Recipes for Success: Chef Mo Ponzo talks butter, balance and Bolognese

Mo Ponzo is the brand chef at Berenjak UAE. (Supplied)
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Updated 30 August 2024
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Recipes for Success: Chef Mo Ponzo talks butter, balance and Bolognese

DUBAI: Kenyan-born Italian-Somali chef Mohamed “Mo” Ponzo has carved out a distinguished career in Michelin-starred restaurants and other top-tier establishments. 

His passion for cooking was sparked in the family kitchen, where he cooked alongside his grandmother, aunt, and sisters. One of his earliest memories is of cutting mango — his favorite fruit — which also resulted in his first knife injury aged just four. 

Ponzo always enjoyed the family coming together around the dinner table, sampling the home-cooked dishes. He says he believes cooking to be “the purest form of love.” 




Berenjak UAE is an outpost of the acclaimed London restaurant. (Supplied)

A defining moment came when, aged 10, he found himself cooking for his grandmother and great-grandmother while the family was away. The only dish he could prepare was tomato sauce with fresh peas and a store-bought Somali bread called mufoo.  

“I couldn’t feed the people I loved properly,” he recalls. It was then that he made a promise to himself: “In the future, I would be able to cook anything I want for the people I love.” 

Ponzo has gone on to gain industry recognition including a spot on season 15 of “Masterchef: The Professionals” and being named a Rising Star by Soho House in 2018.  

Today, Ponzo is the brand chef at Berenjak UAE — an outpost of the acclaimed London restaurant. His branch was awarded a Bib Gourmand by the Michelin Guide this year.  




Indian lamb. (Supplied)

Here, he discusses common kitchen mistakes and his favorite dish, and offers a chocolate mousse recipe. 

What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?  

Always taste your food as you cook and adjust seasoning accordingly. This helps ensure your dish is well balanced and flavorful at the end.  

What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?  

Fresh herbs are always good, but for me it’s butter. Always add loads of butter. It’s so versatile. At different temperatures, it has different aromas and characteristics. A tablespoon of butter can make a huge difference in a dish.   

When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?  

I think it’s natural for people who are passionate about food to notice details when they’re eating out. 




Saddle of salt marsh lamb. (Supplied)

What’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants?  

Inconsistency. You can go one day and it’s perfect and during your next visit it’s a totally average experience. Restaurants can achieve greater consistency by being in constant touch with their suppliers and demanding the best produce available, ensuring top quality on a daily basis. And, most importantly, training their team to detect and maintain that consistency.  

What’s your favorite cuisine? 

I enjoy Indian and classical French cuisines for their bold flavors and use of many cooking techniques.  

What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home? 

Linguine with tomato and anchovy sauce with loads of olive oil and parsley. It’s healthy and packed with flavor, and it’s quick to make. 

What behavior by customers most annoys you? 

Asking to amend or rearrange a dish that has taken a chef many hours to develop. It definitely changes the experience and the taste that the chef was trying to convey to his customers. Obviously if it’s due to allergies then that’s completely fine. Another thing is being rude to waitstaff.  




His branch was awarded a Bib Gourmand by the Michelin Guide this year. (Supplied)

What’s your favorite dish to cook and why? 

My favorite dish would be my auntie’s spaghetti Bolognese. Every day after school, I hoped it would be a spaghetti Bolognese day. I have watched — and helped — her make it a hundred times, but I still cannot make it as good as her. She just has her own touch.  

What’s the secret to a great kabab? 

There’s no real secret to be honest. It’s about the quality of the meat and good charcoal. Quality is always key. 

As a head chef, what are you like? 

Maintaining a balance between being assertive and supportive is crucial in any leadership role. 

RECIPE: Chef Mo’s chocolate mousse  




Chocolate mousse. (Supplied) 

(NOTE: Requires ice cream machine and blow torch) 

INGREDIENTS 

For the chocolate mousse: 150g butter (unsalted); 300g dark chocolate (74%); 4 egg yolks; 6 egg whites 

For the sorbet: 500g strawberry purée; 500g water; 200g sugar; 30g glucose; 150g lemon verbena; 5g Stabilizer  

For the lemon verbena gel: 200g lemon verbena; 300g water; 100g sugar; 6g agar agar  

For the chocolate soil: 100g plain flour; 100g white caster sugar; 100g unsalted butter; 25g cocoa powder   

For the wild strawberries: 200g wild strawberries; 100g lemon verbena; 1 lemon; 10g sugar  

INSTRUCTIONS:  

For the mousse:  

1) Melt the chocolate and butter together, cool slightly, then add the egg yolks and whisk. 

2) In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites until a stiff peak forms. 

3) Fold the egg whites and the chocolate mixture together. 

4) Pipe into round ring molds and set. 

5) Place in fridge until set. 

For the sorbet:  

1) Place the water, sugar and glucose in a pan and bring to boil. Add the verbena and take off the heat. Allow to rest for about 10 minutes. 

2) Add the strawberry purée and stabilizer.  

3) Pour the mixture into the sorbet machine and churn until set.  

For the gel:  

1) Place the verbena, water, and sugar in a blender and blend for one minute. 

2) Transfer the mixture to a pot and bring to the boil. Add the agar agar and boil for two minutes.  

3) Transfer to a tray and set in the blast chiller.  

4) Once set, blend the gel till it becomes smooth, then pass through a sieve. 

5) Place it in a squeezy bottle.  

For the chocolate soil:  

1) Preheat oven to 165°C 

2) Place all the ingredients in a large mixing bowl and mix until you get a crumbly texture 

3) Transfer to a tray and place in preheated oven. Bake for 20 minutes.   

4) Transfer to a container and keep at room temperature. 

For the strawberries:  

Place the strawberries, sugar, verbena leaves, lemon zest and lemon juice in a bowl. Place in the fridge until you are ready to serve.  

Serving:  

1) Make sure the sorbet and chocolate mousse are set. 

2) Remove the chocolate mousse from the mold using a blow torch (briefly warming the outside of the molds so the mousse comes out easily).   


French actress Camille Razat steps out in Amina Muaddi heels at ‘Emily in Paris’ photocall

Updated 14 September 2024
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French actress Camille Razat steps out in Amina Muaddi heels at ‘Emily in Paris’ photocall

DUBAI: French actress and model Camille Razat this week attended the “Emily in Paris” season four photocall in Paris, stepping out in a pair of heels by Romanian-Jordanian designer, Amina Muaddi.

The star chose the footwear designer’s “Charlotte Sling” heels that featured a black patent finish. These shoes are designed with a squared oblique toe and include a slingback strap secured with a silver buckle. The structure is supported by a block heel.

Completing her ensemble, Razat, who portrays Camille, one of Emily’s friends in the series, wore a tailored black suit from the French luxury fashion house Celine. The outfit was complemented by a crisp white shirt and a black tie.

The star chose the footwear designer’s “Charlotte Sling” heels that featured a black patent finish. (Getty Images)

The photocall featured the series’ lead, Lily Collins, who plays Emily. Accompanied by her husband, Charlie McDowell, Collins promoted the hit series in a sheer-net Christian Dior dress adorned with a long fringe, complemented by a black blazer and heels. Charlie matched her ensemble with a black suit.

Co-stars, Ashley Park and Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, attended the event, along with series creator Darren Star, director and executive producer, Andrew Fleming, and costume designer, Marylin Fitoussi.

Leroy-Beaulieu wore a full-length, white sequined Saint Laurent gown featuring a high neckline and a halter-style top with a backless detail. The ensemble was complemented by long, black satin gloves.

(L-R) Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, Lily Collins, Darren Star, Ashley Park and Camille Razat attend the "Emily In Paris" Netflix photocall. (Getty Images)

Meanwhile, Park wore a velvet dress from Alessandra Rich featuring a contrasting white satin collar and a row of decorative gold buttons down the front. The dress had a fitted silhouette that ended just below the knee. She accessorized her look with a Judith Leiber bag and pointed black heels with golden accents.

Since launching her eponymous footwear line in August 2018, Muaddi has attracted a loyal following of celebrities including Dua Lipa, Gigi Hadid, Kylie Jenner and Hailey Bieber. Her brand, known for its distinctive footwear, bags and jewelry, has quickly become a favorite among the fashion elite.

Following the launch, Muaddi has seen a series of successful events, notably her collaboration with Rihanna’s Fenty collection. This partnership proved to be immensely successful, earning the Collaborator of the Year award at the 34th FN Achievement Awards in 2020.

A year after this accolade, Muaddi’s influence and success were further recognized when she was named one of Women’s Wear Daily and Footwear News’ 50 Most Powerful Women.


REVIEW: Colin Farrell is resplendent as Batman villain in ‘The Penguin,’ HBO’s new slow-burn crime epic

Updated 14 September 2024
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REVIEW: Colin Farrell is resplendent as Batman villain in ‘The Penguin,’ HBO’s new slow-burn crime epic

  • The spin-off of Matt Reeves’ ‘Batman’ — a lush and fully realized mob drama — drops weekly on OSN from Sept. 20

DUBAI: Audiences will be forgiven for rolling their eyes at yet-another supervillain origin story. But thanks to Colin Farrell’s “The Penguin,” for the first time in a very long time, you won’t walk away from your TV feeling mildly dissatisfied or pining for the long-gone golden age of superhero storytelling.

HBO’s eight-episode limited series — written and created by Lauren LeFranc (“Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D.” and “Chuck”) — tells the story of the rise of Oswald “the Penguin” Cobb, or just “Oz,” from underworld criminal to mob kingpin; and does so in a richly realized manner that will earn comparisons to TV epics such as “The Sopranos.”

The show begins a week after the events of Matt Reeves’ “The Batman” (2022), where the citizens of Gotham are recovering from the deadly floods released by the Riddler, destroying entire neighborhoods and killing thousands. Oz (Farrell, who again disappears into the role thanks to game-changing prosthetics and acting instincts honed over decades) plans to exploit the chaos of the floods and the power vacuum left behind by the recent death of mob boss Carmine Falcone (Mark Strong).

Helping him in his endeavour is young Victor (Rhenzy Feliz), a wannabe criminal who lost everything to the flood. Oz and Victor’s pseudo father-son dynamic forms the beating heart of a tragic story of corruption, greed and violence; and accurately depicts how monsters are not born but created by a society that is sick at its core.

Additionally stirring the pot is Cristin Milioti’s Sofia Falcone, Carmine Falcone’s daughter who is released from Arkham Asylum after a 10-year stint and is looking to take control of her father’s empire.

“The Penguin” sings when Farrell is on screen. The Irish actor gives the role his all, and watching him go from impulsive and rage-filled violence to quiet vulnerability to easy charm and then wounded puppy is a treat to behold.

And it is not always an easy watch, either. An episode dedicated to Sofia’s backstory that examines her life before, during and immediately after her stint in Arkham Asylum makes for a riveting but incredibly grizzly and difficult sit. Milioti handles Sofia’s justified anger and need for control and power with mesmerizing charm and deliciously dark humor.

With “The Penguin,” LeFranc has created something truly transformative, and no amount of superhero fatigue should keep you from watching it.


Music Matters: Who to see at Azimuth  

Updated 13 September 2024
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Music Matters: Who to see at Azimuth  

DUBAI: Here are the major acts performing at this year’s festival, which runs Sept. 19-21 in AlUla. 

James Blake 

(Getty Images)

The UK singer-songwriter, multi-instrumentalist, Grammy winner, and in-demand DJ and producer has managed the rare feat of maintaining both critical and commercial success for the majority of his career since first coming to prominence in his homeland with his eponymous 2011 debut album. That’s a feat which is even more impressive when you consider his penchant for stylistic experimentation, inspired by his love of electronic music. But whatever’s going on musically, his soulful soprano and smart, honest lyrics are a constant — his popularity as a collaborator among hip-hop’s A-listers tells you plenty about the latter. 

Top tracks: “I Need A Forest Fire,” “Coming Back,” “Say What You Will,” “Where’s The Catch?” 

The Blaze 

(Getty Images)

Paris-based ambient electronic music duo consisting of cousins Jonathan and Guilluame Alric. They’re not the most prolific of acts — releasing just eight singles and two albums in seven years — but the high-quality of their output, not just in terms of songs, but visually too (their music videos have led to headlines like Fader’s “Somebody Give The Blaze an Oscar Already”), suggests that’s a wise strategy. Their music is a slow-burn delight that combines elements of pop, house, and dub to create something all their own. “Blaze” is French slang for “name,” but, Guillaume told Fader, “the principal meaning is warm and strong things — love, and hope.” 

Top tracks: “Territory,” “Heaven,” “She,” “Places” 

Ben Bohmer 

(Getty Images)

Critically acclaimed German DJ-producer whose live shows generally see him embellish his tracks with live synthesizers and effects. He’s known for his progressive house sound, which also incorporates indie electronica elements. The Azimuth audience may well get to hear some as-yet-unreleased material too, as his new album, “Bloom,” drops Sept. 27. 

Top tracks: “Breathing,” “Begin Again,” “Home” 

Jamie Jones 

(AFP)

The Los Angeles-based Welsh DJ-producer is a busy man. Not content with putting out a regular stream of his own music and being a good enough DJ to top Resident Advisor’s rankings in 2011, he’s also a member of the band Hot Natured, head of a record label, host of a radio show, and founder of online store House of Hot, which sells clothing, records, and artwork. In an interview with Wales Online, Jones credited his mother for giving him the emotional support to pursue his dreams of a career in music. He recalled that she told him she didn’t care what he did as long as he was happy, “and I think to hear that from your parent at an early age allows you the freedom to not care about some of the other pressures that life throws at you.”  

Top tracks: “Lose My Mind,” “Fine Fine Baby,” “Summertime,” “La Musa” 

Seth Troxler 

(Getty Images)

The American DJ-producer famed for his mammoth live sets topped the Resident Advisor Top 100 DJs poll the year after Jamie Jones, in 2012. Like Jones, he’s a keen entrepreneur — founder of several labels and also owner of a barbeque restaurant in London, Smokey Tails. He’s known primarily on house and techno music, with a solid grounding in the Detroit (he’s a Michigan native) and Chicago sounds. But that’s not the sum of his music by any means. As he told Forbes in an interview last year, “The best genre is no genre. I try really not to be definable.”  

Top tracks: “(still) WON’T4GETU,” “Hate,” “Dead Room; Trust; Dexter” 

Ghostly Kisses 

(Getty Images)

French-Canadian singer-songwriter Margaux Sauve heads up this musical project, which is also a collaboration with producer Louis-Etienne Santais, her real-life partner. Sauve’s singular vocals and gift for melodic melancholy have brought Ghostly Kisses international acclaim, although their most-recent album “Darkroom” saw a shift in atmosphere. Sauve told Montreal Rocks shortly before its release, “So far our music has been felt, mainly, for our introvert fans, but we wanted them also to feel it in their body and be able to move with the music. That was kind of a goal. I think this album is a bit more affirmative and maybe a bit more confident.” In that same interview, Sauve also mentioned that Ghostly Kisses’ fans are “mainly from” overseas, citing Saudi Arabia as one of the countries where her music is most popular. 

Top tracks: “Empty Note,” “Golden Eyes,” “There’s No More Space” 


‘The Camel Through the Ages’ exhibition opens at Ithra 

Updated 13 September 2024
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‘The Camel Through the Ages’ exhibition opens at Ithra 

  • New exhibition ties in with Ministry of Culture’s Year of the Camel 

DHAHRAN: The King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture (Ithra) is currently hosting “The Camel Through the Ages” exhibition at its Dhahran headquarters in collaboration with the Riyadh-based Layan Cultural Foundation. The show runs until Nov. 1 in a year designated by the Ministry of Culture as the Year of the Camel. 

“Camels have long occupied a special place in the societies of the Arabian Peninsula, including the kingdom of Saudi Arabia; they were a means of transportation across vast distances, crossing mountains, valleys, and deserts, similar to ship movements within the sea waves,” Ithra said in a statement.  

In an emotional keynote speech at the opening of the exhibition, LCF founder, Prince Faissal bin Abdullah bin Mohammed, expressed the significance of the camel to the Kingdom’s cultural heritage and as a symbol of strength and resilience. 

Prince Faissal bin Abdullah at the opening of 'The Camel Through the Ages.' (Supplied)

Ghada Al-Tobaishi, executive director of the LCF said: “We are very pleased to cooperate with Ithra (on this) exhibition. This academic and cultural project aims to enrich the knowledge of many important facts of cultural heritage of past eras.” 

Last year, the LCF published a two-volume Arabic-language book about camels, in cooperation with the King Abdulaziz Public Library. That was the inspiration for the current exhibition at Ithra. Some of the works were commissioned specifically for the exhibition, while others were part of the book. The show is curated by Kumail Muhammed Almusaly with the help of Maryam Al-Dossary. 

“We, at Ithra, reached out to Layan Cultural Foundation to collaborate on an exhibit specifically for the Year of the Camel,” Almusaly told Arab News. “And it fits very well with the intent of this gallery, which focuses on the history of Saudi Arabia. 

Digital mosaics created at the Layan Cultural Foundation for 'The Camel Through the Ages.' (Supplied)

“We came up with five themes in order to create a journey in which the visitor could flow freely between the artworks — it is not a linear journey,” he added. 

The five themes are: the camel as an iconic symbol of the Arabian identity; the camel as a meditative or spiritual connection — especially through Qur’anic verses; the camel as a source of pride in camel races and as part of the family; camels as part of oral or folk history; and camels as a companion, in times of rest and travel.  

The first thing visitors see on entering the exhibition space is a collection of paintings, including a 2013 work by Saudi artist Abdulrahman Al-Soliman entitled “The Camel is not a Ship.” 

'The Camel Through the Ages,' the two-volume book that was the inspiration for the exhibition. (Supplied)

“This is a statement by a pioneering artist,” Almusaly said. “(It’s) a piece that ‘corrects’ our perception toward camels. He is using text over the painting, which states that the camel is ‘not the ship of the desert.’ He wants to convert that perception back to the reality that the camel is a creature — it is not an object.” 

This section of the exhibition also includes digital mosaics created by the LCF, alongside works from international and local artists. “There is a part where we switch to how Western artists have looked at Eastern culture — how they are examining the camel and Arabic culture from their perspective,” Almusaly explained. 

After the paintings, the show moves on to sculptures of various styles and sizes, to photographs, to old coins and a few traditional garments. Arabic calligraphy is a part of many of the pieces. 

According to Almusaly, the LCF has been instrumental in “maintaining culture, maintaining history and preserving culture through these materials,” bringing in experts to examine each object and in order to elevate our overall understanding of the camel. 

The exhibition provides an opportunity to examine the camel through the eyes of various artists, and through a visual language that is steeped in Saudi identity, highlighting the vital role the camel has played in the Kingdom’s cultural and economic progress throughout history. 


Saudi rapper Asayel discusses her debut single, ‘Asliyah’ 

Updated 13 September 2024
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Saudi rapper Asayel discusses her debut single, ‘Asliyah’ 

DUBAI: Saudi rapper, singer and songwriter Asayel Bishi (who uses just her first name as an artist) has released her debut single, “Asliyah” on MDLBeast Records. In it, according to a press release, she “addresses naysayers and doubters with a playful smirk, her words laced with Hejazi slang (Bishi was born and raised in Makkah but now lives in Jeddah) and a wisdom beyond her years.” 

The song is billed as “a statement of intent” and will serve, for most, as an introduction to Bishi’s music. Her flow, on this track at least, is deliberate, closer to a spoken-word performance than a rap. And that was a conscious decision, she says.  

She released her debut single, “Asliyah” on MDLBeast Records. (Supplied)

“I’m actually telling a story. I’m not really rapping and I’m not singing,” she says. “It’s like I’m talking to someone. This is stuff that really happened to me and stuff that I really want people to know. I’m basically telling how people have mocked my style. And the reasons why they don’t like my style. And at the end, I’m saying, like, ‘OK. I’m here. And I’m entering the scene.’” 

The colorful accompanying video was shot on the streets of Jeddah.  

“All the locations in the video are very famous (here). The director (Ahmed Lebleb) wanted to reflect the image that, here in Jeddah, you can do these (creative) things. It’s not just about the beach and swimming,” Bishi explains.  

The colorful accompanying video was shot on the streets of Jeddah. (Supplied)

“Asliyah,” Bishi tells Arab News, was the first song she wrote in Arabic.  

“When I started out, I was writing in English, but when I started working with MDLBeast, they told me, ‘OK, now you need to focus on the Arabic side because you need to communicate with your community,’” she says. “They also told me about other artists — local artists — I should be listening to, like Moayad and Dafencii.”  

It’s been an inspiring change, Bishi explains. “I have purpose now,” she says. “I want to do it to improve myself, but also to encourage other girls to go out and to sing, to perform, to write, to rap… to build this female music community.”