Inside Elie Saab’s fashion empire ahead of his Riyadh showcase

Fashion designer Elie Saab poses with models after the Elie Saab Spring Summer 2018 show as part of Paris Fashion Week in Jan 2018. (Getty Images)
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Updated 07 November 2024
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Inside Elie Saab’s fashion empire ahead of his Riyadh showcase

  • Ahead of his show in Riyadh this week, Arab News looks back at the acclaimed Lebanese designer’s career

DUBAI: Reinvention is a term the fashion world is very familiar with: Heads of houses come and go, archival signatures are foraged and flipped, collections strategically expanded or cut according to social media impressions or sales success. For most brands there’s a continuous necessity to pivot. Not Elie Saab. The Lebanese designer has cleverly curated an empire with slow, measured precision, bolstered by an absolute belief in the art of craftsmanship. 

“The code of my collections will always remain the same,” the glamour-focused Saab has often stated, referring to his luxury pairing of Western silhouettes with a Middle Eastern flair for ornamentation and embellishment. Rather than reinvent the wheel, he fine-tunes, dreaming up multi-generational investment pieces that are studied, worked and tweaked to perfection — an approach that has garnered him a loyal following and an impressive 45-year legacy.  

To mark this anniversary (and simultaneously show some love to his longtime Saudi supporters), Saab is joining forces with Riyadh Season to host what promises to be an immersive one-of-a-kind fashion spectacle in the Saudi capital on Nov. 13. Titled “1001 Seasons of Elie Saab” — a nod to the famed “One Thousand and One Nights” collection of Arabic folktales — the event will forgo a standard runway presentation in favor of a theatrically orchestrated tableau of models, live music and 300 fresh looks for Fall 2025. 

“We will be preparing something unprecedented and new to mark this important occasion,” Saab said during a press conference in London earlier this year, “and celebrate the city of Riyadh as it continues to support creativity and the diversity of culture in the region.”  

Whether by way of the soundtrack, set design or the clothing itself (which will be styled by former French Vogue editor, Carine Roitfeld), a nod to his hosts’ aesthetic sensibilities seems inevitable. After all, his relationship with the Kingdom is an important one, cemented last year with the opening of a spacious flagship store in VIA Riyadh that carries his most recent ready-to-wear and bridal collections, childrenswear, accessories and fragrances, in addition to a private haute couture salon. The space itself — all white walls, marble floors and plush carpets — was designed and furnished by another of his exploits, Elie Saab Maison. 




Carolina Mendes, Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld, Elie Saab Jr, Designer Elie Saab and Carine Roitfeld attends the Elie Saab Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 28, 2024. (Getty Images)

Such a broad portfolio might be the norm for fashion’s biggest conglomerates with major financial backing, the likes of LVMH or Kering, say, but in Saab’s case, as an independent designer, it’s especially impressive given where he started from. Born and raised in Damour, a coastal suburb of Beirut, he was barely 10 years old when he began teaching himself how to sew. Apart from a single year spent at a fashion school in Paris, his education was shaped by instinct, imagination and circumstance. Long before the rest of the fashion world woke up to their environmental misdemeanours, Saab was dressing his sister in scraps of fabrics from their mother’s closet. Sustainable design was simply a necessity. 

In 1982, aged 18, he opened his own studio in war-torn Beirut — an act of loyalty to the city he refers to as his “Queen” — and navigated his way through a civil war that had been raging in Lebanon since 1975, displacing almost a million people including members of Saab’s own family. His commitment to his heritage, to the Lebanese people, their resilience, optimism and creativity, is unshakeable. Following the Beirut Port blast on Aug. 4, 2020, which caused 218 deaths, thousands of injuries and US$15 billion in property damage, Saab responded with a tribute collection titled “Beyrouth, Source Eternelle.”  




Claudine Saab, designer Elie Saab, Jennifer Lopez and Elie Saab Jr pose at the backstage prior to the Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show. (Getty Images) 

“I want people to talk about Beirut in a positive way,” he told Arab News in March 2021, “and remember that (the city) is not all those bad things they are seeing.” 

Saab’s determination to make the best of a truly bad situation is a common trait in his country where, despite it all, creativity is flourishing. Beirut remains the region’s home of couture, spawning a design collective that includes Zuhair Murad, Georges Hobeika, Georges Chakra and Rabih Kayrouz, plus an ever-expanding roster of rising talent: Racil, Roni Helou, Hussein Bazaza, Cynthia Merhej, and Sandra Mansour, who trained under Saab and recognises his influence within her choice of diaphanous fabrics and delicate embroidery. 

“The biggest lesson I learned (from working with Saab) is the importance of staying true to your vision,” says Mansour. “He has always had a deep understanding of what women want to feel when they wear a dress — powerful, elegant, and confident — and his attention to detail and craftsmanship is unmatched…that’s what makes it timeless.” 

Halle Berry brought Saab to the attention of Hollywood when she accepted her 2002 Academy Award in a standout sheer embroidered gown with a crimson taffeta skirt of his design. Since then, he has found himself dressing everyone from Middle Eastern royalty (Queen Rania of Jordan famously wore one of his gowns for her coronation ceremony in 1999) to Julia Roberts and Beyoncé.  




Halle Berry accepting her 2002 Best Actress Oscar in an Elie Saab gown. (AFP)

“It is true that I know all of them and that we are friends — the person matters to me and how the relationship started and goes on,” Saab told Arab News in March 2021. “When you deal with Meryl Streep, (for example), even with all her glory and despite all the awards she has won, you feel how simple she is. I like people who are modest.” 

“Fast-fashion,” “trend-led” and “disposable” are not part of Saab’s vocabulary and despite an increasingly digitally focused market, he remains one of few designers able to prioritize perfectionism and the personal touch. A year after his Oscars moment, he became the first Arab designer to be admitted to the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, where he continues to present his most creatively elaborate work. For now, though, fashion’s spotlight and the female gaze is set firmly on Saab’s return to Riyadh and a hotly anticipated front row. 


UK, Omani princes launch journey across historic Arabian route

Updated 26 November 2024
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UK, Omani princes launch journey across historic Arabian route

  • Camel trek first taken by British diplomat Bertram Thomas in 1928 to be retrodden by team of six travellers
  • Prince of Wales, crown prince of Oman sponsoring historic coastal journey

LONDON: A group of explorers, backed by royalty, is set to undertake a historic journey, retracing a route across the coast of Oman first trodden by a British diplomat almost a century ago.

The Jewel of Arabia expedition, supported by William, Prince of Wales and Omani Crown Prince Theyazin bin Haitham, will feature six travelers, led by Mark Evans, following in the footsteps of Bertram Thomas, who first made the journey over 42 days in 1928.

Thomas made the trek to document the area and local wildlife, and was congratulated on his achievement by King George V.

The new journey, featuring camels but also modern off-road vehicles, will “raise awareness among young people both in and outside of Oman of the value of Oman’s natural heritage and biodiversity as well as the environmental challenges the country and the wider world face,” The Telegraph reported.

It will also feature podcasts and radio interviews with local stations along the way, meetings with local children and an online tracker so people can view its progress in real time.

Prince William told the modern explorers at the Royal Geographical Society on Monday: “I wish I was able to join you, but will be following very closely.”

He added: “The expedition will walk in the footsteps of British explorer Bertram Thomas and take in the wonderful coastline of Oman.

“They will be able to take in the beauty of Oman, and also see the damage done by climate change.”

Prince William added: “The expedition will not only highlight Oman’s biodiversity and natural heritage, but also symbolize the enduring friendship between our two countries.”

The prince added to guests at the Royal Geographic Society that he would “try and make something happen” regarding a future visit to Oman, teasing: “We’re in the planning process.”

The trek will see daily starts around 5 a.m. local time, and will aim to cross 25-30 kilometers per day. The travelers will sleep under the night sky, surviving in the desert without tents.

Evans, 63, said: “The stars of the show will undoubtedly be the camels.”

He joked that the animals are now in a “camel boot camp” in Oman to prepare for the arduous trek.

Alongside Evans will be Nigel Harling, Ana-Maria Pavalache, Dhirka Al-Mawali, Ibrahim Al-Hasni and Amour Al-Wahibi, all of whom are experienced explorers.

Thomas’ original expedition came at a time when the region was considered one of the world’s most inhospitable, known as Rub Al-Khali, or the “empty quarter.”

He worked for the sultan of Oman, and became the first Westerner to make the journey along the coast, spending much of his spare time exploring the country, navigating harsh terrain and warring local tribes.

Upon completion, he received a congratulatory telegram from George V, and used the experience as the basis for a book, “Arabia Felix,” which contains a foreword by T.E. Lawrence.

Meanwhile, 2025 will also mark 225 years since the signing of a friendship treaty between Britain and Oman.


Made with love — Saudi commission presents works by global artisans

Updated 26 November 2024
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Made with love — Saudi commission presents works by global artisans

  • Northern Ireland, Japan and Mexico among countries represented in International Handicrafts Week
  • Through Banan and other initiatives, the Heritage Commission raises awareness about the importance of handicrafts as part of cultural heritage

RIYADH: The second Saudi International Handicrafts Week — known as Banan — is offering a wealth of live music, interactive experiences and artisanal works from around the world in Riyadh this week.

Running until Nov. 29, the event is organized by the Saudi Heritage Commission and features artists and representatives from over 20 countries, exhibiting alongside the Kingdom’s own talent.

Katherine McDonald, director of Crafts Northern Ireland, told Arab News: “I think the craft of any country (paints) a picture about the people, the landscape, the culture … it’s an important part of the identity of a country. That's why it’s important that we can allow craft makers to flourish, to pass on skills, to train new craft makers, because they’re as important as the food, as the economy.”

The collective, exhibiting in Saudi Arabia for the first time, represents artisans in Northern Ireland whose work ranges from textiles and jewelry to ceramics and furniture. Items from 13 of them are on display at Banan.

“We try to have a range of work that's representative of what makers are doing in Northern Ireland,” McDonald said. “We have textiles made from local wool, ceramics ... there’s always something that allows an artist to express themselves and for people to find something they really like that suits their style.”

Award-winning contemporary silversmith Cara Murphy is largely inspired by the environment to create unique pieces such as bowls, clocks, and candle holders. She is the designer behind the past four Randox Grand National awards, often called the world’s greatest steeplechase.

Jakki Trainor crafts clay works that focus on the word “figment” to depict real or imaginative flora, fauna and folklore, while Joel Smyth creates eclectic pieces of jewelry inspired by European minimalist design, multifunctionality and interaction. 

McDonald said: “Jewelry is always popular for gifting and for yourself. And we also have glass and some wooden articles as well. So, it’s a range of materials.

“This is what’s so interesting to see, what different countries and different artisans have done with the same materials. There’s such diversity. Everything is unique.”  

In addition to the 500 artisans marketing and selling their work, the event features multiple interactive and immersive zones including the handicrafts arts village, a live craft performances pavilion, crafts exhibition and workshops pavilion, a platform for entrepreneurs and craft organizations, and a children’s activities pavilion.

Hailing from Hungary, woodworker Bela Zalai has been honing his craft for over 20 years. For his first visit to the Kingdom, he is exhibiting an array of his work including flutes, bowls, pots, jewelry and chairs. 

Carving a flute at his booth, he told Arab News: “In Hungary, handicrafts is a very rich culture … it’s a very popular thing — pottery and leather work and a lot of things. In these times, everything is too modern and fast … handwork is very personal, unique and valuable.” 

Zalai works as a zoologist, but since he started his handcrafting journey the day-job has taken second place: “Hand work is much more important for me than biology at the moment,” he said.

Through Banan and other initiatives, the Heritage Commission raises awareness about the importance of handicrafts as part of cultural heritage, ensuring they are preserved and passed on.

Saudi International Handicrafts Week is open to the public from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m., except on Monday and Wednesday when hours are 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.


REVIEW: ‘Dead Rising Deluxe Remaster’ offers reanimated chaos in 4K

Updated 26 November 2024
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REVIEW: ‘Dead Rising Deluxe Remaster’ offers reanimated chaos in 4K

LONDON; The “Dead Rising Deluxe Remaster” has arrived, breathing new life into Capcom’s iconic open-world zombie classic.

Almost 20 years after the original’s release, this version strikes a fine balance between a remake and a remaster, modernizing visuals, controls and gameplay while retaining its chaotic charm. With 4K resolution, smoother frame rates and gameplay improvements, “Dead Rising’s” latest iteration has, in a sense, grown up with its audience — although “grown up” might not be the best description for a game where a cactus can be a weapon.

The remaster brings you back to Willamette, Colorado, where you play as the cocky, wise-cracking photojournalist Frank West. His mission? Survive a 72-hour real-time, in-game clock ticking down inside a mall overrun by zombies, with missions to complete, bosses to fight, and absurd items to wield.

The day-night cycle brings shifting challenges and horror-movie ambiance that change the feel of each hour. You’ll often find yourself toggling between planning missions and impulsively grabbing whatever is in sight to fend off the undead. The remaster’s refined graphics and 60fps frame rate make both these approaches more fluid, whether you’re grappling with zombies or sneaking a killer snapshot.

And yes, Frank’s camera skills still matter. In addition to navigating an endless crowd of brain-hungry zombies, the game rewards you for snapping high-quality photos, encouraging you to capture the grotesque and hilarious. This adds an amusing layer of strategy and humor to the game, which doesn’t take itself too seriously. The absurd world of Dead Rising still allows you to dress Frank up in a range of ridiculous costumes, turning him from a somber zombie slayer into a comical hero fighting against the cathedral of consumerism — the mall itself.

As you progress, Frank’s skills evolve, allowing you to transform him into a near-indestructible wrestler, body-slamming zombies and crowd-surfing his way to safety. Missions often involve rescuing NPCs and escorting them to safety, and a roster of larger-than-life “Psychopath” bosses keeps the action intense. Beneath the mindless zombie slaying lies a satirical critique of American consumerism that resonates more with time; the remaster’s updated look adds to the commentary, making the mall’s neon lights and cluttered shelves all the more biting.

Of course, not all issues have been exorcised in this remaster. Some glitches linger, like the odd lift button bug that can render what should be a deadly encounter into an easy escape. Plus, it’s a shame that Capcom didn’t implement a co-op mode — a feature that could have elevated the chaotic fun to new heights.

Ultimately, “Dead Rising Deluxe Remaster” is as humorous as it is brutal, blending laughs with thrilling tension. The game continues to draw players into Frank West’s absurdly dangerous world, now rendered in beautifully gruesome detail. It’s a fantastic journey back to a familiar, zombie-filled playground — ideal for longtime fans and newcomers alike who are ready to face the horde.


Princess Rajwa visits art gallery in Amman with Queen Rania

Updated 25 November 2024
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Princess Rajwa visits art gallery in Amman with Queen Rania

  • Visit marks another public engagement in Princess Rajwa’s calendar
  • Naqsh Collective was founded in 2009 by two sisters, Nisreen and Nermeen Abudail

DUBAI: Saudi-born Jordanian royal Princess Rajwa Al-Hussein visited Amman-based art gallery Naqsh Collective on her first joint engagement with her mother-in-law Queen Rania, on Sunday.

“Exquisite local designs, handcrafted with love. Had a lovely time with Rajwa at the Naqsh Collective workshop yesterday,” Queen Rania’s team posted on Instagram shortly after the visit.

The pair posted in front of an artwork titled “Wall Runner” at the gallery, which presents design works and artworks.

Naqsh Collective was founded in 2009 by two sisters, Nisreen and Nermeen Abudail. The gallery has participated in national and international events such as Milan Design Week, Amman Design Week, Design Days Dubai, and Saudi Design Week.

The visit marks another public engagement in Princess Rajwa’s calendar. Last week she attended a ceremony marking the inauguration of the first ordinary session of the 20th parliament in Amman, her second public appearance since the birth of her first child this summer. 

The royal showed off an elegant black ensemble for the occasion, complete with an oversized belt by Dior and pumps by Chloe. The look was finished off with the Goji mini bag in black by Jill Sander. 

Princess Rajwa was photographed alongside Queen Rania, who showed off a red look courtesy of Maison Valentino and Altuzarra. 

Princess Rajwa made her first public appearance since the birth of Princess Iman bint Al-Hussein bin Abdullah II at a 2026 FIFA World Cup qualification match in October. 

The royal welcomed her first child, Princess Iman, with Crown Prince Hussein bin Abdullah on Aug. 3.

Jordan’s King Abdullah posted a tribute to his granddaughter on social media to mark the occasion. Translated from Arabic, the post read: “I thank God for giving us our first granddaughter Iman bint Hussein. I congratulate beloved Hussein and Rajwa for their newborn.”

Princess Rajwa, who celebrated her 30th birthday in April, is the daughter of Saudi businessman Khalid bin Musaed bin Saif bin Abdulaziz Al-Saif, who died in January this year, and his wife, Azza bint Nayef Abdulaziz Ahmad Al-Sudairi.


Ithra conference in Saudi Arabia shines spotlight on vibrant Islamic arts

Updated 25 November 2024
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Ithra conference in Saudi Arabia shines spotlight on vibrant Islamic arts

  • Conference seeks to highlight how traditional crafts can inspire innovative solutions in areas such as design, business and urban development
  • Adding to the immersive experience, three specially curated films explore the artistry and history of Islamic crafts

DHAHRAN: The King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture, also known as Ithra, is hosting the second Islamic Art Conference from Nov. 25-30.

In partnership with the Abdullatif Al-Fozan Award for Mosque Architecture, the theme of this year’s event is “In Praise of the Artisan.” Featuring 50 participants from 14 countries, including 27 distinguished speakers, the conference will explore the connection between heritage and innovation in Islamic art.

From panel discussions to live demonstrations, and with a diverse lineup of artists, historians, curators and academics, the program offers attendees an opportunity to engage with the artistry and history of Islamic craftsmanship.

There are thought-provoking lectures, hands-on workshops and interactive demonstrations, all designed to immerse visitors in the beauty and intricacy of Islamic art forms. A central theme this year is the vital role played by artisans in preserving cultural heritage while adapting to contemporary challenges.

Through these discussions, the conference seeks to highlight how traditional crafts can inspire innovative solutions in areas such as design, business and urban development.

Running alongside the event is the “In Praise of the Artisan” exhibition. This display of historical artifacts and contemporary works highlight the timelessness of Islamic artistry through media ranging from ornate wood carvings and luminous textiles to intricately painted ceramics and dazzling metalwork. For those eager to learn skills for themselves, there are workshops on crafts such as embroidery, wood carving and sailboat crafting.

Adding to the immersive experience, three specially curated films explore the artistry and history of Islamic crafts, delving into the lives of artisans and the cultural significance of their work. Each screening is followed by a discussion with the filmmakers.

Beyond the main exhibition, Ithra’s plaza will host eight mini-exhibits in collaboration with institutions such as The Heritage Commission, The Royal Institute of Traditional Arts, and The General Authority for the Care of the Two Holy Mosques. These highlight regional crafts from across the Islamic world, such as Turkey and Egypt, emphasizing the event’s global nature.

Prominent voices such as Dr. Mashary Al-Naim, Dr. Mahmoud Erol Kilic and artist Ahmad Angawi will lead debates on the challenges and opportunities artisans face in preserving their crafts in an era dominated by mass production. Topics will include the integration of craftsmanship into modern business models and the role of artisans in sustainable urban development.

The conference also emphasizes the potential of traditional crafts to drive social change. By fostering collaboration between artisans, designers and cultural institutions, it creates pathways for them to thrive in contemporary markets while maintaining their historical integrity.

One highlight is the work of Dhai Ibrahim Al-Otaibi, a rising star in the art of Naqda embroidery. Known for her innovative approach, Al-Otaibi blends the opulence of traditional silver and gold threads with modern fashion aesthetics.

“Naqda embroidery signifies a critical aspect of Saudi cultural identity, especially in the Eastern and Central regions,” Al-Otaibi told Arab News.

“By reinterpreting these methods, I hope to make this craft more accessible to new generations while preserving its authenticity.”

Al-Otaibi began her journey as an apprentice under the guidance of artisan Sarah Al-Dosari and is one of only 14 of Naqda embroidery practitioners in Saudi Arabia. Her contributions to the exhibition not only show her personal artistry but also underscore the enduring relevance of this centuries-old craft.

“In Praise of the Artisan” will continue at Ithra until December 2027, providing plenty of opportunity to experience the splendor of Islamic arts and their evolving role in a modern world.