A wanderer’s guide to Jerusalem

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Updated 25 March 2015
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A wanderer’s guide to Jerusalem

For many, the ancient city of Jerusalem conjures tense images; a front-line of the Palestinian-Israeli conflict, where cultures clash and borderlines appear to blur. Indeed, even after a long forty-eight years of Israeli occupation, the city and its residents remain on edge, awaiting the next sectarian stirrings.
Yet beyond the complexities and tragedy of this seemingly insurmountable territorial impasse lies a city of treasure that must not be overlooked; a city characterized by diversity, strength, and a rich heritage of conquest and revival that makes it what it is today. It is for these reasons that Jerusalem welcomes an average of four million tourists annually, drawn by its beauty and intrigue.

History
Jerusalem is considered to be a holy city for the three major monotheistic religions in existence today — Islam, Christianity and Judaism — and has a known history that dates back to the fourth millennium BC. Since this time it has been the site of numerous conquests yet, arguably, it was the declaration of the Israeli state in 1948 atop deep-rooted Palestinian communities that has been the source of the city’s current tensions. Despite efforts made by Israeli occupation forces to erase Palestinian history in the area, the eastern side of the city (the ‘old’ city) still retains an unshakeable Palestinian character, presenting a once-in-a-lifetime experience for every adventurous tourist.

Historic sites and monuments
Jerusalem maintains a staggering 220 ancient sites and monuments that speak of its tumultuous past, and that prove its lasting charm. But there’s no need to be overwhelmed by this astounding number of historical jewels, as the majority are concentrated within the walls of the old city where one can easily find their way with the help of friendly locals.
Take the time to stop and chat with the locals as you sip delicious Sahlab (a thick, sweet, fragrant milky drink, usually topped with nuts and cinnamon) and ask these locals about their love for this evocative city. For many, it takes an extraordinary amount of resilience and determination (‘samoud’ in Arabic) to retain and continually assert their connection with the land of their ancestors.
In order to narrow down your sight-seeing list, some must-see sites include, of course, ‘Haram Al-Sharif’ where it is believed that the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) ascended to heaven. Religious and territorial conflicts aside, the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa mosque comprise an architectural masterpiece in a class of its own that should not be missed. Admission to the Haram Al-Sharif is free, and visiting hours run from Sunday to Thursday, 7.30 a.m. to 10 a.m., and again from 12.30pm to 1.30pm (except for times where Israeli-imposed closures are in place — check with locals).
Due to the often frenetic pace of life inside the high walls of the old city, it’s a good idea to schedule in some time to orient yourself and get an overarching perspective of the city. To do this, try taking an easy meander along ‘Ramparts Walk’. Unlike the crowded streets down below, the walkway situates you high above the hustle, giving you a bird’s-eye view of the city as you make your way up and along its outer-most stone walls.
Once your feet are firmly back on the ground, make your way to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where the internal architecture and sweet serenity are sure to impress you. If you have some time to spare, allow yourself to linger on a stone bench in one of the holy rooms, where you can take in the full range of smells, sounds and visual masterpieces that surround you.
Afterwards, nurture your newfound sense of relaxation by heading toward the Armenian Quarter and taking a stroll down the Armenian Patriarchate Road. From here you can easily find the St. James Cathedral and St. Mark’s Chapel. Despite receiving fewer visitors than other attractions, these two sites are certainly impressive in their own right, and can offer a break from the crowds that flood into the old city during peak tourist seasons.
Whilst in this quarter, walk through the gates of the Austrian Hospice and follow the stairs inside all the way to the top. Established as a meeting place for pilgrims in the mid-1800s by the Austrian Catholic Church, the building itself offers panoramic views of the old city that are difficult to beat. The best times to appreciate this incredible view are late in the afternoon, or at dawn when the city is only just waking up.
Other noteworthy attractions include the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer for its underground excavations and amazing bell tower view, along with the Pool of Bethesda and the beautiful St-Anne’s Church, whose visual splendor never fail to rejuvenate the weary traveler.

The famous souk
By now you’ll probably be ready for some browsing and gift buying — and there’s no better place to satisfy your inner shopaholic than the famous souk (market place) inside the old city. Here you can find everything from clothing, shoes and gold jewelry, to classic trinkets and souvenirs; not to mention an endless supply of pungent spices, nuts and special treats to enchant your sweet tooth. Be sure to bargain at each store for a good price that works for both the seller and your own budget.

Winding down
After a busy session in the crowded souk, it’s important to get some fresh air into those lungs, meaning it’s the perfect time to make the journey up to the Mount of Olives to enjoy a mesmerizing final view of the old city at the end of a big day. The Mount is the oldest continually used cemetery in the world, yet is anything but doom and gloom. It is home to a collection of holy sites including the Church of the Ascension, which dates back to 1910 and offers perhaps the best view of the wider Jerusalem area. To walk from the old city to the top of the Mount, you will need approximately half an hour, a bottle of drinking water, and some good walking shoes.
As you rest for a while atop the Mount of Olives, allow the falling dusk to settle your senses, as you pause to consider the immense beauty, intriguing history and unclear future of this majestic city.
Top eats to curb your hunger
Once you’ve taken some time to rest up in your hotel room following a full day of sightseeing, be sure to step outside again to enjoy the wide range of restaurants and street-side grills on offer. Among the best places to enjoy authentic Palestinian cuisine is ‘Askadina’, with its varied menu (offering both traditional and international options), great atmosphere, cosy fireplace, live music on select days, and professional service. Located just 10 minutes North of the Old City by foot, it’s sure to satisfy your inner-foodie. Other popular options are the ‘Azzahara hotel’ restaurant and ‘Pasha’s’ restaurant, famous for their quality, traditional food at reasonable prices.
On the other hand, if you’re feeling in the mood for something more casual, head straight to the sellers surrounding the Damascus Gate of the Old City, who offer an endless supply of delicious grilled meats, vegetables, and falafel sandwiches that will keep you feeling full for days. Not only will this leave your wallet in good shape, it will also give you the opportunity to sit on the grand steps outside the gate and watch the city go by. If you’re lucky, you might even be able to find a vendor who will deliver a shisha pipe to your feet for you to end your whirlwind tour of Jerusalem with.
Afterwards, cleanse your palate with a fresh dessert from one of the many sweet shops that will catch your eye as you walk back to your hotel room for the evening. Each store teases the palate with their own twist on delicious delicacies such as kanafeh, baklava, hareeseh and malabi; some of the tastiest calories you will ever consume.

Jerusalem and beyond
Once your excitement for traveling in Palestine has been ignited in Jerusalem city itself, be sure to make the journey over the separation wall to visit the vibrant and fascinating towns and cities of the West Bank, which offer lush Arab history, unique culture, hospitable locals and a sense of astounding resilience to all who dare to visit.
Stay tuned for more on these steadfast cities in Part 2 of this West Bank, Palestine series.

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Saudi adventurer triumphant after crossing the Empty Quarter

Updated 30 December 2024
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Saudi adventurer triumphant after crossing the Empty Quarter

  • Badr Al-Shaibani wants to champion Saudi Arabia as a land where heritage, nature and adventure meet

JEDDAH: Badr Al-Shaibani, a Saudi Arabia adventurer and entrepreneur, has successfully completed a 600 km solo crossing of the largest sand desert in the world.

Al-Shaibani departed from Umm Hadid on Dec. 15, the site of a famous meteorite impact, where he set up his first camp. He walked for over 14 days and completed the journey on Dec. 29 at the breathtaking Umm Al-Hayesh Lake — one of the Empty Quarter’s natural wonders.

Speaking to Arab News after completing his adventure, 45-year-old Al-Shaibani said: “Crossing the Empty Quarter on foot is one of the most thrilling adventures I have ever done. It is a really special experience.

Speaking of challenges he faced, Al-Shaibani said: “The first two days, I faced strong storms and winds called savi, and after a while the sun was also strong. (Supplied)

“I am so proud to be the first Saudi to traverse such a vast distance on foot, and I hope this journey inspires young Saudis to explore the nature of our country and spotlight Saudi Arabia’s diverse potential as a truly unique global tourist destination.”

His journey began by heading toward Tawil Al-Khatam, a challenging 200 km stretch that he traversed in five days at an average pace of 40 km per day.

Later on, Al-Shaibani continued toward Umm Al-Qurun, covering 90 km, before completing another 45 km to Bayd Al-Laha.

Being alone in the darkness, you explore something you wouldn’t normally see during your life. It was an amazing scene which makes you wonder how Allah created this part of the world.

Badr Al-Shaibani, Saudi adventurer

The third and final leg led him to the Al-Qa’d region near the Sabkha salt flats through a 60 km route. His expedition concluded at the breathtaking Umm Al-Hayesh Lake after trekking an additional 160 km.

From battling the weather to navigating endless dunes, this adventure pushed Al-Shaibani to the limit both physically and mentally. “I discovered the beauty and harshness of the Empty Quarter’s untamed wilderness, where there is a constant challenge, but the rewards are incredible.”

Speaking of challenges he faced, he said: “The first two days, I faced strong storms and winds called savi, and after a while the sun was also strong. Other than that, I am used to walking on ice or climbing mountains, but walking and climbing the soft sand was a big challenge for me. I really faced difficulty climbing the sand because it takes a lot of effort.”

Being so far from civilization exposed him to new experiences. “During the day I could see with my eyes. During the night, the exploration changes,” he said.

“Being alone in the darkness, you explore something you wouldn’t normally see during your life, it was an amazing scene which makes you wonder how Allah created this part of the world.”

He was happy to complete the adventure not only to add it to his achievements but also to document and capture the majestic beauty of the largest continuous sand desert in the world.

“The Empty Quarter, with its distinctive natural heritage and captivating beauty, stands as one of the Kingdom’s most remarkable yet largely undiscovered treasures,” he said.

“This destination has the potential to become a major attraction for tourists from home and abroad, especially with initiatives that promote desert tourism and encourage the exploration of the Kingdom’s unique natural environment.”

Al-Shaibani told Arab News he wants to inspire young people and champion Saudi Arabia as a land where heritage, nature and adventure converge.

 


Review: A visit to AlUla’s ancient kingdom ‘Wadi Al-Naam’

Photo by Sulafa Alkhunaizi
Updated 26 November 2024
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Review: A visit to AlUla’s ancient kingdom ‘Wadi Al-Naam’

  • Exploration was organized in groups of three riding in desert buggies to reach the hiking location

The Quest for the Ancient Kingdoms is a thrilling treasure hunt and adventure experience in AlUla’s Wadi Al-Naam, also known as the Valley of the Ostriches.

Before the journey begins, participants are provided with helmets, gloves, and hiking sticks, and are treated to a short lesson about the valley by the tour guide.

During our visit, the guide did a wonderful job making the group feel comfortable and translating the lesson from Arabic to English.

Exploration was organized in groups of three riding in desert buggies to reach the hiking location.

The buggy ride is a great chance to enjoy the iconic orange-hued rocks and mountains of AlUla.

At the first stop, participants can get a closer look at the fine details of inscriptions that tell the story of the Dadanites, the ancient residents of AlUla.

The 500-meter-long hike features various obstacles, like climbing up walls and steep steps, while offering breathtaking views of the unforgettable AlUla terrain.

Participants can choose between the Challenge Edition for adult adventurers or the Family Explorers version for a lighter experience. The treasure hunts are ideal for family or friend groups who want to get active during their trip to AlUla.

The quest concludes with a certificate of completion, refreshments, and a chance to interact with camels.

The best part of the experience is connecting with new individuals and putting your heads together to problem-solve as a team to win the quest.

Before going on this journey, please ensure you apply sunscreen, wear comfortable shoes, and stay hydrated as it will involve physical strength and energy to enjoy.

The Wadi Al-Naam Discovery tour costs SR200 ($53) per person and will be open until Feb. 27.

For more details, visit experiencealula.com.

 


UK, Omani princes launch journey across historic Arabian route

Updated 26 November 2024
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UK, Omani princes launch journey across historic Arabian route

  • Camel trek first taken by British diplomat Bertram Thomas in 1928 to be retrodden by team of six travellers
  • Prince of Wales, crown prince of Oman sponsoring historic coastal journey

LONDON: A group of explorers, backed by royalty, is set to undertake a historic journey, retracing a route across the coast of Oman first trodden by a British diplomat almost a century ago.

The Jewel of Arabia expedition, supported by William, Prince of Wales and Omani Crown Prince Theyazin bin Haitham, will feature six travelers, led by Mark Evans, following in the footsteps of Bertram Thomas, who first made the journey over 42 days in 1928.

Thomas made the trek to document the area and local wildlife, and was congratulated on his achievement by King George V.

The new journey, featuring camels but also modern off-road vehicles, will “raise awareness among young people both in and outside of Oman of the value of Oman’s natural heritage and biodiversity as well as the environmental challenges the country and the wider world face,” The Telegraph reported.

It will also feature podcasts and radio interviews with local stations along the way, meetings with local children and an online tracker so people can view its progress in real time.

Prince William told the modern explorers at the Royal Geographical Society on Monday: “I wish I was able to join you, but will be following very closely.”

He added: “The expedition will walk in the footsteps of British explorer Bertram Thomas and take in the wonderful coastline of Oman.

“They will be able to take in the beauty of Oman, and also see the damage done by climate change.”

Prince William added: “The expedition will not only highlight Oman’s biodiversity and natural heritage, but also symbolize the enduring friendship between our two countries.”

The prince added to guests at the Royal Geographic Society that he would “try and make something happen” regarding a future visit to Oman, teasing: “We’re in the planning process.”

The trek will see daily starts around 5 a.m. local time, and will aim to cross 25-30 kilometers per day. The travelers will sleep under the night sky, surviving in the desert without tents.

Evans, 63, said: “The stars of the show will undoubtedly be the camels.”

He joked that the animals are now in a “camel boot camp” in Oman to prepare for the arduous trek.

Alongside Evans will be Nigel Harling, Ana-Maria Pavalache, Dhirka Al-Mawali, Ibrahim Al-Hasni and Amour Al-Wahibi, all of whom are experienced explorers.

Thomas’ original expedition came at a time when the region was considered one of the world’s most inhospitable, known as Rub Al-Khali, or the “empty quarter.”

He worked for the sultan of Oman, and became the first Westerner to make the journey along the coast, spending much of his spare time exploring the country, navigating harsh terrain and warring local tribes.

Upon completion, he received a congratulatory telegram from George V, and used the experience as the basis for a book, “Arabia Felix,” which contains a foreword by T.E. Lawrence.

Meanwhile, 2025 will also mark 225 years since the signing of a friendship treaty between Britain and Oman.


Al-Baha farms offer an escape from busy lives

The farms are committed to sustainability and use eco-friendly practices to protect the environment. (SPA)
Updated 19 November 2024
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Al-Baha farms offer an escape from busy lives

  • There are activities such as cycling and hiking and some farms offer overnight accommodation

AL-BAHA: People seeking a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of their daily lives are flocking to tourist farms in Al-Baha region.

The centers offer a unique blend of natural beauty, agricultural experiences and recreational activities, where visitors can spend their time picking fruit, helping with crop harvesting or learning about organic farming techniques.

The farms are committed to sustainability and use eco-friendly practices to protect the environment. (SPA)

There are also activities such as cycling and hiking and some farms offer overnight accommodation, enabling guests to experience the beauty of the starry night skies.

The farms are committed to sustainability and use eco-friendly practices to protect the environment.

Fahd Al-Zahrani, director of the Ministry of Environment, Water and Agriculture branch in Al-Baha, said agritourism was becoming increasingly important in the region as it created jobs, boosted the local economy and helped diversify the tourism sector.

 


Virtual, AI-powered Saudi travel companion impresses visitors at travel exhibition in London

SARA was on show in the Visit Saudi pavilion at the World Travel Market, which began on Monday and concluded on Wednesday. (SPA)
Updated 09 November 2024
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Virtual, AI-powered Saudi travel companion impresses visitors at travel exhibition in London

  • The new app, called SARA, offers users insights and advice about the Kingdom’s tourist attractions in a natural and seamless conversational style

RIYADH: The Saudi Tourism Authority unveiled the beta version of SARA, its new travel companion app for visitors to the Kingdom, at the World Travel Market exhibition in London this week.

It allows users to interact with a digital female guide, powered by AI, who is deeply knowledgeable about Saudi Arabia and offers insights and advice about the country’s tourist destinations, historical landmarks, archaeological sites, cultural diversity, international events, and anything else a visitor might be interested in.

SARA was on show in the Visit Saudi pavilion at the World Travel Market, which began on Monday and concluded on Wednesday. Officials said she interacted directly with attendees, who were captivated by her engaging stories about the Kingdom’s tourist attractions and experiences, and the extensive information she was able to provide.

The app reflects the nation’s progressive approach to smart tourism, they added, and leverages the latest developments in AI so that it can respond to questions, understand visitor needs, and offer personalized information and suggestions in a natural and seamless conversational style.