To see Sanaa’s Old City for the first time is like “a vision of a childhood dream world of fantasy castles,” a visitor once remarked, but neglect and unruly construction are threatening to destroy that magic.
Yemen’s capital is one of the most ancient cities in the world, and entering its oldest quarter has been described “as perhaps the closest thing to time travel” we can experience.
Ancient “tower blocks,” some six storys high, some nine, look like gingerbread castles. With ground floors of black lava stone, their upper storys are of baked brick decorated with intricate geometric shapes and horizontal bands in gypsum whitewash.
Each quarter has a mosque, a hammam (Turkish bath) and a garden around which the houses were built.
In the past, water used for ablution in the mosque was then pooled to irrigate the gardens, used for growing vegetables, and waste was recycled to heat water in the hammams or for fertilizer.
That rich heritage is reflected in 103 mosques, some built more than a millennium ago, 14 hammams and more than 6,000 centuries-old houses, and the Old City was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986.
But preservationists are struggling against the ravages of the modern world. Randomly built concrete houses distort the Old City’s skyline, salt from the cement weakens its structure and the once-spacious gardens are disappearing.
Many people have abandoned their homes, which are costly to maintain, and moved to new villas outside of town. So the Old City has increasingly become a home for lower income people, who are even less able to stem the tide of dilapidation.
More and more of these houses, each of which stands as an individual piece of art, are collapsing because of decay, the recent installation of sewage pipes along the narrow alleys and heavy rainfall.
This is compounded by a lack of maintenance resulting from the indifference of the authorities, UNESCO warns.
And because of inadequate drainage, the rainy season poses an annual threat to the old mud brick buildings.
In February 2012, UNESCO urged the authorities “to ensure the protection of the cultural heritage” of the impoverished country. But the government has been absorbed by an ongoing political crisis and security threats, and had little time, or money, to spare for preservation.
Naji Saleh Thawaba, president of the General Organization for the Preservation of the Historic Cities of Yemen (GOPHCY), said the government is now focused on holding a national dialogue to end political deadlock in the country.
“The government and the international community have only one thing in mind: the national dialogue, and have forgotten everything else — including heritage,” he said.
Founded in 1990, GOPHCY is an independent body that was set up to develop a strategy for sustainable development in Sanaa and other cities.
Thawaba’s bitter remark suggests his agency does not have the means to do the job.
“The ministry of finance has not allocated anything to the organization, which is expected to prepare studies about preservation and prevent abuse,” he said.
Thawaba’s deputy, Ammatelrazzaq Jehaf, shares his concerns.
“We have a budget of five million riyals ($ 23,000/17,700 euros) for Sanaa... How can this amount be enough to take care of 600 houses?“
“The only practical solution is a UNESCO mission which would unify national and international efforts to preserve this heritage. Without such a mission, nothing will change,” says Thawaba.
Jehaf hopes UNESCO will reach out by “finding donors and financiers who would come to the aid of Sanaa.”
UNESCO has organized several missions to Sanaa to try to provide assistance to restoration projects.
But the UN organization said no official information is available on the state of conservation of Old City properties “due to security restrictions.”
Sanaa residents feel their precious heritage is about to crumble, and blame authorities for not doing enough to protect it.
“We have no government attention while many homes are on the verge of collapse,” said Abdelaziz Al-Dhahiani.
Another resident, Wazir Al-Ghallab, echoed the sense of helplessness.
“We cannot restore them ourselves. We keep waiting for government intervention that never arrives. There are houses that have been ruined for 15 years and nobody cares,” he said.
“Sometimes the facade is slightly restored but the interior is left in ruins,” said Ghallab.
“Old Sanaa is an unmatched jewel that everyone should try to preserve.”
Old Sanaa, an endangered UNESCO heritage site
Old Sanaa, an endangered UNESCO heritage site
Virtual, AI-powered Saudi travel companion impresses visitors at travel exhibition in London
- The new app, called SARA, offers users insights and advice about the Kingdom’s tourist attractions in a natural and seamless conversational style
RIYADH: The Saudi Tourism Authority unveiled the beta version of SARA, its new travel companion app for visitors to the Kingdom, at the World Travel Market exhibition in London this week.
It allows users to interact with a digital female guide, powered by AI, who is deeply knowledgeable about Saudi Arabia and offers insights and advice about the country’s tourist destinations, historical landmarks, archaeological sites, cultural diversity, international events, and anything else a visitor might be interested in.
SARA was on show in the Visit Saudi pavilion at the World Travel Market, which began on Monday and concluded on Wednesday. Officials said she interacted directly with attendees, who were captivated by her engaging stories about the Kingdom’s tourist attractions and experiences, and the extensive information she was able to provide.
The app reflects the nation’s progressive approach to smart tourism, they added, and leverages the latest developments in AI so that it can respond to questions, understand visitor needs, and offer personalized information and suggestions in a natural and seamless conversational style.
Off the beaten track in Sri Lanka
- New visa rules have made it easier than ever for Gulf tourists to visit the island nation
TORONTO: Sri Lanka has long been a favored destination for visitors from the Gulf. Easy access, budget-friendly offerings, and diverse experiences – from cultural and historic landmarks to idyllic beach resorts and scenic treks – make it an ideal getaway destination. And now, there’s one more reason for Saudis to take a trip to the island nation. Last month, the Sri Lankan government announced that residents of Saudi Arabia, the UAE, Qatar, Oman, and 31 other countries can now visit without a visa.
The capital, Colombo, is probably the most popular destination in Sri Lanka, along with Kandy and Ella, but the less-frequented areas in the central and southern regions of the country are well worth considering.
My Sri Lanka trip started in Hatton, in the Nuwara Eliya region. Often called “Little England,” the region is a reminder of the country’s former colonial rule, with Tudor-style architecture and sprawling tea estates named after their former British proprietors.
The central province is home to Sri Lanka’s renowned tea highlands. Tea is an integral part of the island’s history and culture — as its former name, Ceylon, suggests.
My encounter with Ceylon tea starts at the Dunkeld Tea Factory, owned by The Dilmah Group, a family-run business that has become a global name. The tea is single-origin — meaning it is picked, cultivated, and packed from the lush, rolling terraces of the region. The tour takes guests through the history of Ceylon tea, which actually began with coffee plantations in the 18th century. But leaf disease devastated those plantations, leading to the demise of the short-lived coffee industry in Sri Lanka. In 1867, James Taylor, a Scottish man, planted the first tea clearing in Kandy. By the late 19th century, the country had become one of the largest tea producers in the world. Guests are also invited to a tea-tasting experience, including the Orange Pekoe, the robust tea blend that is a specialty of the region.
I stayed at Summerville, one of the five palatial bungalows once home to English plantation owners which have now been refurbished into boutique properties by the Ceylon Tea Trails Hotel under the Resplendent Ceylon Group. Perched at nearly 4,000 feet and set across 2,000 hectares, the bungalows are perfect for those seeking a slow, luxurious vacation. Guests can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the emerald hilltops from various vantage points or unwind in the several tranquil lounge spaces scattered throughout the bungalows. Or — with a private chef and butler on hand — choose to indulge in a five-course dinner that features the likes of a Yatawatte tea-infused roasted chicken or the Earl Gray fondant.
The tea trails, ranging from four to 15 kilometers long, connect the various bungalows, offering scenic hikes through the valleys. For those seeking adventure, the newly-inaugurated Pekoe Trail (a 300-km route with 22 phases) allows tourists to explore the rich biodiversity of the area. This trail can be experienced on foot or by rail.
The next leg of my trip was drastically different. As we were making our way down from the central region to Sri Lanka’s southern tip, the hilltops, winding roads, and cool weather gave way to palm trees, speedy tuk-tuks, and tropical weather.
In the Hambantota district, the biggest draw is undoubtedly Yala National Park, the second largest national park of the country, and the one with the highest density of leopards. An early morning or afternoon game drive provides ample opportunities to spot wildlife, including the elusive leopard, sloth bears, and elephants.
After the adrenaline rush of a wildlife safari, I head to our ‘glamping’ lodge — the Wild Coast Tented Lodge, another one of Resplendent Ceylon’s properties. The luxury camp is unfenced and wildlife will often wander into the premises from the park, giving guests a sometimes-gleeful, sometimes-terrifying experience.
The lodge itself is an architectural delight, focusing on sustainable design and the use of organic materials, including bamboo. It includes 28 “cocoons” or pods scattered throughout the jungle wilderness. The interiors feature rustic touches like cooper hardware, a leopard-claw bathtub, and vintage leather furniture.
It’s also here that the jungle meets the Indian Ocean. As I wandered along the rugged coastline or enjoyed a sundowner, I was once again reminded of the serenity that Sri Lanka has to offer.
Saudi Arabia’s recreational spaces ready for holiday season
AL-BAHA: Saudi authorities have announced extensive preparations of public recreational facilities ahead of the school holiday season.
The Al-Baha municipality has readied 142 parks and recreational areas, along with municipal squares, public spaces and streets, to welcome visitors and tourists.
According to regional secretary, Ali bin Mohammed Al-Sawat, these facilities span more than 4,188,559.98 million square meters and feature amenities including children’s playgrounds, green spaces, shade structures, lighting, sidewalks, seating areas and parking, and facilities for activities such as walking and cycling.
Meanwhile, the Eastern Region Municipality has completed the preparation of 979 parks and public squares, 18 public recreational parks, 14 waterfront areas and 213 walking tracks.
The facilities are timely as moderate weather conditions and school breaks attract more outdoor activity.
The municipality emphasized its commitment to regular maintenance of these facilities, considering them vital breathing spaces for citizens and residents.
Cloud7 Residence AlUla: A dreamy home away from home
- The gated resort is an ideal place from which to explore the ancient desert oasis
ALULA: Roughly half an hour’s drive from AlUla’s Prince Abdul Majeed bin Abdulaziz International Airport, Cloud7 Residence is the largest hotel in the area, boasting 301 modern bungalows. Each unit is thoughtfully designed, featuring individual private terraces from which guests can enjoy awe-inspiring views of AlUla’s stunning landscapes — mountains and lush greenery.
Cloud7’s decor blends the ancient with the trendy. Coupled with the traditional Saudi hospitality on offer, this is a truly nice place to stay. It’s the chillest hotel/resort I’ve been to in ages.
The beds are comfortable and the rooms are well-equipped, including plenty of places to plug in your devices. There are eco-friendly products provided, including chewable toothpaste that comes in tiny pills in a glass jar, and which activates once you have some water in your mouth.
The fridge comes stocked with complimentary sodas and plenty of water bottles at the ready — also useful for feeding into the coffee machine.
The main mode of transportation in the grounds, whether taking your luggage to your room, going to breakfast or to relax by the pool, or heading to your next activity, is a buggy. There was usually one right outside my door each time I emerged from my bungalow, but if there isn’t, you can simply call for one.
The residence is an ideal base for both short- and long-term stays, designed to accommodate the needs of leisure seekers, adventure enthusiasts and business travelers alike in its secure, gated space.
As part of the residence’s commitment to honoring local heritage, a series of murals created by local artists adorn the walls. Artists including Hanan Sami and Maram AlSelayem brought their individual styles to the project, creating pieces that highlight AlUla’s natural beauty and heritage. The venue’s community and culture manager, Fahad Alfaqir, said the artists who painted the murals are all from AlUla, as he is, and that they depicted local plants and flowers to decorate the spaces and used inscriptions from indigenous languages.
Cloud7 Residence AlUla’s dining experiences range from gourmet meals to relaxed, family-friendly options. Charcood, the resort’s signature restaurant, offers a selection of smoky, charcoal-grilled dishes crafted by Chef Jaume Puigdengolas. Open for breakfast, dinner, and light bites, it was my go-to place to start the day.
For those who prefer a more casual atmosphere, Off-Road Café serves lunch, dinner and light snacks in a laidback setting, perfect for watching live sports or movies on large screens. Guests can enjoy playing pool, darts and foosball, or indulge in some shisha outside.
For those seeking a relaxing time away from being away, the Pool Lounge offers casual dining with comfortable beanbags and a curated menu of international flavors, all presented poolside. It was perhaps my favorite spot to sit and literally reflect while the serene water reminds you to stay centered.
Cloud7 Residence AlUla is also in a prime location for exploring AlUla’s many historical sites. Visitors can easily reach attractions like the ancient city of Dadan, Jabal Ikmah’s rock inscriptions and — my favorite — Old Town. You can book guided tours, but the hotel also provides car and bike rentals.
Cloud7 Residence AlUla is more than just somewhere to stay; it’s an invitation to connect with the timeless beauty of AlUla — a place which makes you feel so big and so small all at once.
Tashkent: An underrated gem of the Silk Road
- Uzbekistan’s capital city boasts grand architecture and a rich cultural history
DUBAI: Tashkent may not be as famous for its architecture and culture as Paris, Rome or Barcelona, but the capital of Uzbekistan is an underrated gem for tourists.
With a population of more than three million, Tashkent is the largest city in Central Asia, which was formerly part of the Soviet Union. Tashkent — which means “city of stone” — is historically significant as one of several trading hubs (along with its neighboring cities Bukhara and Samarkand) on the Silk Road stretching from Europe to China. In the 8th century, the city was under Muslim Arab rule, and Islamic architecture, studded with stunning blue tiles that match the skies above Tashkent, remains a notable feature.
Under Soviet rule, Tashkent saw a rise in the modernist style of heavy, brutalist buildings beloved by the USSR — see, for example, the overwhelming, grid-like exterior of Hotel Uzbekistan, established in 1974. Between the 1960s and 1990s, such structures were part of a plan to rebuild the city after an earthquake in 1966.
One of the grandest buildings in Tashkent is the centrally located Alisher Navoiy Theater, an elegant opera house which opened in the 1930s, playing the timeless melodies of classical maestros Tchaikovsky, Prokofiev and Verdi. It is named after the poet and national hero dubbed “the father of Uzbek literature,” who was born in modern-day Afghanistan during the 1400s. Designed by the Soviet architect Alexey Shchusev, the 1,500-seat opera house radiates with European and Oriental stylistic elements. Its six lobbies are named after the Uzbek cities of Bukhara, Khorezm, Samarkand, Fergana, Termez and Tashkent.
A number of museums — devoted to history, art, geology and warfare — exist in the capital; one of the best is the highly ornate Museum of Applied Arts, which pays tribute to the delicate handcraftsmanship of traditional Uzbek artisans, and displays embroidery, pottery, miniature paintings, jewelry and weaponry. The building itself is a work of art too, showcasing detailed wooden ceilings rendered with floral and geometric motifs.
There are more than 2,000 mosques in Uzbekistan and one of its oldest is Kukeldash Madrasah, founded in the 1500s. The tranquil site, which has been restored and used for various purposes over the years, was originally built to host lessons in Islamic studies and the Qur’an (lessons which still happen today). It also houses an intimate calligraphy studio. The main facade features Arabic scripture and a pattern of arches, decorated by predominantly blue mosaics.
Close by is the lively and substantial Chorsu Bazaar, where locals go to shop for food, spices, crockery and trinkets. The ruby-colored pomegranate fruit is particularly popular, and also features as a motif on clothing, acting, in a way, as a symbol of the country. The bazaar sits under a blue ornamented dome, which was designed in 1980.
If you’re looking for a more peaceful location, then the Rakhimovs Ceramic Studio is the place to be. This haven of creativity, accessible by appointment only, aims to preserve the heritage of ceramic art. Full of decorated pottery pieces, the family-run space tells the story of four generations of ceramic masters, starting with one of Tashkent’s prominent 20th-century ceramicists and restorer of mosaics Mukhitdin Rakhimov down to his grandson, Alisher Akbarovich Rakhimov, who has passed along the art of pottery to his son, Shokhrukh.
And Tashkent’s attractions are not all on its surface. Be sure to visit the Tashkent Metro, which, in 1977, became the first subway system in Central Asia. Its 29 stations resemble art galleries, full of sophisticated columns, patterned domes, colorful tiles and murals with stories of national pride to tell. Perhaps the most famous station in the system is Kosmonavtlar (Cosmonauts), with its blue-and-white interior that inspired by the ‘space race,’ which occurred between the 1950s and 1970s. The walls of the station showcase large medallions depicting the Soviet Union’s leading astronauts, Yuri Gagarin and Valentina Tereshkova, respectively the first man and woman to go to space.
Tashkent is an ideal location for lovers of architecture who want to discover something atypical. It has a visually appealing landscape of old and modern buildings, demonstrating the city’s diverse cultural heritage, which is worthy of preservation and attention.
