TOKYO: Washoku, the traditional cuisine of Japan, is being considered for designation as part of the world’s priceless cultural heritage by the UN this week. But even as sushi and sake booms worldwide, purists say its finer points are candidates for the endangered list at home. The younger generation is increasingly eating Krispy Kreme doughnuts and McDonald’s, not rice.
Among cuisines, only French cooking has been distinguished as a national culinary tradition. Other picks by UNESCO for its World Heritage list, such as food from Mexico and Turkey, are more specific dishes. Washoku embraces seasonal ingredients, a unique taste, time consuming preparation and a style of eating steeped in centuries of tradition. At its heart is savory “umami,” recognized as a fundamental taste along with sweet, sour, salty and bitter.
“That’s a delicate subtle taste. But younger people can’t even taste it anymore because they’re too used to spicy oily food,” said Isao Kumakura, president of Shizuoka University of Art and Culture, who is leading the drive to get washoku recognized. “It’s Westernization. Japanese should be more proud of Japanese culture.”
Kumakura believes UNESCO recognition will send a global message and boost efforts to save washoku, a fight that faces serious challenges.
Annual rice consumption in Japan has fallen 17 percent over the last 15 years to 7.81 million tons from 9.44 million tons, according to government data.
Fast-food chains have become ubiquitous in Japan, including Krispy Kreme, Domino’s Pizza and the perennial favorite McDonald’s. Their reasonable prices and fast service are attracting the stomachs of the workaholic “salaryman” and OL, short for “office lady.”
As washoku dims in popularity, fears are growing the community ties it historically stood for may also be withering, such as cooking together for New Year’s and other festivals.
Those are traditions closely linked to family relations as defined by home-cooking — almost always the taste of mom’s cooking, or “ofukuro no aji,” as the Japanese say.
Yasuko Hiramatsu, mother, housewife and part-time translator, learned how to cook from her mother and grandmother, although she also relies on several cookbooks and watches TV shows to beef up her repertoire.
One of her favorite dishes is ground beef and potatoes cooked in soy sauce, sake and sugar, that she says has a reputation as the way to grab a man’s stomach, and thereby his heart.
Both her husband and son love her “nikujaga.” But it’s a close call whether that recipe fits the strictest definitions of washoku, which is generally more about fish than meat.
Hiramatsu is old-style in making tsukemono from scratch, using “nuka,” or fermented rice bran, from her grandmother’s recipe to replicate the taste that runs in her family. She sometimes doesn’t have time and resorts to packaged stuff from the supermarket. But that’s not the ideal.
“Of course, sometimes I eat out and get French fries, but this is what has been eaten for the longest time,” she said of her home cooking. “It must be something in our blood.”
Washoku is always about rice, miso or soy-bean-paste soup, “tsukemono” pickles, and usually three dishes — perhaps a slice of grilled salmon, broth-stewed “nimono” vegetables and boiled greens. Umami is based on flavor from dried bonito flakes and seaweed, Japan’s equivalent of soup stock.
Washoku is also about design. Fancy ceramic and lacquer-ware come in varying sizes, textures and shapes. Food is placed in a decorative fashion, sometimes with inedible items for effect like an autumn leaf.
Pieces of food may be cut into flowery shapes or carefully wrapped around other food, tied like a package with an edible ribbon. Recipes celebrate the seasons by focusing on fresh ingredients.
Kenji Uda, 47, the chief chef at Tokyo restaurant Irimoya Bettei, where he makes blowfish sashimi and crab cooked in rice, says he was 17 when he decided to devote his life to washoku.
“Japanese food is so beautiful to look at,” he said. “But it takes a lot of time. People are working and busy, and no longer have that kind of time.”
The exodus from washoku is apparent at Taiwa Gakuen, a Kyoto-based school for chefs, where the biggest number of students wants to learn Italian cuisine, followed by French, and interest in washoku is growing only among overseas students.
Seiji Tanaka, who heads the school, hopes the UNESCO decision expected at meeting in Azerbaijan this week will help draw Japanese people back to tradition.
“It’s endangered,” he said.
Tanaka believes the survival of washoku is critical because it’s linked with what he sees as the spirit of Japan, especially the family.
“The ‘wa’ in washoku means harmony,” he said.
In proper Japanese dining, the phrase “itadakimasu,” or “I am going to receive this,” is uttered, preferably in unison, at the beginning of a meal; “gochisousama,” or “thank you for the meal,” ends it.
Different from saying grace, the custom expresses gratitude not only to the chef but for the blessing of having food on the table — the grace of nature.
But even washoku experts say you shouldn’t feel guilty about not eating it three times a day.
Kumakura swears eating with chopsticks — daintily picking each bite-size serving, never piercing — is a symbol of Japanese-ness. But he acknowledges he often has toast and eggs for breakfast.
“Just please try to have washoku at least once a day,” he said with a laugh.
Japan food seeks heritage gong as young spurn rice
Japan food seeks heritage gong as young spurn rice
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Onda’ Coffee in Riyadh
- Onda offers a range of pre-packaged pastries, such as croissants in plain, cheese, and zaatar flavors
With several branches across Riyadh, Onda is a quiet, cozy coffee shop that offers a peaceful setting — ideal for studying or working.
Music, if played, is usually kept at a low volume, which helps maintain a calm atmosphere.
The menu includes a variety of hot and cold beverages, such as espresso-based drinks, iced teas, and seasonal options like hot chocolate raspberry and Arabian latte.
While the cold drinks include flavored iced teas like raspberry and peach, these are made with syrups rather than fresh fruit.
Onda also offers a range of pre-packaged pastries, such as croissants in plain, cheese, and zaatar flavors. These are reheated on-site, which is common in many Riyadh cafes, but there is no in-house bakery.
The interiors are simple and calming, with blue and white decor, comfortable seating, and plenty of charging outlets. Each location features a small bookshelf for guests to browse, adding to the relaxed vibe.
Outdoor seating — especially in the Diplomatic Quarter — is a nice touch, with some locations offering views of lively streets.
Onda is also open from 6 a.m. to 3 a.m., making it a convenient spot for both early risers and night owls.
Where We Are Going Today: Tar’fay cafe in Alkhobar
- Tar’fay hosts a treasure trove of items and every space is full of vibrant and inspiring art to help fuel your creative energy as you fuel up on caffeine
In historic northern Alkhobar — where tradition and the contemporary collide — lies a quintessential Eastern Province cafe: The eclectic and quirky world of Tar’fay.
A kaleidoscope of color and craft, the cafe is the best-kept local secret.
Everything we tried was delicious — their famous cake slice, affectionately known as “cake heart of Khobar,” features a tiny red heart in the corner and goes for SR15 ($4).
Opened in 2023, the cafe is the brainchild of a Saudi woman creative whose name it proudly carries. More than just a cafe, Tar’fay hosts a variety of artsy events; their recent calendar has been packed with workshops like junk journaling, rubber-stamp making and a teddy bear workshop.
This is the place where you would take someone from out of town to show them the aura and essence of Alkhobar.
It is also the spot in which locals park their laptops and work while sipping on some coffee or matcha.
Tar’fay hosts a treasure trove of items and every space is full of vibrant and inspiring art to help fuel your creative energy as you fuel up on caffeine. They even have fun mugs that feel like a hug for your hands.
It is an Instagram and TikTok haven but also a great spot to slow down and delve into a physical book — many of which are supplied on the coffee tables.
Tar’fay is a gathering space for creatives with a large communal table and plenty of nooks to nestle in and read, or scroll on your phone.
The cafe is open daily. Check out Tar’fay’s Instagram page for more @tarfay.sa.
Recipes for success: Chef Georges Ikhtiar offers advice and a tasty beef recipe
DUBAI: Georges Ikhtiar, head chef at Amelia Dubai, grew up in Beirut, where he remembers watching his mother cook “by instinct, without recipes or rules.”
That early exposure sparked a curiosity not just for flavors, but for the process of cooking — how ingredients transform, how timing and technique matter. This eventually led him to Lebanon’s Ecole Hôtelière.
A pivotal career moment came during his time in Peru, where he was introduced to the country’s bold, acidic and layered flavors. This now shapes his approach at Amelia, where he blends Peruvian ingredients with Japanese methods.
Here, Ikhtiar reflects on how mistakes can lead to creative breakthroughs, and gives his thoughts on simplicity in cooking.
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
Like many young chefs, I believed that more was more — that adding extra ingredients or steps would somehow elevate a dish. I loved experimenting, and while that spirit of curiosity still drives me today, I’ve learned that simplicity is key. The most powerful flavors often come from restraint and letting the ingredients speak for themselves.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Taste constantly. It’s the most important tool you have. And don’t let mistakes throw you off — every error is a lesson. Some of the best ideas I’ve had started as accidents. Cooking at home should be fun, not stressful.
What’s one ingredient that can instantly improve any dish?
In Peruvian cuisine, it’s definitely lime. It brings brightness, aroma and a sense of freshness that can completely transform a dish. Just a few drops can awaken the palate and sharpen and enhance every other flavor.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
A simple truffle pasta. I soak the pasta to speed up the cooking time, then toss it with a creamy truffle sauce, fresh shaved truffles and parmesan. It’s rich, comforting and comes together fast, but still feels luxurious.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
Always. It’s part of the job. I’m always observing, analyzing, and seeing what I like or don’t like. But I keep it to myself; dining out is also about experiencing what other chefs are creating.
What’s the most common mistake you notice in other restaurants?
It’s usually to do with balance or execution, like undercooked elements, seasoning that is off, or dishes that feel overcomplicated.
What’s your favorite cuisine?
I gravitate toward Japanese and Peruvian food, naturally, but I’m always curious to explore. I like to see how others approach flavor, presentation and structure. Inspiration can come from the most unexpected places.
What request or behavior by customers most annoys you?
Honestly, nothing. I believe taste is subjective and the customer is always right. We’re here to create an experience that works for them, not just for us.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
It is a dish called Adas be Hamid, which means lentils with lemon. My grandmother used to make it when I was growing up in Beirut. It’s incredibly simple but full of flavor and warmth. Cooking it always takes me back to my roots, and I love how food has the power to do that.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
Risotto. It’s a very delicate dish that reacts to everything — temperature, timing, movement, even the humidity. You have to be fully present when making it. One misstep and the whole texture is off.
As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback?
I’m direct and hands-on, but not someone who shouts. I believe in open communication, mutual respect and building trust. My team and I have worked together for a long time, so we understand each other without needing to say much. There’s a flow in the kitchen when everyone is aligned, and that’s what I strive for.
Chef Georges Ikhtiar’s hokkaido machu picchu recipe
Ingredients:
For the beef:
250g beef tenderloin
Salt and black pepper, to taste
Cooked over a robata grill (or any hot grill pan)
For the teppanyaki vegetables:
2 tbsp vegetable oil
20g Chinese cabbage, chopped
3 rainbow baby carrots, sliced
20g mange tout (snow peas)
10g shiitake mushrooms, sliced
20g baby corn, halved
1 spring onion, thickly sliced
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp kimchi sauce
2 tbsp sake sauce (optional for extra depth)
For the shiitake sauce:
300g fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced
1L fresh cream
200ml milk
Salt and black pepper, to taste
1 small onion, chopped
1 tbsp butter
Instructions:
1. Grill the beef:
Season beef with salt and pepper. Grill on a robata grill until cooked to your liking. Let it rest before slicing.
2. Sauté the vegetables:
Heat oil in a pan. Add the vegetables and stir-fry for a few minutes.
Add soy sauce, kimchi sauce, and sake sauce (if using). Stir well and cook until just tender. Season with pepper.
3. Make the shiitake sauce:
In a saucepan, sauté onions and mushrooms in butter until soft.
Add cream, milk, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and let simmer. Boil twice to bring out full flavor, then remove from heat.
To plate:
Slice the grilled beef.
Place the sautéed vegetables on a serving plate.
Lay the beef slices on top.
Spoon the warm shiitake sauce to the side or over the top.
Optional: If using a hot stone for serving, you can lightly reheat the meat on it just before eating for a fun finishing touch.
Where We Are Going Today: Iris Cafe in Riyadh: diverse menu, inviting atmosphere. What’s not to like?
Iris Cafe is an elegant dining destination nestled within the new Ramla Terraza complex, offering a delightful blend of food and ambiance. Located on King Fahd Road in the Sahafah district of Riyadh, this cafe and restaurant boasts a beautiful interior, complemented by both indoor and outdoor seating options. The upper floor features a stunning garden with an open seating area and a mocktail bar, perfect for enjoying a refreshing drink in a serene environment.
The menu at Iris Cafe is a culinary journey, showcasing gourmet dishes inspired by international cuisines, including Mediterranean, Japanese, and Latin American flavors. Guests can indulge in a variety of offerings, from sandwiches and pasta to vibrant salads. The drink selection is equally impressive, featuring specialty coffees and a creative array of mocktails alongside delicious desserts.
Visitors may begin with the Iris Oriental Dips, which include creamy black hummus, spicy roasted chickpeas, and special muhammara seasoned with parmesan cheese and fresh basil, all served with homemade crackers. This appetizer sets a high standard for the meal to follow and does not disappoint.
However, the chicken tacos, featuring buttermilk-fried chicken topped with Asian slaw in a soft tortilla, are less memorable. On the other hand, the crispy chicken and shrimp wontons served with sweet chili and lime sauce are a highlight and a must-try.
For the main course, you may try the glazed chicken, marinated and grilled with pomegranate sauce. The beef cheek, slow-cooked for 12 hours and served with caramelized onion cream, is absolutely delicious. This dish is a standout and sure to impress anyone looking for tender, flavorful meat.
The San Sebastian cheesecake is rich and incredibly satisfying. Overall, Iris Cafe offers a wonderful dining experience with its diverse menu and inviting atmosphere, making it a must-visit spot in Riyadh.
Recipes for success: Chef Jonathan Bouthiaux of Banyan Tree Dubai offers advice and a tasty lobster recipe
DUBAI: From Michelin-starred kitchens in France to luxury resorts across the globe, Chef Jonathan Bouthiaux has built a career defined by precision, creativity and a passion for sharing culinary stories.
His journey began in Saint-Malo, Brittany, and took an unexpected turn through charity work in Africa, where cooking became more than a skill — it became a calling. Now, as the executive chef at Banyan Tree Dubai, Bouthiaux oversees the kitchens and menus across the resort.
Here, the chef talks about learning to keep dishes simple, trusting good ingredients, and how he leads his team to create memorable dining experiences.
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
Like many young chefs, I used to overcomplicate things, too many elements on a plate, trying to impress instead of letting the ingredients speak. Over time, I learned that clarity, restraint and seasonality make a stronger impact than complexity for complexity’s sake.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Master the basics. Learn how to season correctly and respect your ingredients. Do not stress. Cooking should bring joy. If you forget an ingredient, improvise. Some of the best dishes are born from happy accidents.
What ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Acidity, like a touch of fresh lemon juice or a splash of good vinegar, can instantly elevate a dish by bringing balance, brightness and depth. It sharpens flavors and adds complexity. Another game-changer? Infused herb oils; a simple drizzle of basil or rosemary oil can completely transform a dressing or a finished plate, adding aromatic intensity and a refined, layered finish.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
I naturally notice the details — it comes with the territory — but I always try to appreciate the overall experience.
What’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants?
It’s not always to do with technique. Often, it’s about intent. You can sense when a dish has been prepared out of habit rather than with care. In a city like Dubai, ingredient quality and value also stand out. Today’s guests are discerning. They expect transparency and authenticity. Honest flavors and thoughtful sourcing always make a difference.
When you go out to eat, what’s your favorite cuisine?
I enjoy discovering all types of cuisine, especially when it’s something new or unexpected. That said, I am particularly drawn to Japanese and Italian food. Both are rooted in simplicity, precision and a deep respect for ingredients — values that strongly resonate with me. I also have a solid background in these cuisines, so I find myself naturally appreciating the balance, technique and cultural expression they bring to the table.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
A miso-glazed salmon with a side of steamed greens and sesame brown rice. It’s light, nutrient-rich and packed with umami. Plus, it comes together fast without sacrificing flavor or elegance. I always look for that sweet spot between health, simplicity, and satisfaction — something that feels good to eat and is good for you.
What customer request most frustrates you?
I’m open to adjustments where possible, but I find that excessive alterations to a dish can sometimes disrupt the flow of the dining experience. Dining should be about trusting the chef’s vision and embracing the flavors as they’re crafted. That said, our priority is always ensuring our guests feel satisfied and valued.
What’s your favorite dish to cook and why?
One of my favorites is Homard à l'Armoricaine (Lobster Armoricaine). This classic French recipe is special to me, as I’m originally from Saint-Malo, Brittany, where I first learned it at the Michelin-starred restaurant La Duchesse Anne. The dish is a true test of technique, requiring multiple steps — from preparing the lobster to creating a rich, flavorful sauce. It is a celebration of fresh lobster and bold flavors, and I enjoy the process as much as the final result. This dish always brings me back to my roots in Brittany and reminds me why I’m so passionate about cuisine.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
One dish that requires a high level of technique and precision is the pithiviers—a beautifully intricate puff pastry pie, often filled with game or foie gras, and fresh black truffle. It showcases the kind of refined execution I truly enjoy. The balance of flavors, the evenness of the puff pastry, and the perfect seal all need to come together seamlessly. It’s not just a dish, it’s a statement of culinary skill and elegance.
As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback?
I oversee multiple restaurants, so it’s about building a culture. I believe in structure, consistency and leading by example. Discipline is essential, but not through fear — through clarity, respect and accountability. I focus on empowering my team, mentoring young chefs, and fostering an environment where excellence is the standard, not the exception. Consistency is key — without it, even the most creative ideas lose their value. At the end of the day, we are here to deliver memorable experiences, and that begins with a motivated, aligned team.
RECIPE: Chef Jonathan’s lobster linguini
For the Lobster Bisque:
Ingredients:
1 kg lobster shells (from raw or cooked lobster)
80 g white onion (1 small), chopped
40 g carrot (½ medium), chopped
60 g celery (1 large stalk), chopped
15 g garlic (3 cloves), crushed
50 g tomato paste (3 tbsp)
2.8 L water
2 tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
For the pasta:
500 g linguine pasta
2 whole lobster (about 500–600 g)
2 tbsp olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
320 g tomato sauce
160 ml lobster bisque (from above)
40 g confit or roasted cherry tomatoes
8 g fresh tarragon, chopped (plus a few leaves for garnish)
Step-by-step instructions
Make the lobster bisque (can be made ahead)
Preheat the oven to 200°C (390°F).
Place lobster shells on a baking tray and roast for 20 minutes.
In a large pot, heat olive oil, then sauté the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic for 6–8 minutes.
Add the roasted shells and tomato paste. Stir and cook for 5 minutes.
Add 2.8 L water, bring to a boil, then lower heat, cover, and simmer for 1 hour 30 minutes.
Blend the mixture using a hand blender or standard blender.
Strain through a fine sieve. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Cook the lobster:
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the lobster and poach for 5–6 minutes.
Remove, cool slightly, then crack and remove the meat. Slice into bite-sized pieces.
Heat a small pan with a knob of butter and quickly flash the lobster meat to finish.
Cook the pasta:
Boil linguine in salted water until just al dente (around 8–9 minutes).
Drain and set aside, reserving a bit of pasta water.
Assemble the dish:
In a large pan, heat 2 tbsp olive oil and sauté minced garlic until fragrant.
Add the tomato sauce and lobster bisque. Simmer for 2–3 minutes.
Add cooked pasta and toss well to coat. If needed, add a splash of pasta water.
Add chopped tarragon, cherry tomatoes, and the lobster meat. Mix gently for 1–2 minutes.
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
To serve:
Plate the pasta in a warm bowl or shallow plate.
Top with lobster pieces, cherry tomatoes, and a spoon of sauce.
Garnish with fresh tarragon leaves, lobster foam (optional), and a drizzle of basil oil (optional).
