Henna has been culturally used by men and women for over 6,000 years to dye hair, nails and skin.
In ancient Egypt, Cleopatra and Nefertiti were known to have used it to color their hair and as decorative body art patterns. It was also commonly used for many centuries in India, the Middle East and Africa. Commercially packaged henna, intended for use as a cosmetic hair dye, is now available in many countries.
Henna is very much permanent, it does not wash out although it will gradually fade over time. “Many people prefer henna hair dye over chemical hair dye because of this, and because the dye works like a varnish over natural hair color rather than chemically changing the color inside the hair shaft, emerging roots are far subtler than chemical dyes,” said henna specialist Sanaa Naushad at Jamalok beauty salon in Abu Dhabi.
The henna dye or color is obtained from the leaves of a plant, which are dried, milled and sifted. A mildly acidic liquid like lemon juice, or strong tea needs to be added to activate the Lawsonia.
Natural hair contains two to three layers, but this depends on the genes of each individual. “The outer layer is the protective layer and it is called the cuticle and is composed of flat cells, which join like the layers on the top,” said dermatologist Dr. Sarah Abdulwahhab. “The cuticle protects a layer called the cortex in which the hair color is formed. Some people also have a layer in the center called the Medulla, however not much is known about this layer or its purpose.”
Chemical colors access the cuticle and enter the core of the hair to change its color. “This can cause the layer of protective cells on the cuticle to become dis-jointed, making it difficult for sebum to tour down and hydrate the ends of your hair,” said Abdulwahhab. “On the other hand, henna works on the cuticle and acts like a varnish and a further protective layer. Many hairdressers worry about henna because commercial options often contain metallic salts or chemical dyes, but pure henna is a nourishing treatment for the hair.”
There are many benefits of using henna for healthy hair but it might take a long time to see the results, and this drives many people to opt for chemical products for quicker results. “This creates a great dilemma for people because even though chemical hair dye is great for coloring, there is a possibility of skin problems, irritation and itching,” said Naushad. “Henna is not only used for hair coloring, it is also used to help prevent dandruff, scalp itching and acts as a great conditioner to hydrate the hair and helps it grow fast,” she added.
Henna coats the strings of hair with the Lawsonia, which is known to bond to protein, it makes the cuticles lie down flat and can result in smoother, shinier hair with less tangling. Once henna is applied to the hair, it will bind itself with the keratin that already exists in the hair and will coat the cuticle of the hair. “Every time we apply henna to our hair, another layer of color is added to the hair strands, which is what will result in the change of color or covering of grey hair that may be desired,” said Dr. Abdulwahhab. “Once the natural hair breaks the scalp, it is dead and it does not have any cell renewal activity which makes henna stay on the hair longer and never fade.”
Henna fades away when used for body art decorating, which gives rise to the misconception that the same would happen when it is used for dying or coloring hair. “There is no way to remove the color off the hair, you will either need to grow it or cut it. Some people apply dye over the hair but this is totally not recommended because both products — natural and chemical — are very strong,” said Dr. Abdulwahhab.
Natural henna gives rich red brown stains. In the market there are some retailers selling black henna or neutral henna, which is not considered henna. It is usually made from a mix of herbs and plants. “Neutral henna does not change the hair color, this shows that it is not henna at all, it is a powder from a plant known as Senna Italica also known as Cassia Obovata or a closely related Cassia species and is used for its medicinal properties without the coloring effect,” said Naushad. “Black henna powder colors the hair black and can stain the skin very quickly; it can cause severe allergic reactions and permanent scarring. This is why you should ensure to get your black henna from a reputable, trustworthy retailer,” she added.
Henna application can get too messy; it is easier when there is someone to help. It is better if you lay some plastic wraps or newspapers on the floor and tables before you start.
1) Mix the henna powder with hot water or green tea in a glass mixing bowl until the mixture resembles melted chocolate.
2) Apply a protective balm around the hairline (or beard-line) to ensure your skin is not tinted and wear some gloves.
3) You will be applying the henna to dry hair in order to allow the lovely color to saturate each strand, so give it a good brush, and, if needed, divide it into sections.
4) Apply the henna evenly to each section, working back to front, and starting with the roots before smoothing the color through to the ends. You may want to use a (new) paintbrush to apply.
5) Leave your henna on for around three hours for a rich color. And remember that cooler air will create darker tones, while wrapping your hair in a plastic wrap or a shower cap to keep the henna warm will encourage a red finish.
6) Rinse off your henna with shampoo. Enjoy your results and remember that your color will continue to develop over the next few days.
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Haircare with henna
Haircare with henna
Inside Elie Saab’s fashion empire ahead of his Riyadh showcase
- Ahead of his show in Riyadh this week, Arab News looks back at the acclaimed Lebanese designer’s career
DUBAI: Reinvention is a term the fashion world is very familiar with: Heads of houses come and go, archival signatures are foraged and flipped, collections strategically expanded or cut according to social media impressions or sales success. For most brands there’s a continuous necessity to pivot. Not Elie Saab. The Lebanese designer has cleverly curated an empire with slow, measured precision, bolstered by an absolute belief in the art of craftsmanship.
“The code of my collections will always remain the same,” the glamour-focused Saab has often stated, referring to his luxury pairing of Western silhouettes with a Middle Eastern flair for ornamentation and embellishment. Rather than reinvent the wheel, he fine-tunes, dreaming up multi-generational investment pieces that are studied, worked and tweaked to perfection — an approach that has garnered him a loyal following and an impressive 45-year legacy.
To mark this anniversary (and simultaneously show some love to his longtime Saudi supporters), Saab is joining forces with Riyadh Season to host what promises to be an immersive one-of-a-kind fashion spectacle in the Saudi capital on Nov. 13. Titled “1001 Seasons of Elie Saab” — a nod to the famed “One Thousand and One Nights” collection of Arabic folktales — the event will forgo a standard runway presentation in favor of a theatrically orchestrated tableau of models, live music and 300 fresh looks for Fall 2025.
“We will be preparing something unprecedented and new to mark this important occasion,” Saab said during a press conference in London earlier this year, “and celebrate the city of Riyadh as it continues to support creativity and the diversity of culture in the region.”
Whether by way of the soundtrack, set design or the clothing itself (which will be styled by former French Vogue editor, Carine Roitfeld), a nod to his hosts’ aesthetic sensibilities seems inevitable. After all, his relationship with the Kingdom is an important one, cemented last year with the opening of a spacious flagship store in VIA Riyadh that carries his most recent ready-to-wear and bridal collections, childrenswear, accessories and fragrances, in addition to a private haute couture salon. The space itself — all white walls, marble floors and plush carpets — was designed and furnished by another of his exploits, Elie Saab Maison.
Such a broad portfolio might be the norm for fashion’s biggest conglomerates with major financial backing, the likes of LVMH or Kering, say, but in Saab’s case, as an independent designer, it’s especially impressive given where he started from. Born and raised in Damour, a coastal suburb of Beirut, he was barely 10 years old when he began teaching himself how to sew. Apart from a single year spent at a fashion school in Paris, his education was shaped by instinct, imagination and circumstance. Long before the rest of the fashion world woke up to their environmental misdemeanours, Saab was dressing his sister in scraps of fabrics from their mother’s closet. Sustainable design was simply a necessity.
In 1982, aged 18, he opened his own studio in war-torn Beirut — an act of loyalty to the city he refers to as his “Queen” — and navigated his way through a civil war that had been raging in Lebanon since 1975, displacing almost a million people including members of Saab’s own family. His commitment to his heritage, to the Lebanese people, their resilience, optimism and creativity, is unshakeable. Following the Beirut Port blast on Aug. 4, 2020, which caused 218 deaths, thousands of injuries and US$15 billion in property damage, Saab responded with a tribute collection titled “Beyrouth, Source Eternelle.”
“I want people to talk about Beirut in a positive way,” he told Arab News in March 2021, “and remember that (the city) is not all those bad things they are seeing.”
Saab’s determination to make the best of a truly bad situation is a common trait in his country where, despite it all, creativity is flourishing. Beirut remains the region’s home of couture, spawning a design collective that includes Zuhair Murad, Georges Hobeika, Georges Chakra and Rabih Kayrouz, plus an ever-expanding roster of rising talent: Racil, Roni Helou, Hussein Bazaza, Cynthia Merhej, and Sandra Mansour, who trained under Saab and recognises his influence within her choice of diaphanous fabrics and delicate embroidery.
“The biggest lesson I learned (from working with Saab) is the importance of staying true to your vision,” says Mansour. “He has always had a deep understanding of what women want to feel when they wear a dress — powerful, elegant, and confident — and his attention to detail and craftsmanship is unmatched…that’s what makes it timeless.”
Halle Berry brought Saab to the attention of Hollywood when she accepted her 2002 Academy Award in a standout sheer embroidered gown with a crimson taffeta skirt of his design. Since then, he has found himself dressing everyone from Middle Eastern royalty (Queen Rania of Jordan famously wore one of his gowns for her coronation ceremony in 1999) to Julia Roberts and Beyoncé.
“It is true that I know all of them and that we are friends — the person matters to me and how the relationship started and goes on,” Saab told Arab News in March 2021. “When you deal with Meryl Streep, (for example), even with all her glory and despite all the awards she has won, you feel how simple she is. I like people who are modest.”
“Fast-fashion,” “trend-led” and “disposable” are not part of Saab’s vocabulary and despite an increasingly digitally focused market, he remains one of few designers able to prioritize perfectionism and the personal touch. A year after his Oscars moment, he became the first Arab designer to be admitted to the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, where he continues to present his most creatively elaborate work. For now, though, fashion’s spotlight and the female gaze is set firmly on Saab’s return to Riyadh and a hotly anticipated front row.
Gigi, Bella Hadid make a stylish splash in Seoul and Dubai for fashion and jewelry launches
DUBAI: US Dutch Palestinian model Gigi Hadid spent time in Seoul this week to launch her fashion brand Guest in Residence at a pop-up event in the city, while her sister Bella Hadid was in Dubai for the opening of Chopard’s new boutique in Dubai Mall.
For the event, Gigi wore a piece from her own collection—a chic brown cashmere coat called the Grizzly Coat—styled with straight-leg jeans, black loafers and a gold necklace. She wore her blonde hair in a sleek bob, complemented by winged eyeliner and a mauve lip.
The supermodel also shared glimpses of her time in Seoul on Instagram. She hosted a dinner for her guests, which included notable names from the music and fashion world, such as CL, leader of the K-pop girl group 2NE1.
CL posted a clip with Hadid on her Instagram welcoming her to Seoul and shared a look at the dinner’s star-studded guest list. Attendees included NewJeans members Hanni, Danielle, and Minji, “Squid Game” star Jung Ho-yeon and Korean American rapper Jay Park.
The Guest in Residence pop-up is located in Seoul’s trendy Gangnam district and will run through Nov. 24.
Meanwhile, Bella surprised fans in Dubai on Tuesday with a visit to Dubai Mall. She joined Chopard’s creative director Caroline Scheufele for the ribbon-cutting ceremony before entering the boutique to meet with industry insiders and clients.
Later, she made a glamorous appearance at an after-party held at Jaipur Rugs in Alserkal Avenue. Wearing a flowing gold gown from Elie Saab’s Fall/ Winter 2004 Haute Couture collection, she smiled and waved to fans while mingling with guests and clients at the event.
Among the event's attendees was US Iraqi beauty mogul Huda Kattan, who posed for a photo with Bella and Scheufele.
Bella was named the new face and global ambassador for the luxury Swiss jewelry house in September.
Hadid first showed off Chopard creations at the 2021 Cannes Film Festival and has been spotted wearing jewelry by the maison on various red carpets as of late, including multiple sightings at the 2024 Cannes Film Festival.
Bella has also been making waves in the beauty industry with her own fragrance brand, Orabella, which launched in May.
Lucy Liu shines in Zuhair Murad on Berlin red carpet
DUBAI: Actress Lucy Liu cut a striking figure at the Berlin premiere of her film “Red One,” wearing a head-turning gown by Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad.
Liu dazzled in a black velvet dress from Murad’s fall/winter couture collection, which featured a crystal-encrusted bodice adorned with looped net detailing.
She completed the look with Tamara Mellon heels and Roxanne Assoulin jewelry. Her hair was styled in a sleek chignon with delicate floral details.
Liu walked the red carpet alongside her fellow cast members, including Dwayne Johnson, Chris Evans, Kiernan Shipka, Bonnie Hunt, Kristofer Hivju, J.K. Simmons, and director Jake Kasdan.
“Red One” is an action-comedy film which sees Santa Claus (Simmons) go missing in mysterious circumstances. Tasked with saving Christmas, the North Pole’s head of security (Johnson) teams up with the world’s most notorious bounty hunter (Evans). Together, they embark on a globe-trotting adventure to locate and rescue Santa.
The film is set to premiere in Saudi Arabia on Nov. 7.
The unveiling of Murad’s fall/winter collection at Paris Fashion Week in June drew notable guests including Avril Lavigne and Ellie Goulding.
The designs emphasize his signature craftsmanship with luxurious fabrics like velvet, silk and lace, with pieces featuring intricate beadwork, sequins and embroidery.
With a color palette of bold blacks, deep reds, and metallic tones, accented by warm shades of bronze and copper, they exude a sense of sophistication and drama.
Silhouettes range from voluminous, sweeping gowns to sleek, form-fitting dresses, incorporating daring cutouts and striking necklines. One highlight on the runway was a shoulder-baring gown in powder red, with sequins on the bodice transforming into cascading feathers on the skirt.
Murad has dressed an impressive roster of A-list celebrities, including Jennifer Lopez, Beyonce, Taylor Swift, Celine Dion, Zendaya and Katy Perry.
Earlier this week, at the premiere of Netflix’s “Time Cut,” US actress and singer Madison Bailey wore a black off-the-shoulder sequined long-sleeved midi dress with cut-out detail from the designer’s ready-to-wear Fall 2024 collection.
Bruna Biancardi, Yara Al-Namlah spotted at Hia Hub closing day in Riyadh
RIYADH: Brazilian model Bruna Biancardi and Saudi influencer Yara Al-Namlah brought the fourth edition of lifestyle conference Hia Hub to a close late on Sunday night in Riyadh.
Biancardi, who is the partner of footballer icon Neymar, made a guest appearance at the event in JAX district and posed for photos with attendees in a fitted dark blue dress.
attendees in a fitted dark blue dress. (AN Photo/Huda Bashatah)
Diving into the world of wellness, Al-Namlah, an influencer and the founder of Saudi skincare brand Treat, engaged in a discussion titled “Generational Beauty: Inheriting Skincare Wisdom.”
The entrepreneur took to the stage with her mother, Amani Al-Ayed, and during the talk the mother-daughter duo engaged in a heartfelt discussion about the importance of self-love and self-care.
"You must love yourself in all the ways. Perfection is being with your own flaws. If you get a pimple, don't feel that it is the worst thing in the world, It is completely okay. Just take care of how you treat your skin by removing your makeup, sleeping with clean well-prepped skin, and waking up using your routine,” Al-Namlah said.
Al-Ayed highlighted the benefits of a simple skincare routine, saying: “I used to apply many products, that consisted of a lot of steps. What I learned from Yara, especially after Treat, is that she reduced the routine to three products.”
The birth of Treat in June 2023 came years after Al-Namlah’s rise to stardom — she was a makeup artist before becoming an influencer and business owner.
Al-Namlah’s skincare line includes a brightening rice powder cleanser, a product whose development was inspired by her and her mother’s ritual of using rice powder to create a mask.
“The cleanser has natural rice powder, which exfoliates and cleans the skin, and it’s one of the products that was inspired by our routine,” she explained on stage.
The session came after five days of beauty and skincare-related panels, workshops and masterclasses at Hia Hub, with industry leaders discussing the evolving skincare market in the Middle East.
Panellists and speakers at the event included the likes of Patrick Chalhoub, group president of the Chalhoub Group; Franck Marilly, chairman of Shiseido EMEA; Hasmik Panossian, regional general manager of Sephora Middle East; Laurent Duffier, managing director of L’Oreal Middle East; and Henk van der Mark, vice president of retail, commercial and business development at Estee Lauder Companies EMEA.
‘I always compete with myself’: Yasmine Sabri shares insights at Hia Hub in Riyadh
RIYADH: In a session at lifestyle conference Hia Hub, Egyptian actress Yasmine Sabri opened up about her life beyond the glitz and glamour of her career. Known for her on screen talent, Sabri took the opportunity to share lesser-known insights about her personal journey, her inspirations, and her views on self-improvement.
Hia Hub is taking place in Riyadh’s JAX district and featured discussions, masterclasses, workshops, interactive exhibitions and live performances. The event wraps up on Nov. 3.
During her talk, Sabri, who has a series of blockbuster Arabic films under her belt and is also a global brand ambassador for French label Cartier, expressed her admiration for Saudi women.
“They embody a spirit of determination that inspires me,” the 36-year-old remarked, before reflecting on her formative years.
Sabri recounted her dedication to swimming, a passion she pursued until the age of 18. “Swimming taught me discipline,” she said. “I used to swim before school and after at night, and we didn’t have the option to say, ‘I don’t want to.’” This commitment not only shaped her physical abilities but also instilled a strong work ethic that she carries into her acting career, she said.
Mental fortitude also emerged as a key topic during the discussion. Sabri emphasized the importance of competing with oneself, stating, “I’m grateful and I always compete with myself on a daily basis. One should always stay hungry and be competitive with oneself.”
The actress kicked off her career in 2013 and went on to star in such films as “Abo Nasab” and “El Diesel.”
Often spotted on the Cannes Film Festival red carpet, as well as at film festivals across the Middle East, the actress is known for her style and her makeup. The actress told the crowd at Hia Hub she is preparing to segway into entrepreneurship with the launch of her own beauty brand, Pose Beauty.
Although details about the brand are being kept under wraps, Sabri would join the likes of Lebanese actress Nadine Nassib Njeim who launched her eponymous beauty brand in May.
