TOKYO: Washoku, the traditional cuisine of Japan, is being considered for designation as part of the world’s priceless cultural heritage by the UN this week. But even as sushi and sake booms worldwide, purists say its finer points are candidates for the endangered list at home. The younger generation is increasingly eating Krispy Kreme doughnuts and McDonald’s, not rice.
Among cuisines, only French cooking has been distinguished as a national culinary tradition. Other picks by UNESCO for its World Heritage list, such as food from Mexico and Turkey, are more specific dishes. Washoku embraces seasonal ingredients, a unique taste, time consuming preparation and a style of eating steeped in centuries of tradition. At its heart is savory “umami,” recognized as a fundamental taste along with sweet, sour, salty and bitter.
“That’s a delicate subtle taste. But younger people can’t even taste it anymore because they’re too used to spicy oily food,” said Isao Kumakura, president of Shizuoka University of Art and Culture, who is leading the drive to get washoku recognized. “It’s Westernization. Japanese should be more proud of Japanese culture.”
Kumakura believes UNESCO recognition will send a global message and boost efforts to save washoku, a fight that faces serious challenges.
Annual rice consumption in Japan has fallen 17 percent over the last 15 years to 7.81 million tons from 9.44 million tons, according to government data.
Fast-food chains have become ubiquitous in Japan, including Krispy Kreme, Domino’s Pizza and the perennial favorite McDonald’s. Their reasonable prices and fast service are attracting the stomachs of the workaholic “salaryman” and OL, short for “office lady.”
As washoku dims in popularity, fears are growing the community ties it historically stood for may also be withering, such as cooking together for New Year’s and other festivals.
Those are traditions closely linked to family relations as defined by home-cooking — almost always the taste of mom’s cooking, or “ofukuro no aji,” as the Japanese say.
Yasuko Hiramatsu, mother, housewife and part-time translator, learned how to cook from her mother and grandmother, although she also relies on several cookbooks and watches TV shows to beef up her repertoire.
One of her favorite dishes is ground beef and potatoes cooked in soy sauce, sake and sugar, that she says has a reputation as the way to grab a man’s stomach, and thereby his heart.
Both her husband and son love her “nikujaga.” But it’s a close call whether that recipe fits the strictest definitions of washoku, which is generally more about fish than meat.
Hiramatsu is old-style in making tsukemono from scratch, using “nuka,” or fermented rice bran, from her grandmother’s recipe to replicate the taste that runs in her family. She sometimes doesn’t have time and resorts to packaged stuff from the supermarket. But that’s not the ideal.
“Of course, sometimes I eat out and get French fries, but this is what has been eaten for the longest time,” she said of her home cooking. “It must be something in our blood.”
Washoku is always about rice, miso or soy-bean-paste soup, “tsukemono” pickles, and usually three dishes — perhaps a slice of grilled salmon, broth-stewed “nimono” vegetables and boiled greens. Umami is based on flavor from dried bonito flakes and seaweed, Japan’s equivalent of soup stock.
Washoku is also about design. Fancy ceramic and lacquer-ware come in varying sizes, textures and shapes. Food is placed in a decorative fashion, sometimes with inedible items for effect like an autumn leaf.
Pieces of food may be cut into flowery shapes or carefully wrapped around other food, tied like a package with an edible ribbon. Recipes celebrate the seasons by focusing on fresh ingredients.
Kenji Uda, 47, the chief chef at Tokyo restaurant Irimoya Bettei, where he makes blowfish sashimi and crab cooked in rice, says he was 17 when he decided to devote his life to washoku.
“Japanese food is so beautiful to look at,” he said. “But it takes a lot of time. People are working and busy, and no longer have that kind of time.”
The exodus from washoku is apparent at Taiwa Gakuen, a Kyoto-based school for chefs, where the biggest number of students wants to learn Italian cuisine, followed by French, and interest in washoku is growing only among overseas students.
Seiji Tanaka, who heads the school, hopes the UNESCO decision expected at meeting in Azerbaijan this week will help draw Japanese people back to tradition.
“It’s endangered,” he said.
Tanaka believes the survival of washoku is critical because it’s linked with what he sees as the spirit of Japan, especially the family.
“The ‘wa’ in washoku means harmony,” he said.
In proper Japanese dining, the phrase “itadakimasu,” or “I am going to receive this,” is uttered, preferably in unison, at the beginning of a meal; “gochisousama,” or “thank you for the meal,” ends it.
Different from saying grace, the custom expresses gratitude not only to the chef but for the blessing of having food on the table — the grace of nature.
But even washoku experts say you shouldn’t feel guilty about not eating it three times a day.
Kumakura swears eating with chopsticks — daintily picking each bite-size serving, never piercing — is a symbol of Japanese-ness. But he acknowledges he often has toast and eggs for breakfast.
“Just please try to have washoku at least once a day,” he said with a laugh.
Japan food seeks heritage gong as young spurn rice
Japan food seeks heritage gong as young spurn rice
Where We Are Going Today: Spontini pizza in Riyadh
- Spontini currently operates over 20 stores across Italy and Japan, serving signature thick, fluffy pizzas and delicious slices worldwide
Spontini pizza at Roshn Front in Riyadh has made its much-anticipated Saudi debut. Hailing from Milan, this casual restaurant chain, renowned for its pizza by the slice, was established in 1953.
The first location, off Corso Buenos Aires, quickly gained fame for its unique offerings. The recipes have apparently remained unchanged over the decades, ensuring that the beloved pizza al taglio retains its original taste.
During my visit, I tried the margherita pizza, and one slice was more than enough—thick, fluffy, and bursting with flavor, reminiscent of the branch in Italy. We also sampled the lasagna, which, while full of flavor, did not quite align with my personal tastes.
To round off the meal, we indulged in a refreshing tiramisu dessert that was perfectly chilled.
Spontini currently operates over 20 stores across Italy and Japan, serving signature thick, fluffy pizzas and delicious slices worldwide.
Customers can expect all the Italian classics, including lasagna, various pizzas, and delightful desserts like creme brulee and profiteroles.
The venue prides itself on using fresh, fully Italian ingredients. Each pizza is crafted artisanally, with dough carefully kneaded and leavened daily. Picture a thick slice with a crispy base, soft dough, an ample helping of signature sauce, and a generous layer of cheese — it is a pizza lover’s dream.
Expanding into the Middle East in collaboration with Al-Shaya Group in 2018, Spontini opened in Kuwait and Qatar before arriving in Riyadh.
Up to 4 in 10 people could develop dementia after 55. What you can do to lower your risk
- Taking longer to recall a name or where you put your keys is typical with older age
- Prior studies estimated about 14 percent of men and 23 percent of women would develop some form of dementia during their lifetime
WASHINGTON: About a million Americans a year are expected to develop dementia by 2060, roughly double today’s toll, researchers reported Monday.
That estimate is based on a new study that found a higher lifetime risk than previously thought: After age 55, people have up to a 4 in 10 chance of eventually developing dementia — if they live long enough.
It’s a sobering number but there are steps people can take to reduce that risk, such as controlling high blood pressure and other bad-for-the-brain health problems. And it’s not too late to try even in middle age.
“All of our research suggests what you do in midlife really matters,” said Dr. Josef Coresh of NYU Langone Health, who coauthored the study in the journal Nature Medicine.
Dementia isn’t only Alzheimer’s
Taking longer to recall a name or where you put your keys is typical with older age. But dementia isn’t a normal part of aging — it’s a progressive loss of memory, language and other cognitive functions. Simply getting older is the biggest risk and the population is rapidly aging.
Alzheimer’s is the most common form, and silent brain changes that eventually lead to it can begin two decades before symptoms appear. Other types include vascular dementia, when heart disease or small strokes impair blood flow to the brain. Many people have mixed causes, meaning vascular problems could exacerbate brewing Alzheimer’s symptoms.
Measuring the risk from a certain age over the potential remaining life span can guide public health recommendations and medical research.
“It’s not a guarantee that someone will develop dementia,” cautioned Dr. James Galvin, a University of Miami Alzheimer’s specialist. He wasn’t involved with the new study but said the findings fit with other research.
Dementia risk is different by age
Prior studies estimated about 14 percent of men and 23 percent of women would develop some form of dementia during their lifetime. Coresh’s team analyzed more recent data from a US study that has tracked the heart health and cognitive function of about 15,000 older adults for several decades.
Importantly, they found the risk changes with the decades.
Only 4 percent of people developed dementia between the ages of 55 and 75, what Coresh calls a key 20-year window for protecting brain health.
For people who survive common health threats until 75, the dementia risk then jumped — to 20 percent by age 85 and 42 percent between ages 85 and 95.
Overall, the lifetime dementia risk after age 55 was 35 percent for men and 48 percent for women, the researchers concluded. Women generally live longer than men, a main reason for that difference, Coresh noted. Black Americans had a slightly higher risk, 44 percent, than white people at 41 percent.
Yes, there are ways to help lower dementia risk
There are some risk factors people can’t control, including age and whether you inherited a gene variant called APOE4 that raises the chances of late-in-life Alzheimer’s.
But people can try to avert or at least delay health problems that contribute to later dementia. Coresh, for example, wears a helmet when biking because repeated or severe brain injuries from crashes or falls increase the risk of later-in-life dementia.
Especially important: “What’s good for your heart is good for your brain,” added Miami’s Galvin. He urges people to exercise, avoid obesity, and control blood pressure, diabetes and cholesterol.
For example, high blood pressure can impair blood flow to the brain, a risk not just for vascular dementia but also linked to some hallmarks of Alzheimer’s. Similarly, the high blood sugar of poorly controlled diabetes is linked to cognitive decline and damaging inflammation in the brain.
Stay socially and cognitively active, too, Galvin said. He urges people to try hearing aids if age brings hearing loss, which can spur social isolation.
“There are things that we have control over, and those things I think would be really, really important to build a better brain as we age,” he said.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Kintan’ Japanese BBQ restaurant
- The vegetables are the perfect light pairing to an otherwise meat-heavy meal, and they are grilled and dipped in sauce or butter as well
Kintan is a lively Japanese BBQ restaurant perfect for families and friends alike situated in the Al-Wadi neighborhood of Riyadh.
A grill-it-yourself-style restaurant, Kintan brings out the meats for you to sear to your desired degree.
The restaurant is dressed in ambient warm lighting that creates a relaxing atmosphere without being too dark to detract from the fun or the visibility.
Kintan’s menu offers a selection of a la carte meats topped with your choice of sauce — miso, sweet soya, spicy garlic, and others — as well as a selection of chicken, lamb, and seafood for those less beef-inclined.
The vegetables are the perfect light pairing to an otherwise meat-heavy meal, and they are grilled and dipped in sauce or butter as well.
The meat is fresh and tender, with a variety of cuts tailored to those who like thick, thin, or fatty strips. It is also highly recommended that you give your strips an additional dip into the provided sauces before or after grilling for extra flavor.
They additionally offer six types of sushi rolls including a California roll, crunchy spicy tempura, ebi roll, and more, as well as some rice and noodle dishes such as beef or vegetable bibimbap and chicken or vegetable garlic noodles. The garlic fried rice is a must-have.
To accompany your meal are “agenomo,” or deep-fried dishes, and a variety of appetizers, including soups, gyoza, kimchi, chicken karaage, and spring rolls.
The appetizers felt a bit weak-flavored and lackluster. The “spicy addicting cucumber” and the “spicy addicting cabbage” were topped with a spicy sauce rather than marinated, lacking effort. The chicken gyoza and kimchi were also less than impressive and easily skipped.
Overall, if you are looking for a fun night out or hoping to indulge in conversation with your friends while you wait for your meat to cook, Kintan is a great place to be.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Sushisamba’ in Riyadh
- The Vida Brunch is offered on the last Friday of every month from 12:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. For SR195 ($52) per person, you can indulge in a thoughtfully curated set menu
Picture this: An afternoon filled with a delightful set menu, live entertainment and a vibrant atmosphere that feels like a celebration. Sushisamba in Riyadh offers the kind of brunch that lingers in your memory.
Nestled in the bustling King Abdullah Financial District, Sushisamba offers a fusion of Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian flavors that truly captivates the palate.
As soon as you step inside, you are greeted by a spacious dining area, a charming private room on the mezzanine and the stunning Samba Room — a glass-enclosed space that offers breathtaking views of the Wadi. The open kitchen, two sushi bars and a live robata grill create an interactive dining experience.
The Vida Brunch is offered on the last Friday of every month from 12:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. For SR195 ($52) per person, you can indulge in a thoughtfully curated set menu. If you are bringing kids, Sushisamba has a special menu priced at SR130.
What makes the Vida Brunch unforgettable is the live entertainment. Each month, a different DJ or live musician sets the mood, making every visit feel fresh and exciting.
The menu is a feast for the senses. I particularly enjoyed the corn fritters and pao de queijo as appetizers. For the main course, the black cod bolinho and robata salmon were standout dishes. The sushi assortment — three maki rolls and two nigiri pieces — was also enjoyable.
To finish off the experience, the chef’s selection of desserts is a sweet ending I always look forward to.
Sushisamba blends culture, music and design, embodying the spirit of Japan, Brazil and Peru.
Where We Are Going Today: Ramen Korean & Japanese Restaurant
- For those seeking a more interactive dining experience, the barbecue sets are a highlight of Korean cuisine, allowing diners to cook their own meals at their table
Nestled in vibrant Riyadh Park, Ramen Korean & Japanese Restaurant offers a delightful fusion of authentic cuisine. As one of the city’s most renowned dining spots, it stands out not just for its location but also for its commitment to high-quality ingredients and diverse menu options.
Visitors will enjoy the warm and inviting atmosphere, which perfectly complements the culinary experience. The extensive menu features a wide variety of Asian dishes, from crispy gyoza and fresh edamame to perfectly fried tempura. However, the true star here is ramen, with more than ten varieties catering to different tastes.
You might opt for seafood, with its delightful blend of flavors. The rich chicken stock serves as a comforting base, enhanced by fresh scallions, onions and choy. The addition of kamaboko fish cake, shrimp, and squid creates a harmonious medley, while the perfectly cooked ramen noodles provide a satisfying texture. Each bite is a reminder of the restaurant’s dedication to authentic flavors.
You may also try the jajangmyeon, a classic noodle dish famous for its depth of flavor. The combination of tender beef, sauteed onions and scallions, enveloped in a savory black bean sauce, is simply irresistible.
For those seeking a more interactive dining experience, the barbecue sets are a highlight of Korean cuisine, allowing diners to cook their own meals at their table. The set for two, featuring Wagyu ribeye, brisket roll and shrimp, is priced at SR290 ($77); while on the pricier side, this reflects the standard of both the food and experience on offer.
While the prices may be considered steep, the location and exceptional quality justify the cost. For example, the kimchi ramen at SR80 is testament to the restaurant’s dedication to providing a memorable dining experience.
Overall, Ramen Korean & Japanese Restaurant is a must-visit for anyone craving authentic Asian flavors in Riyadh.
