‘Disgusted’ British fashion icon bins honor from late queen over UK’s Gaza stance
Katharine Hamnett: ‘I’m disgusted to be British for our role in genocide in Gaza’
She released a video saying her CBE ‘belongs in the dustbin’ along with PM, opposition leader
Updated 22 February 2024
Arab News
LONDON: British fashion designer Katharine Hamnett has renounced an honor she received from the late Queen Elizabeth II to protest against the UK government’s stance on Gaza.
Hamnett, 76, famed for pioneering the slogan T-shirt, was made a commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire in 2011 in recognition of her influence on the fashion industry.
This week she released a short video clip showing her outside her front door, wearing a signature T-shirt with the words “Disgusted to be British” emblazoned on the front, throwing her CBE medal into a bin.
“I’m disgusted to be British for our role in genocide in Gaza,” she said. “This is my CBE. It belongs in the dustbin, with (UK Prime Minister Rishi) Sunak and (Labour leader Sir Keir) Starmer.”
Hamnett, who is noted for her political activism, released the clip ahead of a series of proposed motions in the House of Commons calling for a ceasefire between Israel and Hamas in Gaza.
DUBAI: The Italian luxury label Roberto Cavalli closed out Dubai Fashion Week this week with a presentation of its spring/summer 2025 collection, marking the brand’s first showcase in the Middle East.
Models descended onto the runway against a backdrop featuring the brand’s signature golden emblem. The runway was framed by a textured wall, with lighting that emphasized the collection.
The show kicked off with a powerful display of bold black-and-white printed outfits, featuring eye-catching patterns reminiscent of animal motifs, setting the stage for what was to come.
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The models strutted down the runway in long, structured coats and tailored suits, complemented by wide-brimmed hats and high boots.
Sleek tailored suits, glamorous mini-dresses, and flowing gowns reflected a mix of modern sophistication and bold statement pieces.
As the collection progressed, the color palette began to shift from monochromatic tones to vibrant hues, starting with a bold introduction of bright greens. Flowing pleated dresses and figure-hugging designs in various shades of green took center stage.
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The green hues were followed by striking pinks and deep reds, with rose patterns adorning halter-neck dresses and flowing gowns.
In addition to the vivid colors, the collection featured a variety of textures. A standout piece was a fuchsia snake-patterned suit. Pleated fabrics added movement, while corset-style dresses highlighted structure and femininity. Flowing silks and airy satins further contributed to the collection’s dynamic mix.
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The show was attended by several celebrities and influencers, including “Dubai Bling” star Loujain Adada, Egyptian actress and model Enjy Kiwan, reality TV sisters Nadine and Farah Abdel Aziz, Tunisian model Ameni Esseibi, Emirati actress and TV presenter Mahira Abdel Aziz, Saudi designer and fashion influencer Tamaraah Al-Gabaani, Iraqi fashion blogger Deema Al-Asadi, and Egyptian style star Soha Taha.
The show concluded with Fausto Puglisi, the brand’s new creative director, stepping out to thank the audience.
Founded by the late Roberto Cavalli in the 1970s, the brand quickly became synonymous with Italian luxury and glamor. Roberto Cavalli has long been a staple on international runways and red carpets, and is known for its bold use of tropical patterns and animal prints.
Born in Exile unveils ‘nostalgic love letter’ to Libya at Dubai Fashion Week
Updated 07 September 2024
Saffiya Ansari
DUBAI: Fashion label Born in Exile, led by designer Ibrahim Shebani, showcased its latest collection at Dubai Fashion Week in the form of a “nostalgic love letter” to Libya.
Shebani is keen to pay homage to Libya’s culture and heritage through his collections with one of the few high fashion brands to emerge from the country.
“We go back to our traditional dress code. We revamp it (and) we make modern clothing that is inspired from our traditional clothing,” he said before touching on the country’s turbulent recent history.
“Also the geopolitical situation influences our work … In 2014, when the civil war broke out in Libya, we had a beautiful monument in the center of (Tripoli), which was a bronze statue. It was stolen. We had some extremist militias in the city, and they stole it and destroyed it,” Shebani said, referring to an incident in November 2014 in which militants were suspected of removing the statue of a naked woman petting a gazelle.
“That was very heartbreaking to everyone that lived there or was from that city, and that inspired the collection. I think what we really want to say with this collection is that you might take away things, you might destroy some things, but it’s very, very difficult to wipe out the history of a nation.
“So the collection … is really a nostalgic love letter to a place where I lived for 10 years,” he said.
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Shebani was born in Germany and grew up in Egypt and Libya, before relocating to Tunisia, where he currently runs his brand.
The designer praised Tunisia’s homegrown production capabilities, and lamented the common practice of high-end European labels manufacturing leather goods there before placing a “Made in Europe” tag on the product.
“For every single brand you can think of, the bags factories (in Tunisia) produce (the goods). If you do one step in Italy, which is as little as fixing a button on a shirt, you can say it’s made in Italy,” he said, emphasizing the importance of educating potential customers on the realities of where and how luxury goods are made.
“Also, I think one of the biggest problems we have in the region is that the buyers are not very familiar with the regional brands,” Shebani added.
“It’s so much easier just to go to Europe because it’s a nice experience to be in Milan or in Paris,” he said.
Shebani believes the key to unlocking a brighter future for regional designers is to strengthen fashion infrastructure in the region involving all the key players — “it’s designers, plus clients, plus buyers, plus press, there has to be more of us in the region.”
Kawthar Alhoraish: ‘I feel a deep sense of pride as a Saudi designer’
The Kaf by Kaf founder is a finalist in this year’s FTA Awards
Updated 05 September 2024
Hams Saleh
DUBAI: Kawthar Alhoraish, founder of Kaf by Kaf, has established herself as a prominent figure in Saudi Arabia’s burgeoning fashion scene. Her recent nomination as a finalist for the Ready-to-Wear Award at the 2024 Fashion Trust Arabia Awards is a testament to her growing influence — placing her in a select group of designers from across the region, each vying for one of the most prestigious accolades in Middle Eastern fashion — and reflecting her dedication to her craft and her commitment to showcasing Saudi culture on the international stage.
“It’s a dream come true to be recognized alongside such talented designers from the region. I am deeply grateful for the support and encouragement I have received from my team, family, and the fashion community,” Alhoraish tells Arab News. “As a Saudi designer, I feel a deep sense of pride and responsibility to showcase the beauty and diversity of our culture through my work. I hope to inspire other Saudi designers and encourage them to pursue their dreams in the world of fashion.”
Her FTA nomination, Alhoraish knows, will give her a platform on which to showcase her work to a broader audience, attract new customers and engage with potential retailers and investors. “This recognition can open up new doors and opportunities for my business,” she said.
There’s also the small matter of financial grants ranging from $100,000 to $200,000 for the winners, depending on the size of their business, plus another $50,000 for the recipient of the Franca Sozzani Debut Talent Award. Collections from the winners in the Evening Wear, Ready-to-Wear, Accessories, and Jewelry categories will also be showcased by the FTA’s retail partner, Harrods, for one season, providing invaluable exposure on a global stage.
“The impact of having my collection showcased at Harrods would be immense for Kaf by Kaf. It would elevate the brand’s prestige and credibility on the global stage,” Alhoraish says. “The association with such a prestigious department store would lend a sense of luxury and exclusivity to the brand, further solidifying its position as a leading name in Saudi fashion.”
The winner of the Ready-to-Wear category, for which Alhoraish is a finalist, will also receive an internship in London with Huntsman and create a capsule collection to be sold on the retailer’s e-commerce platform. Furthermore, luxury ethical fashion retail platform Maison De Mode will provide a tailored mentorship to all seven winners, focusing on the importance of sustainability and ethical fashion practices.
Alhoraish has already made plans for the financial grant if she wins, including investing in expanding her business — which she founded in 2019 — across the Middle East and North Africa region and into global markets.
“I would invest in new equipment and machinery to increase production capacity and meet growing demands. I would also use the funds to explore new product categories, such as accessories or home goods, while staying true to the brand’s aesthetic.” she explains.
Alhoraish’s designs — which employ intricate textiles, vibrant colors, and traditional craftsmanship — are influenced by her Saudi heritage, which she blends with modern touches.
“For example, I might use traditional embroidery techniques on contemporary silhouettes or incorporate traditional patterns into a more minimalist design,” she says. “I also believe in the power of storytelling, and I often draw inspiration from historical events or cultural narratives to create designs that have a deeper meaning.”
Regardless of the outcome of the FTA Awards, Alhoraish has ambitious plans for Kaf by Kaf.
“Within Saudi Arabia, I aim to establish the brand as a leading luxury fashion label, renowned for its quality, craftsmanship and cultural significance,” she says. “I envision Kaf by Kaf becoming a household name, synonymous with elegance and sophistication.”
Saudi artist Raghad Al-Ahmad infuses Kingdom’s landscape and identity into new Adidas collection
Designer’s ‘Bloom Sky’ collection also includes abayas and hijabs
Inspired by poem written by Makkah Gov. Prince Khaled Al-Faisal
Updated 04 September 2024
Shyama Krishna Kumar
DUBAI: For Saudi Arabian artist Raghad Al-Ahmad, the chance to incorporate her roots and identity into the fabric of the famed apparel company Adidas was a dream come true.
The collection — called “Bloom Sky” — features the usual crop of functional unisex pieces including pants, shorts, sweaters, jackets, hoodies and t-shirts.
Jeddah-born multidisciplinary artist Raghad Al-Ahmad designed the newest collection from Adidas. (Supplied)
In addition, it has women’s modest-wear pieces including abayas and hijabs, all with a distinct Al-Ahmad touch.
“I believe we need to respect and integrate cultural elements into our collection. By including modest wear, we can connect with individuals who value this aspect of their culture, creating a complete experience,” said Al-Ahmad during a recent interview with Arab News.
“As a designer who wears abayas daily and strives to be modest through layering and matching, I understand the importance of these elements. Adding them to our collection will have a significant impact, allowing us to craft something that truly resonates with the culture we are embracing.”
The name of the collection is inspired by a poem by Makkah Gov. Prince Khaled Al-Faisal, who is renowned for his verse. The first sentence of the Arabic poem translates to: “The sky is pink and my desert is blooming.”
“As an Arab, I have grown up in a culture where poetry is a significant form of expression. I remember my grandmother always reading poems she had written, and my mother, who loved collecting poetry books.
She added that members of the royal family write poems, which are sometimes turned into songs. “I am particularly inspired by King Khaled’s poetry and his vivid descriptions of the natural world around him,” said Al-Ahmad.
The collection features women’s modest-wear pieces including abayas and hijabs. (Supplied)
The collection, which depicts iconography symbolizing flowers and stars, is an ode to all things Saudi and Al-Ahmad took inspiration from her everyday surroundings.
“My dad, an adventurer, retired from flight maintenance and began exploring Saudi Arabia in his motorhome. He opened a gateway to the country’s wonderful nature, camping amid the desert’s beauty.
“He introduced me to the captivating Saudi lavender flowers, showing his happiness surrounded by them in the desert. We found inspiration in the contrast between the sand’s color and the vibrant lavender,” said the Jeddah-born artist.
For example, in 2021, Al-Ahmad collaborated with luxury French label Jean Paul Gaultier to create playing cards that represent and celebrate the Kingdom’s culture on the occasion of Saudi National Day.
The “Bloom Sky” collection is part of Adidas’ efforts to collaborate and spotlight artists from the region. And also highlight their commitment to modesty and responsible consumption, whilst celebrating diversity and inclusivity.
“I was amazed by the Adidas team’s curiosity and their ability to adopt my culture in many ways, translating it into a product that everyone appreciates.
“The team paid attention to every detail, and for that, I am deeply grateful. Special thanks to each member … for bringing my culture into an innovative approach,” said Al-Ahmad.
Heba Jasmi showcases artistic eveningwear at Dubai Fashion Week
Updated 04 September 2024
Hams Saleh
DUBAI: Emirati brand Heba Jasmi showcased its Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled “State of Art,” at Dubai Fashion Week on Tuesday.
The collection featured a striking combination of lace, abstract embroidered prints, pastel hues and saturated colors. Key elements included exaggerated circular silhouettes and artfully embroidered semi-sheer fabric, while the color palette ranged from sea blue to sandy tones punctuated by a few coral-colored and lilac gowns.
In an interview with Arab News, Sharina Al-Falasi, the co-founder and Chief Operating Officer of the label, shared insights about the brand’s latest presentation.
Look 1. (Supplied)
“It draws inspiration from the dramatic hues and structures observed in nature, culture and human artifacts, translating these elements into fashion,” Al-Falasi explained.
The brand, which launched in 2019, has so far released four collections and recently ventured into couture creations, a primary objective from the outset.
Look 2. (Supplied)
Al-Falasi also discussed the brand’s vision for its ready-to-wear line, emphasizing its appeal for women who prioritize sophisticated sartorial choices in their daily lives.
“It is designed for ambitious women, whether she’s changing the world through a successful career or focused on taking care of her family, she needs something on the go that can inspire her and set her apart from the crowd,” Al-Falasi said.
Look 3. (Supplied)
“We believe that women in the Middle East, and globally, seek inspiring and beautifully designed dresses,” she noted. “Our passion is to create unique pieces, which drives the core of our label. We stand out because of our commitment to quality and craftsmanship, blending structure with feminine cuts.”
Despite the challenges posed by the COVID-19 pandemic, the team at Heba Jasmi used the period to refine their creative vision and rethink their organizational structure.
“We turned what could have been a major setback into an opportunity for growth and development,” Al-Falasi said.