South Korea: easy on the eye, not so easy on the wallet 

Seoul — the capital city — is large, clean, and very Western. (Shutterstock)
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Updated 11 October 2024
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South Korea: easy on the eye, not so easy on the wallet 

  • It’s deservedly popular with tourists from the Gulf, but make sure to watch your budget 

DUBAI: First off, a trip to South Korea is expensive. There’s no two ways about it. A return trip from Dubai costs in excess of $2,300 unless you opt to spending two days travelling in each direction. I chose the former. 

There’s a perception that if you love Japan, you’ll also love South Korea. In fact, I found that South Korea was nothing like Japan. But why should it be? The Japanese dynasty ended a long time ago. Korea feels more humble, less in-your-face. 

Seoul — the capital city — is large, clean, and very Western. The Metro system is busy and frequent, but unlike the public transport networks in the West, it feels safe. People are conscious of each other’s personal space and with a population of just over 10 million they need to be. But there’s no obvious fear of crime, everyone seems to have their heads buried in their phones. (For tourists, that might be because they’re checking their Korean translation app, an absolute necessity.) 




Starfield library. (Shutterstock)

To get the real vibe of this sprawling city — which is not dissimilar to Manhattan in New York — it’s worth walking the skyscraper-lined streets.  

There are coffee shops pretty much everywhere you look. And in the malls, food courts are filled with baked goods, noodles and all varieties of meat. And while the fare is OK, none of it feels especially Asian, and judging by comments made by chefs this writer knows, Korea is not a place for foodies.  

There’s a wide assortment of tours on offer — including a full day at the Demilitarized Zone on the North Korean border, which costs around $100 but is worth the effort and investment just to see across to the North with the guard posts in the distance and the 100-meter-high mast carrying the North Korean flag. You can also walk along a very claustrophobic tunnel dug by the North Koreans into the south. 




Jeju Island. (Shutterstock)

Back in Seoul, the Starfield Library boasts a vast collection of 50,000 books in shelves that scale two floors – a must for those seeking an Instagrammable moment. There’s also a kitsch tribute to the novelty pop hit “Gangnam Style” — if indeed that is your style. 

Seoul’s Anguk area is worth spending some time in; the art galleries and cafés have a youthful buzz and the Artist Bakery offered some beautifully mellow coffee and a huge selection of moreish salted butter bread treats. 

There’s much to see in South Korea outside of Seoul, of course. And a three-hour trip on the bullet train takes you to the small(ish) city of Busan in the south east of the peninsular, where things feel much less Westernized. It’s a city crammed with markets and malls, selling anything and everything.  

Find a hotel overlooking the water — there’s a lot of it and the fish market offers the chance to eat pretty much anything that is found in there. Be warned though, this place might look like a budget meal awaits you, but you can easily spend in excess of $40 for some octopus and something called “spoon worm” sashimi — the latter resembling a very particular internal organ. 




Gamcheon Cultural Village. (Shutterstock)

Gamcheon Cultural Village — an assembly of narrow lanes and small pastel-colored houses on the side of a hill — provides stunning views down the valley towards the sea; another place for Insta-moments. And the Songdo cable car is worth a ride for the equally spectacular photo-ops. 

Busan also provides plenty of opportunity to sample authentic and delicious Korean street food, just don’t be put off by the aesthetics of some of the outlets.  

My final stop was Jeju Island — an hour away by plane — where I spent a few days ambling about, taking in the beautiful coastline with its jagged volcanic rocks. From the many bus tours on offer, the east and south were the highlights. The Yeha Bus Tour is particularly good, with stops including Stone Park, an ancient village, and the 600-step climb up Seongsan Sunrise Peak for some stunning panoramic views of the volcanic crater and surrounding area (followed by the slow hobble back down). 

South Korea is certainly a destination worth visiting, but with a necessary proviso: Make sure you have plenty of disposable income so you can create memories that don’t break the bank.  


Showtime: The best television of 2024  

Updated 26 December 2024
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Showtime: The best television of 2024  

  • From warlords in feudal Japan, through tender comedy and banking chaos, to a stalker in Scotland 

‘Shogun’ 

Historical drama “Shogun” was reportedly years in the making, and it shows. Each episode is like its own mini big-budget movie. Few foreign-language shows (the majority of the dialogue is Japanese) have managed to grab the attention of the Western world in the way “Shogun” has. The adaptation of James Clavell’s 1975 novel centers on John Blackthorne (Cosmo Jarvis), loosely based on the English navigator William Adams, who became a samurai for the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate in the early 17th century. But it’s the women, particularly Blackthorne’s translator Lady Mariko (a hugely impressive Anna Sawai) who are the real heroes of the show, which is a beautifully paced mix of political intrigue and brutal combat. 

‘Industry’ 

The high-stakes, high-paced financial drama’s third season was its best yet, as the stress levels of the employees of London investment bank Pierpoint & Co skyrocketed. The introduction of Kit Harington as Henry Muck (no, not Musk, definitely not. Right?) — the horribly wealthy, horribly privileged creator of a green-energy startup whose doomed desperation to be liked was a constant source of glee for viewers — was a stroke of genius, as was the jaw-dropping chaos of the finale, stunning not least because there had already been so many instances of jaw-dropping chaos throughout that it was a surprise they had anything left. But “Industry” always seems to have plenty more in the tank. Roll on season four. 

‘Slow Horses’ 

No, the fourth season of Apple TV+’s espionage drama didn’t really break any new ground. But when what’s in place is already so good, why mess with it? Gary Oldman continues to have a ball as the foul-mouthed, foul-smelling former superspy Jackson Lamb, lording it over his ragtag crew of MI5 cast-offs in Slough House, and his team of misfits continue to defy expectations by actually being quite good at spy work — even if only by accident at times. The show continues to mine familiar tropes of the genre, but also continues to make them feel fresh thanks to brilliant performances and direction, and the strength of the source material — Mick Herron’s novels. 

‘Somebody Somewhere’ 

Rarely have big themes been tackled with such lightness and joy as in Hannah Bos’ and Paul Thureen’s coming-of-middle-age comedy drama. The third (and sadly final) season of this underrated gem keeps up the remarkable consistency of the previous two, and the remarkable Bridget Everett continues to shine as the main protagonist, forty-something Sam — a flawed but entirely relatable woman searching for acceptance and love, while continually self-sabotaging. The supporting cast are equally brilliant, and fans will feel bereft at their disappearance. 

‘Baby Reindeer’ 

Back in the spring, Richard Gadd’s autobiographical drama was the most high-profile show in the world — though not always for the reasons its creator — or Netflix — would have wanted. The streamer’s ethical failures aside, its water-cooler status was earned just as much by Gadd’s raw depiction of a wannabe comedian (himself) and his relationship with a female stalker, Martha (a superb, emotionally harrowing performance by Jessica Gunning). Equal parts hilarious and horrifying, this is one of the most original shows in years and Gadd’s performance and writing are both unflinchingly self-aware.  

‘Only Murders in the Building’ 

The fourth season of the comedy drama about an unlikely trio of true-crime podcasters (Steve Martin, Martin Short, Selena Gomez) was arguably it strongest since its debut run, helped in no small part by its introduction of a host of new guest stars (Zach Galifianakis, Eva Longoria, and Eugene Levy) and returning ones (Meryl Streep and Paul Rudd, among others). This season’s murder investigation was deeply personal, and allowed the main characters to show greater depth than ever before, while retaining the sparkling comic chemistry between the three of them.  

‘Fallout’ 

Adaptations of post-apocalyptic video games are proving hugely popular with viewers. “The Last of Us” was one of 2023’s finest shows, and the more cartoonish, but equally violent, “Fallout” thrilled us this year. Set in an alternate history in which a nuclear exchange between the US and China in 2077 drove many survivors underground into bunkers known as Vaults, “Fallout” centers on Lucy (Ella Purnell), who, more than two centuries after the bombs dropped, ventures into the wasteland that used to be Los Angeles to hunt for her father, who has been kidnapped by raiders. Having been raised in the safety and the — outwardly, at least — polite society of the Vault, Lucy is, let’s say, underprepared for the horrors that await.  

‘Ripley’ 

Steven Zaillian’s adaptation of Patricia Highsmith’s psychological crime thriller novel “The Talented Mr. Ripley” is beautifully shot in black-and-white, with gorgeous, lingering shots of the Italian coast. If that sounds a bit highbrow, don’t worry; the plot explores the basest of human instincts. Tom Ripley (the excellent Andrew Scott), a down-on-his-luck con-man in 1960s New York, is hired by the wealthy Herbert Greenleaf to convince his wayward son Dickie to return home from Italy, where he is living a leisurely life at his father’s expense. But when Ripley sees Dickie’s leisurely luxurious life for himself, he decides he’d quite like a piece (or considerably more) of it. 


Screen stars: The best films of 2024 

Updated 26 December 2024
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Screen stars: The best films of 2024 

DUBAI: From action-packed escapism to bone-chilling mundanity, here are our picks from this year’s big-screen offerings. 

‘The Zone of Interest’  

Strictly speaking a 2023 film, but it came out too late to make last year’s list (although not too late to earn the Best International Feature Film Oscar this year). Jonathan Glazer’s extraordinary take on the story of the Auschwitz commandant Rudolf Höss, his wife Hedwig and their family and entourage as they make their home next to the concentration camp where unthinkable horrors are perpetrated contains no scenes of those horrors, but their sounds form a continual backdrop to this subtle portrayal of what philosopher Hannah Arendt famously called “the banality of evil.” 

‘Inside Out 2’ 

Pixar’s summer offering was a delight: moving, silly, and profound. Riley, the young girl who — along with her five personified emotions — was the star of 2015’s beloved “Inside Out,” is entering her teenage years, which usher in a host of new emotions (Anxiety, Ennui, Embarrassment and Envy), disturbing the delicate balance achieved by the veterans Joy, Sadness, Anger, Fear and Disgust, who must now recalibrate to try and help Riley deal with adolescence.  

‘Dune: Part Two’ 

The second instalment in Denis Villeneuve’s adaptation of Frank Herbert’s epic sci-fi work follows Paul Atreides (Timothee Chalomet) as he attempts to earn the trust of the native Fremen people of the desert planet Arrakis to persuade them to help him take down House Harkonnen, who were responsible for the massacre of Paul’s own house. Love versus duty, religious extremism, and the morality of violence are all explored, but never in a way that detracts from the entertainment, which includes dazzling battle sequences, the love affair between Chalomet and Zendaya’s fierce Fremen woman Chani, and thrilling sandworm rides.  

‘Deadpool & Wolverine’ 

It has its detractors, and many of the criticisms are deserved, but this Marvel buddy comedy is great entertainment — frenetic, often hilarious, and pushing its 15 certificate to the limits. Ryan Reynolds’ titular foul-mouthed antihero takes his fourth-wall-breaking meta self-awareness to crazy new levels, and his connection with co-star Hugh Jackman as the reticent, always-anger-adjacent Wolverine is a joy. It’s not going to win any major awards, but it’s a huge amount of fun. 

‘Furiosa: A Mad Max Saga’ 

This prequel and spin-off to the excellent “Mad Max: Fury Road” was a relative flop at the box office, but that’s no reflection of its quality: Anya Taylor-Joy is excellent in the lead role, finding an emotional connection to Charlize Theron’s portrayal of Furiosa in “Fury Road,” and Chris Hemsworth holds nothing back in his performance as the evil warlord biker Dementus. As usual, director George Miller delivers astounding action sequences, but the screenplay also has real depth.   

‘Challengers’ 

Zendaya steals the show in Luca Guadagnino’s spicy sporty drama. She plays former tennis prodigy Tashi Duncan now coaching her husband, Art, after injury forced her retirement. Art is struggling with form and fitness, and must face his former best friend (and former competitor for Tashi’s affections), Patrick (Josh O’Connor). The heated chemistry between its three stars makes “Challengers” a lot of fun.  


Play it again: The best video games of 2024

Updated 26 December 2024
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Play it again: The best video games of 2024

‘Metaphor: ReFantazio’ 

With its mix of social division, political wheeler-dealing, tragedy and personality-forming insecurities, there was arguably no more of-the-moment game in 2024 than this Japanese RPG set in a medieval fantasy realm inhabited by an array of tribes, where discrimination runs wild and chaos has set in following the death of the king, the exclusive possessor of Royal Magic.  

‘Like a Dragon: Infinite Wealth’ 

The ninth mainline entry in the “Like a Dragon” RPG series was the best yet. It took the action to Hawaii, where Ichiban Kasuga and Kazuma Kiryu team up to help the former reunite with his mother, who is living with cancer. The revamped combat system was a triumph, resulting in free-flowing fighting that always seemed to offer something unexpected. 

‘Astro Bot’ 

This joyous cute-as-you-like PS5 platformer was both nostalgic and wildly inventive, with callbacks to numerous PlayStation characters from the console’s 30-year history. Easily accessible for even novice gamers, but tricky enough to satisfy the most adept, and filled with personality and humor, “Astro Bot” was a great reminder of why video games deserve to be considered art. 


Balad Beast to return to Jeddah with international lineup

Updated 25 December 2024
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Balad Beast to return to Jeddah with international lineup

JEDDAH: Music festival Balad Beast is set to return to Jeddah’s Al-Balad between Jan. 30 – 31 with an international lineup of performers.

The UNESCO World Heritage-listed district will play host to the likes of Grammy-winning 21 Savage, Atlanta rap star Gunna, JID, and 2020 Mercury Album of The Year winner Michael Kiwanuka on day one. Regional artists such as Disco Misr from Egypt and Saudi Arabia-based talents DISH DASH, Gazi, Saoud and Varoo will also perform on Jan. 30.

Day two will feature hip-hop icon Wiz Khalifah, producer Metro Boomin, musical duo Hats & Klaps, and Ghostly Kisses with her ethereal pop sound from Canada. All-female Saudi rock band Seera will hit the stage on Jan. 31.

The festival will also feature immersive art installations — yet-to-be-named contemporary artists and designers will reimagine Al-Balad’s historic architecture with projections, large-scale sculptures, and interactive artworks.

“We are coming back to Balad with really exciting experiences. Fresh music with new and returning acts, and as always, otherworldly immersive experiences inspired by our past, present and future,” said Ahmed Alammary, MDLBEAST’s Chief Creative Officer.

Balad Beast is part of Saudi music entertainment company MDLBEAST's lineup of annual events, including SOUNDSTORM in Riyadh and XP Music Futures in the Saudi capital.

According to MDLBEAST, the historical buildings in the area — some of which are 400 years old — will be protected from potential degradation due to sound testing and strategically placed stages “to minimize any impact on the buildings.”

The houses are made of stones, mined from Arabia Lake, separated by wooden planks to alleviate the heat of the area’s climate. One of its infamous sights that garners attention from tourists is Nassif House. 

In 2024, the festival played host to a similarly high-profile list of performers, including Ty Dolla $ign, Wu-Tang Clan, Major Lazer Soundsystem, Russ, and DJ Snake.


Amina Muaddi celebrates festive milestone ahead of Beyonce show

Updated 25 December 2024
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Amina Muaddi celebrates festive milestone ahead of Beyonce show

DUBAI: Jordanian Romanian shoe designer Amina Muaddi celebrated a major fashion moment this week, taking to Instagram to share her excitement over Beyonce wearing her custom Yigit pumps in a teaser for the star’s NFL Christmas Day Halftime Show on Netflix.

Muaddi shared the video on her Instagram Stories. In the clip, the music icon can be seen wearing the satin heels in black and adorned with studs.

In the clip that Beyonce also shared on her Instagram account, the music sensation was seen holding a banjo, a stringed instrument often linked to folk, country, and bluegrass music. She wore a wide-brimmed black hat paired with sleek sunglasses, a colorful patterned cape featuring red and blue hues, and a rhinestone-adorned top. The outfit was completed with black gloves and a black skirt. 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Beyoncé (@beyonce)

 

“I’m sending you big joy and love on this cowboy Christmas Eve. I’ll see y’all tomorrow, in my city HTX,” Beyonce wrote to her 313 million followers, referring to Houstan, Texas.

In another teaser posted last week, the singer also chose Amina Muaddi heels — the Begum glass pumps.

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Beyoncé (@beyonce)

 

The “Texas Hold ‘Em” singer will headline the Baltimore Ravens-Houston Texans game’s halftime show on Dec. 25, after the Kansas City Chiefs play the Pittsburgh Steelers will play earlier in the day. Both games will feature a special pre-game performance of “All I Want for Christmas” by Mariah Carey.

Beyonce seems to be a fan of part-Arab designer Muaddi. During the singer’s Renaissance World Tour last year, she was spotted in Muaddi’s creations on stage on a number of occasions.

“I’m so happy to be part of this queen’s historic tour. Every time I see her on stage I’m in complete awe of her — the ultimate supernova. Grateful to @beyonce and her team of incredible creatives for these @aminamuaddiofficial moments on stage,” Muaddi wrote on Instagram at the time. 

Muaddi launched her eponymous footwear line in August 2018, approximately one year after departing from her role as co-founder and creative director of luxury footwear label Oscar Tiye. 

The shoemaker’s eponymous label’s distinct pumps, sling-backs, mules, boots and sandals in an array of vibrant colors and holographic designs have since garnered a loyal checklist of famous fans, including Dua Lipa, Gigi Hadid, Kylie Jenner and Hailey Bieber Baldwin.