For many, the ancient city of Jerusalem conjures tense images; a front-line of the Palestinian-Israeli conflict, where cultures clash and borderlines appear to blur. Indeed, even after a long forty-eight years of Israeli occupation, the city and its residents remain on edge, awaiting the next sectarian stirrings.
Yet beyond the complexities and tragedy of this seemingly insurmountable territorial impasse lies a city of treasure that must not be overlooked; a city characterized by diversity, strength, and a rich heritage of conquest and revival that makes it what it is today. It is for these reasons that Jerusalem welcomes an average of four million tourists annually, drawn by its beauty and intrigue.
History
Jerusalem is considered to be a holy city for the three major monotheistic religions in existence today — Islam, Christianity and Judaism — and has a known history that dates back to the fourth millennium BC. Since this time it has been the site of numerous conquests yet, arguably, it was the declaration of the Israeli state in 1948 atop deep-rooted Palestinian communities that has been the source of the city’s current tensions. Despite efforts made by Israeli occupation forces to erase Palestinian history in the area, the eastern side of the city (the ‘old’ city) still retains an unshakeable Palestinian character, presenting a once-in-a-lifetime experience for every adventurous tourist.
Historic sites and monuments
Jerusalem maintains a staggering 220 ancient sites and monuments that speak of its tumultuous past, and that prove its lasting charm. But there’s no need to be overwhelmed by this astounding number of historical jewels, as the majority are concentrated within the walls of the old city where one can easily find their way with the help of friendly locals.
Take the time to stop and chat with the locals as you sip delicious Sahlab (a thick, sweet, fragrant milky drink, usually topped with nuts and cinnamon) and ask these locals about their love for this evocative city. For many, it takes an extraordinary amount of resilience and determination (‘samoud’ in Arabic) to retain and continually assert their connection with the land of their ancestors.
In order to narrow down your sight-seeing list, some must-see sites include, of course, ‘Haram Al-Sharif’ where it is believed that the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) ascended to heaven. Religious and territorial conflicts aside, the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa mosque comprise an architectural masterpiece in a class of its own that should not be missed. Admission to the Haram Al-Sharif is free, and visiting hours run from Sunday to Thursday, 7.30 a.m. to 10 a.m., and again from 12.30pm to 1.30pm (except for times where Israeli-imposed closures are in place — check with locals).
Due to the often frenetic pace of life inside the high walls of the old city, it’s a good idea to schedule in some time to orient yourself and get an overarching perspective of the city. To do this, try taking an easy meander along ‘Ramparts Walk’. Unlike the crowded streets down below, the walkway situates you high above the hustle, giving you a bird’s-eye view of the city as you make your way up and along its outer-most stone walls.
Once your feet are firmly back on the ground, make your way to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where the internal architecture and sweet serenity are sure to impress you. If you have some time to spare, allow yourself to linger on a stone bench in one of the holy rooms, where you can take in the full range of smells, sounds and visual masterpieces that surround you.
Afterwards, nurture your newfound sense of relaxation by heading toward the Armenian Quarter and taking a stroll down the Armenian Patriarchate Road. From here you can easily find the St. James Cathedral and St. Mark’s Chapel. Despite receiving fewer visitors than other attractions, these two sites are certainly impressive in their own right, and can offer a break from the crowds that flood into the old city during peak tourist seasons.
Whilst in this quarter, walk through the gates of the Austrian Hospice and follow the stairs inside all the way to the top. Established as a meeting place for pilgrims in the mid-1800s by the Austrian Catholic Church, the building itself offers panoramic views of the old city that are difficult to beat. The best times to appreciate this incredible view are late in the afternoon, or at dawn when the city is only just waking up.
Other noteworthy attractions include the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer for its underground excavations and amazing bell tower view, along with the Pool of Bethesda and the beautiful St-Anne’s Church, whose visual splendor never fail to rejuvenate the weary traveler.
The famous souk
By now you’ll probably be ready for some browsing and gift buying — and there’s no better place to satisfy your inner shopaholic than the famous souk (market place) inside the old city. Here you can find everything from clothing, shoes and gold jewelry, to classic trinkets and souvenirs; not to mention an endless supply of pungent spices, nuts and special treats to enchant your sweet tooth. Be sure to bargain at each store for a good price that works for both the seller and your own budget.
Winding down
After a busy session in the crowded souk, it’s important to get some fresh air into those lungs, meaning it’s the perfect time to make the journey up to the Mount of Olives to enjoy a mesmerizing final view of the old city at the end of a big day. The Mount is the oldest continually used cemetery in the world, yet is anything but doom and gloom. It is home to a collection of holy sites including the Church of the Ascension, which dates back to 1910 and offers perhaps the best view of the wider Jerusalem area. To walk from the old city to the top of the Mount, you will need approximately half an hour, a bottle of drinking water, and some good walking shoes.
As you rest for a while atop the Mount of Olives, allow the falling dusk to settle your senses, as you pause to consider the immense beauty, intriguing history and unclear future of this majestic city.
Top eats to curb your hunger
Once you’ve taken some time to rest up in your hotel room following a full day of sightseeing, be sure to step outside again to enjoy the wide range of restaurants and street-side grills on offer. Among the best places to enjoy authentic Palestinian cuisine is ‘Askadina’, with its varied menu (offering both traditional and international options), great atmosphere, cosy fireplace, live music on select days, and professional service. Located just 10 minutes North of the Old City by foot, it’s sure to satisfy your inner-foodie. Other popular options are the ‘Azzahara hotel’ restaurant and ‘Pasha’s’ restaurant, famous for their quality, traditional food at reasonable prices.
On the other hand, if you’re feeling in the mood for something more casual, head straight to the sellers surrounding the Damascus Gate of the Old City, who offer an endless supply of delicious grilled meats, vegetables, and falafel sandwiches that will keep you feeling full for days. Not only will this leave your wallet in good shape, it will also give you the opportunity to sit on the grand steps outside the gate and watch the city go by. If you’re lucky, you might even be able to find a vendor who will deliver a shisha pipe to your feet for you to end your whirlwind tour of Jerusalem with.
Afterwards, cleanse your palate with a fresh dessert from one of the many sweet shops that will catch your eye as you walk back to your hotel room for the evening. Each store teases the palate with their own twist on delicious delicacies such as kanafeh, baklava, hareeseh and malabi; some of the tastiest calories you will ever consume.
Jerusalem and beyond
Once your excitement for traveling in Palestine has been ignited in Jerusalem city itself, be sure to make the journey over the separation wall to visit the vibrant and fascinating towns and cities of the West Bank, which offer lush Arab history, unique culture, hospitable locals and a sense of astounding resilience to all who dare to visit.
Stay tuned for more on these steadfast cities in Part 2 of this West Bank, Palestine series.
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A wanderer’s guide to Jerusalem
A wanderer’s guide to Jerusalem
Off the beaten track in Sri Lanka
- New visa rules have made it easier than ever for Gulf tourists to visit the island nation
TORONTO: Sri Lanka has long been a favored destination for visitors from the Gulf. Easy access, budget-friendly offerings, and diverse experiences – from cultural and historic landmarks to idyllic beach resorts and scenic treks – make it an ideal getaway destination. And now, there’s one more reason for Saudis to take a trip to the island nation. Last month, the Sri Lankan government announced that residents of Saudi Arabia, the UAE, Qatar, Oman, and 31 other countries can now visit without a visa.
The capital, Colombo, is probably the most popular destination in Sri Lanka, along with Kandy and Ella, but the less-frequented areas in the central and southern regions of the country are well worth considering.
My Sri Lanka trip started in Hatton, in the Nuwara Eliya region. Often called “Little England,” the region is a reminder of the country’s former colonial rule, with Tudor-style architecture and sprawling tea estates named after their former British proprietors.
The central province is home to Sri Lanka’s renowned tea highlands. Tea is an integral part of the island’s history and culture — as its former name, Ceylon, suggests.
My encounter with Ceylon tea starts at the Dunkeld Tea Factory, owned by The Dilmah Group, a family-run business that has become a global name. The tea is single-origin — meaning it is picked, cultivated, and packed from the lush, rolling terraces of the region. The tour takes guests through the history of Ceylon tea, which actually began with coffee plantations in the 18th century. But leaf disease devastated those plantations, leading to the demise of the short-lived coffee industry in Sri Lanka. In 1867, James Taylor, a Scottish man, planted the first tea clearing in Kandy. By the late 19th century, the country had become one of the largest tea producers in the world. Guests are also invited to a tea-tasting experience, including the Orange Pekoe, the robust tea blend that is a specialty of the region.
I stayed at Summerville, one of the five palatial bungalows once home to English plantation owners which have now been refurbished into boutique properties by the Ceylon Tea Trails Hotel under the Resplendent Ceylon Group. Perched at nearly 4,000 feet and set across 2,000 hectares, the bungalows are perfect for those seeking a slow, luxurious vacation. Guests can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the emerald hilltops from various vantage points or unwind in the several tranquil lounge spaces scattered throughout the bungalows. Or — with a private chef and butler on hand — choose to indulge in a five-course dinner that features the likes of a Yatawatte tea-infused roasted chicken or the Earl Gray fondant.
The tea trails, ranging from four to 15 kilometers long, connect the various bungalows, offering scenic hikes through the valleys. For those seeking adventure, the newly-inaugurated Pekoe Trail (a 300-km route with 22 phases) allows tourists to explore the rich biodiversity of the area. This trail can be experienced on foot or by rail.
The next leg of my trip was drastically different. As we were making our way down from the central region to Sri Lanka’s southern tip, the hilltops, winding roads, and cool weather gave way to palm trees, speedy tuk-tuks, and tropical weather.
In the Hambantota district, the biggest draw is undoubtedly Yala National Park, the second largest national park of the country, and the one with the highest density of leopards. An early morning or afternoon game drive provides ample opportunities to spot wildlife, including the elusive leopard, sloth bears, and elephants.
After the adrenaline rush of a wildlife safari, I head to our ‘glamping’ lodge — the Wild Coast Tented Lodge, another one of Resplendent Ceylon’s properties. The luxury camp is unfenced and wildlife will often wander into the premises from the park, giving guests a sometimes-gleeful, sometimes-terrifying experience.
The lodge itself is an architectural delight, focusing on sustainable design and the use of organic materials, including bamboo. It includes 28 “cocoons” or pods scattered throughout the jungle wilderness. The interiors feature rustic touches like cooper hardware, a leopard-claw bathtub, and vintage leather furniture.
It’s also here that the jungle meets the Indian Ocean. As I wandered along the rugged coastline or enjoyed a sundowner, I was once again reminded of the serenity that Sri Lanka has to offer.
Saudi Arabia’s recreational spaces ready for holiday season
AL-BAHA: Saudi authorities have announced extensive preparations of public recreational facilities ahead of the school holiday season.
The Al-Baha municipality has readied 142 parks and recreational areas, along with municipal squares, public spaces and streets, to welcome visitors and tourists.
According to regional secretary, Ali bin Mohammed Al-Sawat, these facilities span more than 4,188,559.98 million square meters and feature amenities including children’s playgrounds, green spaces, shade structures, lighting, sidewalks, seating areas and parking, and facilities for activities such as walking and cycling.
Meanwhile, the Eastern Region Municipality has completed the preparation of 979 parks and public squares, 18 public recreational parks, 14 waterfront areas and 213 walking tracks.
The facilities are timely as moderate weather conditions and school breaks attract more outdoor activity.
The municipality emphasized its commitment to regular maintenance of these facilities, considering them vital breathing spaces for citizens and residents.
Cloud7 Residence AlUla: A dreamy home away from home
- The gated resort is an ideal place from which to explore the ancient desert oasis
ALULA: Roughly half an hour’s drive from AlUla’s Prince Abdul Majeed bin Abdulaziz International Airport, Cloud7 Residence is the largest hotel in the area, boasting 301 modern bungalows. Each unit is thoughtfully designed, featuring individual private terraces from which guests can enjoy awe-inspiring views of AlUla’s stunning landscapes — mountains and lush greenery.
Cloud7’s decor blends the ancient with the trendy. Coupled with the traditional Saudi hospitality on offer, this is a truly nice place to stay. It’s the chillest hotel/resort I’ve been to in ages.
The beds are comfortable and the rooms are well-equipped, including plenty of places to plug in your devices. There are eco-friendly products provided, including chewable toothpaste that comes in tiny pills in a glass jar, and which activates once you have some water in your mouth.
The fridge comes stocked with complimentary sodas and plenty of water bottles at the ready — also useful for feeding into the coffee machine.
The main mode of transportation in the grounds, whether taking your luggage to your room, going to breakfast or to relax by the pool, or heading to your next activity, is a buggy. There was usually one right outside my door each time I emerged from my bungalow, but if there isn’t, you can simply call for one.
The residence is an ideal base for both short- and long-term stays, designed to accommodate the needs of leisure seekers, adventure enthusiasts and business travelers alike in its secure, gated space.
As part of the residence’s commitment to honoring local heritage, a series of murals created by local artists adorn the walls. Artists including Hanan Sami and Maram AlSelayem brought their individual styles to the project, creating pieces that highlight AlUla’s natural beauty and heritage. The venue’s community and culture manager, Fahad Alfaqir, said the artists who painted the murals are all from AlUla, as he is, and that they depicted local plants and flowers to decorate the spaces and used inscriptions from indigenous languages.
Cloud7 Residence AlUla’s dining experiences range from gourmet meals to relaxed, family-friendly options. Charcood, the resort’s signature restaurant, offers a selection of smoky, charcoal-grilled dishes crafted by Chef Jaume Puigdengolas. Open for breakfast, dinner, and light bites, it was my go-to place to start the day.
For those who prefer a more casual atmosphere, Off-Road Café serves lunch, dinner and light snacks in a laidback setting, perfect for watching live sports or movies on large screens. Guests can enjoy playing pool, darts and foosball, or indulge in some shisha outside.
For those seeking a relaxing time away from being away, the Pool Lounge offers casual dining with comfortable beanbags and a curated menu of international flavors, all presented poolside. It was perhaps my favorite spot to sit and literally reflect while the serene water reminds you to stay centered.
Cloud7 Residence AlUla is also in a prime location for exploring AlUla’s many historical sites. Visitors can easily reach attractions like the ancient city of Dadan, Jabal Ikmah’s rock inscriptions and — my favorite — Old Town. You can book guided tours, but the hotel also provides car and bike rentals.
Cloud7 Residence AlUla is more than just somewhere to stay; it’s an invitation to connect with the timeless beauty of AlUla — a place which makes you feel so big and so small all at once.
Tashkent: An underrated gem of the Silk Road
- Uzbekistan’s capital city boasts grand architecture and a rich cultural history
DUBAI: Tashkent may not be as famous for its architecture and culture as Paris, Rome or Barcelona, but the capital of Uzbekistan is an underrated gem for tourists.
With a population of more than three million, Tashkent is the largest city in Central Asia, which was formerly part of the Soviet Union. Tashkent — which means “city of stone” — is historically significant as one of several trading hubs (along with its neighboring cities Bukhara and Samarkand) on the Silk Road stretching from Europe to China. In the 8th century, the city was under Muslim Arab rule, and Islamic architecture, studded with stunning blue tiles that match the skies above Tashkent, remains a notable feature.
Under Soviet rule, Tashkent saw a rise in the modernist style of heavy, brutalist buildings beloved by the USSR — see, for example, the overwhelming, grid-like exterior of Hotel Uzbekistan, established in 1974. Between the 1960s and 1990s, such structures were part of a plan to rebuild the city after an earthquake in 1966.
One of the grandest buildings in Tashkent is the centrally located Alisher Navoiy Theater, an elegant opera house which opened in the 1930s, playing the timeless melodies of classical maestros Tchaikovsky, Prokofiev and Verdi. It is named after the poet and national hero dubbed “the father of Uzbek literature,” who was born in modern-day Afghanistan during the 1400s. Designed by the Soviet architect Alexey Shchusev, the 1,500-seat opera house radiates with European and Oriental stylistic elements. Its six lobbies are named after the Uzbek cities of Bukhara, Khorezm, Samarkand, Fergana, Termez and Tashkent.
A number of museums — devoted to history, art, geology and warfare — exist in the capital; one of the best is the highly ornate Museum of Applied Arts, which pays tribute to the delicate handcraftsmanship of traditional Uzbek artisans, and displays embroidery, pottery, miniature paintings, jewelry and weaponry. The building itself is a work of art too, showcasing detailed wooden ceilings rendered with floral and geometric motifs.
There are more than 2,000 mosques in Uzbekistan and one of its oldest is Kukeldash Madrasah, founded in the 1500s. The tranquil site, which has been restored and used for various purposes over the years, was originally built to host lessons in Islamic studies and the Qur’an (lessons which still happen today). It also houses an intimate calligraphy studio. The main facade features Arabic scripture and a pattern of arches, decorated by predominantly blue mosaics.
Close by is the lively and substantial Chorsu Bazaar, where locals go to shop for food, spices, crockery and trinkets. The ruby-colored pomegranate fruit is particularly popular, and also features as a motif on clothing, acting, in a way, as a symbol of the country. The bazaar sits under a blue ornamented dome, which was designed in 1980.
If you’re looking for a more peaceful location, then the Rakhimovs Ceramic Studio is the place to be. This haven of creativity, accessible by appointment only, aims to preserve the heritage of ceramic art. Full of decorated pottery pieces, the family-run space tells the story of four generations of ceramic masters, starting with one of Tashkent’s prominent 20th-century ceramicists and restorer of mosaics Mukhitdin Rakhimov down to his grandson, Alisher Akbarovich Rakhimov, who has passed along the art of pottery to his son, Shokhrukh.
And Tashkent’s attractions are not all on its surface. Be sure to visit the Tashkent Metro, which, in 1977, became the first subway system in Central Asia. Its 29 stations resemble art galleries, full of sophisticated columns, patterned domes, colorful tiles and murals with stories of national pride to tell. Perhaps the most famous station in the system is Kosmonavtlar (Cosmonauts), with its blue-and-white interior that inspired by the ‘space race,’ which occurred between the 1950s and 1970s. The walls of the station showcase large medallions depicting the Soviet Union’s leading astronauts, Yuri Gagarin and Valentina Tereshkova, respectively the first man and woman to go to space.
Tashkent is an ideal location for lovers of architecture who want to discover something atypical. It has a visually appealing landscape of old and modern buildings, demonstrating the city’s diverse cultural heritage, which is worthy of preservation and attention.
Craftsmanship of decorated wooden doors reflects Aseer’s artistic heritage
- Skills have been passed down through the generations
ASEER: Intricately designed wooden doors in the Aseer region are more than a mere means of entry for they provide a reflection of the area’s rich artistic heritage.
The doors display exceptional craftsmanship that has been passed down through generations, showcasing the unique skills and creativity of local artisans.
Researchers in architecture highlight these intricately decorated doors as essential components of the area’s architectural heritage.
In an interview with the Saudi Press Agency, Dr. Ali Marzouq, a professor of archaeology and Islamic arts at King Khalid University, spoke of the cultural significance of this art form.
He said: “People find psychological comfort in beautifying their possessions. The decorative motifs typical of Islamic architecture, including engravings and inscriptions, have become integral to building design, enhancing both functionality and aesthetic appeal.”
The artistry involved in carving and engraving wooden doors has elevated them to symbols of social status.
HIGHLIGHTS
• This tradition continues today, with many people updating their door decorations for holidays and special events.
• In the coastal Tihama region, some residents enhance their main entrances by planting aromatic plants, adding a delightful fragrance.
Marzouq said that the main door holds significant importance, serving as a reflection of the owner’s wealth and prestige. Elaborately adorned doors made from high-quality woods are typically found in the homes of the affluent, while simpler designs are more prevalent among average households.
This tradition continues today, with many people updating their door decorations for holidays and special events. In the coastal Tihama region, some residents enhance their main entrances by planting aromatic plants, adding a delightful fragrance.
Decorative elements on wooden doors and windows have been central to the architectural identity of the Arabian Peninsula since ancient times. These embellishments not only highlight the skill of the artisans but also serve as effective marketing for their craftsmanship.
Dr. Saleh Abu Arad, a researcher in the field, echoed Marzouq’s sentiments, emphasizing the significance of the “door and window industry” as a skilled trade that utilized local wood and various techniques to create doors and windows of diverse sizes. These architectural elements are often enriched with exquisite engravings and metal accents, such as handles and rings.
The choice of wood plays a crucial role in the final product’s quality. The talh tree, also known as the red acacia, which is renowned for its dense and cohesive fibers, is favored for crafting high-quality doors and intricate designs.
Carpenters have excelled in engraving beautiful decorations on both exterior and interior doors, utilizing the unique properties of the wood.
Traditionally, the decoration of internal wooden doors and windows is a task undertaken by the housewife, with assistance from female relatives and neighbors. These decorations feature a range of geometric, botanical, and symbolic motifs, contributing to a warm and inviting atmosphere for guests and visitors.
The Aseer region boasts a vibrant tradition of skilled carpenters who have mastered the craft of creating traditional architectural doors and windows. Inspired by their natural environment, these artisans incorporate a diverse array of detailed patterns and botanical designs into their work, intentionally avoiding human or animal imagery.
Researcher Maryam Al-Omari says popular designs often feature geometric shapes such as triangles and diamonds, which are intricately combined to enhance the overall aesthetic.
Acknowledging the significance of safeguarding this area of cultural heritage, the Ministry of Culture republished the works of the French professor Thierry Mouget in 2021. His comprehensive photographic records of southern Saudi Arabia from the 1980s showcase the region’s architectural styles, historical legacies, social dynamics, and customs, shedding light on the rich cultural fabric of the Aseer region.
