TOKYO: Washoku, the traditional cuisine of Japan, is being considered for designation as part of the world’s priceless cultural heritage by the UN this week. But even as sushi and sake booms worldwide, purists say its finer points are candidates for the endangered list at home. The younger generation is increasingly eating Krispy Kreme doughnuts and McDonald’s, not rice.
Among cuisines, only French cooking has been distinguished as a national culinary tradition. Other picks by UNESCO for its World Heritage list, such as food from Mexico and Turkey, are more specific dishes. Washoku embraces seasonal ingredients, a unique taste, time consuming preparation and a style of eating steeped in centuries of tradition. At its heart is savory “umami,” recognized as a fundamental taste along with sweet, sour, salty and bitter.
“That’s a delicate subtle taste. But younger people can’t even taste it anymore because they’re too used to spicy oily food,” said Isao Kumakura, president of Shizuoka University of Art and Culture, who is leading the drive to get washoku recognized. “It’s Westernization. Japanese should be more proud of Japanese culture.”
Kumakura believes UNESCO recognition will send a global message and boost efforts to save washoku, a fight that faces serious challenges.
Annual rice consumption in Japan has fallen 17 percent over the last 15 years to 7.81 million tons from 9.44 million tons, according to government data.
Fast-food chains have become ubiquitous in Japan, including Krispy Kreme, Domino’s Pizza and the perennial favorite McDonald’s. Their reasonable prices and fast service are attracting the stomachs of the workaholic “salaryman” and OL, short for “office lady.”
As washoku dims in popularity, fears are growing the community ties it historically stood for may also be withering, such as cooking together for New Year’s and other festivals.
Those are traditions closely linked to family relations as defined by home-cooking — almost always the taste of mom’s cooking, or “ofukuro no aji,” as the Japanese say.
Yasuko Hiramatsu, mother, housewife and part-time translator, learned how to cook from her mother and grandmother, although she also relies on several cookbooks and watches TV shows to beef up her repertoire.
One of her favorite dishes is ground beef and potatoes cooked in soy sauce, sake and sugar, that she says has a reputation as the way to grab a man’s stomach, and thereby his heart.
Both her husband and son love her “nikujaga.” But it’s a close call whether that recipe fits the strictest definitions of washoku, which is generally more about fish than meat.
Hiramatsu is old-style in making tsukemono from scratch, using “nuka,” or fermented rice bran, from her grandmother’s recipe to replicate the taste that runs in her family. She sometimes doesn’t have time and resorts to packaged stuff from the supermarket. But that’s not the ideal.
“Of course, sometimes I eat out and get French fries, but this is what has been eaten for the longest time,” she said of her home cooking. “It must be something in our blood.”
Washoku is always about rice, miso or soy-bean-paste soup, “tsukemono” pickles, and usually three dishes — perhaps a slice of grilled salmon, broth-stewed “nimono” vegetables and boiled greens. Umami is based on flavor from dried bonito flakes and seaweed, Japan’s equivalent of soup stock.
Washoku is also about design. Fancy ceramic and lacquer-ware come in varying sizes, textures and shapes. Food is placed in a decorative fashion, sometimes with inedible items for effect like an autumn leaf.
Pieces of food may be cut into flowery shapes or carefully wrapped around other food, tied like a package with an edible ribbon. Recipes celebrate the seasons by focusing on fresh ingredients.
Kenji Uda, 47, the chief chef at Tokyo restaurant Irimoya Bettei, where he makes blowfish sashimi and crab cooked in rice, says he was 17 when he decided to devote his life to washoku.
“Japanese food is so beautiful to look at,” he said. “But it takes a lot of time. People are working and busy, and no longer have that kind of time.”
The exodus from washoku is apparent at Taiwa Gakuen, a Kyoto-based school for chefs, where the biggest number of students wants to learn Italian cuisine, followed by French, and interest in washoku is growing only among overseas students.
Seiji Tanaka, who heads the school, hopes the UNESCO decision expected at meeting in Azerbaijan this week will help draw Japanese people back to tradition.
“It’s endangered,” he said.
Tanaka believes the survival of washoku is critical because it’s linked with what he sees as the spirit of Japan, especially the family.
“The ‘wa’ in washoku means harmony,” he said.
In proper Japanese dining, the phrase “itadakimasu,” or “I am going to receive this,” is uttered, preferably in unison, at the beginning of a meal; “gochisousama,” or “thank you for the meal,” ends it.
Different from saying grace, the custom expresses gratitude not only to the chef but for the blessing of having food on the table — the grace of nature.
But even washoku experts say you shouldn’t feel guilty about not eating it three times a day.
Kumakura swears eating with chopsticks — daintily picking each bite-size serving, never piercing — is a symbol of Japanese-ness. But he acknowledges he often has toast and eggs for breakfast.
“Just please try to have washoku at least once a day,” he said with a laugh.
Japan food seeks heritage gong as young spurn rice
Japan food seeks heritage gong as young spurn rice
Where We Are Going Today: ‘UPPER’ – burger spot in Jeddah
- The yellow cheese burger sticks to familiar toppings like iceberg lettuce, grilled onions, and a standard sauce
Located in the Al-Zahra District of Jeddah, UPPER is a burger spot that focuses on a small menu built around quality ingredients and generous portions.
While the menu is limited, the flavors are solid, and the casual setting makes it a decent option for those who enjoy burgers.
The wagyu beef burgers are the main draw. Served on a pretzel bun with either white or yellow cheese, the patties are juicy and well-prepared.
The yellow cheese burger sticks to familiar toppings like iceberg lettuce, grilled onions, and a standard sauce. The white cheese version offers a slightly different mix with baby rocca, onion jam, Dijon pepper sauce, and goat’s cheese.
Chicken options include both crispy and grilled versions. The crispy ones — including zesty and chipotle — come with American cheese and a mildly spicy sauce. The grilled chicken burger is lighter, with Emmental cheese and ranch dressing.
Among the sides, the grilled corn with spiced sour cream sauce stands out, and the fries are crisp and satisfying. Lamb chops are also on the menu, but they feel more like an add-on than a core item.
Desserts like tiramisu and molten chocolate cake are straightforward and familiar.
House-made sauces like the smoky chipotle mayo and zesty lemon sauce add a nice touch. For more, check the location’s Instagram @upper.sa.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Layali Al Iraq’ in Jeddah
- Layali Al Iraq has an enclosed grilling room where the signature grilled carp (shabout) is cooked upright over a fire
Layali Al Iraq restaurant in Jeddah offers authentic Iraqi cuisine in a traditional setting.
The restaurant’s spacious interiors feature classic Iraqi elements including mashrabiya woodwork, stone walls, murals, and a central fountain. Soft Iraqi music adds to the calm atmosphere.
While browsing the menu, guests are offered complimentary lentil soup, lemon slices, and saj bread — a nice touch.
I tried the tabbouleh, Mosuli-style kibbeh, and a cold mezze platter. The tabbouleh was large — enough for several people — and all the ingredients were fresh and flavorsome.
Layali Al Iraq has an enclosed grilling room where the signature grilled carp (shabout) is cooked upright over a fire. I ordered a 1 kg carp, which arrived nicely crisped and served with fresh vegetables.
The lamb shoulder came with both plain and tomato-based rice, plus pistachio-stuffed kebabs — hearty and well-seasoned.
To finish, traditional Iraqi tea istikanah is served in authentic cups by staff in traditional dress.
Service was quick, and prices are reasonable given the portion sizes. Visit @layali_al.iraq_restaurant on Instagram for more information.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘The Door’ restaurant in Riyadh
- Scallops and an accompanying sauce were also good, and the smoked baba ghanouj was particularly memorable
The Door restaurant in Riyadh has a cozy atmosphere that enhances the overall dining experience for food lovers.
We started with the lemon garlic pasta, which was bursting with flavor. A beef burger, topped with caramelized onion, was delicious, but the large serving may be too much for some. Fried cauliflower with sauce is also a standout dish.
We also tried the duck pate, which was elegantly served on a wooden spoon, and garnished with pistachios and raspberry preserves — a true treat.
Scallops and an accompanying sauce were also good, and the smoked baba ghanouj was particularly memorable.
The glazed shrimp was soft and perfectly cooked, although some may find the sauce a bit overpowering. However, the mushroom steak that I ordered medium-well arrived well done, and the chicken skewers we tried were not very impressive.
Pricing is reasonable. We spent only SR109 (roughly $29) for two. Service is excellent, with meals arriving within minutes, and the staff are friendly and attentive.
The Door is a small venue with limited seating, so booking is essential. The casual and relaxed ambiance makes it an ideal spot to enjoy a good meal.
Recipes for Success: Chef Davisha Burrowes offers advice and a tasty recipe
RIYADH: The Mediterranean dining venue The Lighthouse, founded in the UAE, recently opened its first Saudi outpost in Riyadh’s Diplomatic Quarter.
“I like to describe the Lighthouse menu as a celebration of fresh and seasonal ingredients that represent the Mediterranean culturally as a whole,” says its executive chef Davisha Burrowes. “I think it’s a perfect balance between East and West.”
Burrowes — who grew up in Barbados — caught the culinary bug early.
“I was around nine years old when I started cooking,” she says. “And that just grew around the age of 14 or 15. I did a few competitions in Barbados, and from there, I took my degree in culinary arts, worked around the world in different cuisines, then finally landed with the Lighthouse.”
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
I think all young chefs tend to seek perfection. I was definitely overthinking the little things. And when you overthink, you tend to overcomplicate and overseason. and throughout the years, with growth from maturing as a chef, I will tell anyone that lasts this morning.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Experiment. Don’t be afraid to try new things — new flavors, new blends. Go with the flow a little bit, and don’t be so hard on yourself. Some of the best recipes, by a lot of chefs around the world, have been born through mistakes.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish? And why?
Probably a fresh squeeze of lemon. It brightens, it lifts, it cuts through very rich flavors as well. But personally, I think the best ingredient you can put in a dish is love, cooking with your heart, with your passion, just enjoying it and giving respect to each ingredient, whether it’s something as humble as an onion or a piece of foie gras.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
It depends. If I go to somewhere casual, you know, I take it for what it is. I manage my expectations. I also work within hospitality, so I know there can be certain challenges within the back of house and within the operation. But if I’m going somewhere where I have high expectations, then I hold them to a certain level.
What’s your favorite cuisine?
I love Japanese cuisine. I worked in Japanese cuisine for two years, so I love a good selection of Nigiri platter. It needs precision, but it’s very, very simple.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
I love cooking spaghetti carbonara. It has very few ingredients, it takes minimal effort, but it also has its intricacies.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
If time’s not a factor, then it’s a barbecue. Going back to my roots, I’m from the Caribbean, and we do a lot of barbecue — it’s always summer in the Caribbean, so we do a lot of cooking outdoors. So, definitely a barbecue feast or a grazing plate.
What customer behavior most annoys you?
I wouldn’t say it necessarily “annoys” me, but I do get a little disappointed when some ingredients are swapped out of dishes — especially ingredients that are essential to the harmony of the dish. As chefs, we spend a lot of time curating dishes, making sure the flavors are balanced, so when ingredients are swapped out, it just changes the whole experience that we’re trying to offer.
As a leader, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laid back?
I prefer to inspire rather than intimidate. I’m very hands-on in the kitchen. I like to lead by example. I think that as a chef — or as a leader in any field — it’s important that the team see you do it, so they can have the encouragement to do it on their own.
Chef Davisha’s charred aubergine with labneh and hot honey harissa
(Serves 2)
Ingredients:
For the Charred Aubergine:
1 large eggplant (aubergine)
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp labneh (or see Labneh Mix below)
1 tbsp hot honey harissa (see Hot Honey Harissa below)
1 tsp toasted pine nuts
A few fresh chives, finely chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
For the Labneh Mix (optional, for a more flavorful labneh):
60g labneh
0g Greek yogurt
Pinch of table salt
1 tsp fresh lemon juice
For the Hot Honey Harissa:
20g butter
10g olive oil
3g harissa paste (or more for extra heat)
1g crushed chili flakes
5g smoked paprika
10g honey
INSTRUCTIONS:
Char the Aubergine: Preheat a grill pan or BBQ to high heat. Brush the aubergine halves with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
Place cut-side down on the hot grill and cook until charred and softened (about 6-8 minutes per side). For a true smoky flavor, roast directly over a gas flame or in a preheated oven at 220°C for 20 minutes.
Prepare the Labneh Mix (optional): In a bowl, whisk together labneh, Greek yogurt, salt, and lemon juice. Adjust seasoning to taste.
Make Hot Honey Harissa: In a small saucepan, melt the butter and olive oil over medium heat.
Add the harissa paste, chili flakes, smoked paprika, and honey. Stir well and cook for 2 minutes until fragrant. Remove from heat.
Assemble: Place the charred aubergine on a serving plate. Dollop with labneh (or labneh mix), drizzle generously with hot honey harissa, and scatter toasted pine nuts and chopped chives on top.
At-home tips
Labneh Substitute: If you don’t have labneh, use thick Greek yogurt, strained through a cheesecloth or coffee filter for a few hours to mimic labneh’s rich texture.
Char at Home: If you don’t have a grill, broil the aubergine in your oven or cook it in a cast-iron pan to achieve a similar smoky effect.
Harissa Hack: No harissa paste? Mix 1 tbsp tomato paste with 1 tsp chili flakes, ½ tsp cumin, and a pinch of smoked paprika for a quick substitute.
Honey Choices: Use mild, floral honey for a more balanced sauce or a spicy honey to really turn up the heat.
Where We Are Going Today: Korean Palace Restaurant in Riyadh
- The cheese tteokbokki came bubbling in a hot stone bowl, spicy and rich, with gooey cheese melting into the sweet chili sauce
Tucked away on Al-Takhassusi Street, Korean Palace is one of Riyadh’s oldest spots for Korean cuisine, and a nostalgic throwback for those who value flavor over flash.
It’s visibly dated, with worn interiors and a lingering scent that suggests it could benefit from a deep renovation. Still, what it lacks in ambiance, it more than makes up for in taste.
We started with complimentary Korean sides, pickled radish, kimchi, and marinated greens, a generous and flavorful tradition that sets the tone. Then came a table full of classics, each arriving surprisingly fast.
The highlight of the evening? The transparent glass noodles, chewy, perfectly seasoned, and bursting with umami. This was hands down the best dish, and one I’d return for.
The cheese tteokbokki came bubbling in a hot stone bowl, spicy and rich, with gooey cheese melting into the sweet chili sauce.
We also ordered the bibimbap, served hot with colorful vegetables and beef, and the beef sizzling plate, which was tender and satisfying.
The dumplings, delicately wrapped in cabbage leaves, were comforting but mild. The only miss was the tofu soup, which fell flat in flavor and didn’t deliver the depth I expected.
Despite the outdated setting, the overall food quality was impressive. It’s a place that reminds you why people still queue up for spots like this, for food that feels home-cooked, unapologetically traditional, and generously portioned.
Don’t come expecting a trendy hangout. Come for hearty Korean food that gets the job done.
