Mohammed Khoja pays homage to the Kingdom in latest collection 

Mohammed Khoja is the founder of luxury label Hindamme. (Supplied)
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Updated 20 July 2024
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Mohammed Khoja pays homage to the Kingdom in latest collection 

  • The Saudi fashion designer discusses his new shirts, inspired by different regions of his homeland 

RIYADH: “I was very motivated by (the idea of) integrating my experiences as a Saudi and contributing to the creation of a more contemporary Saudi design identity through my point of view,” Saudi fashion designer Mohammed Khoja, founder of luxury label Hindamme, tells Arab News. “My ultimate goal is to open more doors and to spread Saudi culture to global audiences. 

“Hindamme has grown considerably since its inception, and I am very optimistic about what’s to come. I believe brands such as mine are proving to be more lucrative and I’ve observed an uptick in demand, and opportunities for growth, in recent months,” he continues. 

Hindamme is an old Arabic adjective that roughly “a harmonious aesthetic form.” That is what Khoja hopes to capture in each of his creations — combining a bold but minimalist approach to ready-to-wear fashion.  




Mohammed Khoja is the founder of luxury label Hindamme. (Supplied)

Hindamme’s “Season V” collection, for example, drew on color theory, and included “mood-enhancing” gradients as well as futuristic, nature-inspired themes in fabrics including velvet, nylon, and satin. Khoja debuted those designs in Paris in June last year, along with 15 other Saudi designers at a pop-up event called Emerge, organized by the Saudi Fashion Commission and MoCX, the Saudi Ministry of Culture's General Department of Innovation, in partnership with the Saudi Visual Arts Commission, the Saudi Culinary Arts Commission, and the Saudi Music Commission.  

“Season V” was designed during COVID-19 lockdowns, and was partly inspired by Khoja’s desire to “reconnect” with the Earth. It included a heat temperature-gradient blazer, which Khoja intended as a stark reminder of the threat of climate change. 

For his latest collection, his sixth, the designer was inspired by different regions of his homeland.  

“It is inspired by my love of travel and pays homage to the Kingdom’s drive to promote tourism. I designed pieces that were sort of like elevated post cards for every region — it truly is like a love letter to our cultural diversity. The new designs are also a lesson in visual storytelling; they invite you on a journey to discover each of these glorious regions.” Khoja says.  

Khoja says he spent months conducting extensive research. “I integrated the landmarks of each region that I felt were the most iconic and synonymous. Each design incorporates the iconography of that area, such as Jeddah, Riyadh, Aseer, Eastern Province and AlUla.” 

Here, Khoja discusses some of the pieces from his latest collection. 

AlUla 

“The ancient languages and rock art are important elements for AlUla because of its rich ancient history of Lihyanite and Nabatean civilizations, so I utilized it for the shirt. Along with the ancient inscriptions and carvings, the AlUla shirt is decorated with famous ancient sites and landmarks such as Hegra and Elephant Rock, along with the integration of the majestic Arabian leopard,” the designer says. 

Aseer  

Khoja’s Aseer silk shirt includes a hand-painted backdrop of Rijal AlMaa village, decorated with Al-Qatt Al-Aseeri patterns, which the designer credits as a major source of inspiration throughout his career. “Aseeri culture has always been a great influence. I grew up reading books about the beautiful crafts and how women of the region specialized in this art,” the designer says, adding that Al-Qatt Al-Assiri was also the inspiration for his debut collection. 

Jeddah  

“Jeddah is a colorful array of iconography representing the bright colors of the coastal city,” Khoja says. “Jeddah is very famous for its breathtaking sunsets and I wanted to present its sunsets as the centerpiece. The shirt also includes the famous fountain as well as architecture from Jeddah’s historical district, Al-Balad.” 

Eastern province 

“With the Eastern Province design, I featured iconic landmarks of the region, with refences to Jabal Qarra in AlAhsa, Ithra and Dammam Well No. 7 — the first oil well discovered in the Kingdom,” says Khoja. 

Riyadh 

“The Riyadh silk shirt is another piece of visual storytelling and features iconic modern-day landmarks of our beloved capital such as KAFD, Kingdom Tower, and Al-Faisaliyah Tower. It infuses the rich traditions of its past with a neon homage to Diriyah and motif patterns taken from old Najdi doors,” Khoja said.  


Saudi Arabia’s Princess Nourah Al-Faisal ‘breathes new life’ into Asprey collection

Updated 15 September 2024
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Saudi Arabia’s Princess Nourah Al-Faisal ‘breathes new life’ into Asprey collection

RIYADH: British luxury company Asprey is continuing its collaboration with Saudi Princess Nourah Al-Faisal, the founder of Nuun Jewels, with a reimagined version of Asprey’s Feather Jewelry Collection.

The new collection, designed by Princess Nourah, comes after she collaborated with the label on a capsule collection of bags in July 2023.

Coloured titanium is complemented by sparkling gemstones ranging from the most delicate hues to rich, saturated tones. (Supplied)

“When I approached this collection, I saw an opportunity to breathe new life into Asprey’s iconic feather designs. I wanted to honor that legacy while infusing it with the playfulness and innovation that’s become synonymous with the brand,” she told Arab News of the new launch.

The original Feather collection draws inspiration from royal heraldry, featuring designs that echo the feathers adorning the Prince of Wales’s heraldic badge, where three white ostrich feathers emerge from a gold coronet.

Now, Princess Noura has put her own spin on the collection with her unique aesthetic visible in the choice of materials.

The collection consists of 13 pieces that can be made to order in different colours and metal combinations. (Supplied)

Coloured titanium is complemented by sparkling gemstones ranging from the most delicate hues to rich, saturated tones, characteristic of Nuun Jewels’ style. From pale pink sapphires and morganite to pastel yellow diamonds, the interplay of colors is something Princess Nourah is known for.

“By experimenting with unexpected colors and materials, I’ve tried to create pieces that feel both fresh and timeless. There’s a subtle nod to Art Deco in there, which I’ve balanced with the contemporary aesthetic of my own brand, Nuun Jewels,” she said.

The Asprey x Nuun Feather Collection is a feather in the cap of Asprey, with its chairman telling Arab News he is keen to ensure the luxury goods house remains synonymous with “innovation” despite its more than 200-year history.

“This collection not only showcases (Princess Nourah’s) visionary creativity but also exemplifies Asprey’s relentless pursuit of excellence and beauty through innovation and tradition,” John Rigas, chairman of Asprey, said.

The collection consists of 13 pieces that can be made to order in different colours and metal combinations, with a statement necklace to be revealed in 2025.

 


Danielle Deadwyler shows off Elie Saab look at ‘The Piano Lesson’ screening in New York

Updated 15 September 2024
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Danielle Deadwyler shows off Elie Saab look at ‘The Piano Lesson’ screening in New York

DUBAI: US actress Danielle Deadwyler showed off a bubblegum pink cocktail dress by Lebanese designer Elie Saab at a screening of “The Piano Lesson” in New York.

The outfit hailed from Saab’s Spring/Summer 2024 ready-to-wear collection and featured a belted waist with a slightly flowing skirt.

Danielle Deadwyler showed off a dress by Lebanese designer Elie Saab in New York. (AFP)

Deadwyler stars in “The Piano Lesson,” an American drama directed by Malcolm Washington, who co-wrote the screenplay with Virgil Williams. Set to hit US theaters on Nov. 8, it will stream worldwide on Netflix on Nov. 22 and stars Samuel L. Jackson, John David Washington, Ray Fisher, Michael Potts, Erykah Badu, Skylar Aleece Smith, and Corey Hawkins.

The film is based on August Wilson’s 1987 Pulitzer Prize–winning play of the same name.

It is set in 1936 Pittsburgh during the aftermath of the Great Depression and follows the lives of the Charles family as they decide what to do with an heirloom, the family piano, which is decorated with designs carved by an enslaved ancestor.

The director spoke to Deadline about the upcoming release, saying: “’The Piano Lesson’ is a story that centers on a brother and sister’s disagreement on what to do with a family heirloom, but underneath the surface is a story about ancestry, legacy, and how the decisions that our ancestors made affect the lives we lived today.

“When I first read the script, I was in a place in my life where I was digitizing a bunch of family photos, and I was looking at the faces of my ancestors, thinking about the lives that they lived and the connection to my own. So when I actually read the text itself, it really spoke to me in a way that forced me to engage with the material in a meaningful way,” he added.

The film also played at the Toronto International Film Festival in September, with Deadwyler hitting the red carpet in a Dior Resort 2025 metallic embroidered dress that riffed on the current Joan of Arc-inspired trend with its armor-style aesthetic. 


French actress Camille Razat steps out in Amina Muaddi heels at ‘Emily in Paris’ photocall

Updated 14 September 2024
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French actress Camille Razat steps out in Amina Muaddi heels at ‘Emily in Paris’ photocall

DUBAI: French actress and model Camille Razat this week attended the “Emily in Paris” season four photocall in Paris, stepping out in a pair of heels by Romanian-Jordanian designer, Amina Muaddi.

The star chose the footwear designer’s “Charlotte Sling” heels that featured a black patent finish. These shoes are designed with a squared oblique toe and include a slingback strap secured with a silver buckle. The structure is supported by a block heel.

Completing her ensemble, Razat, who portrays Camille, one of Emily’s friends in the series, wore a tailored black suit from the French luxury fashion house Celine. The outfit was complemented by a crisp white shirt and a black tie.

The star chose the footwear designer’s “Charlotte Sling” heels that featured a black patent finish. (Getty Images)

The photocall featured the series’ lead, Lily Collins, who plays Emily. Accompanied by her husband, Charlie McDowell, Collins promoted the hit series in a sheer-net Christian Dior dress adorned with a long fringe, complemented by a black blazer and heels. Charlie matched her ensemble with a black suit.

Co-stars, Ashley Park and Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, attended the event, along with series creator Darren Star, director and executive producer, Andrew Fleming, and costume designer, Marylin Fitoussi.

Leroy-Beaulieu wore a full-length, white sequined Saint Laurent gown featuring a high neckline and a halter-style top with a backless detail. The ensemble was complemented by long, black satin gloves.

(L-R) Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, Lily Collins, Darren Star, Ashley Park and Camille Razat attend the "Emily In Paris" Netflix photocall. (Getty Images)

Meanwhile, Park wore a velvet dress from Alessandra Rich featuring a contrasting white satin collar and a row of decorative gold buttons down the front. The dress had a fitted silhouette that ended just below the knee. She accessorized her look with a Judith Leiber bag and pointed black heels with golden accents.

Since launching her eponymous footwear line in August 2018, Muaddi has attracted a loyal following of celebrities including Dua Lipa, Gigi Hadid, Kylie Jenner and Hailey Bieber. Her brand, known for its distinctive footwear, bags and jewelry, has quickly become a favorite among the fashion elite.

Following the launch, Muaddi has seen a series of successful events, notably her collaboration with Rihanna’s Fenty collection. This partnership proved to be immensely successful, earning the Collaborator of the Year award at the 34th FN Achievement Awards in 2020.

A year after this accolade, Muaddi’s influence and success were further recognized when she was named one of Women’s Wear Daily and Footwear News’ 50 Most Powerful Women.


REVIEW: Colin Farrell is resplendent as Batman villain in ‘The Penguin,’ HBO’s new slow-burn crime epic

Updated 14 September 2024
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REVIEW: Colin Farrell is resplendent as Batman villain in ‘The Penguin,’ HBO’s new slow-burn crime epic

  • The spin-off of Matt Reeves’ ‘Batman’ — a lush and fully realized mob drama — drops weekly on OSN from Sept. 20

DUBAI: Audiences will be forgiven for rolling their eyes at yet-another supervillain origin story. But thanks to Colin Farrell’s “The Penguin,” for the first time in a very long time, you won’t walk away from your TV feeling mildly dissatisfied or pining for the long-gone golden age of superhero storytelling.

HBO’s eight-episode limited series — written and created by Lauren LeFranc (“Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D.” and “Chuck”) — tells the story of the rise of Oswald “the Penguin” Cobb, or just “Oz,” from underworld criminal to mob kingpin; and does so in a richly realized manner that will earn comparisons to TV epics such as “The Sopranos.”

The show begins a week after the events of Matt Reeves’ “The Batman” (2022), where the citizens of Gotham are recovering from the deadly floods released by the Riddler, destroying entire neighborhoods and killing thousands. Oz (Farrell, who again disappears into the role thanks to game-changing prosthetics and acting instincts honed over decades) plans to exploit the chaos of the floods and the power vacuum left behind by the recent death of mob boss Carmine Falcone (Mark Strong).

Helping him in his endeavour is young Victor (Rhenzy Feliz), a wannabe criminal who lost everything to the flood. Oz and Victor’s pseudo father-son dynamic forms the beating heart of a tragic story of corruption, greed and violence; and accurately depicts how monsters are not born but created by a society that is sick at its core.

Additionally stirring the pot is Cristin Milioti’s Sofia Falcone, Carmine Falcone’s daughter who is released from Arkham Asylum after a 10-year stint and is looking to take control of her father’s empire.

“The Penguin” sings when Farrell is on screen. The Irish actor gives the role his all, and watching him go from impulsive and rage-filled violence to quiet vulnerability to easy charm and then wounded puppy is a treat to behold.

And it is not always an easy watch, either. An episode dedicated to Sofia’s backstory that examines her life before, during and immediately after her stint in Arkham Asylum makes for a riveting but incredibly grizzly and difficult sit. Milioti handles Sofia’s justified anger and need for control and power with mesmerizing charm and deliciously dark humor.

With “The Penguin,” LeFranc has created something truly transformative, and no amount of superhero fatigue should keep you from watching it.


Music Matters: Who to see at Azimuth  

Updated 13 September 2024
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Music Matters: Who to see at Azimuth  

DUBAI: Here are the major acts performing at this year’s festival, which runs Sept. 19-21 in AlUla. 

James Blake 

(Getty Images)

The UK singer-songwriter, multi-instrumentalist, Grammy winner, and in-demand DJ and producer has managed the rare feat of maintaining both critical and commercial success for the majority of his career since first coming to prominence in his homeland with his eponymous 2011 debut album. That’s a feat which is even more impressive when you consider his penchant for stylistic experimentation, inspired by his love of electronic music. But whatever’s going on musically, his soulful soprano and smart, honest lyrics are a constant — his popularity as a collaborator among hip-hop’s A-listers tells you plenty about the latter. 

Top tracks: “I Need A Forest Fire,” “Coming Back,” “Say What You Will,” “Where’s The Catch?” 

The Blaze 

(Getty Images)

Paris-based ambient electronic music duo consisting of cousins Jonathan and Guilluame Alric. They’re not the most prolific of acts — releasing just eight singles and two albums in seven years — but the high-quality of their output, not just in terms of songs, but visually too (their music videos have led to headlines like Fader’s “Somebody Give The Blaze an Oscar Already”), suggests that’s a wise strategy. Their music is a slow-burn delight that combines elements of pop, house, and dub to create something all their own. “Blaze” is French slang for “name,” but, Guillaume told Fader, “the principal meaning is warm and strong things — love, and hope.” 

Top tracks: “Territory,” “Heaven,” “She,” “Places” 

Ben Bohmer 

(Getty Images)

Critically acclaimed German DJ-producer whose live shows generally see him embellish his tracks with live synthesizers and effects. He’s known for his progressive house sound, which also incorporates indie electronica elements. The Azimuth audience may well get to hear some as-yet-unreleased material too, as his new album, “Bloom,” drops Sept. 27. 

Top tracks: “Breathing,” “Begin Again,” “Home” 

Jamie Jones 

(AFP)

The Los Angeles-based Welsh DJ-producer is a busy man. Not content with putting out a regular stream of his own music and being a good enough DJ to top Resident Advisor’s rankings in 2011, he’s also a member of the band Hot Natured, head of a record label, host of a radio show, and founder of online store House of Hot, which sells clothing, records, and artwork. In an interview with Wales Online, Jones credited his mother for giving him the emotional support to pursue his dreams of a career in music. He recalled that she told him she didn’t care what he did as long as he was happy, “and I think to hear that from your parent at an early age allows you the freedom to not care about some of the other pressures that life throws at you.”  

Top tracks: “Lose My Mind,” “Fine Fine Baby,” “Summertime,” “La Musa” 

Seth Troxler 

(Getty Images)

The American DJ-producer famed for his mammoth live sets topped the Resident Advisor Top 100 DJs poll the year after Jamie Jones, in 2012. Like Jones, he’s a keen entrepreneur — founder of several labels and also owner of a barbeque restaurant in London, Smokey Tails. He’s known primarily on house and techno music, with a solid grounding in the Detroit (he’s a Michigan native) and Chicago sounds. But that’s not the sum of his music by any means. As he told Forbes in an interview last year, “The best genre is no genre. I try really not to be definable.”  

Top tracks: “(still) WON’T4GETU,” “Hate,” “Dead Room; Trust; Dexter” 

Ghostly Kisses 

(Getty Images)

French-Canadian singer-songwriter Margaux Sauve heads up this musical project, which is also a collaboration with producer Louis-Etienne Santais, her real-life partner. Sauve’s singular vocals and gift for melodic melancholy have brought Ghostly Kisses international acclaim, although their most-recent album “Darkroom” saw a shift in atmosphere. Sauve told Montreal Rocks shortly before its release, “So far our music has been felt, mainly, for our introvert fans, but we wanted them also to feel it in their body and be able to move with the music. That was kind of a goal. I think this album is a bit more affirmative and maybe a bit more confident.” In that same interview, Sauve also mentioned that Ghostly Kisses’ fans are “mainly from” overseas, citing Saudi Arabia as one of the countries where her music is most popular. 

Top tracks: “Empty Note,” “Golden Eyes,” “There’s No More Space”