Women in Saudi Arabia are making waves in the fashion world in striking ways. They are relying on their indigenous dressing style and adapting it to the modern outlook.
For one Riyadh-based fashion designer Arwa Al-Ammari, founder of ArAm, it’s not only an art but also a way to express her views without stinting. In fact, she is a woman of many talents which showcases her sparkling potential. She has been in love with arts in its many forms since her childhood. “I play music, paint and sculpt too. I learned to take professional photos and also participated in several school theater plays. In the middle of it all, I stumbled upon a whole new magical form of art — fashion design to make my mark in,” she says.
From then on, there was no looking back for Al-Ammari. She kept moving ultimately designing her own outfits which, all of a sudden, captured the eyes of people around her who later showed interest in buying her creations and the circle began to grow as a result. “At that point it occurred to me that I must refine my talent and passion by enrolling at a prestigious fashion academy,” she says.
Though Al-Ammari studied public policy, planning and financing and holds a Master degree from London School of Economics and Political Science in addition to an MBA from University of Leicester, UK, she changed her direction and delved into exploring the artistic genes that she inherited from her parents who are quite passionate about art. More or less, Al-Ammari started bonding with art at an early stage thanks to her parents. “Every summer they used to sign me up for art courses abroad. I took courses in different schools in the US and UK and got to learn about oil painting, sculpting, sketching, photography and so on,” she says.
As fashion was engulfing her heart and soul and to make her foothold in the fashion industry, she joined a French fashion school “ESMOD” where she studied fashion design. “The courses that I did earlier along with my passion for arts also helped in the development of my artistic vision and taste,” explains Al-Ammari.
Since the launch of her brand ArAm two years ago, it has become an influential name on the Saudi fashion circuit in a big way. Describing what makes her designs stand out, she said, “My brand is characteristic of four elements that give it a huge advantage. The designs are feminine, classy, contemporary and memorable. With this philosophy, I’m trying to portray femininity in a contemporary and classy form through exotic cuts and color combinations that are catchy and memorable,” she says.
The other thing Al-Ammari’s dresses are famous for is that their roots are deeply etched in her heritage. “Being a Saudi designer who comes from the heart of this region and having lived in Dubai gives me an advantage in terms of being able to understand the norms, culture, heritage and social fabric of the people in the region,” explains Al-Ammari.
Being highly exposed to the global village as an avid traveler who visited more than 25 different countries in 4 continents and living abroad enabled her to appreciate other societies, legacies, backgrounds, civilizations, and their arts and history. “This is what I’m trying to reveal in ArAm’s designs,” she says.
Talking about her latest collection and how it came about, she replied, “The latest collection of mine titled “The Ottoman Treasures” is inspired by the fascinating Islamic art of the Ottoman era; the majestic architecture of the Ottoman buildings, the breathtaking details of ceramics and sophisticated netting and carpeting. The collection was structured to create pieces that embrace the artistic patterns and art elements of that period in a contemporary style.”
She knows the type of women who will fall in love with the dresses after seeing her collections. “Women whose only priority is to look elegant and turn heads while moving in a crowd are my prospective clients. I’m always flattered to hear my clients’ feedback. When they wear my designs, they feel absolutely feminine and get compliments even from those who don’t know them yet admire their looks,” she says.
Each individual on the planet takes delight in things that inspire them endlessly. So Al-Ammari is no exception with a great taste. “My greatest sources of inspiration are travel, architectural and historical landmarks, and art pieces,” she says. “I get moved by paintings and sculptures. I absorb the natural sceneries; assimilate the color combinations and preferences of different societies along with other cultural aspects such as music and heritage that one often comes across in my designs.”
When it comes to fabrics and colors, Al-Ammari makes sure they really go with the theme of her collection. As she puts it this way, “Personally I like strong colors that have a statement. With regard to my designs I prefer to work with colors that serve the topic I’m discussing. For example: In the Ottoman Treasures, the color theme is rich and strong reflecting the nature of this era of powerful rulers and Sultans. Colors of the orient included the royal blue and green, deep red, aqua and turquoise.”
She would love to see her designed pieces worn by a variety of fashion icons who match her fashion dreams in every way. To start with, the first name that comes up on top is Sheikha Moza followed by Carla Bruni, Michelle Obama, Sarah Jessica Parker and Lupita Nyongo. “To me these wonderful ladies match my view of being fashionable in terms of femininity and elegance,” she says.
People in the Gulf and the Middle East have a high regard for fashion. They just can’t live without it. They love to dress up and follow the latest international trends. Besides, many of them are shopping at smaller boutiques hunting for pieces that aren’t accessible to all. “They are craving for new styles but at the same time have the willingness to pay more to dress fashionably and uniquely,” says Ammari. “This is where the Ottoman Treasures collection comes in.”
As the brand takes the Middle East by storm, she is considering about introducing other items like leather goods but shoes in particular. She wants ArAm to be seen as an international brand. “This is what I’m planning to reach over the coming years.”
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Arwa Al-Ammari makes waves in Saudi fashion scene
Arwa Al-Ammari makes waves in Saudi fashion scene
Inside Elie Saab’s fashion empire ahead of his Riyadh showcase
- Ahead of his show in Riyadh this week, Arab News looks back at the acclaimed Lebanese designer’s career
DUBAI: Reinvention is a term the fashion world is very familiar with: Heads of houses come and go, archival signatures are foraged and flipped, collections strategically expanded or cut according to social media impressions or sales success. For most brands there’s a continuous necessity to pivot. Not Elie Saab. The Lebanese designer has cleverly curated an empire with slow, measured precision, bolstered by an absolute belief in the art of craftsmanship.
“The code of my collections will always remain the same,” the glamour-focused Saab has often stated, referring to his luxury pairing of Western silhouettes with a Middle Eastern flair for ornamentation and embellishment. Rather than reinvent the wheel, he fine-tunes, dreaming up multi-generational investment pieces that are studied, worked and tweaked to perfection — an approach that has garnered him a loyal following and an impressive 45-year legacy.
To mark this anniversary (and simultaneously show some love to his longtime Saudi supporters), Saab is joining forces with Riyadh Season to host what promises to be an immersive one-of-a-kind fashion spectacle in the Saudi capital on Nov. 13. Titled “1001 Seasons of Elie Saab” — a nod to the famed “One Thousand and One Nights” collection of Arabic folktales — the event will forgo a standard runway presentation in favor of a theatrically orchestrated tableau of models, live music and 300 fresh looks for Fall 2025.
“We will be preparing something unprecedented and new to mark this important occasion,” Saab said during a press conference in London earlier this year, “and celebrate the city of Riyadh as it continues to support creativity and the diversity of culture in the region.”
Whether by way of the soundtrack, set design or the clothing itself (which will be styled by former French Vogue editor, Carine Roitfeld), a nod to his hosts’ aesthetic sensibilities seems inevitable. After all, his relationship with the Kingdom is an important one, cemented last year with the opening of a spacious flagship store in VIA Riyadh that carries his most recent ready-to-wear and bridal collections, childrenswear, accessories and fragrances, in addition to a private haute couture salon. The space itself — all white walls, marble floors and plush carpets — was designed and furnished by another of his exploits, Elie Saab Maison.
Such a broad portfolio might be the norm for fashion’s biggest conglomerates with major financial backing, the likes of LVMH or Kering, say, but in Saab’s case, as an independent designer, it’s especially impressive given where he started from. Born and raised in Damour, a coastal suburb of Beirut, he was barely 10 years old when he began teaching himself how to sew. Apart from a single year spent at a fashion school in Paris, his education was shaped by instinct, imagination and circumstance. Long before the rest of the fashion world woke up to their environmental misdemeanours, Saab was dressing his sister in scraps of fabrics from their mother’s closet. Sustainable design was simply a necessity.
In 1982, aged 18, he opened his own studio in war-torn Beirut — an act of loyalty to the city he refers to as his “Queen” — and navigated his way through a civil war that had been raging in Lebanon since 1975, displacing almost a million people including members of Saab’s own family. His commitment to his heritage, to the Lebanese people, their resilience, optimism and creativity, is unshakeable. Following the Beirut Port blast on Aug. 4, 2020, which caused 218 deaths, thousands of injuries and US$15 billion in property damage, Saab responded with a tribute collection titled “Beyrouth, Source Eternelle.”
“I want people to talk about Beirut in a positive way,” he told Arab News in March 2021, “and remember that (the city) is not all those bad things they are seeing.”
Saab’s determination to make the best of a truly bad situation is a common trait in his country where, despite it all, creativity is flourishing. Beirut remains the region’s home of couture, spawning a design collective that includes Zuhair Murad, Georges Hobeika, Georges Chakra and Rabih Kayrouz, plus an ever-expanding roster of rising talent: Racil, Roni Helou, Hussein Bazaza, Cynthia Merhej, and Sandra Mansour, who trained under Saab and recognises his influence within her choice of diaphanous fabrics and delicate embroidery.
“The biggest lesson I learned (from working with Saab) is the importance of staying true to your vision,” says Mansour. “He has always had a deep understanding of what women want to feel when they wear a dress — powerful, elegant, and confident — and his attention to detail and craftsmanship is unmatched…that’s what makes it timeless.”
Halle Berry brought Saab to the attention of Hollywood when she accepted her 2002 Academy Award in a standout sheer embroidered gown with a crimson taffeta skirt of his design. Since then, he has found himself dressing everyone from Middle Eastern royalty (Queen Rania of Jordan famously wore one of his gowns for her coronation ceremony in 1999) to Julia Roberts and Beyoncé.
“It is true that I know all of them and that we are friends — the person matters to me and how the relationship started and goes on,” Saab told Arab News in March 2021. “When you deal with Meryl Streep, (for example), even with all her glory and despite all the awards she has won, you feel how simple she is. I like people who are modest.”
“Fast-fashion,” “trend-led” and “disposable” are not part of Saab’s vocabulary and despite an increasingly digitally focused market, he remains one of few designers able to prioritize perfectionism and the personal touch. A year after his Oscars moment, he became the first Arab designer to be admitted to the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, where he continues to present his most creatively elaborate work. For now, though, fashion’s spotlight and the female gaze is set firmly on Saab’s return to Riyadh and a hotly anticipated front row.
Gigi, Bella Hadid make a stylish splash in Seoul and Dubai for fashion and jewelry launches
DUBAI: US Dutch Palestinian model Gigi Hadid spent time in Seoul this week to launch her fashion brand Guest in Residence at a pop-up event in the city, while her sister Bella Hadid was in Dubai for the opening of Chopard’s new boutique in Dubai Mall.
For the event, Gigi wore a piece from her own collection—a chic brown cashmere coat called the Grizzly Coat—styled with straight-leg jeans, black loafers and a gold necklace. She wore her blonde hair in a sleek bob, complemented by winged eyeliner and a mauve lip.
The supermodel also shared glimpses of her time in Seoul on Instagram. She hosted a dinner for her guests, which included notable names from the music and fashion world, such as CL, leader of the K-pop girl group 2NE1.
CL posted a clip with Hadid on her Instagram welcoming her to Seoul and shared a look at the dinner’s star-studded guest list. Attendees included NewJeans members Hanni, Danielle, and Minji, “Squid Game” star Jung Ho-yeon and Korean American rapper Jay Park.
The Guest in Residence pop-up is located in Seoul’s trendy Gangnam district and will run through Nov. 24.
Meanwhile, Bella surprised fans in Dubai on Tuesday with a visit to Dubai Mall. She joined Chopard’s creative director Caroline Scheufele for the ribbon-cutting ceremony before entering the boutique to meet with industry insiders and clients.
Later, she made a glamorous appearance at an after-party held at Jaipur Rugs in Alserkal Avenue. Wearing a flowing gold gown from Elie Saab’s Fall/ Winter 2004 Haute Couture collection, she smiled and waved to fans while mingling with guests and clients at the event.
Among the event's attendees was US Iraqi beauty mogul Huda Kattan, who posed for a photo with Bella and Scheufele.
Bella was named the new face and global ambassador for the luxury Swiss jewelry house in September.
Hadid first showed off Chopard creations at the 2021 Cannes Film Festival and has been spotted wearing jewelry by the maison on various red carpets as of late, including multiple sightings at the 2024 Cannes Film Festival.
Bella has also been making waves in the beauty industry with her own fragrance brand, Orabella, which launched in May.
Lucy Liu shines in Zuhair Murad on Berlin red carpet
DUBAI: Actress Lucy Liu cut a striking figure at the Berlin premiere of her film “Red One,” wearing a head-turning gown by Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad.
Liu dazzled in a black velvet dress from Murad’s fall/winter couture collection, which featured a crystal-encrusted bodice adorned with looped net detailing.
She completed the look with Tamara Mellon heels and Roxanne Assoulin jewelry. Her hair was styled in a sleek chignon with delicate floral details.
Liu walked the red carpet alongside her fellow cast members, including Dwayne Johnson, Chris Evans, Kiernan Shipka, Bonnie Hunt, Kristofer Hivju, J.K. Simmons, and director Jake Kasdan.
“Red One” is an action-comedy film which sees Santa Claus (Simmons) go missing in mysterious circumstances. Tasked with saving Christmas, the North Pole’s head of security (Johnson) teams up with the world’s most notorious bounty hunter (Evans). Together, they embark on a globe-trotting adventure to locate and rescue Santa.
The film is set to premiere in Saudi Arabia on Nov. 7.
The unveiling of Murad’s fall/winter collection at Paris Fashion Week in June drew notable guests including Avril Lavigne and Ellie Goulding.
The designs emphasize his signature craftsmanship with luxurious fabrics like velvet, silk and lace, with pieces featuring intricate beadwork, sequins and embroidery.
With a color palette of bold blacks, deep reds, and metallic tones, accented by warm shades of bronze and copper, they exude a sense of sophistication and drama.
Silhouettes range from voluminous, sweeping gowns to sleek, form-fitting dresses, incorporating daring cutouts and striking necklines. One highlight on the runway was a shoulder-baring gown in powder red, with sequins on the bodice transforming into cascading feathers on the skirt.
Murad has dressed an impressive roster of A-list celebrities, including Jennifer Lopez, Beyonce, Taylor Swift, Celine Dion, Zendaya and Katy Perry.
Earlier this week, at the premiere of Netflix’s “Time Cut,” US actress and singer Madison Bailey wore a black off-the-shoulder sequined long-sleeved midi dress with cut-out detail from the designer’s ready-to-wear Fall 2024 collection.
Bruna Biancardi, Yara Al-Namlah spotted at Hia Hub closing day in Riyadh
RIYADH: Brazilian model Bruna Biancardi and Saudi influencer Yara Al-Namlah brought the fourth edition of lifestyle conference Hia Hub to a close late on Sunday night in Riyadh.
Biancardi, who is the partner of footballer icon Neymar, made a guest appearance at the event in JAX district and posed for photos with attendees in a fitted dark blue dress.
attendees in a fitted dark blue dress. (AN Photo/Huda Bashatah)
Diving into the world of wellness, Al-Namlah, an influencer and the founder of Saudi skincare brand Treat, engaged in a discussion titled “Generational Beauty: Inheriting Skincare Wisdom.”
The entrepreneur took to the stage with her mother, Amani Al-Ayed, and during the talk the mother-daughter duo engaged in a heartfelt discussion about the importance of self-love and self-care.
"You must love yourself in all the ways. Perfection is being with your own flaws. If you get a pimple, don't feel that it is the worst thing in the world, It is completely okay. Just take care of how you treat your skin by removing your makeup, sleeping with clean well-prepped skin, and waking up using your routine,” Al-Namlah said.
Al-Ayed highlighted the benefits of a simple skincare routine, saying: “I used to apply many products, that consisted of a lot of steps. What I learned from Yara, especially after Treat, is that she reduced the routine to three products.”
The birth of Treat in June 2023 came years after Al-Namlah’s rise to stardom — she was a makeup artist before becoming an influencer and business owner.
Al-Namlah’s skincare line includes a brightening rice powder cleanser, a product whose development was inspired by her and her mother’s ritual of using rice powder to create a mask.
“The cleanser has natural rice powder, which exfoliates and cleans the skin, and it’s one of the products that was inspired by our routine,” she explained on stage.
The session came after five days of beauty and skincare-related panels, workshops and masterclasses at Hia Hub, with industry leaders discussing the evolving skincare market in the Middle East.
Panellists and speakers at the event included the likes of Patrick Chalhoub, group president of the Chalhoub Group; Franck Marilly, chairman of Shiseido EMEA; Hasmik Panossian, regional general manager of Sephora Middle East; Laurent Duffier, managing director of L’Oreal Middle East; and Henk van der Mark, vice president of retail, commercial and business development at Estee Lauder Companies EMEA.
‘I always compete with myself’: Yasmine Sabri shares insights at Hia Hub in Riyadh
RIYADH: In a session at lifestyle conference Hia Hub, Egyptian actress Yasmine Sabri opened up about her life beyond the glitz and glamour of her career. Known for her on screen talent, Sabri took the opportunity to share lesser-known insights about her personal journey, her inspirations, and her views on self-improvement.
Hia Hub is taking place in Riyadh’s JAX district and featured discussions, masterclasses, workshops, interactive exhibitions and live performances. The event wraps up on Nov. 3.
During her talk, Sabri, who has a series of blockbuster Arabic films under her belt and is also a global brand ambassador for French label Cartier, expressed her admiration for Saudi women.
“They embody a spirit of determination that inspires me,” the 36-year-old remarked, before reflecting on her formative years.
Sabri recounted her dedication to swimming, a passion she pursued until the age of 18. “Swimming taught me discipline,” she said. “I used to swim before school and after at night, and we didn’t have the option to say, ‘I don’t want to.’” This commitment not only shaped her physical abilities but also instilled a strong work ethic that she carries into her acting career, she said.
Mental fortitude also emerged as a key topic during the discussion. Sabri emphasized the importance of competing with oneself, stating, “I’m grateful and I always compete with myself on a daily basis. One should always stay hungry and be competitive with oneself.”
The actress kicked off her career in 2013 and went on to star in such films as “Abo Nasab” and “El Diesel.”
Often spotted on the Cannes Film Festival red carpet, as well as at film festivals across the Middle East, the actress is known for her style and her makeup. The actress told the crowd at Hia Hub she is preparing to segway into entrepreneurship with the launch of her own beauty brand, Pose Beauty.
Although details about the brand are being kept under wraps, Sabri would join the likes of Lebanese actress Nadine Nassib Njeim who launched her eponymous beauty brand in May.
