Beauty, diversity of Muslim experience ‘brought to life’
Updated 20 January 2023
Arab News
DUBAI: The Kingdom’s inaugural Islamic Arts Biennale, hosted by the Diriyah Biennale Foundation, announced on Thursday that it would showcase the work of 18 Saudi artists.
The event, set to “Bridge the Past, Present, and Future,” will take place at the iconic Aga Khan award-winning Western Hajj Terminal in Jeddah from Jan. 23 to Apr. 23.
The participating artists include Abdelrahman El-Shahed, Sarah Al-Abdali, Sarah Brahim, Sultan bin Fahad, Ayman Zedani, Basmah Felemban and Leen Ajlan.
Parts of a Quran manuscript with portions of the text of the Holy Qur’an from chapter 5 Al-Ma’ida to chap. (Supplied)
The biennale will feature over 40 artworks and more than 200 artefacts from Saudi institutions.
Held under the theme “Awwal Bait,” meaning “First House,” referencing the Holy Kaaba in Makkah, the biennale aims to highlight the beauty and diversity of the Muslim experience.
The event is being curated by a multi-disciplinary panel of experts, including Dr. Saad Al-Rashid, a leading Saudi scholar and archaeologist; Dr. Omniya Abdel Barr, Barakat Trust Fellow at the Victoria and Albert Museum; Dr. Julian Raby, director emeritus of the National Museum of Asian Art, Smithsonian Institution, Washington D.C.; and Artistic Director Sumayya Vally, principal of Counterspace, and honorary professor of practice, UCL.
Aya Al-Bakree, CEO of the Diriyah Biennale Foundation, said in a statement: “The Diriyah Biennale Foundation has placed a special emphasis on nurturing and providing a platform for homegrown talent in its inaugural edition.
“It’s an exciting, first-of-its kind new stage for the local, regional and international art community to get inspired by fresh, thought-provoking perspectives on the diversity of the past, present, and future of the Islamic arts from around the world,” she added.
“Local artists from Saudi Arabia have done an incredible job in bringing the sacred aspects of Islam to life through indigenous and modern techniques and media. We are keen for people to join the dialogue and experience, firsthand, the sense of community that the faith can evoke, through art.”
Looking great: Skincare in the spotlight at Hia Hub
Updated 1 min ago
Hams Saleh
DUBAI: Hia Hub, Saudi Arabia’s conference for fashion, beauty and lifestyle, returned this week for its fourth edition in Riyadh’s JAX district, featuring discussions, masterclasses, workshops, interactive exhibitions and live performances.
Among the highlights was a talk by Patrick Chalhoub, president of Chalhoub Group, about the latest developments in the skincare industry as part of “The Skincare Edition: Unfiltered” summit.
“The whole idea of the summit is to take our visitors — be it professionals, skincare lovers, or customers who don’t have enough knowledge — through different experiences,” Chalhoub told Arab News ahead of the event.
“They get to diagnose their skin, so they know which areas to focus on, but in a playful way, where people come and engage in all these different experiences, each one brought by a different brand. They’ll learn more in a non-commercial way, almost like a discovery game.”
Speaking about the skincare landscape in Saudi Arabia and the Gulf region, Chalhoub said he had noticed different trends among younger and older consumers.
“The more mature group, I would say, tends to be quite traditional in their skincare habits. They prefer brands they know and trust more than anything,” he said.
“Although mature women are the ones who might benefit more from extensive skincare routines, they tend to use fewer products that target specific needs.”
By comparison, people under 30, including men, were “much more conscious of their wellness,” Chalhoub said.
“They use skincare products more frequently and are willing to experiment with innovative products, even with brands that are not necessarily very popular.
“They read more. They are more curious and adventurous, which is why South Korean and Japanese brands, even though they’re not that well known here yet, are making a strong impact in the region.
“Asia has such a big skincare market, with a lot of laboratory research,” he said.
Chalhoub also discussed how climate and culture can influence people’s skincare habits.
“For example, in the Gulf region in general and Saudi Arabia in particular, we know the sun here is very strong. So, sunscreen and products that protect against sun-related damage are essential here.”
People also used more moisturizers to ease the irritation of sun-dried skin, he said.
Chalhoub said that while he believed an era of homegrown skincare products could be on the horizon, it was not an easy industry to break into.
“There is a certain level of research and professionalism required in order to be able to do it,” he said.
“It’s not just about creating packaging and making it attractive, you really need to make sure that the product contains high-quality ingredients. Entering the skincare market will always be more complex.”
Displaced Gazan artists’ work on display in ‘Under Fire’
An exhibition in Amman shows works smuggled out of Gaza during the ongoing Israeli assault
Updated 7 min 18 sec ago
Rawaa Talass
DUBAI: A couple tenderly embracing each other; a family gathering; a flowering cactus; and a sunset colored in pink, yellow and orange. Such imagery represents some of the delicate drawings produced by four displaced Gazan artists, whose works are currently being showcased at Darat Al-Funun, an art center in Amman.
Other images on display make for less comfortable viewing: exhausted people with missing limbs; men kneeling blindfolded in their underwear; women and children whose eyes are wide with terror.
“Under Fire,” which runs until the end of the year, consists of around 80 artworks by Palestinian artists Basil Al-Maqousi, Majed Shala, Raed Issa and Sohail Salem. All four have been forced from their homes due to the ongoing Israeli assault on the Gaza strip, which began in October 2023.
A piece by Basil Al-Maqousi from the series 'I Draw with Love, not with War.' (Supplied)
For the exhibition’s curator, Mohammad Shaqdih, receiving the artists’ highly-charged artworks proved to be a cathartic experience. “I was following their work on social media, but when (the pieces) reached Amman and I held them in my hands, I cried at first, to be honest,” Shaqdih tells Arab News. “I was in a state of sadness and I don’t know why. While I was looking through them, I would take a drawing and then quickly put it away. There’s so much death, sadness and blood in these works. At the same time, they embody a form of resilience and resistance. They have life.”
Organizing any art exhibition comes with its own set of challenges, but planning “Under Fire” was exceptionally difficult. According to Shaqdih, communicating with the artists through messaging applications and having their works transported across the border were the main issues faced by the curatorial team.
Raed Issa, 'Friends.' (Supplied)
In May and June 2024, around 100 artworks were taken from Gaza to Egypt. In early October, the works reached Jordan. “These works were passing through some conditions that were dangerous. Some of works were damaged or torn apart,” explains Shaqdih. “It was an adventure taking these works out of Gaza, but, thank God, they reached us.”
The surviving artworks — predominantly sketches and line drawings — were created, by necessity, using the most basic of materials. Raed Issa, for instance, created his figurative images on medical aid packages using tea as a coloring base. Sohail Salem drew intensely-lined pen drawings in school notebooks provided by the UN Relief and Works Agency.
Basil Al-Maqousi is showcasing a series of drawings of daily life in crowded camps. “He said: ‘These works are not paintings or works of art for people to see or buy. They are a part of our bodies,’” Shaqdih says.
Sohail Salem, 'Tala Abu Ajwa, Girl Skater.' (Supplied)
Thematically, the artworks — which are being sold to benefit the artists — are simple and touching. They evoke despair, loss and confusion, but there are elements of hope, love and beauty. One of Issa’s images of two young individuals, depicted with unclear features, is slightly enlivened by the red flowers they hold in their hands.
“When you read the artists’ incredible accompanying statements, they’re full of human feelings,” Shaqdih says. “What they’re saying is that despite everything they’re going through with this genocide, they are still standing strong and resisting even if it’s through the act of drawing the daily massacres. They’re still able to work and express their existence as human beings under all the ugliness in this world. It’s a form of resistance and resilience.”
Majed Shala, born in Gaza in 1960, is one of the exhibition’s participants. His works in “Under Fire” depict personal memories, scenes of nature, and life under bombardment.
Shala’s home and studio were destroyed more than a year ago and he lost all of his artworks. “Under the sound of nonstop bombing, we were (told) to leave our area. We didn’t know where to go,” he tells Arab News. Shala is currently in Deir Al-Balah in central Gaza, where, he says, “the situation is continuously difficult. There is no safety and there are no essential supplies.”
On a positive note, he says he feels a sense of pride at having his sketches on display in Amman, a city he loves and where he has many friends.
“I hope that the world stands by those who have the rights, who own the land,” says Shala, “and doesn’t simply watch indifferently from a distance.”
Saudi designer Nouf Al-Rashed launches latest collection in London
Updated 24 min 37 sec ago
Shyama Krishna Kumar
RIYADH: Narma, the label founded by Saudi designer Nouf Al-Rashed, showcased its inaugural collection, titled Agal, in London this month.
The womenswear line features the black cord of the agal — the Arab men’s clothing accessory that keeps the ghutrah in place — as a central theme throughout each piece.
“The Agal collection is inspired by the rich heritage of the Middle East, particularly the agal, a symbol of honor, pride, and identity,” Al-Rashed told Arab News. “By reimagining this traditional piece, we are blending the past with the present, offering modern fashion that pays homage to our roots while embracing a contemporary, global aesthetic.
The designs prioritize inclusivity and accessibility, moving away from traditional gendered pieces. (Supplied)
“While we are not exclusively a womenswear line, in the context of the agal we do feel drawn to highlight it most,” she continued. “Our womenswear line seeks to empower women with designs that are not only luxurious and beautifully crafted but also deeply connected to a meaningful narrative. It’s about sharing heritage and offering elegant pieces with character. Moreover, the collection is a blend of heritages, a concept that resonates deeply with the Narma brand.”
The designs prioritize inclusivity and accessibility, moving away from traditional gendered pieces, she explained.
“In this collection, the agal — a traditional male accessory — has been transformed into a bold and symbolic design element. As women were traditionally excluded from the Agal, we wanted to bring in the idea of a woman’s crown. We aimed to share this symbol of honor with a female audience, making it more inclusive and accessible to all,” said Al-Rashed.
Saudi designer Nouf Al-Rashed is the founder of Narma. (Supplied)
Sustainability is also a core principle for Al-Rashed, who is dedicated to crafting durable, ethically-produced ensembles.
“We use eco-certified fabrics to ensure our materials are responsibly sourced. We also upcycle dead stock fabrics, minimizing waste and promoting circularity in fashion,” she said. “We work with partners who follow fair labor practices and prioritize minimizing environmental impact. Our designs are optimized to eliminate fabric waste, and we embrace a slow-fashion approach, producing just one carefully curated collection each year. By releasing limited editions, we avoid overproduction and remain true to our sustainable values.”
While the inaugural showing of the Agal collection was in London, Al-Rashed plans to bring it to the Kingdom before the end of the year. (Supplied)
Al-Rashed also revealed the deep influence that her parents have had on her career. Her mother May Aljabr's philanthropic efforts with the Saudi Cancer Foundation, along with her father Rashed Al-Rashed's achievements in the world of business, have inspired her to make a meaningful impact in her own right, she said.
While the inaugural showing of the Agal collection was in London, Al-Rashed plans to bring it to the Kingdom before the end of the year.
“Although the inspiration for the Agal collection is deeply rooted in Middle Eastern culture, the idea and the brand of Narma were born in London. It felt natural to launch the collection here, in the city that shaped so much of our creative journey. Soon in Riyadh, we will be bringing Narma back to the culture that inspired the collection.
“We hope to evoke in all audiences the same sense of playfulness, curiosity, imagination, and lightness that we felt while bringing this collection to life.”
Hia Hub: Day 2 sees industry leaders discuss evolution of skin care, market opportunities
Patrick Chalhoub: Many consumers, particularly men, are not fully engaged in skin care routines
Session underscored a collective commitment to enhancing skin care knowledge and practices in the Middle East
Updated 31 October 2024
Rahaf Jambi
RIYADH: Hia Hub, Saudi Arabia’s fashion, beauty and lifestyle conference, is set to run until Nov. 3 and Thursday’s lineup of talks featured a session called “The Current Landscape of Beauty and the Evolution of Skin Care” that saw panelists discuss the desire to grow the skin care segment of the regional beauty industry.
Moderated by Lynn Al-Khatib, vice president of communications at luxury goods retailer and distributor Chalhoub Group, the session featured the likes of Patrick Chalhoub, group president of the Chalhoub Group; Franck Marilly, chairman of Shiseido EMEA; Hasmik Panossian, regional general manager of Sephora Middle East; Laurent Duffier, managing director of L’Oreal Middle East; and Henk van der Mark, vice president of retail, commercial and business development at Estee Lauder Companies EMEA.
Patrick Chalhoub spoke of the responsibility that comes with being a market leader, saying: “As a market leader in the GCC (Gulf Cooperation Council) and Saudi Arabia, we carry a significant responsibility to grow the beauty market.”
Notably, while fragrances dominate the market, skin care usage lags behind at only 10 percent, compared to 35 percent globally and 50 percent in Asia.
This, according to the panelists, indicates a substantial opportunity for growth.
Chalhoub highlighted the potential growth area, saying: “Many consumers, particularly men, are not fully engaged in skin care routines, often using just one or two products daily.”
Marilly added to the discussion, reflecting on the cultural differences in skin care practices.
He said: “In Asia, skin care accounts for 50 percent of a $35 billion market. While the Middle East represents a smaller segment, we have ambitious goals.”
Marilly also underscored the importance of education, saying that “utilizing advanced technologies like skin analysis and DNA testing can greatly enhance consumer knowledge.”
The importance of technology was mirrored in the contribution of Duffier, who said that L’Oreal “harnesses scientific formulas and cutting-edge technology to deliver exceptional results,” while referencing tools that analyze skin to suggest appropriate treatments.
He added: “The rising interest in cosmetic procedures among younger demographics indicates a strong demand for effective solutions.”
The importance of education and raising awareness about the power of skin care came up again and again.
Van der Mark said: “In Europe and Asia skin care is deeply embedded in cultural practices. In contrast, the Middle East shows a gap in skin care education and usage.”
He pointed out that with 60 percent of the population under 30 in the Middle East, North Africa and Pakistan, according to the International Monetary Fund, there was a significant potential to engage younger consumers who prioritized health and wellness.
Panossian spoke of the importance of understanding customer needs, adding: “With over 3,000 Sephora stores globally, we gather valuable feedback on products and ingredients … consumers are increasingly focused on ingredients, so we prioritize transparency and authenticity in our communications.”
The session underscored a collective commitment to enhancing skin care knowledge and practices in the Middle East, with industry leaders agreeing on the need for collaboration, education, and innovation to drive growth in the market.
As the beauty landscape continues to evolve, these efforts will be essential in shaping a more informed and engaged consumer base.
AlUla, Ferrandi Paris team up to open culinary training college
Ferrandi Paris AlUla Campus will open later this year, with an inaugural intake of 100 students
Updated 31 October 2024
Arab News
ALULA: The Royal Commission for AlUla has partnered with Ferrandi Paris to establish a culinary arts, tourism and hospitality training college in the city.
Announced on Thursday at the Future Investment Initiative in Riyadh, the Ferrandi Paris AlUla Campus will open later this year, with an inaugural intake of 100 students.
Our vision of establishing #AlUla as a center of excellence for education in hospitality and tourism is now one step closer to becoming a reality with the opening of @FERRANDIParis - AlUla College. pic.twitter.com/0Xq3b2pqq8
It will offer three-year diploma programs in culinary arts, hospitality and tourism, taught by professionals from the Saudi Arabia-based Colleges of Excellence and following the Ferrandi Paris curriculum.
Open to high school graduates from AlUla and across the Kingdom, the program aims to equip students with vital skills to support the city’s growth as a global tourism and investment destination.
The partnership is in line with both the RCU’s broader goals of upskilling the AlUla community in sectors such as culture, heritage and tourism and Saudi Vision 2030, the commission said.
Ferrandi Paris is a prestigious culinary institution with more than a century of expertise in hospitality training. It said it would bring its hallmark high standards to the new college, enhancing AlUla’s educational and vocational offerings and fostering stronger Saudi-French cooperation.
