KARACHI: As Pakistani clothing label Rastah heads to the London Fashion Week 2023, its co-founders say that it is time for the “narrative” about Pakistan to change on the world fashion landscape.
Rastah, a premier South Asian artisanal urban wear brand, aims to decontextualize and reinterpret regional heritage and artisanship by bringing together western silhouettes and traditional eastern motifs, contemporary art and Mughal miniature, and stories of exodus.
The Pakistani label, which launched in 2018 with a few hoodies after the co-founders saw a gap in this segment, follows an online business-to-consumer (B2C) model, but has had numerous physical pop-ups in London and New York as well.
Rastah is going to showcase its products in the London Fashion Week 2023 on Feb 17-21 after a “rigorous” application process, according to the brand’s creators. The label will be showcasing its merchandise at 8:30-11:30pm London time on February 17.
For so long, Rastah co-founder Ismail Ahmad says, the world has looked at Pakistan and South Asia as a “mere cog in the global supply chain, however, we’re much more than that” as some of the best artisanal practices have either originated or been perfected in South Asia.
“The effects of colonialism have been drastic. Many a time, western designers or brands take inspiration from the east without giving due credit,” Ahmad told Arab News on Saturday.
“It’s time we changed that narrative and [told] our own stories through our own lens. Through this approach, Pakistan can [hopefully] become a force in the global fashion landscape.”
This handout picture, released by Pakistani fashion label Rastah on January 29, 2023, features the latest collection "inspired by concepts of conflict, desire and the human condition" that will be showcased at the London Fashion Week. (Photo courtesy: Instagram/ Rastah Official)
Zain Ahmad, the label’s creative director, said they will be taking guests on a “narrative exploration” of their 2023 Spring/Summer Collection, titled Volume IX, at the London Fashion Week.
“The concept behind the collection is deeply personal and revolves around feelings of desire and conflict. How often we let ourselves be consumed by the material world, knowing full well that it serves little to no purpose, yet we carry on with this pursuit,” he told Arab News.
“This is apparent in the use of chaotic prints and embroideries that are juxtaposed among each other.”
The brand brought to life the “unique,” lived experiences of the creative director and his design team as South Asians in a vastly globalized world, according to Zain. It was an attempt to carve their own identity whilst staying true to their heritage and roots.
“Having lived in various parts of the world, identity has always been a difficult question to answer, since the home has always been Pakistan,” he shared.
Ahmad said Rastah had already curated a market abroad and more than half of the brand’s sales came from the global north, including the United States, the United Kingdom and Canada.
“These markets are also rapidly growing, and the interesting thing is that it’s not just South Asians who are buying. This is so important in regard to Rastah’s chances of successfully scaling further,” he said.
The co-founder said his team always wondered if it was possible to buy clothes that weren’t entirely traditional, but had their roots in tradition, something that could be worn and appreciated in cities like New York and London. Since then, Ahmad said, the brand had evolved with a greater focus on luxury and an emphasis on design sensibility.
“I really don’t even consider ourselves a streetwear brand per se anymore given that our designs are a lot more elevated and technical now, even though those elements of streetwear still exist,” he said.
For the upcoming showcase in London, Zain said, the brand’s goal was to educate attendees on the various artisanal techniques they utilize and walk them through their process, which at times takes up to 10 days for a single piece.
The clothing label is also having a pop-up shop in London on Feb 17-21 after over three years, through which they aim to “engage” and show love to their community.
