A wanderer’s guide to Jerusalem

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Updated 25 March 2015
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A wanderer’s guide to Jerusalem

For many, the ancient city of Jerusalem conjures tense images; a front-line of the Palestinian-Israeli conflict, where cultures clash and borderlines appear to blur. Indeed, even after a long forty-eight years of Israeli occupation, the city and its residents remain on edge, awaiting the next sectarian stirrings.
Yet beyond the complexities and tragedy of this seemingly insurmountable territorial impasse lies a city of treasure that must not be overlooked; a city characterized by diversity, strength, and a rich heritage of conquest and revival that makes it what it is today. It is for these reasons that Jerusalem welcomes an average of four million tourists annually, drawn by its beauty and intrigue.

History
Jerusalem is considered to be a holy city for the three major monotheistic religions in existence today — Islam, Christianity and Judaism — and has a known history that dates back to the fourth millennium BC. Since this time it has been the site of numerous conquests yet, arguably, it was the declaration of the Israeli state in 1948 atop deep-rooted Palestinian communities that has been the source of the city’s current tensions. Despite efforts made by Israeli occupation forces to erase Palestinian history in the area, the eastern side of the city (the ‘old’ city) still retains an unshakeable Palestinian character, presenting a once-in-a-lifetime experience for every adventurous tourist.

Historic sites and monuments
Jerusalem maintains a staggering 220 ancient sites and monuments that speak of its tumultuous past, and that prove its lasting charm. But there’s no need to be overwhelmed by this astounding number of historical jewels, as the majority are concentrated within the walls of the old city where one can easily find their way with the help of friendly locals.
Take the time to stop and chat with the locals as you sip delicious Sahlab (a thick, sweet, fragrant milky drink, usually topped with nuts and cinnamon) and ask these locals about their love for this evocative city. For many, it takes an extraordinary amount of resilience and determination (‘samoud’ in Arabic) to retain and continually assert their connection with the land of their ancestors.
In order to narrow down your sight-seeing list, some must-see sites include, of course, ‘Haram Al-Sharif’ where it is believed that the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) ascended to heaven. Religious and territorial conflicts aside, the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa mosque comprise an architectural masterpiece in a class of its own that should not be missed. Admission to the Haram Al-Sharif is free, and visiting hours run from Sunday to Thursday, 7.30 a.m. to 10 a.m., and again from 12.30pm to 1.30pm (except for times where Israeli-imposed closures are in place — check with locals).
Due to the often frenetic pace of life inside the high walls of the old city, it’s a good idea to schedule in some time to orient yourself and get an overarching perspective of the city. To do this, try taking an easy meander along ‘Ramparts Walk’. Unlike the crowded streets down below, the walkway situates you high above the hustle, giving you a bird’s-eye view of the city as you make your way up and along its outer-most stone walls.
Once your feet are firmly back on the ground, make your way to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where the internal architecture and sweet serenity are sure to impress you. If you have some time to spare, allow yourself to linger on a stone bench in one of the holy rooms, where you can take in the full range of smells, sounds and visual masterpieces that surround you.
Afterwards, nurture your newfound sense of relaxation by heading toward the Armenian Quarter and taking a stroll down the Armenian Patriarchate Road. From here you can easily find the St. James Cathedral and St. Mark’s Chapel. Despite receiving fewer visitors than other attractions, these two sites are certainly impressive in their own right, and can offer a break from the crowds that flood into the old city during peak tourist seasons.
Whilst in this quarter, walk through the gates of the Austrian Hospice and follow the stairs inside all the way to the top. Established as a meeting place for pilgrims in the mid-1800s by the Austrian Catholic Church, the building itself offers panoramic views of the old city that are difficult to beat. The best times to appreciate this incredible view are late in the afternoon, or at dawn when the city is only just waking up.
Other noteworthy attractions include the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer for its underground excavations and amazing bell tower view, along with the Pool of Bethesda and the beautiful St-Anne’s Church, whose visual splendor never fail to rejuvenate the weary traveler.

The famous souk
By now you’ll probably be ready for some browsing and gift buying — and there’s no better place to satisfy your inner shopaholic than the famous souk (market place) inside the old city. Here you can find everything from clothing, shoes and gold jewelry, to classic trinkets and souvenirs; not to mention an endless supply of pungent spices, nuts and special treats to enchant your sweet tooth. Be sure to bargain at each store for a good price that works for both the seller and your own budget.

Winding down
After a busy session in the crowded souk, it’s important to get some fresh air into those lungs, meaning it’s the perfect time to make the journey up to the Mount of Olives to enjoy a mesmerizing final view of the old city at the end of a big day. The Mount is the oldest continually used cemetery in the world, yet is anything but doom and gloom. It is home to a collection of holy sites including the Church of the Ascension, which dates back to 1910 and offers perhaps the best view of the wider Jerusalem area. To walk from the old city to the top of the Mount, you will need approximately half an hour, a bottle of drinking water, and some good walking shoes.
As you rest for a while atop the Mount of Olives, allow the falling dusk to settle your senses, as you pause to consider the immense beauty, intriguing history and unclear future of this majestic city.
Top eats to curb your hunger
Once you’ve taken some time to rest up in your hotel room following a full day of sightseeing, be sure to step outside again to enjoy the wide range of restaurants and street-side grills on offer. Among the best places to enjoy authentic Palestinian cuisine is ‘Askadina’, with its varied menu (offering both traditional and international options), great atmosphere, cosy fireplace, live music on select days, and professional service. Located just 10 minutes North of the Old City by foot, it’s sure to satisfy your inner-foodie. Other popular options are the ‘Azzahara hotel’ restaurant and ‘Pasha’s’ restaurant, famous for their quality, traditional food at reasonable prices.
On the other hand, if you’re feeling in the mood for something more casual, head straight to the sellers surrounding the Damascus Gate of the Old City, who offer an endless supply of delicious grilled meats, vegetables, and falafel sandwiches that will keep you feeling full for days. Not only will this leave your wallet in good shape, it will also give you the opportunity to sit on the grand steps outside the gate and watch the city go by. If you’re lucky, you might even be able to find a vendor who will deliver a shisha pipe to your feet for you to end your whirlwind tour of Jerusalem with.
Afterwards, cleanse your palate with a fresh dessert from one of the many sweet shops that will catch your eye as you walk back to your hotel room for the evening. Each store teases the palate with their own twist on delicious delicacies such as kanafeh, baklava, hareeseh and malabi; some of the tastiest calories you will ever consume.

Jerusalem and beyond
Once your excitement for traveling in Palestine has been ignited in Jerusalem city itself, be sure to make the journey over the separation wall to visit the vibrant and fascinating towns and cities of the West Bank, which offer lush Arab history, unique culture, hospitable locals and a sense of astounding resilience to all who dare to visit.
Stay tuned for more on these steadfast cities in Part 2 of this West Bank, Palestine series.

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Review: A visit to AlUla’s ancient kingdom ‘Wadi Al-Naam’

Photo by Sulafa Alkhunaizi
Updated 26 November 2024
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Review: A visit to AlUla’s ancient kingdom ‘Wadi Al-Naam’

  • Exploration was organized in groups of three riding in desert buggies to reach the hiking location

The Quest for the Ancient Kingdoms is a thrilling treasure hunt and adventure experience in AlUla’s Wadi Al-Naam, also known as the Valley of the Ostriches.

Before the journey begins, participants are provided with helmets, gloves, and hiking sticks, and are treated to a short lesson about the valley by the tour guide.

During our visit, the guide did a wonderful job making the group feel comfortable and translating the lesson from Arabic to English.

Exploration was organized in groups of three riding in desert buggies to reach the hiking location.

The buggy ride is a great chance to enjoy the iconic orange-hued rocks and mountains of AlUla.

At the first stop, participants can get a closer look at the fine details of inscriptions that tell the story of the Dadanites, the ancient residents of AlUla.

The 500-meter-long hike features various obstacles, like climbing up walls and steep steps, while offering breathtaking views of the unforgettable AlUla terrain.

Participants can choose between the Challenge Edition for adult adventurers or the Family Explorers version for a lighter experience. The treasure hunts are ideal for family or friend groups who want to get active during their trip to AlUla.

The quest concludes with a certificate of completion, refreshments, and a chance to interact with camels.

The best part of the experience is connecting with new individuals and putting your heads together to problem-solve as a team to win the quest.

Before going on this journey, please ensure you apply sunscreen, wear comfortable shoes, and stay hydrated as it will involve physical strength and energy to enjoy.

The Wadi Al-Naam Discovery tour costs SR200 ($53) per person and will be open until Feb. 27.

For more details, visit experiencealula.com.

 


UK, Omani princes launch journey across historic Arabian route

Updated 26 November 2024
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UK, Omani princes launch journey across historic Arabian route

  • Camel trek first taken by British diplomat Bertram Thomas in 1928 to be retrodden by team of six travellers
  • Prince of Wales, crown prince of Oman sponsoring historic coastal journey

LONDON: A group of explorers, backed by royalty, is set to undertake a historic journey, retracing a route across the coast of Oman first trodden by a British diplomat almost a century ago.

The Jewel of Arabia expedition, supported by William, Prince of Wales and Omani Crown Prince Theyazin bin Haitham, will feature six travelers, led by Mark Evans, following in the footsteps of Bertram Thomas, who first made the journey over 42 days in 1928.

Thomas made the trek to document the area and local wildlife, and was congratulated on his achievement by King George V.

The new journey, featuring camels but also modern off-road vehicles, will “raise awareness among young people both in and outside of Oman of the value of Oman’s natural heritage and biodiversity as well as the environmental challenges the country and the wider world face,” The Telegraph reported.

It will also feature podcasts and radio interviews with local stations along the way, meetings with local children and an online tracker so people can view its progress in real time.

Prince William told the modern explorers at the Royal Geographical Society on Monday: “I wish I was able to join you, but will be following very closely.”

He added: “The expedition will walk in the footsteps of British explorer Bertram Thomas and take in the wonderful coastline of Oman.

“They will be able to take in the beauty of Oman, and also see the damage done by climate change.”

Prince William added: “The expedition will not only highlight Oman’s biodiversity and natural heritage, but also symbolize the enduring friendship between our two countries.”

The prince added to guests at the Royal Geographic Society that he would “try and make something happen” regarding a future visit to Oman, teasing: “We’re in the planning process.”

The trek will see daily starts around 5 a.m. local time, and will aim to cross 25-30 kilometers per day. The travelers will sleep under the night sky, surviving in the desert without tents.

Evans, 63, said: “The stars of the show will undoubtedly be the camels.”

He joked that the animals are now in a “camel boot camp” in Oman to prepare for the arduous trek.

Alongside Evans will be Nigel Harling, Ana-Maria Pavalache, Dhirka Al-Mawali, Ibrahim Al-Hasni and Amour Al-Wahibi, all of whom are experienced explorers.

Thomas’ original expedition came at a time when the region was considered one of the world’s most inhospitable, known as Rub Al-Khali, or the “empty quarter.”

He worked for the sultan of Oman, and became the first Westerner to make the journey along the coast, spending much of his spare time exploring the country, navigating harsh terrain and warring local tribes.

Upon completion, he received a congratulatory telegram from George V, and used the experience as the basis for a book, “Arabia Felix,” which contains a foreword by T.E. Lawrence.

Meanwhile, 2025 will also mark 225 years since the signing of a friendship treaty between Britain and Oman.


Al-Baha farms offer an escape from busy lives

The farms are committed to sustainability and use eco-friendly practices to protect the environment. (SPA)
Updated 19 November 2024
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Al-Baha farms offer an escape from busy lives

  • There are activities such as cycling and hiking and some farms offer overnight accommodation

AL-BAHA: People seeking a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of their daily lives are flocking to tourist farms in Al-Baha region.

The centers offer a unique blend of natural beauty, agricultural experiences and recreational activities, where visitors can spend their time picking fruit, helping with crop harvesting or learning about organic farming techniques.

The farms are committed to sustainability and use eco-friendly practices to protect the environment. (SPA)

There are also activities such as cycling and hiking and some farms offer overnight accommodation, enabling guests to experience the beauty of the starry night skies.

The farms are committed to sustainability and use eco-friendly practices to protect the environment.

Fahd Al-Zahrani, director of the Ministry of Environment, Water and Agriculture branch in Al-Baha, said agritourism was becoming increasingly important in the region as it created jobs, boosted the local economy and helped diversify the tourism sector.

 


Virtual, AI-powered Saudi travel companion impresses visitors at travel exhibition in London

SARA was on show in the Visit Saudi pavilion at the World Travel Market, which began on Monday and concluded on Wednesday. (SPA)
Updated 09 November 2024
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Virtual, AI-powered Saudi travel companion impresses visitors at travel exhibition in London

  • The new app, called SARA, offers users insights and advice about the Kingdom’s tourist attractions in a natural and seamless conversational style

RIYADH: The Saudi Tourism Authority unveiled the beta version of SARA, its new travel companion app for visitors to the Kingdom, at the World Travel Market exhibition in London this week.

It allows users to interact with a digital female guide, powered by AI, who is deeply knowledgeable about Saudi Arabia and offers insights and advice about the country’s tourist destinations, historical landmarks, archaeological sites, cultural diversity, international events, and anything else a visitor might be interested in.

SARA was on show in the Visit Saudi pavilion at the World Travel Market, which began on Monday and concluded on Wednesday. Officials said she interacted directly with attendees, who were captivated by her engaging stories about the Kingdom’s tourist attractions and experiences, and the extensive information she was able to provide.

The app reflects the nation’s progressive approach to smart tourism, they added, and leverages the latest developments in AI so that it can respond to questions, understand visitor needs, and offer personalized information and suggestions in a natural and seamless conversational style.

 


Off the beaten track in Sri Lanka 

Updated 08 November 2024
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Off the beaten track in Sri Lanka 

  • New visa rules have made it easier than ever for Gulf tourists to visit the island nation 

TORONTO: Sri Lanka has long been a favored destination for visitors from the Gulf. Easy access, budget-friendly offerings, and diverse experiences – from cultural and historic landmarks to idyllic beach resorts and scenic treks – make it an ideal getaway destination. And now, there’s one more reason for Saudis to take a trip to the island nation. Last month, the Sri Lankan government announced that residents of Saudi Arabia, the UAE, Qatar, Oman, and 31 other countries can now visit without a visa.  

The capital, Colombo, is probably the most popular destination in Sri Lanka, along with Kandy and Ella, but the less-frequented areas in the central and southern regions of the country are well worth considering.  

The Summerville Bungalow in Hatton. (Supplied)

My Sri Lanka trip started in Hatton, in the Nuwara Eliya region. Often called “Little England,” the region is a reminder of the country’s former colonial rule, with Tudor-style architecture and sprawling tea estates named after their former British proprietors.  

The central province is home to Sri Lanka’s renowned tea highlands. Tea is an integral part of the island’s history and culture — as its former name, Ceylon, suggests. 

My encounter with Ceylon tea starts at the Dunkeld Tea Factory, owned by The Dilmah Group, a family-run business that has become a global name. The tea is single-origin — meaning it is picked, cultivated, and packed from the lush, rolling terraces of the region. The tour takes guests through the history of Ceylon tea, which actually began with coffee plantations in the 18th century. But leaf disease devastated those plantations, leading to the demise of the short-lived coffee industry in Sri Lanka. In 1867, James Taylor, a Scottish man, planted the first tea clearing in Kandy. By the late 19th century, the country had become one of the largest tea producers in the world. Guests are also invited to a tea-tasting experience, including the Orange Pekoe, the robust tea blend that is a specialty of the region. 

The terraces of a tea plantation around the Ceylon Tea Trail. (Supplied)

I stayed at Summerville, one of the five palatial bungalows once home to English plantation owners which have now been refurbished into boutique properties by the Ceylon Tea Trails Hotel under the Resplendent Ceylon Group. Perched at nearly 4,000 feet and set across 2,000 hectares, the bungalows are perfect for those seeking a slow, luxurious vacation. Guests can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the emerald hilltops from various vantage points or unwind in the several tranquil lounge spaces scattered throughout the bungalows. Or — with a private chef and butler on hand — choose to indulge in a five-course dinner that features the likes of a Yatawatte tea-infused roasted chicken or the Earl Gray fondant. 

The tea trails, ranging from four to 15 kilometers long, connect the various bungalows, offering scenic hikes through the valleys. For those seeking adventure, the newly-inaugurated Pekoe Trail (a 300-km route with 22 phases) allows tourists to explore the rich biodiversity of the area. This trail can be experienced on foot or by rail. 

The Wild Coast Tented Lodge in Sri Lanka. (Supplied)

The next leg of my trip was drastically different. As we were making our way down from the central region to Sri Lanka’s southern tip, the hilltops, winding roads, and cool weather gave way to palm trees, speedy tuk-tuks, and tropical weather. 

In the Hambantota district, the biggest draw is undoubtedly Yala National Park, the second largest national park of the country, and the one with the highest density of leopards. An early morning or afternoon game drive provides ample opportunities to spot wildlife, including the elusive leopard, sloth bears, and elephants.  

After the adrenaline rush of a wildlife safari, I head to our ‘glamping’ lodge — the Wild Coast Tented Lodge, another one of Resplendent Ceylon’s properties. The luxury camp is unfenced and wildlife will often wander into the premises from the park, giving guests a sometimes-gleeful, sometimes-terrifying experience.  

The lodge itself is an architectural delight, focusing on sustainable design and the use of organic materials, including bamboo. It includes 28 “cocoons” or pods scattered throughout the jungle wilderness. The interiors feature rustic touches like cooper hardware, a leopard-claw bathtub, and vintage leather furniture. 

It’s also here that the jungle meets the Indian Ocean. As I wandered along the rugged coastline or enjoyed a sundowner, I was once again reminded of the serenity that Sri Lanka has to offer.