Contemporary Arab art exhibition in London explores identity and displacement

“Hudood: Rethinking Boundaries.” (Photography by Mohamed Somji, courtesy of Barjeel Art Foundation, Sharjah)
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Updated 10 August 2024
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Contemporary Arab art exhibition in London explores identity and displacement

  • ‘Hudood: Rethinking Boundaries’ show runs to Sept. 21
  • Saudi, Palestinian, Emirati, Moroccan artists on display

DUBAI: A new exhibition on contemporary Arab art, featuring more than 40 pieces, has opened at the School of Oriental and African Studies in London.

The 21st-century artworks, which include paintings, photographs and sculptures, are from the notable collection of the Barjeel Art Foundation in Sharjah, UAE.

Among the showcased participants at the exhibition, displayed at the university’s Brunei Gallery, are the Palestinian installation artist Mona Hatoum, Moroccan-Spanish painter Anuar Khalifi, Emirati photographer Lamya Gargash, and multidisciplinary Saudi Arabian artist Manal AlDowayan.




“Hudood: Rethinking Boundaries.” (Photography by Mohamed Somji, courtesy of Barjeel Art Foundation, Sharjah)

Entitled “Hudood: Rethinking Boundaries,” the show runs until Sept. 21 and explores the topical themes of identity and displacement.

“The exhibition delves into how boundaries influence personal and collective identities, particularly in the context of displacement and migration,” the foundation’s creator Sultan Sooud Al-Qassemi, who began teaching at SOAS in 2023, told Arab News.

“It also explores how political and social constructs of boundaries impact individuals and communities, reflecting on themes of conflict, unity, and division,” he said.




“Hudood: Rethinking Boundaries.” (Photography by Mohamed Somji, courtesy of Barjeel Art Foundation, Sharjah)

The exhibition takes place amid anti-immigration riots in England and Northern Ireland, the most violent in the UK in over 10 years.

Significantly, this exhibition has been curated by eight SOAS students, who chose their theme based on personal conversations. They also decided to go for an Arabic title for the show, meaning “boundaries.”

Al-Qassemi said: “The students’ diverse perspectives and innovative ideas brought fresh insights to the exhibition, ensuring it resonated with a wider audience.




“Hudood: Rethinking Boundaries.” (Photography by Mohamed Somji, courtesy of Barjeel Art Foundation, Sharjah)

“This student-led approach also offered them a unique opportunity to engage directly with contemporary art and curatorial practices.

“Throughout the process, we discovered the students’ keen analytical skills and their ability to think critically about complex themes, which enriched the exhibition in unexpected ways.”

Last year, a wide selection of the foundation’s modern artworks was showcased in the British capital at the Christie’s auction house. But this year’s viewing has a different procedure and flavor.

“We are happy to showcase the collection in London for the second year running,” said Al-Qassemi. “London is a major hub for visitors from the Arab world in the summer season so it is an opportunity for them to see art from their region while there.”


Tory Burch taps Loli Bahia for New York show

Updated 10 September 2024
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Tory Burch taps Loli Bahia for New York show

DUBAI: American designer Tory Burch unveiled a collection imbued with the spirit of sport — but without venturing into sportswear — at New York Fashion Week this week, with French Algerian model Loli Bahia walking the runway.

Freedom and movement were reflected in loose-fitting wool pants and wrap dresses, while power shone through in the assembly of different pieces, fabrics and cuts on the models marching down the catwalk, AFP reported.

Bahia showcased one of these looks, donning a sleek, structured black ensemble with asymmetrical cuts and overlapping panels that gave it a modern, deconstructed feel. The top had a wrap-like structure with subtle ties on the front, while the skirt featured a high slit. 

Bahia donned a sleek, structured black ensemble with asymmetrical cuts and overlapping panels that gave it a modern, deconstructed feel. (Getty Images)

The outfit, from the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, was completed with bold, oversized statement earrings and classic black peep-toe heels.

Bahia was joined by Mona Tougaard, who has Danish, Turkish, Somali and Ethiopian ancestry. 

Tougaard graced the runway wearing a sleeveless, cropped black top with a V-neckline, paired with a voluminous, flowy white skirt that had a layered, ruffled design. The skirt featured delicate draping and soft pleats. She wore neutral-tone open-toe heels and had her slicked-back. 

Tougaard graced the runway wearing a sleeveless, cropped black top with a V-neckline, paired with a voluminous, flowy white skirt that had a layered, ruffled design. (Getty Images)

Other standout looks from the show included an ensemble of ultra-light suede pants with a rope belt and a skin-tight sweater patterned in red and white.

A transparent white jersey shirt with ruffles and overly long sleeves was paired with its formal counterpart, brown wool pants.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by TORY BURCH (@toryburch)

With this collection, the Pennsylvania native broke from the style that made her famous, a combination of preppy New England with a touch of the bohemian.

“It’s more about the spirit and the essence of sport,” Burch, whose shows have become a staple of New York Fashion Week, told AFP.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by TORY BURCH (@toryburch)

That means it is about “movement, about freedom, precision” as a starting point, she explained, adding: “The word ‘synchronicity’ was something I thought about.”

 “I wanted to be careful with not having too many different prints, but I wanted it to come across in some textures and the fabrics and the color,” Burch, who this year celebrated the 20th anniversary of her eponymous fashion house, said.


REVIEW: ‘Beetlejuice Beetlejuice’ can’t hold a candle to the 1988 original  

Updated 10 September 2024
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REVIEW: ‘Beetlejuice Beetlejuice’ can’t hold a candle to the 1988 original  

CHENNAI: Often it needs just a single work for a director to emerge out of the shadows and shine. For Tim Burton that happened in 1988 with “Beetlejuice,” a camp horror that straddled the line between comedy and the macabre.

It was a turning point for the 26-year-old director who shot straight to the big leagues and returned to the now-concluded Venice Film Festival with the sequel, “Beetlejuice Beetlejuice,” in September.

With headlining names like Michael Keaton, Winona Ryder and Jenna Ortega, one of the sequel's first scenes shows Italian icon Monica Bellucci as Delores the ghost all cut into pieces lying in several boxes. She begins to pin herself together with a stapler and proceeds to suck the souls of dead men and women, all set to a soundtrack of “Tragedy” by the Bee Gees. Gory but fun — and very on brand for Tim Burton.

The movie begins in a clumsy manner with the characters being arranged in what felt like a chess game, with the key pieces spread out. The sequel follows Winona Ryder's Lydia Deetz, the former goth teen who is now a psychic mediator with her own paranormal television show.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Jenna Ortega (@jennaortega)

Deetz’s supernatural abilities are brushed off by her daughter, Astrid (Ortega), who believes her mother’s visions are pure delusion and soon enough Catherine O’Hara returns to her role as Lydia’s narcissistic artist stepmother.

Keaton reprises his part as the titular ghost, but he was far more eccentric and engaging in the first film — his performance here feels like a watered-down version of what we saw earlier.

This largely sum up what seems to be the point of the film — a nostalgia-fuelled look-back at a high-camp horror for Burton fans to enjoy during the Halloween season.

Unfortunately, the movie feels lethargic, dispirited and soulless. Far from the 1988 work that was peppy and praiseworthy. 


From Sweden to Hollywood, Arab designers shine among celebrities

Updated 09 September 2024
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From Sweden to Hollywood, Arab designers shine among celebrities

DUBAI: From US actress Grace Van Patten flaunting heels by Andrea Wazen to British singer Ellie Goulding hitting the red carpet in a Zuhair Murad gown, celebrities kicked off September in style.

Van Patten opted for the Katy Lace Sling heels by Lebanese footwear designer Andrea Wazen at the season 2 premiere Of Hulu's "Tell Me Lies" in California.

Grace Van Patten opted for the Katy Lace Sling heels by Lebanese footwear designer Andrea Wazen at the season 2 premiere Of Hulu's "Tell Me Lies" in California.
(Getty Images)

The actress, who has appeared in two Netflix films and two Hulu mini-series, paired the black heels with a baby pink slip dress at the premiere.

For her part, Goulding showed off a floor-length number by Lebanese designer-to-the-stars Zuhair Murad, hailing from the label’s Resort 2025 collection. The “Love Me Like You Do” singer chose the dress for an appearance at the Perfect World Foundation's Honorary Conservation Award ceremony in Gothenburg, Sweden, where she was given The Perfect World Foundation Award, following in the footsteps of previous recipients such as Sir David Attenborough, Dr. Jane Goodall, and Prince Albert II of Monaco.

Ragnhild Jacobsson, CEO and co-founder of The Perfect World Foundation, praised Goulding's environmental efforts in a released statement, saying: "Ellie Goulding is a respected force as a climate and nature champion. Her inspirational efforts to mobilize the youth in saving our planet's biological diversity are admirable. We are proud to honor her as this year's recipient."

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Variety (@variety)

In another landmark achievement for an Arab designer, Saudi couturier Mohammed Ashi, the founder of Paris-based Ashi Studio, saw US actress Demi Moore grace the cover of Variety magazine in one of his creations.

Moore was photographed for the cover of the Hollywood title’s September issue in a black gown from Ashi’s Sculpted Clouds collection — his Fall 2024 Couture show.

Ashi became the first couturier from the Gulf to join the Federation de la Haute Couture in Paris as a guest member in 2023 and has since shown his collections on the official Paris Haute Couture Week calendar.


Directors show solidarity with Palestinians during Venice Film Festival speeches

Updated 08 September 2024
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Directors show solidarity with Palestinians during Venice Film Festival speeches

DUBAI: The final ceremony of the Venice Film Festival on Saturday saw multiple winners use their acceptance speeches to express solidarity with the Palestinian people and condemn Israel’s military campaign in Gaza.

“As a Jewish American artist working in a time-based medium, I must note, I’m accepting this award on the 336th day of Israel’s genocide in Gaza and 76th year of occupation,” said US director Sarah Friedland as she accepted the Luigi de Laurentiis prize for best first film for “Familiar Touch.”

“I believe it is our responsibility as filmmakers to use the institutional platforms through which we work to redress Israel’s impunity on the global stage. I stand in solidarity with the people of Palestine and their struggle for liberation,” she continued.

Kathleen Chalfant, Orizzonti Award for Best Actress winner, and Sarah Friedland (R), Lion of the Future – "Luigi De Laurentiis" Venice Award for a Debut Film and the Orizzonti Best Director award winner, pose during a photocall. (AFP) 

The director’s comments were met with strong applause, Deadline reported. Her speech comes amid Israel’s 10-month military campaign in Gaza in which more than 40,000 Palestinians, including more than 16, 000 children, have been killed. The current conflict was sparked by the Oct. 7 Hamas attack on Israel, in which 1,139 were killed, including 36 children.

Palestinian filmmaker Scandar Copti accepted the best screenplay prize in the Horizons section for his films “Happy Holidays.”

“I stand here deeply honored, yet profoundly affected by the difficult times we’re living through over the past 11 months, our shared humanity and moral compass have been tested as we witness the ongoing genocide in Gaza,” he said on stage.

“This painful reality reminds us of the devastating consequences of oppression, which is a theme in our film. Our film looks at how moral narratives can bring us together as communities, but also blind us to the suffering of others.”

Meanwhile, “The Room Next Door,” Pedro Almodóvar’s English-language debut starring Julianne Moore and Tilda Swinton, topped the Venice Film Festival and was awarded its Golden Lion award.

 


‘Colonizer to colonized’: Pakistani photographer travels from London to Quetta ‘without flying’

Updated 08 September 2024
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‘Colonizer to colonized’: Pakistani photographer travels from London to Quetta ‘without flying’

  • Danial Shah’s 58-day-journey brought him home to Quetta via trains, ferries, buses and taxis at a cost of $2,509
  • Historic Quetta-London Road was once a popular route for international tourists and considered a ‘gateway’ to Europe

QUETTA: Earlier this year, Danial Shah, a Pakistani photographer and filmmaker currently pursuing a doctorate in visual and performing arts in Brussels, got an idea: to travel from the land of the colonizer, Britain, which had ruled the Indian subcontinent from 1858 to 1947, to the land that was colonized, present day Pakistan — but without flying.

Thus began a journey that took him from London to the southwestern Pakistani town of Quetta, the city of his birth, via trains, ferries, buses and taxis at a cost of $2,509.

“I wanted to start my journey from London, the reason is that Britain ruled our country for a long time, colonized us and it is Britain that gives us [Pakistanis] visas with great difficulty,” Shah, a 35-year-old documentary filmmaker and photographer, told Arab News in an interview in Quetta.

Pakistani photographer and backpacker Danial Shah, who travelled from London to Quetta in 58 days via trains, ferries, buses and taxis, uses his phone in a street in Quetta on September 3, 2024, during an interview with Arab News. (AN Photo)

“So I thought if I get a visa, I will start my journey from the place where the colonizer lives and reach the place which they colonized.”

Spending his early childhood in Quetta, Shah was always thrilled by the stories of foreign travelers who frequented the area and often arrived using what was dubbed the historic Quetta-London Road, once a popular route for international tourists and considered a ‘gateway’ to Europe.

“I often used to see foreigners here and when you asked someone their story, they would say, ‘We have come from Germany, from London, traveling through Turkiye and Iran’,” Shah said. “So, when I found time, I thought I should go on this journey also.”

This map, shared by Pakistani photographer and backpacker Danial Shah, shows his journey from London to Quetta. Shah’s 58-day-journey brought him home to Quetta via trains, ferries, buses and taxis at a cost of $2,509. (Photo courtesy: Danial Sheikh)

Frequent public commuting through the Quetta-London route, stretching over thousands of miles, began after the end of World War I and people even used it to travel to Saudi Arabia to perform Hajj, according to Dr. Irfan Ahmed Baig, a Quetta-based historian and author of the Urdu-language book ‘Quetta My City.’ European tourists choose the route to enter Turkiye via Greece and continued onwards to the Middle East and Asia. The route was diverted to Central Asia from Afghanistan, from where to leads to India and Bangladesh via Pakistan.

“A Quetta-London bound bus service was started in the 1950 but it was suspended due to unknown reasons,” Baig told Arab News. “During the Soviet Union’s incursion on Afghanistan, tourist movement through this route declined due to security reasons.”

Shah’s journey through a stretch of the route also did not come without difficulty as he faced strict border security checks on account of holding a Pakistani passport, considered one of the weakest travel documents according to global rankings, and amid fears about human smuggling and illegal migration.

This photo, posted on August 11, 2024 on Instagram, shows Pakistani photographer and backpacker Danial Shah, who travelled from London to Quetta in 58 days via trains, ferries, buses and taxis, at the Albania Museum in Tirana, Albania. (Photo courtesy: Danial Shah)

“At various border crossing points, I was the only one off-boarded from buses and questioned by border security forces,” he said.

But he powered on and the journey that began in London on July 3 took him through Europe, the Balkans and the Middle East, to Pakistan’s Balochistan province on August 21.

“From London, I traveled to France. From France, I went to Italy, where I took a boat to Croatia. From Croatia, I went to Serbia, Serbia to Bosnia, and from Bosnia to Montenegro, Albania,” the University of Antwerp student said.

“From Albania, I entered Greece. Then I took a boat from Greece to Turkiye and from Turkiye I took a bus to Iran. From Iran I traveled through buses and taxis and reached Pakistan.”

He said he was grateful for the people he met along the way and the hospitality and warmth he was offered.

“I enjoyed Bosnia the most, followed by Albania, and then Turkiye and Iran, because their manner of hospitality is similar to our Quetta,” Shah said.

His next plan is to save up for journeys to ever new countries and cultures.

This photo, posted on August 22, 2024 on Instagram, shows Pakistani photographer and backpacker Danial Shah, who travelled from London to Quetta in 58 days via trains, ferries, buses and taxis, in Iran. (Photo courtesy: Danial Shah)

“I wish to plan a year-long journey after saving some money to see more countries and additional stay,” Shah said, “because I met many people who were on the same route but traveling to Central Asia via Iran and Afghanistan to Vietnam.”