Ahmed Mater: The Saudi artist documenting a kingdom in flux

Ahmed Mater at the opening of ‘Chronicles.’ (AN photo)
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Updated 18 July 2024
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Ahmed Mater: The Saudi artist documenting a kingdom in flux

  • Christie’s London is hosting ‘Ahmed Mater: Chronicles,’ a retrospective collection of his work, until Aug. 22
  • The exhibition highlights major milestones of the physician-turned-artist’s career

LONDON: Using metal filings, X-rays adorned with calligraphy, and a grandiose mihrab transformed into a body scanner, leading Saudi artist Ahmed Mater is documenting a kingdom undergoing a swift process of change.

Born in Tabuk in 1979, Mater grew up in Abha in southwestern Saudi Arabia, close to the militarized Yemeni border, at a time of immense social change in the region.

The first presentation of his art outside the Kingdom came in 2005 at an exhibition hosted by the British Museum in London. Just over a decade later, he became the first artist to host a solo exhibition in the US, with “Symbolic Cities: The Work of Ahmed Mater” in 2016.

Now, the 44-year-old has returned to England with the exhibition “Ahmed Mater: Chronicles,” hosted by Christie’s London until Aug. 22. The mid-career retrospective collection features more than 100 of his works, and promises to highlight the major milestones of his career.




Ahmed Mater at the opening of ‘Chronicles.’ (AN photo)

“It’s very amazing and extraordinary for me to be back and connect again with the audience here in London after 2005, and now, maybe, with more artwork to share and 20 years of experimental work,” Mater told Arab News on the exhibition’s opening day.

“So, it’s something that, really, I want the audience to share all of this — the experiment and the time and sharing all of this journey together.”

Despite being heavily influenced by his mother’s work as an Asiri calligrapher and painter, and art being the “passion and DNA” of his childhood, Mater began his professional life working in medicine.




Mater first encountered city life as a teenager in Abha. (AN photo) 

“At that time, there was no … you have to do something, especially in Saudi Arabia, there was no school of art,” he said.

“So, medicine was very close to me. I studied a more human science; that’s very close to me.”

Despite “building a lot of things and experiences” during his work as a physician, Mater returned to his roots in art “because it became the only voice that I could continue with.”




The artist began experimenting with X-rays during his medical studies. (AN photo)

The physician-turned-artist described the difference between his two careers as one of “subjectivity versus objectivity.”

Mater’s oeuvre, from the satirical to the striking, details the changes, big and small, in a kingdom undergoing unprecedented social, religious and economic transformation.

“I think it’s a kind of synergistic study of all of the artwork together,” he said. “When you are an artist, you are also a philosopher, you are a thinker, and all of these events together shape our generation at a time, our societies.

“I was really fascinated by studying a community — about urban change surrounding me. Maybe I take this from medicine, maybe I take it from the art, or maybe I take it from my transition from the village to the city.”

In the photograph “Hajj Season” (2015), which is part of his “Desert of Pharan” collection documenting change in Makkah, masses of pilgrims wait patiently in a gated courtyard. Behind them, KFC and Burger King restaurants can be seen.

“Stand in the Pathway and See” (2012) shows a narrow alleyway bisecting dilapidated buildings, part of an old settlement that was soon to be demolished to make way for new hotels. A young boy sits in the shadows amid the waste and graffiti. The alley appears to be illuminated by the fierce glow of Makkah’s Clock Tower, which looms ominously, or as a figurative light at the end of the tunnel, over the old city.

The dual meaning of the photograph is a hallmark of Mater’s work. In “Nature Morte” (2012) and “Room With a View ($3,000/night)” (2012), Mater again reveals some of the peculiarities of Makkah’s transformation through simple photographs.




Left to right: ‘Nature Morte,’ ‘Stand in the Pathway and See’ and ‘Room With a View ($3,000/night).’ (AN photo)

In both, the Kaaba and masses of pilgrims are seen at a low angle through the windows of a luxury hotel room, replete with a bowl of decorative fruit and cable TV. Viewers will inevitably be divided in their reaction.

Mater’s status as a passive spectator taking the photographs reinforces his self-described role as a documenter of change, and is part of the subtlety that typifies much of his work.

For other pieces he takes a more direct approach, however. Viewers are met with loud beeping and flashing red lights in his simple but ingenious “Boundary” (2024), for example. The artist combines a mihrab, a prayer niche from the interior of a mosque, with a body scanner; the result is a striking summation of modern-day security fears and the commercialization of religion.




Viewers should expect a surprise with Mater’s modern mihrab. (AN photo)

Many of Mater’s works explore the theme of the individual sublimating to the group, which emerges as a distinct entity. This is epitomized in “Magnetism IV” (2012), a diminutive model of the Kaaba surrounded by perfectly arranged iron filings, representing a swirling mass of pilgrims.




The artist depicts the magnetism of Islam’s holiest site. (AN photo)

To create a similar effect in a photograph, Mater used a long exposure to capture the Kaaba at the height of Hajj in “Tawaf” (2013), an image in which the resulting movement of pilgrims resembles a hurricane around the holiest site in Islam.

The artist admits that the theme might be an unconscious effect of his Islamic upbringing.




A selection from Mater’s ‘Magnetism’ series. (AN photo)

“I think it’s something that is unconsciously done by an artist in their practices,” he said. “You know, sometimes I didn’t pay full attention but after I did my artwork, I noticed. I noticed these kind of things. But maybe spirituality has this feeling.

“So, I come from a religious background and this has, maybe, shaped a lot of my understanding. It’s given me a lot of imagination. You know, religion is part of this big imagination.”




Long exposure creates a hurricane effect at the height of Hajj. (AN photo)

For Mater, 1938 might have been the most important year in the Kingdom’s history. Oil was struck on March 3 that year at the Dammam No. 7 well, and the liquid gold that began to flow would soon begin to finance the Kingdom’s transformation.

Again juxtaposing old and new, traditional and modern, in “Lightning Land” (2017) the artist captures a stunning shot of lightning arcing toward the ground, with a disused Bedouin tent in the foreground and oil machinery in the background.




Mater’s ‘Lightning Land’ highlights the tensions between old and new in Saudi Arabia. (AN photo)

“Evolution of Man” (1979) is Mater’s most morbid work. A horizontal collage begins with a front-on X-ray shot of a man holding a gun to his own head. The next shots morph as a square shape begins to form. The final image is a gas pump, with the nozzle resembling the gun featured in the first image.

The former physician’s prognosis of the Kingdom’s arts scene takes a more positive path, however. Mater believes that cooperation between the public and private sectors is the key to further unleashing Saudi Arabia’s burgeoning cultural industries.

A “big, big awakening of art and culture” is taking place in the Kingdom, he said. Mater himself is part of this public-private synthesis, and one of five leading artists commissioned by Wadi AlFann (Valley of the Arts) in AlUla to produce a large-scale installation in the desert sands.

The result is Ashab Al-Lal, a mighty but unintrusive oculus that will harness light refraction, in a homage to the scientists of the Islamic golden age. Wadi AlFann will start welcoming visitors in 2025.




A model of Mater’s Ashab Al-Lal installation was unveiled at Christie’s. (AN photo) 

“I think now it’s a very optimistic generation; there is a lot of movement,” Mater said.

“So, it’s from both the private body and the public body, together shaping a new future. That’s what I’ve noticed today.”


French Algerian model Loli Bahia celebrates Pharrell Williams’ fashion vision

Updated 22 January 2025
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French Algerian model Loli Bahia celebrates Pharrell Williams’ fashion vision

  • French Algerian model attends menswear show in Paris
  • Williams teams up with Japanese fashion designer Nigo

DUBAI: French Algerian model Loli Bahia continues to strengthen her ties with Louis Vuitton, months after walking for the brand, by showing support for its menswear creative director Pharrell Williams.

This week, Bahia attended the menswear Fall/Winter 2025/2026 show during Paris Fashion Week, which runs through Jan. 26.

Williams hosted the event in a rear courtyard of the Louvre Museum after dark, setting the stage for a vibrant fall-winter collection that reimagined streetwear.

Models strode around the set to marching music, parading chunky wool suits, short bomber jackets, leather bermudas and coats in pastels, autumn tones and psychedelic renditions of the brand’s signature logo patterns.

There were colorful speedy bags, lobster-claw charms, pearl embellishments, thick jewelry and utility pockets in suede leather.

Bahia shared highlights from the show on Instagram, offering her followers a glimpse of the night’s fashion and energy.

For this collection, Williams, who is also famous as a musician, teamed up with his longtime collaborator, Japanese fashion designer Nigo, currently creative director of another LVMH-owned label, Kenzo.

The pair have been active in street culture for decades, founding the label Billionaire Boys Club in 2003 and playing a role in streetwear’s rise to prominence with their blend of music and fashion.

In the front row, LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault sat between his wife, Helene Mercier, and NBA basketball player Victor Wembanyama, who was seen tapping his foot to the music.

The show was also attended by Hollywood stars Adrien Brody and Bradley Cooper, K-pop sensations J-Hope and Jackson Wang, and rap legends Travis Scott, J Balvin and Future.

Bahia last walked for Louis Vuitton in October, showcasing their spring/summer collection.

She graced the runway wearing a black jumpsuit with a relaxed, tailored fit and a deep V-neckline, allowing a metallic, iridescent top to peek through underneath. The shiny fabric of the top, visible on the sleeves and chest, contrasted with the matte texture of the jumpsuit.

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Beyond the runway, Bahia has also appeared in Louis Vuitton’s campaigns, including the Spring/Summer 2024 campaign released in February 2024.

In the promotional clip, she showcased the brand’s creations, pairing a vibrant orange Dauphine bag crafted from supple leather with an oversized blazer dress featuring multiple buttons.

The look was completed with white stockings and heels.


Omar Offendum reflects on identity ahead of Quoz Art Fest performance of ‘From a free Syria’

Updated 22 January 2025
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Omar Offendum reflects on identity ahead of Quoz Art Fest performance of ‘From a free Syria’

  • Syrian-American rapper blends classic hip-hop, Arab poetry
  • Trying to challenge ‘stereotypes’ of Arabs, Muslims, he says

DUBAI: Returning to the UAE after his debut performance in AlSerkal in 2009, Syrian-American artist Omar Offendum will take to the stage at the Quoz Arts Fest on Jan. 26.

Speaking to Arab News recently, the New-York based rapper said he was excited about performing in the Arab world, and being able to say he is “from a free Syria” for the first time.

Offendum is also a spoken-word poet and recently described himself as a theatrical storyteller.

“When I’m on stage, I’m not just singing songs or just reciting poetry, I’m bridging all of that with storytelling. And I find myself really comfortable in theater spaces now.

“As much as I love a big festival, I find what’s really unique about theater is people enter the space with the understanding that you are being sort of transported into an imaginary time and place,” he said.

Drawing inspiration from artists including Bob Marley, Sade, Sabah Fakhri and Feyrouz, Offendum’s music blends classic hip-hop and elements from traditional Arab culture.

“What was unique to me in my upbringing was that it wasn’t just musicians, it was poets. Nizar Qabbani, for me, was foundational. Every album I’ve made, there’s been translations of Nizar Qabbani’s work.

I’m always reciting his poetry on stage. I think what’s really special about being an artist is that when you do it with a desire to be authentic and genuine.”

Offendum’s music is often a form of social commentary reflecting on current or past events. He said sometimes “you need a spoonful of sugar to help the medicine go down” and his music does that.

“I think music speaks to a different dimension in our heart and in our mind. There’s emotion and there’s meaning in music just as much as there are in words,” he explained.

But success did not come easy for the Saudi Arabia-born rapper. Offendum said he faced many challenges as an Arab after moving to Los Angeles.

He recalled an experience where he was offered voice-over work that depicted harmful stereotypes of Arabs.

“My friend was shocked that I rejected a large sum of money but I said of course not. I’m actively trying to use my voice to change the perception of Arabs and Muslims in the media,” he said.

Offendum said he remains full of passion and drive. “The fact that I’m 43 and I’m still doing what I love and I’m excited and passionate about it ... tells me that I’ve made it.”

Although New York holds a special place in Offendum’s heart, he hopes to perform in his birthplace of Saudi Arabia and homeland of Syria.


Qatar exhibition explores relationship between AI and humanity

Updated 21 January 2025
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Qatar exhibition explores relationship between AI and humanity

DOHA: The Media Majlis Museum at Northwestern University in Qatar launched “Ai or Nay? Artificial vs. Intelligent,” a thought-provoking exhibition exploring humanity’s evolving relationship with machine learning. 

Running until May 15, the exhibition brings together over 20 works by international and regional artists.

Directed by Alfredo Cramerotti, the exhibition emphasizes interdisciplinary dialogue, he said. “For me, it’s important as a curator to combine arts with something else and have a foot in art and a foot in something like technology or media,” Cramerotti told Arab News.

Alfredo Cramerotti (L) is the director of the exhibition and Jack Taylor (R) is the curator. (Supplied)

“We’re embedded in an environment of communication, technology, and media and (in this exhibition) we bring in artistic elements… to tackle themes that are relevant for society now.”

On display are installations from international creatives such as Jan Zuiderveld (Netherlands), Patrick Tresset (France/Belgium), and Adnan Ayub Aga (UAE/Portugal), alongside interactive and visual works by Amr Alngmah (Yemen/Egypt), Farjana Salahuddin (Bangladesh), graphic designer Hind Al-Saad (Qatar), Hadeer Omar (Egypt) and Bilge Emir (Turkey/Germany).

“We thought, let’s bring in in different voices — from the region and internationally, from different sectors of society and cultures — to help us understand the different pinch points of AI to make the general public more aware of certain issues,” explained Cramerotti.

The exhibition brings together over 20 works by international and regional artists.(Supplied)

The exhibition also addresses the tension between digital and physical experiences, he added: “This hybridity is central to the show. It’s about being aware of how AI and information flows shape our identities and impact our lives.”

As an example, Cramerotti highlighted the work of Al-Saad and Omar, which features screen walls offering a glimpse into how AI works in our everyday lives.

“The idea of how computers see us is actually quite central, but it’s completely invisible — like facial recognition,” he said. “It is integrated in your life flow. You don’t notice it. But there is an incredible amount of ‘bio-politics’ behind it.”


Tiffany Trump stuns in Zuhair Murad gown during inauguration week

Updated 21 January 2025
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Tiffany Trump stuns in Zuhair Murad gown during inauguration week

  • Tiffany is married to Lebanon-born Michael Boulos
  • Married in 2022, they are expecting their first child

DUBAI: Tiffany Trump, the daughter of US President Donald Trump, turned heads this week in a dress by Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad at the Inaugural Candlelight Dinner, hosted at the National Building Museum in Washington, D.C.

Traditionally held on the eve of a US presidential inauguration, the black-tie event honors the incoming administration with an evening of celebration and speeches.

For the occasion, Tiffany, who is expecting her first child with husband Michael Boulos, chose a custom, chocolate-brown chiffon gown with an asymmetric one-shoulder neckline, and a cape-like sleeve that flowed dramatically.

The dress was cinched at the waist and highlighted by intricate draped detailing on the bodice.

On Monday morning, Tiffany and Boulos attended services at St. John’s Church in Washington, D.C., a longstanding tradition for incoming presidents and family members.

Later in the day, she joined her family at the swearing-in ceremony, which was held indoors at the Capitol Rotunda due to extreme cold weather.

She also attended the inaugural parade at the Capital One Arena and the inaugural balls that evening.

For the day’s events, she wore a velvet navy-blue coat cinched at the waist, accessorized with minimal jewelry and leather point-toed stiletto boots.

She wore a velvet navy-blue coat cinched at the waist, accessorized with minimal jewelry and leather point-toed stiletto boots. (Getty Images)

Tiffany and Boulos tied the knot in 2022. For her special day, the bride wore a custom-made Grecian-style gown by Lebanese designer-to-the-stars Elie Saab.

Tiffany chose her wedding dress as a nod to Boulos’ heritage. “It’s a Lebanese-American wedding, so we were so happy to have Elie Saab create the magic,” said mother of the bride Marla Maples at the time, according to People magazine.

Boulos is of Lebanese and French descent and grew up in Lagos where his father, Massad, runs Boulos Enterprises and is the CEO of SCOA Nigeria.

The family is also linked to the world of Hollywood through Michael’s brother Fares, who is an actor and appeared in a 2017 episode of “The Crown.”

Boulos and Tiffany were engaged in January 2021, the day before Trump left office following defeat in the 2020 election.


Camila Alves McConaughey shines in Elie Saab at Riyadh event

Updated 20 January 2025
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Camila Alves McConaughey shines in Elie Saab at Riyadh event

DUBAI: Lebanese couturier to the stars Elie Saab took to Instagram to give a shoutout to model Camila Alves McConaughey, who wore the label to the recent concert “Life is a Dream,” led by Hollywood giant Anthony Hopkins in Riyadh.

“@camilamcconaughey attended the ‘Life Is A Dream’ concert composed by Sir Anthony Hopkins with the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra alongside her husband Matthew in an ELIE SAAB Spring Summer 2025 look,” the label captioned the Instagram post.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by ELIE SAAB (@eliesaabworld)

Alves McConaughey, who attended the event with her actor husband Matthew McConaughey, wore a striking yellow gown to the event, with flowing caped sleeves and a plunging neckline.

Meanwhile, US pop sensation Christina Aguilera, who performed at the Joy Awards ceremony over the weekend in Riyadh, also opted for an Elie Saab creation for the first part of her performance.

Aguilera took to the stage in a dramatic burgundy gown from Elie Saab’s Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2024 collection. The glittering gown saw Aguilera channeling old-school 1920s Hollywood glamour. The dress flowed into a feathered train, and she completed the look with a chiffon scarf, draped over her head and shoulders.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by ELIE SAAB (@eliesaabworld)

The same event saw Alves McConaughey opt for another yellow gown, this time from Oscar de la Renta.

As for the symphony concert, in a captivating blend of art and humanity, Hollywood icon Hopkins graced the Bakr Al-Shaddi Theater in Boulevard City, Riyadh, with a performance titled “Life is a Dream” as part of the Riyadh Season festivities.

Introduced by fellow actor Morgan Freeman, Hopkins opened his speech with the Arabic greeting, “As Salaam o Alaikum,” setting a tone of cultural respect and unity.

Hopkins shared his reflections on life and art, drawing from the words of Edgar Allan Poe: “I have always believed that all we see or seem is but a dream within a dream.”

Reflecting on his life, he described the path from “the son of a simple baker” in South Wales to a world-renowned composer and actor.

“My life, to me, is a profound mystery,” he said. “It’s impossible to understand or take credit for the blessings I’ve been given. That’s why I believe life is a dream, and this piece, ‘Life is a Dream,’ was inspired by my dreamy childhood in South Wales, my wonderfully supportive mother and my father, who was larger than life and worked tirelessly throughout his life.”