoughtful, with attention to detail — versatile lengths, materials and colors – —that transcend demographics while mirroring the multifaceted and unique perspectives of women navigating the modern world. 

“You have to be in touch with your instincts as a creative because it is a very emotional experience,” says Al-Banawi, who lets her autobiography lead. “Inspiration can come from anywhere. For me, the concept is simply to be creative, to have fun. Fashion is really just the medium where I found myself most connected and able to share my story.” 

Much of the beauty industry is built on inspiring insecurity in consumers. It is worth billions worldwide and a big chunk of that is spent in the region, where perfectionism and high glamor are revered. Given the ubiquity of anti-ageing propaganda, it’s refreshing — encouraging even — to see Rickli-Gerster in Al-Banawi’s campaign visuals.  

“When I hear terms like ‘dress your age’ when women get older…what does that even mean?! I really don’t like that,” Al-Banawi says. “The message with the campaign is to show that confidence has no age limit — it’s something you have to celebrate within yourself. I know how it feels when you put something on and you feel immediately transformed… empowered, strong, beautiful — you feel like you can do anything.” 

Running an independent brand today is like being a musician and also owning the record label. To survive, you must be adaptable and incredibly self-aware, knowing that what you are producing is just as much a business as it is a creative project.  

“At the beginning, most founders are also the CEO of their company…half-business, half-creative,” says Al-Banawi, adding that her father encouraged her to complete her degree in finance before entering the fashion world full-time. “His way of thinking was that school will not teach you to be creative — that’s already part of you — but it will teach you the skills to perform in the profession that you want. I’m very grateful for that.”  

Her education has served her well, with a savvy business model that focuses on sustainable production values and limited supplies of seasonless investment pieces. She currently produces one or two main collections each year and two smaller drops to coincide with Ramadan and the summer season, eschewing the international calendar (like many of her regional peers) in favor of a strategy that complements both her goals and the needs of her customers.  

What works in the West isn’t necessarily relevant or reflective of the varied infrastructures or medley of cultures that currently exists across the Arab world. There have been various attempts at regional fashion weeks since the mid-noughties, some with more success than others. But ultimately what these events revealed was that without a healthy backbone — proper programming, guidance from industry leaders and intelligent investment at grassroots level in the nurturing of design communities — they couldn’t gain the trust or support of the designers they intended to serve. 

Burak Çakmak, the CEO of Saudi Arabia’s Fashion Commission, is attempting to change the narrative. In June 2021, he spearheaded the launch of the Saudi 100 Brands initiative, an annual, year-long development strategy for emerging local designers, educating them on everything required to grow a brand from the ground up with infrastructural support on Saudi soil. And last year saw the launch of Riyadh Fashion Week, where Al-Banawi showed her latest line. 

“At the moment it makes sense for me to present once a year — to show the vibe of the brand, connect with customers and the press — and when I do, it would be in Riyadh,” Al-Banawi says, remarking on how far the country has come in building a credible fashion industry. “The talent has always been there,” she says, “but what the Fashion Commission is doing is incredible and I know more designers will keep coming through every year…like us, they are telling the story of Saudi, its rich culture and heritage, through their brands — we’re all very proud.” 


Best and Worst: Saudi influencer, podcaster and entrepreneur Rae Joseph talks fashion and travel

Updated 05 December 2024
Follow

Best and Worst: Saudi influencer, podcaster and entrepreneur Rae Joseph talks fashion and travel

DUBAI: The Saudi influencer, podcaster and entrepreneur discusses style and her favorite destinations. 

Best TV show/film you’ve ever seen?    

I don’t love anything too dark or too serious. I get too engaged, so if it’s something too heavy or emotional, it can really drag me down. So I avoid things that are intense or too dark. I enjoy shows that take me somewhere different. I love sitcoms like “Friends,” and shows like “Sex and the City.” I also like “Ugly Betty.” People make fun of me for that, but I loved it because it is just a happy show. It was a simple love story, enough to lift you up and keep the storyline going. Other than that, I do not follow a lot of series. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Rae Joseph (@theraejoseph)

Worst TV show/film you’ve ever seen?   

Like I said, I really don’t like dark things. I know it’s some people’s cup of tea, but it’s definitely not mine. I don’t like those.  

Best personal style moment so far?    

Whenever I feel most in my element and feeling the look. I love vintage. I have my own big collection of vintage pieces, and I love mixing them with modern pieces and with pieces from local brands. I love creating that fusion that I feel truly represents who I am, and kind of shows the possibility of translating different cultures, different realms, different eras, into personal style. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Rae Joseph (@theraejoseph)

Worst personal style moment?    

Let’s say my late teens. Well… maybe from 14 till my early 20s? I was very experimental — to a fault. I look at pictures and I’m, like, ‘What was I doing?’ I experimented with my makeup, with my hair — I dyed my hair so many different colors, so many different styles. But, honestly, as embarrassing as it was, I’m also grateful for that phase, because I feel like I got a lot of things out of my system. It helped me shape my own way of styling and enabled me to explore myself better without having any restrictions.  

Best accessory for a little black dress?    

Less is more. Adding just one simple piece of jewelry adds so much character. I love that kind of dynamic, and I think it says a lot about a person’s personal style. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Rae Joseph (@theraejoseph)

Worst accessory for a little black dress?    

Just over-accessorizing. You want to keep it chic — elevated and refined. You don’t want to overwhelm the look. You allow the dress to shine, and when the dress shines, you shine as well. When you don’t overcrowd the look, you wear the outfit, the outfit doesn’t wear you. 

Best fashion trend of 2024?     

I’m not really a trends person. I’m aware of them, but I don’t necessarily implement them in my personal style. But, I really enjoy that it’s heading away from loud, in-your-face fashion — the prints, the logos, all that busy style — and people are now opting for a more sophisticated, understated look. Simpler looks allow you to show your taste better, in my opinion. I think Gen Z are a big part of that change. They are dressing more true to themselves. They see fashion as a way of personal expression, as opposed to just following what trends are out there.  

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Rae Joseph (@theraejoseph)

Worst fashion trend of 2024?    

The worst thing is when you see people lost in their outfits, and you can tell it’s really them following whatever they read, whatever they saw on someone else, rather than personally expressing themselves. 

Best advice you’ve ever been given?  

With everyone having access to everyone’s life and what everyone’s doing with all these different websites and apps, I feel like there is a lot of, sometimes subconscious, pressure, where people see everyone’s journey and then get overwhelmed. But, at a relatively young age, someone told me, ‘Don’t worry. Everything happens to different people at different times. Everyone has a different journey.’ I think that allows me to be more content and live life more peacefully. And have healthier relationships. 

Worst advice you’ve ever been given?  

Any advice that pushes you to be something that isn’t who you are. Some people give advice where they’re suggesting that you change the core of who you are — your values, what you stand for. I always think that never works.  

Best book you’ve ever read?    

I really enjoy Iraqi author Ali Al-Wardi. I find him quite insightful, especially his writings about social dynamics and society. He was such a visionary that even when you read his works today, you find parallels with our society. They tell you a lot about people and who we are as societies and communities.  

Worst book you’ve ever read?    

If I don’t like a book, or I’m not connecting with it, I’ll just put it down.  

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Rae Joseph (@theraejoseph)

Best thing to do when you’re feeling low?    

What I do if I am overwhelmed or feeling some kind of stress or anxiety take solo walks. I love just grabbing a cup of coffee then going on a walk by myself, and clearing my mind and allowing myself to settle. Even if you don’t resolve the things that are causing you anxiety, I think you'll return from the walk feeling a bit more settled and you can probably make better decisions and think more clearly. 

But if you mean you’re sad or depressed, then I think there's nothing better than spending time with someone you really trust — a family member or a very good friend. There’s so much power and human communication, as long as it’s with the right people. It could also be a therapist. Just spending time with someone who can understand, knows how to listen, and could give you helpful advice based on them knowing you.  

Worst thing to do when you’re feeling good?    

I think our brains sabotage us. We don’t allow ourselves to fully immerse ourselves in whatever is making us feel good. So I think you just have to try to relish it, and not think about other things. Just allow yourself to celebrate whatever it is that is making you feel good. Don’t take away from that. And make sure you share whatever is making you feel good with the right people. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Rae Joseph (@theraejoseph)

Best holiday destination?    

My three favorite cities — which I will never, ever be bored of — are New York, Paris and Cairo. Those cities have personalities. If you walk on the street by yourself, you don’t feel alone. They have so much character.  

Worst holiday destination?    

You see some people that go to the same place every year and do the same thing, see the same people. They don’t explore or expand their horizon. I don’t think that’s ‘the worst’ — it’s just unwise. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Rae Joseph (@theraejoseph)

Best subject at school?    

It makes me sound like a nerd, but I really enjoyed math. I really enjoyed equations and breaking them down and finding solutions.  

Worst subject at school?    

Physics is something that I just studied to pass my exams and get the grades. A lot of things did not add up for me. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Rae Joseph (@theraejoseph)

Best thing to do to ensure you have a productive day?   

I feel like starting the day right — whatever that looks like for you … maybe working out, maybe meditation, maybe spending time with family — and starting relatively early, sets you up well. 

Worst thing to do when you’re trying to have a productive day?    

Have a lot of distractions around. I think we became so addicted to checking our emails or messages, that it really can kill productivity. But we can try to control it as much as we can by limiting the distractions. 


Amina Muaddi promotes ‘fuzzy’ collection

Updated 02 December 2024
Follow

Amina Muaddi promotes ‘fuzzy’ collection

DUBAI: Jordanian Romanian luxury shoe designer Amina Muaddi is busy promoting her winter drops, with K-Pop star Rose wearing her heels in a recent photo shoot.

Muaddi took to Instagram to reshare Rose’s posts, where the star is seen being photographed for her latest single, “Number One Girl,” wearing a Lupita crystal slipper in green.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by ROSE (@roses_are_rosie)

The designer’s latest collection, titled Drop 24/25, launched in October. Over the weekend, she used Instagram to promote winter-friendly shoes including the Veneda stretch boot, the Anok bootie and the Lila slipper.

In September, Muaddi unveiled her latest heels on none other than Rihanna, as the singing star was spotted at Milan Fashion Week. Muaddi created a custom pair of Anok mules in a shade called butter satin and Rihanna attended shows by Ferragamo, The Attico and Gucci, wearing each of the brands as she sat in the front row. She also turned heads at the Dior show during Paris Fashion Week last month, while French Saudi model Amira Al-Zuhair graced the runway for Danish fashion label Ganni.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by AMINA MUADDI (@aminamuaddi)

Muaddi, a regular at Dior fashion shows, opted for a classic white button-down shirt and a sleek black satin pencil skirt. She accessorized her look with a pair of dark round sunglasses and a small textured blue Dior handbag.

Since launching her eponymous footwear line in August 2018, Muaddi has attracted a loyal following of celebrities including Dua Lipa, Gigi Hadid, Kylie Jenner and Hailey Bieber. Her brand, known for its distinctive footwear, bags and jewelry, has quickly become a favorite among the fashion elite.

Since the launch, Muaddi has enjoyed a series of successful events, notably her collaboration with Rihanna’s Fenty collection. Their partnership earned the Collaborator of the Year award at the 34th FN Achievement Awards in 2020.

A year later, Muaddi’s influence and success were further recognized when she was named one of Women’s Wear Daily and Footwear News’ 50 Most Powerful Women.