TOKYO: Washoku, the traditional cuisine of Japan, is being considered for designation as part of the world’s priceless cultural heritage by the UN this week. But even as sushi and sake booms worldwide, purists say its finer points are candidates for the endangered list at home. The younger generation is increasingly eating Krispy Kreme doughnuts and McDonald’s, not rice.
Among cuisines, only French cooking has been distinguished as a national culinary tradition. Other picks by UNESCO for its World Heritage list, such as food from Mexico and Turkey, are more specific dishes. Washoku embraces seasonal ingredients, a unique taste, time consuming preparation and a style of eating steeped in centuries of tradition. At its heart is savory “umami,” recognized as a fundamental taste along with sweet, sour, salty and bitter.
“That’s a delicate subtle taste. But younger people can’t even taste it anymore because they’re too used to spicy oily food,” said Isao Kumakura, president of Shizuoka University of Art and Culture, who is leading the drive to get washoku recognized. “It’s Westernization. Japanese should be more proud of Japanese culture.”
Kumakura believes UNESCO recognition will send a global message and boost efforts to save washoku, a fight that faces serious challenges.
Annual rice consumption in Japan has fallen 17 percent over the last 15 years to 7.81 million tons from 9.44 million tons, according to government data.
Fast-food chains have become ubiquitous in Japan, including Krispy Kreme, Domino’s Pizza and the perennial favorite McDonald’s. Their reasonable prices and fast service are attracting the stomachs of the workaholic “salaryman” and OL, short for “office lady.”
As washoku dims in popularity, fears are growing the community ties it historically stood for may also be withering, such as cooking together for New Year’s and other festivals.
Those are traditions closely linked to family relations as defined by home-cooking — almost always the taste of mom’s cooking, or “ofukuro no aji,” as the Japanese say.
Yasuko Hiramatsu, mother, housewife and part-time translator, learned how to cook from her mother and grandmother, although she also relies on several cookbooks and watches TV shows to beef up her repertoire.
One of her favorite dishes is ground beef and potatoes cooked in soy sauce, sake and sugar, that she says has a reputation as the way to grab a man’s stomach, and thereby his heart.
Both her husband and son love her “nikujaga.” But it’s a close call whether that recipe fits the strictest definitions of washoku, which is generally more about fish than meat.
Hiramatsu is old-style in making tsukemono from scratch, using “nuka,” or fermented rice bran, from her grandmother’s recipe to replicate the taste that runs in her family. She sometimes doesn’t have time and resorts to packaged stuff from the supermarket. But that’s not the ideal.
“Of course, sometimes I eat out and get French fries, but this is what has been eaten for the longest time,” she said of her home cooking. “It must be something in our blood.”
Washoku is always about rice, miso or soy-bean-paste soup, “tsukemono” pickles, and usually three dishes — perhaps a slice of grilled salmon, broth-stewed “nimono” vegetables and boiled greens. Umami is based on flavor from dried bonito flakes and seaweed, Japan’s equivalent of soup stock.
Washoku is also about design. Fancy ceramic and lacquer-ware come in varying sizes, textures and shapes. Food is placed in a decorative fashion, sometimes with inedible items for effect like an autumn leaf.
Pieces of food may be cut into flowery shapes or carefully wrapped around other food, tied like a package with an edible ribbon. Recipes celebrate the seasons by focusing on fresh ingredients.
Kenji Uda, 47, the chief chef at Tokyo restaurant Irimoya Bettei, where he makes blowfish sashimi and crab cooked in rice, says he was 17 when he decided to devote his life to washoku.
“Japanese food is so beautiful to look at,” he said. “But it takes a lot of time. People are working and busy, and no longer have that kind of time.”
The exodus from washoku is apparent at Taiwa Gakuen, a Kyoto-based school for chefs, where the biggest number of students wants to learn Italian cuisine, followed by French, and interest in washoku is growing only among overseas students.
Seiji Tanaka, who heads the school, hopes the UNESCO decision expected at meeting in Azerbaijan this week will help draw Japanese people back to tradition.
“It’s endangered,” he said.
Tanaka believes the survival of washoku is critical because it’s linked with what he sees as the spirit of Japan, especially the family.
“The ‘wa’ in washoku means harmony,” he said.
In proper Japanese dining, the phrase “itadakimasu,” or “I am going to receive this,” is uttered, preferably in unison, at the beginning of a meal; “gochisousama,” or “thank you for the meal,” ends it.
Different from saying grace, the custom expresses gratitude not only to the chef but for the blessing of having food on the table — the grace of nature.
But even washoku experts say you shouldn’t feel guilty about not eating it three times a day.
Kumakura swears eating with chopsticks — daintily picking each bite-size serving, never piercing — is a symbol of Japanese-ness. But he acknowledges he often has toast and eggs for breakfast.
“Just please try to have washoku at least once a day,” he said with a laugh.
Japan food seeks heritage gong as young spurn rice
Japan food seeks heritage gong as young spurn rice
Recipes for success: Chef Ilias Doulamis offers advice and a tasty seafood recipe
DUBAI: Greek chef Ilias Doulamis is well-travelled and no stranger to the Gulf. Before taking on his current role, he worked at the Rosewood Al-Faisaliah Hotel in Riyadh, the Grand Hyatt Muscat, and the Grand Hyatt Doha, among others — as well as restaurants in Paris and London. Now, he is the culinary director of the Conrad Abu Dhabi, and Hilton’s regional chef for the Arabian Peninsula.
Here, Doulamis discusses the charms of citrus fruits, the importance of collaboration, and attention to detail.
When you started out what was the most common mistake you made?
Trying to do too much on my own. Early on, I thought asking for help was a sign of weakness. But since then I’ve learned that great kitchens run on collaboration and trust.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Focus on mastering the basics skills. They are the foundation of everything in the kitchen.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Citrus! It instantly elevates a dish by adding brightness, balance, and depth. From orange, mandarin, lemon and lime right through to the most exotic sudashi, yuzu and pomelo, citrus is a magic ingredient.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
I do, but I do it out of curiosity and passion — not judgment. And it’s not just the food. I notice everything: flavors, technique, the service, the ambiance, even the body language of the staff. All of these things are part of the experience of dining out.
What’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants?
I’d say it’s lack of attention to detail — whether that’s the seasoning, the temperature, or the plating. Consistency is key to delivering a good experience, and it’s often the first thing to slip under pressure.
What’s your favorite cuisine?
I am from Kalamata and my favorite cuisine is Greek — hands down. It’s simple, honest food with bold flavors, fresh ingredients, and a deep connection to tradition. It’s really hard not to love!
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
A frittata. It’s quick, versatile, and always satisfying. You can toss in whatever’s in your fridge, and it’s still going to feel like a proper meal.
What customer request or behavior most annoys you?
Honestly, no request really annoys me. Guests have different tastes and needs, and part of our job is to make them feel welcome. It’s all part of the experience.
What’s your favorite dish to cook and why?
It’s tough to pick a favorite. I just really love cooking anything that lets me be creative and connect with people through food. That being said, I’m very lucky because my wife is an excellent cook too, so our kitchen is always full of inspiration and great meals.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
Some dishes are deceptively simple and incredibly hard to perfect. I’m thinking of things like a classic omelet, a risotto, or even fresh pasta. Simplicity really tests your skill. When there’s nowhere to hide, that when cooking can be at its most challenging. Your precision, timing, and technique have to be spot-on, and even the smallest misstep can throw everything off.
As a team leader, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laid back?
I’d say I’m firm but fair. Obviously, I believe in discipline and high standards, but I also believe in empowerment, mentorship, and leading by example. The best results always come from motivated team members who feel that they are respected and valued.
Chef Ilias’ Greek-style citrus and olive oil marinated sea bass with fresh sea urchin
Ingredients:
Fresh amberjack fillet, thinly sliced (sashimi-style)
Fresh sea urchin (uni)
Kalamata Extra virgin olive oil (high quality, fruity)
Lemon and orange juice (freshly squeezed)
Lemon zest
Sea salt (preferably flaky)
Fresh dill and chives (finely chopped)
Cracked black pepper
Instructions:
Marinate the Fish:
Arrange the sliced amberjack on a chilled plate. Drizzle with a blend of lemon and orange juice, just enough to coat. Add a few drops of olive oil, a pinch of sea salt, and a sprinkle of herbs. Let it marinate for 5–7 minutes.
Top with Uni:
Gently place fresh sea urchin lobes on top of the marinated fish.
Finish & Serve:
Grate a bit of lemon zest over the top, add a touch more olive oil, and finish with cracked pepper and a few micro herbs
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Watch How’ cafe in Riyadh
RIYADH: If you’re tired of overpriced cafes in Riyadh that look good but disappoint your taste buds, Watch How is a refreshing change.
This spot blends simplicity, quality and affordability — all wrapped in a calm, earthy atmosphere that feels like a slow morning in Europe.
We started with their classic croissant for SR12 ($3.20) which was flaky on the outside, soft and buttery inside, with that perfect golden crispness.
Their cinnamon social for SR16 ($4.27) was warm, slightly gooey, and topped with just the right amount of icing — not overly sweet, just balanced.
The baked potato and cheese had a comforting, homemade vibe with creamy filling and a golden crust.
The ribbon cheesecake stood out with its rich cream cheese, jam swirls, and light biscuit base. And the French toast — a soft brioche soaked in vanilla custard, caramelized on the edges, and finished with powdered sugar — was indulgent but not heavy.
Their drinks are just as well thought out. The SR12 latte was smooth and bold, with a silky finish, while the matcha, which goes for SR23 ($6.13), had that perfect earthiness, not bitter, and frothed to perfection.
Watch How, with its welcoming staff, is a space that invites you to stay, sip, and enjoy without rushing.
So what’s the downside? The parking situation. It’s a small, popular spot — which means parking is almost impossible to find during busy hours. Not ideal if you’re in a hurry, but definitely worth the effort if you plan ahead.
For more, check their Instagram @watchhow.sa.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Isabel Mayfair’ Restaurant in Riyadh
- The risotto zafferano — a concoction of carnaroli rice, bone marrow and a saffron emulsion — was creamy and the saffron was not too overpowering
In its first opening outside the UK, Isabel Mayfair has made its way to the Kingdom’s capital with a bang. The art deco, Gatsby-esque mansion is located in Riyadh’s bustling Al-Sulaimaniya district.
It offers terrace seating if you’re looking for a romantic spot or a girls’ night out-style cozy dinner.
We started with the tomato salad, which is a medley of seasonal tomatoes with labneh tahini dressing and red pickled onion — a fresh and simple way to kick off the meal.
We then opted for the lamb croquettes, made with slow-cooked lamb and served with aioli. The cheesy bites come in a crispy pastry with creamy filling and Parmesan snow. Although the appetizers were satisfactory, they were nothing out of the ordinary.
The risotto zafferano — a concoction of carnaroli rice, bone marrow and a saffron emulsion — was creamy and the saffron was not too overpowering. It’s perfect for those who want a taste of the local spice without too much of its complexity.
We ordered it alongside a 350 gram dry-aged rib eye steak, served with sweet potato puree and peppercorn sauce, which also pairs well with their smokey, roasted and grilled sweet potato and the broccolini with a spicy dressing and hazelnut. The steak was a definite highlight of the evening.
For desert don’t miss out on the tiramisu, which comes with an Instagram-worthy reveal. The sticky toffee pudding with warm toffee sauce and saffron ice cream is also a crowd-pleaser for a sweet ending.
Try not to miss their complementary cherry mocktail and sweet ’n’ spicy appetizer if you visit on a Wednesday.
How preventive healthcare is quietly driving sustainability in Saudi Arabia
- “Saudi Arabia is taking bold steps to integrate health, wellness, and sustainability through a series of forward-looking initiatives aligned with Vision 2030,” said Zaher
RIYADH: As global conversations about sustainability expand, one sector is emerging as an unlikely player in the environmental movement: healthcare.
Experts say a growing shift toward prevention — rather than reaction — is not only improving personal health outcomes but reducing long-term resource strain on hospitals, supply chains, and the planet.
“Preventive care and longevity-focused medicine play a critical role in promoting environmental sustainability by reducing the overall burden on healthcare systems,” said Dr. Walid Zaher, a Saudi scientist and founder of Rewind.
“When individuals stay healthier for longer through early detection, lifestyle interventions, and personalized medicine, there is less need for resource-intensive treatments, hospitalizations, and pharmaceutical use — each of which carries a significant environmental footprint.”
According to Zaher, every reduction in high-intensity care translates to real-world savings in emissions, energy, and medical waste.
“Fewer medical interventions mean reduced energy consumption, lower emissions from healthcare facilities, and less medical waste,” he said. “By shifting focus from reactive to proactive care, we create a more efficient, sustainable healthcare model that benefits both people and the planet.”
Saudi Arabia is taking bold steps to integrate health, wellness, and sustainability through a series of forward-looking initiatives aligned with Vision 2030.
Dr. Walid Zaher, Rewind founder
Dr. Ksenia Butova, founder of Detki Family Clinic and Molodost Clinic, agrees. She believes early diagnostics and family-centered wellness are not only medically superior — they are environmentally responsible.
“The costliest treatments — both financially and environmentally — come when disease is already in full swing,” she said. “Hospital admissions, emergency interventions, aggressive medications. But most of it can be prevented.”
She emphasized that check-ups today are no longer just routine, but predictive. “Conducting in-depth check-ups designed to detect diseases at their earliest, pre-symptomatic stages — or rule them out entirely — helps alleviate the pressure on the healthcare system,” Butova said.
Among the pillars of preventive medicine are targeted vaccination programs and ongoing wellness tracking — both of which lower overall consumption of antibiotics, emergency care, and overprescribed supplements.
“Nutrition science, mental health support, sleep optimization, hormone and micronutrient balancing — these are not ‘luxuries,’” Butova said. “They’re the new foundation of long-term health.”
The Kingdom is also investing in long-term well-being through national policy. “Saudi Arabia is taking bold steps to integrate health, wellness, and sustainability through a series of forward-looking initiatives aligned with Vision 2030,” said Zaher. “From national events like Saudi National Sports Day to wellness-centered urban planning, the aim is to embed health and wellness into the fabric of daily life.”
On the technology front, digitization of care is helping clinics become more efficient and less wasteful.
“Clinics that operate paper-free are sustainable,” explained Butova. “Everything from scheduling and medical records to treatment plans and follow-ups becomes digital. Patients have easy access to their data, and doctors spend less time on bureaucracy and more time on meaningful care.”
She also noted that online consultations reduce traffic, emissions, and time lost to travel. “One Zoom consultation means one less commute through city traffic, one less plastic coffee cup, one less parking hassle,” she said. “It saves time, energy, and reduces our environmental footprint.”
Both experts also pointed to a growing trend: longevity tourism — the merging of high-end medical care with eco-conscious lifestyle services.
“Longevity tourism is increasingly becoming a natural extension of the broader eco-wellness movement — one that merges sustainable living with proactive health optimization,” said Zaher. “In regions like the Gulf, there’s a unique opportunity to position longevity tourism at the intersection of luxury wellness and sustainability.”
Butova confirmed the trend is already gaining traction. “People are flying to us from Russia and Kazakhstan for access to rare vaccines … From Europe, the UK, and the US, we welcome patients seeking comprehensive check-ups, personalized recovery programs, and cutting-edge aesthetic treatments,” she said.
Still, awareness remains a challenge. Both Zaher and Butova stressed the importance of education in shifting habits and norms.
“When we educate the public about the benefits of preventive health measures, sustainable diets, and active lifestyles, we can shift societal norms toward more eco-conscious behaviours,” Zaher said.
Butova added: “Public awareness is everything. Without awareness, even the most advanced medical system won’t work.”
Her clinics run webinars, host “health school” events for families, and engage with communities through live Q&As. “One of the most important missions of healthcare professionals is raising awareness about obesity and metabolic health … That shift alone changes lives and reduces wasteful, unconscious consumption,” she said.
At a time when sustainability often means sacrifice, these experts argue that in medicine, it is quite the opposite: the more proactive the system, the less wasteful it becomes.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Almay Cafe’ in Riyadh
- The friendly and attentive staff further enhanced this inviting experience, making me feel right at home
Sip coffee amid waterfalls and lush greenery at Almay Cafe in Riyadh, which offers a tranquil and picturesque ambiance that stands out in the bustling city.
Upon entering the cafe, I was captivated by the atmosphere. With gentle sounds of flowing water and verdant plant life all around, it felt like stepping into a tropical rainforest, making it an ideal spot for relaxation or a casual meeting with friends.
I settled into a cozy spot and ordered a latte that was smooth and flavorful. The freshly baked croissant practically melted in my mouth.
The friendly and attentive staff further enhanced this inviting experience, making me feel right at home.
However, my visit was not without disappointments. One area where Almay Cafe fell short was its limited menu options. With such a stunning environment, I was expecting a wider variety of beverages and food items. The cafe offers only a few types of coffee and minimal snacks.
Almay was, regrettably, not as family-friendly as I might have hoped. During my visit, I was celebrating a friend’s birthday with her children, but we were asked to leave as children were not allowed.
While these issues did put a slight damper on my experience, I still appreciated the ambiance that Almay offers.
For those seeking a unique experience surrounded by nature, Almay Cafe is worth a visit.
