Saudi fashion industry seen as a catalyst for economic diversification as it eyes global recognition

Brimming with diversity, Saudi Arabia’s topography offers picture-perfect backdrops for local and international fashion designers. (Photo: Saudi Style Council/NEOM)
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Updated 12 September 2023
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Saudi fashion industry seen as a catalyst for economic diversification as it eyes global recognition

  • Vision 2030 reforms have laid the ground for talented young Saudi designers to flourish in the industry
  • Acclaimed Saudi designer Yousef Akbar says the Kingdom recognizes fashion is a “serious business”

DUBAI: Move over, Milan. Not today, New York. It’s Riyadh’s turn to shine on the global catwalk as social reforms and economic diversification across the gamut of sectors propel Saudi Arabia toward the ranks of international capitals of the fashion industry.

In July, Mohammed Ashi became the first Saudi designer to show at Paris Haute Couture Week — a leading event in the global fashion calendar — by invitation of the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.




Models present creations by Ashi Studio during the Women's Haute-Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 Fashion Week in Paris n July 6, 2023. (AFP)

This September, a hundred Saudi brands will head to Italy’s style capital Milan to present their designs in WHITE Milano, one of the most anticipated events during Milan Fashion Week. 

The rise of Saudi fashion designers is a relatively recent development, owing in part to a host of government-sponsored initiatives, including the Ministry of Culture’s Fashion Commission, established in 2020 to lead the sector’s expansion.

Saudi fashion emerged as an important catalyst for economic growth and diversification in line with Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman’s Vision 2030 reform agenda, launched in 2016 to help the Kingdom branch out beyond hydrocarbons.




The Since 2087 gallery in Jeddah. Since 2087 is a brand founded by Saudi creative director Abduljalil Abduljawad. (Supplied)

The Fashion Commission recently published a report, “The State of Fashion in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia 2023,” to help local and international stakeholders understand the scale of the opportunity offered by the country’s emerging fashion industry.

“It holds the largest projected growth rate of any other large, high-income market,” Burak Cakmak, CEO of the Fashion Commission, told Arab News.

“Fashion is now very much a key economic driver of Saudi Arabia’s growth with the report showing retail demand for fashion products in the Kingdom is forecast to increase by 48 percent to $32 billion in 2025, with luxury retail set to enjoy 19 percent growth.

“We’re taking Saudi fashion from a predominantly domestic-focused market to the international stage and our home-grown brands, some established and some emerging, attend major fashion weeks and are building customer bases around the world.”




Burak Cakmak, CEO of the Saudi Fashion Commission. (Supplied)

Among the initiatives spearheaded by the Ministry of Culture through the Fashion Commission is the first-ever Riyadh Fashion Week, scheduled to take place from Oct. 20-23. The aim is “to sit among the most popular fashion weeks in the world,” Cakmak said. 

“We look forward to giving a warm welcome to visitors from across the globe and showcasing what Saudi fashion and luxury has to offer.”

While fashion shows have been held in private settings in Saudi Arabia for many years, it is only since the social reforms implemented after 2016, including the suspension of laws requiring women to wear head coverings, that such events moved into the public domain.

Dolce & Gabbana staged its first fashion show in the historic desert region of AlUla in 2022, while other prominent fashion and jewelry brands such as Chaumet and Van Cleef & Arpels, among others, have also staged events in the Kingdom. 

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Saudi Arabia’s Ministry of Culture established the Fashion Commission in 2020 to lead the sector’s expansion.

Demand for fashion products in the Kingdom is forecast to increase by 48 percent to $32 billion in 2025.

Above all, the Vision 2030 reforms have cleared the way for talented young Saudi designers to flourish in the industry, establishing their careers and showcasing their work on the domestic, regional and global stage.

“The world has its eye on Saudi Arabia — whether it’s through our participation in global sports, promoting the Kingdom as a new tourism destination, or a global player in the start-up economy,” Marriam Mossalli, a Saudi lifestyle editor, journalist and founder of communications agency Niche Arabia, told Arab News.

“There are so many sectors that utilize fashion, whether it’s the staff uniforms of a new resort by the Red Sea Development Company, or costumes for a new play produced by the General Entertainment Authority. There are so many opportunities for young Saudi talent to get involved and have their homegrown aesthetic celebrated.” 




Princess Noura bint Faisal Al-Saud, top left, wearing designs by Mona Alshebil. Alshebil, Niche Arabia founder Marriam Mossalli (top, right) and Mohammed Ashi (above, left) are among the Saudi creative talents who have entered the international fashion scene. (Photos: Mona Alshebil/Lina Qummosani/Saudi Fashion Commission/AFP)

 


In 2021, the Fashion Commission launched the “100 Saudi Brands” initiative, aimed at supporting and empowering Saudi designers by providing them with mentorship, guidance and resources to help them achieve international success in the fashion industry. 

The initiative has demonstrated the Saudi government’s commitment to promoting and developing the country’s fashion industry while supporting its designers to reach their full potential. 

“Being part of the 100 Saudi Brands for the last two years, I have greatly benefited from all the experts we worked with,” Saudi designer Mona Alshebil told Arab News. 

“Moreover, we participated in Milan Fashion Week, New York Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week, with the support of the Fashion Commission.”

Others, such as the acclaimed designer Yousef Akbar, whose designs were featured on the cover of Vogue Arabia’s June edition celebrating new Saudi talent, say that until a few years ago there was no fashion industry to speak of in the Kingdom. Now that has all changed.




Saudi fashion designer Yousef Akbar. (Instagram)

“The fashion industry is now recognized as serious business for the government,” Akbar told Arab News. “Whereas before nothing was done about it. There was no fashion industry. Now there is the recognition that fashion is important, and it plays a key cultural and economic role. 

“Secondly, the Saudi government’s investment in establishing the industry is crucial and thirdly, which in my opinion is the most important, are the designers themselves, because there is a lot of talent in the Kingdom and without the designers, there is no industry.”

Now, people around the world “can finally see that there are talented designers in the region and they’re just as good as anyone international.”

At the end of 2023, the Fashion Commission will also launch a first-of-its-kind product development studio in Riyadh. The production space will enable designers to create prototypes and samples to hasten market entry.




Brimming with diversity, Saudi Arabia’s topography offers picture-perfect backdrops for local and international fashion designers. (Photo: Saudi Style Council/NEOM)

The studio will be outfitted with cutting-edge technology, including 3D knitting and laser-cutting machines, with a view to being on par with the best factories in the world. Still, there is a lot of work to be done to forge a prosperous future for the fashion sector.

“We need to lay the foundation for an authentic fashion ecosystem that can evolve with the country, as well as complement the global fashion industry,” Mossalli said. 

“From manufacturing and sales to marketing and media, Saudi Arabia can adopt best practices and find its niche among its international counterparts.”

This will involve continued investment in human talent.

“We will continue to be guided by the data as we build the foundations for an internationally networked value chain and invest in Saudi Arabia’s talent pipeline through educational programs to produce world-class designers, ensuring the Kingdom continues to grow as an integral part of the global fashion scene,” said Fashion Commission CEO Cakmak.




Mona Alshebil designs. Mona Alshebil is a Saudi fashion designer and part of the 100 Saudi Brands Organization. (Photo Courtesy of Mona Alshebil)

Many of the Kingdom’s up-and-coming designers are striving not only to grow their own brands but also showcase their country’s heritage and identity on the regional and international stage. 

Fashion, therefore, has the potential to contribute both economic growth and enhance a sense of national pride. 

“As an emerging designer in Saudi Arabia, my goal is to contribute to the growth and development of the fashion industry in the Kingdom,” said Saudi designer Alshebil. 

“I am passionate about showcasing the unique beauty and creativity of Saudi fashion to the world, while also creating opportunities for local talent and celebrating the cultural diversity of Saudi Arabia.”

 


Artist William Brooks seeks fresh inspiration in Diriyah Art Futures program

Updated 11 sec ago
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Artist William Brooks seeks fresh inspiration in Diriyah Art Futures program

  • Hub picks 12 artists for inaugural scheme 

DUBAI: Saudi creative hub Diriyah Art Futures has handpicked 12 artists for its inaugural Emerging New Media Artists Program this winter, with Welsh talent William Brooks making the cut.

Set to run for one year, the newly launched program offers access to professional equipment and facilities, a production budget, learning experiences with international guest professors specializing in new media art, and mentorships.

Brooks spoke to Arab News about his artistic process and what he hopes to gain from the opportunity.

“The prospect of working in a place that is culturally and geographically far removed from my homeland offers a unique experience,” he explained.

“I anticipate that the historical significance of Diriyah, combined with the vibrant contemporary discourse on art, technology, and culture in the region, will inform new directions in my work and deepen my engagement with the concepts I explore.”

To work with a global cohort of artists, researchers and mentors is something Brooks is particularly looking forward to, and he added: “I believe a crucial aspect of being an artist is being inquisitive. This opportunity affords me the means to draw from a diverse and far-reaching wealth of knowledge.”

When it comes to his work, the multi-disciplinary artist has most recently been experimenting with the medium of installation in a bid to merge historical processes with new technologies. His most recent work, for example, “(conflates) the use of traditional etching processes on metal with digital imaging of the often overlooked but pervasive presence of digital communication.”

Brooks’ interest in digital signals and their vital role in daily modern life aims to explore and highlight how “these connections shape our interactions and identities in ways we often overlook.”

He added: “By making these digital elements visible, I aim to spark reflection on the implications of living in a world increasingly mediated by technology.”

Despite the seemingly futuristic nature of his work, the artist is keen to look back at history to inform his process.

He said: “When approaching a project, I start by immersing myself in archival materials, historical documents, or artifacts, aiming to uncover the ways in which older technologies or media forms were once used, understood, and experienced.

“This historical research is an attempt to see how these past media forms can recontextualize and critique present-day technological advancements.”

Brooks recognizes that it is no mean feat to translate such abstract concepts into physical artworks and pointed to his 2022 work “Radio Tapestry” as a piece he is particularly proud of.

He said: “This work involved translating data from wireless networks and digital devices into a visual and sonic installation of etched plates, allowing the audience to experience the otherwise invisible electromagnetic signals that we rely upon and surround us every day.

“The challenge lay in not only making the technology function smoothly, but also in creating an installation that communicated the conceptual depth of the work — highlighting how these intangible signals shape our environment.”


‘Mufasa’ filmmaker and cast dish on ‘Lion King’ prequel

Updated 35 min 53 sec ago
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‘Mufasa’ filmmaker and cast dish on ‘Lion King’ prequel

DUBAI: US filmmaker Barry Jenkins, known for his unique storytelling approach in films like the Oscar-winning “Moonlight” and “If Beale Street Could Talk,” was never in the business of making CGI-heavy blockbusters. But when Disney calls, you answer.

“Mufasa: The Lion King,” a prequel to the 2019 photorealistic telling of the 1994 classic, sees Jenkins take the directorial baton from Jon Favreau — and he says a vital piece of advice from the latter helped him see the project through. 

“Mufasa: The Lion King” is a prequel to the 2019 photorealistic telling of the 1994 classic. (Supplied)

“His advice was very simple and concrete. He said, ‘Just forget about the tech. Forget about the tech and just find whatever way you can to tell the story in your voice.’ It was really crucial,” Jenkins told Arab News.

“We still, of course, had to learn the technology, and sort of master it. But we realized very quickly we weren’t beholden to the way the technology was being presented to us, and that we could sort of mold it and meld it to fit our storytelling principles.”

Exploring the unlikely rise of the beloved king of the Pride Lands, “Mufasa” enlists Rafiki (John Kani) to relay the legend of Mufasa (Aaron Pierre) to young lion cub Kiara (Blue Ivy Carter), daughter of Simba (Donald Glover) and Nala (Beyonce), with Timon (Billy Eichner) and Pumbaa (Seth Rogen) lending their signature schtick.

Bringing the laughs in “Mufasa” are Eichner and Rogen, returning to play Timon and Pumbaa, respectively. (Supplied)

Told in flashbacks, the story introduces Mufasa as an orphaned cub who meets a sympathetic lion named Taka (Kelvin Harrison Jr.) — the heir to a royal bloodline. Their chance meeting sets in motion an expansive journey for the adoptive brothers, with their bonds tested as they work together to evade a deadly foe.

The concept of found family is integral to “Mufasa,” and while there are no surprises as to Taka’s eventual identity, Jenkins says telling his story was as important as telling Mufasa’s.

“When I first read the script, I was surprised and moved by the depth of this backstory. But then I was like, why am I surprised? Because when you watch the 1994 film, Jeremy Irons is bringing so much heartache, so much woundedness, so much bitterness to this performance. And this story is really about the energy of that woundedness, of that heartbreak. And so, I shouldn't have been surprised,” said Jenkins.

The star-studded cast — including Mads Mikkelsen, Billy Eichner and Seth Rogen — bring fresh perspectives to the beloved “Lion King” universe. (Supplied)

“But once I read the script, I did realize that the success of the film, the emotional success of it, was going to depend on the quality of that bond and the way we detail it. So it was really important to us,” he added.

Charged with making the film’s music Lin-Manuel Miranda, creator of the pop culture phenomenon “Hamilton.” Jenkins says he couldn’t have found a more perfect collaborator. 

“I just always have admired how earnest Lin is in his work. If you look at interviews of him speaking about anything he’s done, you can tell he’s so earnest and passionate about what he does. And you know, you can’t make the ‘Lion King’ in a cynical way. You have to be just earnest about it. And I thought when it came to this idea of making a musical, I’ve never done that, so let me work with someone who has and who’s done it very well,” said Jenkins.

The star-studded cast — including Mads Mikkelsen, Billy Eichner and Seth Rogen — bring fresh perspectives to the beloved “Lion King” universe.

When asked what made him say yes to the project, Mikkelsen — who plays the villainous albino lion Kiros — said that apart from the fact that he simply “loved lions,” he could see the parallels between Mufasa and his character.

“There’s not a big difference between Mufasa and Kiros. In the sense of their upbringing, except that Mufasa loses his parents in the beginning. They don’t throw him out. And that’s the opposite story with Kiros. He was abandoned. He’s an albino lion, and in the animal kingdom, it’s a no-go. So, his heart is darker than Mufasa. There’s no hope in his heart. That’s just survival. And so, he finds his own pride, and he wants a piece of the cake. He wants the entire cake,” Mikkelsen said.

Bringing the laughs in “Mufasa” are Eichner and Rogen, returning to play Timon and Pumbaa, respectively.

For Eichner, the film brings him strangely full circle.

“I saw the original in 1994 with my parents in the movie theater. I remember that. And then, strangely enough, several years later, when it went to Broadway in the very acclaimed Broadway production, I was right out of college and one of my first jobs was being a bartender at the ‘Lion King’ on Broadway. And I didn’t get to see the show. They wouldn’t let you watch the show, but they would pipe the audio from the show into the lobby so that we could hear it and know when intermission was coming. So, I’ve heard a lot of ‘Lion King’ in my life,” he said.

Rogen enjoyed collaborating closely with Eichner as they recorded their parts together, allowing them to work more organically.

“We get to record together, which is really rare in these types of movies. I think a lot of the dynamic that we have in the movies wouldn’t be possible if we were recording it two different times were, like, really interactive with one another and building off of what the other person’s saying in the moment. And it’s very fast as well. And yeah, it’s just really cool to get afforded the opportunity to carve out a little section of these giant, expensive franchise movies with our little brand of improvizational comedy. It’s cool that they let us do that,” Rogen said.

When asked if they could recall any of their improvised bits in the movie, Rogen said: “There’s some meta jokes that break the fourth wall. Billy makes some references to the Broadway show. We have a lot of jokes on how we wish we had more songs and more screen time. I mean, all that stuff that was just really making us laugh as we were doing it. And no part of me thought it would make it into the movie, honestly, but a lot of it made it into the movie.”

Eichner added: “I also like when Timon and Puma become a little bitter and resentful at Rafiki because he’s inserting himself into the story, but not giving us a part in it. At the premiere, actually, which is the first time I saw it with an audience, I had forgot about that. And that was kind of surprising that we’re allowed to do that in the movie, but it almost feels like that part is more for the adults in the crowd.”

 


Sofia Carson flaunts Lebanese labels at New York performance with Andrea Bocelli

Updated 22 December 2024
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Sofia Carson flaunts Lebanese labels at New York performance with Andrea Bocelli

DUBAI: Singer and actress Sofia Carson continued her love affair with powerhouse Lebanese designers at two shows in New York this week, after showing off looks by Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad at promotional events on numerous occasions this year.

Carson performed at New York’s Madison Square Garden alongside legendary Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli this weekend in a scarlet gown from Elie Saab’s Autum/ Winter Couture 2022 line. One day later, she hit the stage for part two of the event in a black, off-the-shoulder taffeta dress from Zuhair Murad’s ready-to-wear pre-Fall 2024 collection.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Sofia Carson (@sofiacarson)

“As I stepped off stage, my mom, my dream maker, held my hand and asked me what I felt. . . I said ‘I feel elated,’” Carson captioned a carousel of behind-the-scenes shots on Instagram, in which she is wearing Murad’s creation.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Sofia Carson (@sofiacarson)

In October, the singer and “Purple Hearts” actress was spotted in New York in a caped Elie Saab couture look from the maison’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, while earlier that month she hit the red carpet in Rome in another gown by the designer.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Sofia Carson (@sofiacarson)

Carson showed off a sea green gown from Elie Saab’s Fall/Winter 2023 couture collection at the “Andrea Bocelli 30 - The Celebration” premiere in Rome.

The A-symmetrical neckline and sweeping ballgown skirt brought a dose of glamor to the red carpet, with Carson opting for a sleek up-do and diamond-and-emerald earrings.

“Honored to have been by your side as we premiered your film,” the actress posted on Instagram alongside a photo in which she is seen posing with Bocelli.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Sofia Carson (@sofiacarson)

The film chronicles Bocelli's three-day July concert event in Italy honoring his 30th anniversary in the music industry.

Rewind to May and Carson was seen in the French Riviera as she walked the Cannes Film Festival red carpet in yet another look by Saab. The star opted for an olive-toned ensemble from the designer’s Spring/ Summer 2024 couture collection.

Carson is something of a fan of Lebanon’s couturiers — in 2022 the actress attended the Global Citizen Festival in New York a coordinating look from Zuhair Murad’s Resort 2023 collection, while in late 2023, the actress cut an elegant figure in a Zuhair Murad gown at the second annual Cam for a Cause event in memory of her former co-star Cameron Boyce.


Georgina Rodriguez visits Dior exhibition in Riyadh

Updated 22 December 2024
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Georgina Rodriguez visits Dior exhibition in Riyadh

DUBAI: Argentine model Georgina Rodriguez visited an exhibition celebrating the life and work of fashion designer Christian Dior at the National Museum of Saudi Arabia in Riyadh this weekend.

The Riyadh-based model, who is the long-term partner of football star Cristiano Ronaldo, took to Instagram to share insights about the exhibit, which is running as part of this year’s Riyadh Season.

“Highly recommend to immerse yourself in the ‘Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams’ exhibition in Riyadh. A magical journey through the history of haute couture, showcasing the works of art by visionary designers for 75 years (sic),” Rodriguez captioned a short clip on Instagram.

“Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams” is a collaboration between the French fashion house and Saudi Arabia’s General Entertainment Authority.

The event, which runs until April 2, explores the legacy of Dior and his successors through a fresh narrative specially curated for the show by art historian Florence Muller and scenographer Nathalie Criniere.

Highlights include tributes to some of Dior’s classic designs, such as Miss Dior and J’adore, and an homage to the Lady Dior bag in the form of the Dior Lady Art project.

British milliner Stephen Jones, one of Dior’s master creators, was heavily involved in the creation of the exhibition.

“When we were installing the hats, some of the looks I remembered, some I didn't. But many have never been shown before, so it sometimes feels like I’m seeing them for the first time,” Jones told Arab News earlier this month.


Bella Hadid promotes Orabella for festive season

Updated 21 December 2024
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Bella Hadid promotes Orabella for festive season

DUBAI: US Palestinian Dutch supermodel Bella Hadid took to Instagram to thank her team and customers for the success of her fragrance label Orabella’s festive Alchemy Library pop-up in New York City.

“The best night at our @orebella Alchemy Library pop-up in NYC! So much love and gratitude to my team & the beautiful humans who showed up to transform @thenednomad into such a warm & intimate space to celebrate the holidays, each other and my favorite sets to date: Our holiday gift boxes,” she wrote on Instagram, along with a carousel of photos from the pop-up.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Bella (@bellahadid)

In a bid to look the part, Hadid traded in her cowboy Western aesthetic to adopt a more festive look and was photographed outside the pop-up in a red and white ensemble.

The retro look featured a two-toned red cardigan, straight leg blue jeans and a luxe white wool coat. Hadid glammed up the look with strappy red Valentino Garavani Ladycrush heels and statement gold earrings.

The model finished the look with her favorite choice of eyewear, a pair of Bayonetta glasses.

The alcohol-free scents of Orabella, which launched on May 2 this year, were Hadid’s answer to traditional perfumes.

Hadid wrote on her website: “For me, fragrance has always been at the center of my life — helping me feel in charge of who I am and my surroundings,” she said. “From my home to nostalgic memories, to my own energy and connection with others, scent has been an outlet for me. It made me feel safe in my own world.

“Through my healing journey, I found that I was extremely sensitive to the alcohol in traditional perfumes — both physically and mentally — it became something that was more overwhelming than calming to me,” she added. “That is the main reason I wanted to find an alternative, so essential oils became an artistic and experimental process for me.”

She started growing lavender on her farm, walking through the garden every morning and learning about her family’s tradition of making homemade scents. “I realized I might have a calling in this. I found healing, joy and love within nature’s scents,” she said.

“This is why I am so proud of Orebella. It was truly a dream and a passion, that through the universe and authentic dedication, was able to become this brand,” Hadid wrote.