The milky latex bled from the Mexican rain forest tree as Alfredo Rodriguez Arzate swung his machete, climbing the trunk with a rope around his waist and spurs on his boots.
Built like a featherweight boxer, the mustachioed 50-year-old tree climber was careful not to make a wrong move, like accidentally slashing the rope, which could have sent him into a bone-breaking fall.
“You can’t make a mistake in this line of work,” Rodriguez said as he hacked off bark some seven meters (23 feet) above the jungle floor, creating a zigzagging trail for the chicle resin to run down the trunk and into a bag.
This is a risk taken by “chicleros” since the late 19th century to extract the original ingredient for chewing gum from the sapodilla tree, which has been harvested since the ancient Maya ruled the southeastern Yucatan Peninsula.
The men who dodge poisonous snakes, run into jaguars and climb 30-meter (100-foot) high trees nearly met their demise when US gum makers switched to synthetic ingredients following World War II.
But like the sapodilla trees that can live for hundreds of years, the chicleros have stuck around and made a comeback thanks to Asia’s continuing appetite for chicle and soaring demand for the real thing in Europe.
For the past three years, chicleros have produced their own organic chewing gum, selling mint, spearmint, lime and cinnamon flavors in more than 15 nations, mostly in Europe but also in Australia, under the brand name “Chicza.” Japan still imports chicle to make gum.
The Consorcio Chiclero, a company that groups 56 chiclero cooperatives, says chicle sales have jumped 47 percent, from from $ 1.2 million in 2011 to $ 1.8 million this year.
“If you chew Chicza, you bring the jungle to your mouth, and you also contribute to conservation,” said Consorcio Chiclero director Manuel Aldrete Terrazas, noting that the business is an incentive to keep trees standing.
Emily Segal, director of the Australian company Organic Imports, said sales have kept growing since she first imported Chicza six months ago, spreading to a network of 3,000 organic stores and independent supermarkets.
“Upon first chew, we loved the texture and flavor of the gum and were so impressed with the pure ingredients we realized that this was something the Australian market was crying out for,” she said.
The Mayas and the Aztecs are believed to have chewed chicle to clean their teeth and stave off hunger, though historians say they likely used different techniques to extract the resin from the sapodilla (also called chico zapote) tree and make gum.
The modern chewing gum was created by American scientist Thomas Adams in the 19th century after former Mexican leader Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna introduced him to chicle, hoping to export it as an alternative to rubber.
Since chicle failed as a rubber substitute, Adams decided to turn it into chewing gum, said Jennifer Mathews, author of “Chicle. The Chewing Gum of the Americas: From the Ancient Maya to William Wrigley.”
Chicle’s heyday was during World War II, when US soldiers distributed sticks of gum across the world. There were 20,000 chicleros and 5,000 tons of chicle produced per season at the time.
Its decline came when US companies switched to synthetic ingredients.
“It was basically abandoned by the 1970s,” Mathews told AFP.
The Consorcio Chiclero was created to save the industry after bad management nearly ended chicle production in the early 1990s, with only 1,000 chicleros still climbing trees.
Today around 2,000 chicleros live in small villages like Tres Garantias, a collection of modest wooden homes whose 800 residents mostly live off forestry and chicle.
The chicleros climb several trees in a day and wait hours for the latex to fill a bag at the foot of the tree, producing up to 200 tons of chicle per year.
After a tree is sliced, it takes seven years to heal and be ready for harvesting again during the rainy season, between August and February.
“It is the cycle of life,” said Raymundo Terron Santana, the grey bearded 68-year-old president of the Tres Garantias chiclero cooperative.
“When a woman gives birth, she is in pain. And when the chico zapote gives resin, it is also in pain when a chiclero slices it,” he said.
After rappelling from the tree, Rodriguez headed to a jungle camp used by the chicleros to ferment the stuff over a wood fire.
He poured a large quantity of the white chicle into a cauldron and cooked it for four hours, stirring the whole time as blue butterflies flew by and howler monkeys growled in the distance.
After taking it out of the fire and stirring some more to cool the chicle, he poured it onto a cloth and molded it into a brick, ready to be sent to the Consorcio’s small chewing gum factory.
Rodriguez made 13 kilos of chicle, earning 810 pesos ($ 62) for two days’ work, compared to the 100 pesos he can make working in the fields.
“I get to live together with nature and make money for my family,” he said.
He has climbed sapodilla trees since he was 15 years old, falling twice. Seven years ago, he broke a rib and suffered deviated discs in his spinal column. The injury sidelined him but he is climbing again.
“God has other plans for me,” he said.
Daredevil chewing gummakers stick to Maya chicle
Daredevil chewing gummakers stick to Maya chicle
Celine Dion, Jennifer Lopez and Halle Berry hit the stage at landmark Elie Saab show in Riyadh
RIYADH: The only thing sparkling brighter than the stars on the red carpet and performers on stage were the dresses on the runway as Lebanese icon Elie Saab put on a spectacle on Wednesday night in Riyadh with Jennifer Lopez, Celine Dion and Halle Berry hitting the stage in addition to a runway show of his creations.
In celebration of 45 years of Elie Saab, the show displayed 300 designs under the theme “1001 Seasons of Elie Saab,” an homage to the 1001 nights collection of Middle Eastern folktales.
Former French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld styled all the looks for the runway.
Guests were given a surprise when stars Lopez, Camila Cabello, Nancy Ajram, Amr Diab, and the legendary Celine Dion took to the stage in celebration of Elie Saab.
Opening the show was none other than Hollywood actress Berry wearing the same Elie Saab gown she wore when she won her first Oscar in 2002, making her the first Black woman to win the award for Best Actress.
Prior to the show, Berry was seen on the red carpet talking about how this was her first time meeting Saab in person, “That was the highlight of this trip for me to finally meet this man who I have been inextricably connected to for 22 years, and to give him a hug and tell him thank you.”
Celebrity stylist Law Roach, known for styling Hollywood A-listers like Zendaya, Anya Taylor Joy, Bella Hadid, and Celine Dion, talked to Arab News about Elie Saab’s ability to transcend eras.
“Elie Saab is one of the few couturiers whose clothes can be passed down to generations and generations and be reinterpreted.”
“Maybe someone got married in it (a dress), and maybe generations down the granddaughter of someone gets married in the same dress, it has that possibility of just being timeless and forever,” he said.
The spectacle began with a performance by Lopez, a frequent wearer of Saab’s creations. The first designs exhibited an array of black-and-white dresses adorned in classic crystals, a signature touch in most of his designs.
Next up was “an ode to the female figure”, where dresses in different shades of pink and green were lit up on stage with the help of singer-songwriter Camila Cabello. This section of the show featured what looked like a garden theme, detailing the beauty of the natural world as it interconnects with the beauty of women.
The tale continued into a silver and blue chapter, where the audience was given a touch of Arab culture with Lebanese singing icon Nancy Ajram, a nod to Elie Saab’s Lebanese heritage as well, followed by Egyptian star Amr Diab.
“Elie Saab, the name introduces itself. When we say Elie Saab we say elegance… when I wear Elie Saab I look at myself in the mirror more often and find myself more beautiful,” Ajram stated before her performance.
“I am also happy that a Lebanese creative deserves to be honored, is very successful, and we all see ourselves in him.”
The show concluded with a showcase by Dion, who gave an emotional and empowering performance that had the entire audience on their feet.
“Being here (in Riyadh) for the first time is kind of a dream come true,” Dion said.
“His (Elie Saab’s) generosity, his talent, he has been singing with me because I have been wearing his dresses, his talent, for many, many, years.”
Elie Saab Jr., CEO of Elie Saab, said: “We have been thinking a lot about how to create an international event in high fashion in the heart of Riyadh. And I believe it is a one of a kind event, not just for Riyadh, but for the whole world and the whole fashion industry.”
The evening was attended by more than 1,000 guests, including Egyptian actress Youssra; Italian star Monica Bellucci; British models Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Poppy Delevingne and Jourdan Dunn, supermodels Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel and Helena Christensen, and Arab actresses Nadine Njeim, Cyrine Abdel Nour, and Tara Emad.
Mustafa Sammak, COO of Ohana Development, which collaborated with Elie Saab on the Waterfront Tower in Abu Dhabi, told Arab News at the event that the showcase “powerfully reflects Middle Eastern artistry and heritage, drawing global attention to the region’s luxury landscape and creative depth. It reminds us that design — whether in fashion or real estate — has the ability to tell stories and bridge cultures.”
Saudi digital artist Khaled Makshoush: ‘I chase an atmosphere’
- Makshoush is one of the participants in the newly launched Diriyah Arts Futures
DUBAI: Saudi Arabia’s Diriyah is now nurturing the Kingdom’s creative future. The UNESCO World Heritage site recently launched Diriyah Art Futures (DAF), an initiative aimed at empowering the next generation of Saudi digital artists.
Among the select few to join DAF’s Emerging New Media Artists program is Saudi pixel artist Khaled Makshoush, who is now part of a project designed to establish Riyadh as a global capital of new media art.
The program, designed in collaboration with France’s Le Fresnoy Studio National des Arts Contemporains, provides artists like Makshoush with access to advanced equipment, production budgets, and mentorship from international digital art experts.
Reflecting on this opportunity, Makshoush told Arab News how meaningful it feels to exhibit and evolve his pixel art within his homeland.
“When I started creating digital art, especially pixel art, I never thought I would get an opportunity like this, with such a program and in my own city,” he said. “I am really grateful for that and to get the chance to actually put my pixel art out there.”
Makshoush’s journey into pixel art began in 2015, when he and a friend explored the idea of creating video games. While his friend handled the programming, Makshoush took on the artistic side, initially choosing pixel art for its perceived simplicity.
Over time, that initial foray transformed into a deeper passion. By 2016, he was dedicating himself fully to the medium, honing his skills through a disciplined daily painting practice, which pushed him to continually explore new ideas and techniques.
“This forced me to ask myself, ‘What do I want to draw? What do I want to paint? And that, I think, was a big question. It kind of led me into a journey of discovering myself,” he said.
Today, Makshoush’s art often centers around the landscapes and cityscapes of Riyadh.
“I focus on feeling the space. Like, how and why does it make me feel a certain way? When I’m outside and I see something interesting, I try to explore it,” he said.
For Makshoush, the power of pixel art lies in its ability to capture and convey a distinct impression — a quality that he strives to evoke in each piece he creates.
“I chase an atmosphere,” he explained. “My work represents my state of mind during the time that I create (an artwork).”
His personal connection to, and love for, Riyadh is evident in his work, which manages to be both contemporary, but somehow nostalgic at the same time, perhaps because of his retro graphics style.
Through the DAF program, Makshoush hopes to push his skills further by experimenting with larger scales as well as with new technologies.
The mentorship component of the program, he said, is particularly exciting for him, as it offers a chance to explore intersections between pixel art and other digital forms. He would love to explore techniques like programming or ways to exhibit his work interactively. He envisions his art evolving into installations that blend the virtual and physical, bridging the gap between the online world, where digital art typically lives, and tangible exhibitions.
“The idea of moving pixel art from the screen to the physical space is intriguing — finding a balance where it retains its digital essence while existing outside the internet,” he said.
Pixel art, so heavily linked to vintage video games from “Space Invaders” and “Pac-Man” to “Super Mario Bros,” has evolved significantly in recent years, Makshoush believes. He noted that, especially since the early 2010s, social media has helped push pixel art into new realms, with artists worldwide reimagining it and taking it beyond its nostalgic associations. He described a movement primarily driven by Japanese and Western artists, characterized by serene, almost cinematic scenes that evoke a quiet beauty.
“It’s about creating an atmosphere rather than reliving the nostalgia of video games,” he said.
With his newfound access to resources and mentors, Makshoush is eager to contribute to Saudi Arabia’s burgeoning digital art scene, which he sees as increasingly dynamic and influential.
“We have a lot of digital artists now in Saudi Arabia and it is only becoming bigger and bigger,” he said. “I hope my work can inspire others as I was once inspired.”
Recipes for Success: Chef Ranveer Brar offers advice and a delicious saag meat recipe
DUBAI: Celebrity chef, painter and actor Ranveer Brar was born in Lucknow, northern India, and fell in love with cooking at a very young age. While accompanying his grandfather to the local gurudwara (Sikh place of worship), he remembers sneaking into the community kitchen — known as a langar — excited by all the activity there.
“A few years later, when I was a pre-teen, the priest called me aside and asked me to prepare the rice dish, as his wife was unwell that day. I had no list of ingredients, nor the recipe, but, recalling what I’d observed, I prepared the dish and it turned out quite well. That was my first experience of instant gratification with food,” Brar tells Arab News. “After my debut at the gurudwara, my next attempt at cooking was when my mother fell ill and I made rajma — again, without any recipe, I just made it from my memory of watching my mother make it. I overheard my dad complimenting the attempt and, at that moment, I realized that food was my calling.”
Brar opened his first restaurant in the Gulf in Dubai late last year.
“Kashkan means ‘From Kashmir to Kanyakumari,’” he says. “The UAE, and Dubai in particular, seemed like the perfect venue because it is a melting pot of both cultures and cuisines, so what better place to celebrate Kashkan’s melange of flavours?”
Here, Brar discusses his favorite ingredient, the toughest dish to perfect, and advice for amateurs.
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
Trying to do too much and over-express myself. As a result, I was losing myself — the idea I was trying to express was getting lost. With age I understood that not everything one knows needs to be expressed in a single dish. Wisdom lies in choosing the right moment for the right expression.
What’s your top tip for amateurs?
Stick to the basics. If you get the fundamentals right, you can rarely go wrong with cooking. They can then become the basis for innovation as one evolves.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
That would be coriander for me, adding a lot of freshness. From the stalks to the leaves, every element of the herb is fascinating. Also olive oil, which adds richness.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
I don’t really. I view food as food. The reason I am who I am is because food has always made me happy, so I don’t want to take that role away from food in my life. When eating out, I try to feel, understand and appreciate the intent of the person who’s cooking. But when it’s my cooking, I tend to be quite harsh and critical of myself, because every time you cook, it’s an opportunity to improve yourself.
What’s your favorite cuisine?
It’s usually the local food of the place I am travelling to. Also, the simpler the restaurant, the more likely I am to end up there. I believe the essence of good food is its simplicity. What better than street food and age-old places to understand the true culture and cuisine of any place?
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
Has to be khichdi. It’s the perfect one-pot meal that has everything your appetite needs. Add in vegetables and you get a good proportion of all nutrients on your plate. And don’t forget the ghee!
What customer request most annoys you?
Strangely, it’s when they ask for salt! Salt is such an important element of any dish. A little too much salt can subdue other flavors and too little can fail to elevate them. I feel it’s the chef’s judgment of the amount of salt that allows us to experience the dish as intended. So when customers ask for salt it disappoints me, because the true nature of the dish might get spoiled.
What’s your favorite dish to cook and why?
My special chicken curry. Be it family or friends, I always get asked for that. It’s now a signature dish at Kashkan too.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
Biryani is something I would love to keep perfecting. You have to cook many layers of rice at the same time, giving it minimum water, minimum heat over a long period of time, with every grain of rice being the same, every layer of flavor equally coating the rice. I think biryani is the perfect test for anyone who is a student of Salt-Fat-Acid-Heat.
As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laid back?
I used to be a disciplinarian believing that cooking was all about control; the heat, environment, ingredients and cooking itself. Now I’m more relaxed; it’s more collaborative, it’s more about letting the team express themselves and my role is to guide them through that expression.
RECIPE: SAAG MEAT
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 35-40 minutes
Serves 2-4
INGREDIENTS:
For the marination:
4 medium Onions, sliced
¼ cup fresh Fenugreek leaves
¾ cup Curd, beaten
Salt to taste
½ tsp Turmeric powder
½ tsp Degi red chili powder
½ tsp Coriander powder
1 kg Mutton (with bones)
½ tbsp Ginger Garlic paste
For the mutton:
3-4 tbsp Oil
3 Bay leaf
2 Black cardamom
2 Cloves
¼ tsp Cumin seeds
Marinated Mutton
Salt to taste
few fresh Fenugreek leaves
Little water
For the saag meat:
1 tbsp Oil
1 tbsp Ghee
1 inch Ginger (peeled & chopped)
4-5 Garlic cloves, chopped
2 medium Onions, chopped
2-3 Green chillies
2 Dry red chillies
2-3 medium bunch fresh Spinach leaves, chopped
¼ cup Amaranth (Bathua)
Salt to taste
Little water
1 tbsp Butter, cubed
Pressure Cooked Mutton
½ tbsp unsalted Butter or white butter, cubed (optional)
½ tsp Mustard oil
For garnish:
Coriander sprig
INSTRUCTIONS
For marination:
In a bowl, add onions, fresh fenugreek leaves, curd, salt to taste, turmeric powder, deg red chili powder, coriander powder, mutton, ginger garlic paste and mix it well.
Keep it aside for further use.
For the mutton:
In a pressure cooker, add oil, once it's hot, add bay leaf, black cardamom, cloves, cumin seeds and let it splutter.
Add marinated mutton and saute it for 6-7 minutes. Add salt to taste and cook for a while.
Add a few fenugreek leaves and mix well. Add water, close the lid and cook it for 5-6 whistles or until the mutton is tender.
Keep it aside for further use.
For the saag meat:
In a kadai (Indian wok), add oil, ghee, once it's hot, ginger, garlic, onion, green chillies and saute for a minute.
Add dry red chillies and saute well. Add spinach, amaranth leaves, salt to taste, water and saute well.
Add butter, close the lid and cook it for 3-4 minutes.
Add cooked mutton and let it simmer for a while.
To finish, add unsalted butter or white butter, mustard oil and stir it well.
Transfer it to a serving dish and garnish it with coriander sprig.
Serve hot with roti.
Best and worst: Nour Hassan discusses memorable style moments, her take on trends
DUBAI: The Saudi-Egyptian podcast host and influencer shares memorable style moments, her take on trends, and the best and worst advice she ever received.
Best TV show or film you’ve ever seen?
“Gossip Girl” remains an iconic show for both fashion and pop culture. One of my favorite movies is “Pride and Prejudice” starring Keira Knightley, possibly since this is also one of my favorite books. And I have to watch “Love, Actually” at least once a year around December.
Worst TV show/film you’ve ever seen?
I don’t like anything dark or dreary. I prefer shows and movies that inspire and uplift because I think there is enough darkness in the world.
Best personal style moment so far?
I would definitely have to say my custom couture Jean Pierre Khoury wedding dress. It was a timeless piece. Another style moment I cherish is wearing Marmar Halim to El Gouna Film Festival.
Worst personal style moment?
Overall my style has been quite consistent and identifiable. I wouldn’t say I have a worst, necessarily, but any time I opt for a trend, it does not age well. This might be too soon, but I cannot stand those flower hair clips anymore. I also rarely wear yellow or pink. But I change my mind often, as a Libra, so you might catch me in a full yellow look after saying this.
Best accessory for a little black dress?
Pearls. They’re such an underrated accessory. They can really help achieve a timeless look — something from the 1920s and ’30s when fashion was more feminine and definitely more demure.
Worst accessory for a little black dress?
Too much color. Own the black cat moment, make it bold. The black dress is a statement. It exudes confidence and power, so keep it simple and classic.
Best fashion trend of 2024?
The Fall/ Winter color palette is everything. Chocolate brown, deep burgundy, taupes and nudes. These are the colors I've always loved the most. As an Arab woman with Egyptian Pharaonic features, I always find the warmth brings out all the best aspects of my complexion. Cool tones like navy are not my go-to, but thankfully I think we’re over that age-old rule of not pairing navy with black. Fashion is becoming more free and I am here for it.
Worst fashion trend of 2024?
Ballerinas — ballet shoes — are something I cannot get myself to return to. I used to love them — I lived in them in the early 2000s — but something about them makes the entire outfit look naïve, and I don’t like that. It’s not a look I’d go back to, although Miu Miu has tempted me many times.
Best advice you’ve ever been given?
Never compare yourself to anyone. I think that’s almost impossible in the age of social media, but if you start the game of comparison it will never end. Focus on yourself and your work. That’s the only way to stay unique and authentic in the contemporary landscape.
Worst advice you’ve ever been given?
Asking for too much advice is usually a problem. Ultimately, you need to be able to make calls for yourself.
Best book you’ve ever read?
“The Untethered Soul” by Michael Singer is a book that can change your life — but only if you’re ready to grasp the sobering message that you are, in fact, in control of your life and your circumstances. It’s a scary thought and you have to be ready to take accountability for your life. For non-fiction it is, and always will be, the “Harry Potter” books.
Worst book you’ve ever read?
A mentor once told me that a book finds you when you’re ready for it. I don’t think you can go wrong with reading. There is always something to learn. Even if you hated the book then that’s a lesson on what you do not enjoy.
Best thing to do when you’re feeling low?
Pilates or a good long walk will elevate just about any aspect of your day, especially the latter. Sometimes, if you do not have the energy for an intense workout, it’s best to listen and not force it. Just go for 15 mins — do something to move the body and it will help free your mind.
Worst thing to do when you’re feeling good?
Be anywhere but in the now.
Best holiday destination?
Rome. Always. It’s a city that allows you to dream big — it kind of reminds me of certain parts of Cairo. It shows you what human beings are capable of and how vast and expansive civilization really is.
Worst holiday destination?
I’m not a camping girl, so anything like that, or somewhere with an arid climate, is not for me.
Best subject at school?
English. I got an award for the highest score in the Middle East during my IB Diploma. I’m a writer first and foremost, so I loved reading prose, analyzing poems and writing short stories. Art was equally a favorite. Both encompass the majority of my interests and passions.
Worst subject at school?
I was a major nerd so I didn’t really have a worst subject. I aced them all, like it or not. If I had to pick one perhaps it would be physics. I had a love-hate relationship with this subject.
Best thing to do to ensure you have a productive day?
Wake up before the sun. The days I wake up early are completely different to the days when I do not. I think deep down inside we all know this is the ultimate life hack, but potentially the most difficult one to implement because it requires uprooting your entire routine. I wake up at 5 a.m. at least once a week to reset and prepare for the week.
Worst thing to do when you’re trying to have a productive day?
Open social media. You’ll be in the vortex for hours.
Chanel spotlights regional models in campaigns, cruise shows
DUBAI: French luxury fashion house Chanel continues to spotlight regional models in its global campaigns and cruise shows, with its latest release featuring Mona Tougaard.
The Danish model, of Turkish, Somali, and Ethiopian descent, was seen posing for Chanel’s new holiday campaign. In the image, Tougaard wore Chanel’s “Premiere Edition Original” watch in 0.1-micron yellow gold-plated steel paired with black leather.
Her look was completed with a choker, ring, and earrings from the brand’s “Camellia” collection, crafted in yellow gold and adorned with diamonds. She also accessorized with bracelets and earrings from the “Coco Crush” line, designed in beige and white gold with diamond accents.
Meanwhile, French Algerian model Loli Bahia gave fans a sneak peek of the fashion house’s cruise show in Hong Kong on Tuesday through her Instagram account.
She posted images of herself displayed on a wall, showing off pieces she wore in the show last week. In one shot, she’s styled in classic Chanel fashion, donning a cream crochet jacket layered over an intricate chain and pendant body piece.
In another image, she was seen in a brown leather vest matched with coordinating shorts and ballerina flats.
Part-Saudi model Shanina Shaik, who has Pakistani, Lithuanian and Australian heritage, promoted Chanel’s beauty line to her 3.4 million Instagram followers.
“All the beautiful products from the holiday glam,” she captioned her story, showcasing an eyeshadow palette, a face palette, a highlighter, along with lip liners and lipsticks.
She also shared a story spraying the limited edition No.5 Eau de Parfum, part of Chanel’s holiday collection.
In June, Bahia walked the brand’s runway during Paris Fashion Week. She donned a two-piece ensemble comprising a tailored buttoned jacket complemented by a matching knee-length skirt in a delicate tweed fabric.
In May, Bahia and part-Saudi Amira Al-Zuhair walked the Chanel Cruise 2024/2025 show in Marseille, France.
Bahia donned a green ensemble, composed of a knee-length pencil skirt paired with a matching top, layered over a white shirt boasting a hoodie collar, while Al-Zuhair sported a vibrant yellow ensemble featuring hot shorts paired with a button-down top and a coordinating cardigan.
