WASHINGTON, 8 January — People don’t like to share their travel secrets — especially beautiful, pristine beaches hidden away in a big-time tourist destination — Florida. But I will, only because I recently returned from a press trip there, and feel I owe them.

We’re talking about Florida’s "Panhandle." That funny little part that curves over the Gulf of Mexico, close to the border of Alabama, on the northwest side the state. Panama City is the place to get started; a few hours drive north from Orlando.

You want to start at Panama City, so you can get to their exquisite beaches. We’re talking 27 miles of beach, emerald green waters and sugary white sands. They’ve already been discovered — and a few years ago they were rated amongst the leading beaches in the world. But their beauty remains a general secret; as do their natural, historical and artificial reefs that provide excellent diving sites. The warm Gulf of Mexico waters encourage rapid growth and the wrecks and other underwater include a colorful array of exotic sea life, and one can never see enough tropical iridescent fish and giant Manta Rays.

Panama City Beach’s is known by some as the "wreck capital of the South," and has quite a reputation amongst divers, who say these are the best waters for underwater discoveries. The best diving — you want clear water — is from April to September.

So which beach do you chose, once you’re at Panama City? If you want to feel as though you’re in the Caribbean, try St. Andrews State Recreation Area, best known for its white sand beaches and warm, crystal-clear water.

Shell Island, also part of St. Andrews State Park, is accessible by the Shell Island Shuttle, easily identifiable by the pelicans hanging about the boat. The short ride deposits you at a boardwalk that brings you to the other side of the island. From there, it’s up to you to decide where to go.

Forget those crammed, people-populated beaches in Miami and Orlando. Here you’ll find 1,260 national park [protected] acres of privacy and relative solitude. The park’s uplands are characterized by rolling white sand dunes separated by low swales of pine flat woods or marshes. Try any of the scenic trails through the dune to the beaches, most offer great spots to enjoy a picnic overlooking the jetties, followed by a good loll in the lapping waves of the warm Gulf waters. Just to make it all perfect, the average water temperature in the Panhandle is 72 degrees, and the average year-round temperature is 78 degrees. My husband would leave Washington in a heartbeat for that climate.

And — after your day of fun in the sun? Panama City Beach is also known as the "Seafood Capital of the World," at least, according to members of the Panama City Convention & Visitors Bureau, who overwhelmed us with their delightful Southern hospitality. The beachside restaurants are delicious and fun — which is what one wants, and expects, on vacation. Nothing complicated, just fresh (food) and friendly (service). Many hotels are available; "budget-minded" to "very swish" abound. Family-style vacation homes are also readily available.

Of course, you might want to do more than explore the waters and the beachside eateries. We tried some dolphin "interaction."

The grown-up in us may say, "Who wants to ‘interact’ with a bunch of dumb dolphins?" Fortunately, childlike curiosity and wonder soon kicks in, and before long, you learn dolphins aren’t dumb at all, but you sure were — for thinking so. Try touring the Gulf World Marine Park, which offers an ‘encounter’ program that allows guests to enter the water and interact with the gentle, sweet-natured sea mammals. The Park also includes a huge indoor tropical garden that offers a wide variety of fauna and squawking, colorful birds.

One can also interact with sea lions. We got very wet, whiskery kisses — with complimentary photos to prove it — from a patient sea lion whose fish breath left me reeling.

This is no slimy "dive" where folks exploit captured creatures for cash. Gulf World is no rip-off; they make a conscious effort protect the mammals, which is heartening. If you want fun and local flavor — go over to Front Beach Road for cocktails and dinner. We had appetizers and tropical drinks on the deck of Harpoon Harry’s, which has a large deck that overlooks the water and is sited directly on the beach, which continues to be sugary fine and pristine clear.

I would be remiss not to urge you to visit the most delicious, and innovative, restaurant in the area. Criollas Restaurant is located in Grayton Beach, halfway between Panama City and Santa Rosa Beach. A charming, rambling house converted to a restaurant, we had the culinary dining experience of our stay in Florida. Just remembering the savory dinner still makes my mouth water. The French say: "Un avant-gout de paradis." Which is what Criollas offers: "A foretaste of Paradise." It’s worth the trip, or as many as you can manage during your vacation here.

From there, lodge at the Sandestin Beach Hilton if you can. The rooms are huge, and I turned off the air conditioner, opened the glass doors to the balcony, and fell asleep with the roar of the surf in my ears and moonlight’s silvery stream across my bed... a brilliant experience by any measure.

The next morning, we landed at Santa Rosa Beach, where we discovered Topsail Hill State Preserve, another real beauty of a beach that remains relatively unscarred by human hodgepodge. Both the Travel Channel, and the Discovery Channel, chose Topsail Hill as one of the top 10 secret beautiful beaches in the world. The beach is unspoiled, private, as beautiful as any in the Caribbean, free of charge, and virtually empty.

Food, sea, sleep. This is turning out to be a great working press trip. Back on Scenic Highway 98 West, we stop off for lunch at Pompano Joe’s, which also — wouldn’t you know it — overlooks the Gulf of Mexico. Joe’s is a lively, popular tavern with a wooden interior, and a fresh fish menu. I later learn that a lot of local eateries fashion themselves as "fish shacks." Judging from the folks here — with their Rolex’s and big rings, I guess they like ‘shacking up’ for lunch, which says something about the local clientele.

Back on Highway 98, we arrive at Destin Harbor, known locally as the ‘Emerald Coast.’ Take some time to walk along the boardwalk, fishermen return from sea by early afternoon, and line up on the docks and make a showy display to sell their fish for dinner. Try not to miss the glorious boat ride that took us through Destin Pass, which connects the Gulf of Mexico at Choctawhatchee Bay. Come soon though, as it is here that some of the president’s oil friends have been talking about building oil rigs — right here in there waters, which — when you’re on them — makes you wonder how anyone could destroy this beauty. Tourism is, I thought, vital to Florida.

Just a little further down the road I discovered my favorite hotel/beach combination... Maybe because I felt I could afford to return with my husband, but also because of its remote location. The beach is called Navarre Beach, and the Holiday Inn is only a few jumps away from the shore. Here you can body surf to your heart’s delight, and local construction is finished, so the area remains secluded I debated never leaving.

But more fun was yet to come. Do not leave this area before taking a canoe trip along the pristine Blackwater River at Adventures Unlimited in Milton. Known as the "canoe capital of Florida" this area offers miles of forests and waterways, where wildlife and abundant verdure abound. The Blackwater is a relaxing, slow-moving river seldom deeper than two feet (i.e. "non-threatening for those who may have never been in a canoe before) with white sand beaches and sandbars and shaded swimming areas.

Anywhere along this route is the perfect place to sit back with an ice, cold drink, put your toes in the warm sand and watch the sun set on this secret paradise.